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Our Travels

For many years, I have written little journals about our travels. I have started this webpage to consolidate those trips so we can refer back and remember the wonderful and sometimes, not so wonderful, experiences. Also, our friends and relatives have suffered through reading my journals, and now they will be able to follow along by reading updates posted here.

Rio de Janeiro to Lisbon March, 2024

Please excuse the typos.

Monday, April 8, 2024 – We did our last walk from Rich Steve’s Portugal book, as tomorrow we head home.

This walk started in the plaza I remembered best from our first trip to Lisbon about 23 years ago. It is a huge plaza on the Tejo River, which is near to where the cruiseships dock. We can actually see a ship a short distance from where we stood along the river. The plaza is called Praça do Comércio and has a huge statue of King José I and Lisbon’s Arch of Triumph.

Praça do Comèrcio – This is the plaza that I remember from my first visit to Lisbon about 23 years ago. Statue of King José I and the Arch of Triumph.


Another view of the Arch:

Lisbon’s Arch of Triumph with Vancouver da Gama on the left and Pombal on the right.


Leaving the plaza, we walked through the Arch to São Julião, a small church which was built to blend into the grid plan of streets after the 1755 earthquake.

Sãn Julião – tiny church


Inside Sãn Julião


We walk to another church, St. Nicholas. It faces a little square, but the entire street side is covered in tiles. The church made extra income by leasing their street facing side to businesses, and you can see the storefronts.

Church of St. Nicholas

The next square we visited was Praça da Figueira which had been the site of a large hospital destroyed in the earthquake. In one corner is the Confeitaria Nacional which has a cafeteria on the second floor, recommended by Rick Steve’s in his book. So, we stopped for lunch!

My Salmon Salad lunch Confeitaria National cafeteria


Dave’s Shrimp Curry from lunch


After lunch, we continued our walk to the Church of São Domingos. This church was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake and was the site of two royal weddings in the 1800’s. It was severely damaged again by a fire in 1959. There’s black soot still on the walls and you can see the damaged walls. The fire totally took the roof which has been replaced.

Church of São Domingos


Inside of church showing damage on walls, but ceiling was replaced


Inside of church showing more damage on walls


Rick Steves writes about “ginjinha” bars which is a favorite Lisbon drink. It is a liquor made from ginja berries (like a sour cherry), sugar and brandy. We pass by the oldest ginjinha bar, a hole in the wall, and Dave and I pop in thinking we would sample this liquor. However, we are watching the server washing the glasses with no soap – basically just rinsing them after the last customer – not very sanitary – and decide to pass….so no ginjinha for us!

The next square is the Rossio Square which is very near to our hotel, and the Rossio Train Station. It has an elongated shape and 2,000 years ago it was a Roman racetrack. There are lots of stores in this area as well as the National Theater and the Sardine Store we saw previously! More of the optical illusion Portugeuse tiles.

Rossio Square


We are planning to go to a restaurant outside our hotel tonight. There are certainly plenty of choices! We checked out a few of the menus and think we found one that looks good 🤞. We have to be in bed early because our taxi to the airport is picking us up at 6:30AM, and with 2 stops, we expect to land in Tampa at 9:00PM. With a 5 hour time difference (9:00PM Tuesday night would be 2:00AM Wednesday in Lisbon), it will be a very long day.

This will be my last post this trip unless something exiting happens!

Saturday and Sunday, April 6-7, 2024:

Saturday – We disembarked the ship on Saturday morning and took a taxi to our hotel, Hotel Avenida Palace, which Dave picked because it is right next to the train station. Of course we could not check in right away, but they did let us check in about noon. They upgraded up to a junior suite (!), but it is an old hotel and while very nice, it is elegant in an old fashioned way. We have a view of a lion from one window.

We have a lion outside our room!

From another window we have a long view of a monument. 

Another window in our room with a clearer view…


Our hotel from the outside – the lion outside our room straight up from the “L” in Palace


Inside our hotel – room next to bar where we had dinner Saturday evening

We did one of Rick Steve’s shorter walks from his book on Portugal, which let us wander around Lisbon a bit. We started out and did not realize we were suppose to take this trolley uphill…so we walked☹️.

Elevador da Glória – that we did not take up the hill 😢


We visited a park , Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, with nice views over Lisbon, but it was so packed with people that we could not get a good picture.

Next, we visited a church, São Roque.

Sãn Roque Church – side chapel


Sãn Roque Church – John the Baptist Chapel – made at the Vatican in Rome and after one papal mass it was disassembled and shipped to Lisbon


Another chapel in Sãn Roque church

Outside the church was a statue of a lottery ticket salesman. Supposedly rubbing the ticket in his hand is good luck.

Dave is rubbing the ticket for good luck

The walk took us past several old eating establishments.

Café A Brasileira is a 100 year old institution with Art Nouveau decor


Templar tile in Cervejaria da Trindade, the oldest beer hall in Lisbon


Other sights along our walk…

The sign says this convent was opened in 1325


Building covered in tile!


Police officers guarding the headquarters of the National Guard


Elevador de Santa Justa designed by an architect that studied under Gustav Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame


Convento do Carmo ruins destroyed by 1755 earthquake

My guide on Friday said Santino’s gelato is the best, so when we passed a shop, we had to try some. It was very good. While sitting on a bench eating our gelato, we noticed a shop with all kinds of colored lights and what looked like circus decorations in the windows. I had to check it out…this shop sold tins of sardines! There were probably a thousand cans on the shelves, and that’s all they sold. You could buy a can with your birth year stamped on it or historical Lisbon sites or cans printed with various other things. I have to admit, to me it was a first to find this store in the middle of a bunch of upscale shops. Look at the people in this shop!

Sardine shop!

We returned to the hotel and had a light dinner in the hotel bar.

Sunday – Dave is still not 100%, but we wanted to be close to the train station so we could take the train to Sintra. It is about 40 minutes with lots of stops. The train was packed but we did get seats. Because we are fans of the TV show, “The Curse of Oak Island”, we wanted to visit “Quinta da Regaleira”.

On our long, uphill walk to Quinta da Regaleira, we passed this man playing a Portuguese guitar

This is an estate classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s a palace, a chapel, grottoes, and…an “Initiation Well” which is what we wanted to see.

Quinta da Regaleira Palace


One of the fountains at Quinta da Regaleira

The “Initiation Well” was shown on “The Curse of Oak Island” TV show because the construction of the well was supposedly done by the Knights Templar and shares construction similarities to things on Oak Island. We had to walk uphill to get to the well, and then you climb down its circular staircase to a tunnel. Following the tunnel leads to a waterfall, and then back outside.

Initiation Well



Waterfall at end of tunnel leaving the Initiation Well


Chapel



Outside of chapel

This was our big adventure of the Day, and with Dave feeling under the weather, we headed back to Lisbon on the train. 

We are slowing down and tomorrow is our last day in Lisbon and we hope to do some more sightseeing, but rain is in the forecast….

Friday, April 5, 2024 – Today we are in Lisbon, Portugal. My photographer is not touring with me today as he is not feeling his best. 

As we begin our drive on our tour, we see aqueducts! These are from the mid-1700’s to bring fresh water into Lisbon, copying from the Roman aqua ducts.

Aqueduct

Some Portugal tidbits from our guide:

-April 25 is a National Holiday celebrating the end of occupation.

-Just had an election. Government has been pretty much central for many years – Varies a little from central left to central right, but pretty much central. 

-Portugal still has bullfights, but they are not allowed to kill the bull in the ring. The bull is killed, but it is out of public sight. 

-Portugal had a monarchy from 1100 to 1900.


– Portuguese currently get free healthcare, welfare and education thru 12th grade. Private hospitals and education available for $$$.

Our first stop is the Palace of Queluz. The Palace of Queluz is an 18th-century palace located at Queluz, a city of the Sinetra Municipality, in the Lisbon District on the Portugeuse Rivera.  Work on the palace began in 1747. Despite being far smaller, the palace is often referred to as the “Portuguese Versailles.”  The palace was conceived as a summer retreat for King Jose’s I brother, Pedro, later to become husband and King Pedro III due to marrying his own niece, Queen Maria I (Pedro III and José I were brothers, so Pedro I’s daughter – Maria I – was next in line to inherit the throne). It eventually served as a discreet place of incarceration for Maria I, when she became afflicted by severe mental illness in the years following Pedro III’s death in 1786. Queluz Palace became the official residence of the Portuguese Prince João, (son of Pedro III) and his family, and remained so until the royal family fled to the Portuguese colony of Brazil in 1807, following the French invasion of Portugal. João was the second born and was not educated or prepared to be king, but when his older brother died, João became King. João is credited with saving Portugal as he moved the capital of Portugal to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. Then the British saved the day by expelling Napoleon and the French. The royal family came back from Brazil in 1821. 

This is the Music Room:


Music Room

The room is all wood because of acoustics.

Bedroom
Chapel


Men’s room


May be dining room…china went to Brazil and came back when family returned to Portugal

Apparently in the 1700’s, no room was designated as a “dining room”. Meals were eaten wherever the King wanted..outside, in the courtyard, in the bedroom, wherever….

But in later years, this room was assumed to be a dining room.

Official entrance to the palace


Throne room

The ”heir apparent” and his wife had chairs opposite in this same room.


Bedroom


Rowing Facility!

The area between the tiles were flooded so they could row boats in this artificial stream of water .

Gardens


Front view of Palace



More gardens

After the palace we drove to Cascais, which is basically a tourist town on the beach. We had some free time and there were many kiosks set up in the city garden and along the beach because it is still Easter Vacation until Monday. Our guide pronounces the name of the city as: “Cush kais “

Cascais Beach kiosks for Easter vacation


Portugeuse tile looks uneven but actually a flat surface – optical illusion


Fort in Cascais
Beachfront in Cascais

After our free time, we headed back to the ship but drove through the town of Estoril. 

Estoril became famous for spies. The movie Casino Royale was inspired by certain incidents that took place during Ian Fleming’s wartime career at the Naval Intelligence Division (NID). On a trip to Portugal, en route to the United States, Fleming and the NID Director, Admiral Godfrey, went to the Estoril Casino. During the Second World War, the region was a centre of spies and diplomatic secrecy, situations that provided the region with a cosmopolitan atmosphere and sophistication. Fleming’s visit to the Estoril Casino is considered the inspiration for “Casino Royale”.

“On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” was the sixth installment of the James Bond saga and was predominantly filmed in Portugal. The cast resided at the Palácio Estoril Hotel throughout 1968, and the hotel provided a backdrop for the movie.

Casino Estoril!

After a drive by through Estoril we continued back to the ship, only to be stuck in a huge traffic jam ☹️. We got back about 7:30PM and ended up ordering room service for dinner.

Thursday, April 4, 2024 – We are in Cadiz, Spain, but our Google maps say we are in “El Puerto de Santa Maria”, which is from where Christopher Columbus sailed. We have a full day tour in Seville, which is about 1 hour 45 minutes from where we are docked. Our first stop in Seville is at Plaza de España. It was built for an exposition (world’s fair) in 1929. The building is in a semi-circle and is 1/2 mile of tiled fountains, pavilions, walls, ponds, benches, etc. There are 4 bridges in front of the building with water running under the bridges, kind of like a moat. There is a very large open, central area and people are taking horse carriage rides around the open area. As we wandered around, we saw that much of the building now contains government offices. So although it is approaching 100 years old, the building has been put to use.

Plaza de Espana (with duck 😁)

The next stop was the Jewish quarter. As we walked toward the Jewish quarter, we passed a statue to Christopher Columbus.

Garden of Mário, Christopher Columbus

He is still a very revered and popular person in Spain. The Jewish quarter had very narrow walkways and no streets. A long time ago, Seville had the largest Jewish community in Spain. In the 15th century, the Jewish people were forced to leave or convert to Christianity. 

The Alcazar Palace is located in the Jewish quarter, as wealthy Jews lived close to the king. Actually, the sign above the entrance says “Reales Alcazar” because it is composed of many palaces built over many years. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Royal Alcazar was founded in the middle ages, at the beginning of the tenth century. It has Moorish architecture which over the centuries has been added to or modified, but much of the original architecture can still be seen. There are many rooms, patios, gardens, and water fountains, and a sample of what we saw is in the following photos. 

Real Alcazar entry to Hunting Courtyard

In the Hunting Courtyard, they held Equestrian events and even bullfights.

Hunting Court or Square in front of the stables
Opening ceremony of 1929 Exhibition


The Virgin of the Navigators



Hall of Ambassadors (note chandelier)/Throneroom of King Dom Pedro I


Mama duck and 4 babies (babies below) in one of the courtyards

Our next stop was the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea, better known as Seville Cathedral, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the third largest churches in the world as well as the largest Gothic Church. It is not laid out in the traditional Latin Cross design. The style is Gothic, Moorish and Renaissance. The groundbreaking was in 1402, consecrated in 1507, and completed in 1519. According to our guide, there are many chapels owned by wealthy families that have owned them for centuries and are even buried in the chapels. The wealthy could have their own services on Sundays in their own chapel, by younger priests.

If I understood correctly, in the present day there are 3 services on Sundays at 9:00AM, 10:00AM and 11:00AM.

Here are some photos and descriptions:

Bell tower of Seville Cathedral


Massive Silver ornamentation in Seville Cathedral


Looking over the choir loft to the main altar


Grave of Columbus’ son in floor of Seville Cathedral

Columbus’s son


I tried to translate the Latin, and while my Google translation did not make a lot of sense to me, it also seemed a little negative….

“SEE WHAT IS THE PROFIT TO SWEAT ALL THROUGH THE WORLD AND TRAVEL THREE THROUGH THE WORLD OF THE FATHER, THE NEW WHICH THE PLACE BEET RITE FORMED THE DECORATION OF WEALTH. THE GENIE HAS GOTTEN MYSELF TO LOCK YOU THE FOUNTAIN OF CASTLE

I WILL OFFER LIKE PTOLMOE WEALTH, IF IT IS THIN, AT LEAST RUNNING THROUGH THE MUMBLING ROCK

NEITHER HELLO TO THE FATHER, NEITHER DO YOU SAY AWAY TO ME”

Around the world chapel – on August 10, 1519 Magellan left with 5 ships and 234 men. He returned September 8, 1522 with 1 ship and 18 men. In an act of thanks, they prayed before this image of Santa Maria Antigua:

Saint Mary of Antigua


Christopher Columbus is also buried in the Seville Cathedral…or at least Seville claims it is him. Our guide alluded that when they got his remains, they wanted to make sure they got all of him and gathered up some surrounding remains, too….

Christopher Columbus tomb

The largest monstrance in the world, 1,047lb of silver, is known as “The Custody of Arfe”. A “monstrance” or “ostensory” is a vessel used in Roman Catholic Churches for exhibition of some object of piety. It seems they usually hold a piece of the actual body of a saint, but I do not know if that is true of this object. Maybe it holds a piece of the artist, Juan de Arfe. But it was a remarkable piece. It is prominately displayed in the Treaures Room of the Seville Cathedral. The artist, Juan de Arfe (1535-1603) was a Spanish engraver, goldsmith, artist and creator of woodcuts. He was the son and grandson of famous goldsmiths of German origin. 

“The Custody of Arfe “


After the Cathedral, we had lunch at a restaurant named Placentines. I only took a picture of the dessert. We had dishes of potatoes with tuna, potato salad and pasta in tomato sauce with seafood.

Dessert

After leaving the restaurant, we walked down to the river and passed the bullring before boarding our coaches back to the ship.

Bullring


We were so exhausted we just ordered room service and crashed in our suite! We do gain an hour tonight which will be wonderful! We are tired!

Wednesday April 3, 2024 – Wednesday was a sea day and we rested up! After 2 full days of touring, we did not do much. Just started our preliminary packing.

Tuesday, April 2, 2024 – Today our port was Arrecife, Lanzarote in the Canary Islands and we have an all day tour. As we drive to our first stop, our guide tells us there are over 300 volcanos on the island. He also tells us there are a lot of camels on the island. We do see quite a number of camels, but they seem to be used for camel rides. We also saw several herds of goats. 

Our first stop was Parque Nacional de Timanfaya, which is the only national park in the Spanish network that is of an eminently geological nature.  It is the result of volcanic eruptions that took place between 1720 and 1736, and in 1824. The landscape is barren, and looks like what the moon must look like. In some places you can see many layers of lava and in others places is is extremely rough, and at the tops of many of the old volcanoes it is just black sand. There is a long line of cars waiting to get into the park, but the buses go in first, and we were the first bus.

Plants can’t grow in the lava but dust storms blowing soil from the Sahara allows a few plants to start to grow. We do see lichen.

At the park we saw four demonstrations of how hot it is below our feet, and how the farther below ground you go, the hotter it gets.

In the first demonstration, a lady dug down about one foot and then passed around pebbles. The pebbles were too hot to just hold onto – you had to transfer them from one hand to the other, or else throw them on the ground.

First demo of hot pebbles

In the second demonstration, a man tossed some dried plant material into a hole about 6 feet deep, and after about 10 seconds, it caught fire and burned up.

Second demo 2 meters down

In the third demonstration, a man poured water down a tube that was about 9 feet deep, and the water shot back our like a geyser.

Water poured down the tube resulting in geyser

Lastly, we were shown a hole about 12 feet deep. While you could see it was red hot, any  paper thrown into the hole would not burn up because there was no oxygen at that depth.

Volcanic heat about 12 feet deep but no oxygen down there

I think our guide called this place the ring of fire and their symbol is a devilish looking characteristic. Our guide said if you touch the devil while taking a picture it will bring you good luck. So I am hoping for the best!

Hoping for good luck!

It was a very interesting bunch of demonstrations and obviously there is a lot of volcanic activity on the island, although nothing current. 

Then we did a driving tour of the National Park from our bus. The park has tour buses, too, and must have given the pre-recorded tour to our bus. It was interesting and we learned even more stuff about volcanoes. We did see several pieces of equipment as we were driving that we assumed measured the seismic activity.

Volcano Crater


Lava landscape


Lava River Flow


Volcano Crater


Volcano Flow Colors and Stalagmites



Line of Craters



Deep Crater


Big Crater

While driving to our next stop, our guide shows us an egg-size piece of lava with peridot stone. Peridot forms where certain types of lava cool slowly in the ground before they are erupted on to the surface. The crystals of gem peridot grow in the slowly cooling magma melt before it is erupted onto the surface. The type of volcanic rock that peridot grows in is called basalt.

Our next stop was Bodega La Geria for “A” wine tasting 😂😂😂. I say that because we got to taste “A” (one) wine – either a dry white or a sweet white. We took one of each so we could taste both. I tasted the sweet first, which was very sweet, and made the dry wine taste awful, too. But Dave tasted the dry white first and didn’t think it was too bad. However, with getting all our beverages on the ship, and having to fly home on a week, we weren’t going to buy any wine. 

“A” taste of wine…

Grapevines are grown in indentations in the ground, with a wall partially surrounding them, to protect the vines from the winds. These semi-circular stone walls are called “zicos”.

Grape vines in protective indentations and short stone walls

After the wine tasting, we went to the visitors center for the National Park. Here they had built a walkway outside out over the lava fields so you could walk on top of the lava. Inside they had lots of displays, videos, pictures, etc. it was very interesting, especially one picture of a pickup truck in front of a lava cloud.

Pickup truck in front of lava cloud

By now it was almost time for lunch, so we drove to a restaurant. There is a huge abstract  monument by the restaurant which, according to our guide, is a monument to farmers. Our tour description called it “Monument of Peasant”. But, a sign called it a fertility monument! 

This sculpture, dedicated to farmers from Lanzarote, is made with ancient water tanks taken from ships and various objects painted and assembled together, forming a set of geometric shapes combining concrete and iron of great visual impact. Following a design of César Manrique, It was done in 1968 by Jesús Soto. It is 15 metres tall.

The work rests on a mound of stones, a small islet that was not affected by the historical volcanic activity of the 18th century.

The location was not chosen by chance, and it hints at the wit of the author aiming to break with the canonical representation that would be expected at the time.

Manrique seeks through cubic forms to show a peasant from

Lanzarote on the back of a working animal, overcoming the difficulties of a challenging land.

And here is a picture of the monument:

Monument to farmers, peasants or fertility….?

I think the name of the restaurant was “Restaurante @ Casa-Museo del Campesino”. Our lunch was good – we had bottles of water, and red or white wine. We started with a bowl of thick soup (probably stew), and then the entree was chopped pork formed into a square with gelatin, a smear of sweet potatoes, and a few mixed vegetables. Not sure what the desert was – it looked like vanilla pudding but instead of vanilla, it was a local fruit that I’m not familiar with and it had a smear of some red fruit syrup or jelly. Then we got espresso. We liked the lunch yesterday better, but I did not go away hungry. A lot of the buildings and houses remind us of Santorini.

Restaurant where we went for lunch



Inside restaurant.

On the way to our next stop we passed the highest point on the island.

View from the highest point looking down on Haria, the valley of 1000 palms


The next stop was Mirador Del Rio which had beautiful views. It is about 1,560 feet high and has a building with a cafe and souvenir shop integrated into the lava rock, so it is barely visible from the outside. As you e noted, there are two large glass windows which are suppose to resemble eyes giving you a panoramic view. There are viewing platforms outside, as well. The guide said the rock formations in the distance look like various animals, but the only one we could make out was a large rock that resembled a whale. In the past, guards would watch for approaching ships from this vantage point.

Views from Mirador del Rio


Whale Island


Another beautiful view!


The last stop was James del Agua which was interesting. There are a series of volcanic grottoes here. It is a multi level building. After entering, you walk down a few steps into a restaurant that is open to the sky. You walk past the tables to a very dark area for a view of a grotto. Then you walk up some stairs to see a large pool of water with a bunch of tiny white specks on the bottom. The white specks are blind crabs (Munidopsis Polymorpha) which are in danger of extinction. This facility strictly protects their habitats. They are very small creature – I think our guide said they may be one centimeter in size. After viewing the crab habitats, you walk up another set of stairs where there is a swimming pool, in which you are not allowed to swim. Our guide said they use to allow swimming, but now there are too many people. Then you walk up another level to view out over the ocean and a little snack bar. Our guide suggested using the bathrooms on this level as they are the best ones! There was also a gift shop, and another volcanic museum which we did not visit.

First grotto


Blind crab habitat in large grotto
Small white dots are the blind crabs


Another view of blind crab grotto looking back


Very large auditorium built into lava

After our last stop we drove back to the ship.

We thought this was a very interesting day. While we would not want to live here, the tour and all the information on volcanoes and the history of the Canary Islands was very interesting,

We had reservations at Prime 7, a specialty restaurant. Dave had a seafood platter which includes lobster, crab and a scallop. I had lamb chops.

We lose another hour of sleep tonight, and tomorrow is our last sea day.


Monday, April 1, 2024 – April Fools! We are in the Canary Islands on the Island of Tenerife. We have an all day tour, but it is mostly driving on a coach and visiting four towns. The first town we visited was La Laguna. It has wide, flat streets where they used to hold horse races.

It is also laid out in blocks, with parallel streets. Our guide said the US and other places later copied this plan for planning cities. There are some old houses here from the 16th century.

House of Captain -General of Tenerife (1624-1631).


Lercaro Palace erected between 1593 and 1599 by a Genoese merchant on a site previously owned by the notary public. This house maintains the structure of a traditional house.


Aeonium plant on roof of Lercaro Palace. We saw lots of these plants growing on roofs in each town we visited.


Unique door handle

There are monasteries with cloisters built at the very top. The bottom part of the building would be from stone and the cloisters at the tops were wood. The Reason the cloisters were at the top were so the nuns could see out, but no one could see the nuns.

As we drove, we saw a huge volcano. We had to take the photo from inside the coach while we were moving, so not the best picture.

Teide-Pico Volcano is the Third highest volcano structure in the world at 24,600 feet above the ocean floor, and 12,200 feet above sea level.

The next town was Garachico where we walked to a large plaza, and visited a farmers market and a church. I think the main reason we stopped here was public bathrooms in the farmers market. 

Farmers market in Garachico- Salted Fish


Another image of Farmers Market in Garachico


Church in San Cristobal de La Laguna
We visited the church in Garachico


As we drove, our guide told us that Tenerife grows 150,000 tons of bananas a year! In front of our coach was this truck!

Bunches of bananas

The next town was Icod de Los Vinos where the main attraction is a 1000 year old Dragon Tree. 

The El Drago Milenario tree in Icod de los Vinod which is over 1000 years old. It is over 20 metered tall and 20 meters circumference. “ Dragon Tree”


Another tree! This tree is from Madagascar (Pandanus Utilis,Macho) – which I think means it is the male plant


Town of Icod de los Vinos street where oldest tree is located


We stopped in a souvenir shop and I couldn’t resist taking this picture!

Unusual souvenir item …..

Then we drove to the San Pedro Monastery where we had lunch. We had bottles of red wine, water and a basket of rye bread on each table. First we were served chicken noodle soup. Then the entree was roasted chicken hind quarter and potatoes. Our dessert was vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce. Last, we were served espresso. It was a very nice meal in a very pleasant setting. The chickens these hind quarters came from were big chickens. There were live chickens walking around the tables in the outside area (we were seated inside). One rooster was very outspoken! 

Monastery of San Pedro where we had lunch


Lunch inside Monastery


Mama Hen with two babies


Papa Rooster crowing to the crowds!

Our last town was Puerto de la Cruz which is very touristy. But not overcrowded, and actually very nice.

Fisherman with waves striking his rock, Puerto de la Cruz


Our guide said the beaches in Tenerife are black sand. We saw a beach that was bigger and nicer than this one, but here is the black sand.

Black Sand Beach in Puerto de la Cruz

We would not mind returning to Tenerife – while our tour was an overview, we found it clean, lots of little shops and restaurants, and beautiful ocean views. We liked it much better than Cape Verde.

Sunday March 31, 2024 – Happy Easter! 

Somehow we got a little confused with the time changes. We had planned to get up at 8:00AM, but because of the time mixup, it was actually only 7:00AM! Probably good because the next couple of mornings we have early morning tours.

This morning, for Easter, the Cruise Director led a non-denominational Easter Service. It was very nice.

After the Easter Service, Armando Sanchez gave his presentation, on cyberterriorism. His message was basically that it’s out there and worrying about it will not help. Do your best to protect yourself and then quit worrying and enjoy life.

Dr. Kramers talk was on superstitions, the world over! 

I have developed a dry, hacking cough, which I am hearing from others around the ship. I think I am allergic to something, but other than the cough, I feel fine. So that’s good! Usually it’s Dave that picks up a bug. 

We went to Easter Sunday Tea, as did many others on the ship! We enjoy going to tea – not every day, but every few days. Today was much busier than usual. I took a picture, but it only shows half the table of sweets because there were a bunch of people crowding around the other side. They also served ice cream, plain and chocolate chip scones, and a number to tea sandwiches. Today’s entertainment was a piano player. It is all so civilized and nice!

Dinner in Compass Rose, and then get ready for a long day tomorrow.

Saturday, March 30, 2024 – We had a relaxing sea day. We went to two of the speakers – Armando Sanchez and Dr. Gary Kramer. We have found all of Armondo Sanchez’s presentations interesting. Some of Dr. Kramers are sleep producing – like today – when he spoke about “Water”. Dr. Kramer has had good presentations, but kinda hit or miss for Dave and me. Dr. Kramer is a very smart man, he knows it, and wants to make sure you know he is smarter than probably anyone in his audience. We do go to listen to him as he has given some good presentations….we should have known better when we say the title today. We had a nice happy hour in the observation lounge and then went to dinner. We lose another hour tonight, but I think this is the last time change 😁. I always prefer sailing from east to west, but this cruise is west to east, so we will have had four 23 hour days. 🥱🥱🥱. Internet is not very good, but that has been the situation on all our transatlantics. 

Thursday – Friday, March 28- 29, 2024 – Yesterday was the 4th sea day in a row. We did our usual Speakers Series – one was more spy stuff and the second one was about whales. For us, the temperature on the ship is very cold. By the time evening rolled around, I was frozen. One lady said it felt warm to her – she was from the UK! Lots of Brits on the ship. Supposedly we are sailing with 625 passengers. We have been able to get into any venue we want, which is nice. We do not lay out around the pool, but if we wanted to find a spot in the shade, that would be hard to do. We went to afternoon tea, which we usually do a couple times each cruise. Someone spotted a whale breaching out in the open water, so we got to see the whale! For all the cruises we’ve been on, that was a first. 

We went to Chartruse for dinner Thursday evening, and this time I took some pictures! 

Menu Page 1


Menu page 2


Pretty charger plates, but we like the ones in Compass Rose better

I had the Bleu cheese soufflé, which was very good and very rich.

I smashed the top before I took the photo ☹️

Dave had the smoked salmon.

“Blocks” of smoked salmon instead of slices!

For the second course, I had the mushroom soup which is very good.

Mushroom Soup

Since Dave does not like soup, he had the steak tartare as a second course. He is getting so brave at trying things he has not had before. He actually enjoyed the steak tartare!

Steak Tartare

For our entrees, I had the lamb.

Lamb Entree

Dave had Dover Sole.

Dover Sole

As a side, we both had chickpea fritters and neither of us liked them.

Side dishes. The long “Sticks” were the chickpea fritters.

For desert, we were totally stuffed, so we shared a cheese plate, which I forgot to take a picture of ☹️. 

Our port Friday is Mindelo, Cape Verde. The ship provides a shuttle into “town”, but since it is Good Friday, pretty much everything is closed. We took the shuttle and walked to the African Market. On the way we walked past some fishermen who were cleaning and selling fish. I don’t know what kind of fish they were, but mostly small. We did see one whole big fish that a man was carrying and I saw a big fish that had been cut up. The fish seem to be plentiful.

Cleaning fish


Cleaned fish, available for purchase I presume.

Along the street, and the plaza area, ladies are selling all kinds of produce.

Ladies selling produce

The plaza area also has clothing, and other items -it reminded Dave and I of the church rummage sale. Really not much here, especially with it being Good Friday. Seems to be very poor; lots of dogs sleeping on the sidewalks which is always a sign to me of a poverty stricken area. We were only gone on our walking adventure about an hour. 

African Market


One of the several tile murals in the African Market

Our afternoon tour was highlights of Cape Verde. Cape Verde is made up of 10 islands, and some are uninhabited. It is part of Africa. We were on São Vicenti, at the port city of Mindelo. Our tour is basically a drive around the island with a few photo stops. What we can see is a very desolate, desert like landscape. Our guide says it rains 3 months of the year – August to October. She takes us to the highest point on the island, Monte Verde, which is 2,440 feet in altitude. The road is horrendous- cobblestones and very bumpy. Lots of switchbacks, and narrow. Not much to look at as there is little to no vegetation. The houses are very basic, just cement blocks. Many buildings have been started but not finished. At the top of Monte Verde is a little building selling beverages, which we do not buy, especially since it is selling rum in shot glasses. This has the only bathroom on our tour, and Dave said it was stand up only, so not for ladies. It is very windy, which our guide says is normal.

View from top of mountain – you can see the roads, but not how bumpy they are!

Back on the bus, we head down the narrow, bumpy road and drive to a beach area. This is not a luxury beach by any means, but the water is very shallow and it looks like the kids love it.

Beach #1


Beach #2 – the water is very shallow

Next we head to a turtle rehabilitation facility – very small. There are two large turtles in a pool, and two juvenile turtles in another pool. One of the large turtles had been attacked by a shark and lost a fin. The second turtle was blind in one eye. I’m not sure why the juvenile turtles were there.

Juvenile turtle!

Our guide showed us a booklet discussing the protection of the turtles, and I think their policies are similar to Florida, based on the pictures. The booklet was in Portuguese, so I could not read it.


I think the bottom line is there just isn’t much on this island. Our guide said almost every thing is imported. There is an agricultural area on the island, and some deep wells, which allows them to grow vegetables year around. But I wouldn’t think it is enough for the 60,000 inhabitants.

Agricultural area with deep wells

Back on the bumpy road, we headed back to the city, for another photo opportunity.

Photo op from city with long view

Our guide said their income comes mostly from public service, commerce, tourism and exportation of fish.  The total tour covered about 37 miles. 

Our guide showed us the Cape Verde flag. The blue at the top represents the sky, the first white line represents peace, the red line represents freedom, the second red line represents hope, the blue at the bottom represents the ocean, and the 10 stars are for the 10 islands that make up Cape Verde.

Cape Verde flag

This was a beach we saw on the way back to the ship. One of the shuttle attendants told us this is the best beach. The water was a beautiful blue.

Pretty beach in Cape Verde


When we returned to the ship, we were looking for a snack and grabbed a couple of cookies from the “Coffee Connection”. Of course that kind of ruined our appetite for dinner, but after listening to music in the lounge, we went for a late dinner in Compass Rose. Dave tried the lobster again – it was much better. I had swordfish, which was good, but because of the olive tapenade, only olive lovers would enjoy it. 

Cape Verde is not a place I would choose to return to…..

Two more sea days ahead of us. 


Monday to Wednesday, March 25-27, 2024 – We have 4 sea days in a row, and I am attempting to post this after sea day #3. We are going to the Speakers Series with Armando Sanchez, who we have really enjoyed, and Dr. Gary Kramer, who is hit and miss with his presentations. Armando Sanchez is into technology and spying and artificial intelligence. A bit scary actually, maybe that’s why we like it 😁. Dr. Kramer’s presentations can be about stuff that we would never encounter. For example, how to figure out where you are if you’ve been kidnapped and taken to an unknown location by figuring out your latitude and longitude…of course you would have to have an atlas, too. But the last two days have been about the Titanic, which we find interesting. Another speaker has been doing presentations on photography, which we have not attended. 

We participated in the “Block Party” which is a unique event on Regent. Everyone (almost) comes out of their suite into the hallway and crew comes through the hallways with wine and appetizers. Then the Captain and cruise director walk (very rapidly) through all the decks to greet all the passengers. One of our neighbors did not come out of their suite and we have been curious about them. Everyday they have a letter that seems to ask what they want to eat all day. I don’t know if they are quarantined or have food issues or what. One day I was out on the balcony and thought I heard them taking, but couldn’t understand what they were saying. Then this evening, they have a card saying they are going to Prime 7 tomorrow evening, so I don’t understand. The other neighbors we met at the block party were curious about them, too.

We went to Prime 7 Monday evening and had entrees that included lobster – we have not liked the lobster onboard! We requested melted butter for the lobster and they brought us unsalted melted butter which did not help. Dave had the famous Caramel Popcorn Sundae which he enjoyed but said he would not order it again. We’ve actually enjoyed the main dining room, Compass Rose, more than the specialties! 

Tuesday morning at 6:30AM we crossed the equator, and the ship had a ceremony for those who crossed it for the first time….since we have crossed it a couple of times, we did not go. But it is a fun event because they have a big celebration and people crossing for the first time get wet….

Again, just attended speakers series, lounges with music, and production show. 

Wednesday – found our our “neighbors” across the hall moved because they were having trouble with the bathroom plumbing ☹️. The sewage systems on ships do not handle “unusual “ stuff flushed down the toilet. 

One of the Speakers Series talks today was a continuation of yesterday, about the Titanic. Yesterday was more about the ship, Titanic, today was more about the people. Weird, but Dave and I have attended lots of presentations on the Titanic while on ships. 

This evening we’ve been invited to the “Seven Seas Society Cocktail Party”. Since this is our second cruise, we got the invite. I don’t think we have run into anybody that indicated this was their first cruise on Regent. It was really a nice event! They gave some rewards to the crew, and we had some entertainment from the production cast. They did a little program featuring songs from Mama Mia! It was great! Interestingly, after the show, a bunch of folks swooped down on the unserved caviar and helped themselves! 😂😂😂 And I was concerned with what I was wearing….

We went to Sette Mari for dinner tonight and my cioppino had the best lobster of the trip! It was a great dinner! Dave had a veal chop, which was pounded thin and flat, ending up being bigger than his plate! Good news – he liked it! We also had a Valpolicella wine, which was very good. We really enjoyed our dinner tonight. I will say my first course of lasagna was not as good as Mama’s, but we had more than enough good food to make up for it! We may try to go back.

Regent is great and we love everything about sailing with Regent. However, I am not a fan of the artwork 😁. I am not an artist or knowledgeable about art, but I do not like most abstract stuff. 

In our stateroom:

Art in our Suite
Hallway Art

Also in our hallway, but I like it better than most for some reason:

Hallway Art

Laundry is great on Regent! We love their laundry. This is how our underwear was returned from laundry:


Our underwire being returned from laundry. Apparently they don’t like looking at it either!


We are having a great time and decided this trip is too short! Since tomorrow is a sea day, there won’t be much to write about, except how tired we are from 23 hour days 😂😂😂.

Palm Sunday, March 24, 2024 – As our ship gets close to Recife, we are surprised at how big the city looks. There are many tall buildings, probably many are residential. Recife also has the very tall, skinny residential buildings. I can only imagine that the lots held houses at one time, then the houses were bought up by a developer who built a building with as many stories as he could on the small lot.  

Recife was founded in 1537. There are many rivers and bridges meaning the city is made up of several islands (our guide said 7 rivers and Recife Centro is 3 islands). Once we are in port, it is very industrial, so we have to take a shuttle bus out of the port area to get to our tour bus. The port building has a “welcoming committee” for us, a band and a couple of native dancers. 

Welcoming band and dancers

We walked to our bus and our guide appears quite “mature” but looks are deceiving as he was very knowledgeable and spry. Sometimes it was hard to keep up with him because he kept moving! We are heading to Olinda for our first stop which is a Portuguese hillside town founded in 1530. It is a UNESCO listed historic center and the streets are narrow, windy and bumpy (cobblestones) so we have to get off the tour bus and take a minivan up to the top to reach the main square.

We were dropped at a little shopping area where we were given a coconut and straw so we could enjoy coconut water.  They had a neat machine that punched a hole in the top of the coconut. I was surprised at how much coconut water there was inside the coconut! 

Putting a hole for a straw in a coconut


More dancers as we enjoyed our coconut water. Their dance is very energetic!

Then we walked toward The Holy Savior of the World Cathedral. First we went to the the side of the Cathedral building to see an overlook with nice views. 

View from overlook – you can see the tall skinny building and how big Recife looks!

Then we went inside the Cathedral and the Archbishop was conducting mass this morning when we visited. There is a statue of Jesus holding the World in his hand.

The Holy Savior of the World Cathedral & Jesus holding the world


Outside of church


Inside of church

The Cathedral was first raised as a simple chapel between 1537 and 1540. It was dedicated to Jesus Christ as Savior of the World. It was elevated to a Cathedral in 1676.

The Cathedral is at one end of the main square, Alto da Sè, where there are vendors and very friendly tourist police. 

Tourist police actually suggested posing with us!

After walking through the main square, we got back on our mini buses and headed back to Recife. We got off the bus at the Governor’s Palace.

Governor’s Palace


John Maurice of Nassau (1604-1679) Governor of Dutch Brazil (1636-1644)

Then we walked into Republic Square. Our guide pointed out a huge tree, which I believe our guide said was a Kapok tree. 

Kapok Tree?

He showed us a plant that the inside was very soft, but I missed the name. 

Unknown plant – fuzzy inside – monkey something?

He showed us a fruit that he said kids like and it has a lot of carotene, but apparently it is not sold commercially. 

Another unknown…fruit that kids like with lots of carotene

The park had walkways of what he called “Portuguese Tile” because of the pattern. 

Portuguese Tile

Then we walked to what our guide called the Golden Chapel. This church had incredible baroque detain, much of it covered in gold leaf. It was a Franciscan Church. Not being Catholic, I thought the confessional was different than others I have seen.It may have been an antique one. 

Confessional

This church depicted Jesus as dead, and our guide called Jesus’s death the “end”. Being Protestant, I don’t believe it was the end. I believe Jesus rose from the dead, and I worship a living God. 

Jesus is at bottom of the photo shown as dead


Goldleaf in church – there is a dog in the lower left because the dog brought bread every day to this saint


More gold leaf

Our guide also mentioned there is a Catholic Church on every corner, and we definitely saw many church buildings. 

Then we went to lunch. Our lunch was at a Brazilian barbecue, a churrascaria. I picked up their card and the name of the restaurant was “Ponteio”. Of course when the 3 busloads from the ship entered, it was busy. But when it was time to leave, it was busier! There were lines outside waiting to get in. The waiters came around with all kinds of meat and cut it from a rotisserie spit. First we went through a buffet with all kinds of choices of food. Then when you return to the table the waiters come with all the different meats. 

Picture 1 of buffet


Picture 2 of buffet


Picture 3 of buffet


Serving meat


After leaving the restaurant, we drove past the beach on our way to the “Ricardo Brennand Institute”. 

Beach!

Ricardo Brennand came from a very wealthy family and was a collector. He had unbelievable collections of art, statues, books, porcelain, armor and arms, watches, etc. Upon entering the estate, the first thing you see is a reproduction of the famous statue of “David”. Also a copy of Ronan’s “The Thinker”. There was some original statues, but I think there were a lot of reproductions. I am posting a few pictures – there was just too much stuff – sampling of what we saw.

David!


Grounds/Garden


Armor


Lalique


Ivory (there were at least 3 like this, beside several carved tusks)


Part I’d teacup collection, which is smal part of porcelain collection

Leaving the institute, we saw a (real) Capybara, which is a very large rodent. We also saw a duck. 

Large Capybara



Duck!


Although it was a full day tour, we were not totally worn out. I think we walked about 2.5 miles, but it was spread out over the day. It was hot, but this will probably be our last hot day as we head across the Atlantic when we leave Recife.

After listening to music in the lounge, ww had dinner in the main dining room, Compass Rose. Dave had risotto with a few shrimp added in for an appetizer and he had Thai Seafood for his entree. I had escargot for my appetizer and Prime Rib for my entree. We were both happy with our choices.

Tomorrow is the first of 4 seadays, and we start losing hours due to the time difference between Brazil and Portugal. Our TV is already acting up this evening, and it looks like we are losing the internet. So not sure when this will be posted to my blog.

Saturday, March 24, 2024 – We’ve been gone a week already! How time flies when you don’t have to cook, clean or do laundry! 

One more comment about my postal problems….I had checked with the ship because I have traveled on ships previously that would take care of mailing post cards, etc. The customer relations person told me they would be happy to mail the card for me…but it would not get mailed until we reached Lisbon! 

Late afternoon yesterday we went to another Speaker Series talk with Armando Sanchez. His last talk was on spies, and this talk was about artificial intelligence. Basically his message was that we do not know “whose” intelligence we are getting. He also said social media is disrupting the family unit. Children, some as young as 8, are looking to social media and peers for advice and not their parents. He called the children up to age 12 the “alpha” generation. His talk was very interesting and thought provoking.

We had before dinner drinks in the lounge with “Power of Two Duo” which is an Asian couple, Rochelle and Dave, who actually play music we are familiar with. We have enjoyed listening to them. 

We went to Compass Rose, the main dining room, for dinner. We both had Panko covered prawns for an appetizer. Then Dave got his “now usual” pasta and I had a soup. For our entrees Dave had Schezwan Beef Stirfry, and I had lamb chops. No dessert – gotta save a few calories! 

After dinner we wandered the ship a little, went to the top deck to look at the stars (!), and then got a nightcap to take back to the room.

One problem we’ve had with our room is that the refrigerator didn’t work, and despite several calls and visits to customer service. Finally, after 3 days, they replaced the refrigerator and it works!

Today we are visiting Maceió, Brazil. We arrived about 11:00AM and depart at 8:00PM. It was very nice to not have to scramble early – the late morning arrival was nice.

Coming into Maceio

We have a highlights tour, which is described as mostly panoramic- which means riding in a bus. But the other options didn’t appeal to us, so that’s why we signed up for a panoramic tour, highlights tour. It’s was only about 3 hours long, probably because there aren’t a lot of highlights!

Our tour route of Maceio

Our guide went to school in Utah and lived in the US for about 10 years. A second guide, a lady, was with him, but she only spoke Portuguese. Not sure why we had two guides….The name of the city was originally Macayo, which means “what it covers the swamp”. It is located on the ocean, has about 15 miles of shoreline and our guide said the city experiences big tide variances. As we docked, there are piles of white stuff waiting to be loaded onto cargo ships. We later found out it is rock salt.

Piles of white stuff on the dock

Maceió also exports sugar and natural gas.

We drove past a replica of the Statue of Liberty. It is a small scale metal replica which our guide said came from France. 

Cast metal replica of Statue of Liberty

Our first stop was in an area south of the city near the Mundaú Lagoon. A kind of mollusk, the sururu, is found in the lagoon and is used in many of the local dishes. We stopped in this area because it is a local market with local handicrafts. 

Ponta da Barra Street Market


Looked like a grocery store


More handicrafts

We drove past the soccer stadium because Brazil is very proud they have won the World Cup 5 times, more than any other country. The stadium is named after the famous soccer player Pele, even though he is not from Maceio. There is an effort to rename the stadium after the best female soccer player in the world who is from Maceio. I believe our guide said her name is “Marta”, but may have misunderstood because of his accent.

We drove past a palace that is currently an art museum, but a building across from the museum caught my eye. It was covered in tile, and I love tile.

Building covered in tile

Next we stopped to visit Cathedral of Our Lady of Pleasures. Our guide translated from a guide speaking Portuguese…. So this is what I heard (!): This was originally a chapel named for a different saint, but a farmer’s sheep was sinking in the ground. The farmer prayed to the other saint, but the lamb kept sinking. So he prayed to a different saint asking that no one would die (not sure what happened to the sheep), and since no one died, the church became the Cathedral of Our Lady of Pleasures. It was originally built in 1859, and no renovations were done until 2014. Then there was a fire that burned the bell tower. They were able to petition the government and renovation work is ongoing.

Cathedral of Our Lady of Pleasures


Inside the cathedral, The Last Supper


Inside the cathedral, statue brought from Portugal

We had a photo stop at a park with a nice view over the city, Mirante São Gonçalo. There were a few kiosks to get a drink, but mainly just a nice little park with a nice view. The first lighthouse was located close to this park.

View from overlook

We drove along the beach and some nice hotels, past Ponte Verde Beach to Pavilhão Do Artesanato, which is a handicraft market. We wandered around, and then crossed the street to look at the beach.

More craft market


Beach

Some miscellaneous things the guide said (and I may have misunderstood)….the water is polluted in many areas so they do not swim in those beaches but the city built a new sewage plant and the water is improving. The water north of the city is calm and the water south of the city has more waves. In general, the water is always warm.  It because of the tides, they do not swim at high tide, but at low tide. 

We got back to the ship about 5:00PM, and took our showers, as it is very hot here – probably close to 90. The buses supposedly have air conditioning, and the air on the bus is cooler than outside, but definitely not like our air conditioning. 

Tonight in La Veranda they are having a French buffet. Dave is not big on French food, so we went to the main dining room, Compass Rose. Dave had Shanghai-style dumplings for an appetizer and I had Mulligatawny soup.we were both very pleased with our appetizers. For entrees, Dave had lobster and I had scallops. This was the first time neither of us was pleased with the food. Dave’s lobster was dry, but he ate it because he was hungry and the waiters did not come back for awhile. My scallops were over cooked, but not as bad as Daves lobster. So, we decided to order dessert – Saint-Honoré Chou Pastry, Vanilla Custard Crème and Chocolate Sauce. Well…no chocolate sauce came with the delivered dessert, and the only reason Dave ordered this dessert was because of the chocolate sauce. So we did flag down a waiter, and he brought us chocolate sauce, but he said it was a misprint on the menu – it was not suppose to come either chocolate sauce! So, not the best meal tonight, but I’m sure I still gained some weight ☹️.

Tomorrow we are in Recife and we have an all day tour…yikes! So we will be in bed early.


Friday, March 22, 2023 – Our tour is called Highlights of Salvador. It is a 4 hour tour starting about 8:00AM.  Score boarding our bus, we were handed a brochure advising you not to wear expensive jewelry, and keep your phone in your pocket, etc. The guide also reiterated to try to stay low key. Because we were in a group of 30 people, I think we were pretty safe. Our guide spoke very good English and talked practically non-stop – so it is hard to remember all the details. He said Brazil is the 5th largest country in land area with 40% of the land in the Amazon. Brazil is 6th in population and 75% of the population lives along the coast. Salvador was protected by 14 forts and our first stop is a fort, Forte de Santo Antonio da Barra. Within the walls of the fort is South America’s oldest lighthouse. We did not go inside, just a photo stop.

Fort de Santo Antonio da Barra with lighthouse within its walls

The city is on two levels and has elevators to carry people up and down the two city levels. This elevator was the first public elevator in the world.

Elevator

Driving to the Pelourinho neighborhood, we passed parks that had an interesting fencing. Saw several examples of this fence.

Unusual fencing

We were dropped off for a walking tour of the Pelourinho neighborhood. As you can see from the photo, we wandered around a bit!

Map of our walk in Salvador

We saw a couple of statues. D. Pedro Fernandez Sardinia (1496-1556)  was a Portuguese priest and the first bishop of Brazil. On July 16, 1556, he and his crew were shipwrecked and captured by native people. Bahia. Apparently he was bragging about how important he was, so the native people killed him and devoured him, hoping to gain some of his importance by eating him. 

D. Pedro Fernandes Sardinha, (1496–1556), was a Portuguese priest, first bishop of Brazil.

The next statue was of Zumbi (1655-1695). He was one of the pioneers of resistance to slavery of Africans. He was also the last of the kings of a settlement of Afro-Brazilian people who liberated themselves. He is revered in Afro-Brazilian culture as a symbol of African freedom. 

Zumbi (1655 – November 20, 1695)

The culture of those brought as slaves from Africa has been preserved in Salvador more than any other place in the world. Our guide frequently referred to their religion, Candomblé. Candomlé followers believe that every person has a particular deity watching over them – from birth to death. 

We saw several ladies in native costumes, and our guide said you are suppose to pay them to take their picture. This one was taken some distance away, so it was free….

Two ladies wearing native costumes

We visited several Catholic Churches. There are 372 Catholic Church’s in Salvador and while 85% of the population is Catholic, not all are practicing their religion. The amount of gold used in decorating the churches is unbelievable! See the pictures! 

Ceiling of Cathedral Basilica of Salvador


Cathedral Basilica of Salvador
Gold in Cathedral, stone is from Portugal

A lot of the stones used to build the Cathedral of Salvador were brought from Portugal. 

The last church we visited was St. Francis of Assisi.

All St. Francis of Assisi Churches have crosses

St. Francis of Assisi had lots of tile work and is the richest in gold plating and Portuguese tiles. The tiles had “titles”.

“The unity of people is insurmountable”


“The Balance of Friendship”


“The certainty of death”


Inside St. Francis of Assisi Church


Inside St. Francis of Assisi church


Holding up the church

Much of the housing is apartments or condominiums. I saw several that would be 1 unit on each floor, and at least 20 stories tall. Of course I didn’t get a picture of the really tall ones, but this is an example.

Condo or Apartment


The postal system in Brazil has been difficult for me to navigate. We were trying to find postage to mail a letter in Rio de Janeiro and the first post office we visited was closed. A bartender directed us to another post office where you take a number and wait in line. When it was finally our turn, the clerk said they don’t sell postage. But she directed us to a third post office. After waiting in line there, we finally purchased postage and mailed the letter. I have been looking for post cards to mail, and I saw a FEW in the port building today. However, we had already been directed to the post office to buy cards and post cards, which the didn’t have, and saw a very long line of people waiting to be waited on. So by the time I saw the post cards, and there were not a lot of them, I was not up to walking back to the post office and waiting forever to buy postage in this very hot climate. I think it has to be 90° today, at least! But, I will keep trying! 


Thursday, March 21, 2024 – No pictures today – because it’s a sea day!

Last evening we ate at Chartreuse, one of the two specialty restaurants on Voyager. Dave had “Terrine de Foie Gras au Sauternes”

(Duck Foie Gras Terrine with Sauternes Jelly, Toasted Brioche, Caramelized Apricots) for his appetizer. It was very attractive with round crisps on top. He had “Bisque de Homard à l’Armagnac” (Lobster Bisque with Armagnac) for his soup course and “Tournedos de Boeuf Grillé Rossini, Brioche, Royale à La Truffe, Foie Gras Pôelé, Sauce Périgourdine” 

(Beef Tenderloin Rossini, Brioche, Truffle Royale, Seared Foie Gras, Sauce Périgourdine) for his entree with green beans. He did not particularly care for his appetizer and was disappointed that his soup did not have any chunks of Lobster – it was puréed so very smooth. I had Chartreuse Garlic Escargots (Sautéed Snails with Garlic, Herb Purée, Braised Rutabaga, Anchovy & Pommery Mustard Cream) for my appetizer, Velouté de Champignons à la Truffe (Mushroom Veloute, Truffle, Garlic Confit) for my soup course and the same Beef Tenderloin Rossini for an entree as Dave. We shared asparagus and green beans for our vegetable. The escargot was good, but served in an unexpected way – they were covered in the sauce and the waiter jokingly said I would have to fish for them! They were very good, just not what I expected. I liked my mushroom soup, and we both liked the beef Tenderloin Rossini. I ordered a floating island desert that was way too sweet – so definitely would not have that again. To be honest, the food is so good in the main dining room that we only go to the sp vislty testaurants for a change as this is a long cruise.

We went to a Speakers Series presentation by Dr. Gary H. Kramer, a Canadian, on The Age of Discovery. Basically it was a history lesson on the early explorers covering the early 15th to 18th centuries – but it was interesting, and we enjoyed it. 

Then we went to another Speakers Series presentation by 

Armando Sanchez, who apparently worked as a spy for the CIA. That was very interesting and he named several people who knowingly worked as a spy, or assisted spy’s while not being one themselves..such as Cary Grant, Lucky Luciano, Frank Sinatra, Julia Child, Houdini, etc.  He is doing several presentations and I hope we manage to catch them all – he was very interesting, too. 

After lunch we peaked in on another Speaker Series presentation, which was about photography – but it did not hold our attention so we left and did a walking tour of the ship. 

It’s a formal night and we went to the Captains Welcome where the officers are introduced. 

Then we had a nice dinner in the main dining room. I tried something different for my appetizer – white sturgeon caviar profiteroles! They were good. Dave had lobster pasta for his appetizer and we both had Saki glazed salmon with wasabi mashed potatoes for our entree. We didn’t have dessert.

We went to the Voyager Lounge to hear a duo and we danced a bit! 

We were shocked to find a bottle of Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey whiskey in our room. Very puzzling that Regents knew that is Daves favorite nightcap….

Early tour tomorrow in Salvadore, Brazil.

Wednesday, March 20, 2024 – Today we are in Buzios, Brazil. It is a Peninsula about 107 miles east of Rio de Janeiro, with a population of about 35,000 and covers about 27 sq.  (I converted the miles from km so hope I’m close – 173 km from Rio de Janeiro and 71 square km). 

A lot of whale hunting took place near Buzios, and one of the beaches is named “Praia dos Ossos” which means Beach of Bones (whale bones ☹️).  What brought fame and fortune to Buzios was Brigitte Bardot who visited in 1964 and stayed for 4 months while it was just a small village. There is a statue of Brigitte Bardot along the waterfront by sculptor Christina Motta, who also did statues of a former Brazilian president, Juscelino Kubitschek, who looks like he is waving to fishermen, and another statue of 3 fishermen hauling in their nets which is very lifelike. 

David and Brigitte


Former Brazilian President Juscelino Kubitschek


Three Fishermen Statue

We got up very early today to do 2 tours –  in the morning we were in an open trolley and our tour was called “Beaches of Buzios”. Our afternoon tour was in an (somewhat) air conditioned bus and called “Highlights of Buzios”. The bad news is that the two tours were exactly the same, and we even had the same tour guide, who repeated the same spiel. The descriptions were different when we signed up, but reality was they were the same. So twice we traveled around the peninsula and saw12 beaches, afar, from the road. We did make 4 stops, mainly for scenic views. 

Open Air Trolley


One of the Scenic Views


If you have a good imagination, you may see a turtle in this rock formation. The smaller rich is the head coming out of the body which is the larger rock.

The guide pointed out Criminal Rock, which caused shipwrecks for pirates coming to steal Brazilian Wood Trees for their prized red colored wood. 

Criminal Rock


Brazil Wood Tree has red wood

One stops was more interesting to me.  It is claimed that 520 million years ago Buzios was part of a great mountain chain, like the Himalaya. It was created by the collision between continental blocks of South America and Africa when it was all connected, and created a larger continent called Gondwana. 130 Million years ago Africa and Brazil started separating, creating the Atlantic Ocean. Geologists say there is evidence of Gondwana at Marisco Point at Geriba Beach which we visited.

Marisco Point at Geriba Beach



Gondwana Continent



Dave and Jane with our ship in the background.

Between tours we had lunch at a local restaurant, along the beach with great views – but no pictures! We shared an order of mini-hamburgers, French fries and coquettes.

Tomorrow we have a sea day, so probably not much to share.

Tuesday, March 19, 2024 – When we got up this morning there was a heavy fog. We are fortunate we went to Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf on Sunday.

Our transport to the ship arrived on time at 11:00AM. Nothing extraordinary about the drive to the ship, dropping our luggage or boarding. We were on the ship probably by noon, had a light lunch and waited for our stateroom to be ready. As it turned out, we got a two level upgrade. We booked an “H” guarantee and ended up with an “F” cabin which is a 2 level upgrade. Unfortunately, our cabin seems to be under some heavy duty fans which are noisy, and Dave’s not a happy camper. I said let’s wait and see if it is still noisy. Long story, but because we had the snafu with our flight, we were unable to mail a birthday card on our way out of Englewood. So our mission this afternoon was to find a post office in Rio Dec Janeiro. Well, that turned out to be more difficult than we expected. So Google sent us to one address, and all the buildings were boarded up! We asked a bartender and he directed us a few blicks away to another “post office”. We had to take a number and there were 17 numbers ahead of us, so we had a bit of a wait. When our number was called, they said they don’t sell postage at this location and sent us to another location. All this time we are walking! I was following Google maps to all these places. At the third location, we hit the jackpot! He took our money and said he would mail the card. However, we have mailed things from foreign countries that never arrive, so we have our fingers crossed. What was supposed to be to take about 45 minutes ended up over two hours just to get postage to mail a card!

After a shower, as it was really hot hoofing it around Rio Dec Janeiro this afternoon, we had a lovely dinner in Compass Rose, which is the main dining room. Dave had a appetizer potion of resotto for his appetizer and a beef five spice stir fry for his entree. I had an avocado and crab appetizer with Singapore noodles and grilled shrimp for my entree. We shared a cheese plate for desert. So we go back to our room and it is noisy. We got moved to a different stateroom and it is SO much quieter, but there is no safe! Hopefully we will get one tomorrow.

We have an early shore excursion tomorrow morning, so we will watch our 9:00PM sail away and hit the bed soon after. 

I downloaded a picture of the long 8.5+ mile bridge because for some reason the bridge fascinated me. It is called the “Rio-Niterói Bridge” and links Rio de Janeiro with the city of Niterói, crossing Guanabara Bay. Until 1985, it was the second longest bridge in the world, second only to the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway.

Image from the internet – Rio-Niterói Bridge


Monday, March 18, 2024 – We do not generally eat a big breakfast, so we just had out breakfast bars in our hotel room and then met with Gus, our Tour guide, about 9:00AM. Please note that some of the facts are things Gus told us which may or may not be true (!).

For example, Gus said the first people to reach this part of the world arrived on January first, and since it was on a bay, called it Ria which means “bay” – so “Ria de January “ which meant Bay in January. But over time, it became Rio – which means “river”, but there is no river.

I really liked Rio de Janeiro – not that I’d want to live here, but for a big city,it seems pretty nice. Of course we are not night people, so we don’t know what happens after dark…

We drove to the downtown area and did a bit of a walking . First we visited an unusual Catholic Church, Rio de Janeiro Cathedral. It looks like an Aztec pyramid. It was finished  in 1979, so this how it was planned to look. It holds about 20,000 people and has 4 huge stained glass windows. The church was dedicated to Saint Sebastian, the patron saint of Rio de Janeiro, and there is a carriage with a miniature St. Sabastian. Per Gus, St. Sebastian was a Christian Roman Soldier from around 250AD who was martyred. He was tied to a tree and shot with arrows, so all depictions of him show arrows. The cathedral grounds outside are unusual, too. The bell tower is a tall triangle shaped structure. There is a statue of Jesus laying on a park bench titled “Homeless Jesus”, and a statue of Mother Theresa.

One of the stained glass panels
Another of the stained glass panels


Another stained glass panel. This is number 3 of 4, but I don’t think we got a picture of #4.


Saint Sebastian

Saint Sebastian with arrows


Bell tower
Homeless Jesus

Our next stop was the in the “Centro”, or center of the city. It is very obvious where the old city buildings end and the modern city starts. But the area we visited were older buildings which were well cared for. We went to the National Library and the building is totally symmetrical. Gus showed us a door that has a wall behind it, just so it matched the door on the other side of the big, open, atrium. Most of the books have been digitized. We saw stained glass on the ceiling in the atrium, beautiful tile work, brass doors and chandeliers.

National “Symetrical” Library Atrium


Stained Glass ceiling in Atrium of National Library


Brass Doors in National Library

We could not get inside the Opera House, but the outside was beautiful.  There is a huge golden eagle on top. 

Opera House


Golden Eagle on top of Opera House.

Next we drove to Church of Saint Francis of Penance. On one side is a monastery, in the middle are chapels, and then a convent (Igreja Sao Francisco de Penitencia & Covento de Santo Antonio). We saw two chapels. In the first, Dave noticed they were observing communion. We walked to the second chapel and all the walls were gold. Unbelievable! There was a small museum with some artifacts. There was also portraits of the last Emporer and Empress. Their daughter was Princess Isabel, who was their eldest daughter, and there were no sons. There are lots of things named after Princess Isabel and I am sitting in the “Isabel” lounge at the Hilton, right now! She signed the law abolishing slavery in 1888, and in 1889, Brazil became a republic. Then all the royalty had to leave town!

First chapel observing communion



Chapel filled with Gold


More pictures of the gold in the chapel


Closer look at golden statue at the altar


Next we visited the Colombia Restaurant, which is a very popular restaurant in Rio. There was a huge line outside waiting for them to open at 11:00. I think Gus brought us here because it may be the most popular restaurant in Rio, and we could use their bathrooms. They had beautiful desserts in glass cases as well as some coquettes in other glass cases, trying to entice us! 

Inside of Columbia Restaurant


After Columbia, we went to ride the tram. The tram runs from downtown Rio de Janeiro to the station for Two Brothers (the mountains), about a 20 minute ride. We rode from downtown Rio de Janeiro to Two Brothers, then stayed on while the tram backtracked. We got off in the Santa Teresa neighborhood.

I had to take this picture off the internet because somehow we kept missing getting a picture of the tram.
In the tram!



There, Gus met us in the Santa Teresa tram stop and we got off the tram. We had lunch at Portella’s. Gus had ordered a local specialty, moqueca which is a fish dish, served in a broth with shrimp ( he said he thought the fish was shark). It is served with rice, and a side dish which includes yucca. Anyway, it was very good. I think the meal for the 3 of us, including 4 diet cokes and a beer was approximately $40.

Santa Theresa Neighborhood


Name of restaurant where we ate.


Inside the restaurant


Entertainment at lunch!


Moquaca – the main dish
What lunch looked like when combined with the rice and Yucca side dish


Dave had a beer with lunch!


After lunch, we drove to the “Escadaria Selaron” which is the work of a Chilean Artist, Jorge Selaron. It is 215 steps. The steps had became dilapidated and he revived them by putting tiles on the steps. He started just  green, yellow and blue tiles to represent the Brazilian flag, but added red tiles on the sides which were his favorite color, and started incorporating tiles which were sent to him from people around the world. We chose to walk down and were surprised the decorative tiles are on the risers, not the tops of the steps. Selaron also bought a bunch of bathtubs from a junkyard,  to fill in the gaps on the sides, filled them with sand, and then covered them in tiles. Lots of people there getting their pictures taken on the steps, but considering it is a free sight, I guess I shouldn’t be surprised. After Seleron’s death, it became a protected sight, so no new tiles and the older tiles cannot be removed and replaced.

Heading down the 215 steps


Interesting tile of a man that was 1/2 on one step and 1/2 on a second step


More tiles where the pattern was on two steps


Steps with Rio de Janeiro written out
Sides covered in red tiles
Another area wher red tiles covered the sides


Bathtub that was used as filler on sides of steps
First of two Florida tiles


Second of two Florida tiles


Interesting write up by guy who did the tile steps


Picture of Jorge Selaron who made the tile stairway. He passes away about 10 years ago.

Our last stop was Monastary of Saint Benedict. It is a church, a Benedictine monetary, and a school for boys. The first foundations were laid in 1590. Then in 1671 it was expanded, and expanded again in 1880. The boys school was started in 1858. There are several chapels inside, again filled with gold.

Another Golden chapel


More gold in the chapel!

Leaving the monastery, we stopped for a moment at the port and our ship was already docked!

We went back to our hotel to rest for a bit and then took a walk on the Copacabana Beach. There are lots of little restaurants right on the beach selling drinks and food. Some have music. 

Entertainment at one of the bar kiosks on Copacabana Beach.


Copacabana Beach


Sand volleyball nets on the beach


I took a picture of the Copacabana Palace hotel which Gus said was very expensive. Looks very nice from the outside!

Copacabana Palace Hotel

Tomorrow we board the Regent Voyager and will probably spend our time getting familiar with the ship and unpacking.

Sunday, March 17, 2024 – Happy St. Patrick’s Day! After our overnight flight from Atlanta to Rio de Janeiro, we landed about 7:00AM. We went through passport control, then quickly got our luggage (both bags arrived!), then waited in a useless line for customs. I don’t know what was holding up the line, as we literally just had to walk out of the airport. Our guide, Gus, was waiting for us – always a relief – as we walked out of the airport about 8:00AM. He told us he is 58 years old, but he was an exchange student in the United States, living in Oregon as a high school senior. His English is very good and I understand about 95% of what he says ( he talks a little fast). Yes it is hot in Rio de Janeiro – the “feels like” temp is 102°.

The first stop today was the Christ the Redeemer Statue. Unfortunately, it is hazy today, so we did not get a clear, crisp view. The statue is impressive. It is 98 feet high and sits on a 26 foot pedestal. To get to the statue, we rode a train up the mountain for about 20 minutes, then an elevator, then 2 escalators to reach the top. The train was built before the statue because people use to enjoy going up this mountain for the views! It was very crowded at the top. The statue is solid, unlike the Statue of Liberty, so you cannot go inside. But there is a small chapel on the backside of the pedestal. We could not go into the chapel as they were performing baptisms. The statue was completed in 1931, consecrated in 2006, and named one of the New Seven Wonders of the world in 2007. I thought the statues’ face was very peaceful, and his outstretched arms were very welcoming. From the observation deck, we had expansive, 360° views of Rio de Janeiro. We could see the rowing venue used for the Olympics – and there were several boats in the water! We could see Sugarloaf mountain which is our next stop, horse racing track, equestrian jumping tracing area, two brothers mountains, Copacabana Beach, the Hilton hotel where we’re staying, the bay and harbor where our boat will dock Tuesday, and a bridge 8.5 miles long! Great views! 

Statue of Christ the Redeemer



Hard to see, but there are rowers on the water!
Views from observation deck showing horse racing track, equestrian training center and two brothers mountains



View of Sugarloaf Mountain from Christ the Redeemer Observation Deck


A peak into the little chapel on the backside of the platform base of Christ the Redeemer


Leaving Christ the Redeemer, we drove to Sugarloaf mountain. While Gus was looking for a parking spot, we walked down to Red Beach which was wall to wall beach umbrellas! It is called red beach because of the color of the sand, but it reminded me of the sand I saw in Illinois, except it was much finer. The picture does not do the sand color justice.

Red Beach

Gus could not find a parking spot, so we were on our own to visit Sugarloaf. I had ordered our tickets online ahead of time, and since we are over 60 years of age, we got to use the priority lane. We will ride two cable cars to get up to the top of Sugarloaf. We took a cable car up to the first peak, Urca. There are lots of shops and places to eat on Urca, but we kept going to the top of Sugarloaf, so we took the second cable car. The total elevation per Wikipedia’s is 1,299 feet. There are shops and restaurants at the top of Sugarloaf, too. Dave and I got a slice of pizza and enjoyed the view for awhile. The crowds were much less at Sugarloaf, but the views from Christ the Redeemer were better. 

Entrance to cable car showing distance traveled in cable cars


View looking down when we were going up to Urca Mountain in first cable car. Beach on left is Red Beach, but you can only see the umbrellas.


View going up to Sugarloaf from cable car


View from Sugarloaf – the tall black Hotel in the center is the Hilton where we’re staying and the beach is Copacabana Beach
Another view from Sugarloaf


Sugarloaf from our hotel

Then Gus drove us past a flea market near Ipanema Beach, which started when the “Girl from Ipanema” song was popular. Then past Ipanema Beach where there is a statue of Antonio Carlos Jobim (He was called “Tom”) who wrote the song. Ipanema Beach is in the Ipanema neighborhood which is one of the most affluent and trendy neighborhoods in Rio de Janeiro. 

Statue honoring “Tom” Jobim who wrote “The Girl From Ipanema” song

Next to Ipanema beach is Copacabana Beach, and our Hilton Hotel is across the street from Copacabana Beach. See photo above!

Saturday, March 16, 2024 – This is the day we leave for our trip. We are flying to Rio for a couple of days, and then we board Regent Seven Seas Voyager for a transatlantic cruise to Lisbon, Portugal. We had a nice leisurely morning, leaving home about noon for our flight from Sarasota to Atlanta, where we would catch our flight from Atlanta to Rio. That was the plan…..Soon after we left home, I got a text that our flight from Sarasota was delayed about an hour, which meant catching our flight from Atlanta to Rio was in jeopardy. We got on the phone and called Delta – the agent was worthless – he wanted to rebook our flight and was going to charge us! We asked for a supervisor, and he gave us a different number to call. Fortunately, we got a very helpful person. We were able to switch our flight from Sarasota to Tampa, but we had no time to spare! The traffic was atrocious and we were not sure we were going to make the Tampa flight. As it turned out, we parked the car, checked our bags, made it through security with a little hiccup:  Dave beeped and also, he had packed his speaker which they had to take out of his carryon and X-ray it separately. Interesting the RDIF envelopes we have for our passports is what beeped on Dave. He put the passports in the tray to be scanned, but didn’t put the RDIF envelopes in because he thought they were just like paper. We got to the gate and the flight was boarding! But, the good news is that we made it. However, the nice leisurely lunch on the way to Sarasota that we missed meant we didn’t eat from breakfast until about 6:30PM when we grabbed a sandwich in the Atlanta airport. I told Dave it was part of our pre-cruise diet! Very nerve-racking start to our vacation. 

We had Delta Premium seats, which is the old business class. Not as nice as United, and my TV monitor kept losing the sound….so no “in-flight entertainment” for me! They did bring me a glass of wine from first class to compensate for no monitor….We were served a dinner of chicken with potatoes and broccolini, and breakfast was an egg and cheese thing with yogurt. The best thing of all the food was the yogurt….looking forward to a better day when we get to Rio, where the temperature is forecast to be 92°.

Our trip from Rio de Janeiro to London map and itinerary:

We leave March 16, 2024 and are scheduled to fly from Sarasota to Rio de Janeiro by way of Atlanta. We will arrive in Rio very early Sunday morning and we have planned to tour for two days with “Gus”.

We plan to stay in Lisbon after the cruise, flying home on April 9.

Celebrity Ascent Infinite Balcony 6271, December, 2023


Sunday, December 17, 2023

Last night we went to the Tuscan restaurant. For an appetizer Dave had a shrimp cocktail.

Shrimp Cocktail

I had French Onion Soup (which was better than it looks 😁).

French Onion Soup


You can see our butter choices in the photo above. Each night they change up the butters. Last night the one at the top that’s mostly gone had some lemon flavor, the middle one was just butter and the bottom one had Roquefort flavor.
Dave and I had the same entree, Pappardelle alle Veneziana, a pasta dish with roasted chicken, black olives, creamy Asiago cheese sauce and slow roasted Mariano tomatoes. Dave had it earlier in the cruise and really liked it, so we decided to have it as our final dinner onboard.

Pappardelle alla Veneziana entree


Since it was our last night, we had some dessert. Dave had chocolate cake and I had vanilla ice cream. Forgot to take pictures!

We didn’t go to the show because we were planning to get up early.

And we did get up early, before 6:00AM, as the ship was suppose to dock at 7:00AM and we were “walk-offs” meaning we would get off and take care of our own luggage. Unfortunately the ship did not dock until after 7:00AM. We went to the deck when we were suppose to get off and joined a long line of other people planning to walk off. They did not let us off until about 8:15AM, and didn’t get to our car until 8:30AM which means we could not get to church for the 11:00AM service as it’s a 3 hour drive. Fortunately we were able to watch the church service on my ipad. We really wanted to see the service as the choir was singing a cantata and there was a lot of music, an orchestra, a bell choir and the children’s choir! We would rather have seen it in person, but was glad we could watch on my ipad!

The rest of the drive home was uneventful and I’m busy doing laundry!

Saturday, December 16, 2023

Last night we went to the Eden Specialty Restaurant for dinner. First we were served an Amuse Bouche which was pressed honeydew in rose water and blue curaçao. Then Dave had the crab cake appetizer again. I had sheep’s milk gnocchi and ordered an extra appetizer because I thought Dave would share, but he only wanted his crab cake. The extra appetizer was Aegean Fish Ceviche. All the appetizers were good. We both ordered the lobster casserole for entrees, and we were both disappointed! We expected some kind of sauce, some veggies, maybe something crunchy like a crust. We had plenty of lobster, probably in a small amount of butter sauce, a couple of tiny cubed pieces of bacon and maybe two tiny potatoes. Just not what we were expecting.

Dave perusing the menu in Eden


Our view of the wake at dinner – very relaxing!


After dark, there is a light on the wake so we can still see it from our table

We went to the show in the theater after dinner. The entertainment was a pianist, Roy Tan. His show was billed as “Soundtracks” and was suppose to be soundtracks from movies. Unfortunately, we just didn’t recognize most of the movies. He obviously was very talented, and if we knew more of the music, we would have enjoyed his show. What I did enjoy was the huge screen in back of the stage showed fantastic scenes that went along with his music while he played. The scenes and scenery were really cool.


Today is our last full day onboard. It is a sea day. We kinda blew it because we were signed up for a wine tasting, but then forgot! We went to the buffet for breakfast, but had our usual breakfast of scrambled eggs – unfortunately they were cold. Just yesterday, we discovered our favorite hangout, Eden, also serves breakfast and lunch! So we had sandwiches for lunch in Eden. Then we spent most of the afternoon in the stateroom. Dave packed and I did some of my reading for my Disciple 2 class.

We have enjoyed the ship and our stateroom. We are not happy with our room stewardess as she comes very late. We requested she bring ice, which rarely happens. We ran out of tissues, and had to request more. We ran out of shampoo and shower soap and had to bring it to her attention. But what has bothered me most is we have lots of noises in our stateroom. We reported it once and waited all afternoon for someone to come – but no one came. We reported it again and finally walked into our room one day to find four men working on our “infinite balcony” but the noises were not fixed. One of the noises is a drip, or popping sound which makes it difficult to sleep. Fortunately for me I have Bose earplugs, but I don’t like to use them unless I have to because they make my ears sore. Regardless, I have been using them. I don’t know how Dave is dealing with the noise, but I know it bothers him. I told our room stewardess today that the noises need to be fixed because the next people will be bothered, too. She acknowledged hearing the noise.

After packing, we went to Eden for some evening tunes and our happy hour drinks. This is our offering for free drinks from 5:00 until 7:00PM everyday:


Eden does not have regular Absolute vodka, so after I got tired of their Chardonnay, they substituted flavored absolute vodkas or Tito’s. Here are some more pictures of Eden:

Happy hour cocktails – vanilla vodka and rum and coke


View of inside Eden 1 of 2



View of inside Eden 2 of 2


I think Dave wants to go back to the Tuscan Restaurant tonight. We will not be going to the show in the theater tonight as we need to get up at 5:30AM tomorrow morning. We want to get off the ship as early as possible because we are hoping to make it to church for the 11:00 service, which is when the choir will be performing a Christmas cantata. Ray and Celeste are in the choir so we hope to hear them. It is a 3 hour drive from Ft. Lauderdale to Englewood, and we need to be on the road by 8:00AM.

Friday, December 15, 2023

We had dinner last night again in Cypress. For an appetizer I had the Greek Mezze Board which was actually a plate with Tzatziki, hummus, dolmas, taramasalata, olives, feta and little pita’s. Dave had his favorite, shrimp cocktail. My entree was a slow braised lamb shank and Dave had Rigatoni Boscaiola which was prosciutto, button mushrooms, peas, arugula, Pinot Grigio cream sauce and pecorino cheese. We both loved our dinner! So much so, we were stuffed and again, did not go to the show in the theater. We went back to our stateroom and watched TV!

Today we are in George Town Grand Cayman. We got off the ship about 11:00, avoiding the big rush to get off. The ship is using boats from the island to transport us from the ship to shore. Lots of times they use the lifeboats, but not this time!

This was our 3.4 mile walk today!

3.4 mile walk in George Town, Grand Cayman

We saw some historical markers. The first one referred to Lookout Posts.

Marker about WWII Look Out Post


This is a reconstructed lookout post.

Lookout Post

Another marker told about Fort George which was located here.

Historical plaque about Fort George


Then we noticed this site had been preserved by the Walkers!

Walkers preserved this historical site!


We came across a large plaza which commemorated veterans. They had a pretty Christmas tree.

George Town, Grand Cayman Christmas Tree


Another Historical marker!

Marker commemorating Fort Knock


We got caught in some light sprinkles and decided to stop for a drink and a snack.

Iron Shore Bock Beer and White Tip Lager.

Both were local beers. Dave had the White Tip Lager and a portion of each sale goes to a marine preservation organization! So Dave had two!

We headed back to where the tender boats would take us back to the ship and could see where we had stopped for our beers.


Rackam’s at Seven Mile Beach


We have reservations at the specialty restaurant in Eden tonight. We will see if we manage to make it to the show. We have been going to happy hour in Eden before dinner as they have entertainment which we’ve been enjoying.

Tomorrow is our last full day on the ship – so that means time to pack!

Thursday, December 14, 2023

Our walk to town yesterday really tired us out! We are in the Normandy restaurant as planned. For appetizers I had Coquilles Saint-Jacques which was a scallop dish, and escargot. Dave had Baked Brie Cheese. For the entrees I had Marmite Dieposse which was like a Bouillabaise and Dave had Beef Sirloin en Croute which reminded him of beef Wellington. We were both very pleased with our food.

After dinner, we decided we would not go to the show – we were just too tired!

Today is a sea day and we did a lot of nothing today! We did watch others activities. One group was doing origami and later we watched some ten-pin bowling with bean bags. I think they called it corn bowling.

We did a lot of reading and not much else. Only one picture today…taken just outside our favorite hang out place, Eden.

Comfy seating!


Tomorrow we will be in George Town, Grand Cayman, which is a tender port – meaning we will ride in life boats over to the island.

Wednesday, December 13, 2023

The show in the theater last night was great! Three guys singing Motown music and performing at the same time! Lots of energy! The stage is almost “theater in the Round” and the screen on back where it says Motown, continually changes.

Uptown band on stage

Today we are in Cozumel, with 6 other big cruise ships! We were docked next to the sister ship to ours, Apex.

Apex is backed in and Ascent is pulled in. The nose of these newer ships is more rounded whereas the older ships have “pointy noses”.

We have been here before, at least once. Our ship is docked almost 3 miles from the city center. We walked, but kept getting a taxi back as our plan “B”. It was very warm and humid. We walked around and were hounded by vendors. We said “No thank you” a lot! One guy said, “Come in and let me rip you off!” 😂😂😂. We stopped for a drink. Dave had a Sol beer, a Mexican beer that we like. We first had it when we lived in the South Loop, downtown Chicago, in the late 80’s! I had a Margarita – and after I drank some, Dave reminded me that the reason he drank a beer was so he wouldn’t get Montezuma’s revenge. Too late for me, but so far I’m OK.

Dave’s Sol beer and my Margarita.

We decided we would try to walk back, and we made it! Good workout for us today. But our clothes were soaked from the heat and humidity!

Our 7 mile walk today

We got burgers from the grill onboard when we got back, and then went back to our room to relax and shower until happy hour time!

Because of our loyalty with Celebrity, we have a two hour happy hour with free (selected) drinks at most bars. We really like “Eden” because they have good music, and we recognize the wine they pour for our happy hour (usually St. Francis Chardonnay). To get to Eden, we have to walk through a hallway of mirrors, which is interesting! The first time through it is a bit confusing. Not sure how someone who has been over-served!

Hall of mirrors 1 of 2 pictures


Hall of Mirrors #2 of 2 pictures

We plan to try the Normandie Restaurant tonight, and then go to the theater for the production show, “Awaken”.

Tuesday, December 12, 2023

Today was a sea day. Last night we went to the Cypress Restaurant, which focuses on Greek food. Dave had Mediterranean short ribs and I had lamb. After dinner we went to the production shoe, Bridges. While the show was just OK, I really enjoyed the acrobatics and aerial performers.

This morning we went to breakfast and then trivia. We do not join teams, so we thought we did pretty good! We got 13 out of 23 points! After trivia and lunch, we went back to the room for a few minutes and noticed a dripping noise.nI reported it, and we waited all afternoon for maintenance, who never came. I am not happy. We went to happy hour just after 5:00. We went to Eden, which has become our favorite spot, and where we can get free beverages because of our captain club status. Entertainment was a piano player who played some Caribbean tunes but also Elvis and Elton John. I got hungry, so we headed out about 6:30 pm for dinner. We decided to try the Tuscan restaurant. Dave had shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, and a pasta dish. I had bruschetta, shrimp soup and the pasta dish. The food was very good.

After dinner we went back to the room and the head of housekeeping met us to check out the noises we are hearing. Of course it was not as obvious, but we will see if it gets fixed.


Then we went to a game show, “Guess It”. It was kind of like categories. The room eas divided in half into two teams – our side lost again. ☹️

We are in the theater preparing to watch the evening show which is Motown music. The theater:


Monday, December 11:

Some pictures:

We were quite impressed with “Eden” which is a specialty restaurant where we ate last night. This is a picture of the back of the ship, and all this big windows just above where it says “Celebrity Ascent” is Eden. Besides the restaurant, there is a bar, some outside tables, and entertainment in the bar area.

Eden’s large windows
Signage at the entrance which has live moss as the letters.
Ceiling in one area that leads to Eden, and it is live moss with birds chirping piped in.
One of many little seating areas.
Another little seating area.
Besides the swimming pools, we have seen two plunge pools which I have never seen on a ship before. There is another cruise ship docked near us which is the ship in the background.

There was a special event for our level of loyalty called “Create and Pour”. We had no clue what this was, but were told the “pour” part involved wine, so we signed up! The ship’s resident artist (I’ve never been on a ship with a resident artist before, either) gave us an art lesson and we did indeed have some wine to drink. Some of us learned to draw an elephant 😁.

Resident artist whose name is Paris (!)
On the right is what our sketch was suppose to look like.
Our sketches and I’m not gonna tell who drew which one (but Dave’s was best)

After our sketching lesson, we got off the ship and wandered around Nassau. We’ve been here before, so we did not have anything planned. We decided to look for a large bottle of water to keep in our room, and eventually found one. Surprisingly, it was not easy to find!

Our walk around Nassau – about 3 miles!
View of Nassau from the ship #1
View of Nassau from the ship #2

This evening we plan to go to our “free happy hour”, then dinner in one of the four main (free) dining rooms, and the the production show in the theater.

Sunday, December 10, 2023: We had heard that parking may be a problem at the port, so we got an early start at 7:00am for the 3 hour drive to Port Everglades in Ft. Lauderdale. Arriving at Port Everglades about 10:00am, there are several big ships getting read to load thousands of passengers and head out to sea. Quite a bit of traffic, but having been here before helps as we kinda know where to go. We dropped our bag, headed to the parking garage, and found there were several spots available. Whew! Interesting that an attendant was at the entrance asking what ship we were on before letting us park. Haven’t seen that before.

We walked to the ship and were surprised they let us into the building right away. Of course we had to go through a scanner. Celebrity allows you to bring on 1 bottle of wine per person, and as much soda as you can carry (!). But it didn’t seem that the person scanning cared, and I think we could have brought much more wine onboard….but you never know. We had to sit and wait about 30 minutes until the ship was cleared, and then they let us on, probably by 11:00am.

I am not anticipating much action this cruise as we’ve been to all the ports. Our plan is mostly to relax and enjoy the ship.

We are on the Celebrity Ascent, which is their brand new ship. The “maiden voyage” was last week, but there were two short 3 day voyages before the maiden voyage. It is our first time on an “edge class” ship. I did not have very positive thoughts about the edge class ships, but after being on the ship for one day, I’m pretty impressed. It is a beautiful ship with lots of places to sit and enjoy entertainment or whatever. We had lunch in the ocean view cafe, and there were all kinds of choices. I had some roast beef, steamed vegetables and a few mussels. Dave had an assortment of things including a rice dish and green beans.

We do not have any of the beverage packages, so it will be pay as we go. In the afternoon we got our internet set up, made a couple of reservations for some events – a wine tasting and a “create and pour” event.

We had reservations for 8:00pm in a specialty restaurant and tried to get an earlier time. We had to change to 5:30pm which is very early for us. As it turned out, the time was fine. We had a great table on the back of the ship by a window, and we could watch the wake. The food was wonderful. We had a crab cake, a shrimp dish and a mushroom risotto for appetizers. Dave had grouper for his entree and I had a small filet mignon and small short rib wellington. After dinner we shared a chocolate pie dessert.

We went to the show in the theater, a comedian, Daniel Joyce. He was very good, and the comedy was clean.

Overall, a good first day. Being pretty tired from our early start this morning, we were in bed early.

Itinerary:

Sun, Dec 10Fort Lauderdale, FL3:30pm
 Mon, Dec 11Nassau, Bahamas7:00am5:00pm
 Tue, Dec 12At Sea 
 Wed, Dec 13Cozumel, Mexico8:00am7:00pm
 Thu, Dec 14At Sea 
 Fri, Dec 15Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands7:00am5:00pm
 Sat, Dec 16At Sea 
 Sun, Dec 17Fort Lauderdale, FL7:00am

Norway on Sky Princess, 2023

Itinerary: (Daily blog is below itinerary…scroll down)

8/17 – 8/18/2023: Fly to Southampton, England

8/18-8/19/2023: Overnight at Hilton, Heathrow Airport

8/19/2023- Board Sky Princess, Reserve Class Mini-Suite M108

8/20/2023 – At Sea

8/21/2023 – Bergen, Norway 10:00AM – 7:00PM

8/22/2023 – Flam, Norway 7:00AM – 4:30PM

8/23/2023 – Andalsnes, Norway 10:00AM – 7:00PM

8/24/2023 – Trondheim, Norway 8:00AM – 4:00 PM

8/25/2023 – At Sea

8/26/2023 – Honningsvag, Norway 10:00 AM – 8:00PM

8/27/2023 – Tromso, Norway 9:00AM – 5:00PM

8/28/2023 – At Sea

8/29/2023 – Olden, Norway 8:00AM – 4:00PM

8/30/2023 – Skjolden, Norway 9:00AM – 5:00PM

8/31/2023 – At Sea

9/1/2023 – Zeebrugge, Belgium 10:00AM – 6:00PM

9/2/2023 – Disembark in Southampton, England and fly home

Dave took this picture – maybe a better indication of our stateroom that is on top of the bridge

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9/1/2023 – Friday- Zeebruge: My last post this trip!

Our port today is Zeebruge, but we have a ships excursion to Ghent. This is also the port for Brugge, but we have been to Bruges twice before, but never to Ghent. Coming into port, we see lots of wind turbines. This is a big commercial port and our guide said over a million cars pass through here every year. Most of the cars we saw were Toyotas, but there were other brands. 

Cars! Waiting to be shipped somewhere!

The weather forecast for today was not good, and we drove through a lot of rain. We boarded a bus and the drive to Ghent took about an hour. The guide gave us some history of Ghent. He said: Ghent and Bruges were medieval cities. Before 500AD, this area was under Roman Rule. There were two abbeys built in Ghent in the Middle Ages, St. Peter and St. Bavo. The monks built dykes, grew wheat and brewed beer. Ghent was the largest city in Europe before 1500 because of their wool industry. 

Upon arrival in Ghent, it was still raining lightly.

St. Nicholas Church and wet pavement

We walked to a canal boat for a tour by boat. The boat had covers that were similar to pool umbrellas.

Boat similar to the one on which we had our tour, but ours was longer.

It was interesting, and somewhat exciting, as the boat captain would lower the umbrellas as we went under bridges, which were very low. We had to lower our heads to keep from getting smacked in the head.

We’re smiling, but the “umbrellas” are coming down on our heads!


Our view when the “umbrellas” were up

There are several canals in Ghent and we passed by Graslei which is a quay in the historic center of Ghent. The quay was a part of the medieval port, and is a part of the protected cityscape with its row of historic buildings. Many of the buildings have been turned into restaurants with their outside eating area overlooking the canal. We tourists love that stuff. 

But, today, our time in Ghent is limited, so we really just got a brief overview. 

We saw several historic buildings. Some of my favorites:

Merchants building from 1726


Small, narrow house was Tax collectors house


Historical Building in Graslei, a quay in the historic center of Ghent


Historic Building along quay




Marriott Hotel. Our guide said the 2 swans resemble the number 22 which stood for a brothel.

Along one section of the canal are what I assume to be condominiums. On one balcony was a statue of a woman that looked like she was going to dive into the canal.


Diving into the canal to meet her lover on the other side

On the other side of the canal was apparently her lover, also getting ready to dive into the canal to meet her. 

The lover, also diving into the canal

A poem was along one wall.

Poem! “Erre of Boredom”


Translation! Thank you Google Translate App!


Gravensteen castle of the Counts which has an extensive collection of torture equipment! No, we didn’t get to see it ☹️.

After our boat ride we had about 1 hour to explore on our own, which was nowhere near what we needed. I was interested in St. Bavo, an abbey founded in the 7th century. The abbey is famous for what is considered a masterpiece by Van Eyck, “Adoration of the Mystic Lamb”, created in 1432, and is considered as one of the greatest artistic masterpieces of Belgium. So after our boat ride, due to our limited time, we headed directly to St. Bavo.

St. Bavo Cathedral

I am not an art aficionado, and neither is Dave, but this seemed to be an important piece that we should see. We found the church, wandered around, and finally found an entrance to see the masterpiece. But, you had to check your backpacks, and buy a ticket, and then walk to the back of the church. The tickets were 16.5 Euros per person, and with our limited time, we decided not to do it. If we would have had an hour to peruse the masterpiece and other artifacts, it would have made sense, but we just did not have enough time. ☹️The parts of the Cathedral that we did see were very interesting. They had a lot of beautiful stained glass and the pulpit was probably one of the most decorated we have ever seen.

St. Bavo interior


Pulpit inside St. Bavo


Reliquary in side chapel, not sure whose bone it is – maybe St. Bavo

Another interesting artifact they claim to have, but we did nor see (was probably with the masterpiece we didn’t see) is a reliquary of John the Baptist’s head. They also have artwork by Peter Paul Rubens and Jan van Cleef – as well as artists I’m not familiar with. So this cathedral had a lot of interesting (to us) stuff, but we just didn’t have the time to see everything.

We saw the old opera house and in front was a statue of Jan-Fran Willhelms, a famous Flemish poet, playwright and essayist. I assume his statue is in front of the opera house because he sought to promote Flemish culture and the Dutch language as well as seeking greater political autonomy for Flanders within Belgium. 

Old opera house


Jan-Fran Wilhelms


Interesting figures on top of building we saw while walking back to our meeting point

On the way back to the meeting point, we grabbed a “sandwich” which we split, and it was our lunch. It was called a pizziola (?). Basically 1/2 a sub bun with some salami, cheese and sauce which they heated for us. Then we discovered we were a bit turned around and had to rely on our Google map to get us back to the meeting point, which we found with only a couple of minutes to spare!

The drive back to the port was quiet and uneventful. We did some more packing, went to a shopping raffle to see if we won a $1,000 shopping spree (we didn’t) and then we went to dinner. We said goodbye to some ladies from Scotland who were celebrating their 70th birthday. We sat next to them at dinner several nights. I told them the secret to staying young was to marry a younger man 😳! As usual, we went to a “game show”, then grabbed out last “free” glass of wine, and headed back to our stateroom to finish packing. We have an  early morning tomorrow, and then many hours of traveling. We’ll leave the ship about 8:00am, and arrive home about 2:00am Sunday – but with the time difference, it will be 23 hours after leaving the ship. 

We are at Heathrow airport as I write this, and just found out my boarding pass calls for secondary security screening! 


8/31/2023 – Thursday – Sea Day: No pictures today! We peeked out at the beautiful full super moon last night. Fortunately the sky was clear – but no northern lights ☹️. This morning we slept in, and just grabbed a pastry and coffee from the International Cafe, which is kinda like  a coffee shop. We were not too active today. We redeemed some of the cash due to us from on board cash credits given to us from the travel agent, and because Dave is a shareholder. If you own 100 shares of Carnival stock, which is the parent company of Princess, they give you money to spend on the cruise, which is called onboard credit. You can pay for shore excursions, clothes from the boutique, etc. However, Princess owes us $60 from an excursion they canceled sometime prior to June. We keep waiting for them to refund the $60, and have involved our travel agent, but almost 3 months after the fact, we still don’t have it. So we wasted some time standing in various lines to see if anyone onboard could help us get our refund. 

Today is our last sea day and it is also formal night. This afternoon we packed up about half of our stuff – mostly dirty laundry. Tomorrow is our last day onboard, but we have a ships excursion to Ghent, so the rest of the packing will happen tomorrow evening. Generally you need to put your luggage out by 10:00PM the night before you disembark. 

We had a nice dinner since it was our last formal night. I had escargot and Dave had cheese tortellini for appetizers. We both had lobster thermidor for our entree.

We have not been overly impressed with the evening entertainment on the ship, and generally just go to a game show or listen to music in one of the lounges. Tonight was a game show, “Majority Rules”. We never win anything, but generally the game shows are funny. 

Afterwards we might get a drink and head back to our room, which is what we did tonight.

8/30/2023 – Wednesday – Skjolden: our port today is Skjolden. It is located at the end of the longest navigable fjord in the world, 125 miles from the North Atlantic. Today is kind of hard to write about because much of our day was riding on a bus. We have an all day ship’s tour to Lom, Norway, about 50 miles away, which is in the eastern part of the country. To get there, we have to cross the mountains, on the highest mountain road in Northern Europe, the Sognefjellet National Tourist Route. It was finished in 1938. The highest point on the road is 4,700 feet, and is Europes highest mountain pass.  We have views of the Hurrungane Mountains and can see glaciers in the distance.

Glacier in distance

However, Dave and I both felt the scenery yesterday was better. Before the road was built, people would cross the mountain with horses. There was an old house where they would sometimes stop and spend the night. Our guide said there were lots of people crossing, and one year there were 1600 horses and 2000 people.

House from late 1600’s

There are cairns built with stone, and many topped with a stick, to designate the trail for crossing the mountain in the snow, before the road was built.

Cairn to mark the trail over the mountain from before the road was built

There is a monument we stopped to see for 6 men who froze to death while crossing the mountain. There were also 6 individual stones to remember the men.

Monument to 6 men who froze to death crossing the mountain

While we were stopped there, 4 sheep came running towards us!

Sheep running toward us!

We saw several sheep while driving, some were even laying on the road. In the summer, the sheep graze in the mountains, and then in the winter, the farmers gather up their sheep and bring them back to the farms. Apparently each farmer has an area where their sheep graze and they do not wander far from that area. 

Sheep along the road

I thought the best part of our day was when we arrived in Lom. We visited the Norweigen Mountain museum and saw an exhibit on items that were found in melting or retreating glaciers. Some of these items are thousands of years old. By the number of pictures, you can tell I am fascinated by this stuff…and this is not all of my pictures….

Shoes


Norways oldest arrow. Arrow shaft is 6100 years old and is the oldest archeological find from the ice in Northern Europe


Center is Knife from the Viking Age, 900AD. Handle made from curly birch.


1300 year old skis


Snow shoe for horse


500 year old dog, with collar


Mitten


Viking grave with typical 12 arrows found in 1985

They also had a full size replica of a wooly mammoth. 

Wooly mammoths were huge! Look at the tusks!

After visiting the museum, we had lunch at the Fossheim Hotel and restaurant. The hotel  started as an inn in 1897 by the Garmo Family, who still runs the hotel. Our lunch consisted of salmon, mixed vegetables, potatoes, lava cake and a small scoop of berry gelato. 

Next we visited the Lom Stave Church built in 1158, using the traditional post and beam construction. It is one of the largest stave churches still standing in Norway. It started as a Catholic Church but changed to Lutheran in 1608. In 1997, Norweigens who left Lom, Norway for America donated an organ to the church. Since the 1960’s, the church has had an electric organ, but the carved wooden front remains from the donated gift. The church has expanded twice, but the basic church was still there. According to the guide, there was some ancient graffiti carved into some of the wood. Near the roof someone had carved “I made it up here” and next to a bench, someone had carved “I am bored”. Outside the church was the cemetary and the guide said there were no ancient gravestones as the ground is recycled. So the stones are removed, but any bones that are found are left in the grave when the new coffin is put in place.

Lom Stave church
Pulpit


Nave


Leaving Lom, we headed back to the port and made a couple of photo stops.

Helicopter hovering – not sure why! May have been clearing some timber?

We stopped to see a 131 foot column that had been carved to show the history of Norway.

Column depicting Norway’s history

Our last stop was the Asafossen Waterfall. During the rainy season, or in the spring when the snow is melting, a lot more water pours down.

Waterfall

We were suppose to be back to the ship by 4:30, but we were late, not getting back until 4:50. So we were a little late departing this port.

This evening’s entertainment was the “Marriage Game”. They ask 3 couples to volunteer and ask them embarrassing questions like the old Newlywed Game on TV. Always very funny!

8/29/2023- Tuesday- Olden ( actually Loen): According to our guide today, the population of Loen is about 200, and Olden’s population is about 400. Today there were 3 huge ships visiting the area. Sky Princess with 3,848; P & O Iona about 5,200, and an MSC ship, but not sure which MSC ship. So at least 10,000 people from cruise ships descending on this area. The P&O ship took the one port space in Olden, so our ship is anchored in Loen and had to tender people ashore. I give Princess credit that their tendering operation was pretty quick because they used two exits with two tenders always waiting. It was a pretty quick trip from the ship to the shore. The ship is anchored at the end of the Loen Fjord, which is a short distance from Olden. We are right next to the Loen Skylift which takes passengers to the top of Mt. Hoven, about 3600 feet, in just five minutes! It is one of the steepest cable cars in the world. People were waiting in line for 2 hours to go up. We did not go on the Skylift.

The Sky Princess tender boats and the entrance to the Loen Skylift

We are feeling very fortunate because it is a beautiful day with lots of sunshine. Rain had been forecast, but we did not experience any rain. Our tour was the “Briksdal Glacier Hike”. Dave and I always seem to have some type of adventure on our trips, and maybe today was the day, but our trip is not over yet. The drive to the Glacier takes maybe 25 or 30 minutes and the scenery was gorgeous. We saw more Troll Marshmallows. The farmers in this area call them “Tractor Eggs”.

Troll Marshmallows/Tractor Eggs

We passed an old church in Olden.

Olden Church

There is a picturesque lake surrounded by mountains, with a few farms scattered here and there.

Farms along the lake
Pretty view as we drove to the glacier

Our guide told us about our hike which he said takes an average of 45 minutes but 55 minutes for slower walkers. He said we would see a split in the path and he suggested we stay to the left and take the stairs because it was shorter. Supposedly it is about 700 feet gain in altitude, but my trusty compass app was showing over 900 feet. We started walking up the path, and reached a split. We stayed to the left, as he suggested, onto the Kaiser Wilhelm trail…this was our adventure. The guide did not mean this split, but one that was further along the path.

People at lower left on the path we should have taken

The Kaiser Wilhelm trail was shorter, but that means it was MUCH steeper, as you can see in above photo. We had to rest quite frequently. No one followed us up this path, but we did see people coming down.

Goats we saw on the Kaiser Wilhelm Trail

They were all encouraging saying the Kaiser Wilhelm Trail was shorter. As we approached the point where the trails meet, people were astonished that we took the Kaiser Wilhelm trail. We were astonished, too. Our legs weren’t very happy either, but we made it in about 55 minutes. The glacier was interesting and the water coming down was not as cold as I expected, but maybe that’s because I was testing it close to the shore.

Testing the water temperature



Briksdal Glacier
Briksdal Glacier near Olden, Norway

After spending some time at the viewing point for the glacier, we headed down, but this time we took the longer but more moderate path. About half way down we found the stairs our guide told us about. After our hike, our guide met us at the restaurant where our buses had dropped us off, and we were treated to coffee and cakes. 

The glacier we visited is interesting as it is an arm of the Jostedalsbreen Glacier, which is the largest glacier in Norway. While the glacier has been retreating during most of the 20th century, it actually advanced in the 1990’s. It has retreated pretty dramatically since 2000. Increased winter precipitation caused the mass gain. Record high snow accumulation was measured during mild and wet winter seasons. 

Graph of Briksdal Glacier retreating and advancing


Interesting info on ice age


Info on Glaciers

We visited the gift shop and I tried to buy something for Dave, but he wouldn’t let me.

Why didn’t Dave want these?


On the way back to the ship we stopped for a photo op of some scenery.

Lake and mountains Scenery


Waterfall Scenery

Soon after we returned to the ship, it was sail away and we were heading out of the fjord.

8/28/2023 – Monday – Sea Day: A few nights ago, we went to the entertainment in the theater, a “mentalist”. Supposedly he can read minds, but I think it is more of a magic act. I find it entertaining, Dave finds it boring 😂😂. 

When we were on our tour yesterday, each time we got back on the bus, the driver had to take an alcohol test or the bus wouldn’t start! Our guide explained it’s the law in Norway.

Last night we went to a specialty restaurant, The Catch by Rudi, and we had the same meal as the last time we went: crab cakes appetizer for Dave, smoked salmon under a cloche for me, and surf and turf for both of us. This time Dave took pictures of my salmon appetizer. This salmon is so good, I would have liked it as my entree. 

Salmon served under cloche with smoke


Lifting the cloche and releasing the smoke


My delicious salmon appetizer


Surf and turf -or lobster and steak!

After dinner, we went to a high deck with lots of other people for a northern lights watch … but they did not show up again ☹️. The sun never totally set on the horizon, and this is what the horizon looked like about midnight (while we were still watching for the no-show northern lights).

Sun does not fully set…this was around midnight as we were looking for the northern lights

Our captain made an announcement that it may still be possible to see them tonight if the sky is clear. 🤞 But, it is not looking good.

We went to the Captains circle party where the people who have cruised the most on Princess are recognized. The 2nd and 3rd place people had cruised over 1,000 days with Princess and the 1st place people had cruised over 2,000 days – I forget the exact number, but it turned out to be over 7 years! 

We also went to another quiz game. The most points you could get was 50, and we had a negative score. I enjoy these games, but we just don’t do well ☹️.

My certificate for the North Cape

We are keeping an eye on the hurricane. Hoping everyone stays safe.

8/27/2023 – Sunday – Tromso: We docked about 9:00AM this morning, but we are a bit out of the town. There are shuttle buses, but we have a ships tour at 12:30PM, so we just relaxed this morning after breakfast. Tromso is located on Tromsoya island. Tromso is the largest urban area in Northern Norway and the 3rd largest north of the Arctic Circle. The Gulf Stream gives Tromso a milder climate than other places at the same latitude. We did see trees here!

At 12:30ish, we boarded the bus for our tour. Our first stop is the cable car, Fjellheisen, built in 1961. The cable car takes us 1300 feet to the top of Storsreinen Mountain. When we got up this morning it was very foggy, so we were concerned with what we’d actually be able to see. But the clouds were lifting and while not totally gone, we had some magnificent views from the mountain top. Besides the viewing platform at the top of the mountain, there was a little playground, a snack shop, and lots of places to sit and enjoy the view. This is billed as the best place to view the northern lights. I’m sure that’s true, but we are scheduled to sail away at 5:00PM. With the sun coming out, it was very warm up there and we did not need our jackets.

View from top of Storsreinen Mountain


Another view from the top of the mountain


A view of our next stop, the Arctic Cathedral, from the mountaintop


Heading down the mountain with the other cable car heading up…note the trees!

Leaving the mountain, we drove to the Arctic Cathedral, built in 1965, an Evangelical Lutheran church. Since it is Sunday, we were told we could only view it from the outside. But when we got there, they let us go inside. It is made of metal and concrete, coated in aluminum giving it a very modern appearance. The inside seats 600, and has a beautiful stained glass mosaic in the front. Looking towards the back you can see the organ pipes. On the lower level were pictures of the construction.

Stained glass in front of cathedral


Organ pipes at back of cathedral

It is strategically located as it is at the end of a bridge that connects another island to Tromsoya island, so it is in front of you as you cross the bridge.

View of Arctic Cathedral from the bridge leaving Tromsoya island

Our last stop was the Arctic University Museum of Norway. At the museum, our guide directed us to a small theater where we watched a movie for about 15 minutes of the northern lights over Tromso. Then we wandered around the museum. Of course we did not have time to see everything, but we saw a skeleton of a whale, and several other preserved species such as a huge turtle, a bear and rabbits. We moved on to an exhibit of the Sami people, showing how they lived. One surprise is their tents look like teepees.

SAMI people exhibit

Another exhibit was about how the Norweigen people were affected during WWII. Some of the local residents had no choice but to comply with the Germans, and were tried after the war for doing so. However it seemed they were not condemned, as they really had no choice. One story told about how one business owner helped build a railroad. But the Norweigen legislators had approved building the railway before the war, so even though he build it at the demand of the Germans, it was approved and needed anyway. One story told about a Jewish mother and her two year old daughter. Both were sent to the gas chambers. The Holocaust was a very terrible part of history and all the stories are just so sad. 

After leaving the museum, our guide gave us a little tour of the city on the way back to the ship. We drove through the university area, and our guide is a student from Greece working on his Masters degree. Education is very inexpensive in Norway. Because our guide is European, he only pays about $60 a semester for his education. He has to pay for his own meals and lodging, which is expensive in Norway. 

We got back to the ship and our departure was delayed about 30 minutes due to the ship having thruster issues. 



Cloud bank between the water and mountains

Tonight we have reservations in the Catch by Rudi, specialty restaurant again. We also have hopes of seeing the northern lights again. Nothing but clouds last night, but the sky has cleared up considerably, and the captain also made an announcement that tonight may be our best chance to see the northern lights. 🤞🤞🤞


We were given certificates to show we were in the Arctic Circle 😁

8/26/2023 – Saturday – Honningsvag: we are as far north as we are going in Norway. We have a private tour today, however, the two private tours I booked on this trip were actually big bus loads! I think the old philosophy was booking a private tour, as opposed to a ships tour, so you would have a smaller group and a more personalized experience. Not any more! 

The tour was of the North Cape with Finnmark Tours. They had two big buses! We thought we were getting to the meeting point early, but both buses were pretty much full when we boarded. An audio guide played as we drove, and the narrator had some humorous comments. It is cold in this part of the world, with the high temp in the town being 50°. But we drove past a mountain lake and the audio guide called it their beach. It actually looked like a beach at one end. She said men walk into the water and come out as women 😂😂😂. We are seeing lots of reindeer in the wild.

Reindeer!

All the reindeer belong to the Sami people, who are the indigenous people in this area. There are about 80,000 Sami people living in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. We had a photo stop in the northernmost fishing village, Skarsvag. Our audio guide said 70 people live here, but by the number of houses, I would think the number would be higher than that. The audio guide also said everything in this part of the world seems to be the “northernmost” something.

Skarsvag – northernmost fishing village

The next stop was advertised as a visit with a SAMI family with traditional SAMI outfits and reindeer. Actually, my map called it “Matkemuittut Somby SAMI Souvenir Shop”. It was a roadside souvenir shop with SAMI souvenirs, teepees showing how the SAMI people live, and there were reindeer. We did not see a family, just one man running the souvenir shop wearing a SAMI hat that has 4 points.

Sami Village


Sami tent with fire burning inside


Furs for sleeping (?) inside Sami tent


Reindeer at Sami village


Inside SAMI gift shop. Man on far right is wearing four corner Sami hat.

The next stop was at the North Cape, which is the northernmost point of Europe and Norway. Our bus driver gave us  2 1/4 hours for our visit, which was not guided – we were on our own. The North Cape location is designated as 71°10’21”. There is a very large building which has bathrooms, a movie theater, gift shop, restaurant, etc.

North Cape building housing movie theater, restaurant,etc.

We were able to see the movie right away, but had to stand as the theater was packed. The movie showed the four seasons at the North Cape. Then we visited the gift shop where we purchased a little troll holding a replica of the globe. I also bought some Christmas napkins. That will probably be the extent of my souvenir purchases. Then I convinced Dave it was time to head outside into the cold to visit the “Globe”. The point is marked with a globe, erected in 1977, which has become the symbol of the North Cape. It was VERY cold and windy by the globe. Fortunately we were pretty well dressed for the weather.  People were civilly standing in line, freezing, to get their pictures taken with the globe, including us. Of course there were a few “special” people who would come in from the side, but fortunately they were in the minority. We were fortunate that the weather cleared a little before we headed out to the globe. I don’t think they get many sunny days, and the audio guide indicated the North Cape was frequently blanketed with fog. We took one family’s picture and then they took our picture.

Freezing in front of the globe


Globe without people freezing in front of it

We walked around a few minutes and then decided we’d had enough of the cold and wind and headed back to the building. We were able to get a drink and we sat in a window seat in the warmth looking out at the globe for a short time. I was really glad we had as much time at the North Cape as we did because so often we feel rushed. This time I felt we had time to wander and enjoy the visit.

Friendly trolls in the North Cape building

The bus took us back to Honningsvag and gave us a little tour of the town. The population is about 2300. Honningsvag, and the North Cape, are on an island, Magerøya, an area of 271 square miles. Gasoline is about $9.25 gallon. We saw lots of seagulls in the town! The driver told us the weather is impacted by the Gulf Stream and the harbors do not freeze over. The Arctic landscape we saw is interesting because there are no trees. 

Arctic landscape – no trees!

Our driver said this area is 80 miles north of the tree border. The no trees kind of surprised me because the elevation at the North Cape was only about 900’ above sea level (according to my compass app on my trusty iPhone). One interesting landmark in the town is the church, which was built in 1885.

Honningsvag Church

During WWII, the whole town was destroyed except for the church. Our driver told us the people lived in the church for awhile as the town was rebuilt. We had the option of leaving the bus at this point and walking back to the ship, which we did. We passed a neat looking antique shop, unfortunately it was closed. None of the other shops looked that interesting. King crabs are a big revenue producer here, and we saw it on the menu at one restaurant for $160 – supposedly enough for 2 people though. We did not get any king crab. 

We saw one other interesting landmark in town! They had turned a telephone booth into a library!

Library!

We walked back to the ship and grabbed a snack to hold us over for dinner. Tonight is suppose to be one of the better nights for viewing the northern lights, so we are hopeful. Dave stayed up last night until about 12:30am, but didn’t see anything. Unfortunately there is so much cloud cover, I’m afraid our chances are slim. But, we keep hoping. 


8/25/2023 – Friday – Sea Day: Today is Lily’s birthday. Since Norway is 6 hours ahead of Florida, I was intently watching the clock. I think she gets up for school at 6:30AM, and my plan was to send her a message at 12:30PM Norway time. No matter what I did, I could not get a message through to her. No email, no text, nothing ☹️. I am bummed.

We crossed the Arctic Circle about 5:00AM, and we are continuing North to our next port Honningsvag for the North Cape. This will be as far North as we can go.

Last evening we had reservations at a new Specialty Restaurant onboard, The Catch at Rudi’s. It is primarily a seafood restaurant. Dave had crab cakes for an appetizer, shapewise, they looked like big, toasted marshmallows. My appetizer was interesting – seasoned salmon served under a smoke filled cloche. When the waiter lifted the cloche, the smell was amazing, and the salmon tasted good, too. For the entree, we both had surf and turf. The lobster tail was small, supposed to be 4”, but it was one of the best pieces of lobster I’ve had. The steak was good, too. We rarely order steak at any restaurant because Dave has a special seasoning he uses at home and restaurant steaks just can’t beat the flavor of Dave’s steaks. The steak we had last night was very tender, and had good flavor, but not as flavorful as Daves. For dessert, Dave had a cheese plate and I had Chantilly lace with chocolate sauce. My dessert was crème filled pastry ball shaped, with chocolate sauce poured over. It was a very good meal and we’ve made a reservation for another night.

Being a sea day, we slept in this morning. The captain said there is a possibility of seeing the northern lights tonight, so I don’t want to be too tired to stay up, just in case….

We went to a presentation on the Arctic, and the room was so cold we about froze! 

Tonight was a formal night, so we got dressed up, but our interest in getting decked out is waning. Dave hates to wear ties and I can never find comfortable dressy shoes. We did dress for dinner then came back to our room and dressed down a little before going to the production show tonight, Spotlight Bar. The guys and girls in these production shows are really talented. Some great voices and energetic dancers.

Hope to see the northern lights tonight, but it is a bit overcast ☹️.

8/24/2023 – Thursday – Trondheim is the 3rd largest city in Norway with a population of about 205,300. It also has about 40,000 students. We have  booked a short ships excursion “Nidaros Cathedral and Archbishops Palace”. I had to Google it, but Nidaros was the medieval name of Trondheim, as the city sits at the mouth of the River Nid. Thus the name, “Nidaros” Cathedral.

We board a bus and our guide gave us a tour of the city, pointing out the University, Octagonal Churches, Fortress, Shopping area, old part of town and new part of town. During the bus tour, we entered a tunnel that had a round-about! The bus driver went around a second time just so we could experience the round-about in a tunnel. 

As seems to be common in Norway, Trondheim houses and buildings are mainly wood and Trondheim has experienced many fires, and then the city is reconstructed. The city was founded in 997 by King Olav and Trondheim was the capital of Norway until 1217. Our first stop was an overlook to see the city from above. Our guide pointed out the landmarks, and we could see our ship in the distance.

View of Trondheim from overlook


Another view from overlook with our ship in the background

Our next stop was the old bridge, crossing the Nidelva River, constructed in 1681 after the 1681 fire.

Old Bridge

On one side of the river was wooden warehouses built on stilts (pilings) as a fire preventative. But being along the river, the water could be used to extinguish fires, too. On the other side of the river was where the workers and laborers lived, and they would have to cross the bridge everyday to go to work.

Left side was warehouses, right side was houses

We did not have time to wander in the area across the bridge, but our guide told us the houses have garages that are built into the hillside in what had been German bunkers during WWII. It is also the location of the Trampe bike lift. The bicycle rider puts their right foot on a footplate and leans forward, and is propelled uphill. Apparently it takes some getting used to because many people fall off. Our guide referred us to YouTube to see the bike lift in action. 

After visiting the old bridge, we walked to Nidaros Cathedral, which is adjacent to the Archbishops Palace. Nidaros Cathedral was founded in 1152 and took 230 years to complete.

The front has sculptures depicting Norweigen kings and saints. One of the statures had a pilgrim type hat and the guide said it was to pay homage to (religious) pilgrims. Some pilgrims travel from Santiago de Compostela in Spain, to Nidaros Cathedral. One statue is of St. Denis who apparently was beheaded as he is holding his head in his hands.

St. Olaf


St. Denis holding his head in his hands

Nidaros is the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world. It was the seat for the Catholic Archdiocese of Nidaros until 1537, when the Protestant reformation occurred it became the seat for the Lutheran Bishop. The interior is huge and seats about 1,850 people. I am not familiar with the mechanics of pipe organs, but there were many pipes under the beautiful rose window, and more in a transept.

Rose window with organ pipes


Zoomed in on rose window


More organ parts in transept


Inside cathedral


Another picture inside cathedral

St. Olaf is entombed in an unknown location below the cathedral. We visited the crypt, and saw where marble gravestones were smashed and then used in the walls in the 16th century.

Knights gravestone – see next picture for description


I hope this can be read

Leaving the cathedral, we visited a side building on the way to the Archbishops palace to see the Crown Jewels. The medieval regalia have been lost and Carl Johan paid for the making of the essential items himself for his coronation in 1818. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed. We saw the coronation robes, the kings crown, the queens much smaller crown, and the prince’s similarly small crown. Also the kings and queens scepter and orb. 

After seeing the Crown Jewels, we walked to the nearby Archbishops Palace. Silly me, I was expecting a Palace! Instead, this was a museum, with many artifacts from the construction and reconstruction of the cathedral and Archbishops Palace. There were displays of the many workshops belonging to the archbishop. Some of those pieces have been recovered and pieced together. During one excavation, the archbishops mint was found. It was displayed with a model so you could see what it looked like. The archbishop gained the right to strike coins for part of the 13th century and again in 1458. Signage indicated this mint was from about 1500 and is the oldest intact mint in Europe. In order to preserve the woodwork and tile, the entire workshop is kept moist. While we were there, misters came on to moisten the whole display. 

Model of mint


Mint from about 1500

We fished our visit to the cathedral and palace (?), and reboarded the bus. Our itinerary indicated we would visit the Kristiansted Fortress, but that didn’t happen.

Kristiansted Fortress from afar


Norway was invaded by Sweden in 1718 and the fortress played a crucial role in repelling the Swedish forces. Apparently Norwegians still hold a grudge against Sweden, as our guide said when they play soccer, they have to beat Sweden.


8/23/2023 – Wednesday – We booked an excursion in Andalsnes with a local company, Norway Excursions AS. One of the benefits is that it didn’t start until noon! We met at the visitors center and saw a short movie about the area. This area is important for extreme sports, and normal sports enthusiasts, too. The movie showed a couple snow skiing, some base jumpers which is no longer allowed, and mountain climbers on a rock on top of a peak. Also showed a little story about a troll: A camper was awakened by a large noise and went to explore. She saw little fairies flying around and then saw a huge troll. The troll lifted a whole tree to clear a path for her. Then the sun was rising, and the troll turned into stone because they only go out at night. If they are out in the daylight, they turn to stone, and that’s how all the mountains in this area was formed! It seems this area of Norway is “Troll crazy” and we see Troll statues and dolls everywhere.

Troll selling ice cream


Three headed troll


Grandma Troll riding her motorcycle

After the movie we were loaded on two buses to be taken to the Troll Road (Trollstigen).

Beware of Trolls! Road sign

On the drive, our guide pointed out 3 mountain peaks and said their names were The King, The Queen and The Bishop. We had photo stop before heading up to admire the Stigfossen waterfall which has a vertical drop of 590 feet.

Stigfossen Waterfall


Another picture of Stigfossen Waterfall!

The Troll Road is one of the most visited roads in Norway. There are 11 hairpin bends, (each bend has its own name, which are long Norweigen names so I didn’t catch them) leading up to the summit which is 2,815 feet above sea level. The Troll Road is very narrow, built in 1936, and the bus drivers must have nerves of steel. As Dave said, the road was not made for the huge tour buses, but they go up and down all day long during the summer months. It is really exciting when the bus meets a camper, or an idiot driver. The bus drivers seem to know how to pass each other, but the other drivers have no clue.  At the top there is a 10 minute walk to get to a platform at 2,625 feet that hangs over the side of the mountain, but has really nice views. It almost looks like an airplane.

This is the platform at the top of the mountain


Zoomed in view of platform

A little frustrating as we only had 30 minutes at the top. We literally had only enough time to walk to the platform, take a few pictures, walk back to the parking lot, make a quick pit stop and get back on the bus. It would have been nice if we could have had a snack and visited the gift shop, but that didn’t happen.

Partial view of Troll Road from the platform


Selfie on top of mountain with Troll Road in the background

The bus took us back down the Troll Road. Before the trip I was concerned I’d get car sick, because of the hairpin bends in the road, but I didn’t! When we got to the bottom of the Troll Road, the bus took us to see the Troll Wall (Trollveggen). The Troll Wall is the tallest vertical rock face in Europe, about 3,600 feet tall. At its steepest point, the summit ridge hangs over the base of the wall by 160 feet. This is where many base jumpers jumped, and many lost their lives, which is why it is now illegal. 

Troll Wall



Better picture of Troll Wall that I downloaded from internet 😳


Can you see the rocks along the side of the road in the picture above? Our guide told us there is a rock along the road to memorialize camper vans that crashed along the Troll Road (she was kidding of course).

Supposedly rubbing a Troll’s nose will bring good luck! I tried..we’ll see what happens!


We pretty much lucked out with the weather today. Apparently the Troll Road and Troll Wall are frequently covered in fog, or it is pouring down rain. We did have some misting, but no rain really until after the tour ended. There was some fog, but I was satisfied with what we could see.

8/22/2023 – Tuesday – Today our port call was Flam, Norway. It is a tiny village with a population of 450 people, but they have over 1 million visitors a year. It is down a fjord, seems remote to us, but it is a beautiful setting.

Flam! From our stateroom.


View from the ship, just to the left of the above photo

So far our weather has been very nice. In the mornings we start out with jackets, but by afternoon, jackets aren’t needed. We did have a few sprinkles of rain today, but more of a light mist than anything. 

While the scenery is beautiful, we were disappointed in our tour today. We started out on a bus,  driving through one of Norways longest traffic tunnels, and drove maybe 20 minutes to Gudvangen, which has a Viking village. We arrived about 9:00 am, but the Viking Village didn’t open until 10:00. Gudvangen is located at the end of the Nærøyfjord (fjord) which is 11 miles long and only 1600 feet wide in spots.

Nærøyfjord

Many of the houses in Norway have sod roofs, which according to our guide, aids in the heating and cooling.

Hotel with sod roof


Nærøyfjord Is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is probably why we stopped here, and also as a bathroom break. We reboarded the bus and drove awhile longer and stopped at Tvindefossen Waterfall to take pictures. It is a pretty sight with the water falling 500 feet.

Tvindefossen Waterfall


We continued to Voss, which is a bit larger town. On our drive the scenery was beautiful with many smaller waterfalls (or falling water streams?), sheer rock faces on mountains, green valleys with farm houses tucked here and there.

We saw lots of what our guide called Troll Marshmallows! Like Iceland, Trolls seem to be very popular in Norway, too. 

Troll Marshmallows

Troll marshmallows are grasses, maybe similar to hay, that are encapsulated in white wrapping and then used as animal feed in the winter. I like the name Troll Marshmallows!

Both our guides yesterday and today mentioned how most of their cars were electric. Dave mentioned to me how odd it is that everything uses electric as opposed to gas or oil, yet one of their biggest exports is oil, and we’ve seen some oil platforms that are huge. We saw a gas station and I was calculating the price of gas. I asked our guide if the price was for a liter, and first she asked me to repeat the question, and then said she didn’t know (but someone else did). So the price of gas is about $7.75 per gallon! 

We arrived in Voss and had about 1.5 hours free time. The population of Voss is around 16,000. Our guide said if you can’t find what you’re looking for in Voss, then you don’t need it! I guess this was planned to give us some shopping time and maybe to grab a snack. We did buy a snack here and mostly just walked around. Voss was bombed during WWII, and the only buildings left standing were the church, originally built in 1277, and the Fleischers Hotel.

Fleischers Hotel

The church was closed so we could not go inside, but we walked around the churchyard. 

Church in Voss from 1277

We met up with our group at the train station, and we are taking two trains back to the ship. The first train goes from Voss to Myrdal, and was a regularly scheduled train. The second train was the Flambama Scenic Railway and went from Myrdal to Flam where our ship was docked. 

Map of the scenic train route from Myrdal to Flam

The train takes about 1 hour to travel 12.5 miles, passing through 20 tunnels totaling 3.75 miles. We were traveling downhill as Myrdal is at 2,840 feet above sea level and Flam is only 6 feet above sea level. Inside one of the tunnels, the train makes a 180° turn (inside a mountain!). We made a photo stop at the 280 foot Kjosfossen Waterfall and everyone on the train was able to get off the train to see the waterfall and take pictures. There was a woman with a portable boombox up on some ruins doing an artistic dance and playing music when we stopped at the waterfall. She was not doing it for donations, as she was some distance away from the stopped train. She was just expressing herself.

Kjosfossen Waterfall

We arrived in Flam and exited the train to huge crowds of people who I assume were waiting to board the train. 

Back in our stateroom, we were sitting on our HUGE balcony 😁, and I was writing this blog. The sun was so hot my iPad shut down and gave me a message that I had to wait to use my iPad until it cooled down!

We had dinner in the Reserve dining area again. They had a pork dish that they called smoked pork. I was thinking about ordering it, but decided on haddock. Since I asked about the pork, the waiter brought me a piece…it was ham!

After dinner instead of going to the Princess Theater, we went to the Vista Lounge to hear Foggie Flax again! The Vista lounge was packed and we had to find folks to let us share their table! He is really good! I’m wondering if anyone went to the Princess theater to see the magician tonight!


8/21/2023 – Monday -Bergen, Norway: We booked a Ship Excursion, as we have scheduled for most ports this trip. We especially liked the start time of 1:00PM 😁. Bergen is the second largest city in Norway, after Oslo, with a population of about 290,000. Our first stop was the Gamle Museum, which is an open air museum. It is a collection of 55 old houses which were threatened with being torn down, most of which originally were in the center of Bergen. It looks like a small town, and is built to resemble what Bergen looked like in the mid 1800’s. Bergen’s house were primarily made of wood and therefore susceptible to fires. The museum is normally closed on Mondays, but was opened for us. Of the 55 houses, 5 of the houses were open for us to enter and explore. We saw the Baker’s house, the Sea Captain’s house, the Barber’s house, The Dentists house (which also hosed the umbrella merchant, and the surgeon), and the House of Craft and Trade which was the printer, bookbinder and photographer.  The property was originally owned from 1784 to 1993 by a family that built a shipyard, a summerhouse, and later a park in the form of an English garden. A few of the houses are still private residences! I tried to get more information from our guide about that, but she didn’t seem to know the circumstances. 

Street view


Dentist Office


Surgeons Room



Pantry


Dining Room


Printer/bookbinders house

The next stop was the Bergenhus Fortress. The oldest part dates from around 1270, it is built from stone, and in medieval times was the Royal residence. Part of the complex includes the Rosenkrantz Tower. The tower was named after governor Erik Rosenkrantz (1519-1575). The Governors quarters are at the top, but the structure also contains dungeons. It is connected to the Royal hall, known today as Haakon’s Hall. In the 12th and 13th centuries, it was the site of royal coronations and weddings. Haakon’s Hall was damaged during WWII but has been restored. Inside Haakon’s Hall is a tapestry that supposedly is also a calendar. Frankly, I found it very plain compared to other tapestry’s we have seen. 

Rosenkrantz Tower



Haakon’s Hall


Tapestry

Our next stop was in the Hanseatic part of town, who were German merchants. Our guide said they weren’t allowed to go further north, so traders from the north would come down to Bergen and would trade with merchants from the south, making Bergen a very important port with a lot of trading. We visited the Schotstuene (a reconstruction), which were assembly rooms for the German merchants (1360-1761) and apprentices.  Norway is very cold, and the German merchants and apprentices were able to get warm meals, hold parties, court proceedings, schooling, games and religious ceremonies. Our guide said if someone was being punished, they would have to pay a fine of a barrel of beer, and beer was very expensive. This complex also held apprentices, I believe they were learning about seafaring. Our guide said their lives were very difficult, and it sounded like a lot of hazing went on, which resulted in several of the boys losing their lives. These boys probably came from poverty and if they survived their apprenticeship, they could make a good living. We saw the kitchen, which was very rustic. A pit for a fire was in the middle and pots hung over the fire. The pots could be raised or lowered, depending on how much heat was required. There was very little ventilation, so this room would have been unbearably hot and smoky in the summer months. 

Furnace in one of the rooms
Kitchen area


Leaving the kitchen, we walked past a building that had a window in the floor showing a much earlier relic, maybe before 1000. 

Ancient ruins below ground level

Our last stop were the wooden buildings along the waterfront which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We passed a couple of sites along the way…

St. Mary’s Church. Unfortunately we did not get to check it out.


American Embassy 😂😂Supposedly visited by Bill Clinton because he missed American food

These buildings are Hanseatic heritage commercial buildings, established around 1350. The original buildings were destroyed by fire, but there are some stone cellars remaining that date to the 15th century. These are a combination of old buildings and reconstructions.

Look at the open door in roof, then see next picture….


Surprise! Troll….


UNESCO buildings along waterfront

Our tour was over and we returned to the ship. Spent a few minutes on our balcony enjoying the view.

Ah!


Norweigen Navy

We missed our lunch due to the timing of the tour, so we went to early dinner and the early show in the theater. The entertainer was Foggie Flax, and I was not expecting much. He was the lead singer for the Liverpool band Mercury, but he is very talented. He impersonates many famous vocalists, and entertained us tonight with covers of Roy Orbison, Joh Denver, Rod Stewart, Michael Jackson, Paul McCarthy, and more. He is also a comedian. We really enjoyed his show. 


8/20/2023 – Sunday – Sea Day so not much today, and no pictures! It’s a nice day to chill out and relax. Dave and I actually like Sea Days. Tonight is our first of three formal nights, traditionally the captains welcome, with a champagne fountain. Our first port is tomorrow, so more action. 

We had breakfast in the Reserve class dining room, and then went to a “Destination Presentation” on our first two ports: Bergen and Flam. Julio Delgado-Corredor was the presenter, and he was quite entertaining. His pointer didn’t work, so he used a mop handle to point to the screen. It was pretty obvious the pointer failure was planned as the mop was very handy. But he made the presentation fun to watch. Bergen is the second largest city in Norway with 290,000 people and Flam is very small with only 600 people! However, we keep hearing how beautiful the scenery will be. 

Next we went to an Enrichment Lecture by Phil Demeulenaere on “Norway and Denmark – The World’s Happiest Places”. He started out OK, giving some facts on Norway and Denmark, compared to the United States. At about the 15 minute mark  out of a 45 minute presentation, Phil said Norweigens do things that make themselves happy, and started talking about himself and his wife, showing slides of his family and then items in his own house which he had purchased from all over the world as this is his 99th cruise. We would have left, but there were people sitting on both sides of us we would have to have climbed over. We will not attend any more of his enrichment lectures.

We attended the Cruise Critic’s meet and greet and met some of the people we had been chatting with online. Several of the ship officers attended and discussed their responsibilities which was interesting.

We had a light lunch in the International Cafe – I had pea soup and lamb quiche and Dave had a tuna salad sandwich. Then we went to another “Destination Presentation” with Julio. He gave us an overview of Andalsnes and Trondheim, which are two more of the ports we will visit. Julio really is entertaining, and used the mop again as a pointer. At one point he could not reach what he wanted to point out, so one of the stage hands came out and lifted him up. Physically,  he looks like he has the same physique as Danny DeVito, so not very tall. He definitely keeps your attention in the presentations, although he has an accent making him, maybe, a little difficult to understand. 

Usually the “Destination Presentations” push the ship shore excursions and focus on what you see if you take a ship shore excursion. Julio has not recommended or even mentioned one ship shore excursion. He has really talked about where the ship will be docked and highlights on each port, and some information on how to reach various sights using taxis or public transportation. 

We checked out a new restaurant on Princess, Rudi’s Fresh Catch, but could not get an answer at the reservation line. So we’ll need to try again tomorrow. I’m a little concerned all the specialty restaurants will be booked since there are so many people onboard.

We heard there are 4000 passengers onboard, where capacity is 3660. “Capacity” is when there are 2 people in every stateroom, but many staterooms have sofa beds, or overhead bunks. Since we have seen a lot of kids onboard, I’m sure there are more than 2 people in a lot of staterooms.

We also checked out “Vines” which is one of the bars onboard. They had a couple of Chardonnay wines on their menu that the restaurant didn’t have last night. Dave is feeling optimistic 😁.

It is formal night, so we got into our dressier clothes and headed down to dinner about 7:00. We thought we were being really smart and would avoid a lot of people because of the Captains welcoming and Champagne waterfall. We were wrong! Apparently lots of others had the same thought. Supposedly since we have “Reserve” dining, we’re not suppose to have to wait in line….we certainly didn’t have to wait as long as the non-Reserve people, but we did have a short wait. For dinner we both had a crab cake appetizer, and a seafood platter for the entree. The seafood platter had 2 pieces of fish (salmon and ?), shrimp, and scallops on mashed potatoes with carrots and broccoli. The scallops and shrimp were very good, but the fish was dry and overcooked. We had to wait a long time for the entree, and the waiter kept coming by apologizing. 

The evening entertainment is a production show, which means lots of singers and dancers. The theater was packed! Like every seat was taken! We got there a little bit early, and still had to search for seats, and people poured in after us! The show was very good and we recognized most of the songs. Of course the costumes were beautiful, too.

Dave has started getting a Milky Way martini after the show for his bedtime beverage. But he did find some good Chardonnay, which is a good thing!

8/19/2023 – Saturday: Embarkation Day – not much today! We booked a transfer with Princess to travel  from Heathrow to the ship. The Princess transfer is less expensive than hiring a car, and more expensive than the bus, National Express. We have taken the bus before, but last year when using the National Express bus to visit Windsor, the return bus from Windsor to Heathrow never showed up. So, we are a bit soured on National Express. It takes about two hours to get from Heathrow to Southampton, and lots of traffic even on a Saturday. Our driver took us to the wrong dock in Southampton and had to back track to get to the correct dock. So that was a bit exciting. We got to the ship about 12:30 and embarkation was pretty quick. Our stateroom is M108, and is a “ Reserve Class Mini-Suite”. Reserve class means we get a special dining room. Mini-Suite means a balcony and larger stateroom.

We have a huge balcony, and can look forward, backwards and to the side (port side). Our stateroom is on top of the bridge. The bridge sticks out on the sides of the ship…kinda like a hammerhead shark. So our balcony sticks out over the side, too. I don’t know why some of the pictures are blurry ☹️. They’re fine on my camera, but when I post to this blog, some of them look blurry.

Dave on the extended part of our balcony, port side.


Looking towards starboard, from where Dave was standing in first picture. We can see towards the back of the ship if we look to the right.


Sitting area with TV – balcony door to port side.


Bedroom with window looking forward

We got settled in, unpacked, etc., and checked out a few places on the ship. By 6:00 we decided to go for a before dinner drink in the Elite Lounge, which is reserved for frequent cruisers. They serve appetizers. Dave wanted to order a Chardonnay, and was very disappointed in their selection. This is probably the straw that broke the camels back if he doesn’t like the wines. I had a glass of Prosecco, which was OK. Then we went to dinner in the Reserve Class dining room. Basically the difference is an additional entree and appetizer, and more attentive service. Dave had a pork dish with scallops, and ordered a rosé, which I think he thought was OK. I ended up drinking water 😳.

We went to two games after dinner. For the first game, they played a part of a song and then stopped. You had to guess the next line of the song. We did OK, but of course we didn’t win. The second game was like Jeopardy with categories of History, Music, Geography and Movies. We got 12 points out of 20 and felt pretty good. The winners had 17 points ☹️. But, there are usually teams that play these games, and Dave and I are a team of 2!

We went to the evening show which was “ A Tribute to Dusty Springfield” with Sammy Lomax. She did a good job and put on a good show. 

8/17/2023 -8/18/2023 Thursday/Friday: We left home for our flight to Newark, then we get a connecting flight to Heathrow. We had a 2.5 hour layover scheduled in Newark, as we like to have plenty of time between flights, just in case of delays. Good thing! Due to thunderstorms and lightening in Tampa, our flight to Newark was delayed 2 hours! Needless to say, we were concerned with making our flight from Newark to Heathrow. Fortunately, the pilot made up some time, and we actually had an hour in Newark. Considering we had to change terminals by taking a bus, we were relieved to get to our gate for Heathrow as boarding started. Whew! We had premium economy seats, which are like the old business class. We got better food and drinks than economy (supposedly), but the food was pretty awful.

We arrived at Heathrow at 8:00AM, an on time arrival. But, the UK is 5 hours ahead of Florida, so it was 3:00AM “our time”. We arrived at terminal 2 and we are staying at the Hilton at terminal 4, which is the same Hilton we stayed when we were disembarked due to COVID in 2022. We kind of remember our way around. Saturday morning we are suppose to meet our transfer from Heathrow to the ship, also in terminal 4, so very convenient.

Back to our arrival, it is a very long walk from getting off the plane to going through customs. The good news is the customs process is very easy with certain passports, including the USA, but the lines are very long. So a long walk, and a long line ☹️. Going through customs, you put your passport on a reader and stare into a screen. If the computer thinks everything matches, the gate opens and lets you into the UK. Our luggage made it to the UK! Another Yea! We were able to grab a luggage trolley, which was a good thing, as we had another long walk to the “Tube” where you can catch an underground train from terminal 2 to terminal 4. Then another long walk to the Hilton which is attached to terminal 4 by way of a very long tunnel. So we landed at 8:00AM, and got to the hotel about 9:45AM. So even though it’s an airport hotel, it is a bit of a process.

Good news! They have a room ready and we checked right in! With out jet lag, we just chilled for awhile, and caught a little shut eye, but not too much.

Our plan is to go to lunch at one of the same places we ate last year. It is the Blackbird Pub located at the Earls Court stop on the Piccadilly tube line. This is the area where I had my nails done last year. There are lots of shops and restaurants at this stop, and I would think it would be a great area to stay in if you were visiting London. It is not the center of town, but transportation is close, and it’s probably cheaper than central London.

Map of stops on the Piccadilly tube line

We went to Blackbird Pub and we both had mini-meat pies for lunch, served with red wine gravy and mashed potatoes. Dave had Chicken, Bacon and Leek. I had steak and mushrooms. While the restaurant was much busier than when we visited last year, we enjoyed the mini-meat pies again. I’m only posting one picture because they both looked exactly the same! Sorry that the gravy is the highlighted item and not the pie….Dave is usually my photographer, but I took this picture ☹️.


This evening we will eat at the restaurant in the Hilton, and probably crash early to try to catch up on some of that lost sleep.

Regent Seven Seas Navigator to the Amazon March 28 – April 21, 2023


April 20, 2023, Thursday: Last blog for this trip! Going home early tomorrow morning.

Late morning we anchored off of NCL’s private island, Great Stirrup Cay. It was like being at a beautiful beach resort. We were the only ship at the island, so our 490 passengers had plenty of room. NCL’s ships are 2,000 to about 4,500 passengers. We had no trouble finding a shady spot. We didn’t take our phones, so no pictures.

We attempted to go in the water, but Dave and I are wimps. After sticking our toes in, we decided it was too cold. We signed up for doing wave runners, and that was interesting. We had never been on jet skis before. It was a guided tour, so the idea was to follow the guy in the lead. I had trouble doing that because I felt it was hard to control. So I was not keeping up. One of the other tour guys came up and told me to follow him, which I did (Dave was behind me). So I followed him for a few minutes, but not at full throttle. So we stop and he tells me we have to go fast through this next area because the water is shallow and if you don’t go fast, you might get stuck. So, off we went, and now I was at full throttle! All of the sudden, the jet ski was much easier to control! I didn’t realize that it would be easier if I went faster! Initially, I was just too cautious. I really enjoyed the ride. At one point we caught up with the others, and they took our picture with a huge starfish, they had just plucked out of the water. I have not tried to go to their website to see the pictures yet, that will have to wait until we get home. I don’t think Dave is interested in riding a jet ski again, he was kind of been there done that. But now that I figured out how to drive one, I would definitely do it again.

The rest of the evening was packing, going to dinner, and listening to Tom play in the lounge.

We have really enjoyed this cruise and we are not looking forward to going home tomorrow…part of the reason is we are still living in our master bedroom. Hopefully we will get the house finished soon.

April 19, 2023, Wednesday: Today is our 38th anniversary, and it is a sea day. After 4 port days in a row, we did not set an alarm, and we slept late. We did not do much. We did do some packing, actually we did most of the packing.

We listened to two lecturers: The first was “The Disappearance of Donald Crowhurst” and the second was “ The Life and Times of an Experimental Test Pilot”.

Donald Crowhurst was in a race to circumvent the earth on a yacht, but was lying about his true position. The truth, and the loneliness got to him, and apparently he committed suicide.

My brother would have enjoyed the second lecture as it was all about this man’s flying experiences, including being in Viet Nam. This talk went on for about 1.5 hours, but this person obviously had a fabulous career with the military and flying. This talk was by a passenger, Kenny Grubs. 

We got some of our packing done and I am sorry our cruise is coming to an end. It has been fabulous.

Before dinner, we could not find a bar with music, but we went to Galileo lounge and had a drink.

Cocktails before dinner

Then to dinner. This evening, for our anniversary, we went to Prime 7. Dave had his usual, a seafood platter and I had my favorite, surf and turf. After dinner we had a serenade by the wait staff and they presented us with a chocolate dessert.

Anniversary dessert

Tomorrow we will be at a Bahamas island.

April 18, 2023, Tuesday: Today we were in San Juan, Puerto Rico. We had to go thru customs. It seems easier to get back in the USA from Mexico into Texas or Arizona that reentering on a luxury cruise ship. Anyway, they let us in. We were docked next to a Carnival ship and Dave asked why the Carnival ship didn’t have to go through immigration and the port official said it was because their cruise started and ends in the USA…duh? Our cruise is round trip from Miami.  I guess it was because we visited Brazil.

Our ship does not have a roller coaster…

The ship next to us, the Carnival Ship Mardi Gras makes our ship look like one of their tenders. So, some fun comparisons: Mardi Gras holds 6,630 passengers and has 1,745 crew. So 1 crew member for every 3.8 passengers. Navigator holds 490 passengers and has 345 crew. So 1  crew member for every 1.4 passengers. Mardi Gras is 1,130 feet long and 137 feet wide,  and Navigator is 490 feet long and 345 feet wide. The picture illustrates the difference in size!

Our stop in San Juan is brief, as all aboard is 12:30PM. We have been to San Juan before, but booked a “tour of San Juan” as it seems to visit different things than we did the last time. There are 18 people on a 25 passenger bus, so there is some extra room. Our guide is very good, and speaks English that we can understand. He is young, but knows a lot about the history of San Juan. He tells us that Columbus was here in 1493, and the first European settlements were in 1506-1508. For fortification, a wall was built around the city that was 70 feet high and 20 feet wide. He says 70% of the wall still exists. Puerto Ricans became US Citizens in 1917. The three main economic resources, in order, are Pharmaceuticals, Rum and Tourism. Regular gasoline is about $3.60/gallon.

Our first stop was the capitol building which cost $3,000,000 to build in 1929. A lot of the marble came from Alabama and Georgia.

Capitol, obviously some restoration going on with the scaffolding.

Across the street from the capitol is their war memorial and the names of all the men who died in the wars. There are 9 statues of US Presidents who visited Cuba…the last recent ones were Eisenhower, Kennedy, Gerald Ford and Obama. Interesting fact about Gerald Ford per our guide – he is the only person who served as Vice President (for one week) and President but was not elected to either office.

War memorial

After visiting the Capitol, we visited one of their many forts, San Cristobal Fort. We walked up to the top level, where there were great views, and we could even see “Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro)”, which is the fort we visited previously. San Cristobal was built after attacks by England in 1598 and Holland in 1625. One of the main features of this fortress was a water storage system. They collected rainwater and were able to store over 800,000 gallons in cisterns under the fort.

Well for drawing water from the cistern


Troops quarters
Rifles
Cannons
I am the person inside the arch to show how tall the walls are


View of El Morro from San Cristobal


Another view from San Cristobal



After our fort visit, our guide took us to one of the beaches. Tourism picked up in the 1950’s and many hotels were built. Not sure of the year, but Vanderbilt built a 100 room mansion on the beach. Our guide said Gloria Vanderbilt lived there the longest. It is now the “Vanderbilt Hotel”.

Our guide drove us back to Old San Juan, near where our ship was docked and gave us the opportunity to get off the bus in old town or he would drive us back to the ship. Dave and I got off the bus and wandered a bit. We found a statue to Christopher Columbus.

Cristopher Columbus

Dave remembered this old town area from our last visit. We got “can can” pork chops then, and some mofango. We kinda looked for the restaurant, but we agreed we just weren’t hungry. But, it was warm and we saw a place to buy a couple of expensive frozen drinks – but not as expensive as our beer in St. Barts – $20 for both, and they were very big. We ended up throwing more than 1/2 the frozen concoction into the trash….they were just too big. It started getting overcast and we felt a few drops of rain, so we went back to the ship. 

In the afternoon, we attended a lecture on Alexander Selkirk, the real Robinson Crusoe.  Alexander Selkirk was a real person marooned on an island for 4 years and 4 months. It is on his story that Robinson Crusoe is based. The speaker, James Grant-Peterkin has been very good and we have enjoyed all of his lectures.

We went to tea this afternoon and it was pie day. I had key lime, but Dave got one of his favorites- pecan. Dave has gotten to where he likes the little tea sandwiches. They are just enough to carry us over to a late dinner.

We had a “before dinner show” – Crew Capers – these folks are talented! We really enjoyed their show.

Then to dinner at Compass Rose. Dave had Beef Wellington and I had a lobster! Delicious!

After dinner we went to the production show, Tuxedo. Again, the dancers and singers did an excellent job. We passed on listening to Tom on the piano tonight. Tomorrow is a sea day, and we don’t plan on setting an alarm!


April 17, 2023, Monday: Today we are at anchor near Gustavia, St. Barthelemy, but called St. Barts or St. Barth. So we will need to take tenders to get to the town. 

Map of Gustavia

Per Regents “Passages”: St. Barts was originally inhabited by Arawak Indians; they were followed by the Caribbeans, who greeted Christopher Columbus when he arrived in 1493. He named the island for his brother, Bartolomeo. The French made initial unsuccessful attempts to settle it until some determined Huguenots from Normandy persevered. In 1784, France traded the island to Sweden and named after Swedish King Gustafson III. The Swedish king proclaimed Gustavia a duty free harbor and Gustavia was booming until 1830’s. The importance of being a free port declined and the inhabitants were living in poverty. In 1878, France offered to take the island back from Sweden. In the 1960’s, tourists found Gustavia and it has become a popular stop for private luxury yachts. Some streets still have Swedish names, but the town is very French, and French is the primary language, and Euros the primary currency. 

It is hilly, and the island is about 8 square miles. It is very high end with all the designer stores.The big ships do not stop here because the infrastructure doesn’t support the mega ships. This is our first time in St. Barts and we have scheduled a semi submersible submarine tour. It is yellow!

Yellow semi-submersible submarine

It is only a one hour tour, and while the passengers are cramped sitting below deck, the captain is above the water. The windows were pretty clear and initially visibility was good, but deteriorated during the course of our journey. We saw lots of fish, and I know one species were Sgt. Majors.

Sgt. Majors
“Big Fish”


The fish were close to a coral reef, which was the first point of interest.

Coral Reef

We also saw turtles on the bottom and stingrays. There was a (human) diver we spotted in the coral reef, too!

That is a human on the coral reef!

The next point of interest were coral gardens where they are trying to expand the coral reefs. Our guide said coral is very slow growing, one millimeter per month. These corals growing in the coral garden are about 30 years old.

Coral farm -30 years old 1 mm/month

Our last point of interest was a sunken ship. This boat, was a shrimping boat named Marignan and was sunk in a hurricane in 1995.

A bit hard to make out the ship wreck


Another picture of the shipwreck

The visibility was clouding up, so we all went topside and were served a (very small) rum punch. We did enjoy the submarine ride.

After returning to shore, Dave and I set out to explore the island. Everything is really expensive…we did not see any native crafts like on the other islands. But I did see a dress very similar to the one I bought, but I could not find the price to see whether I got a good deal or not.

The length on mine is shorter – maybe just below the knew

We did a lot of walking and saw an Anglican Church. The foundation was laid in 1853. The pine pews are original, and the small decorative bell tower still has its original shingled roof. It is the only church in St. Barts that has services in English.

Anglican Church
Inside the church


Across from the church was a huge anchor from the 18th century with “Liverpool Wood London” stamped on it. It was discovered on 1980 between St. Barts and St. Thomas.

Big Anchor!

We walked uphill to Fort Carl.

The stairway leading up to the Fort Carl site….lots more stairs than what’s shown here!

Fort Carl was built in 1789 to protect the town of Gustavia against attacks from the south. In the late 1800’s it progressively fell into a state of abandon. There is little left of the original fort, but if you can tough out the walk up, there are beautiful views from the top. We could see the beautiful turquoise water at Shell Beach below, where we would walk next. Unfortunately, we could see a lot of sargassum seaweed on Shell Beach, too. We’ve heard the sargassum seaweed is heading to Florida, too.

Shell Beach

We walked down to Shell Beach, which has a lot of shells – many coquinas, so not terribly uncomfortable to walk on. If you kept walking, it eventually becomes a sand beach. I had to put my toes in the water and Dave was enjoying the view of two female sunbathers….one was topless and the other had a thong bathing suit that totally exposed her buttocks and the front was just very small triangles covering her private parts. I hope she didn’t pay much for that bathing suit because there sure wasn’t much material! 

Toes in the water at Shell Beach

After leaving Shell Beach, we walked along the west side of the harbor to a statue garden in front of Hôtel de la Collectivité.  These statues were whimsical and most had deeper meaning than I could determine. One was an ostrich as a biplane:

Ostrich as a bi-plane

A rabbit on a pogo stick:

Rabbit on pogo stick

While there were several more, my favorite was a triceratops archaeologist, uncovering a Flintstones vehicle on a dig:

Triceratops archeologist

We were pretty hot and tired by this point and started walking back to out meeting spot to catch a tender back to the ship. We decided to stop and have one (expensive) beer at Bar De L’Oubli before boarding the ship where we could get free beers. 2 pint glasses = 26€ including tip. But the beer was cold, we got to sit down for awhile, so it was all good.

Beer break!


Getting back to the ship, we got a quick bite of lunch at the pool grill.

This evening was an Abba disco party on the pool deck. The in-house singers and dancers sang the Abba songs and led the dancing.

After the pool deck party, we showered and went to dinner at Compass Rose. I had a filet mignon and Dave had Lobster. Dave said he is becoming a lobster fan after this trip as he has been enjoying the lobster.

After dinner, we went to hear Tom in the Galileo Lounge.

Tomorrow we are in San Juan and the whole ship has to go through immigration-I’m thinking it is because it is first US (possession) port after Brazil. We are only in San Juan from 7:00AM until 12:30PM, so this will be interesting….but we are expecting a pain.

April 16, 2023, Sunday: today we are in Roseau, Dominica. Our guide said there are 70,000 inhabitants, the main language is English, and over 90% are Catholic. 

We have been here before with my brother and sister-in-law, Ray and Celeste. We did river tubing on that trip with them, which I thoroughly enjoyed. But Dave is not a water person, so we chose “Dominica Panoramic Drive by Open Safari” as our shore excursion. There were two buses, but only one tour guide (!), so she was on our bus for 1/2 of the time and on the other bus the other 1/2. We drove to Scott’s Head which is a peninsula on the south end of the Island.

Scott’s head on the peninsula

The story our guide told was that the French and British fought over the island, but both lived on the island. The French came up with a plan to take over the island. They conspired with the island next door, Martinique, which was controlled by the French. The French then invited the British to a party, and while everyone was partying, the French signaled their co-conspirators from Martinique who came to the island. They captured the British Colonel George Scott, and cut off his head. Thus, the name, Scott’s Head.

At this point of the island is where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Caribbean Sea. The Atlantic is very rough because of trade winds, and today at least, the Caribbean Sea was calm.

Scott’s head with the Atlantic on the left and the Caribbean Sea on the right

Our guide pointed out various trees and plants – most we were familiar with: coconut, sea grapes, pigmy palms, etc., and one I had not heard of, an Indian Almond. She said they pick the fruit, smash it and eat the insides.

Indian Almond
Coconut
Avocado
Resident of Scott’s Head


Our next stop was Bubble Beach.

Bubble Beach

There is a vendor here that maintains the beach and sells rum drinks and food.

Cooking some food for later visitors

The beach is unique because there are bubbles, caused by volcanic activity!

Bubbles!

The sand near the water is very hot. I tried to go in the water, but could not deal with the hot sand on my bare feet to get to the water. They did scoop up some water so we could touch it and see how warm it was. It was warm, but not as hot as the sand! I think our guide said there are 17 volcanos on the island, but only two are active. 

Don’t take off your clothes!
Bubble Beach is opposit Catholic Church, so don’t take off your clothes!

Opposite Bubble Beach is the Soufriere Catholic Church of St. Mark, which was the first Catholic Church built on the island by 4 catholic priests, who are now buried in the church. We had a look inside as services were over.

Soufriere Catholic Church of St. Mark
Inside of church


Getting back on the bus we were given a cup of cut up Island fruits to enjoy: mango, papaya, melon and pineapple. 

Then we were driven to Morne Bruce Garrison which was on a hill overlooking the bay where our ship was docked. While under British control in 1770, Captain James Bruce laid out plans for fortification of this site. Using enslaved African laborers and skilled craftsmen rented from planters to build the site. They installed 235 cannons pointing seawards waiting for the enemy. It was closed in July 1854 and most of the cannons were removed. Today is is a pleasant plateau with a nice view.

Our ship in the background

We drove to the Botanical Gardens, and one site pointed out was a school bus that was crushed by an African Baobab tree in 1979 by Hurricane David.

Squashed school bus

It was a short drive through the garden, and the other site pointed out was Jack’s Walk, a trail from the garden up to Morne Bruce Garrison. It is about .2 miles and takes about 20 minutes. Apparently lots of people hike this trail for the exercise, but not us!

We returned to the port and checked out the vendors. Dave wondered how they make any money because they all sell the same thing! 

There was one other ship in port with us today, from Marella Cruise Line which I think is an English Company. In a prior life, this ship was “Splendor of the Seas” owned by Royal Caribbean, and was the first ship Dave and I cruised on, to the Mediterranean in 2000!

Tomorrow we will be in St. Barts and there are very few excursions offered. So we chose a semi immersible submarine.


April 15, 2023, Saturday: We were in Bridgetown, Barbados today, and had a shore excursion. Barbados is 21 miles long and 7 miles wide at its widest point. It was made from coral and limestone. Most of the Caribbean islands were formed from volcanic actuvity, but our guide said there is no lava on the island. She said the population is 260,000. Our guide also told us the temperature is about the same year around. Barbados is the most English of the Caribbean islands, with afternoon tea, cricket, and driving on the left.

We had a smaller bus with about 20 people, but all the seats were not full. We had three stops. The first stop was Gun Hill Signal Station. The first mention of Gun Hill was in 1697. This was a 700 foot high vantage point used as one of 6 lookouts. Using lanterns, soldiers stationed here could communicate about approaching ships, civil disorders, storms, or other emergencies. We had wonderful, long views of the island.

As we drove down from the signal station, we passed a huge lion carved by Captain Henry Wilkinson out of one coral rock. It is 7 feet tall and 10 feet long. With the lion staring out toward the sea, its upraised left front paw resting on a large round ball. It has been thought there is another meaning for the statue – that being the power and scope of the British Empire around the globe. Our guide said the large round ball represents the world.  The sculptor was a lifelong military man having already served in at least four countries before his arrival in Barbados, so he probably had a strong loyalty to crown and empire.

The next stop was Tropical Gardens which was previously call Orchard World. Our guide walked us around the garden and pointed out many plants and trees growing there. Some were familiar to us as we have the same plants and trees in Florida, but different ones, too.

Acalypha Hispida, chenille plant, cats tail
Senna Alayna or Christmas Candle
Sansevieria, native of Africa

We saw a pond and Dave got a pictures of a Muscovy Duck and frogs.

Muscovy Duck


Frogs in back of Lily pad

At the end of our walk, we were given a rum punch drink and the opportunity to check out their gift shop. I guess I had enough rum because I bought a cute dress – probably not to wear in public – as it is a little more revealing than what I’d wear to Publix. I have “morning dresses” that I like to put on in the morning before I’m ready to get officially dressed for the day. 

Our last stop was Sunbury Plantation House and museum.

A fire in 1995 destroyed everything except the thick flint and stone walls of this 350+ year old plantation house. Most of the furniture is from the period, but not original to the house. Before we toured the house, we went to a cocktail demonstration of Mount Gay Barbados Rum which was first made in 1703. They made two different cocktails with rum and gave samples out. The drinks were very good, but they did not give out printed copies of the recipes. I think one of the recipes was 1 cup of lime juice, 2 cups of simple syrup and 3 cups of rum….but he got very generous with adding the rum, and I don’t know what kind of rum he used. Don’t try this recipe…Dave thinks there was a fourth ingredient! After the rum, we were given a tour of the house. Our guide spoke very fast, so it was hard to get many details. 

These are some of the things she told us:  There was a gorgeous vase in the front entry brought by the current owner who has only owned the house for 5 years.

One owner of the house was an optician and camera fanatic, so there was one room dedicated to optical equipment and cameras. We saw a ladies bathtub that was very shallow. No running water, so it would be filled up to the hips with water and then emptied by hand. In the master bedroom, at the foot of the bed, were his and her  “relief stations”.


Of course the plantation owners were wealthy, and the nanny had her own room.  But the children would be sent back to England to boarding school to be educated when they were 5 years old, and may not see their parents again for 10 years. There was a  mahogany dining room table from 1750 in the dining room that would seat 28 people.


Another view of first floor rooms.

After touring the house, we were given another rum punch and the opportunity to walk through their gift shop. There were 3 signs posted with more information on the house.



While driving back to the ship we saw several oil rigs! Our guide said there isn’t a refinery on the island, so the oil is shipped elsewhere to be refined.

Oil rigs!

We really enjoyed our visit to Barbados and could see coming back sometime. That was the end of our tour, so it was back to the ship. Usually there are shops or vendors in the port area, but everything was closed when we got back. 

Tonight we have reservations in Prime 7. May try to catch up with Tom on the piano after dinner.

Tomorrow our port is Dominica.

April 14, 2023, Friday: Only food pictures today – sea day! Tomorrow Barbados.

We got an extra hour of sleep as our time reverted back to Florida time. 

After breakfast we went to a lecture on the Titanic, RMS Titanic: An Engineering Wonder. The speaker, James Grant-Peterkin lives on Easter Island. The speaker gave interesting background information on White Star Line and it’s backing by JP Morgan. Another interesting tidbit was Jacob Aster was onboard. He was 54 years old, divorced and remarried to an 18 year old. High Society in the US was not accepting his new marriage very well, so he and his new wife decided to take an extended vacation in Europe. She became pregnant and they decided to return to the US, on the Titanic. He did not survive, but she did.

We have some waves, so we decided to use the treadmills after the lecture. We’re only allowed 30 minutes at a time, so after our 30 minutes we went to lunch on the pool deck where they were having a seafood festival. 

Then in the afternoon, we went to another lecture, America’s Mystery History. The lecturer, Terry Breen, is a native of the state of Washington, but currently lives in Brazil and has for many years. She discussed the various theories of where the populating Central America originally came from. She presented some evidence they may have been Celtic. There was an ancient arch where people with red hair and blue eyes were represented, and there were some ancient carvings recently discovered that were Celtic in origin.

James Grant-Peterkin and Terry Breen have been excellent. We have really enjoyed all of their presentations.

After Terry’s presentation, we went back to the treadmills for another 30 minutes!

Yesterday we were slugs, so it felt good to get some exercise in today.

We went to listen to Tom before dinner, then to Compass Rose for dinner. We both had Chateaubriand, which was delicious. Dave had a shrimp cocktail for an appetizer and I had two appetizers…escargot and Alaskan King Crab with Avocado.

Shrimp Cocktail
Escargot
Alaskan King Crab with Avocado
Chateaubriand


April 13, 2023, Thursday: Today was the second of three sea days in a row, so not as much going on. This morning after breakfast the crew had “A Country Fair” set up around, and in, the pool. Each department had a different “game” or activity and you could win tickets. Then they had a raffle and winning tickets would get a prize. While we did not actively participate, we walked around and checked out the games and watched for awhile. For example, the housekeeping department had a contest to see how fast you could put a pillowcase on a pillow. The beverage department had a ring toss with liquor bottles. The spa had a little contest to see how quickly and how neatly you could polish a fingernail. My favorite was the production show dancers were in the swimming pool doing a “ring toss” with hula hoops – trying to throw a hula hoop over their heads bobbing in the pool. I forgot to take pictures….

Later in the day we went to a lecture on the Mutiny on the Bounty. This speaker tells the rest of the story! So he told what happened to Captain Bligh…he stayed in the British Navy and eventually was made an admiral. But letting the mutineers take over his ship affected his reputation. Fletcher Christian ended up on the island Pitcairn with some natives from Tahiti, and the natives and mutineers ended up fighting and killing off each other except for two mutineers. The current population on Pitcairn are descended from the mutineers and Tahitians.

Only food pictures today….The food on Regent has been better than any other cruise ship we’ve been on…it is really phenomenal. We can have Steak, Lobster, Scallops, Lamb and fish any night! Plus more, but those are my favorites.

Tonight we had a nice dinner in Compass Rose, which is the main dining room. I had crab with caviar and Dave had a shrimp cocktail for appetizers. My entree was Sea Bass with miso, sticky rice and a side of asparagus. Dave had Caribbean seafood curry with rice. We rarely have desert, but they always serve petit fours, which we always enjoy.


Lump crab with caviar


Shrimp Cocktail


Sea Bass with Miso; sticky rice and side of asparagus
Caribbean Seafood Curry with rice

After dinner we went to the Navigator Lounge to hear Tom Santori on the piano.

We change our time tonight and go back to Eastern Daylight Savings Time, just like home! So we get an extra hour of sleep!

April 12, 2023, Wednesday: I had a very difficult time posting my blog from yesterday. So I am including two photos from Alter Do Chao of trees that we saw. The first tree caught my eye because it had very large fruits, almost as big as bowling balls! According to Google, it is a Crescentia tree. 

Crescentia Tree

The second tree is a Laburnum or Golden Rain Tree. What’s interesting is that it is native to the mountains of southern Europe from France to the Balkans. Obviously brought to Brazil by somebody! 

Laburnum or Golden Rain Tree


I am fascinated by trees, sometimes plants, that I’ve never seen before.

The morning we attended a lecture on Charles Darwin. While I do not ascribe to the theory that I have descended from an ape, the speaker also spoke about the captains of the Beagle. According to the speaker, the first captain committed suicide because he could not deal with the weather in the far southern hemisphere. The second Captain, a Fitzroy, also died rather young. However due to the native Indians confiscating one of his boats, he kidnapped 4 children hoping to make a trade. The native Indians weren’t interested, so he took the 4 children back to England. Upon arrival, one child died. He hoped he could educate the three remaining children, make them Christian’s, and then return them to South America to become missionaries to the tribes. After a year of education in England, the children were returned, but they quickly resumed their old ways as members of their Indian communities.

In the afternoon we attended a lecture on Theodore Roosevelt exhibition into the Amazon. It was very interesting and they discovered a river which is named after Theodore Roosevelt. 

We walked a little over 2 miles on the jogging track. Early evening we went to a show highlighting our favorite piano lounge performer, Tom Santori. Tom has had an interesting life, and we have enjoyed going to the Navigator lounge to listen to him in the evenings.

After Tom’s show in the theater, we went to Setti Mari for an Italian dinner. Their lasagne is delicious. I am a big fan of “Mama’s” lasagne, but I think Setti Mari’s is better. However, as the Secondi course we had Mediterranean Branzino, and it was barely OK. I’m sure it was good for others, just not to us. 

Now I am trying to stay awake for Tom’s late show in the Navigator lounge.


Tom Santori

April 11, 2023, Tuesday: we are anchored at Alter Do Chao, Brazil. Dave is not excited about getting off the ship because the first announcement made about going to the island indicated  we would have to walk through some water between getting off the tender and reaching shore. So we went to breakfast, and back to our suite for awhile. Then another announcement was made that they have put down some planking and we would no longer have to walk through water. I convinced Dave to take the tender over to the village. I will say that all the villages, and even Manaus, have been pretty run down places, with not much to see. Even yesterday after the Boi Bomba show, we wandered around the town but hardly anything was open.

Location of Alter Do Chao

Alter Do Chao is the best village we’ve visited in the Amazon, including Manaus. The problem with Manaus is safety, besides being run down. Alter Do Chao is a beach destination with nice, clean sand beaches which brings tourists to this remote village.  With much of the beaches underwater due to it being rainy season, it is their off season. Our guide in Manaus said there would only be one more cruise ship coming through the Amazon River for this season. 

Beach facilities under water in distance


The population is about 7,500, but this village seems larger and is much more interesting than the other villages where we have stopped with larger populations. It is cleaner and the buildings are in good repair for the most part. The Regent “Passages” says it is a cosmopolitan community that unites hippies, herbalists, healers, nature lovers, off duty entrepreneurs, and iguanas. 

We stopped and looked into the Catholic Church and made a donation. In 1738 a mission was established in this small village of Boraris Indians. The current building, which is the third church built on this site was started in 1876 and completed in 1896. 


Inside of Catholic Church

We saw a nice grocery store and a few of the restaurants were open.

Inside of grocery store, everything looked clean and organized

We stopped at one of the restaurants as rain was threatening and we stayed through two rain showers consuming two beers and an appetizer (about $18 including tip).

Restaurant



Bruschetta, arancini, dried fish ball

After our snack, we headed back to the ship, missing all the rain showers. We have an early departure at 3:30PM today. We have a couple of sea days heading out of the Amazon River, into the Atlantic Ocean, not reaching our next port of Barbados until  Saturday. 

Park with musicians playing


Local resident


Looking down a street in the village
Hotel

Excellent dinner at Prime 7, then back to the suite.

We have not heard the water restriction announcement for a day or two, so the crew must think we have enough water to last until the ship can take on water from the Atlantic.

April 10, 2023, Monday: The rain gods paid us back today. We were in a downpour!

The ship is anchored in the middle of the Amazon river to allow us to visit Parintins, a city on the island of Tinambarama which is an island in the middle of the Amazon River.

Parintins hosts a festival each June which is only second to Carnivale in Rio de Janeiro. The 60,000 inhabitants spend all year preparing for the Boi Bumba Festival. Boi means bull, so it is a festival about a bull. During June, the big festival is performed. Tens of thousands spectators cheer wildly for two teams that present the story behind the festival. There are two teams, red with a white bull and blue with a black bull. Each team puts on a performance regarding the story about the bull, and the winner is crowned and carries the honor for a year until the next festival. In June, 2022, the blue team won, and the blue team will present their modified show to us today. It is modified because during the normal festival, the show would last 6 hours (each team would perform for 6 hours). Today we get a one hour summary, from an online source:

If a world record exists for the most remote festival on the planet, then Parintins should win hands down. This cow town of sorts sits on an island in the Amazon River, some 1,100 kilometers (700 miles) inland from the Atlantic. Its claim to fame: the spectacular Boi Bumba festival, held over three days in June. The town’s 60,000 inhabitants spend the year preparing for the festival, building fantastic floats that depict giant pink porpoises, fierce jaguars and the like. Two rival camps, the red-colored Garantido and the blue-colored Caprichoso, compete in song and dance performances staged in a massive stadium glowing like a UFO that landed in the Amazon jungle.

The festival is based on a long-told folk tale with indigenous, African and European elements: A cowboy kills a prized bull (boi in Portuguese) for his pregnant wife, who craves ox tongue; facing death by the landowner, he is ultimately saved when a shaman brings the bull back to life. As tens of thousands of spectators cheer wildly, “Indian” maidens sing while perched high on the floats, and huge dance troupes move to the rhythms of hundreds of samba drummers. The winning team grabs bragging rights for the year. During the rest of the year, visitors are treated to samples of the big shows to come in June. 

As we leave the ship for the folkloric show, Boi Bumba, it is pouring rain. I have a rain poncho and Dave has an umbrella. It is raining so hard that we both got soaked anyway. 

We arrive at the theater, which is air conditioned, which is good because it is hot and humid here. The show is non-stop energy for a full hour with amazing props and lots of young dancers. It is loud and the dancers are non-stop. It is hard to describe a folkloric show, so I will just post some pictures.

Before the show


Hard to see, but the Shaman is in this photo






As you can see, my photographer (Dave) got pictures of all the good looking young women!

After the show, it had quit raining, and since almost the whole ship attended the folkloric show, there is a huge line for the tenders to get back to the ship. Dave and I walked around the town/village, but there really isn’t much here. Almost all the buildings need some TLC as was the situation in Manaus. We looked for a “nice” area, but did not find one. Maybe we did not walk far enough into the village. It is a larger village, not as large as Manaus, but it did have “hole-in-the-wall” stores. I would have gotten a drink somewhere, but we really didn’t see any place. 

So, we joined the line to get a tender back to the ship. A long wait, as one tender got its propellers tangled in grass, and a strong current was causing trouble for the tenders.

Finally back on the ship, we showered and went to dinner in Compass Rose. I had “pepper pot soup” and Dave had a shrimp cocktail. For an entree, we both had a Brazilian Cod dish. After dinner, we went to hear Tom at the piano. 

April 9, 2023, Easter Sunday: Happy Easter! A little disappointed that Regent only offers Catholic Mass and Jewish services. Other cruiselines do non-denominational services. Picture is of Easter decoration onboard.

We did have a good day, and I thoroughly enjoyed our shore excursion. It was billed as Swimming with Pink Dolphins. Since I had not seen them yet, this was a great opportunity. While many of Regents shore excursions are included in the fare, the Pink Dolphin excursion had a charge. 

We rode in a riverboat which held 53 passengers, but there were only 30 of us. Another riverboat with about 30 people left just before us. Just as soon as we get started, our tour guide tells us it is about a 90 minute ride to the dolphin site. We were heading west in the Rio Negro and we pass under the 4th longest bridge in Brazil at 11,795 feet.

The water is pretty smooth and it seems we are running at full power. As we settled in for a long ride, the tour guide tells us information about Manaus, Rio Negro and the Amazon. He said there is no agriculture along the Rio Negro because the water is acidic. The water looks black, but there doesn’t appear to have any sediment in it. Our guide says it is rainy season and the water has already risen quite a lot, but it will probably raise a total of 17 meters.

Houses that are flooded and the river is not done rising!

So lots of houses are built on stilts. Apparently one year, I believe he said 2021, the water rose 21 meters, which caused severe flooding. He said there are no mosquitos because of the acidity of the water – the mosquitos larva can’t exist. 

As we got close to the dolphin site, we stopped at a small village of about 500 people, Acajatura.

The boat that left before us was with the dolphins, so we needed to wait until they were finished with their dolphin visit. This village, while remote, seemed more modern than Boca Da Valeria. Acajatura has a school, a hospital, a couple of stores, etc. We peeked in a couple of shops, and walked down to their church.

Store with grocery items and hardware items


Store building, outside of above picture.. The dark line shows how high the water gets.
Houses in the village


Craft store that we visited


Brazil nut tree. It is huge! They let the pods containing the nuts fall to harvest the nuts – they do not go up in the tree to pick the pods.


Map of the village


Church in village


After our allowed time of 30 minutes, the first boat arrived and now we could go to the dolphin site. Unfortunately, the boat wouldn’t start! We were really wondering what was going to happen. They kept working on the boat and finally after about 30 minutes, they got the boat running. Whew! 

The blue dot is where Google maps shows the location of the dolphin encounter, “Recanto do Boto”

We rode another 10 minutes to the dolphin site and were given some instructions: don’t touch their blowhole, don’t touch near their mouth because they have teeth, we would have to wear life vests, we would enter the water in shifts of 10 because the number of people are limited, and it is a floating pier. 

One of my concerns was treatment of the dolphins. I refuse to do any dolphin excursions in the Caribbean because the dolphins have been captured and kept in pens. These pink dolphins are totally wild. They come to the pier because the workers feed them fish. The dolphins can come and go as they wish. Of course the dolphins like the free meal, so they come to get their fish.  The workers have names for all of the dolphins. According to Regent’s newsletter, Passages, the pink dolphins, “boto” may be pink due to blood capillaries near the surface of the skin. Passages also tells the legend about the “boto” being able to transform itself into a man, hypnotizing and seducing unsuspecting, young women. 

A pink dolphin!
Pink dolphin’s belly! That’s me in the top of the photo.


Me and a pink dolphin(with 9 of my other cruise mates)!
Another picture of me and the dolphin’s snout!



Pink dolphin and me! Great picture of dolphin coming out of the water (my photographer was Dave)


Me and pink dolphin….ok, last dolphin picture!


Dave and I were very satisfied with the treatment of these dolphins. Besides limiting the number of people in the water at one time with the dolphins, they do not do this every day. Dave did not get in the water because he was concerned about the treatment of the dolphins. Dave was my photographer and his pictures are always great! But he was fine after seeing the limits on number of people and that the dolphins were not caged and free to leave. He still didn’t get in the water, but he said he was happy with his decision. 

They did have some fish in an enclosed area. They demonstrated feeding these fish. The fish suck down the bait fish very aggressively. These are the largest fish in the Amazon, Piraracu. They dry their scales and the scales become very hard. Our tour guide gave us a couple of the dried fish scales to bring home. They are triangular, about 3” long and 2 “ wide.

A bit hard to see the Piraracu fish, but they were big!


These are two of the scales from the Piraracu fish after the scales have dried. Phone is to compare size.


The whole time we were with the dolphins, the boat captain left the engine running…and we were there a little over an hour. At least we knew the engine on the boat was running when it was time to head back to the ship. At first, the water was smooth and it was full speed ahead. But, it is rainy season, and about halfway back to the ship, we ran into rain. The water got very rough, and even though they rolled plastic down over the windows, the water would splash up and get me wet. It was a rough ride back to the ship, but we made it. 

I am extremely happy I got to see the pink dolphins. Overall, I am happy with our visit to Manaus, but even the guide today cautioned us not to wear any jewelry walking around the town. I don’t think I’d want to do an independent visit, which is sad, because Dave and I love to explore places where we have never been. 

After returning to the ship, we had some lunch in the pool grill, then relaxed for awhile. We left Manaus a little after 4:00PM. About 5:00PM, we saw the meeting of the waters again. When we were anchored at Manaus, we were on the Rio Negro. Leaving Manaus, the Rio Negro joined the Amazon River, and we were back on the Amazon. In the pictures, you can see the Rio Negro as black, and the Amazon River with a lot of sediment as brown. It takes a long distance toward the Atlantic for the water from these two river to actually merge into one. 

Amazon river on the left, Rio Negro river on the right
Another picture of the merging of the Amazon and Rio Negro.

We showered and went to dinner. Dave had a tortellini appetizer, and I had escargot. For our entrees Dave had Teriyaki Salmon and I had scallops. We rarely get desert, but they always serve petit fours which is usually enough for us. Tonight the Petit Fours was a special Easter edition. 

Our Easter dessert

We still have two more port stops on the Amazon, but so far we have not seen many bugs and have not had to deal with mosquitos. We have been amazed, but very happy with no bugs.

April 8, 2023, Saturday: Lots of pictures again, today.
The captain told us yesterday evening that we would be late getting to Manaus due to strong currents. We were expecting to arrive at 8:00AM, and we actually arrived about 9:30AM. As we sailed closer to Manaus this morning, we saw the meeting of the waters, where the black water of the Rio Negro met with the brown water of the Amazon River. The two waters do not mix for quite a distance due to differences in temperature, acidity, density and current. 

Meeting of the waters


We originally had a tour to the meeting of the waters, but after seeing this, we changed for another tour tomorrow.

Manaus is the capital of the Amazon state. There are 2,000,000 people in the middle of the rain forest, 1,000 miles from the ocean, 

We signed up for a shore excursion, The Golden Era of Manaus. Our ship is anchored in the Amazon River, so we took a tender to the port on land where we boarded buses. 

Driving into the city of Manaus, the buildings look like they are not taken care of. There is a lot of  desolation. Buildings that have been left in disrepair. Buildings are badly in need of face lifting and buildings are dirty, streets are littered, signs of homelessness. Just not an attractive city. It seems to be a city that has not recovered after the collapse of the rubber market. 

Our first stop was the opera house, Teatro Amazonas. It took 17 years to build and was finished in 1896. The theater was built in the height of the rubber boom, using European designers, decorators and even raw materials. The raw materials, including stone blocks, were brought from Europe on the rubber barons boats.

Teatro Amozonas

Our guide told us the wealthy rubber barons lived on boats in the Amazon river. They brought slaves from all over the world to gather the rubber and bring it to their ships. Then they would sail with the rubber back to their home country. This was before tires, and the rubber was used by shipbuilders to waterproof the boats. 

Ceiling
Stage



Some group presented a model of the opera house in legos.

32,000 legos

The slaves came from all over the world, not just Africa, because of the language issues. 

The indigenous Indians would collect the rubber and make it into balls weighing 50 to 60 pounds. Then the slaves would carry the rubber balls to the port to be loaded on the rubber baron boats. The slaves could not drop the rubber balls, because the rubber barons wanted them clean. Then the slaves would carry the stone blocks from the rubber baron boats up the hill to where they were building Teatro Amazonas.

The driveway was made of Brazilian rubber so the carriages carrying the rubber barons would soften the clatter of the carriages. 

There was no air conditioning at the time, and fans in the theater were too noisy. So they put the fans under the floor and cut circular holes under the seats so the air would blow up into the theater. 

There is grillwork on the windows with an A overlapping T, which is for Teatro Amazonas. 

Across from the theater is the Justice Building, which our guide called “injustice”. The statue of lady justice does not have a blindfold, and her scales are uneven. 

Justice building, or, injustice building

The homes that were originally built in Manaus were about 3 feet above street level. Between the floors and the street were small windows. Underneath the buildings was a drainage system that allowed water from rain or floods to enter the small windows of the buildings and then flow into the river. 

Our next stop was Museu Da Cidade De Manaus. The museum was originally a mansion. The first room we saw was like a large conference room with portraits of all the mayors of Manaus. 

Another room displayed a collection of plants which our guide explained to us. There were lily pads. Brazil nut pods, açaí, etc. Then he showed us a “Marketplace Display” with products made from all those plants in the Amazon. This museum also had an exhibit of the drainage system under the buildings. 

Drainage system

We got back on the bus and drove to Palacio Rio Negro, originally known as Scholz Palace. Karl Waldemar Scholz, a German exported of rubber, built this house for himself and his wife. The house is huge, and they had 22 servants, but none of the servants lived with them in the house.


Mr. Scholz

Scholz built a tower in the house so he could go up in the tower and watch birds. Due to the decay of the rubber business and World War I, the Scholz’s returned to Germany, bankrupt. His house became the Palace of Government and official residence of many governors from 1918 to 1995, when it became a Cultural Center. 

Our last stop was the market. Unfortunately we only had 20 minutes to wander the aisles. There were huge piles of shrimp, bags of Brazil nuts, and all kinds of products.

Shrimp!

I love these markets – unfortunately I rarely buy anything because I don’t need anything. The brown item is dried a fish tongue, used like sand paper! The white items on the right are fish scales from the same very large fish. They dry the scales and they become very hard.

But I still find the markets fascinating with all the products they offer. We did contribute $8 to the local economy because I bought a t-shirt. It is red, it will probably fade badly and shrink dramatically!

Market!

While exiting the bus to go back to the ship on the tenders, one lady spotted pink dolphins on the water. I was only quick enough to see a bit of tail. Supposedly the pink dolphins are everywhere, but they are elusive to me.

We had originally planned to go back into Manaus since the ship is spending the night here. But I asked the guide about walking around and he discouraged us. He said if we did, we should leave all our jewelry and our cell phones on the ship. Also, since it is Easter weekend, everything will close by 3:00PM. We decided the ship would be a much more comfortable place to be, and returned to the ship. We do have a shore excursion tomorrow morning before we leave Manaus.

Our friends Irvin and Evelyn are going caimen watching tonight….we told him we have alligators in our backyard and don’t need to see the caimen relatives.

Back on the ship, about 3:30, we grabbed a quick bite at the coffee connection and then went to tea at 4:00. Dave has found a way to enjoy the tea service – he gets a glass of Champaign! We just had a couple of little sandwiches to hold us over until dinner. Tonight there was an Amazon Buffet which was interesting. Then we went to the theater to hear an Amazonian band. Jo Panas would find them interesting. The man responsible for percussion was using various beads, a very small boat like structure, and other items for the music. We are not allowed to take pictures. The music was very soothing and we enjoyed their presentation.

Tomorrow Manaus Part II.

April 7, 2023, Good Friday:  Lots of pictures today…..

We have crossed over into the Brazilian state of Amazon. And we saw a bug this morning.

Grasshopper – our first Amazonian bug!

We really have not been bothered with bugs or mosquitoes….yet. But I did see one other bug on the ship – a dead black beetle.

The  ship dropped anchor this morning near a small Brazilian village of less than 100 inhabitants, Boca Da Valeria.

The blue dot is where we are anchored

The ship advertises it as an opportunity to glimpse the authentic, simple river life. Dave was really not interested in going ashore as we knew the locals would pose for tips and the children grab for your hands to walk you through their village. We are always a little overwhelmed by these encounters, and try to avoid them. We were planning to stay on the ship and hopefully see the pink dolphins, but with no sightings by late morning, I convinced him to take a tender over to the village. It is rainy season, which means wet and muddy, and neither of us likes to walk in the mud. This village has no tourism infrastructure, so we knew it would just be grassy paths. I suggested we go over but stay on the tender and then we’d ride back (The tenders are the lifeboats but I think they are always called tenders because they tender people from one location to another). After riding over, we saw the dock area was covered, so I convinced Dave to get off the tender and we made our way onto the grassy path. As soon as you get off the tender and out of the immediate port area, the children were lined up to grab your hands, and were insistent. But we walked past them. We saw a church and walked inside, and left a donation as they are trying to build a new church.

Church as seen from the port


Church interior

There were children all over the place with various animals – sloths (lots), parrots, parakeets, and baby caimen.

Sloth

One guy had a capybara (large rodent) on a leash. This is not him, but this is a picture from online.

If you take their picture, they expect a tip. Many people were advertising 30 minute boat rides for $5 per person. Somehow I convinced Dave to take the boat ride, which goes to the giant lily pads. The boat we chose happened to already have our friend Irvin on the boat, so it was just the three of us.

On the boat!

We saw more houses along the river, and one house had a horse. Our little boat captain took us right into the lily pads and we could see them up close.

Into the Lily pads

The lily pads had big thorns around edge.

See the thorns on the lower left

Some had big, beautiful pink flowers.

Pretty flower on lily pad

Then we cruised back to the little village.

Heading back to village with port on the right and our ship in the distance on the left

One building had a sign, “cool beer” (not cold!). Obviously they know how to appeal to tourists.

Cool Beer here!

The boat was a long boat and the captain used a stick as an oar to maneuver in shallow water.

The “oar” and “captain’s shoes”

The boat had an engine with the propeller on a long shaft, similar to the boats in Thailand.

Boat with propeller at the end of long shaft

Once back in the little village, Dave took a picture of a cute little girl with parakeets.

Little village girl with parakeets

Then we headed to the port to go back on the tender. Fortunately we were under cover because it started to pour rain! Well, it is the rainy season. While on the tender, someone noticed Dave’s Tampa Bay Ray’s hat. It turned out they live in Venice and are neighbors of fellow rowers, Denise and Phil Mannino. Getting back on the ship, the crew sat us down and put shoe covers on our shoes so we wouldn’t get the ship carpets dirty.

At the end of our visit, Dave was glad we decided to go to the village.

I will say the crew has been great, and seem to take care of the passengers much better than any other cruise we have been on. I am amazed by how many of the crew have been calling us by name for several days already. I feel like the crew actually cares about the passengers! 

We managed to walk on the jogging track for two miles, and then went to tea. Dave was willing to go because Tom was playing background music on the piano.

This evening we went to the Italian restaurant, Sette Mari for the first time. It is very popular and does not take reservations. First we were served some appetizers.

Appetizers

No pictures, but for our pasta course I had gnocchi and Dave had lasagne. For our our secondi or second course Dave had veal scaloppini and I had cioppino.

Veal Scaloppini
Cioppino

For desert, I had profiteroles, and Dave had wine.

After dinner, we went to hear Tom for awhile before bedtime. Our captain has announced we will be late getting to Manaus as the current in the river is stronger than anticipated, so we will be about 2 hours late.

One other thing that has been happening is that ever since we left St. Lucia, we have been asked to conserve water. Every day there is an announcement to conserve water. The ship is usually able to take the ocean water and filtrate it but because the Amazon river has a lot of sediment in it, they are unable to filtrate it to make it usable onboard. We were planning to let the ship do our laundry, but that is not going to happen until we are back in the Atlantic!


April 6, 2023, Thursday. Today we are visiting Santarem, Brazil, which is town of 306,500, along the Amazon River. Our speaker onboard said the Brazilian Government only considers a population a city if there are more than 3,000,000 people. We are not docked in town, but anchored in the river. So we have to take a tender, or a smaller boat, to get to shore. This is actually one of the river boats they were using to transport passengers. Dave and I rode in one of the ships tenders which are smaller than this boat.

River boats being used as tenders to take people from the ship to shore


Santarem is in the Brazil state of Para. So, while we are on the Amazon River, we are not yet in the Brazilian state of Amazon. Santarem was founded in 1661 as a Jesuit mission to the Tapajo Indians. Our tour guide today guide said the name Santarem came from Portuguese explorers, named after a city in Portugal. Their main language is Portuguese. Santarem is  where the Tapajos River joins the Amazon River. The Tapajos river is very clear and clean, accounting for over 65 miles of river beaches which is a good draw for tourism. 

Our speaker on the boat a few days ago mentioned that a group of Confederates settled in Santarem after the Civil War. Most of them or their families eventually returned to the US, but she said some have mixed with the population. Santarem is also the closest town to Fordlandia, Henry Ford’s failed experiment to get a good reliable source of rubber. 

Santarem is one of the oldest towns in the northern region of Brazil and has historical building and monuments. 

We opted for a shore excursion to Tapajos National Forest. After our tender ride from the ship to shore, we took a bus used for public transportation to the forest. The bus did not have air conditioning, but was bearable. It was an hour ride and the highways were in pretty good shape. Only once did the bus driver have to come to a quick stop when a horse decided to cross in front on the bus. The horse had a saddle and a lead, so I think he wandered off from his rider.

Our tour guide said you are only allowed in the forest with government permission. The forest has more than 1.3 million acres. 

Arriving at the entrance, a guide from the Tapajos National Forest joined us with a chain saw and a machete. We had about 3.5 more miles to drive before we reached where we were going to do a hike. The chainsaw was to clear the road in the event it was blocked by a fallen tree. He did not need to use to chain saw, but the road was blocked by a log at one point that had to be moved. The machete was used for various things on our walk. 

When the bus stopped, there was a restroom…A restroom….the men were on their own. Then we started our walk. It is not a Virgin Forest, but does have some very old trees.

Unfortunately, the guide called the trees by their Portuguese names, so most of the things we saw, I have no idea what they were. But some of the trees were obvious…like the first one. They used the machete to make a scar in the bark of the first tree, and a white substance oozed out. This was a rubber tree. I touched the white stuff that oozed out. At first it seemed very liquidy, but quickly turned into a sticky substance.

Rubber tree


We walked to another tree. Our guides bent down and it looked like they blew into the roots. This disturbed the ants living there, who came out of the bottom of the tree. These ants were huge! At least 1 inch long.

Actually we saw a lot of ants in the forest, but none were this big.

The next tree was a Kapok tree about 300 to 400 years old. The guide said there was another one deep in the forest that we would not see that was about 1000 years old.

Kapok Tree

The machete guy cut a log and banged it against the trunk of the kapok tree, and said this is how they would communicate in the forest. It was a loud, hollow sound.

Machete

We left that trail and walked to another trail that was a little distance back down the road where the bus had driven. The only way you would know this trail was there would be if you were a guide. It was here that we saw a beautiful, big, blue morpho butterfly. He was too quick for us to get a picture, but he was beautiful. His wingspan was probably 8” across.

The trail in the forest

We could hear birds and frogs, but this walk was mostly about the trees. The trees are very tall and have various ant nests built into the trees, including termites. I asked our guide if the ant nests would kill the trees, and he said no.

Termites or ant nest in tree

The next tree was a Brazil nut tree. The nuts come in a pod that looks like a softball. When you break it open, inside are maybe a dozen of the Brazil nuts shells that we would recognize. The guides gave us a sample of the nuts, which was before they were roasted, but they were very good. 

Pod of Brazil nuts


Look close to the right hand of the guide to see Brazil nuts on the ground.

One thing we saw on the floor of the Forrest was cicada tunnels or tubes. I have never seen these before, but this is what they look like in the Tapajos National Forest.

Cicada tunnel

One tree had bark that could be braided and assist in climbing a tree. Our guides succeeded in braiding the bark, but the braid failed and fell apart when they tried to demonstrate climbing trees.

Braiding bark

At another tree we’re vines that our guide demonstrated how you could swing on the vine. This tree also produced a sap that was very pleasant smelling, and little branches that could be smoked like cigarettes. 

Swinging on a vine

The bark of another tree was used to sooth sore throats. The machete was used to cut off small pieces of bark, and one lady said it reminded her  like fisherman’s friend hand lotion. 

Cutting bark used to sooth sore throats

The last tree had a big ant nest on it, and the guides let the ants crawl on them, then killed the ants, and said it was a natural mosquito repellant. It had a pleasant smell, but we had not been bothered by ants the whole walk, so don’t know if it was true. 

We boarded our buses to go back to the ship. I was hoping to see wildlife and birds, but that didn’t materialize. We did see farms alongside the road to and from the ship. They grew soybeans, and then after picking the soybeans, they would plant corn. The only animals we saw were Brahma cattle that had been brought from India because their hooves were resistant to moisture.

We arrive back at the shore to at catch our tender back to the ship. When we arrived back at the ship, Dave and I were hungry as we didn’t have lunch…neither did the other 20 people on the tour with us. So before going to our room, we stopped at the coffee connection and got some lunch meat, cheese, and in Daves case, a couple of cookies. 

After showering, we tried to go to Sette Mari, which is the Italian restaurant,  but there would have been a long wait. So we went to Compass Rose. Dave had a shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, and Wahoo for his entree. I had a crab and avocado appetizer which was delicious, a fruit salad, and a spicy shrimp entree.

After dinner we went to “The Liar’s Club” in the theater. There are four crew and they give their definitions to words you’ve never heard of. One is telling the truth and the other three are giving made up definitions. The audience is suppose to guess who is telling the truth. We have watched this on other cruises, and the definitions they come up with can be pretty funny. 

Dave went to hear Tom, and I retired to finish my blog.

Tomorrow we will be in Boca Da Valeria, which is just a small village, and no shore excursions are offered. It is here that we hope to see the pink dolphins.

April 5, 2023, Wednesday: This morning we have entered the mouth of the Amazon River. The ship stopped at a small town to pick up the pilot who will captain the boat to Manaus. In Manaus, we will pick up another pilot to captain us back to the Atlantic Ocean. The stop was at  Macapa.

Macapa

It was suppose to be at 9:00 AM, but we were stopped and the anchor was down at 8:00AM.

We went to breakfast and after breakfast we went to hear a speaker talk about the Amazon, but more in cultural, economical and political terms. These are recollections from her talk. Deforestation is a large concern, but the current president is taking steps to control the deforestation. There have been several ventures in the Amazon, some succeed and some fail. Henry Ford bought a tract of land and named the area Fordlandia. He wanted a reliable source of rubber. Unfortunately he planted the rubber trees too close and then the land flooded, so Ford’s venture failed. Another guy came in and planted trees for pulp, used the wetlands to grow rice to feed his workers, and was successful. Brazils government came in and told him he created a enterprise that was similar to those in the USA, and told him he had to pay USA wages to his workers. He could not do that, so the Brazilian government bought his enterprise for penny’s on the dollar, and this venture is still successful (to me sounded like the Brazilian government stole this company, but the speaker did not say this). Her talk was interesting, but I do question a couple of her statements. She told us about a parasitic catfish that was drawn to ammonia, so you should not urinate in the water. I googled it, and according to Wikipedia, another unreliable source, the fish exists but is not drawn to humans urinating in the water.

After the talk we went to the exercise room and used the treadmills! I realized I should be bringing my earbuds so I could listen to the TV. After exercising we ate lunch at the pool grill. Did not make it to tea today…. I thought Dave might be interested because it was called a brownie tea. Instead, we watched a presentation on Easter Island, which was discovered 301 years ago today, on April 5, 1722. It was Easter Sunday, thus the name.

It was raining in the afternoon so we went back to the treadmills and I remembered my earbuds. Today is the first day I got in my 10,000 steps!

Somehow we scored another reservation in Prime 7. We are not going to complain! The only unfortunate problem is our reservation is at 8:30, so we will miss all of the evening entertainment. We are really not complaining. The food in Compass Rose, the main dining room is excellent – much better than other cruises we have been on. Compass Rose is fine dining, and Prime 7 is more excellent dining. We can get good steaks, lamb and seafood in either. Prime 7 is just a cut above, with more attentive service. So tonight I had a crab cake for an appetizer and double cut lamb chops. Dave had a crab cake appetizer and the seafood platter again (lobster, king crab legs and a scallop). We are not scheduled to go back to Prime 7 for a few days from now.

We are still traveling on the Amazon River. We will be on the river for 7 days. We have not experienced bugs yet. We have seen clumps of vegetation floating on the river, which are results of vegetation breaking off due to strong current. 

The only wildlife we have seen were a group of snowy egrets. There are many islands in the Amazon. Tomorrow we will stop in Santarem and we have a walk scheduled in the Tapajos National Forest. More on that after we do our walk! 

Almost sunset!


April 4, 2023, Tuesday: At the Amazon talk yesterday, the speaker talked about the volume of water that the Amazon dumps into the Atlantic Ocean. This morning when we got up and looked out, the water was no longer the beautiful blue, but brown, because of the water coming into the Atlantic from the Amazon River.  And, we were about 450 to 500 miles from the mouth of the Amazon! 

It is overcast and rainy in the morning and early afternoon.

After breakfast, we went to another presentation on the Amazon. This one was about the creatures we will see from the ship, on the shore, and the walks we may take into the rain forest. 

From the ship we may see farms with Brahma cattle. These cattle were imported from India because their hooves are resistant to moisture. We will also see river boats, which sound like public transportation. People will wave down the river boat and take them to their destination – market, shopping, medical appointments, etc.

There are millions of insects! The insects will be on the ship. One of these is a moth with a 6” to 12” wingspan! There are many species of birds including Egrets, Terns, Gulls, Kingfishers, Parrots, Parakeets, Toucan, Macaw. 

Along the banks we may see tapirs and caiman.

In the river we may see floating vegetation as a result of the strong current eroding the river banks, giant water lilies that people can even stand on, river otters, many species of fish (3000 – 5000), manatees, porpoises. In one area there are pink porpoises! I am definitely hoping to see the pink porpoises. There is a lot of folklore surrounding the pink porpoises including they can disguise themselves as humans. Apparently unsuspecting pregnancies(!) are blamed on the pink porpoises. 

Along the (muddy – it’s rainy season) trails are flora and fauna. There are over 1200 species of orchids, bromeliads, philodendron, etc. Also, ants, termites, ant eater, sloth, and 23 species of primates; over 300 species of hummingbirds, spotted cats (ocelots and jaguars). 

Of course there are also piranhas, boa constrictors and anacondas. 

Obviously, lots to see! We won’t see everything, but I hope we see the pink dolphins!

After the presentation, we went to the fitness room (!) and spent 30 minutes on the treadmill. Daves knee is bothering him, but he did OK on the treadmill. 

Then we went to a presentation on Thor Heyerdahl and Kon Tiki. Apparently his theories were wrong, but the books he wrote were interesting adventure stories. 

Dave and I went to Tea Time today. It was the first time on all of our cruises that we went to Tea, as I figured Dave would not like it. But he did OK! It was perfect timing because we had a late breakfast and missed lunch. We had little bite size salmon sandwiches, turkey sandwiches, ham and cheese sandwiches and almond scones with our tea.

Our Tea time

There was a whole table of sweets which we did not take advantage of. Our little sandwiches and scones were filling. 


King Neptune and Queen Nep’tuna’ made an appearance for the equator crossing ceremony. Lots of people have not crossed the equator (polywogs) … seemed like 1/2 the ship. We are ‘shellbacks’, having crossed the equator previously. On previous crossings, the pollywogs were thrown into the swimming pool, but on Regent, they dropped a fake rat down a tube and the pollywogs were suppose to swat the rat when it cam out of the tube. As you can see from the photo, there are two young boys on the ship. They are the sons of the General Manager. We have seen them all over the ship, but they seem to be pretty well behaved. 


We went to dinner in Compass Rose. Dave had filet mignon and I had Thai barbecue pork rack. Both were very good. We have been enjoying the wines that are included. If we don’t like the wines of the evening, the sommelier is happy to find something else. 

After dinner we went to hear Tom play the piano and then we went to the evening show. It was billed as an instrumentalist, Craig Richard. I had seen him around the ship and he stood out to me because he was younger than most of the passengers and he was with a woman older than him. At the show he revealed he was traveling with his mom. Ahhhhh…it all makes sense now.

Sometime during the night we will really cross the equator and tomorrow morning when we awake, we will be at a technical stop just inside the mouth of the Amazon River. The technical stop is at Macapa, Brazil where we will pick up a river pilot who is familiar with this river that is always changing. 

We will be cruising the Amazon River all day tomorrow.

Two maps which probably won’t show up very well ☹️:



April 3, 2023, Monday: one more item for yesterday…we listened to the Speaker Series which was about Paul Gauguin. Interesting that he was a contemporary of Van Gogh. One of his sons, Emile, is buried in the Lemon Bay Cemetery in Englewood. He seemed to be a tortured soul, however he spread his seed very liberally including the marriage to a West Indies indigenous Indian who was 13 years old! Apparently he had several children with young girls in the West Indies. The speaker insinuated this was not unusual for the times or the geographical area.

Today the water much calmer, but still not “smooth” sailing. We went to breakfast in Compass Rose, and I had the best French toast I have ever had. I may end up ordering it every day! After breakfast we went to the library and after sitting there a few minutes, I realized the couple across from me were very sick. Dave had gone to check on something so I didn’t want to leave because he wouldn’t know where I was. After a few minutes of them coughing, they got up and left, but I’m sure they left their germs behind. The woman looked awful! Finally Dave returned and we got out of there! We decided to try to walk, and we were able to get in 2 miles.

Following this good looking guy….

The walking track is above the swimming pool and I noticed the pool was closed, with a net across the top, and workmen in the pool. The water had been drained out….just looked funny!  

Hard to see, but 2 guys working in the pool

I wanted to do more, but Daves knee was bothering him. So after our walk we had a lite lunch in the pool area.

Water, water everywhere! No land in sight.

We listened to another of the speaker series about the Amazon, and since this is a cruise to the Amazon, we found this talk very interesting. The Amazon River is 200 miles wide at the mouth, and averages 30 miles wide. There are islands in the Amazon River so despite its width, land is visible. There is a very strong current, and the topography of the river changes frequently. The Amazon is not a jungle, but is considered a rain forest. It is the largest rain forest in the world. The Amazon River is located in Brazil and the Amazon territory is larger than the continental USA. The Amazon River is the longest river in the world by 50 miles. It stars 18,363 feet above sea level in the Andes. The speaker said many rivers flow into the Amazon River. The Amazon is considered white water, but there are a lot of solids in the water so it looks brown. But if you let it settle, the solids will fall to the bottom and the water at the top will be clear. Water from the Rio Negro flows into the Amazon, and it is considered black water. Xingu river flows into the Amazon and is a clear water river. 20% of the fresh water that flows into the Atlantic Ocean is from the Amazon River. The Amazon River was found by Amerigo Vespucci in 1501. The Amazon is a dynamic river with a very strong current. 80% of our pharmaceuticals come from the Amazon, but only 20% of the plants have been identified, so there are many more possibilities. The people we will encounter are not Indians, but are called Caboclo. They are a mix of Portuguese, African and Indigenous Indian. Whew! Now you know!

Dave had requested reservations in Prime 7, but we were on a wait list. We didn’t hear anything, so we went to Compass Rose about 8:00. The restaurant manager approached us and asked if we’d like to go to Prime 7 at 8:15PM? Of course we said yes! We got almost the same meals: Dave had  a crab cake appetizer and the seafood sampler plate (lobster tail, king crab legs and a scallop). I went for the surf and turf again, except I had a goat cheese tart,which wasn’t what I expected! It seemed to be chopped mushrooms, covered with poblano peppers and goat cheese. Nothing resembled a tart. The surf and turf was very good though.

We have been getting excellent attention and service from the wine stewards and sommeliers due to an unfortunate event on Day 2. Our wine server never returned during dinner to refill my empty wine glass. On top of that, our dessert never came. We received many apologies, and as a result….it seems everyone knows our name, especially the wine servers. Our wine glasses never go empty anymore.

By the time we finished dinner, it was late, and we lose an hour tonight. So we retreated to our suite.

April 2, 2023, Sunday: We didn’t do anything today! We woke up to a ship that was rocking and rolling! Fortunately, we are located mid-ship horizontally and vertically, which is suppose to be the best spot to be in rough waters. We went to breakfast at La Veranda, which is near the top of the ship….it was really rocking up there. I got a little queasy, ate a light breakfast, and went back to our suite. Dave also got a little queasy and a headache. We have been on many, many cruises, and this is the first time either of us felt the effects of rocking and rolling. We laid low all morning, and felt much better. We went to lunch at Compass Rose, which is on deck 5. As we sat eating lunch, we had waves splashing up on the windows. We tried to take a picture, but of course it doesn’t really reflect how rough the water was. We did pick up some seasickness pills….just in case. The captain said the waves were 8 feet, but I’m sure the ones hitting the windows on deck 5 were more than 8 feet. We decided to stay in our suite for the afternoon, just to keep from falling or getting queasy again. 

Big waves!

We were suppose to have dinner with Irvin and Evelyn, but we did not hear from them, so perhaps they were laying low today, too. 

Dinner was at Compass Rose. Dave had Lobster Bisque and a salmon filet. I had chicken broth and scallops. Then back to our suite. No evening entertainment tonight.  


I am having a little trouble logging into the internet – maybe the weather is affecting the ships internet.

April 1, 2023, Saturday: This morning we were encouraged to meet Ray, the cruise director at 8:00AM on the pool deck to watch for Porofilla, which were described as sea animals that can grow to 20 feet and look like manatees. Of course we are not early risers so we did not go up to the pool deck. Upon arriving in St. Lucia, Ray made the announcement that the ship was cleared and that they got great photos of the Porofilla earlier, but there was still a pod in the bay next to the ship, port side. Dave and I were at breakfast, and looked out the windows but did not see anything. Later, after googling Porofilla, I discovered it was an April Fool’s joke, and I fell for it. 

We have not been to St. Lucia before. The islanders have two languages, English and French Creole.  The island changed hands between the French and English 14 times. It was controlled by the French 7 times and by the English 7 times. Our guide said England wanted to control the whole island, and gave France part of Canada in return – and that’s why there is a French speaking province in Canada. Don’t know if it’s true, but is interesting. 

We signed up to go to the rain forest and take the Aerial Tram tour. Our tour gathered at 11:25AM and left the port in a small bus about noon. There were 3 little buses, so about 60 people. It was a bit of a drive, about 30 minutes. The roads are not the best, bumpy, potholes, and some were one lane so you had to squeeze by oncoming traffic.

Arriving at the rainforest we were divided up in groups of 8, and awaited our turn for a tram. The vendor at the rainforest also runs a zip line, so some of the trams were used to transport people planning to zip line or returning from doing zip lines. Each tram holds 8 people and a guide.

Tram

It travels very slowly up the mountain in the rainforest, with frequent stops which allows viewing of birds and plants in the rain forest.

Tree fern which produces fiddleferns


Lesser Antillean Bullfinch is mostly black but has a small red throat patch 

Our guide was disappointed because we did not see many birds. He was trying to spot the national bird, the St. Lucia parrot. We did not see one, but they are hard to see because while they’re very colorful, their back is green. Trying to spot a green bird among the green trees is pretty difficult. At the top, the tram turns around and you head down the mountain. The views from the top were very nice, and you could see the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other side. On clear days it is possible to see the island of Martinique, but today was overcast so we couldn’t see that far. 

I think the tram ride was an hour long, and even though we didn’t see many birds, I enjoyed it and would do it again. At the end, our guide took us on a short walk through a hummingbird garden and we saw several.

Hummingbird

We also saw a lizard that looked like our anoles, and several ginger plants.

We were given a complimentary drink of lemonade or tamarind juice before boarding our little bus back to the port. 

Ficus tree arch

There was an interesting “All In” sculpture that caught my eye.

This is what I read about it:

“The “All-In” sculpture was dedicated on October 3, 2019. The sculpture commemorate the 40th anniversary of the independence of Saint Lucia. The 40′ long bronze sculpture is 12.5′ tall and 19′ wide. It was created by Saint Lucian sculptor Jallim Eudovic.

All-In has four seated figures in a line. They each hold a set of large oars are in the act of rowing. There is no boat so the figures are in full view. The blades of the oars support the sculpture. The sculpture represents Saint Lucia’s ethnic composition: The Amerindians, Europeans, Africans and East Indians all of whom arrived by boat. 

According to Jallim Eudovic: “Time has unified us all. We are no longer slaves or colonizers or indentured laborers, we are one nation and one people. We now sail back into the world in collective stride, the cargo – our culture, heritage and the mighty people who now work from the helm.”

After returning to the port, we walked through the shops and back on the boat. We were pretty hungry, so we went up to the pool deck to get some food for a late lunch. Evelyn found us and pulled up a chair…we may have become their best friends….we did commit to dinner with them tomorrow evening.

We rested and showered, and went to the Galileo Lounge to listen to some music by the Navigator orchestra until time for dinner. When we went to the Compass Rose dining room, we had to get on a wait list for a table. So we waited about 20 minutes before they came for us. There were 4 other couples waiting, too. Dinner was good, as usual. Dave had a shrimp cocktail and grouper. I had a tuna and salmon appetizer and the grouper for an entree. We both thought the grouper was delicious. After dinner, we went to a production show in the theatre. The singers and dancers performed songs and dances from around the world. We always enjoy the production shows and thought this one was very good, too, which surprised me because of it being a small ship. After the show we went to the Navigator lounge to hear Tom the piano player. Ray, the cruise director, stopped by and sang “My Way” with Tom on the piano. Tom is building up quite a following and it is getting harder to find a seat in the lounge where he is playing. Tomorrow we were suppose to go to Trinidad, but the port was cancelled, so tomorrow is the first of 3 sea days and 1 more day cruising on the Amazon River. So 4 days without setting foot on land!

March 31, 2023, Friday: Today our port of call is St. Kitts. St. Kitts was founded in 1627 but came under English control in 1727. The capital city is Basseterre and has been destroyed many times by colonial wars, fire, earthquakes, floods, riots and hurricanes.

We have been in St. Kitts twice before, and have seen most of the island. The first time we took a guided tour, which was great. The second time I had downloaded a walking tour. Both those visits were on Sundays and most of the stores and restaurants were closed. We could tell the difference in traffic today, a Friday, and everything appears to be open. We had not traveled on the St. Kitts Scenic Railway, and since it was one of the excursions offered by Regent, we thought that would be a good excursion. Our ship didn’t arrive until11:00AM, and our ship excursion did not meet until 12:15PM. At our meeting place ashore, it seemed about half the ship opted for the scenic railway tour. The tour around the island is 30 miles, 18 miles by train and the last 12 miles by bus. The train is advertised as the last railway in the West Indies. It is a narrow gauge railway built between 1912 and 1926 for hauling sugar cane. 

We boarded a small bus at the port and traveled about 1/2 hour to the train station. The train had five cars, and each car was enclosed on the first level but open air on the second level although there was a canvas cover to provide some shade. Of course we sat on the second level. The train ride was about 2 hours long, with a running commentary that was difficult to understand coming over the speakers. We were served our choice of rum drinks – pina colada, rum and Coke, rum over ice, as well as water, cokes and sprite. Our server came by several times asking if we wanted something else, so we could have drank as much as we wanted. We were also given a cookie made with sugar cane, coconut, and ginger which was interesting. The actual train ride was very bumpy and rocking. At one point Dave asked me if you could get car sick on a train. We ran into a rain shower, and while we didn’t get soaked, we did get sprinkled on. We debated trying to get down to the enclosed level, but there was no way we felt comfortable walking to the stairs and then down the stairs with the train cars  rocking and rolling. However, there were 2 guys, dressed in what I assume were native costumes, that traveled to each car and danced, looking for tips. Obviously they were used to the instability. 

I was surprised at the size of the island and as we rode, the narrator would name all the villages we were passing through, and when we crossed from the Atlantic Ocean side to the Caribbean Sea side. She also pointed out this church where an ancestor of Thomas Jefferson is buried.


The Atlantic is always much rougher. We saw lots of animals: goats, pigs, cows, and a green monkey, originally brought to the island by the French.


We wondered about the track maintenance, especially as we crossed 4 bridges!

There was a little maintenance vehicle that stayed a distance in front of the train which I assume was to check the tracks and make sure there were no issues. We made it to the ending train station safely. Not sure I would recommend doing this train ride – it was pretty rough. 

When we returned to the port area, we wandered around a little. But recognizing the places we saw in March, 2022 on our self guided walking tour, we decided to go back to the ship about 4:00PM. We’ve decided if we ever come back to St. Kitts, we will try to visit it’s sister island, Nevis.

Our Ship

We went to Prime 7 for dinner, which is the only restaurant onboard that requires a reservation. Dave had a crab cake appetizer and the seafood platter (lobster, scallop, crab claw) for his entree. I had a scallop with pork belly for my appetizer and surf and turf for my entree. We shared a popcorn sundae for dessert. People raved about the popcorn sundae on the cruise critic message board, so I had to try it. The meal was excellent. We really think the food onboard is the best we’ve had on any cruise.

After dinner we were entertained in the theatre by a comedian, Darrel Joyce, then back to our suite.

March 30, 2023, Thursday: Another sea day. Dave and I have been in the Caribbean on cruises many times, but the water on this cruise has been the most beautiful blue I have ever seen. It is a dark blue, maybe cobalt blue. I tried to take a picture, but the picture just doesn’t reflect the beautiful color that I see in person.

Deep Blue Sea

This morning we attended a lecture on the Caribbean beginnings. The islands were originally formed by volcanos and inhabited by people from central and South America. When the Portuguese and Spanish explorers found the islands, they determined that they could raise various crops and began bringing slaves from Africa to do the work. 

We had lunch in La Veranda and then went to a documentary movie about the Amazon, “Mythical Roads – The Amazon”. I had good intentions to walk for some exercise, but by the time the movie was over, my good intentions had faded away. Dave has been having some knee issues, and said he was going to rest his knee today to be ready for out first port of call tomorrow, St. Kitts.

Regent does a “Block Party” where everyone grabs a glass and comes out of their suite and meets their neighbors. Crew is in the hallway with wine and hors d’oeuvres, and the captain and cruise director walks by to say hello. Tom, the piano player, came by with his guitar and sang “Red Red Wine”. We met some of our neighbors and it was a fun event. Afterwards we went to the Stars Lounge to listen to Tom play the piano before dinner. A couple from New Jersey that we met on the first day, Irvin and Evelyn, joined us. They are a bit of a hoot, but very nice and friendly. 

We had a great dinner in Compass Rose. Dave had schezuan beef stir fry and I had scallops with a pumpkin purée. The evening show was the violin virtuoso again, and Dave had no interest in the violin virtuoso, so we went back to our suite.  

We had a letter in our suite that the ship is skipping a port due to timing of the tides in the Amazon River. So we will not be going to Trinidad, but will have another sea day. Dave and I like sea days, but we’re a little disappointed because we have not been to Trinidad.


March 29, 2023, Wednesday: Today is a sea day, so we participated in activities onboard. We went to a film on the Caribbean ports we will be visiting, which included some ports we won’t be visiting! We also went to hear a speaker talk about Christopher Columbus and his four trips to include Caribbean islands, Cuba and Central America….but never North America. He thought he has reached Asia not realizing the American continent was blocking his way. 

We found time in the afternoon to do a 2 mile walk on the  pool deck.

We went to the Captains Welcome event. (Selfie below of us dressed for Captains Welcome) After introducing the department heads, the cruise director, Ray Solaire, gave a performance. Ray said his first cruise ship gig was on the QEII in 1969…so we figure he has to be 70+. His voice is amazing and he gave a great performance. One of his talents is being a ventriloquist, and he would throw his voice to dummies. He was quite good. Dinner was rib eye steak for Dave and lobster for me. After dinner we went to the Navigator lounge to hear the piano player Tom Sartorial. We have been enjoying his music. We skipped the late show which was billed as a violin virtuoso, and headed to bed.


March 28, 2023 – Tuesday: We rented a car to drive to Miami. We took our luggage to the ship and then returned the car at the Miami airport. We got a taxi at the airport to take us to the ship. It was a bit interesting because Dave thought the taxi missed a turn and misdirected the driver. We ended up going city streets to the port instead of the highway. We arrived at the port, they checked our documents, embarkation was quick and we boarded the ship about 1:30PM.

It is the smallest ship we have been on. The ship had an interesting beginning as it was built in what was Leningrad, Russia as a research vessel in 1991. Due to the collapse of the Soviet Block it was never totally fitted with satellite equipment. The ship was sold and eventually christened as the Seven Seas Navigator in 1999 in Ft. Lauderdale. It has been beautifully renovated, with its latest renovation in 2016. It has 13 decks, 560 feet long and 81 feet wide, a crew of 360 and 490 passengers.

After going to our muster station, we were able to go to our “suite”. All the staterooms on this ships are suites. Our suite has a nice size bathroom with a bathtub and a separate shower, we have a walk-in closet, and a seating area with a full size sofa. 

There are three restaurants, but only one requires reservations, Prime 7. Before the cruise, we were only allowed to make one reservation at Prime 7, but once onboard, we were able to make a second reservation for our anniversary. 

We had lunch in their “buffet”, La Veranda. You serve yourself, but are seated at white tablecloth tables and have attentive servers getting your beverages. We explored the ship after lunch and even “visited” the exercise room. By that time our luggage had been delivered and so we spent the rest of the afternoon unpacking and getting settled in our suite. 

Dinner was in Compass Rose, and we were impressed with how extensive the menu was. I had a red beet carpaccio for an appetizer; and lamb chops, spinach and asparagus for my entree. Dave had a Caesar Salad, Swordfish and we shared the vegetables. We generally skip dessert. The meal was very good and based on this first evening, we will be very happy dining in the main dining room, Compass Rose.

After dinner we stopped in a lounge to hear a piano player and then went to the theatre to see a movie on the Amazon. The movie was okay, but a bit too long and several people fell asleep including a man on my right, and Dave who was on my left. 

Dave on our balcony
Our spacious bathroom
Our suite view 1
Our suite view 2

The next two days are sea days, so we will be enjoying the activities onboard.

Our Itinerary:

Tuesday, March 28 Miami, FL5:00pm
Wednesday, March 29 At Sea
Thursday, March 30 At Sea
Friday, March 31 St. Kitts10:00am6:00pm
Saturday, April 1 St. Lucia8:00am5:00pm
Sunday, April 2 Trinidad8:00am4:00pm
Monday, April 3 At Sea
Tuesday, April 4 At Sea
Wednesday, April 5 Amazon River (Cruising)
Thursday, April 6 Santarem, Brazil10:00am6:00pm
Friday, April 7 Boca da Valeria, Brazil7:00am2:00pm
Saturday, April 8 Manaus, Brazil8:00am
Sunday, April 9 Manaus, Brazil4:00pm
Monday, April 10 Parintins, Brazil11:00am7:00pm
Tuesday, April 11 Alter do Chao, Brazil8:00am4:00pm
Wednesday, April 12 Amazon River (Cruising)
Thursday, April 13 At Sea
Friday, April 14 At Sea
Saturday, April 15 Barbados10:00am7:00pm
Sunday, April 16 Dominica8:00am6:00pm
Monday, April 17 St. Barts8:00am6:00pm
Tuesday, April 18 San Juan, Puerto Rico7:00am2:00pm
Wednesday, April 19 At Sea
Thursday, April 20 Great Stirrup Cay, Bahamas11:00am7:00pm
Friday, April 21 Miami, FL6:00am

Christmas Markets Cruise 2022

We leave for our Christmas Markets cruise on November 30, 2022 and arrive in Basel, Switzerland on 12/1/2022. We will be in Basel for 2 nights, visiting their city and Christmas markets. We will board our river cruise on 12/3/2022 and this is our itinerary:

12/3/2022 Embark Avalon Imagery II in Basel, Switzerland.

12/4/2022 Breisach, Germany (Black Forest with Cuckoo Clock workshop)

12/5/2022 Strasbourg, France (visit LaPetite France district and excursion into Alsace Countryside with wine tasting)

12/6/2022 Speyer, Germany (excursion to Heidelberg, Germany, visit Heidelberg Castle)

12/7/2022 Frankfurt, Germany (excursion to Rudesheim, Germany

12/8/2022 Main River Village (Wertheim guided walk and tasting)

12/9/2022 Wurzburg, Germany (Wonders of Wurzburg and Rothen urg, Jewel of the Middle Ages)

12/10/2022 Bamberg, Germany (Wonders of Bamberg)

12/11/2022 Nuremberg, Germany (Splendors of Nuremberg)

12/12/2022 Fly home from Nuremburg, Germany

Merry Christmas!

December 11, 2022: This is our last stop for the Christmas markets. We are in Nuremberg, Germany. When we got up this morning and opened the curtains, we saw SNOW!

This morning we had a choice of included tours visiting the Nazi Rally Grounds or a panoramic drive, with a short walking tour, ending at the Christmas market. We have been to Nuremberg before, and toured the Nazi sights, so we opted for the tour ending at the Christmas markets. 

On our drive, the guide noted more than 75% of Nuremburg was destroyed in WWII by allied bombing. In the following 20 years or so, much of the old city is rebuilt. 

Nuremburg was first mentioned in 1050, although a fortress had been started about 50 years earlier. We visited the castle grounds and saw the first tower built.

First tower built

The castle is considered one of Europes most formidable medieval fortifications.

Castle

On one of the castle terraces was an overlook, giving us a view of the city as well as one half-timbered house that survived the bombing.


Napoleon had this deep well dug and it still supplies fresh water.

Napoleon also established using one currency for Germany. Previously each little German state had their own currency, and there were many.

Grainery building in front of old tower. In the bottom was stables.

A 13th century city gate with a large tower. Our guide pointed out this area as they were protesting the World Cup. 

13th century tower and city gate


Same 13th century gate, slightly different view.

The city of Nuremburg packed up all their treasures and stored them in this bunker during the war. Supposedly George Clooney made a reference to this bunker in the movie The Monuments Men. 

We did not enter any buildings or churches on our walk, but we walked past St. Sebaldus Church, a medieval church. Established in 1225, it is named after an 8th century hermit and missionary. St. Sebaldus is the patron Saint of Nuremberg. It has been a Lutheran Church since the Reformation. In 1525, the city accepted the teachings of Martin Luther and became Protestant. Today, Nuremburg is about 1/3 Protestant, 1/3 Catholic, and 1/3 other religions or agnostic.

The beginning of the Christmas market! Remember, we are here on a Sunday morning about 10:15 am (one of the reasons I didn’t feel comfortable entering any of the churches, although none of them that we saw had the appearance of a service going on. Our guide told us the Nuremburg Christmas market does not have any music playing. Occasionally, a school or church group will come and sing a few carols. 

We entered the market right by the “Schoner Brunnen” which is a 14th century fountain. It was built in 1385, about 62 feet high, and very attractive.

This is a fountain!

At the other end of the plaza was The Church of Our Lady. It was built between 1352 and 1362. I thought it was a glockenspiel, but could not get a clear answer. I think maybe the figures below the clock are out all the time. 

Couple more pictures of the Christmas market.

Christmas Market!
Christmas Market!

We got a Nuremburg sausage sandwich. It is 3 smaller sausages on a bun, with mustard. We were warned that putting ketchup on them was a no-no. And, of course we got our gluhwein.

our last Gluhwein ☹️

We had the option of coming back to the boat, having lunch, and going back out to the Christmas market. But, we felt we saw what we wanted to see, and we got our gluhwein, so we went back to the boat for lunch, and spent  the afternoon packing and resting up. 

This will be my last post for our Christmas Market cruise, or “gluhwein journey tasting trip”. We will get up very early Monday morning (will still be Sunday in Englewood), and start our long journey home. If all goes as planned, we will fly from Nuremberg to Frankfurt, Frankfurt to Chicago (!), and Chicago to Tampa, then drive 100 miles to Englewood. 

December 10, 2022:  We had a restful morning. We have found it is hard to get up, eat breakfast and be ready for a tour by 8:30am or even 9:00am every morning. We are happy that Avalon gave us two morning this cruise where we could sleep a little longer. We bought pastries – a chocolate covered doughnut and an Apple strudel pastry in Rothenburg- so we didn’t even have to go to the restaurant for breakfast this morning! There is a lounge with a coffee machine (great machine, makes regular coffee, decaf, cappuccino, decaf cappuccino, latte macchiato, hot water, hot milk , and hot chocolate). The coffee is really good. Must be like a Keurig, but I just have to push a button for what I want and out comes the beverage! So I got my coffee and we had our pastries in our room. We like our room…it is bigger than other river cruises we have been on at 200 sq.ft. This summer, on Viking, our room was 150 sq. ft., and it felt really small. We don’t have a balcony, but one full wall of windows with a door that slides open. Our room has a beautiful live orchid in bloom 😁. Haven’t seen that before!

We were supposed to have a talk on Christmas traditions at 10:00am, and so we were in the lounge by 10:00, only to find out that we were slow going through a lock or something, so the talk would be at 11:00 (we could have slept an extra hour!). As we sat sat in the lounge waiting for the presentation, it started to snow! This is the first snow we have seen in years!

Hopefully you can see the little tiny white specks….it’s SNOW!

The talk was very interesting and some of the information was surprising. These are some details the speaker shared – don’t know if they’re true or not. For example, Santa’s suit did not become red and white until his image was picked up by Coke in the 1930’s as part of an advertising campaign. Also, the legend behind the pickle ornament was actually started in the states by Woolworth. Woolworth had imported a bunch of glass ornaments of all kinds of fruit. All the fruit ornaments sold except the pickle. So Woolworth marketing started the legend about the pickle ornament being hidden on Christmas trees in Germany. Then tourists came to Germany looking for pickle ornaments, and the Germans didn’t know why they were in such demand by the tourists. However, as any true merchant, they started making pickle ornaments! The beautiful woman with blond hair and a white dress that we frequently see was started by Hitler because he wanted to take religion out of the holiday.

This afternoon, we were in Bamberg. Bamberg is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We were very disappointed in our guide. Upon arriving in Bamberg, we had a walking tour. Bamberg is known for it’s nativity scenes, and supposedly there are 34 nativity scenes. The guide said she was first taking us to the most beautiful nativity scene at St Stephens, a Protestant church. When we walked in, there were children performing on musical instruments – one at a time. But we felt like we were intruding. The guide said it was a baptism…maybe, but I think it was more like a childrens recital. The first child we heard was playing a violin (Mary had a little lamb, I think). Next was a little boy playing an accordion. It was not formal at all, and the children went up, one at a time, to play their piece. The children were precious. The nativity was OK, but certainly not the most beautiful I’d ever seen. I think the connection was a special artist had made the figures in the nativity.

First Nativity
Little boy playing accordion

Our guide proceeded to tell us her interpretation of the nativity, and actually religion: Mary represented the earth and Joseph represented God and all of creation. She went on and on…I tuned her out. Obviously, not my view of religion, and inappropriate for a guide.

Then she took us to the “Upper Parish” church, or Parish Church of Our Lady.

Interior of the second church, the Upper Parish Church

Apparently, they move the figurines around as Christmas approaches, and today the scene represented Mary and Joseph looking for a place to stay. The whole plateau represented a full scene with some ladies working on linens and men sitting around and a beggar, etc. I thought this nativity was much better than the first.


There is always a cat in this nativity scene, and everyone tries to find the cat. He is here with the beggar.

The third church we went to was the Bamberg Cathedral.

Frontal view of Bamberg Cathedral


Our guide showed us the Cathedral rose garden and what she called the residence area which was a large courtyard. When we entered the cathedral, an orchestra was playing and a soloist was singing. Apparently the bishop is leaving and the music was a rehearsal for the bishops good bye service which will be held tomorrow. This was a huge Church, and contained the tombs of an emperor and a pope. This church also had a nativity set up.

Third nativity scene
Orchestra

Interestingly, all the nativity scenes were indoors, where ours in the states are outdoors. These all had small figurines, where the ones in the states usually have life size figures and sometimes real people. 

After the churches, she finally led us to the Christmas market. Being a Saturday, and apparently a college town, it was packed. So much so that it was hard to walk. The did have cute booths and a merry-go-round for the kids. We literally were squeezing our way through the crowds of people – something Dave and I hate. We did find a place to get our gluhwein and we asked for their mugs. The lady told us they were in very short supply because all the tourists want them and don’t turn them back in (guilty!). We told her that’s why we wanted them and she sold us our 2 mugs of gluhwein in the red mugs! We did not see anyone else with red mugs! The other mugs, blue ones and clear ones, just say gluhwein and maybe “Christmas market” in German. Ours also have “Bamberger” imprinted  on them so we will remember where we got them. We had enough time so we got a refill before we left. 


Christmas Market merry-go-round with Santa’s
Cute vendor booth at Christmas market
Bamberg town hall
City gate that we walked through
Building decoration

As we were leaving and walking toward our bus, we saw this hotel from 1380!


December 9, 2022:  This trip has been much better than what I was expecting. It has been COLD, but we have pretty much prepared and endured the cold…low to mid 30’s. I  have really enjoyed going to all the Christmas markets. We buy  little to nothing, because we have so much stuff. Maybe I should say we have been on the Gluhwein tour. 😂😂😂

We have two tours today, so it has been a very long day. I am skipping trivia in the boat lounge in order to write my blog, and I’m more than OK with that because I am a bit tired, and I have a nice glass of wine.

Our morning tour was at 8:30am, and we are In Wurzburg. From our stateroom, we could see a huge church up on the hill, and a fortress – but we did not go to either of them.

Church on hill near Wurzburg

Fortress across Main River in Wurzburg

The big attraction, and where we are going is the baroque Bishop’s Residenz, the home to the largest known ceiling fresco.

Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside. We had to wear masks, but the funny thing is the mask mandate ends tomorrow. Our guide said they opened early specially for our tours (and a couple other companies we saw). The normal opening time was 10:00 and we were there at 9:00. Obviously, much less crowded for us to be able to enjoy this UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built between 1720 and 1744, and the interiors were completed in 1780. Unfortunately, it suffered much destruction from the bombing in WWII, but the main entry and fresco were not destroyed. Our guide told us there are some apartments today in the complex, used primarily by employees. She added that it is very difficult to heat these old apartments, which seems true by the temperatures inside that we are experiencing. After entering the Residenz, the huge ceiling fresco represents the four continents known at the time: Europe, Africa, Asia and Americas.  It was painted by an Italian painter in the late 1700’s. Looking closely, it is obvious the Italian painter was not familiar with the continents other than Europe as he drew an ostrich with oversized human looking legs, an elephant’s trunk looked more like a vacuum cleaner, and people riding on alligators and crocodiles in the new world.  The Residenz was called the largest parsonage in Europe by Napoleon. It is pretty phenomenal, and as you walk inside, you wonder how people could have occupied such a huge space. We walked through a few rooms, and they contained some of the original furniture. As I look at these rooms, with huge ceilings, it seems one of these opulent rooms could contain my whole house! Other than one up-man-ship, why in the world did they build these huge castles? Interesting to see, but the practical side of me comes out these days. Don’t be mislead, I could deal with the marble and silk fabrics….

Fountain outside Residenz

After leaving the Residenz, we walked to the main plaza and the Christmas market. It is similar to the other Christmas markets, but one difference was they had a little Ferris wheel for tots. We saw a couple of little boys riding.

The merry-go-round had a carriage and vehicles in addition to the usual horses.

We peeked inside one of the churches, which was from the 13th Century, I believe.

Our boat is docked near what is called the old bridge.

We did get our gluhwein at the Wurzburg Christmas market 😀.

After lunch, we were on an optional tour to Rothenburg, Jewel of the Middle Ages. I believe our guide told us this whole city is a UNESCO Worle Heritage site. It is a medieval city surrounded with a wall and five medieval gates.

There were lots of cobblestones, red roofed buildings, half-timbered homes and the home of Kathe Wohlfahrt. If you are not familiar with Kathe Wohlfahrt, I will just say the stores are very well known for their Christmas decorations. Since Rothenburg was the first store, now there are five in Rothenburg, but there have also been stores in every city we have visited so far. Avalon have even given us a 3% discount coupon (whoopee!). Kathe Wohlfahrt even has a Christmas museum we did not go even though Avalon gave us a free entry coupon). 

Our guide gives us a brief overview of the town, took us to an amazing overlook, and then we had about 2 hours of free time.

This is not much free time for Dave and me! We had certain things that we have been looking for, and Dave is quite the shopper! Nothing new, he always has been. We saw things at Kathe Wohlfahrt in Basel that we did not want to haul around our whole trip, so now that we are close to the end of our trip, we are looking for them more seriously! 

Unfortunately , we did not have enough time to walk on the city wall. We walked to one of the city gates and saw an interesting face.

Apparently the watchmen would pour hot oil on unwelcome visitors through the openings in this face.

Long view of gate with face

We stopped at an overlook for a beautiful view, with a little chapel.


Chapel we could see from overlook

Walking back into town, we saw a museum for criminals. This cage like apparatus was used for bakers who baked bread too light. For each 1/2 ounce missing in the bread’s weight, the cage and the baker were dipped into the water. Other craftsmen who did not carry out their business correctly were subjected to the same dunking.

The town is just so cute and decorated for Christmas. Obviously, Germans take Christmas very seriously.

Rothenburg has a glockenspiel, but it is very “subdued” At the top of each hour, the windows open to reveal two characters….and that’s it. 

We got out gluhwein, but that was a unique experience (and I forgot to get a photo). We bought our gluhwein, but it was served in cups from a prior year. To get a current year cup, we had to trade the old cups in for a new cup after we drank the wine. We played the game, we got our Rothenburg 2022 mugs, but too complicated to get a picture this time.

I was also on a mission to find some apple strudel, and to try these pastry things we’ve seen around Germany that look like baseballs. Fortunately, in Rothenburg we found some “mini” baseball things, but I haven’t tried mine yet. It looks like strips of pie crust wound into a ball shape like a ball of yarn. I’ll let you know when I eat it….tune in tomorrow!

We stayed in Rothenburg until after dark, and took a couple of pictures. It is just beautiful and I love these Christmas markets.

Pretty window
Another pretty decoration
Cute truck outside of Kathe Wohlfahrt store


Store lit up at night
Image on building lit up at night

We got back to the ship shortly before dinner time. After dinner, they were having a Christmas trivia contest. Dave and I decided to pass on the trivia.

This was actuality taken last night. I was trying to get a picture af us seeing our breath because it was so cold .

December 8, 2022: Today was pretty low key. We sailed along the Main (pronounced Mine) river this morning. There was a cookie baking demonstration which we did not attend. We were happy to get a little extra rest this morning. The boat docked in Wertheim and we had a walking tour that was included. The Christmas Markets were not open today, as it is a small town and the Christmas markets are only in operation on the weekends. I believe the guide said there are 6,500 inhabitants in the town proper and 24,000 in the surrounding area. There is a castle high up on the top of a hill, but it is just the ruins.

Castle high on hill
Castle showing terraces
This is where the governor lives today. It is on the other side of the Main River.

We did not walk up to the castle. It was built in the 1100’s and only occupied about two centuries. Wertheim is at the confluence of two rivers, the Main and the Tauber.

City gate

This was the city gate we entered through. Not sure if the red truck was for the Christmas markets or not. The city gate looks short because the city has had a lot of trouble with flooding. The rivers flood twice in Spring and twice in Fall. I believe the guide said the ground had been filled in about 6 feet, but it has only helped some with the flooding.

Leaning tower

This leaning tower was built as a watch tower. After being built, it started to lean, so they added to the top to try to counteract the leaning. It has served May purposes over the years including a gathering place for women, a student prison, and more recently it’s been used for wine tastings. Our guide said this area produces mostly red wine, which is different from all the other regions we’ve been visiting that mostly produce Riesling.

Many houses have markings on the door frames showing the depth of the water and the year of the folding. This is the first one the guide showed us. The markings are a little hard to make out, but they’re on the left door frame. I think the highest mark at the top is from 1882.


This was another building with the flood markings, close to the Tauber River on the right side of the picture. The top shows a flood of about 28 feet in 1784.


This is a pretty small town, and this picture is a street scene.

During world war II, the town encouraged its Jewish population to leave the country. All the Jews except 18 left. Those 18 were taken to concentration camps and died. The current owner of this house honored those Jews by decorating his facade with 18 stars. A mother and her children who lived in this house were among the Jews that died.

This is a 13th generation baker who gave us a sample of pretzels he made, he said they were “the best pretzels we’ve ever tasted!”. They were good.


Our guide showed us the smallest house in Wertheim. It is more narrow at the bottom than at the top because he was taxed on the size at the bottom.


We visited the Collegiate church of Wertheim which started out as a Catholic Church in the 1300’s. Martin Luther came to town and converted the prince that lived in Wertheim, and the church is now a Lutheran church. Because it’s beginnings were Catholic, Christ is shown on the cross.

The ceilings above the Chancel were decorated.


Fountain on the Main Street.


Oldest hotel in town, The Golden Eagle, which seemed to also be a restaurant.


The gate tower lit up for Christmas.

We got the most expensive cups of gluhwein, and I didn’t even take a picture. We walked around trying to find a vendor with the fancy cups each town seems to have (I’m collecting them much to Daves chagrin). We finally spotted a place, but had to go into the adjoining restaurant to get served. It was quite a process as the waitress took the cups back in the kitchen I presume to heat them up. Finally, she came back, but only charged us for the wine. I told her we wanted the cups, and a gentleman, whom I presume was the proprietor, said they didn’t sell them. I asked if we could please buy the two we had, and he charged us 20 euros for the gluhwein and cups….this is about 6 euros more than we paid anywhere else, but I got the cups!

The entertainment tonight was a woman and 2 men. They played and sang some very upbeat music…Satisfaction, YMCA, Dancing Queen…etc. I thought they did a good job and we danced a little. One interesting tidbit – they got on the boat as we went through one set of locks and got off at another set of locks!

December 7, 2022: Today we were in Rudesheim. It is a small city in Germany, but Dave said it’s Christmas Market ranked #2 of all the Christmas markets. 

We took a bus from out port near Frankfurt to Rudesheim. We were told we were going to take a chop cho train the short distance into town, but it was actually a truck line engine pulling about 6 cars. 

We had an included tour this morning, to Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Instrument Museum. It is advertised as 350 self- playing mechanical music instruments spanning 3 centuries. It was more interesting than I anticipated. The machines play many instruments automatically, and most of them would have replaced orchestras in theaters or dance halls. Many of them played music from pin holes on a roll, but others used things like pins in a drum and wax cylinders. The smallest one was like a little music box, and the proprietors are the only ones making them today. They were sold in the gift shop starting at 1,950 euros. No, we did not buy any. These are some of the mechanical instruments we heard.



This one was huge! Probably 10 feet wide. It was destined for Turkey, but never made it there. It played the typical circus song.
This one played violins as well as the piano.
This is the little music box one that sold in the gift shop starting at 1,950 euros.

We had a short time to visit the markets before our included lunch, so we wandered around a bit. The markets sold mostly food and gluhwein, but a few handicrafts and ornaments. We met up for lunch with our group. The restaurant had a band playing all kinds of music – from Christmas Caroles to Jimmy Buffett . 

The lunch was potato soup, pork, mashed potatoes, creamed cabbage and apple strudel. We cut out before the Apple strudel so we could more of the Christmas markets.

Our table at lunch


Here are some views of the Christmas markets in Rudesheim:



The streets are decorated so cute and festive!

One of the food vendors – their booths are decorated inside, outside and on top!

We saw a pen with some cute animals.

Big red hen!
Interesting chicken of some type
Big bunny!


Another big bunny!

The gluhwein place where we stopped had red and white gluhwine, and two colors of cups. We tried the white gluhwein, but decided we liked the red better. So, now we know! 

You can tell we’re in a different city because the cups are a different color!

We left Rudesheim about 2:00PM, and we were back to the boat about 3:30PM. We felt we could have easily spent another hour (or more), as the boat does not sail until 5:45pm. Don’t know why Avalon could not have given us a little more time in Rudesheim. 

Rudesheim is really a neat little town, about 1 hour away from Frankfurt. There are lots of shops and restaurants, and was a very active place when we had dinner here on our river cruise last July. 

Downtown Frankfurt from our boat – but we didn’t get to visit Frankfurt

It is really weird, but Daves iphone and my iPad think we are in Thailand! We had to reset our date and time off “automatic” and designated “Berlin” so we’d have the correct date and time! My iphone seems to be picking up the location correctly. 

December 6, 2022: Last night, our cruise director told us the legend of Sinta Claus. We were to leave our shoes outside our door with notes indicating what we were sorry for, and a wish for the future. This morning, we had a bag of cookies and candies in our shoes. It was a nice nod to an European tradition.

We are docked just outside of Speyer, which we visited in July. Speyer has a phenomenal aeronautical museum, which we have not been able to visit, Maybe a future visit to Germany. 

Today we have an all day tour to Heidelberg. It is about an hour on the bus from Speyer to Heidelberg. Our first stop is the Heidelberg Castle. Our guide was fixated on Prince Frederick and Elizabeth Stuart of London (Frederick and Elizabeth). So she spoke a lot about them.

While the castle is almost as old as the city, parts of the castle were constructed around 1300. It wasn’t until Prince Ruprecht III (1398 – 1410) that the castle was used as a regal residence. There are lots of different buildings, each of which represents a different period of German architecture. In 1764, the castle was hit by lightening leaving it uninhabitable. The citizens of Heidelberg used the castle stones to build or repair their houses.

In 1613, Prince Friedrich married Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of King James I. This was a big win for Protestantism, but while it was a political marriage, it grew into a marriage of love. Frederick and Elizabeth were only 16 years old. While on London, Frederick saw the extravagance of the English crown.  Because he loved Elizabeth, he wanted to give her in Germany as much as she left in England. On her 19th. Birthday, he gave her the Elizabethan Gate. Supposedly it was constructed overnight. It was plain on one side, but elaborately decorated on the other. He also built an English building for her and an English garden. They had 13 children and Frederick died young, at 36 years of age. Our guide said the 13th child almost became queen of England, and the current monarchy traces its roots from this 13th child of Frederick and Elizabeth.

Elizabethan Gate

We did not visit rooms inside the castle, but we saw the largest wine barrel in the world. It was built in 1751 by Prince Karl Theodor and holds 220,000 liters or 58,124 gallons of wine, there is a dance floor built on top of the wine barrel. The court jester who guarded the cask during the reign of Prince Elector Carl Philip, a Tyrolean dwarf nick-named Perkeo, was supposedly known for his ability to drink large quantities of wine. Legend has it that he died when he mistakenly drank a glass of water.


Jane on the huge wine barrel

On the terrace of the castle is the indentation of a foot. If you put your shoe in it, it means you will return to Heidelberg.

Dave in the “foot”

We had some great views of Heidelberg from the terrace.

Old bridge on background.

After the castle we got a brief tour of the town, and then left to explore on our own. Avalon had given us a voucher for a free glass of gluhwein, but the line was so long, we decided to explore first and come back later for our gluhwein. First, we went to Kathe Wohlfahrt’s store, which is a famous German store selling Christmas, and other items. Some really cute things….they also have a store in Nuremberg, so we are going to wait until then to make any purchases. 

We walked to Vetters, a restaurant which brews their own beer, and supposedly has the most alcoholic beer in the world.

Beer is brewed inside the restaurant

Our guide suggested we get a flight of beers, which is what we did. There were 4 beers on the flight. The first one was a lager, and it was very pale. The second one was a wheat beer, which was pretty good, and had a more yellow color. The third beer was their Christmas beer, and Dave and I both liked this one the best. We did not recognize any spices, it was just a good, mild flavored beer. The fourth one was their Vetters 33, which was their strongest beer. It had a very sweet flavor, and I thought it was heavy with a molasses flavor.. I like dark beers, but the molasses turned me off. So after we drank our flight of beers, Dave and I both ordered a glass of the Christmas beer. For lunch, I had sausages which came with a pretzel and mustard. I thought it was very good. Dave had pork snitzel which came with roasted potatoes and a salad. We asked if we could substitute sauerkraut for the salad, which they did. Of course, Dave didn’t want the sauerkraut, but I did, and it was good. 

After lunch, we walked back and got our free gluhwein. This was in the last Christmas market in Heidelberg. There were four Christmas markets that we saw in Heidelberg. Who knows, there may have been more. Most of the markets focused on food and drink. We visited all four as we walked back to our bus. We actually had about 3 hours of free time, but that goes very quick when you are walking through the markets.

After the last market, there was a store selling all kinds of sweets and breads. Dave and I bought some cookies and chocolates. We really are not in the market to buy much, but we enjoy looking. 

Back on the ship, we had a farewell toast to those leaving our cruise, and a gala dinner. The food is very good.

Kids ice seating in one of the Christmas Markets
Interesting vendor in one of the Christmas markets
Lion with a crown in biggest Christmas Market
One of the aristocrats that died young because of alcoholism. Note the smiling lion under him.
Inside the cathedral, these are the graves of the architects and his wife of the cathedral, and the only graves to survive destruction
Gate towers on old bridge
Jane & Dave drinking gluhwein in Heidelberg

December 5, 2022:  This morning Avalon offered an included tour to Strasbourg. When we read through the description, it was the same tour we did in July. So we decided to sleep in.

After lunch, we had an optional tour “Into the Alsace Countryside with Wine Tasting”. First we visited a small town, Barr, France and the “Lepp Leininger” winery. This location has been producing wine since 1760, as the Lepp winery. In 1911, the Leininger family bought the winery and has been producing wines since 1911. Our guide at the winery was the grandson. He was very good describing the process. They only use their own grapes for their wines and primarily produce white wine. They do make a Pinot Noir, as the only red wine. They started producing natural wines when COVID hit, and that part of their market is growing. They produce 60,000 bottles a year.

Oldest wine barrel – over 100 years old

We were given 4 wines to taste. The first was a natural wine, called “Prologue” produced in 2021. It was a dry wine, but very mild. The second wine was a Riesling produced in 2020, which was dry, but good. The third wine was a Pinot Gris produced in 2020. It was good but tasted much sweeter than the previous wines. The fourth wine was a Gewurztraminer, produced in 2018. This wine was very sweet and would be what Dave would call a dessert wine.

Winemaker preparing wines to taste
The wines we tasted

The town was very cute, but small. I think he told us the population was about 8500.

Leaving Barr, we drove to Obernai, France. This is another very cute medieval town with town walls from the 13th century. It is a picturesque town with half-timbered homes, 20 towers and 4 gates. Obernai has a small Christmas market, too, mostly with food and drink. Our guide gave us a short tour, pointing out the 13th century walls and towers, the Jewish synagogue, the tower that is left from the 13th century church, the new church, and the “Six Buckets Well”. A fountain in the center of town has a girl statue at the top, Sainte-Odile (662-720). She is the patron Saint of Alsace, France. She was born blind, but gained her sight when she was baptized at the age of 13. Our guide said the gluhwein would be white since most of the wine in France is white. However, when we walked through the market, we only saw red gluhwein. We were given a sample of gingerbread, which had a very strong ginger taste. Dave found a chocolate shop and was able to get himself some chocolate.

History of Obernai
Jewish Synagogue


Timbered buildings
More timbered buildings
And, More Gluhwein from Obernai Christmas Market!
Saint Odile statue on top of fountain
Tower from 13th century church
Storks nest on top of building
Six Buckets Well
Christmas tree at beginning of Christmas market
Shop windows fully decorated for Christmas
Merry go Round at Christmas Market

After returning to the ship, and after dinner, we had a bit of entertainment on the ship. We were all suppose to fill out a form indicating which of 10 songs would result in the most people dancing. I had #1 and #2 right, but blew it on #3. Who would have thought “The Chicken Dance” would draw the 3rd most dancers? Anyway, it was a lot of fun and drew a lot of laughs.

The Chicken Dance


December 4, 2022: This morning we opted out of the full day trip to the Black Forest because we were just there in July. Instead, we did a wine tasting. Our guide was a wine maker. He talked a lot about the different soils, and much of the land has volcanic rocks and ash from eons ago. He took us to a wine museum, the Kaiserstuhl Wine Museum, as this is a big wine region.

The museum belonged to a Church from 1315 to 1806. The area farmers brought their tithe to this building, which was one tenth of their crop. According to our guide, the people revolted because they were tithing 1/10 of their crops, but they were starving.

We tasted 4 wines, 3 white and 1 red. I did not like any of the white wines, although our guide said the 3rd white one was one of his wines, and it had won awards. The third one was the best of the 3, but still not something I would choose. The fourth wine was a red one, which he said was a Pinot Noir. Dave and I both liked this one, and Dave bought a bottle.

We went back to the boat and had lunch. It was raining and we were debating going out in the rain. Finally we decided we’d brave the rain and we walked into Breisach. The boat is docked right outside of town, so it is a short walk. 

There is a huge church up on one of the hills, so we decided to walk up to the church (ugh! Lots of stairs!).

Church sits high up on hill

There were lots of placards with descriptions of the church, town hall, and several of the houses. The town was originally a Roman town, and was mentioned several times on ancient maps as a stopover point. One prominent guest was Roman Emperor Valentinian who visited on August 30, 369. The date is recorded because he signed a law while in Breisach.  Not sure what happened between 369 and 1200, but there are lots of buildings with written history from the 1200’s on.

City gate we walked through

After climbing to the top of the hill, first we visited St. Stephan’s Minster, or the church. It was built between the 12th and 15th centuries, but then almost completely destroyed during WWII in 1945. Actually, many of the buildings were destroyed in WWII, and then rebuilt after the war. 

Back of church – what we saw first after climbing up the hill


Front of church

There was an interesting sculpture of a bull coming up out of the ground with a female warrior (Joan of Arc?) riding the bull. Did not see what this sculpture actually represented. 

We had good views from the plateau where the church is located. We could see in the distance another hill with a fortress of some sort, but did not go there, as we would have had to walk down the present hill and climb up the hill where the fortress was located.

Once on top of the hill where St. Stephan’s was located, there was actually an “upper town” where in centuries past the villagers lived. So we could wander around. Several of the houses had plaques which told who lived there. One funny thing was the information was in German, French and English. The German and French descriptions were several sentences long, but the English translation was shortened to one or two sentences. 

One house belonged to a Catholic theologian, can’t remember where he was from, but was forced into retirement and moved to Breisach in the late 1930’s. He was imprisoned many times for speaking out against nazism, and subsequently put to death in a concentration camp. His house caught my eye because it reminded me that it was not only Jews that died in concentration camps. 

Another plaque told how Christians and Jews lived together in the 1300’s. But when the plague came, the Jews were accused of poisoning the wells thus causing the plague, and the Jews were murdered.

We came across another tower which provided water to the ancient town, using a water wheel. 

We spotted the Christmas Market in the lower part of town and walked down to check it out. We agreed that it is a cute town and we were glad we braved the rain.

One of the streets leading to the Christmas Market.

The Breisach Christmas Market was much, much smaller than the Christmas Markets in Basel, but had its own atmosphere. According to our cruise director, the original European Christmas Markets were all about food and drink. But when tourists started coming, they added the booths with handicrafts and other items for sale. The Christmas Market in Breisach was mostly food and drink, but they also had a curling court (is curling done in a court? That’s what I’m calling it!) set up and were curling! Dave and I got a gluhwein and watched! We wished we knew the rules, because it seemed a little different than the curling we watch in the Olympics. We did not keep our gluhwein cup…it was just a plain glass cup whereas the Basel ones have the year imprinted on them. 

Drinking gluhwein in Breisach


This is actually a fountain we saw in somebody’s yard. At the top are little spigots for the water to drip down. Very unusual!

After the gluhwein and curling, we’d had enough rain and headed back to the boat. It was “tea time” and they were serving more gluhwein!

We had some evening entertainment – a lady singer and gentleman piano player. We enjoyed the performance. She sang songs from Caberet, West Side Story and some Christmas Caroles.

December 3, 2022:

Today was a “slow” day. We checked out of our hotel and took a cab to the river oar, Avalon Imagery II. The good news is that we are much happier with our stateroom on Avalon than we were with our stateroom on Viking last summer. Admittedly, we booked a higher level stateroom on this trip, but we just feel that the layout of the boat is much better than Viking. 

We did not sign up for the “optional” Basel tour, since we had already spent 2 days in Basel. From others we have met onboard, they went to two of the Christmas markets in Basel that we already visited….so it was a good decision. We stayed onboard and had what they referred to as a light lunch, but I thought it was pretty filling. It was served buffet style, and they had sandwiches, vegetarian lasagne and beef lasagne. Also soup, various salads and some small dessert cakes. Plenty to eat! There are also cookie, coffee and tea stations all over the ship. 

This afternoon, we took a little walk along the stream into whatever town was close to where the boat was docked. We are near the 3 country area of Switzerland, Germany and France. Our walk was still in Switzerland. The big sights were the water fowl.

Swan
Ducks

We walked a little over 2 miles, and then we were back on the boat. 

Map of our walk

Shortly after 4:30 PM, the boat was moving. We had a safety briefing, met the officers, and had a toast. So, we are off on the Christmas Market cruise! 

Our long riverboat

December 2, 2022: since we went about 33 hours without a good sleep, we did not get an early start. Due to some text notifications on my phone, we were awakened at 8:00am Basil time. We did not jump out of bed and get going then, but just kind of relaxed for awhile, watching the news, showering, etc. By the time we were really ready, it was almost lunchtime, so we headed out looking for lunch! We walked across the river and along the riverbank. We saw the “Middle bridge”.


The area along the riverbank had some interesting houses. One had a snail plaque on the outside. It is the red snail house and supposedly was the smallest house in Basel. The legend is that the inhabitants should furnish the living room in the red snail.

Across from the area Snail House is this fountain. It is a Baselisk fountain, and it has a bowl at the bottom so dogs can get a drink, too.


We kept walking and saw a bunch of food trucks ready for the evening rush. One place mentioned to us was Klara. It was described as a food court, like in a mall. We did find it, and cruised through. They had Asian, Italian, African, ane even burgers, but it did not look appealing to us. We found a restaurant that looked nice to us and ended up having an European pizza which we shared. I say European because it reminded us of the ones we had in Italy. Very thin, crispy crust and we added ham and salami. It was very good. After lunch we wandered around some more. One source I saw said Basel had about 200,000 inhabitants. Maybe that does not include the college students? It seems bigger than that. After a brief rest in our hotel room, we headed out again. We walked to the area in front of our hotel. There are food trucks set up, and a pop up musical group singing. Some of the food trucks are selling market foods like vegetables, salamis, flowers, etc…things you’d take home. But we were on a mission to find another Christmas market Dave had read about. We saw a beautiful tree outside a church.

There was a Santa entertaining children by making massive bubbles.

After watching him and the children, we headed to a church in back of him…an Evangelical Reformed church.

We went inside, and they had some beautiful stained glass windows, and chandeliers with red lights. It was dark inside, though. But vents on the floor were giving off some nice heat!


Just outside the church was another market.

Christmas market ahead!



Christmas market photo
Christmas Market photo


This one was much smaller than the one we visited last night, but it had a really cool area for kids. You had to buy a ticket, and then the kids could make candles, decorate cookies, do wood burning, visit a circus, ride a train, or cook something (bread?) over a fire. This market seemed to be more kid oriented. For kids,this was really a cool area.

Making cookies


Wood burning a sword


Baking bread ? Not sure exactly what they were doing!

We walked across the river to see what was going on there. We passed a bar that had keg handles at the table!

Tables with kegs! This area was not for kids….

We started looking for someplace to have dinner, and we saw this really cool place. The tables were in ski lifts!

Ski lift tables


Unfortunately, they were all reserved, so we could not eat here ☹️.

We found an Italian restaurant and the maitre d’ said he could seat us but he had a reservation for the table in 90 minutes. Dave said, If you can serve us, we’ll be done in 90 minutes! So, we ate there. I had risotto with shrimp:

And Dave had Chicken Cordon Bleu:


Of course we had a bottle of wine, a Pinot Grigio, which we are beginning to like! The meal was very good.

At night, many of Basel streets are lit up with these lights overhead making it feel very festive.

After dinner we went back to the hotel and visited the terrace.

Plaza in front of our hotel

We were surprised to see the food trucks and musicians gone! This was taken about 8:00PM on a Friday night! Will be interesting if they are all back tomorrow, but we will be gone – on our river cruise.

We went to the restaurant in our hotel and got a couple of glasses of red wine, and they also gave us a bowl of nibbles to take back to the room.

Time to kick back and rest! It was a good day in Basel!

November 30 – December 1, 2022: I look at this as one long day. We left early for our flight out of Tampa, just because we were ready to go….it turned out to be a good thing. We were flying Tampa to Newark to Frankfurt to Basel, two stops, which we try to avoid. As we were walking into the airport, Dave noticed the two flights to Newark before our were delayed. We knew there was a storm in that general region, but thought it would pass through before our flight. When we went to check our bags, Dave told the United lady we were concerned our flight would be delayed causing a domino effect of missed flights for us. She agreed and put us on an earlier flight. It was still delayed, but should get us to Newark in time for our flight. Whew! We got to Newark about 90 minutes before our second leg, to Frankfurt, left. That was perfect as it was a long walk through the terminal, a pit stop, and boarding started! If we had taken our original flight, it did not arrive in Newark until 15 minutes before our Frankfurt flight, and we would have missed it. The rest of the trip to Basel was uneventful, but we did enjoy watching the sunrise over Frankfurt from the airplane.

The Basel airport is interesting as it sits in both France and Switzerland. When you go to exit, you can either exit into France or into Switzerland. Customs was very easy…you choose a line to declare items or a line with nothing to declare. We had nothing to declare, so we walked straight out to the taxi stand – did not have to talk to customs official at all.

We are staying at Hotel Marthof in Basel, which in right at the beginning of the old city.

We were able to check in when we arrived at 1:30pm, but rooms were not available until 3:00PM. Even though we had a couple of “naps” on our flight, we were still sleep deprived. Switzerland is 6 hours ahead of Englewood, so we have been up for 24 hours at this point. Dave was hungry, so we set out to explore and find some food. Conveniently, a McDonalds was very close to our hotel, so we got a burger to hold us over until dinner time. Sitting in a window seat eating our burger, we could see the city hall.

We walked over to the city hall and it had a huge, beautiful decorated tree.

Basel is all decorated for Christmas and it is a cute city. It is pretty cool – cold to us – and with all the decorations, it really feels like Christmas! There are many fountains and we actually saw kids playing in them, squirting water at each other. Don’t they know how cold it is!

We wandered a little more. We found one of the city gates which was part of the city wall at one time.

There are lots of little plazas, and we saw this tree with notes all over it. Two young girls came up and we asked them what the purpose of the tree was (first we asked if they spoke English! Of course they did – we Americans are spoiled in that so many of us only know one language!). The tree was a wishing tree. There were two stands with note papers, and anyone could write a wish and hang it on the tree. We didn’t write a wish then, but if we pass the tree again, I will definitely add a wish.

We walked by a building with a doorway and 3 long pull cords. I have to assume that each pull cord was the “doorbell” for each of the residences. Unique!

Since it was after 3:00pm, we walked back to the hotel, got our room key, and went to our room. Unfortunately, our view is of…construction! We scattered our belongings, searching for our heavier, warmer clothes, but trying not to totally disrupt all our carefully packed clothes – ha! (We are in this hotel for 2 nights before we move to the river cruise ship.) We dug out our bathroom items, found our heavier clothes, and headed out to find a Christmas Market. We wandered the old town some more, and every store is decorated and very “Christmassy”. Did a lot of window shopping! As we got close to the Christmas market, there was a museum/restaurant that has really cute window that reminded me of the windows in Marshall Field’s, downtown Chicago, from YEARS ago! At least one window was animated!


We could see the Christmas Market and walked towards it. There were tons of people! Lots and lots of little booths with vendors selling everything. The first place we stopped had a very long line to purchase “Gluh wine”, which tasted more like apple cider. But it was hot and delicious! The wine was 5 € and you pay an extra 3€ for the ceramic cup, which I think you can turn in and get your 3€ back, but we kept them as souvenirs. Since this was our first Christmas market, I know Dave is hoping we don’t return home with a suitcase fill of Gluh wine cups! We wandered around the market and saw all kinds of decorations, including this huge one! Should remind you of the small merry-go-rounds that
you lighted candles to make them turn.

We decided to walk back to the hotel and find a restaurant. We ended up eating at the restaurant in our hotel “Bohemia”. I had “Moules and Frites” and Dave had Salmon, with a bottle of Pinot Grigio. It was very good and was a relaxing way to finish our day.

Celebrity Solstice 10/8 to 10/15/2022


October 15, 2022: my last post fir this trip! We purchased transfers to the airport from Celebrity. It was probably a good choice, because when we exited the cruise terminal, there was a huge line waiting for taxi’s and Ubers. We were up early, off the ship, on the bus and arrived at LAX by 9:30AM. Our flight is at 12:05PM, but LAX is a big airport and lots of people told us it can take a long time to check your bag and get through security. Fortunately for us, we got through pretty quick and we’re at our gate by 10:00AM.

I must be a magnet for toddlers. Dave and I had aisle seats across from each other. On first leg of flight, a toddler sat with his parents in the middle and window seats. He was very active for the first half hour or so, but settled down and slept. Whew! On the second leg, A toddler was right behind me and proceeded to kick the back of my seat for the first half hour. I think the mom saw me tell Dave I was concerned about spending 2 more hours with the child kicking my seat. Dave said she turned the child around, and fortunately, the rest of the flight was fine. 

We got to Tampa about 9:45 pm, but there was some kind of an issue with the luggage as we were told it was going to be on carousel #2, and we waited. Then they changed it to  carousel #4 and we waited. Then a message came on carousel #4 saying all the bags were on the belt, when not even one bag came. Then we got a PA announcement that the bags were on carousel #2. Fortunately, this time the luggage did come out on the belt and we got our bag about 10:30pm. We made it home at the stroke of midnight.


October 14, 2022:  Today we are in Ensenada, Mexico. We have a private tour going to two winery’s. While we did not see downtown Ensenada, I will say we had a very enjoyable day, and the best tour of the cruise. Based see on what we saw today, I would not mind coming back and spending more time in Ensenada.

We heard from the sommelier at our wine tasting that Ensenada was up and coming in the wine industry. How many Mexican wines have you tasted? We’ll, Dave and I have tasted several after our shore excursion today. 

We got off the ship a little before 9:00 and had to walk about 1/4 mile to the meeting point. We were a few minutes early, and our guide Fernando said there were 14 people. Our driver was Pancho. On our ride, Fernando talked about the area and pointed out various landmarks. It was about 45 minutes to the first winery, Cetto. At the winery, everything was clean and well landscaped. They had been in the business since 1928, and it is still in the same family. Our guide at the winery was Adrian and he showed us the wine making process. We actually saw the grape skins coming down the conveyor.

Adrian said they were Cabernet Sauvignon grape skins. The first pressing had taken place and these skins were on their way to a second pressing to extract more juice. Adrian took us to their storage room where wine is kept in barrels and the building is kept at 58 to 64 degrees. There were 3 sizes of barrels – big barrels for young wine , medium size barrels and then smaller barrels for the reserve wine.


After our tour we were taken into their sales room to taste wine. We had 4 wine samples, 2 whites and 2 reds. Our guide also gave us bread, cheese, and olives to sample with the wines. All the wines were very good, but we could not buy any because they do not ship and we could not carry them back on the plane.

Fernando in blue behind the wines we tasted and Adrian is in the red shirt

Leaving the Cetto winery, we drove a short distance to a second winery, La Casa de Dona Lupe. This grape grower used to produce and sell grapes to Cetto, the first winery we stopped at. But then Cetto was able to grow enough grapes to meet their production quotas and stopped buying grapes from La Casa de Dona Lupe. So La Casa de Dona Lupe started producing their own wines.


In order to have a different product, they also sell food, hot sauces, jams, etc. We got to pick 4 wines from their offerings. Their wine was not as good, but again we were provided with bread, oil, olives…and sauces and flavored olive oils to try. As we were tasting the wines, someone from a different tour saw Dave’s Buc’s hat and gave him their ticket for 4 wines because he wasn’t a wine drinker. So Dave got to try 8 different wines. Unfortunately, La Casa de Dona Lupe’s wines were just not as good as Cetto’s. After we left La Casa de Dona Lupe, our driver mentioned an authentic taco place and asked if we were interested. Of course we were! I think this is one of Poncho’s favorite places. In case you are in Ensenada, the name of the place is El Trailero.  This place had taco preparers set up at different stations and each prepared tacos with a different meat.


We tried the fish tacos, but Dave thinks we got shrimp tacos…anyway, they were very good.

I also tried a bottle of water with chia seeds. It was surprisingly sweet.

Stopping at the taco place was a nice bonus. As we got close to the ship, Fernando offered to drop us off downtown or at a bar where Margaritas were invented, “Bar Andaluz”.


Of course I opted to go to the Margarita bar. I had a frozen mango margarita and Dave had a Cadillac Margarita on the rocks.

I have to admit, Daves margaritas at home taste better as they have more flavor. After the margaritas, we walked back to the ship. But it was a fun day and I really enjoyed it.

After returning to the ship, we packed and gathered our stuff in preparation for disembarking tomorrow.

We went to the theater to see a magician perform. Of course it’s not really magic, but slight of hand and trickery. Dave does not enjoy magicians, but I found hum entertaining. I think his name was Andrew Kim. After the show, we went to dinner and then to bed as we have to get up early tomorrow. We will be off the ship by 8:00AM.

October 13, 2022: Today is a sea day, so our last chance at relaxing. After breakfast, we went to the internet lounge. Dave was trying to send an email, and for some reason it would not go through. I have an upgraded internet package where Dave just has the basic. Even using my login, the email wouldn’t go through. The internet lounge guy thought the problem was an attachment on the original email. So we deleted the attachment and finally got his response sent.

Late morning we had a complimentary wine tasting because of our loyalty with Celebrity. Dave really does not like these, because he knows what wines he likes. But, I talked him into going because it was something to do on a sea day.

We lounged for awhile in the stateroom, had a late lunch, and went to a matinee with Kristina Wells. She was the vocalist we heard last night in the theater. This afternoon she was singing 70’s music by “Diva’s”. It was a good show. She has a lot of energy and makes the show entertaining. 

We spent some time relaxing in our stateroom. I have daily assignments from my Bible study class which includes reading each day and Dave has a book and watches some TV….like ‘Da Bears!

We finished our day by going to the theater before dinner. The show was Broadway Cabaret. The six onboard vocalists sang song from hit plays like Cats. We were a little disappointed because we only recognized a few of the songs and wished they would have sang more familiar pieces from these plays. But, it was entertaining and after the show we went to dinner. Lots more people in our restaurant and they were LOUD ☹️


October 12, 2022: We have a port call in Cabo San Lucas today, and we have booked a shore excursion “Cabo Sightseeing Tour”. We were in Cabo San Lucas in 2009, but I don’t remember any of it. Of course, in 13 years I’m sure a lot changed anyway.

To get to our meeting point we have to take a ships tender. The ship is not able to dock, because Cabo San Lucas does not hove docking facilities. So they use the lifeboats to bring people from the ship to the shore. We have done this many times, but today is the first time we had a lady tender driver! She did a great job!

Arriving on land we joined our tour. Lots of people taking this tour – two big buses full! So first we drive to the center of Cabo San Lucas and pause at the main square. Cabo San Lucas was founded in 1541. There is a marker at this city square for KM O, which is supposedly the start of the highway that heads north into California, but it should actually be a mile or so away on the beach. The government put it here for tourism purposes.


The guide pointed out the church in Cabo San Lucas and told us the difference between a church and a mission is that the mission may be used for many purposes. This is the church in Cabo San Lucas.

As we drive, the guide points to an area in the hills and said this is veered very wealthy people live as just the lot without a building on it costs over $2 million USdollars. Supposedly Michael Jordan and John Travolta are two of the wealthy people with homes here, and they may not visit them even once a year.  We drive along the water and we are heading to the neighboring town of San Jose del Cabo. Our guide tells us about the humpback whales that are in these waters as well as various species of shark. He tells us about the different color of flags that fly on the beaches. Green flag means it is ok to swim, yellow flag means be careful as there may be hazards, a red flag means don’t think about swimming here, a black flag means somebody didn’t pay attention to the flags and passed away, a white flag indicates jelly fish and a blue flag means there are services.

As we pass one beach area, the guide pointed out a surfing beach used by experts, mediocre surfers, and rookies – each in their own area. 

Look closely for 3 surfers in the water, above the building roof

The guide also talked about the US invasion of Mexico in 1846 to 1848. The war ended with a treaty giving the U.S. undisputed control of Texas, established the U.S.-Mexican border along the Rio Grande, and ceded to the United States the present-day states of California, Nevada, Utah, most of New Mexico, Arizona, and Colorado, and parts of Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas and Wyoming. in return, Mexico got some money. General Grant was involved in this war and some think this war was the  precursor to the civil war. As our guide previously told us, a mission has multiple uses where a church only has one purpose. The mission in San Jose del Cabo was used as a shelter, an elementary school and even a post office for awhile. We are going to visit the mission in San Jose del Cabo, and our bus ride is taking us to San Jose del Cabo. 

We arrived in San Jose del Cabo in front of the city hall.

It is close to the town square and the mission building is at one end of the square. But first we go and taste some chocolate and tequila, always a fun activity. After the tastings an a chocolate purchase….Dave and I left and wandered around the square a little bit. There are lots of stores, but the only people here seem to be the ones from the two tour buses. Dave and I bought a scoop of ice cream, and wandered over to the mission.

The mission was originally founded in 1730 and originally built in some swampy land close to the water, but was destroyed and moved to this location. Missions customarily were built using natural materials.


This mission was not without drama as there were disagreements with the indigenous people. In 1734, the natives drug the priest out of the church and brutally murdered him. In remembrance of the event, there is are tiles depicting the event on the front of the church.


Fortunately, things were very peaceful today.

We met our guide at the appointed time and got back on the bus. Our guide noticed he was missing 2 people…20 minutes late the missing people boarded the bus. Very frustrating when people can’t follow instructions.

On the ride away from San Jose del Cabo, our guide spoke of Mary Leonora Carrington, originally born in England. She was an artist that recognized the potential of San Jose del Cabo  and fought her ideals of feminism and equality to the region. A piece of her work is located at the intersection of two highways near San Jose del Cabo. Not a very good picture as it was through the bus window.

We were a little disappointed in this tour, as it wasn’t what we expected. I think we thought we would be getting more of a tour of Cabo San Lucas. But our guide was very knowledgeable and gave us all sorts of information.

We saw a huge pelican while waiting for our ride back to the ship.


View from inside the tender. Capacity for casual use, transporting passengers to shore for excursions is 120 people. But for evacuation, capacity is 150. There are seats upstairs, but we did not want to sit in the sun.
Our view from the tender heading back to the ship.

Back on the ship, we went to get something to eat, and then to our room to rest up before going to dinner this evening.

Dave got a picture of the Cabo San Lucas arch from our balcony as the ship was leaving Cabo San Lucas. This spot is a popular gathering area for sea lions and is frequented by tourists.

We went to the theater tonight and the performer was a vocalist from Las Vegas, Kristina Wells. She sang many favorites that we knew, including songs from Celine Dion, Four Seasons, Frank Sinatra and Adele…so a wide variety! We have been going to the early show and eating dinner a little later. It seems there are fewer people in the early show, but we heard from Guest Services there are only about 1400 people onboard, so that’s 50% capacity….no lines, no waiting!

October 11, 2022: Today we had a port of call in Puerto Vallarta , Mexico. It is a city that Dave and I have wanted to visit. We did a ship excursion, because it is a good way to get a feel of the city and not get into trouble. Our ship was backed into the dock, and our stateroom on the back of the ship, so we had a good view….but it was of the newer part of the city. I think we were docked in Nuevo Vallarta. There was a Walmart and shopping mall across the street from where we docked – not what we were hoping to see. 

Unfortunately, the picture got blurry when I posted it, but it is clear on my phone ☹️.

We left on our excursion on a bus, and drove quite a distance to the older part of the city. First we went to the Malecon, which is a walk along the waterfront. There are many statues or pieces of art.

Hard to read, but it says Puerto Vallarta

We were entertained by two “Aztec” men who danced for us.

Then we walked to The Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, built between 1930 and 1940. The steeple is crowned with angles and is unusual because of the open design.

The interior was beautiful, but not extravagant like many of the churches in Europe. The church is based on a parish priests ideas and the rustic townscape of the past.

The guide pointed out houses higher up on a hill. This area is called Gringo Gulch. Part of the reason it is called that is because our guide said this is where Liz Taylor and Richard Burton stayed while filming “ The Night of the Iguana”.

We reboarded the bus for a short drive to the Romantic Zone. In the Romantic Zone, we visited a park with mosaic tile artwork. Artists have covered what used to be bare cement with mosaic tiles. The benches are covered with mosaics, all different designs.

We enjoyed walking through this park. The park is just up the street from a beach called “skeleton beach” or “deadman’s beach”. It is so named for the bones of indigenous people found buried in the sand after legendary pirate raids on a nearby village.

Skeleton or Deadman’s Beach

The park also had a cute statue of a stubborn mule.

We reboarded  our bus and drove to another park. To reach the park we had to walk across a suspension bridge.

Then we were on Cuale Island or Childrens island. Our guide told us that as a child he played in the river we just crossed and the ladies would be washing their laundry in the river. From there we walked to a shopping area and stopped at a shop where the owner was making candied nuts. We were offered several samples and also samples of tequila. This was our last stop and we were given about 45 minutes to wander in this area. It was touristy, but not overwhelmed with tourists. 

Back at the ship, we had lunch, and then rested for awhile. We were invited to go to the helipad on the front of the ship for the sail away.

Crazy hair on helipad during sailaway

This invite is issued “as a reward” to those who have sailed a lot with celebrity, and also to people staying in suites. It’s kinda fun – they serve Champaign and mimosas. We thought it was going to be hot, but we actually had a nice breeze. 

After the sail away, we went back to our stateroom and showered as it had been a very warm day. We went to the evening show, which was a modern take on music from Mozart to the present. The best part was the aerialists and acrobats took part. They are really fun to watch. After the show, we went to dinner and then to bed. We set our clocks back an hour tonight, so we get an extra hour of sleep!


October 10, 2022:  Today was another sea day and we did not do much! We can really get into this relaxing thing…. After breakfast we got the daily sudoku and crossword puzzles. Dave went to the library and I went to the internet cafe to try to post yesterdays blog. I thought there would be a stronger signal there …. Nope! So posting my blog is a bit of an effort. After finally getting it uploaded, I met Dave in the library where we solved the sudoku and crossword puzzle. I admit, we used Google a little on some of the weird clues. This afternoon we relaxed on our balcony until the sun became too hot. I forgot to mention that yesterday we saw a large pod (?), school (?), of dolphins. I would guess 50 but Dave would probably guess 20. They were all racing towards the ship, I assume to play in the wake. It was an bunch of dolphins anyway. We had a great dinner tonight – at least I did. It was a vegetarian lasagne with a chicken breast on top for the non-vegetarian, me. After dinner, we watched a “whisper” game show. It was kind of like charades. We went to the casino for awhile. We have quite a bit of on board credit, and if we don’t use it, we lose it. So the way to take it out of our account, is to get a voucher from the casino which they charge to your account, play a slot machine a little, then cash out and turn in your cashed out ticket for real US$. Dave was lucky and is actually up about $12. We still have over $100 to cash out this way. We are not sure why we ended up with so much on board credit, but we are not going to complain! Tomorrow we are in Puerto Vallarta, so we have ordered room service for breakfast. That save us having to get up early just to go to breakfast!

October 9, 2022: Hard to do my update due to poor internet connectivity. Today is a sea day, so while there are many activities going on on the ship, Dave and I are taking the opportunity to relax. We spent a lot of time on our balcony, watching the wake, sometimes through our closed eyelids (!).

Watching the wake

The time changes are tough. We gained 3 hours flying to LA, and we lost 1 hour today. We will lose 1 more hour tomorrow. On the way back to LA, we will regain those two hours, but then we’ll lose 3 hours on the flight to Tampa. Tonight was the first of two “dress up” nights.

We are ”dressed up!”

After dinner, we went to the production show, Rock. We were disappointed in that we did not recognize many of the songs, but all in all it was very entertaining and I enjoyed it. The show incorporated 3 acrobats, which was probably my favorite part of the show. After the show we stopped by the martini bar for a nightcap, then back to our stateroom, setting our clocks forward one hour, and then to bed.

October 8, 2022: Our flight to LA was uneventful. We caught the shuttle to ”H Hotel by Hilton, Curio collection”. We had a nice room with double sinks (!), and had dinner in the hotels restaurant. Since we have a 3 hour time change, our internal clocks are a little screwed up. We went to bed early and got up early.The hotel has a coffee shop with Krispy Kreme donuts, so that was our breakfast this morning.

I guess our big excitement was using Uber for the first time. I had the Uber app on my phone because we tried to use Uber when we spent 16 days in London earlier this year, but the London Uber would not accept me because the phone number associated with my sim card was already in their system with another user. So I was trying to schedule an Uber for our trip from the hotel to the port and was having trouble. I would enter all the info but was not getting a confirmation. Finally I looked at my account and realized the phone number was from the London sim card and not my mobile phone. Once I got that fixed, I got the Uber reserved and received the confirmation. So we go outside to look for the Uber, and the driver texts us that he was here, but his car was nowhere in sight. Finally I figured out he was on the wrong side of the building where there is a Subway restaurant, but not the entrance to the hotel. It was a 21.5 mile ride and the charge was $38. The driver was obviously not familiar with the cruise port. There were two ships loading, and we kept telling him Celebrity, but he insisted the drop off was in front of a Princess ship. Since we thought he was better informed than us, we got out at the Princess drop off and had to walk a couple of blocks to the Celebrity ship drop off.

We were on the ship by 11:00AM, dropped our bags and explored the ship. It is the same class, Solstice class, as the Equinox which we cruised on in August, 2021. So it was pretty familiar. After much discussion, we decided to upgrade from the classic beverage package to the premium package. We have shipboard credit and our excursions are already paid. We don’t think we will go to a specialty restaurant and since the remaining onboard credit is not refunable, we decided we’d use it drinking better booze. So we went to the martini bar to upgrade and I discovered I had lost my seapass card….already! We backtracked all the places we had been, but couldnt find it. We had to go to guest relations and get a new one issued.

October 6, 2022: We are getting ready to leave tomorrow, Friday, October 7, 2022 for our short 7 day West Coast cruise. We were hit with Hurricane Ian on September 28, 2022. Our roof, pool cage and ceilings were damaged. But this short trip was already booked and paid for, so we are planning to go. There is so much devastation in the area, but particularly south of us, that we think it will be awhile before contractors can fix our damages. Our thinking is that being gone for a week won’t make a difference. That’s our plan and time will tell if we are wrong.

Itinerary:

*10/7/22: We fly direct Tampa to Los Angeles, CA (LAX)

*10/8/2022: Board Celebrity Solstice, Aqua class stateroom 1672

*10/9/2022: At Sea

*10/10/2022: At Sea

*10/11/2022: Puerto Vallarta, Mexico – 8:00AM to 4:30 PM

*10/12/2022: Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – 9:00AM to 6:00PM

*10/13/2022: At Sea

*10/14/2022: Ensenada, Mexico – 9:00AM to 6:00PM

*10/15/2022: Disembark in Los Angeles and fly to Tampa

Ft. Lauderdale to Amsterdam, 5/26-7/15/2022

July 14, 2022 (Thursday): We had a nice leisurely morning, although we were up pretty early. We left our hotel room a little before noon in search of a place for lunch. One of my apps had a list of Amsterdam pubs, so we headed out in search of the oldest one which was close to our hotel, Cafe Karpershoek. We found it, but did not like the menu, so we went next door. I had a chicken club which was basically the same as Dave’s Chicken Schnitzel except mine was in bread. After lunch we walked to the Palace. The Palace was not always a palace, but originally built as the town hall. Construction started in 1648 and while it was being used in  1655, it was not completed until 1665. The Netherlands was a republic at that time. When it was built, it was called the eighth wonder of the world. It was a hub of activity. All sorts of city business was conducted here. It was the administrative hub of the city. The four mayors and city councils, the courts, city jails, tax authorities, an exchange bank, insurance and bankruptcy offices, and much more conducted their business in this building. At the end of the 18th century, the Bavarian Republic was proclaimed in the Netherlands and the Governor, William V of Orange-Nassau fled to England and the Netherlands became an ally of France. In 1806, Napoleon appointed his brother, Louis, as king of Holland. Louis decided the only building fit to be his palace was the town hall building, and Louis converted the town hall into his palace. Louis was loved by the people, but Napoleon expected a more pro-France policy from his brother. In 1810, Louis abdicated. The people liked having a king, and from 1813, the son of William V, became King William I, of the Netherlands. William I was the first king of the House of Orange (aka William of Orange). The current King is a descendant of William of Orange.

This palace is not the primary residence of the current king, and it was only used sparingly by most of his predecessors. The Kings primary residence is in The Hague. 

Our tour told what the rooms were originally used for when it was the town hall, and then how  the rooms are now being used as part of the Royal palace. 

When we entered the Palace, the first room we saw was the Citizens’ Hall, the heart of the building. It is a huge hall: 55.5 ft wide,  88.5 ft high and 111.5 feet long. It provided access to the offices of the city government and the judiciary which lay beyond and on higher floors. Today, this is where state banquets, gala dinners and various award ceremonies are held. There is lots of statuary, but the most impressive is Atlas holding up the universe. The chandeliers are beautiful.  

This is a photo of the ceiling. 

There is a hallway around the outside of Citizen’s Hall, which leads to the other rooms we visited.

The throne room:

Current King’s sitting room: 

Former Council Chamber: When the building was the town hall, the four mayors met with their advisors in this room. King William III arranged the installation of the 1,587lb. chandelier which came from Paris. This room is currently used for smaller dinners and official photographs. 

 King Louis Bonaparte added a balcony to the building, and while we could not go out on the balcony, this is the view just inside, looking out over the balcony.

The current kings great grandmother was Queen Wilhelmina (1880-1962). She used the Amsterdam Palace the most. She ascended the throne at the age of 10 after her father’s death, but her Mother guided her until her inauguration at age 18. She has remained a popular figure in the Netherlands. She ruled for almost 58 years, longer than any other Dutch monarch. This is a portrait of her at age 20. 

During state visits, the visiting head of state stays here. In 1946. Winston Churchill spent a whole week here. It was used by King Louis Bonaparte, and was his bedchamber. It is called the “Bedroom of the English Quarter”, which may have resulted from Churchill’s visit. Before it was a palace, this room served as the Insurance Chamber. The city government realized that trade in the city, and thus the city itself, benefited from some form of insurance for ships and cargo against disasters, theft and liability. The insurance premiums were so attractive that many foreign merchants decided to insure themselves in Amsterdam. 

In the Tribunal, death sentences were pronounced. The death penalty was not treated lightly and was administered four times a year on average. We were told the story of one young woman, 18 years old, Elsje Christiaens, from Denmark, who had come to Amsterdam to work as a maid. In a panic, she killed her landlady with an axe. I’m not sure what kind of panic would cause her to do that, and I had no one to ask. On the day of her execution in 1664, she appeared in the Tribunal before the magistrates who sentenced her to death. Her sentence was read publicly, and after praying for the salvation of her soul, she stepped onto the scaffold where she was strangled and symbolically hit on the head with the axe used for the murder. Elsje’s body was left on public display as a warning to Amsterdammers and foreign visitors.  

The Tribunal

We saw many more rooms, but this is a sample.

After the palace, we had a cheese tasting planned, but had about an hour before the cheese tasting. We found a cute plaza with a statue of Rembrandt with tables and chairs. So Dave had a glass of wine and I had a Bavarian beer. 

The cheese tasting was part of the Henri Willig cheese producer. We heard the whole story – Henri’s father was a dairy farmer and Henri inherited the farm. He wanted to do more than produce milk, and I’m sure make more money. So he learned to make cheese. We tasted 5 different cheeses (2 pieces of each cheese) and could dip them in sauces if we wanted to. The sauces were a brown whole grain mustard, balsamic glaze, and I wasn’t sure what the third one was but it could have been a cranberry sauce as it was sweet and somewhat fruity. The board looks large, but there were 6 people at our table. Henri Wellig also produces beer and wine, and we each got 2 drinks of our choice. Dave chose wine, he got a white and a port.  I chose beer and got a Pilsner and a dark beer. Youngsters got orange or apple juice.

The cheeses we tasted were fenugreek, pesto cheese, goat gold, smoked cheese and goat cheese extra old. The fenugreek is an herb common in Indian dishes. It gave the cheese a hint of walnut flavor. They were all very good and of course we bought some and brought them home.


We did not need a big dinner after the cheese tasting, so we just had an adult beverage (or a few) and shared an appetizer of bitterballen. We had bitterballen on the ship and enjoyed them – it is a Dutch meat based snack. I may try to make them at home.

Tomorrow we fly home as we are at the end of our 50 day vacation. It will be a long day, as we have to be up by 6:00am Amsterdam time which is midnight in Florida. Then we won’t get home until midnight, so a 24 hour day assuming no delays.

The End 😳!

July 13, 2022 (Wednesday): We are winding down from our travels. Today we disembarked the Viking Sigrun and moved to the Doubletree Centraal Station Hotel. Actually, we are very close to where our ship docked. We arrived at the hotel by about 9:30am, and fortunately they had a room available that early. The room itself is fine, but we have NO view, and people walking down the hallway can see into our room. Dave is pretty unhappy with the room, but I don’t plan on spending much time in the room. 

We rested up a bit, and Dave checked out a couple of tours. For today, we settled on a 3 hour walking tour that started at 2:00. We left the hotel about 11:30 and decided to walk towards where we were to meet the walking tour and look for someplace to have lunch. It turned out that the tour starts in a little park in front of the “new” stock exchange building, and next to the first stock exchange building. The first stock exchange building had a little bistro, so we had lunch there and waited for our tour to start.

First stock exchange building where we had lunch
Pretty flowers in front of the first stock exchange where we had lunch

Dave asked about the building where we had lunch, and the guide told him it was the first stock exchange building. But they outgrew the first building, and it became the commodities exchange, and the new exchange was built. While we ate lunch, we watched the ticker roll by on a sign above the new exchange building. There was a big bull statue outside the new building, too.

Our guide told us that Amsterdam had the first stock exchange. In the Middle Ages, Amsterdam wanted to be able to send ships to the Middle East for slices, but could not afford to but the ships needed to travel to the Middle East. So they sold shares in order to raise money to build ships. This was the first stock exchange. 

Just interesting images on a building
Another interesting image

He also told us an interesting story about prostitution and the Catholic Church. Lots of sailors visited Amsterdam, and the government would look the other way because they felt the prostitutes were saving the good girls, the virgins. The sailors were superstitious, so before they went back to sea, they would confess their sins, pay a little fee, and be absolved of their sins. 

We walked past a bilding that used to be a gate to the city.


Houses in Amsterdam that lean!

The guide took us to the old Jewish part of the city. He said when the Nazis invaded Amsterdam, there were lots of promises that life would go on as usual and the Jews would be left alone. So, there was no resistance in Amsterdam. But the. The nazis asked for a map of where everyone lived, so they knew where the Jews lived and began deporting them. Amsterdam became cut off and all the people were starving. Besides, they had harsh winters. Since the Jews had all been deported, their houses were empty and deserted. The remaining citizens destroyed the Jews homes to salvage the wood so they could burn it to keep warm. Our guides comment was the Jewish community was destroyed, but not by who you’d think. 

The guide talked about the rulers. The Netherlands used to be a republic. Netherlands was conquered by Napoleon in 1810, who abolished the republic, annexed Holland to France,  and made his brother the King of Holland. Then the French were driven out in 1813, but the people liked having a king. They called back William Of Orange, the son of the last stadtholder  (national leader) and the current King of the Netherlands is a descendent of William of Orange. Our guide commented that it was the only country he knew of that was a republic but became a monarchy. 

One house he pointed out to us was build by a very wealthy person, he was a slavetrader. He would pick up Africans and take them to the USA and bring back tobacco and other American products. The images on his house are of Africans.

Out tour ended at the palace, which doesnt look likeva palace because originally it was city hall.

Palace

Our guide was a former teacher and said he preferred to talk to people who wanted to listen to him, compared to students who don’t want to listen. He was very entertaining and we walked with him around Amsterdam for three hours!

After our tour, we had to sit down for awhile. We had seen The Grasshopper bar and restaurant earlier, so we stopped there to rest and get a couple of glasses of wine.

I look tired…for good reason!
The Grasshopper where we had wine

Then we walked back to the hotel to decide where to have dinner. It was impossible to find a restaurant close to us that posted their menu online. We finally just went down to the restaurant in the hotel, Eastwood Beer &Grill. Dave had Salmon with risotto and I had shrimp with risotto, but my risotto was different from Daves mine had pumpkin and almonds mixed in. It was very good. Dave thought his risotto was better, of course.

Amsterdam Train Station
May of our walk today from my May My Walk app
Group picture of our walking group. Dave and I were the only Americans!

July 12, 2022 (Tuesday): we spent a lot of the day cruising on the Rhine. We saw cows in the water, and there is a lot of river traffic. We see barges carrying gas, liquid natural gas and coal.

Cows enjoying a swim in the Rhine
One of many barges, this one carrying coal

We got to Kinderdijk about 4:00PM for our walking tour in the windmills of Kinderdijk. 

We had a walking tour in Kinderdijk. The guide was very informative explaining how the windmills work. Not being very mechanical, what I remember is that the windmills lifted water up into the oceans and rivers so the land became inhabitable. In old times the process was done using windmills, but now it is done with modern pumps and machines. our guide pointed out a lot of plants and flowers. It seems this area is a park, and they have many areas of wikdflowers.

There were many windmills in this area.




There was a story our guide told about a flood and the baby was floating on the water. The cat came and was balancing the cradle to keep it from turning over in the water, causing the baby to fall out and drown. (We heard a couple of versions of this story).

Cat in the Cradle

We were able to tour a windmill. A family lived in the windmill and the husband was responsible to move the blades so they would catch the wind and turn. This in turn moved the water up. The windmill we toured was a family with 13 children. The living quarters were very tight. The people had to be small because the beds were short.


This is living room, kitched and parents bedroom. The parents slept in the back where you can see blue covers
Another ”bedroom”
Inside workings of windmill


The miller would farm when the wind wasn’t blowing to help supplement his income. Responsibility for the windmill would pass down generations, so sons would become millers. It sounded like there are still millers than live in windmills, which is surprising in this day. However, there was a miller, in wooden shoes, at the mill we visited and our guide described him as the miller of the day, but his mill was about 15 miles away. 

Our last night onboard…here is our menu for dinner tonight.


Bitterballen
Sea bass


July 11, 2022 (Monday): We are in Cologne, Germany and we are doing a walking tour. The big point of interest is the Cathedral.

Cologne Cathedral

 It was started in 1248, and not completed until 1880. There was a period of time in there, over 250 years, that no work was done. The people of Cologne assumed it would never be completed. Then the people of Cologne got an infusion of money from Prussia to complete the Cathedral, with one stipulation. Prussia required Cologne to build the railway station next to the cathedral so when people were coming to Cologne on the train, the first thing they would see was the cathedral that Prussia financed. All of Cologne was pretty much destroyed in WWII, but the cathedral only received a small amount of damage. Photo of a photo of the devastation around the cathedral. 

The Cathedral we see today is not completely original as it is continuously being repaired, and portions replaced. The oldest window are in back of the choir. 

There is also a large gold reliquary in back of the choir that supposedly holds the bones of the 3 wise men. According to our guide, this treasure was confiscated from Istanbul by Milan, and then confiscated from Milan by Frederick Barbarossa in 1164. He said there is no way to prove that it is really the 3 wise men, but the contents have been tested and the contents are old  enough that it is possible. 

One of the stained glass windows in the cathedral is very modern. It looks like pieces of confetti. The artist of the window is very famous and books have been written about this window. Supposedly the colors and patterns represent verses and stories in the Bible. Our guide said he attended a 2 hour presentation on the meaning of the window. It is not a good photo because of the lighting.

Outside the cathedral is a replica of the finials on top of the two towers. They are about 31 feet high and 15 feet wide.


Pigeons taking a bath in the plaza in front of the Cathedral

After visiting the Cathedral, the guide pointed out the “Rathaus”, which is city hall. We have heard this joke from other German guides, that English speakers think this says Rat House, which is where all the politicians are. 

For some weird reason which I did not catch, under the clock on city hall is a face of a bearded man. On the hour, he sticks out this tongue tor each hour. Across the plaza from city hall, high up on the wall, is a plaster caste of the “moon”. Supposedly he is mooning the politicians in  city hall. 

The guide took us past a museum housing Roman artifacts, as the city was originally founded by the Romans. The Romans were here almost 2000 years ago, in 50AD. The city is already planning a big celebration in 2050. All state funded museums are closed on Monday, so we could no go in. But through the window we could see a fabulous mosaic floor, that was only missing a few detains. Because of the reflection in the window, this is the best photo I got.Our guide said at one of the G8 meetings they put a large glass over the mosaic and served the heads of state dinner. Bill Clinton, Tony Blair, and Boris Yeltsin were three that attended the dinner.

After our walk, we returned to the ship for lunch, and walked some more. We walked back to  the Cathedral area and checked out a store selling 4711 cologne. Dave did not like the scent, I think it was too “spicy” for him, so I did not buy any cologne. We walked back towards the ship and stopped for a kolsch beer at a recommend place. The glasses are narrow and not very tall. This is so there is not so much beer in your glass that you finish it while it’s still cold. 


Then we walked past the boat to the Chocolate Museum. This museum was open because it is ran by a company, Lindt Chocolates. We had no intention of going through the museum, but there is a store attached. We wandered the whole store and found some interesting items, including chocolate beer! Dave decided he’d rather have peanut M&M’s, so we did not buy any chocolate. Back on the boat we decided to have a beverage and sit at tables on the bow. I was drinking a dark beer and Dave was drinking wine. At one point I reached for my glass without seeing a bee was on the glass…and I got stung ☹️.

After dinner we sat on the top deck to watch our departure from Cologne. While it was getting dark, we watched and heard hundreds of green parakeets fly into the trees next to our boat. They were loud! Not a good picture because of it being dusk.

It was especially pretty because we had a full moon.

Great Saint Martin church built on the remnants of a Roman chapel, on what was then an island in the Rhine. The soaring tower was erected between 1150-1250. We were unable to get in, as I think it is also a museum, which is closed on Monday.  


The Cathedral at night, as we were leaving Cologne:

July 10, 2022 (Sunday): We have a more relaxed morning today. We left the dock about 8:30AM and we are cruising the Rhine River. Over 66 km, we pass 20 castles. Most of the castles today are museums, hotels, restaurants or all three. We were traveling south to north, so the first castles we saw were at the bottom.

We did not take pictures of all the castles, but some we thought were interesting. 

Ehrenfels Castle
Mouse Tower

 

Reichenstein Castle
Chapel for Reichenstein Castle

Pfalzgrafenstein Castle
Lorelei rock
Statue of Lorelei
Marksburg Castle

In the afternoon, we had a walking tour of Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. It overlooks the Deutches Eck where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers meet. We took a gondola across the river to get to the fortress. Ehrenbreitstein is Europes largest fortress.  

We had a great guide, who we found out at the end of the tour is an actor from England. 

However, he knew his history and was very well versed on the fortress. But he made a very boring subject interesting. The hill upon which it rests was settled as far back as the 4th century BC, and a Roman fortification was there around 400-500AD. Construction on the current fortifications began around 1100 and expanded in the 16th century. In @801, Ehrenbreitstein was partially destroyed by Napoleon, and the French occupied Koblenz for the next 18 years. The fort has been under French and British flags, and the American flag for two  different periods. If my memory serves me right, for a short time after WWI and then after WWII.

After returning to “our” side of the river on the gondola, we walked along the river for a bit, but because it was Sunday, almost everything was closed. So we walked the other way towards the Deutsches Eck which is the “German Corner”. This is where the river splits with the Moselle and Rhine. There is a monumental equestrian statue in a park. The statue is Wilhelm I, first German Emperor, erected in 1897 in appreciation of his role in the unification of Germany. 

Wilhelm I

we also were able to get pictures of our boat whike we were on the gondola. it is very long, but narrow. It is about 442 feet long and about 38 feet wide.


July 9, 2022 (Saturday):  This morning we are in Speyer, Germany. We have a walking tour. After we leave the boat, the boat is going to move to Worms, Germany, and we will rejoin the boat in Worms.

As many towns along the Rhine River, they were first established by the Romans. Our guide indicated the Romans were in Speyer 2000 years ago. In the 11th century, Emperor Konrad II was made emperor over all the German states. Emperor Conrad started building of the Imperial Cathedral of Speyer in 1030. In 1061, the Cathedral was consecrated. It was meant to impress not only with its size, but it’s pomp and majesty as well. 


On the back of the Cathedral, the most eastern point is a carving. The Christians of the day believed Jesus would come from the east. This carving is of children riding on lions and sticking their hand into the mouth of a poisonous snake. According to the Bible, the children could do this and be unharmed in Paradise.  

The Cathedral is on the east side of Speyer, because the east was where Jesus would come from. Inside it is enormous, but pretty plain. There are 12 columns representing the 12 months of the year, and 6 domes in the ceiling representing Monday through Saturday. The seventh dome is above the Nave and represents Sunday. In 1981, the Cathedral was added to the UNESCO list of “World Cultural Heritage”.

The Cathedral has been saved from disasters as it was not bombed during WWII. Speyer is the home of the Airbus factory and in WWII it was building airplanes. The airplane factory was the target of the bombing, so the Cathedral was spared. A large crypt lies beneath the chancel and is the final resting place of four emperors, four kings and three empresses. 

Some of the buildings outside the Cathedral have been destroyed, such as the cloisters. A statue which was originally in the center of the cloisters is still standing. The statue is of Jesus praying at the Mount of Olives. 

Speyer was an important center for Ashkenazic Jews. In 1084, Speyer’s Bishop invited Jews to settle in Speyer from nearby towns. It was a business development move since moneylending was forbidden for Christians and the city needed on for the new cathedral it was building. In return, the bishop offered rights and protections that until then were unprecedented in Europe.

In front of the Cathedral is a huge bowl. When a new bishop comes to Speyer, he is escorted to near the front of the Cathedral where the huge bowl is sitting. Each new bishop has to fill the bowl with wine. The tradition continues even today. The townspeople stand around and everyone gets a small glass of the wine. The bowl holds 1500 liters of wine! 

Another tidbit from our guide, during the Middle Ages, only people who lived in cities were free. One of the reasons towns such as Speyer were walled, was not only for defense, but to control the people trying to enter the city to become free. You had to live in the city for 1 year and 1 day to be a citizen of the city and considered free.

The Main Street is directly in front of the Cathedral, and a city gate is at the west entrance to  the city.

A portion of the east gate and wall is still standing behind the Cathedral.

Walking down the Main Street is what I have previously referred to as a Maypole in Munich. This pole actually has signs on it indication the services, provided by hand, of the residents in the city. 

The old part of town is not a large, but it seems like we never quite have enough time to explore as much as I would like to. Other people me met were able to get into the Lutheran church which has beautiful stained glass windows inside, but it was not open when we went by, so we missed seeing the Lutheran Church.

We did manage to get a couple gelatos….

Our group met at the big bowl in front of the Cathedral when our 1 hour of free time was up, and we walked a good distance to our buses, which then drove us to Worms, Germany where we met up with our boat. 

We got to see the airplane factory, who announced their presence this way: 

This afternoon, while the boat moved from Worms to Rudesheim on the Rhine was basically free time, which was great! 

At 6:15pm we are departing for our dinner in Rudesheim. We were transported to the restaurant in a little tram. We were able to get a table for 9, which was a group of us that were in the “blue group” on our pre-cruise extension. 

Left to right, Dave, Weldon, BZ, Cecelia, me, Dave, Carol, Art and Karen

This was when we were in Oberammergau and Innsbruck. So most of the people in the blue group ended up in basement cabins on the ship including us. We booked late, and there were only 2 staterooms available, both in the basement, or cheap seats. However, there were 3 people in the blue group that had balcony cabins. When we all discovered we were being treated as 2nd class citizens, we hung together as the blue group. So, 9 people from the blue group went to this dinner, and 2 of the couples were celebrating their anniversary. It was a really cute restaurant, and it was located on one of the oldest streets in Rudesheim. Rudesheim  seems to be a big partying town, and we were there on a a Saturday night, which made the atmosphere even more party like. There was a one person musician band, and he was playing a lot of American music such as Sweet Caroline and West Virginia. Of course our group was singing right along with those songs. We had 3 bottles of wine on the table: a white, a rose, and a red. For the first round, most took the white so they brought a second bottle of white. We were all drinking pretty freely, singing along, and having a good time. On the table when we sat down was bread, and a spread of some sort, which nobody seemed to care for.  We later found out it was lard and not butter. The first course of the meal was two slices of a sausage that tasted a lot like halogenated, a salad, and another spread, which tasted much better than the lard. The next course was potato’s soup. It was very tasty with a couple of vegetables and maybe some bacon lardons. The third course was a couple of slices of pork, mashed potatoes and a cabbage medley. After dinner we got a shot of some type of schnapps. Then, the dessert was a cheesecake. The captain showed up and was dancing with our cruise director. They honored one lady who was celebrating her birthday and two couples celebrating their anniversary. Everyone was clapping to the music and having a good time. 

Left to right Restaurant owner?, Carol, Art (celebrating their anniversary), BZ, Weldon ( celebrating their anniversary), our cruise director, our captain

As I was walking out, an Asian guy grabbed my arm and asked where we were from. So  everyone knew we were having a good time. I was caught off guard by the Asian guy, and just  said Florida! 

Our restaurant

Rudesheim looks to be a fun town, and the fact it was Saturday night didn’t hurt!

Little street in Rudesheim.

We had our choice of walking back to the boat or taking the little train back. Dave and I opted to walk, and it wasn’t very far. It gave us a chance to walk along the water, and the train tracks! Two trains came by as we walked back. 

July 8, 2022 ((Friday): The boat is docked in Kiel, Germany, but we will be crossing the river to visit Strasbourg, France. We will be back and visit Strasbourg again in December, on our Christmas markets cruise.  We have an included tour this morning. First we ride on the bus and our guide points out a lot of buildings, most of which aI can’t remember. I do remember that one of the buildings is a consortium of European nations, and another building is the consortium of European Union countries. The guide tells us that this part of France, and Moselle, has been German and then France several times. The children learn the Alsace dialect as toddlers, but when they start school, Hal’s the lessons are in French and half are in German. Once they start middle school, they start learning English. I think it is pathetic that Americans do not learn more languages starting in the primary grades. 

So first we had a bus tour, and then we did a walking tour with our guide. We ended at the Strasbourg Norte Dame Cathedral. The Norte Dame Cathedral has an astronomical lock. Which is very interesting. However, it is not the original. It has been reworked, but still based on the original. 

Notre Dame Cathedral in Strasbourg
Astronomical Clock
Stained glass window showing different scenes reflecting the passion of Christ
Rose window

After we left the Cathedral, we were on our own, with prearranged shuttles back to our boat. It was about 11:30am, and we have a map with sights of interest. We have already seen Norte Dame, so the next on the sights is Madison Kammerzell. It is one of the most famous buildings in Strasbourg, one of the most ornate, and well preserved medieval buildings. It was built in 1427 but renovated in 1467 and 1589. It is no longer a private dwelling, but now houses a restaurant.

We were hungry, and we thought by walking through the market we might find a place to eat. Besides, I just love the European markets. 

No luck finding a restaurant close to the market, so we started looking for a restaurant. In my mind, I wanted a French restaurant but we kept finding Chinese, Italian, Lebanese, etc. I did not want to sit outside  because that’s where all the smokers are. We finally decided on Europe Cafe. Not the cutest, but we were hungry and they had French entrees. I had Quiche Lorraine and Dave had Chicken Cordon Bleu. Of course we had wine with our meal. 

Quiche Lorraine
Cordon Bleu

After lunch, we had a couple more spots on our list of sights to see. We walked to the covered bridge. It’s interesting, because our guide pointed this out as a dam. When we got there, we discovered the dam was a little bit down the river. This may have been a dam at some point, but now it is a covered Brugge, with bathrooms! We were able to walk to the top of the bridge and get a nice view of what the locals call “Little France”. At some point, there was a hospital built in this area because many people were getting sick with what was called the “French  Disease”. Subsequently it was called Syphilis. 

We climbed to the top and had a nice view of “Little France”.

Tanning and tanneries became an important part of the Little France area. They built their homes alongside the river to have easy access to the water they needed. The tanners house had an open gallery under the roof, which was used for drying hides.

The covered bridge was part of the cities defense system from the 13th to the 17th centuries. Three of the brick built towers have survived.  

Next we walked to St. Nicholas Church. It was closed, so we could not go in. Standing on a Roman site, the church was built on the location of a chapel dedicated to Marie-Madeline in the 12th century.The church was rebuilt in 1381 and 1387 and dedicated to St. Nicholas, Parton Saint of sailors. Before he left. For Lambarene in the Gabon, the doctor and future Nobel Prize winner Albert Schweitzer was minister here.

From gardens were locked up in a cage on the bridge where they were mocked by passers-by before being thrown into the water.We had to be back to the meeting spot, so the last site on our list was the “Bridge of Tortures”.in 1411 a law was introduced instructing those sentenced to death to be sewn up in a linen sack and thrown into the water.This custom continued until 1617. From 1466 onwards, thieves and people stealing  from gardens were locked up in a cage and passers-by would mock them. Then they were thrown into the river and forced to swim to safety. 

Late this afternoon we had a cooking demonstration onboard. Then after dinner we had a music trivia contest the team we were on came in 3rd! That is tremendous for us as we are usually last. 

July 7, 2022 (Thursday): The boat is docked in Breisach, Germany. We will be back here in December on our Christmas market cruise. This morning we have an included excursion into the Black Forest. We have a really good guide, he is from Toronto, Canada. We have an hour drive from the boat to the Black Forest, so our guide tells us all kinds of interesting tidbits on the long drive. One thing he tells us is the farmers have hired professional hunters to kill wild boars. But the hunters will not eat the wild boars they kill because the wild boars are radioactive. Apparently, when Chernobyl exploded, some of the dust blew over this area. The mushrooms that grow here absorb the radioactive dust, and the wild boars love mushrooms. Thus the boars get radioactive from the mushrooms they eat. Many of the old farms in this area are built so the farm equipment can be driven directly into the top level, and then the farm families live below. In olden times, the roofs were made of sod, which drew various vermin. Smoke from the residences helped eliminate the vermin, but the smoke unbeknownst to the residents, killed the residents at early ages. These roofs were also prone to catch fire.

Example of very old house with sod roof

We drove to Hofgut Sternen, which is a village in the Black Forest. It is thought that this area is more than 700 years old. Marie Antoinette paused through here on the way to her wedding to French King Louis XVI. Hofgut meant it was self sufficient. We took a walk with one of the guides into the forested area. One thing we passed was a bridge, which was strategic in WWII.  The allies kept trying to destroy the bridge, but they weren’t successful. But before the Germans surrendered, they destroyed the bridge. It has been rebuilt and trains cross the bridge daily.

Bridge with train crossing

While walking we passes some interesting forested areas. We crossed bridges over streams and the scenery was beautiful.


Back in the area of the settlement, someone was blowing glass, however he was working on heating the glass when we were there. We did not wait for him to actually blow the glass. We saw a demonstration on making a Black Forest cake. This is a little false, because all the pieces of the cake was already made, and the demonstrator just assembled the pieces. Apparently, there is a considerable amount of cherry schnapps in the original recipe. 

It takes a lot of whipped cream!
Finished product!

We skipped the cuckoo clock demonstration, but this location has what is suppose to be the biggest cuckoo clock in the world. One of the buildings had a 6 Sided star on a sign. Our guide said said 4 sided star meant food was available. A six sided star meant food and a bed were available. An eight sided star meant food, beds and stable space for horses was available. 

After visiting the Black Forest, we were bused back to the ship for lunch. After lunch, Dave and I signed up for a walking tour of medieval Colmar. Colmar is a cute and picturesque village with half-timbered houses, flowers and little streams running through the village. We saw a replica of the Statue of Liberty and discovered the designer of the Statue of Liberty, Augusta Bartholdi, came from Colmar. I assume the draping is suppose to show support for Ukraine, but the color of the draping is not quite right.

The inside of the Statue of Liberty was designed by Eiffel, but Augusta Bartholdi designed the  statue. We saw Bartholdi’s house, and other statues he designed. 

In the old times, houses were taxed on the size of the ground floor. People would design their houses in a step fashion so the upper floors would be larger than the ground floor, thus reducing their taxes. 

Note how upper floors stick out over ground floor


The smallest house in Colmar, about 100 square feet, and they paid no taxes. The house has now been incorporated into neighboring buildings. 

This building, built in 1609, is called the house of heads because there 105 grotesque heads decorating the facade. 

The Pfister house was built in 1537 by a wealthy man who earned his fortune in silver mines.

Colmar has gondolas like Venice, but I think they are mostly a tourist attraction. They also have motors, where the Venice gondolas do not. 

Our guide pointed out signs on the building that would describe what trade was in the building. This one was a beer mug inside a star. According to our guide, the Star of David hysteria we think of as the Jewish symbol was not limited to use by Jews in antiquity. The Jewish community of Prague was the first to use the Star of David as its official symbol, probably in the 17th century. The star was almost universally adopted by Jews in the 19th century. 

Note beer inside six pointed star

 Another sample of a sign indicating a butcher shop.

Storks are a symbol of the Rhine River area, and the storks have a huge nest on top of the  cathedral. Storks are monogamous and return to the same nest for years. Their offspring will also return to the same nest, so the nests can become very big and very heavy, but they are protected by the government.  

This cathedral was under construction, too, and archeologists were working around the outside as they founds bones during renovation work.

July 6, 2022 (Wednesday): Today was mostly about travel from Innsbruck to Basel, Switzerland to join the Viking Sigrun, our river cruise. Dave snapped a shot of the mountains from our stateroom before we left, as the clouds from yesterday have pretty much disappeared to give us a nice view.

We have a new bus driver, who hopefully will not get lost, and we have lost two people! We do not know the details of the people that have left. We drive towards Basel, and see interesting villages along the way.

Cute village in valley, with two churches

We made a pit stop, and then we stopped in Vaduz, Lichtenstein for lunch. This was a bonus for me because Lichtenstein is the 4th smallest country in Europe after Monaco, the Vatican and San Marino (in Italy). It is also the 6th smallest country in the world. I never imagined that I would visit Lichtenstein, so I was excited to hear we would stop at its capital for lunch. We only had 1 hour and 45 minutes, so we could not spend much time there. However, it is a very small country. We had lunch at the Hotel Adler. They had a great outdoor area, but because we did not have reservations, we had to eat inside. Dave had wine of course, and I had Lichtenstein beer!   

Hotel Adler, where we had lunch
Waiting for our sandwiches

We both had sandwiches, which I forgot to take pictures of. After lunch, we walked around a little – of course I wish we had about an hour more time, but it was a small town.

Building with our location!
Lichtenstein is a Principality, and this is the palace
Government Building

Before we left, we had some gelato! On the bus, just after leaving Lichtenstein, we saw this covered bridge, which I think is crossing the Rhine River.

Covered bridge


We got to Basel about 4:30 and shortly there after our boat left the dock. We do not have a great stateroom, we are in the basement! Thus, in many ways, we are treated as 3rd class, which explains some of our bus issues and hotel issues. We had a long indoctrination discussion on board. We had a muster drill where we had to put our life preservers on and meet at a central location on the ship. Then we had dinner. One of the anytime entrees is an 8oz rib eye, which I thought was pretty impressive. Tonight we had goat cheese soufflé for an appetizer. I had a pork and dumpling entree and Dave had Halibut. I had a fruit plate for desert and Dave had wine for desert. We ate with people we met on the bus. They got stuck on our 3rd class blue group bus, even though they have better staterooms on the boat.


July 5, 2022 (Tuesday): We are staying at the Penz West hotel for 2 nights, which is about 2 miles from the Innsbruck old town. 

The name Innsbruck comes from “Inn” which is the river that runs through the town, and “Bruck” which is derived from bridge. So it was the bridge over the Inn River. It was originally settled by the Romans before the 4th century. In the 4th or 5th century there was a church and in 1138, a monastery was referred to in historical documents. In 1187, an official document names the place “Innsprucke”. 

After breakfast the Viking bus drove us towards the old town to meet up with our guide, Willie, for a walking tour. We walked through the Imperial Gardens which have existed since the early 15th century, but at that time, only royals and members of the high court were allowed in. We walked past St. Jakob Cathedral, but due to renovations, we were not allowed to go in. This cathedral holds the tomb of Maximilian III, Archduke of Austria from 1612 until his death in 1618. The front was fenced off, and behind the fence were archeologists working, as during the renovation, tombs were found in front of the church. 

Our guide pointed out the town tower, dated around 1444. The bottom of the tower looks different than the top because the top toppled during an earthquake and was rebuilt.

Town Tower

The Golden Roof is a very famous landmark in Innsbruck. The building where the golden roof is located, was constructed in the early 1400’s to be a residence for the rulers of Tyrol, one of the states of Austria. A later ruler, Maximilian I, commissioned a loggia of the facade of the building, with a roof of 2,657 fire-gilded copper tiles. The upper balcony served as a royal box where the emporer and his wife could enjoy festivals and tournaments in the square below. Our guide said 6 pounds of gold leaf had been applied to the copper tiles. 

The Imperial Palace was a residential compound of the Habsburg. The palace was initially constructed in 1460 and had a moat in front. Empress Maria Theresa, the only female ruler of Austria, made Baroque changes to the palace and filled in the moat. The moat is now a paved road. The palace is open in the center, and the front was the administrative building and the back was apartments for bureaucrats. In the center they hold regular concerts now.

The main shopping street in Innsbruck is Maria-Theresa Street,  named after Empress Maria Theresa. It is a pedestrian street. All of the old town of Innsbruck is pedestrian only. Delivery vehicles are allowed until 10:30am, but after that, no vehicles are allowed. On Maria-Theresa Street is St. Anne’s column, erected in 1706 to commemorate the defeat of Bavarian invaders in 1703. The Virgin Mary is on the top of the column, and St. Anne is one of the saints represented at the bottom. 

Innsbruck used to be a very religious place and many of the buildings have religious paintings on them.  


This is St. Christopher protecting Jesus while crossing a river

 Another building that our guide pointed out was “The wedding cake building” because of the decorated exterior.

Our guide was full of information and historical details, and he was very interesting. 

After our walk, we went into the Swarovski store, which the guide said was the biggest Swarovski store in the world. Viking did offer an optional tour to the Swarovski factory, but wdecided not to go. However, I took a (quite a ) few pictures in the Swarovski store.   

Christmas Stars
Birds!
Movie characters
This was so cool in the lights I had to take a close up (note: 8,000€)
Animals!
Close up of Elephants
Close up of zebras
Costume, but I don’t know the movie
cool chandelier

Another tour was the Nordkette cable car that goes to the top of the Nordkette mountain range. We did not sign up for the Viking tour, as I thought we’d wait until we got to Innsbruck and decide then if we wanted to go up on our own. On own own, it costs almost $50 per person.  We did not go up, because the mountain had a thick cloud cover, and we would not have been able to see much. We had some rain as well, and we’d duck into stores when we wanted to get out of the rain.

We did go to Cafe Sacher for “lunch”. This is the original Sacher-Torte only available in Sacher Cafes in Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck and Graz. I had the Sacher Torte with whipped cream, coffee, and sparkling water. Dave had Apple Strudel with Vanilla ice cream and a glass of wine. He was also served a glass of water. I thought the torte was dry, and Dave was not impressed   with the strudel, but he said the ice cream was good. 

Sacher Torte with coffee, whipped cream and water
Apple strudel and red wine

At that point, we had pretty much walked all over the old town, but we visited a few more shops. I saw a sign for “Cafe 360” which billed itself as a wine bar and convinced Dave to check it out. It was on the top of an 8 story building and was a round glass structure. We got glasses of wine and enjoyed the views over the city. We actually had a great view of the ski jump used in the Olympics. It was a nice little break, but I didn’t like my glass of wine ☹️. 

Wine at Cafe 360 degrees
Olympic ski jump

We walked back to the shuttle bus stop. Viking was suppose to have a shuttle bus at 2:30 to take us back to the hotel, but apparently the driver got lost (same driver that missed the turn to Oberammergau) and did not pick us up until after 3:00. 

We have decided to rest at our hotel the rest of the evening and eat dinner here. The old town of Innsbruck is charming and interesting, but we feel like we’ve seen what we want to see.

We had dinner in the hotel restaurant. Dave liked his red beef curry so much that we both had that for dinner tonight.

Red Beef Curry with rice


July 4, 2022 (Monday): This morning we left our hotel in Garmisch-partenkirchen, Germany. At breakfast they had a really neat wine station:

I think Dave should put one of these in our house. We met in the lobby at the appointed time, and drove back almost to Oberammergau to the Ettal Abbey. We waited for other Viking groups to arrive, probably an hour. Then we have this huge group of probably 100 people on the tour. We are taken into the Abbey church by an official abbey guide. He comments this is the largest group he’s had. His sound system sucks with lots of reverberation so it is very hard to understand what he is saying. It is a Benedictine Abbey with about 50 monks. The abbey was founded in 1330 by Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian, which is NOT the same Ludwig that built the fairytale castles. In fulfillment of a vow on his return from his coronation in Rome, his horse genuflected three times on the site of the original church building. A marble statuette of the Madonna and child is in the church on that spot. The statuette was brought from Pisa as a gift for the church. The church is dedicated to the “Assumption of the Blessed Virgin”. While the church has been damaged and rebuilt over the years, it is really beautiful inside. There are paintings on the walls and on the ceiling. It is divided into two sections with the larger part for church services, and the smaller part for the monks to fit, which is closer to the Madonna statue.

Church from outside
Larger part of church looking through the archway to where the monks sit
Ceiling painting
Ludwig’s horse that genuflexed
Madonna brought from Pisa

This tour took maybe 45 minutes, even with the large group of people. After our tour, we had to wait again, but I’m not sure what we were waiting for. Finally we left, driving through the Ammergau Alps to the hamlet of Mittenwald.

Mountains!

Mittenwald is famous for making violins and there is a museum there. Our guide explained how to get to the museum to do the tour, however, we only had about an hour, maybe an hour and 15 minutes to eat lunch on our own, which meant finding a place. Yes, I’m a little perturbed because I feel a lot of time was wasted at the abbey waiting before and after the tour. If there was more time in Mittenwald, maybe we could have walked around and explored more. We would not be interested in the violin museum tour, but others may have been. We did have a nice lunch, sitting with two other people, Karen and Terry, on our bus. We had pizzas, beer and wine. I wanted to get a gelato, but Dave spotted a store where he could buy a bottle of wine, and we only had about 10 minutes before we were suppose to be back at the bus. Of course, the wine purchase won.

Lunch in Mittenwald


Pretty flowers near restaurant where we had lunch

Leaving Mittenwald, we drove to Innsbruck. Unfortunately our hotel is about 2 miles from the city center. However, it is a very nice hotel. We arrived about 3:00 and had plans to somehow go into Innsbruck, but after our long day yesterday, and 6 hours of sleep, once we sat down in our room, we were going anywhere. Later, we ate at the hotel, Penz West. I had wiener smitzel with parsley potatoes and salad, Dave had Red Beef curry Thai with rice. Both were delicious. We crashed early, hoping for a better day tomorrow.

View from our hotel in Innsbruck

July 3, 2022 (Sunday):  A long day today. We drove from Munich to Oberammergau, with our bus driver missing his turn to Oberammergau, giving us a bit of delay. Oberammergau is a picturesque Bavarian town. The houses are timbered and some have Lüftlmalerei, which are murals painted on the outside walls. While this style of art can be found in Southern Germany and Austria, it probably started in Oberammergau in the 1700’s.


House with intricate wood carving that I thought was interesting

We have a lunch before the performance, and about an hour spare time after lunch before getting in line for the performance. No pictures, but this was our menu and we had the pork.

We had the pork



You are not allowed to take much into the theater. One bottle of water, and a small backpack. We had to go through security, with the men and women in separate lines. They checked my backpack and did a body search over my clothes.

On theater building
Above entrance
Cross high on hill as seen from theater


Of course no photos are allowed during the performance, but Dave got a picture of the stage before the play began.

The stage is not covered, but the seating area is. The huge theater, seating 4200 people, was built in 1900. Our tickets cost 201€ each. Since we are on a tour with Viking, everything for Oberammergau is arranged – food, hotels, transportation, tickets, etc. We only need to buy personal items. In 2022, performances take place 5 days a week, from May until early October. The performance is the Passion of Christ, but between scenes, the choir sings and there are tableaus of scenes from the Bible, such as Adam and Eve with the apple tree in the background, Daniel in the Lions den, etc. The play is totally in German, but we were given books with the translation. It is not easy to follow along, but we did follow it pretty well. Even the songs from the choir were translated for us. The performance is 5 hours long, but broken into two parts of 2.5 hours, starting at 2:30. So we had a 3 hour intermission at 5:00 and went to dinner. Viking put on a nice dinner – we had a choice of Salmon or beef, and bottles of red and white wine. Again, I forgot to take a picture. The second half started at 8:00 finished a little after 10:30, so we were very tired. There are over 170 Viking passengers, split into 6 groups, with each group at a different hotel. We got to our hotel about midnight, and we stayed in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany for the night.

The bubonic plague devastated Bavaria during the Thirty Years War (1618 – 1648). Half of Oberammergau’s population would die. In 1633, the villagers vowed that if God spared them from the plague, they would perform a play every 10 years depicting the life and death of Jesus. After that vow, none of the villagers died of the plague, and with few exceptions, such as coronavirus, the play had been presented every 10 years. Over the years, many dignitaries have attended, such as Dwight Eisenhower, Pope Pius XI before he became pope, Pope Benedict XVI before he became pope, Rockefeller, Vanderbilts, Kings, etc. 

In 1990, three women from Oberammergau won a court case that enabled married women and unmarried women over 35 years of age to perform in the play. In 2000, rights governing participation in the play were changed, allowing those living in Oberammergau who were not Christian or German citizens could participate. This meant that Muslims could participate. In 2000, 1600 adults and 550 children performed in 110 performances with 520,000 spectators.

I love the window boxes with flowers, and they are all over the place.

July 2, 2022 (Saturday):  Not much action today. We got everything packed up from our hotel near the center and took a taxi to our Viking hotel, Munich Garden Hilton. We were able to check in right away, and met with the Viking tour directors. Our director is Maria. We dropped off our stuff in the room and headed our to find lunch. We found a cute outside restaurant, Leib & Steele. 

The menu was not extensive, but the Scandinavian breakfast was calling my name. Scrambled eggs with shrimp, smoked salmon with horseradish crème sauce, yogurt with fruit, and fresh breads, which were delicious. Dave had sausages with sauerkraut, and some of the bread. 

I keep forgetting to take a picture BEFORE I take a bite ☹️
Dave had taken a few bites, too.

After lunch we had a couple of things we wanted to find – Diet Coke for Dave and a new lock for my suitcase as the one I had broke. We found the Diet Coke pretty quick, but the luggage lock was more difficult. We ended up walking back to Marianplaz, which is about 2 miles from our new hotel, and found a great store, Globetrotters. The problem was figuring out how to get in. I swear, we walked up a flight of stairs and around the outside of the whole store, before we finally found an entrance. This store was all about camping and traveling, so they had luggage locks. We had to get back to our hotel for our meeting with our Viking tour director by 5:00, and it was already 3:30. Walking back, Dave got a picture of the trolleys used in Munich. 

But, we got back in plenty of time, spent a few minutes recovering and then went to the Viking meeting. We cannot take anything into the theater at Oberammergau e crept a bottle of water. People with mobility devices were warned the only thing they could take into the theater was a collapsable cane. Pretty tough for those needing a Walker or wheelchair. There are very strict entry requirements. We will have a very long day tomorrow. After the meeting, we decided we wanted pizza for dinner, and I googled a place, Taverna Del Sud. When we got there, they said no pizza. We checked the menu and decided we’d have pasta. So we sat down and I ordered lasagna. No lasagna. I ended up with spaghetti with meat sauce. Dave got rigatoni pasta with ham and peas in cream sauce (he asked them to hold the mushrooms, which they did). Our waiter was very friendly and kidded with us and a couple sitting next to us, Oneida and Mike. It happens they are on the same tour we are (174 people I think they said). I forgot to take pictures of our food.   But remembered to get a picture of the wine!


We are broken down into groups and our group is blue with 20 people. There are about 6 groups and each group is in a different hotel, determined by your color. We will probably end up in the dumpiest ☹️.

July 1, 2022 (Friday): We get home two weeks from today…but looking forward to our River cruise and the Passion play. We join our Viking tour tomorrow.  Today it was rainy and cool. We did not get moving early, but put the “please clean” note on our door at 10:30am and went to the lobby to read for awhile. We returned at 11:30am, and room hadn’t been cleaned, so we went back down to the lobby until noon. When we returned, room still hadn’t been cleaned. There was a cart near our door and Dave asked why our room hadn’t been cleaned. The guy (men clean the rooms) said it wasn’t in his area and to call housekeeping. We called, and they came pretty quick, but we obviously wasted almost 2 hours. I don’t think it really mattered though because we didn’t plan on doing much with the rain and cold. After the room was cleaned, we got ready to face the weather. Our plan is to walk to the Hofbrauhaus for lunch, which is what we did. That place is always crazy busy. It was 5 years ago, and it still is. We got .5 liters of beer with our lunch as it is a beer garden! We both ordered veal sausages with homemade mustard sauce. For side dishes, I ordered bread dumplings and Dave ordered potato salad.

Dave likes lager and I like dark beer
I took one bite of my sausage before taking the picture ☹️ and I did take a picture of Dave’s potato salad
Girl selling pretzels
Reminds me of the Clydesdales
Locked up beer steins that belong to the regulars. some of the locks were really old style!
Page 1 of the menu
Page 2 of the menu
Back page of menu

I decided to include pictures of the menu. I thought the dumplings I had yesterday was potato dumplings which is why I ordered bread dumplings today. I am not crazy about either of the dumplings I had yesterday or today. They seem gelatinous. The gravy they serve with them is very good though.

After eating, we walked through the Hofbrauhaus gift shop. They had a really cute post card to send to kids, so we bought two for Mia and Lily. When we bought them, we asked about postage, and the clerk sent us a couple blocks away. We went there, but it was just mailboxes, they did not sell postage. Fortunately there was a person there, and he gave us the address of a place where we could buy postage. It may have been a mile away, but what else were we going to do on a rainy day. As we were walking there, we remembered the area as it must be a Jewish quarter. I remember I dropped my iPad and broke the screen last time I was here. We find the place, and it’s like a DHL office, but they said they could sell us postage. I was just going to buy the postage and write the cards later, but I had to write the cards and address them before they would sell us postage. Also, they did not take credit cards – we had to pay cash! I think we paid 7.4€ to mail two postcards, and Dave has no confidence that Mia and Lily will ever receive them. That was our adventure of the day. I have never had so much trouble sending a post card!

On the way back to the hotel, we walked through the market and bought a little more cheese from the same store as yesterday. We figured if we bought a little more cheese and a bottle of wine, we’d have enough leftovers from yesterday to use for dinner tonight.

June 30, 2022 (Thursday):  We usually just have a breakfast bar each morning, but ran out of our supply before flying to Munich. So when we checked in, they told us there was a bakery downstairs. Downstairs is underneath the hotel, and is where you catch the subway. At each station, underground, there are all sorts of stores. Besides the bakery, which is kind of a coffee stand with fresh pastries, there’s an Aldi grocery, a “Hit” grocery, a Chinese restaurant, a jewelry store, a Subway sandwich shop, and a bunch more little stores. The Hit grocery is huge. Anyway, this morning we went down to the bakery and got a couple of pastries, coffee for me and Diet Coke for Dave. Then we headed out to walk around. We have no big sites that we want to see as we were here about 5 years ago and saw everything that we wanted to see. We thought about going to Dachau, but decided against it as it is just so depressing. We saw so much of the Jewish history when we were here 5 years ago. It is just too hard to stomach the atrocities. 

As we headed to the open air market, we passed an old wall of the city from the mid 1400’s. 

At the market, I told Dave I wished we had one of these close to us. He said, “We do. It’s called Publix”. It’s not the same, Dave. He even found a vendor that interested him. 

Dave checking out the wine 😁

Flowers in the market:

Flowers!
Cheese!

There are some statures, a May pole, and tons of vendors selling everything. Flowers, wine, cheese meats, etc.

We decided we’d wander and come back later for lunch. Actually, it was 11:45, so we walked to the Marienplatz which is where the Rathaus-Glockenspiel preforms daily at 11:00am, 12:00 noon, and 5:00pm. It was perfect that we were there at noon. We have seen it before, but it is always cool to see. It is the largest carillon in Germany. It has two floors. The top floor represents the marriage of Duke Wilhelmina to Renate von Lothringen, celebrated in February, 1568, on the occasion of which a knights tournament (a joust) took place on the Marienplatz. As the figures circulate, there is actually a representation of a knights tournament and one knight knocks back the other knight.

The second level is a coopers dance. The barrel makers are said to be the first to venture out into the streets after a severe plague epidemic and cheered up the populace with their dance.

After the upper layer plays, and the second layer plays, there is a golden bird above both levels that flaps his wings.

Lots of tourists fill the Marienplatz to watch the spectacle. Of course we have seen it before, but it is a highlight for any trip to Munich. The whole clock striking 12, the upper level, lower level and bird takes almost 15 minutes. We had an added attraction today – the Goodyear blimp passed in back of the tower while the performance was going on.

I bought a SIM card in London, and it is giving me sporadic coverage in Munich. What is really cool is I can use my translate app, take a picture of something in German, and my app translates it! It is really cool! 

Dave and I wander some more, but everything is familiar because of being here before. We did walk over to the Hofgarden which is next to the Munich Residenz Palace, the family palace of the kings of Bavaria. We had peeked into some stores on the way over but not in these – definitely some expensive shopping: Rolex watches, Prada, Louie Vuitton. By this time we were getting hungry, and we decided to go back to the market area. It is not always easy for us to find a place to eat. One place did not take credit cards, lots of places didn’t have a table in the shade, lots of the outdoor dining allows smoking which we don’t deal with. Plus, they have to have a menu with food we both like! Picky, picky, picky. We found a place, Zum Alten Market.

Dave had Weiner Schnitzel

and I had roast pork

We both had beers, and Dave said the beer tasted so good he might start drinking beer instead of wine. 😂😂😂. 


After lunch, we were stuffed, and decided to shop in the market for a dinner in our hotel room. We bought crackers, 3 kinds of cheese, salami and olives.

Cheese store

We walked back to the hotel and we needed some breakfast bars for the next couple of days. So we went down under the hotel to Aldi and Hit supermarkets and found a bottle of wine (!), some Pringles, potato chips (my downfall) and even some breakfast bars!

June29, 2022 (Wednesday):  We leave today for Munich. Everything is packed, but we figure there is no rush such our flight is not until 4:25pm and checkout is noon. We checked out about 11:45, used a trolley for our luggage and walked over to Terminal 4 to catch the tube to terminal 2. It was a bit of a wait for some reason – usually the tube trains runs every few minutes. Terminal 2 is a bit of a walk from the tube station, and when we go to enter, there are security people only allowing passengers inside. This is a change, as we have been in terminal 2 and terminal 5 a few times. All they are checking is for passports, so not sure how they can tell we are passengers or not. We show them our passports and they let us by. We find where we are suppose to check our bags, and it is a system we’ve never seen before. There are 4 stations, A through D, and your checkin information tells you what station to go to. We are assigned B. First you use a terminal to identify yourself and what flight your on. Then you enter how many bags you have and it prints out the luggage tags. Then you wait in line to get to one of about 15 people who weigh your luggage and send it down the conveyor belt. This is for many airlines, not just Lufthansa which is what we’re flying today. After getting rid of our big bags we head to security where you have to remove all your liquids and put them in a quart baggie, which is the same as in the US. All liquids are suppose to be under 100ml (3 oz in US). On all the flights I’ve been on for a number of years, I usually our my contact lens solutions in a separate bag, because they are somewhat exempted from everything you can stuff into one quart size bag. This time they required makeup to be in the bag, so Dave took my contact lens solution and put it in his bag. But, between the two of us, we had all our liquids in two quart size bags. Then we wait in another huge line to get our bags X-rayed and our quart bags of liquid examined. The baggie nazi inspector took my contact lens solution bottle and said it was too big (103ml instead of 100). She missed my fingernail polish remover which is 4 oz. Fortunately, I have more packed in our checked bags – assuming they reach Munich. So we go through security. I had nothing in my pockets, but I set off the sensors (my jewelry?), soI had to go through the puffer. But, they let me through. This whole process of checking bags and going through security took a little over 2 hours! We checked the menus on the restaurants and finally settled on sharing a Chicken and shrimp pad Thai. Dave said it was not picture worthy. It was just OK. Heathrow does not post gate information until about 15 minutes before boarding starts. So ours was supposed to be posted at 3:45, for 4:00 boarding. But…it wasn’t posted for a few minutes, and a little panic runs through me. Finally we get the gate and walk there. We are easily there by 4:00, but they aren’t boarding. They don’t start boarding until about 4:45, and out plane was suppose to leave at 4:25. We get on the plane, and it departs over an hour late. We got to Munich at 8:00PM, but that includes losing an hour. In England, it was 5 hours difference from Eastern Standard time and in Germany it is 6 hours difference. It is an hour ride (and 100€) from the airport to our hotel. We get to the hotel and check in. We are here for 3 nights. Our room was hot and by the time the technician came and fixed it, it was 10:00pm. We went to the restaurant and the kitchen was closed, but they would give us something simple. We had some pasta and wine. It was OK, but not great, and a bit expensive. We’ll have to check out some different local places. 

June 28, (Tuesday): We did not do much today except get our belongings organized for our trip to Munich. We did our online checkin, and I washed out a few items in the hotel sink. We walked to the Green Man Pub again for lunch and we both had Chicken and ham pies. These pies are much better than Swansons Chicken Pot pies. These have a better crust, and more filling.

Walking home we are in the path of jets landing at Heathrow and they fly right over us. After lunch we packed most of our stuff, threw away stuff we no longer needed, and we are ready to leave England after an unexpected 16 day visit. We ate dinner in the hotel cafe, but they were out of our favorite wines and our favorite flatbread. We got a bottle of rioja wine, which was pretty good, we split a hamburger, which is huge with two overcooked Pattie’s, and I got a side of creamed cabbage with bacon, because it is delicious! 

I just have to comment on how clean the subway stations, the buses and the trains are. There is no trash on the tracks! There’s no trash on the floors or inside the buses. Many of the public buses are the red, two story ones like you see on TV, and like the one we rode from Windsor to Heathrow with the loud, obnoxious children.


June 27, 2022 (Monday): Today will be our last planned adventure in England. Our day started really well. Originally we planned to take a 9:45am National Express bus to Winchester, but we got up and got dressed and we’re ready to head out by 8:00am. We have to walk over to terminal 4, take the tube to terminals 2,3 and change to a tube to terminal 5 to catch our bus. Sometimes the tubes run timely, other times there is a long wait. We thought if things went well, there was a chance we’d catch the 8:45am bus. We got to terminal 5, bought our tickets, boarded the 8:45am bus, which immediately left….at 8:42am! The bus left early! 

It was an uneventful ride and we got dropped off in a large parking area just outside of Winchester and found we had to take another local bus to the town center. The National Express driver said the bus into town was free, but it wasn’t. It was a short 15 or 20 minute ride, and we were dropped off right at the Anglo-Saxon King, Alfred the Great. His statue, was placed there in 1901 to celebrate one thousand years since Alfred died. He became king of England and made Winchester his capital in 871. He ruled Wessex until his death in 899. Alfred had successfully defended this area of England, Wessex, against attacks from the Vikings. At that time, whoever ruled Wessex inherited the title of King of England. 

We went to the visitor center and signed up for a 1.5 hour walking tour. Our guide was very knowledgeable, and she made the tour interesting. She was telling us lots of facts and figures about historical kings and historical battles, which I can’t remember. I do remember a few of the stories, however.  We started the walk in a beautifully landscaped garden with a view of the  Alfred the Great statue. 

On the way, I saw this little creature on the sidewalk…he actually was pretty good size! 

Big snail!


 We walked through the garden to a walkway with a huge wall on one side and an interesting garden on the other side.  

Peter Smithers garden

According to our guide, the walking path and the property on both sides belonged to Sir Peter Smithers. Some have suggested he was the inspiration for Ian Flemings “James Bond”. Our guide said he was quite the gardener and that gardeners have to be courageous. He had two trees, a magnolia from South Carolina and another tree native to Italy that adapted to the climate here, where you would not expect them to. This walkway led from the commercial part of the city to the religious part. According to our guide, many monks and religious people walked this path. During the two world wars, many American soldiers passed through Winchester and would have walked this path, too. At the end of the path was a tunnel, which was great because it had started to rain. We sheltered in the tunnel and our guide pointed out lots of centuries old graffiti on the walls.

She pointed out a house where Jane Austen spent a Christmas holiday (There is a lot of Jane Austen history in Winchester). The rain let up a little and when we exited the tunnel, we were on the backside of Winchester Cathedral. (This tour does not go into the Cathedral. Dave and I will do that on our own, later. )  She took us to her favorite tombstone, Thomas Thetcher, who died after drinking a small beer. According to our guide, the person who started Alcoholics Anonymous had seen this tombstone and was inspired to start AA in the USA. However, it was common to drink a small beer at the time of Thomas Thetcher because the water was polluted and the process of fermentation would make the resulting beverage safe to drink.

Our guide pointed out a pub, The Eclipse Inn, that was previously a rectory of St. Lawrence Church. In 1685, Lady Alice Lisle was found guilty of harboring two fugitives from the Monmouth Rebellion. The judge was a “hanging judge”, went into a rage and bullied the jury to return a guilty verdict. The punishment was to be burned at the stake, but the judge later relented and changed the punishment to beheading. Lady Alice Lisle was beheaded on a platform constructed outside The Eclipse Inn. She had to crawl through a window on the second floor to receive her punishment. She was the last women in England sentenced to beheading. Four years after her execution she was pardoned. Supposedly her ghost haunts the Inn.

Lady Alice Lisle had to climb out the windows above ”The Eclipse Inn”

Our guide pointed out other landmarks where castles and fortifications had been, but now we’re only remnants. She took us to an area where a huge castle had been constructed, burned down, later turned into military barracks, and today are million pound (£) flats, with beautiful lavender beds.

The only remnant from this huge castle is the Great Hall. On the way to the great hall, she pointed out a monument to US Soldiers who fought in England during the great wars.

The British promised they would never forget the American Soldiers

Arriving at The Great Hall, the guided walk was over, and we were on our own to explore The Great Hall. The Great Hall was constructed between 1222-1235, commissioned by Henry III. The Great Hall is the home of the “Round Table” of King Arthur and Camelot fame. The Round Table has resided in The Great Hall for over 700 years. In 1976, a team of specialists analyzed the wood and determined it was built between 1250-1280, placing it within the reigns of Henry III and Edward I. Edward I held a grand tournament in Winchester in 1290 to celebrate the betrothal of his children. It is believed the Round Table may have been constructed for this occasion.

Over the years The Great Hall had many uses, including a court of law, and this is where Lady Alice Lisle was tried. There is a bloody looking block (actually painted red) in the Great Hall which I assume is symbolic of Lady Alice Lisle’s beheading.

Today, it is a tourist attraction and home to The round Table which hangs on the wall. There is a huge statue of Queen Victoria.

On the wall opposite the round table are The Wedding Gates. The stainless steel gates commemorate the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana. The key to open the Wedding Gates is in the shape of a “W” to represent Prince William.

The Great Hall has lots of history and symbolism.

We cannot leave The Great Hall as it is pouring rain. So we wait it out for awhile and when the rain lets up, we went in search for a pub for lunch. We checked out The Eclipse Inn, but did not quite like the menu. We checked out another pub and menu, but finally settled on the third pub we found, “The Old Vine”.

They actually pump the beer from kegs.

Interestingly, two of their lights are similar to those Dave and I bought in Venice many years ago.

I had the Ploughman’s lunch and Dave had a meat pie with chicken, ham and leeks. 

Ploughman’s Lunch (yes, I took a bite of the ham)

After lunch it was time to take on Winchester Cathedral.

About 650, King Cenwalh builds a church in Winchester (not the Cathedral). About 828, Winchester becomes the capital of England. 1079, building starts on the Cathedral. Over the years there has been much expansion, remodeling and restoration. One particular fellow that caught our eye was William Walker. In the cathedral there is a memorial to William Walker for saving the Cathedral with his hands. Water running under the Cathedral was weakening the building and he used a divers helmet, with air pumped down to him to strengthen the supports by cleaning out old wood and cementing the foundations. The Cathedral is 558 feet long, Nave width is 82 feet, and has a height of 150 feet. The floor area is 53,480 square feet. There are many tombs in the floor, as well as other locations in the Cathedral. First we visited the treasury, which was a room up some narrow stairs, with no windows, which contained ancient silver chalices, cups, and other silver pieces used in churches, I think mostly from England. The oldest item we saw was a silver paten which is a plate used to carry bread at the Eucharist from 1260.

Back on the main level, we see the grave of Jane Austen.

Jane Austen, One of many graves in the floor of the church

There is a 12th century marble font still used for baptisms.

The Holy Sepulcher Chapel contains 12th and 13th century wall paintings of the Passion of Jesus Christ.

Another chapel has 6 mortuary chests containing the bones of a bishop, a queen, and early kings. These chests are sitting on beams high above the ground. The contents have been examined and the bones only reflect one woman.

Behind the nave is a section referred to as the “quire” which I think is term for where the choir sings during services. In Winchester Cathedral, the quire is the oldest of great medieval quires in England to survive substantially unaltered. There is a lot of graffiti on the walls of the Cathedral which surprised and disgusted us.

While visiting the Cathedral, there was a special exhibition “Kings and Scribes: The Birth of a Nation”. This exhibition gave us an opportunity to view part of the church from above.

Two notable items are a 12th century Winchester Bible, written in hand, and I believe it was 958 pages, but the pages were very big – maybe 20 inches x 14 inches, and the writing is small. The Bible has been analyzed and it is believed to have been written, in Latin, by one person, with no white-out, over 5 years!. We were also able to peek into a library from the 17th century, but couldn’t touch anything. We were not allowed to photograph the bible or the library.

Many hares around Winchester! Here’s some samples!


The fun begins: We were pretty done with touring, it was about 4:00pm and out bus was scheduled at 5:20pm to return to Heathrow near our hotel. We figured we’d get to the bus pickup early, but didn’t really want to do much else. So we headed to the city bus pickup that takes us to the National Express pickup. The city bus came pretty quick and we were at the National Express bus stop by about 4:30. It was cool, with a breeze, with off and on drizzle. Dave was smart enough to bring a book while we waited, but I had nothing to entertain me. At 5:20 we were looking for our bus, as our bus from Heathrow to Winchester this morning had left early, we thought the bus back to Heathrow might be early. One of the city bus drivers told us National Express sometimes runs late because of traffic. So we waited. About 6:00, I tried to call National Express, but their offices close at 5:00. The city bus drivers kept coming by and were sympathetic. While we are waiting, 3 National Express buses, going in the wrong direction came by. We kept questioning their bus drivers, but they were of no help and unwilling to help. One lady city bus driver was very kind and trying to help us. She said her last run back to Winchester was 7:00 and we told her if National Express had not come by then, we would go back to the city with her and catch a train to London. After sitting in the cold, drizzle rain for 2.5 hours, at 7:00, no bus, so we rode back to Winchester with her and she dropped us off at the train station. The bus driver didn’t even charge us for our ride to the train station! She had been very kind and helpful during our wait. The ticket lady at the train was helpful, too, and said she frequently heard of issues with National Express. Our trip to London would require two train changes. She printed out an itinerary for us so we knew which stations we were to switch trains. We only waited minutes before the first train came about 7:30pm. We had no issues changing trains and got into London about 9:00. We found a store selling sandwiches, vodka and wine, which we bought! Then we started looking for the tube to take us to Heathrow. Yes, I needed vodka tonight. The tube station, Paddington, was inside the train terminal, and we were able to get a tube train fairly quick. Probably did not get back to our hotel until 10:00, about 3 hours later than we expected. While riding on the nice, comfortable train, Dave asked why we didn’t use the trains in the first place. I said, our choices were a direct bus, OR, taking the tube into London and then catching 3 different trains to get to Winchester. Obviously, the direct bus looked like the best choice. 🙄

June 26, 2022 (Sunday):  We spent the day in London today. Fortunately the tubes were running, but some were very crowded. We got off the Piccadilly line at Green Park and switched to the Jubilee line getting off at the London Bridge stop. From there we walked to Borough Market. This is a really cool, phenomenal market focusing on food. Borough Market consists of three main areas: Three Crown Square (larger producers and merchants), Green Market (small, specialist produce traders) and Borough Market Kitchen (street food traders). Surrounding the Market, you’ll find a complementary blend of restaurants, bars and shops. They are all individual vendors with foods from England as well as other counties. Fresh vegetables, cheeses from many producers, wine, beer, meat, condiments, etc. Here are some pictures:




Strawberries which can be dipped in chocolate
Big steaks!

One of the vendors making paella
Crowds eating their lunch – not our thing.

I was not very hungry, although I did get a glass of Prosecco, and since we were there during lunchtime, it was packed with people. Dave was getting hungry, probably from looking and sampling some great food, but did not like the idea of sitting shoulder to shoulder with strangers with no table. There are restaurants, but they were packed, too. We decided to look for a pub.

Walking out of the market area was an old cathedral, Southwark Cathedral, the oldest gothic church building in London. In AD 606, it was a convent. In 1106 it was a priory. I didn’t know what a priory was, so I looked it up. It is a monastery of men or women under religious vows.

The church has been expanded and remodeled over the centuries, but they preserved one area which had archeological interest. They found evidence of a Roman road from the 1st century, and a medieval stone coffin, one of several found, possibly from the 13th century. 

Stone coffin possibly from 13th century
Inside of Cathedral
Memorial to William Shakespere in the cathedral
Old wall of cathedral, missing the roof

Walking out of the cathedral, we could see an old ship in dry dock, in an inlet off of the Thames River.

This interesting sign was posted in front of the dry dock:

After visiting the cathedral, we found a pub, “Old Thameside Inn” and it alongside the River Thames, apparently established in 1873.

We got an outside table next to the river.

I got some Scottish salmon and Dave got barbecued brisket with horseradish sauce.

Scottish Salmon
Barbecued brisket

These were “starters” or appetizers because if we eat too much at lunch, we aren’t hungry for dinner until too late. This pub is one that is on the “London Ale & Gin Trail”. 

The bar
View of where we had lunch

After eating, we walked toward St. Paul’s Cathedral, where Princess Diana and Charles were married. We walked across London Bridge, but it is not as eye catching as Tower Bridge.

London Bridge
Tower Bridge

We passed monument square, a monument built on the site of the St. Margaret Fish Market to commemorate the great fire of London. The fire burned from September 2 – 5, 1666. It devastated 2/3 of the city, destroyed 13,200 houses, 87 churches and 52 livery halls. It was built in 1671-1677, designed by Robert Hooke in consultation with Sir Christopher Wren. 

We got to St. Paul’s Cathedral which is where Prince Charles married Lady Diana. Of course, no photography ia allowed onside the Cathedral.

St Paul’s Cathedral is an Anglican Cathedral in London that is the seat of the Bishop of London. The cathedral serves as the mother church of the Diocese of London. Its dedication to Paul the Apostle dates back to the original church on this site, founded in AD 604. The present structure, dating from the late 17th century, was designed in the English Baroque style by Sir Christopher Wren. Its construction, completed in Wren’s lifetime, was part of a major rebuilding program in the city after the Great Fire of London. The earlier Gothic cathedral (Old St. Paul’s Cathedral), largely destroyed in the Great Fire, was a central focus for medieval and early modern London. At 365 feet high,it was the tallest building in London until 1963. The dome remains the highest in the world.

At 365 feet (111 m) high, it was the tallest building in London from 1710 to 1963. The dome remains among the highest in the world. 

Services held at St Paul’s, besides the wedding of Charles and Diana, have included the funerals of Winston Churchill and Margaret Thatcher, and the 80th and 90th birthdays of Queen Elizabeth II.

We happened to get there at 3:00pm for the Evensong and Sermon on the Second Sunday after Trinity Service. The service was very moving, but did not quite follow the program we were given. Being as it is Sunday, we were happy to be able to attend the church service. The choir was made up of adults and young boys, but they are planning to include young girls, too. While the music was beautiful, it was hard to follow the choir when they were singing. But we had the words in our program, so even though we couldn’t understand them, we could read what they were singing. They read two passages from the Bible. The first was about Isaac being deceived by his wife Rebecca and giving his blessing to Jacob instead of Esau. The second was about Jesus returning to his hometown with his disciples and when he began to teach in the synagogue, the elders were offended by his wisdom. Later, after much singing by the choir, the sermon was preached by Rev. Giles Dove, Chaplin, Glamis Castle, in Scotland. Many portions of this Anglican service were similar to our Methodist church. We were very glad we happened to be there for this service.

After the service, we were close to Paternoster Square where there is a sculpture in bronze “The Wild Table of Love”. Julie Rocheleau asked me via Facebook if we had seen it. Since it was so close to St. Paul’s, we went to see it. 

The Wild Table of Love

We got back to the hotel after 6:00pm, and just had appetizers for dinner. We really had a good day in London and felt like we saw alot.

June 25, 2022:  Another transportation strike day, but the buses are running. We plan to walk today. I found a shopping mall and thought we’d go there. I really have not seen any stores that sell clothing except resell shops, of which I’ve seen a lot. It is called The Centre and is 2.7 miles – so a nice hike for us. We walk past several places we’ve been before, like St. Mary’s Church and The Bell on the Green, but The Centre is further away. We get to a place called The Centre, but all the stores are outside. There are sports stores, but no ladies clothing stores. We wandered in and out of some of the stores, but did not buy anything (not even Diet Coke, Pringles, or wine!). We decide to find our pub of the day. There is a pub type restaurant at one corner of the Centre, it’s called “The Moon on the Square”. We go in, and it’s very crowded, probably because it’s about 1:30pm on a Saturday and everyone is out getting drunk already! So we find a table and while we weren’t crazy about the menu, we decided on something to order. There is a symbol to scan to order from your table, which we used. We filled out our order, get to the pay section, I scan my credit card, and it wants to text me a code to verify I am who I say I am. Well, we’ve been through this before and the code would be texted to my US number (which is the number on file with my credit card) and not my English number, so I would not get the text. So Dave goes up to the bar to order. After waiting about 10 minutes, he gives me the sign – let’s get out of here! No one would wait on him and the bar maids were crazy busy. So we walk around and do not see much that’s inviting. There are several ethnic restaurants, but they do not look appealing. We finally end up at what I think is a chain, Nando’s. It was busy! I did not take a picture of the food. We just got chicken wraps. They were good, but we thought all their food was overpriced. After lunch, we walked a little further as we had seen a church with a tall steeple and I wanted to check it out. As we got close, we realized the church had been converted to apartments or condominiums. At this point, we decided to take a different route home so we could see some different scenery. But, there really wasn’t much to look at – that’s why there are no pictures today. Our walk home took us by the first pub we visited, The Green Man. We were also in the flight landing path and could almost touch (😳)  the bottom of aircraft flying over our heads. One plane came in and was really too high to land, sure enough he pulled up and it looked like he made another attempt. The only picture today is of a gas price sign. It was hard to get the picture, because for some reason, every time we tried to take a picture, the regular, unleaded price didn’t show up! It was weird, but we finally got it. So if my math is correct, a gallon of unleaded gas would cost almost $9:  (1.939gbp/liter x 1.22 to convert to USD = $2.36/liter x 3.785 to convert to gallons = $8.93!). We have seen the price fluctuate between 1.90gbp/ liter to 1.999gbp/liter.

Cost of gas per liter in Great British Pounds (gbp)

We ended up walking about 7 miles today.

I got hungry this evening, which is unusual because our lunches are larger than what we normally eat. we went to the Hilton restaurant and I had the fish and chips:

Fish and chips, or beer battered cod as its listed on the menu

Dave had their trout dish:

Trout

He had this before and really liked it, but said this portion was smaller than when he had it before. It included beets as a vegetable which he normally doesn’t like, but I think he liked these beets because they weren’t pickled.

 June 24, 2022:  We got up early this morning. I was thinking we were going to take a bus from Heathrow terminal 5 to Windsor Castle. Dave wants to do an Uber because it is only 8 miles and it takes the bus over an hour. So I tried to book an Uber, but kept getting errors and could not book a car. I ended up calling Uber support, and they said the problem will be fixed within 72 hours! I think the problem is that I am using a SIM card and the phone number on the SIM card is used over and over. Uber is telling me the phone number I’ve been assigned is in use on several accounts. I think that’s why I cannot book an Uber. By this time, we had missed the 9:05am bus. So we try the car service, Sky Cars, we used to move from the Ibis hotel to the Hilton. We have to wait 20 minutes for the car, but it turns out to be cheaper than Uber – 18 GBP vs 25 GBP (Great Britain pounds). I had not booked the tickets for Windsor Castle in advance because I didn’t know exactly what time we’d get to the castle, or based on the buses/Ubers/car  services, if we’d get there. So while riding in the car on the way to the castle, I try to book our tickets. 10:30am, which is the time Dave wanted, is still available. So I enter all my information, get to the end, and to verify my identity, they want to send a code by text to my phone. The problem is I am using an English phone number and they want to send the code to my US phone number. Another glitch in our travel! I can’t get the tickets in advance. We get delivered right to the castle about 10:00 am, so we actually beat the bus. There is a long line, and I told Dave we’d probably have to wait in that line. But no! We were sent to a very short line to buy our tickets! The lady selling us our tickets was very nice and told us we’d have time to visit St. George’s chapel before the changing of the guard at 10:45! Out tickets, which were about 27 GBP per person included an audio guide. We were told there are no photographs allowed inside the buildings. We got our audio guides. Walking to St. Georges chapel, we see the Round Tower. As I look over the wall at the Round Tower, there is a little park with a little pond. Just as I look, mama duck and her ducklings jump into the pond. Of course I was not quick enough to get a picture of the ducklings going into the water, but they were cute. They loved walking on the lilipads. I hope you can see them in the picture. The first picture includes the round tower and pond, the second picture I tried to zoom in on the pond.


Zoomed in picture of ducks, ducklings are hard to see but they’re on lilypads

Next, we went to St. George’s chapel. Harry and Megan were married in St. George’s chapel. The chapel can accommodate 800 people.

St. Georges Chapel

St. George’s Chapel was founded in the 14th century and is the chosen burial place for the British Royal family. There are many famous burials in the chapel, I believe they said 10 kings, including Henry VIII, George VI and his wife (Queen Elizabeth’s parents), and Prince Phillip. It is expected that Queen Elizabeth will also be buried here. The ashes of her sister, Princess Margaret, are in St. George’s chapel. There are many sacred relics housed here including a fragment of Jesus’ cross. 

As we walked the center aisle, I could look side to side and in my mind see where the Royal family has sat for Harry and Megan’s wedding. I remember in watching the wedding that Megan walked halfway down the aisle by herself, and then was joined by Prince Charles. It is very obvious inside that the chapel appears to have two halves. 

After visiting the chapel, we found a place to stand to watch the changing of the guard. This ceremony lasted about 45 minutes! The guard in place before the change had a dark uniform. Several military with the same dark uniform marched in and underwent an inspection by a senior military person. In the distance we could hear drums and then a marching band. The marching band, in the recognizable red jackets and fur hats, marched past us, and then a regiment of guards in the red jackets and fur hats followed the band. The dark uniforms and the red jackets did some maneuvers, mostly just standing in place and getting perfectly aligned. The guard with the dark uniform was replaced by a red jacket with a fur hat, and the marching band played 3 songs. Several of the military went into the guards room and stayed there until after the band played. Finally, they all came out of the guards room, the marching band started playing and led the way for all the military to leave. 

Guard in place before the changing of the guard ceremony
Assembling of guards in dark uniforms
Marching band entering plaza
Actual changing of the guard
New Guard with red jacket and fur hat

We were surprised it lasted so long, but we really had a good spot to watch. 

After the changing of the guard, we visited the state apartments in the Castle. Windsor is the oldest inhabited castle in the world and has remained in continuous use since built by William I in 1066. Queen Elizabeth is in residence at Windsor Castle. 

The first thing we saw was Queen Mary’s Doll House. The doll house was never meant to be a child’s toy. It was presented to Queen Mary in 1924 and meant to demonstrate all that was best in British workmanship. So it has running water, miniature leather bound books, a miniature gramophone with records that really play, wine bottles with real wine, etc. These apartments were used by prior kings and queens, and a few of the rooms are currently used. So we did not see Queen Elizabeth running around ☹️. We probably saw over 20 rooms. The normal tour routing was changed as they are preparing a display of the Queens Jubilee. The Jubilee display will be in St. George’s Hall and the Lantern room, which were the rooms severely damaged by the fire in 1992. St. George’s Hall can seat 160 people for Royal banquets. Our audio guide was great as it gave us a one or two minute description of each room and the notable objects. I have to say it was one of the best audio guides we have used, as it was not too lengthy. We spent about 2 maybe 2.5 hours touring the castle. We did buy a couple of souvenirs- 2 shot glasses emblazoned with the jubilee insignia and an official souvenir book about Windsor Castle.

Shot glass with Jubilee emblem

Leaving the castle, we walked into the town of Windsor. It is really cute, and of course we found a pub as we were hungry after all that touring. We found “The Carpenters Arms”. All the pubs we have been to have a listing for “starter” which are like appetizers, and “sharing” which 2 or more people can share. Dave and I opted for a fish platter which was advertised to contain “Wholetail Scottish Scampi, king prawns with Marie Rose sauce, smoked Scottish salmon, beer-battered haddock goujons, and mini salmon and dill fish cakes served with tartar sauce and lemon aioli”. Most of it we enjoyed. 






The scampi is missing ☹️ but it was shrimp and sauce on toast


Inside our pub of the day

After lunch, we checked the bus schedule, and we had about 45 minutes to find our bus stop. We actually found the stop pretty quickly, and noted that this particular bus did not make all the stops, so it should only take about 45 minutes to get back to Heathrow instead of 70 minutes. Since we still had awhile before the bus was scheduled to arrive, we walked around a little. Windsor had transformed what used to be the train station into an area with shops.

What was the old entrance to the train station
Replica of engine that pulled the Royal train cars

The train still stopped here, but the big station and ticket booths had been replaced by ticket machines. We wandered and saw the replica of an engine that used to pull the Royal train cars, as well as cute shops. We walked back to the bus stop, bought a bottle of water, and anxiously awaited the bus, hoping we were really in the right spot.

The bus came, and it was empty. It was a double decker, so of course we headed upstairs and sat in the front. We actually sat across the aisle from each other taking up all 4 front seats! There was no one else on the bus! We drove for a bit….and pulled into a school parking lot. About 30 loud, screaming, foul mouthed kids boarded the bus ☹️. Somehow our journeys always turn out different than expected. The bus proceed to make about 5 or 6 stops that were not listed on the schedule, dropping off kids at each stop. Finally, at the next to last stop, all the kids were gone and we had 5 minutes of peace before getting to our stop, Heathrow terminal 5. We are staying at the Hilton at terminal 4, but there is a free train/tube between the terminals. We did check out Terminal 5 for a planned journey on Monday, and then proceeded to the tube/train. First we go to the tube/train that stops at terminals 2 and 3, and then change for the tube/train to terminal 4 (there is no direct tube/train from terminal 5 to terminal 4. You have to go to the stop for terminals 2 &3 and change tube/trains). We get to terminal 2 & 3, and look at the board to see the next tube/train to terminal 4 is in 16 minutes. Then they make an announcement that if you need to go to terminal 4, you have to go back to terminal 5 and take a bus to terminal 4. We always run into issues! OK, we go back to Terminal 5, find the bus. You are suppose to swipe your credit card getting on and getting off, but if it’s between terminals you won’t get charged. We swipe getting on, and I swiped getting off, but Dave’s credit card apparently didn’t register….he will probably be charged for taking the bus to the end of the line ☹️. 

Finally getting back to the hotel, we head straight to the bar for a drink. All in all, it was a good day. But could have been much better without the hiccups!

June 23, 2022:  The transportation strike is in full swing today, so if our feet don’t take us, we’re not going. We did not do much today. Not needing to get up early, we hung around in our hotel room doing some research on the two or three places we still want to go while here. I washed some things out in the bathroom sink. By 1:00, we were ready to do our walk to a pub. The one I picked out is called “Load of Hay” and about 1.5 miles away. We started out the same way as day before yesterday, as the Load of Hay is just about 1/2 mile down the same road as “Inn on the Green”. We passed what I previously thought was a duck sitting on her nest, but upon further research, I discovered it is actually a coot. She is still there diligently doing her job.

We walked past St. Mary’s church again and past Inn on the Green. We notice lots of construction which is billed as affordable housing. We also passed a gated community with a sign saying it is owned by a charity. Dave and I think it is some form of charitable housing for seniors, or disabled or something. It looked very nice. We finally get to “Load of Hay”, and find out they are not serving food today – must be because the staff was unable to come into work because of the transportation strike. Our travel hang ups continue! We remember passing another restaurant, “O Calhau”.

It is more of a restaurant than a pub, but has liquor and beer and wine. It bills itself as a Mediterranean Restaurant with tapas. We had 3 tapas plates for lunch: Parma ham with melon, bruschetta, and calamari. They serve calamari with tartar sauce, but Dave asked for tomato sauce instead, which they substituted. It was a good lunch.

OK, I had a few bites of melon before I remembered to take a picture.
Yes, Dave grabbed a piece off the plate before I could get a picture.
This picture I got before anything disappeared 😁.

Afterwards we stopped at a store so Dave could buy more wine and Pringles.  We walked back to the hotel, checking out the construction some more. Yes, a slow day thanks to the transportation strikes.

June 22, 2022: My fingernails are very important to me, and if I were “Elon Musk” wealthy, I would pay for my nail technician to travel with me! On many of our longer trips, I have not been able to find a nail salon that looked clean, used drill type tools, etc. Even on the cruise ships – they’re clean, but they don’t use the tools to really get the acrylic thin so it doesn’t lift. So my nails have been a big concern for me since we will be gone 7 weeks. I knew I could go 4 weeks since I’m not doing housework or doing any heavy lifting….but I didn’t know what would happen beyond that. Today, I am at 4 weeks. So when we found we were going to be in London for awhile, I started looking. I asked ladies at the hotels, googled, checked trip advisor and cruise critic. Somehow I kept going back to one salon I found on Google. One lady at our hotel told me to look in Kensington or Knightsbridge. The salon I found had 3 locations, including Kensington, and listed “acrylic fill” as one of their services. Dave was very encouraging as he knows how important the fingernails are to me. So since we did not have plans for today other than to find a pub, our big mission today was to find a place to get my nails done! Because of the transit strike this week, there are fewer trains running, so more people on the trains. The salon I found, Serenity Nails and Beauty, has 3 locations, which I took as a good omen, and the closest one to me, in Kensington, was at the tube stop for “Earl’s Court”. I could have booked online, but it looked like they had lots of openings, and I wanted to see the place in person before committing myself. We got there about noon. They had 4 pedicure chairs and 3 nail chairs – so kinda small, but they were busy! They had availability at 2:20pm, so I booked it. Dave and I just wandered around the area and we knew we could find a pub here for lunch. Earls Court is part of Kensington and Chelsey. It is really a cute area and we enjoyed walking around checking out which pub we would go to for lunch, and wasting some time. We settled on The Blackbird Pub. Their specialty was pies and it is named after the famous Blackbird Pie, immortalized in the nursery rhyme, “Sing a song of Sixpence”. It is really not an old place, but it was fixed up cute.




Ham mini pie
Old fashioned water closet!

Dave had been wanting a British meat pie, so this was perfect. I had a mini steak pie and Dave had a mini ham pie. They were served with gravy and mashed potatoes. It was the perfect size for lunch. The pie, gravy and mashed potatoes were very good. After eating, we still had an hour before my appointment, so we walked some more. Finally, it was 2:20. The lady that did my nails did a very good job and hopefully they will last until I get home in 23 days. Yea! 

In the meantime, Dave found another pub close to the nail salon, The Kings Head, to enjoy a glass of wine while he waited for me.

Back to the tube station to go back to the hotel – we didn’t have to wait too long, but the tube cars were packed!  Dinner at our hotel tonight. Dave had fish and chips, and I had a lamb dish with creamed cabbage which was delicious!

I have to try to remember to take pictures of our food before it is half gone!

June 21, 2022:  The transportation strike has us pretty much grounded. We did do some research on a couple of places we hope to visit, but with the transportation strike, we will play it day by day. We looked into flying to Munich early, but all the hotels we were interested in are full – probably because of Oberammergau and the Passion Play. 

Our big adventure of the day was trying out another pub, and of course we are looking for places we can walk to, which means less than 2 miles away. Today we walked to The Bell on the Green. It is only about 1 mile from our hotel. On the way, we crossed a narrow, shallow river, the Duke of Northumberland’s River. There was a mama duck sitting on her nest just above the water! It looked like papa duck was bathing himself on the other side of the river, with another duck!

We also walked by an old church and graveyard. St. Mary’s Church is the Church for Bedfont and is historic.  The original church was likely wood, and the village was mentioned in the Doomsday Survey. The most likely date for rebuilding the church in stone is mid 12th century. There are two yew trees which are trimmed to show two peacocks at the top, and the dates 1704 and 1990 on each tree. Apparently the 1704 represents the date the trees were trimmed to resemble peacocks, and the 1990 was the year an expert topiaries recut the trees which had lost their shape after the Second World War. Not sure I agree that they look like peacocks.

We did not see them, as we could not enter the church, but there are brass plaques inside the church memorializing people who died, the oldest being Isabell Page who died in 1629. There were many tombstones in the graveyard, but most were very hard to read. The oldest we saw that we could read was from 1740. 

Not much further along, we reached our “Pub of the Day”, “The Bell on the Green”. As a side note, we see a very mixed, integrated population in England. Many workers, servers and pub owners appear to be of Indian descent, but there are many black people, too. As to the pubs and even the hotel restaurants (Ibis and Hilton) have curry dishes as well as Indian dishes,  many vegetarian and vegan dishes. Today, Dave ordered a spicy chicken sandwich which he said was not very spicy.  Many dishes are served with chips, which we call French fries! I like to try different things, so I had Lamb Biryani. The lamb was incorporated into a blend of rice and vegetables, and came with a red sauce, Biryani gravy,  made with tomatoes, spices, herbs and vegetables (I think I recognized green beans and peas), and another sauce, Raita, that reminded me of tzatziki….and maybe it was! Raita is yogurt based. It was good and very filling. The pub had some cute sayings above the bar.



The Bell on the Green


We stopped at a grocery next door to pick up some necessities for Dave – Diet Coke and Pringles. Then we walked back to the hotel, checking out the church some more,  and making sure mama duck was still on the nest (she was). 

After our big lunch, we didn’t want much for dinner. We felt like the Hilton didn’t have any good appetizer type offerings that we hadn’t already tried, so we walked down the tunnel that connects us to the terminal at the airport, and there is a Crown Plaza (and a Holiday Inn express and a Premier Inn) also connected to the same tunnel. We decided to try the bar at the Crown Plaza. Dave got chicken wings that were too spicy and I got squid with a sauce I didn’t like with a couple glasses of wine. Oh well, at least we tried something different!


June 20, 2022:  After a very busy day yesterday, we are not doing any big trips today. This week will be challenging anyway, as a transportation strike is planned this week in London. 

Dave has a bagful of laundry he is going to send to be washed, which is mostly socks, underwire and shorts. He gets it all ready and gives it to the housekeeping lady. I am fortunate as I can wash out most of my stuff in the sink. To skip ahead a bit,when we get back from lunch, there is a knock on the door and they are returning the laundry. And, more importantly, they gave us a 50% discount! Wow! At least someone likes us!

I have been searching for pubs within walking distance, and we tried one for lunch today, “The Green Man”. It was established in 1537, but parts of the building date back to 1640. There is a legend involving a secret chamber in back of the fireplace….which is where the bathrooms are now!




After lunch, we walked back to the hotel, stopping to check out a convenience store. They don’t have a good selection of wine, but they do have some lite tonic! We pass a field with some horses, and there are two young ones. One of the young horses kinda looked at us and we thought he might walk over to us, but about half way, he decided against it. I think this breed of horses is Gypsy Vanner, a bred of domestic horses from Great Britain. They had the long hair over their feet.

We got back to the hotel and took a brief rest, and decided to take the tube to terminal 2, as we think that is where we are leaving on Lufthansa. We thought we would check it out since we have the time. It is free to travel between the terminals. So we walked over to terminal 4, which is near our hotel. There was a train waiting, so we hopped on. We were at the stop for terminals 2 & 3 in about 10 minutes, and we were kind of amazed it took that long. After the train arrived, we had to choose terminal 2 or 3, and we chose terminal 2 as that is the one we are flying out of. I was actually hoping to see some shops and such as I did not bring a hat on this trip and thought I might find a visor. After taking numerous moving walkways and escalators, we finally arrived at Terminal 2. It was a zoo! People all over the place! We did manage to see where we need to check in. But decided it was too crazy. There is suppose to be a Pub here, but with the masses of people, I lost interest very quickly in trying to find it. So, we decided to head back. We backtracked through the maze of escalators and moving walkways to finally get to the platform we needed to return to terminal 4. The next train was suppose to be in 20 minutes. It kept getting pushed back further and further. I think we ended up waiting 53 minutes for a train to take us from terminal 2 to terminal 4. Again, the Walkers travel plans are cursed!

We get back to the hotel, rest for a bit, and decide to go to dinner, in the hotel. Nothing much planned for tomorrow due to the transportation strike. We will probably seek out another pub. 


You can tell it was a slow day – lots of pictures!

We were laying in bed ready to go to sleep, watching a little TV. Dave is flipping through the channels and comes across a program ”Naked Attraction”. I could not believe what we were seeing on TV, and of course we had to watch! This is like a dating game show. There are 6 men or women in booths on stage, and a “contestant” of the opposite sex. The people in the booths are stark naked and as the show progresses, their bodies and faces are revealed starting from the bottom up. Each person in the booth is eliminated one by one based on the body parts revealed until there are only two left. At this point you can see their faces and their whole body. Now the contestant goes offstage and returns naked! when the naked contestant comes back, they pick their date from the two remaining people. The conservative, putitan me was shocked that this was on TV, in the 10:00 time frame. But I couldnt turn it off and had to watch! Can you imagine going in to work the next day and saying, ”Oh, did you see me on TV last night?”.

June 19, 2022: Did not get an early start, probably headed out about 10:30am. Our plan for today is to go into London and visit the British museum. Our hotel is connected to Heathrow Terminal 4 which has direct access to the Piccadilly tube line. It is very easy to travel on the British public transportation. You just swipe your credit card at the entrance and when you exit. According to the hotel concierge, it will never be more than 14 GBP per day, no matter how much you use it. The train is waiting for us so we hop on. It is about an hour ride to our stop, Russell Square. From there it is a short walk to the British Museum, which has free entry! It is busy today, but with free entry, and on a Sunday, I guess that would be expected. We grab a map, but it takes us a few minutes to get our bearings. The British museum is a bit overwhelming and has more artifacts than anyone could possibly see in a day, maybe even a week. You can get an audio guide, but there would be too much for us to see. But, their map has a convenient “must see” list with each artifact listed on the map, by the letters A through L.  A dozen artifacts seems about right for us, and remember, they are located all throughout the museum which has 7 levels I think. 

So, pretend your on a journey through the British Museum with me!

The first item, A, is “ The Holy Thorn Reliquary” which I assume is suppose to be from Jesus crown of thorns….but we will never know! We find the location, room 2a, but the exhibit is closed! So we cannot see item A.

Item B is noted as the most famous chess set in the world, The Lewis Chessmen.

 

A little amazed that this is the most famous chess set in the world!

Item C is an Astrolabe, which is a spectacular scientific instrument from the Islamic world.


In this same large display, I found this globe to be very interesting:


From 1275-76? They knew the world was round?

Item D is The Oxus Treasure. It is one of the largest collections of Achaemenid gold and silver objects and dates to about the 5th and 4th centuries BC. It was found in the 19th century close to the river Oxus on the boarder of Afghanistan and Tajikistan.


Item E is The Portland Vase and is the Roman inspiration for Wedgwood.


Item F is Tang Dynasty Figures from the tomb of a general.



Item G is Shiva Nataraja, Lord of the Dance from south India.


We decided it was time to take a break, so we stopped and had lunch. There is a sit down restaurant but it had a very long line, so we went to a quick pick lunch where you pick your items and take them to a cashier to pay and hope to find someplace to sit and eat. Fortunately Dave is always very good at finding a seat, and he did again today.

After a bit of rest and refreshment, we were off to find Item H, Brass plaques from Benin, masterpieces of African Art. But when we got to the stairs leading down to the African gallery, it was closed! while wandering around to see if there was another stairway down to the Africa exhibits, we saw a bonus artifact – a crystal skull. We’ve seen some documentaries on crystal skulls and they are purported to be ancient. However this skull was examined by experts and thought to have been made in the 1800’s.


The next item, I, is the Moai known as Hoa Hakananai’a. It is a colossal ancestor figure from Rapa Nui, Easter Island. The people from Easter Island have asked the British Museum to return the figure, but so far it is still in discussion.

Item J is probably the most interesting, The Rosetta Stone. The Rosetta Stone was the key to deciphering hieroglyphs. This is the one exhibit that people were really crowed around.

Not much more to say about this famous stone!

Item K, Assyrian Lion Hunt reliefs, seemed to be missing in action. There were some huge stone sculptures in the Assyrian gallery that looked like maybe they lined a road, but no Lion Hunt reliefs.



The last item, L, is Parthenon Sculptures from ancient Greece. The museum had an obnoxious amount of sculptures from the Parthenon, lining the walls of a huge gallery.

This is curved because I used the ”pano” feature on my phone


This is another curved pano picture. I use the pano option when there is too much to get in one photo.

While this completed the ”Don’t miss list”, we did see other exhibits while we were passing through various rooms/galleries looking for the next ”don’t miss item”. One exhibit we saw was a mostly complete monument, The Nereid Monument from Turkey.


Another item that caught my eye was this tile piece, supposedly from Nebuchadnezzar‘s Throne room.


Dave and I found it a little disturbing (?), not sure if that is the right word, with almost the greediness of the Museum collections. I think reading about the Moai from Easter Island and how the Islanders want it back, and all the pieces from the Parthenon, where we know from visiting Athens that they are trying to reconstruct the Parthenon made us feel like it wasn’t right for the British Museum to keep all these artifacts. They are very interesting to see and read about, but its like overkill. Just our opinion…..

We left the museum about 3:30 and checked our map of London to see what else we wanted to see. We have been here before and saw many of the sites, so we decided just a little refresher. We walked to Trafalgar Square which was totally being overtaken by Muslims having some type of gathering.


The we walked to the building that once housed Scotland Yard, but on the way we passed “Walkers of Whitehall Pub & Restaurant”, and Dave felt a tug at his heartstrings.


Our next stop was 10 Downing Street, but we could pnly get to the start of Downing Street as it was fenced off with several bobbies guarding the entrance.


Another famous London landmark, Big Ben!


Can you believe they still have these in London? Maybe they were just there to amuse tourists. If so, I guess it worked!

Our final stop was to walk by Buckingham Palace. Last time we were there for the changing of the guard. The horses marched down the road right through the gates. This time we only saw what the horses left on the street 😀. There is a park, St. James, that we walked alongside and we saw one attempted escapee.


Just before getting to Buckinham Palace, we saw some swans, and crazy people trying to pet them! Swans can be vicious!


Some pictures of Buckinham Palace – could not get close, and actually crawled through a fence to get here, as did many other people!

Gate leading toward the Palace
Before climbing through black fence in foreground
Front of Palace , balcony where royals stand is blocked from view by black gates

We had enough of London and headed back to our hotel on the tube. When we got back, we got a drink and went outside to a little area the hotel calls their beach. We stayed for awhile, but got cold and went back inside to finish our drinks and have dinner, and then crashed after a long day.

June 18, 2022: Check out time is noon, so we took our time showering and getting ready to leave. We check our about 11:30 and tried to use Uber for the first time. They kept wanting us to verify our credit cards, which we did many times over, and they they would reject our payment method. We tried with Daves card and my card. Finally we gave up after about an hour and got the number of a car service from the hotel. The car service price was actually about the same as Uber- maybe a little cheaper even, but we had to wait an hour. While waiting, we notice I is hotel has a sign advertising the price of rooms – it is actually more expensive than the Hilton that we’re going to! Finally about 1:30 we get our car and he drives us to the Hilton. We check in and we are in room 384. Dave hoped for a good view of planes landing and taking off….it is a view of the planes, but not a great view. Our room however is bigger, has a “chiller” (not as cold as a refrigerator), tissues, a desk, a nice chair to sit in, a closet, a safe, some drawers, an ironing board and iron, a brightly lit bathroom, a big shower, an ice machine down the hall, better shows and movies on TV, etc. Obviously, much nicer than the Ibis. And, Hilton left us a welcoming gift!

Dave did a home test for COVID, and he still has a very faint lint indicating positive. However, it is so faint compared to our other tests that I’m sure he is almost over it. Fortunately, I don’t think we will need any tests for our travel to Germany or our River cruise. Supposedly, Viking had dropped all testing requirements unless required by the country we’re visiting, and it looks like those countries are requiring vaccinations and boosters less than 270 days old. We are good with that as our last booster was May 2. Regardless, I think in 11 more days Dave should be texting negative. I have my handy certificate of recovery from Princess, so I do not have to test.

We spent the day unpacking and reorganizing our clothes. We will probably send a few things to the laundry here at the hotel. I can rinse out most of my shirts in the sink, but will send shorts and jeans to the laundry. Lunch & dinner at the Hilton today.  Tomorrow we may go into London.

June 17, 2022: We did not get going early – really not morning (or late night) people. Around lunchtime we headed towards a park I had read about, Cranford Park. On the way we crossed a little stream which we e crossed gefore, but today there were ducks enjoying the water. On the banks are what I think are Queen Ann’s Lace, as we have seen this same plant along the roadsides. But the Queen Ann’s Lace on the banks are about 8 feet tall!

We stopped at Kentucky Fried Chicken for lunch, and then continued our walk. Cranford Park is billed as a “natural country park with 144 acres of wood, meadow & wetlands, a graveyard and a resident ghost”. Supposedly the site was used by the Knights Templars and is recorded in the Doomsday book. 

When we got there, we discovered it was mostly closed for renovation! Of course…typical for our travels! There is normally a visitors center, but it was closed, too. We were able to walk around St. Dustin’s Church and graveyard. I believe I read the church is from the 14th century! Unfortunately the church was locked. We did find some interesting gravestones, and the earliest we could read were from the early 1700’s. The oldest ones get hard to read. There were beautiful grounds, and several paths, but without maps we were not adventurous enough to walk any of them. 

The worst used constable? what is ”worst used”?


1728
1732?

We headed back to the hotel, and decided to do a slightly different route. I had pulled the route up on Google maps, but with the construction, we could not get exactly where we wanted to go. We knew we were headed in the right direction, and finally Google rerouted us. We walked awhile, and then Google literally took us down a dirt path, along “Frog Ditch”! That was interesting! What was nice, was it was in a wooded area, following the ditch, but there was nice shade from the trees and it was a very hot day. If we had found the original route, we would have been walking alongside a road in the hot sun. It was an interesting experience – the path was about 1/2 mile long, maybe a little longer. By the time we got back to the hotel, we had put in our 5 miles for the day. But, we still wanted to go to the grocery store and pick up some essentials (for Dave). So after a little rest, we walked to the little store and back, which was another mile under our belts. 

We ate dinner at our hotel – I had a lamb kebab which was just a little tough, and Dave got chicken curry, which was HOT and SPICY! After 2 bottles of water, he managed to finish it. Then, back to our room to reorganize and pack up for our move to Hilton tomorrow.

June 16, 2022: Spent much time on the phone today ☹️. I think my Verizon account gives me a “free day”, but if not, I’ll have a big charge for call to….Verizon! I purchased a SIM card, only to discover my new iPhone was locked, which means I cannot use a SIM card from anywhere except my Verizon USA SIM card. Tried chat, but it was getting me nowhere. Finally called customer service. The rep had to complete some form, but by the evening, Dave got an email that my phone was unlocked! Also made call back to travel agent to cancel our October cruise. Seriously, all this, trying chat, trying SIM card, calling, on hold, blah, blah, blah….took much of our day! After this Princess fiasco, we’ve decided to take a break from cruising for awhile, not to mention how the stock market is crashing. ☹️. We did get out for awhile and walked to Kentucky Fried chicken which is about 1/2 mile away. We also entertained ourselves watching planes land at Heathrow. We just went downstairs to the hotel in our restaurant for dinner to find that after 7:00PM (it was about 7:30PM), they have a limited menu. We had to stand in line at least 20 minutes to put in our order. We both got Ham and cheese panini’s. After eating, we stood in line another 20 minutes to get drinks and sat at tables outside….and watched planes coming in to land. 

I found an interesting park nearby that I hope we can visit tomorrow, but it is forecast to be hot, so we will see.

June 15, 2022: Dave and I pretty much wore ourselves out! This morning, Dave saw that the Heathrow Hilton at Terminal 4 was reasonably priced – probably because Terminal 4 just reopened! So we decided to walk there and check out the hotel. It is about 3.3 miles, one way, to the Hilton. On our walk, we enjoyed watching the planes landing at Heathrow fly right over us!

It was hot, but fortunately we have changed from jeans to shorts. Had a little trouble figuring out the entrance as a pedestrian, but we finally got in. The doorman, Paul, was very friendly and helpful. He took us to the Concierge, Dragos, who answered all our questions. The hotel looks very nice, nice lounges, the room has Wi-Fi and a “cooler” instead of a refrigerator, but ice is available. Transportation into London is very close, so we booked our room and Dragos got us a little better deal than what we were seeing online, plus upgraded us to a deluxe room. Dave said that just means we’ll have a robe and slippers, which we would never use anyway. I am so relieved that we have a place to stay! We walked through their walkway into the airport (the hotel is connected to Terminal 4), and wandered around a bit. It was early afternoon by this point, so we got a sandwich and drink, and sat down to rest for a bit. After lunch we wandered into one of the airport shops, and I bought a SIM card for my phone. Then we began our long walk back to our current hotel, Ibis. We rested for awhile, then I checked my phone and saw that I had emails from Nancy. I missed the early emails, but finally picked them up when Nancy, Bill, Rusty and Susan was waiting for their food at the White Hart Inn. So we walked over to meet them. They were done with their meal, of course. Nancy and Bill stayed while we ate ours. We had ribs – just one generous serving, with a green salad, Cole slaw, and French fries. Bill had tested positive early in the cruise and took Paxlovid, a COVID drug. He tested negative at the end of the cruise, but now he has rebound COVID. He looked miserable, but it is just cold symptoms – runny nose, sneezing and coughing. He wore a mask while we were there, but hopefully our COVID is protecting us for awhile at least. Rusty and Susan stay for a few minutes, but they left their credit card someplace and wanted to see if they could find it. Turns out they had left it at a little convenience store and the store held it for their return! 

Ribs from White Hart Pub

We walked back to our hotel and crashed. We walked over 8 miles! 

June 14, 2022:  We did not do much today. Spent a lot of time trying to find a hotel for our 11 days after our 5 days at Ibis. Dave is very good at finding good hotels. We are trying to decide whether to stay in London, where we would be able to walk around, or stay near the airport where we would have transportation into London and elsewhere where we may want to visit. The hotels in London central are very expensive, with the decent ones costing more than $350 per night. Some of the less expensive rooms, other than being tiny, don’t even have windows! 

Our first big adventure today was walking to McDonalds for lunch. It is about 1/2 mile away. We sat outside to eat our burger and fries and then walked back to our hotel. 

The second big adventure was to walk the other direction from our hotel to see if we could find a decent grocery store to buy breakfast bars and soda. About 1/2 mile away, we spotted a Starbucks and a Kentucky Fried Chicken. We kept walking and all we were seeing were these small Indian convenience stores. There are plenty of them, but they don’t carry breakfast bars. The road we are walking on is parallel to a Heathrow runway, and we see lots of planes coming in.

We probably walked about 2 miles and gave up, walking back to our hotel. After a bit of a rest in our room, we went down to the lobby to grab a drink and some dinner. We got the best thing on the menu – chicken and bacon pizza. That should be enough to explain the menu. The dining area was pretty full, and there was a group of young people that came and really filled up the place. After eating, we went outside where there are a few tables and found a seat, but it was too chilly – so we just went back to our “spacious” room.


June 13, 2022: I think a lot of people who were already in quarantine for 5 or more days, and received the same Certificate of Recovery letter that I received stating I was no longer contagious, complained about being disembarked. Late yesterday evening we received a call from the ships doctor that I would be retested sometime after 6:00am on the 13th with the assumption that if I was negative, we could stay on the ship. The thing is, once you test positive for COVID, you may test positive for weeks. This is why you are issued a certificate of recovery, with the date you were positive and stating that you were quarantined for the CDC  requisite of 5 days…because you will be testing positive for awhile. 

The medical technician showed up about 6:30am and swabbed my nose. She said we’d hear within an hour. I get the call from the ships doctor – no surprise, I still tested positive. 

We had expected a long morning with no food, so we ordered a big, hot breakfast with eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns, beans, etc. with orange juice and coffee….except the coffee didn’t come with the breakfast, so I had to call to get my coffee delivered a bit later.

Our letters tell us to be ready for a knock on the door around 9:30am, and we will be escorted off the ship. We wait and wait. finally they come for us about 11:00am, and they tell us to keep walking until we see two big gray buses. It is a bit of a hike from our room, down the hall to the midship elevators, down the exit ramp of the ship, through the halls and big luggage rooms of the terminal, and then outside around the building to to two gray buses. There are masses of people with our purple luggage tags that identify us as the COVID passengers. And many people in front of us as they probably started getting people at 9:30, but it took until 11:00 to get to us. We join the long line and hear the two gray buses are full. They need to get more buses. And the line in back of us keeps growing. The last couple on line, we happen to know from our lunch in Clearwater. They are Rusty and Susan Anderson. Later we find out they didn’t come for them until 1:00PM, but they think they may have been forgotten. We are standing outside with these masses of people, and of course there are those people at the back of the line who can’t wait their turn. It ends up that the Princess people move a bunch of people from the end, right in front of us, to make room for the people coming to board the ship. So now we are one big mass of humanity. My wild guess is that there are over 200 people waiting for transportation to the hotel assigned by Princess, in London – well, near Heathrow airport, actually. With the two buses already filled and gone, I would have to guess that Princess disembarked at least 300 people, who were planning to cruise to Norway. 

After about 90 minutes, some Princess people did bring us water (but no lunch 😁). Sometime after the two hour mark, a bunch of taxis show up. We later hear the buses refused to drive COVID positive people to London. There was an unbelievable amount of taxis. Of course everyone had a lot of luggage – they were planning for a 34 day cruise, not 18 day. Many of the taxis could only handle 2 people and their luggage. We ended up in a taxi for 4 people. 

The drive to Heathrow took another 2 hours, and we had not eaten since breakfast. We finally get to the hotel we’ve been assigned to for 5 days – Ibis Heathrow London Hotel. We are told at the front desk that Princess is paying for the room for 5 days, we are not suppose to leave the room but order in food and he gives us a menu with lunch and dinner items, but no breakfast items.  He takes our credit card and puts a $500 (supposedly) hold on it to cover our food purchases and assures us will will be refunded any balance not used. The interior of the hotel lobby looks modern and clean. It is one big open space with not much separating the lobby check-in area from the restaurant, which is like McDonalds tables and chairs. It is about 3:00PM, and we head to our room.

Dave and I are really disappointed in our room. There is a bed, a bathroom, a shelf along the wall and one chair. It is tiny. There is no room to walk around. We are suppose to order all our food for 5 days, but the room does not have a phone. (What happens if one os us COVID people have a medical emergency with no phone in the room?). The room does not have a refrigerator, microwave, table, Kleenex, or hand towels. Diabetics getting kicked off the ship might need a refrigerator for insulin. One wall, probably 8 feet long, has a minuscule closet with 4 hangers. There is a curtain that covers the rest of the wall. We open the curtain thinking a window is behind it, but the window is maybe 2.5 feet wide, and the rest is just wall! This is funny….the bathroom toilet is at most, 15” off the ground – It is a cross between a squatty potty and a western toilet. Difficult to get up and down for mature people! We have 2 bath towns and a bath mat. Dave had seen a cleaning lady in the hall and went to ask her for hand towels (remember with COVID how we are suppose to wash our hands!). She had no clue what he wanted and finally gave him two bath mats, which are very thin, so we are using them as hand towels. Obviously, Princess was only looking at $$ and had never seen the inside of this hotel room. Others from the ship were sent to the Radisson Blu Heathrow (which looks like they have great rooms) or the Mercure (which we find out later has more of the basics).

On a positive note, I will say the room seems to be clean. It is ideally set up close to the airport for a one night stay is you fly in late, or if you have an early morning flight. In those instances, all you want is a clean bed and bathroom because you are just going to sleep and leave. But for an extended stay where you are suppose to be confined to your room, it is totally inappropriate. 

Once we are in the room, Dave took a COVID home test and of course he is positive. Counting back with when he began to get congested, we figure he is in Day 4. England does not have a quarantine requirement, Princess gave me a letter saying I’m not infectious and I’ve serve my time, so….Dave will be cautious and we are not going to confine ourselves to thesis room.

I am emailing Nancy (and Bill) Young, another Clearwater lunch couple. They have been assigned to the Mercure. They are friends with Susan and Rusty Anderson, who were the last in line. We are all very hungry and I found a pub online that is between their hotel and ours, White Hart Inn, and we decide to meet there for an early dinner. 

The pub was quite charming and the host was very friendly and welcoming. We all had fish and chips with a beverage of choice. We had a pleasant early evening. We did find out that while their room at the Mercure is small, it does have a table (so a little more room), microwave and refrigerator.

From left, Rusty Anderson, Bill Young, Nancy Young, me, Dave, Susan Anderson



Fish and Chips


June 12, 2022: We got the letter, or rather letters. Yes they plan to kick us off the ship in Southampton. They will put us up in a hotel in London for 5 days and give us $100 per diem for food. What is even more interesting is they gave me a letter saying I’m no longer infectious and I don’t have to isolate – but they’re still kicking me off the ship. Dave is trying to contact the powers that be and figure out why they are kicking us off the ship if I’m no longer infectious. Also found out another couple we had lunch with in Clearwater tested positive! So 8 out of 8 of us that lunched together before the cruise have tested positive. What are the odds?


June 10 -11, 2022: Not much action when you are in quarantine! We are at sea for two days. On Saturday, 6/11, they are testing everyone onboard for COVID. Dave got a letter with an appointment time, but he can’t go because he is supposed to stay shut in with me. He finally called the medical team and they said they would send someone. After that he got two calls about missing his morning appointment. About 3:00, a lady came and did his test, but we never received the results! I have internet so I’m checking the message boards, and also have the email and stateroom phone number for Nancy and Bill Young, a couple we had lunch with in Clearwater before the cruise. It sounds like we will be getting a letter telling us what will happen when we reach Southampton. We may be booted off the ship, which is a bummer because I’m at the end of my quarantine. But again, we don’t know if Daves test was positive or negative. I feel like Dave was set up to get COVID , because he quarantines with me in close quarters. If he doesn’t get it, it will be miraculous. He is coughing a little, and he has a little congestion, but not as bad as me, and mine was pretty mild. I am feeling much better every day. We have been ordering things from room service, and it takes forever. We decided we wanted a snack this afternoon about 4:00, so I ordered some potato chips and chocolate chip cookies. We did not get them until after our dinner arrived at 6:30, so over 2 1/2 hours! Lunch orders have been a bit exciting, too. Sometimes they only bring one set of silverware. Most lunches come with French fries and we always ask for ketchup. One day it took over 2 hours to get the ketchup, so of course the fries were cold by that time. The next time they forgot ketchup, Dave called and the phone rang for over 20 minutes before they answered. He told them that the last time it took over 2 hours to get the ketchup, so this time they brought it in about 5 minutes. Of course the fries were cold because it took 20 minutes to reach someone to tell them they forgot the ketchup! We are seeing more rooms with tables at the doors in our hallway, so we know those are quarantined people. When I spoke to Nancy, she said she tested positive today as well as Susan and Rusty who are traveling with them. Bill had COVID this trip, but had gotten a prescription from his doctor for Paxlovid, and quarantined himself. He tested negative today. Tomorrow will be interesting if we get “the letter” which will determine our future. Dave calls medical about his test again, and they tell him they don’t have him on the list of positives so he must be negative,

I do not believe Dave is negative. He is not severely sick, but he is coughing more than usual, and has more congestion than usual. I think the lady who did his test ((who seemed a little scattered), lost his test. After being confined with me, and with this strain of COVID being so contagious, he has to be positive.

June 9, 2022: We are in Lerwick, Scotland, the Shetland Islands. Unfortunately, since we are in “lockdown”, we can’t go ashore. The town looks very quaint from our stateroom on the ship.

It looks like a New England town. There is an interesting ship docked in the town, Island Sky, registered in Nassau. It looks like a smaller size cruise ship. Our ship is at anchor and to get to shore, passengers have to take tenders. We ordered our breakfast for 9:00AM, but it didn’t come until 9:45! We were starving! I do not feel awful, and I feel better than yesterday. Yesterday I had a headache all day, but that seems to have gone away. I was coughing more yesterday, too. I am very tired, and keep falling asleep. I am sneezing a lot! Dave, the wildlife observer, spotted two sea lions in the water not too far from our ship! He will try to get a picture. We watched several times, but we’re unable to get a picture ☹️. We have been getting our food delivered, and we supposedly can order anything we want. Unfortunately, sometime the food is warm but not hot, and the wine is warm and not cool (white wine). But, we’ll survive. We are splurging tonight and getting some chocolate cake and red wine! This is a pretty good time to be in quarantine…. The captain just announced we will be missing out next port, Cork, Ireland, because tropical storm Alex is causing weather issues and the seas will be too dangerous. We will be approaching Falmouth through the Dover straights instead of passing by Scotland, Ireland and Wales (if my geography is right), basically taking an extra sea day to get to Falmouth. we do see families rowing by our ship!

Mom & Kids doing all the work while Dad….steers?

June 8, 2022: Yesterday, walking around Akureyri, I had a bit of a sore throat, didn’t sleep well last night, and felt a little congested. All night long I kept thinking I probably have COVID. So when I got up this morning, I took one of our home tests that we brought. Unfortunately, I was positive! We called the medical center onboard and waited about 4 hours for a technician to come and test me. I tested positive again. Dave tested negative. This blows my mind because there are people on the ship not wearing masks, mixing with strangers at trivia and such, and eating at shared tables. Dave and I do none of that! We wore our masks from the time we left home and we always get a table for two in the dining room. When we go to the theater, we sit off by ourselves and we have not been going to trivia or any of the events where we can’t social distance. Anyway, we are quarantined in our stateroom for at least 6 days, or until I test negative. I don’t know how Dave will avoid getting it, being cooped up with me. On top of that, we have no TV, and no internet. Dave has a couple of books, but I finished the two I brought. We order our food and they bring it to us. Today is a sea day, so we are not missing much. Can’t really use our balcony because it is pretty chilly outside. The captain has made some announcements about a storm that may affect our ports, but has not given us any details. The water is much rougher than it has been. Tomorrow the ship will be in Lerwick, Scotland, but we will be in our stateroom ☹️.

June 7, 2022:  We are in Akureyri, Iceland today. I am glad that our cruise hit 3 ports in Iceland to give us more exposure to the country. This is a bigger city than Isafjordur and there are more shops to visit. I had seen a small glass sculpture with the etching of an Icelandic horse that I liked when we were in Reykjavik, but there was a flaw in the glass so I didn’t buy it. I figured I would find one in our other Iceland stops, but unfortunately I didn’t. I wanted to buy a little something to remind us of our visit to Iceland, so I got a little troll figurine. Trolls are big in Iceland, and in Norway, too. So after visiting some shops, we saw the Lutheran Church which sits high over the port…110 steps to be exact!

We made it up the steps and the church was open. They have some beautiful stained glass windows, one of which came from London.

A resident saw it in London and thought it would look good in the new church that was being built. It was thought to be one of the windows saved in WWII from a church in Coventry, England, but was later determined that it was not from that church. It is still the center window in back of the alter. After visiting the church, we walked up some more to visit the botanical gardens. The gardens sit higher than the church, but it is a gentle sloping sidewalk along the side of the road. It is a distance up, but we made it! The area covered by the gardens is probably only a couple of blocks, smaller than the gardens in Halifax. I really enjoy all the flowers, which would be impossible to grow in our climate in Florida. There are many tulips, daffodils, pansies, etc., and many others that I don’t know. I think we saw some azalea’s and begonias, but the descriptions are in Icelandic or Latin, so we weren’t sure what they were.



Water Fountain!

The climate feels so much warmer than the actual temperature. I only had on a sweater and was very comfortable. Dave said his toes got cold, but I had on wool socks, so my toes were fine. The botanical gardens sit next to a junior college. So as we exited the gardens, there was a big sign next to a path which led downhill back toward the main part of town. Going down it is called the “path of destruction “ because there was a dancehall at the bottom and the college kids would take the path down to the dancehall. But coming up the path, it was called the “path to higher education” as it led to the junior college buildings. We headed down the path to destruction, and it was treacherous. It was pretty steep and made of cinder stones, so it was easy to slip and lose your footing. At the bottom, we walked back towards the town and visited a few more shops that we hadn’t seen earlier.  Many of the shops have their doors open because the heat from the underground thermal vents is free! I wanted to stop back in one of the shops we had seen earlier and buy my Iceland souvenir, the troll. I saw some socks and convinced Dave to buy a pair because I think they will help keep his toes warm as we head into Norway. One interesting point, we didn’t think the shopkeeper was overly friendly. Maybe all the passengers from the ship wore her out, but we felt like we were a bother to her. 

Troll on shopping street
Trash receptacle with troll (on the left 😁)

I did like Iceland and I think the scenery is beautiful. I am so glad I didn’t freeze! It is so weird to look out our balcony window and see mountains (hills?) with snow on them. These mountains are the result of volcanos, and I couldn’t help but wonder what it was like here when those volcanos were erupting. Of course, that was thousands of years ago, but the ground in Iceland is still moving, and the heat from underground supplies the warmth and hot water. 


June 6, 2022: Today we are in Isafjordur, Iceland. It is a very small town, and the westernmost city in Europe. . The ship anchors in the harbor, and we have to take “tenders” to shore. As the destination lecturer said, whoever named them “tenders” never rode in one. The tenders are actually the lifeboats. Getting up in the morning, the TV is telling us the temp is 41 degrees and we are kind of dreading get off the nice, warm ship, but we are in Iceland and I want to take advantage of it. There weren’t any organized tours that interested us, so we just plan to get off the ship and wander around. We know there are museums, a library, a grocery store, a Thai restaurant and a bakery. We were most interested in finding the grocery store so Dave can buy some M&M’s and Pringles, and checking out the bakery. We walked a short distance from the tender port into town, following the other people from the ship. We stopped in a little souvenir shop, but there’s not much there. We wander a little more and there is kind of a plaza in what seems to be the city center with benches and picnic tables. We walked on and saw the bakery and the grocery store,practically across from one another. It feels warm outside! It reminds me of visiting Sandie in Denver years ago where the temperature was cold but the sun warms everything and you’d never think it was only in the 40’s. We go into the bakery, and so did everyone else from the ship. It is busy with a few tables which are all taken. Dave is humoring me by being here. He doesn’t drink coffee so he grabs a water,which he isn’t going to like because it is carbonated with some lime flavoring. I get a coffee and pick out a pastry with chocolate frosting. We get it to go because it is too crowded in the bakery, and we walked back to the little plaza and sat at a picnic table. It is so pleasant out, we are enjoying the fresh air. But the coffee isn’t that great and Dave doesn’t like the frosting on the pastry. I think the pastry itself has a good flavor. After our little break, we decide to save visiting the grocery store until we are on the way back to the ship. We wandered around the town some more. Many of the houses are painted bright colors and are constructed from corrugated metal sheets.

We passed a small Catholic Church, and then walked further and saw a large cemetery. We walked through the cemetery and as our guide yesterday told us, peoples last names are their fathers name and then either “son” or “dottir” (daughter). So Dave’s last name would be “Donaldson” and my last name would be “Raymonddottir”. The oldest grave we saw was someone who died in 1865, but most of the graves were from the 1900’s. The cemetery is attached to a large church, which I assume was Lutheran, as our guide yesterday indicated Lutheranism is the most prominent religion in Iceland. We spotted a large whit building which was originally a hospital, but now is a library, or “cultural” center. Since it was a public building we decided to go in to use the facilities.  There are children out and about, and the librarian told us that today is a holiday, Pentecost. Being that is a religious holiday, it was evident that religion is still very important, at least in this small town. I did not get the same feeling in Reykjavik, and our guide said most young people are either atheists or agnostic. Near the library was a large statue honoring fishermen. We decided to head back to the ship, stopping at the grocery store on the way. The grocery store building reminded me of a grocery store we visited in Japan. You walk into the building and the grocery store was on one side of a long, wide hallway, and there were businesses on the other side, including the Thai restaurant. We checked out the grocery store, and found the shelf holding the pringles, but the slot for Daves favorite (sour cream and onion) was empty! They had plenty of pringles, just not his flavor. The had smaller bags of M&M’s, but those he can buy for less on the ship. So, we left empty handed and walked back to where we have to catch the tender to go back to the ship. Close to our boarding area was a big pipe dispensing ice into large trays. Then, a guy in a forklift would lift the filled ice trays and take them down the dock to a large ship, which was apparently a fishing troller.

That was interesting to watch while we waited for our ride back to the ship! Once back onboard, I thought it would be nice to sit outside around the pool and soak up some sun. But, it was not as nice as it was onshore! It was too breezy and cool ☹️.


June 5, 2022: Today we are in Reykjavik, Iceland. We had an all day tour with Viator, entitled Golden Triangle with Crater. We met others that had signed up on the ship and walked off together about 8:30am. We realized we were probably early, as the tour operator was not going to meet up until 9:00am, We watched the buses come and go, and Dave and I wandered over to where the big busses were coming in. Finally about 9:00am,a big bus comes in with a sign that says Grand Golden Circle tour and we checked with the guy getting off the bus, who had our name. Yea! We have our bus! It was a big bus, and people from the ship almost filled it, but they made one more stop to pick up people from the hotels, I assume. This will be an all day tour because it covers several miles. The tour guide, Palli, teaches at a junior college. He is very knowledgeable, but his microphone is not the best, so it is a bit hard to understand him. He gives us lots of facts about Iceland, for example, they eat more pizza per capita than any other country in the world. Also, there was a big controversy about whether pineapple should be a pizza topping or not. We see mountains with snow on top, but the landscape is pretty desolate. About 95% of the homes in Iceland are heated from the steam underground. We can see holes where the steam is coming up. I think our guide called these hatches.

Leaving Reykjavik, we cross the giant hot water pipes that feed Reykjavik. We see many Icelandic horses as we drive. Our guide tells us there are 400,000 sheep in Iceland, too, but we don’t see them for awhile. Initially, all we see are the horses. 

We stopped at a strip mall, in Selfoss, basically to use the bathrooms, but there is a display of what happened when this area was hit by an earthquake. Iceland actually sits on the North American and European tectonic plates. Inside this strip center, on the floor, are plastic sheets that cover where the floor split, with North America on one side and Europe on the other. The grave of Bobby Fisher of chess fame is near here. 

We travel many miles between our stops. Our first stop is the Kerio crater, which is a volcanic cone formed from an eruption about 6500 years ago that collapsed and filled with water.  It is 270 meters long, 170 meters wide snd 55 meters deep. 

We see lots of mountains and lava flows our guide explains why some mountains have ragged tops and others flat tops. Apparently it depends on whether the lava breaks through the top of the mountain and flows over the edges or just spills over the top to make the jagged tops. 

Our next stop, and the first stop as part of the golden triangle is Gullfoss which is a waterfall. It is a beautiful waterfall which spills over into a more narrow river. 

The second stop on the golden triangle is Strokkur geysir. Geysir literally means gusher. The Strokkur geysir is pretty regular and erupts every 7 or 8 minutes, and can shoot about 50 feet into the air.  It happened that while Dave and I were watching, we actually had a double eruption! It erupted and the a few seconds later, it erupted again.

We were cautioned not to touch the water as it is very hot – like boiling. And, not to walk off the paths as the ground can be unstable. Our guide said one person ventured off the path and her leg sunk into the ground resulting in third degree burns. Since this location is 62 kilometers from a hospital, that was a very painful ride to get treatment for those burns! There is another larger geysir, the original geysir,  nearby, but it has stopped erupting. Our guide said it needs another earthquake. There are many steaming holes around this area with steam coming out of each hole. All the holes have names with the word geysir, so I assume they could erupt anytime. They are just not as regular as Strokkur. While here, there is a visitor center, so we were able to grab some lunch. Dave and I split a ham and cheese baguette, a small can of chips and a water. There are gifts shops at all the stops, but we have little need for Icelandic knits or furs. I took advantage of making a pit stop here, and I could barely wash my hands as the water coming out of the tap was so hot! It didn’t seem to matter which way I turned the handle, the water was hot. Maybe my sink was malfunctioning because Dave said his water was fine. Definitely proves the water coming up from underground is hot!

The last stop and the third stop of the golden triangle is Pingvellir National Park. This area is very interesting, although it has started to rain. Dave did not bring his rain gear, but I did. So he stayed on the bus while I went with the guide. First we stood at the edge of the North American plates. You can look down on the river below, which our guide called no-man’s land, as it is in neither North America nor Europe. The plates separate about 1 or 2 cm. per year, which means Iceland is growing. Standing where we were, our guide said it was about 10 km to Europe.

Across the river below is a church, and the national cemetery, where only two people are buried, two poets.

Then we walked through a gorge to an area called The Law Rock, and you cantellit is raining!

In about 930 AD, local chieftains gathered at this spot. They gathered to agree on critical issues of the day.  They chose this spot mainly because it had recently been seized from a murderer and designated for public use. It was relatively accessible in summer from every corner of Iceland and had ample water, grazing lands, and firewood to supply the sprawling gatherings. This continues to be an important meeting place over the centuries. In 1944, the independent Republic of Iceland was proclaimed here. We continued down the path to the Drowning Pool. Women accrued of crimes were drowned here in the late 16th to mid 18th centuries.

Drowning Pool


Then the bus drove us back to the ship. 

When we got back to the ship, we had a letter from the Captain indicating there were COVID cases onboard and masks were required to be worn. The captain also made announcements a couple of times. It will be interesting to see if people will wear their masks. Dave and I have been wearing our masks since day 1 because we have too much planned after this cruise and we hope we can stay healthy. We notice they have moved all the chairs away from the bars so you cannot sit at the bar. In the buffet, you can’t order a drink and wait for it….you can order it, but then you have to go back to your table and the staff delivers your beverage. It will be interesting to see if the COVID measures are enforced.

It stays light here for a long time. I don’t think the sun sets until after midnight and rises about 3:00AM ( I’m taking the word of our captain, as I don’t stay up that late or get up that early). As Dave and I were getting back to our cabin, Dave looks out and sees a whale breaching! I only got to see the resulting splash. He thinks it was an Orca. Dave is so good at spotting things – he has pointed out birds to me while we’ve been out to sea. Who would think there would be birds way out here!

June 3 – 4, 2022 Two more sea days. We attend the port destination lectures, and that’s about it. We have lost the internet, but still have TV. Saturday afternoon we went to a wine tasting for “elite” cruisers,  Went to dinner Saturday night and Dave heard them discussing the Chef’s table, which means we missed it again ☹️. 

June 2, 2022: We went to the “Captains Circle” party which is for frequent cruisers with free drinks. Of course, since we have the drink package, we get “free” drinks, or at least they’re paid for in our cruise fare.

Chocolate dessert



May 31 – June 2, 2022: We are at sea, with two more ahead of us before our first port in Iceland. So, not much happening. We are attending destination lectures, but we have already heard the enrichment lectures as it is the same presenter we had in November. The weather outside is getting colder and rougher. By dinner time Wednesday evening, the ship was rocking pretty good. Overnight Wednesday, we were awakened a few times with big crashing waves hitting the hull of the ship. We are surprised that we still have internet, as we were told we would not have it. But it is slowing down. Takes a long time for emails to load, and writing this blog takes a long time as the internet keeps pausing.
Tonight is the Captains Circle party, which is for frequent Princess cruisers. Seems like they are usually they are held on formal nights, but the invitation specifies ”smart casual” dress.

May 30, 2022: Monday, Memorial Day in the US. We docked in Halifax this morning. After breakfast Dave and I got off the ship with directions for a walking tour I downloaded from ”GPS my City” app. We started out walking along the harbor on a very nice wooden boardwalk. We were a little closer to town than what I expected and actually exited the ship inside our first sight, the Farmers Market. We didn’t even realize we were in the farmers market until we came back to the ship and saw signs indicating the farmers market was only open and operational on Saturdays and Sundays – today is Monday! Our next sight, or point of interest was the boardwalk itself. There are museums along the boardwalk, lots of places to eat or grab a snack, so very touristy. Just having had breakfast, and not being interested in museums, we just walked along and enjoyed the waterfront. We passed some large community hammocks which was interesting and a couple of people were taking advantage of them. We also passed some ”Drunken Lampposts” which is a sculpture displaying all the fun that can be had at the local beer gardens.


We walked past The Government House of Nova Scotia, which is the official residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Nova Scotia.


The Government House is practically across the street from the Old Burying Ground.


Our next stop was The Church of Saint David. The church was designed in 1865 and built in 1868-1869, opening on November 7, 1869. The Presbyterian church was established in 1925 when the Presbyterians leased and then purchased the former Grafton Street Methodist Church as their congregational home. The building is in the midst of the Old Methodist Burying Ground of Halifax. A small cemetary still exists. It is much valued for its historical and spiritual association with Methodism and the creation of the United Church in Canada, and also for its association with its architect, David Stirling. Stirlings creation is a rare, if not unique, example of the Victorian Gothic style. The building is highlighted by its great front gable with tall Gothic buttresses and five detailed finials that project above the roof line. Most notably, the church was built without a steeple.


From the church, we walked to The Public Gardens. Many things were in bloom, and because of our climate in Florida, we are not able to enjoy many of the spring flowers such as those on display in the garden today. We saw beautiful tulips is various colors, daffodils, lilacs and even a cherry blossom tree.

Cherry Blossom Tree

There was an Oak Tree planted by Queen Elizabeth’s father, but the future queen was there, too.

Oak Tree planted by King George 83 years ago



There was a pond, and a placard showing a picture of a champion rower on the pond. What struck me was the current condition of the pond. It is unbelievable that someone could row on this pond. However, there were ducks that seemed to enjoy it!


The pond today! Lots of scum on top!


Another photo from the gardens…..

The bandshell with beautiful yellow tulips


We spent a good amount of time in the garden enjoying the flowers and trees.

A short distance away from the garden was the Halifax Citadel Historic sight. The entry fee was $7 Canadian per person for seniors. The site was fortified in 1749 when the city was founded by the British. The Citadel was meant to defend Halifax Harbor and the Royal Navy Dockyard. Four citadels have been built on Citadel Hill. The first, built in 1749, was small with a flagstaff and guardhouse near the summit. By 1761 its condition had deteriorated. The second was completed in 1776. It was a permanent fortification that could accommodate 100 troops. The British military presence in Halifax through Citadel Hill is thought to be one of the main reasons that Nova Scotia – the 14th British colony ( Remember where the first 13 were! I don’t remember reading this in my history books!) – remained loyal to the Crown throughout and after the American Revolutionary War. However, the poor construction caused the citadel to fall in ruins in less than 10 years. The third citadel was completed in 1796. It was lardger but fell into disrepair by 1825. The fourth and final citadel was built between 1828 and 1856. This massive masonry-construction fort was designed to repel both a land-based attack or attack from the water by United States forces (those rotten Americans!). However, the Halifax Citadel quickly became obsolete following the introduction of more powerful rifled guns in the 1860’s. By the end of the 19th century, the role of the Citadel had evolved as it was used as a command center for other, more distant harbor defensive works. It also provided barrack accomodations. After WWII, the fort began to decay but it was restored and opened as a living history museum and historic site in 1956. We entered through a tunnel, with two guards protecting the fort. The first room we saw was the guard room and lock up cells.

We wandered around the inside, lower level, and then climbed to the next level to watch the ”Noon Gun”. Noon in Halifax is announced by the firing of the noon gun, a tradition that has continued every day since at least 1856.

Smoke from the firing of the noon gun.


We continued around the upper level, checking out the views of Halifax from the cannon sites.

Leaving the Citadel, we are by the Town Clock which has been in service since October 20, 1803. The clock tower is a four story, octagonal structure atop a rectangular building. The clock itself is four-sided so that time can be seen from all angles. It has a 13 foot pendulum, which is suppose to strike quarterly and hourly, but we didn’t hear anything. The tower housing the town clock has been used in the past as a guard room and as a residence for the clock caretaker.

Town Clock with Citadel in background

The next sight was the city hall built in 1890. It is located at the north end of “The Grand Parade”. The Grand Parade is a military parade square that dates to 1749. The first contingent of British settlers in Halifax arrived in June, 1749. Charles Morris, the Chief Surveyor, worked on the town layout which comprised an urban grid made up of oblong, rectangular city blocks with the Grand Parade at the center of the town. The plan stipulated a church at the southern end of the square, and a courthouse and prison at the northern end. The church, St. Paul’s Church, opened in 1749. It was the first Protestant Church in Canada and is the oldest building in Halifax. The northern end remained vacant until the city hall was built in 1890. The parade is composed of green space, statues, memorials to peace officers that fell in the line of duty, and those that died in WWI.

St. Pauls Church, the oldest building in Halifax. We didn’t get a picture, so I downloaded this one from the internet 😁.

At this point, we felt we were ready to return to the ship. We did not make it out to Fairview Lawn Cemetery, which is the final resting place for 125 victims of the sinking of the Titanic. It is a distance out of town, and we had already walked almost 6 miles around town, so we didn’t make it to Fairview Lawn Cemetery.

We are back onboard with five more sea days before our next port, Reykjavik, Iceland, next Sunday, June 5, 2022.

After dinner we made it to the early show in the theater – comedy and improv. The guy was funny, which was a good thing. Then we went to the Wheelhouse bar for music and drinks before bed. We are having trouble finding a seat in Crooners, the martini bar, so we’ve been ending up in the Wheelhouse bar.

May 29, 2022: Sea Day. We went to a lecture about Reykjavik, Iceland which will be our first port in Iceland. It sounds a bit like Oregon or Washington, lots of brief showers and then it clears up. The lecturer, Bernard Hutchison ”Hutch” said Iceland is very expensive. A burger from a McDonalds is about $20, and a beer and a burger is about $30. We are planning to do a ”Golden Circle” tour with Viator, and apparently several others onboard the ship. We listened to Hutch’s lecture on Halifax on the TV in our stateroom as we had missed the live lecture on Saturday when we attended the meet and greet instead. We were lazy today and did not walk the decks. After dinner we went to the Wheelhouse bar for drinks and music, then to bed.

May 28, 2022: Another sea day. This morning we went to a meet and greet which is a gathering of people who have been chatting on the Cruise Critic message boards. There were probably over 100 people! I was on a mission to meet someone with the handle ”your nurse 13” as we are touring Reykjavik with Viator, but she is kinda the one responsible for directing us to Viator, and I did manage to find her. We had lunch with Nancy and Bill Young, and Susan and Rusty Anderson. These are people we had lunch with at Whiskey Joe’s in Clearwater before the cruise. After lunch and a little rest back in our stateroom , Dave and I walked the deck for a little over an hour to get in some exercise. Tonight is a formal night, but we do not get super dressy…actually, Dave forgot a tie this trip! But, he has his sport coat. Some men have tuxes. After dinner we had a drink in the wheelhouse bar and listened to two different bands playing music.

May 27, 2022: Sea Day! Not much happening. We went to an enrichment levture and then realized this is the same lecturer we had on our November, 2021 transatlantic with the same subjects. Today was the Bermuda Triangle. The evening show was a vocalist, and we skipped it.

May 26, 2022:  When we got up this morning, we had an email from Princess that one of our ports, Longyearbyen, had been dropped and they were adding two ports in its place. We will be going to Alta, Norway on June 20, and to Lofoten Islands (Gravdal), Norway on Jun 22. I am a little bummed as we were planning to do a dog sled (on wheels) ride in Longyearbyen.

We left home about 7:50AM and had no issues driving to the port in Ft. Lauderdale. We dropped our big luggage at the port and drove to the airport to return our rental car to Hertz. Dave was inquiring of the Hertz employees as to where to go to get a taxi, and the Hertz guy volunteered to drive us to the port. That saved us from running around to find a taxi with our carryon luggage, so we were very happy. Embarkation was pretty smooth, although there were a lot of people, so some lines. No one was checking for the time you were assigned to show up, so I am assuming people with later assigned times came early. As soon as we were on the ship, I called to make reservations for the “Chef’s Table”, so we will see if we get it this time….I am not hopeful. We are in a mini-suite, C205. It is not as large as some of the other mini-suites we’ve seen, so I’m glad we aren’t in a standard balcony cabin as I would think that would be really tight. Our balcony is probably twice as deep as the standard balcony cabin balconies, which is nice. 

As we sit in port waiting to leave Fort Lauderdale, we see a boatload of boats! This ship must be heading for some exotic port, and there are some pretty big boats onboard. I think two had names – Azure Dream, and Wind Dancer. 

We went to lunch in the dining room, and just as we were finishing our lunch, Dave spotted Regina and Larry who are friends of our friends, Wayne and Melanie.

We have lots of sea days on this cruise, so there won’t be much to write about on those days. On our typical sea day, we check the “Princess Patter” which is the activities for the day, eat, drink, go to the shows and listen to music in the various bars. In between we read and relax on our balcony or somewhere on the ship. 


May 25, 2022 – Our COVID tests were negative! We are in the final prep stage. I find it hard to decide how much mouthwash/toothpaste/contact lens solution/etc. to pack for 50 days. Most of the ports will be in ”the lands of long pants”, and most of our clothes are Florida clothes. We are pretty much packed however and we are taking two large suitcases, a roll-aboard, a smaller bag that fits under an airplane seat and maybe a zipper beach type bag for last minute stuff. We were also concerned about getting our rental car that we had reserved way ahead of time. Rental cars have been scarce, but apparently the rental car supply chain is loosening up…kinda. The car we got is a 2019 (!) with 30,000 miles. In the ”old days”, all the rental cars were current year or maybe 1 year old.

Our plan is to drive to Fort Lauderdale – we are in boarding group A, which boards at 11:00AM. It is a 3 hour drive, plus we have to return the car, so an early morning for us. We will see!

May 14, 2022 – Getting ready for our trip, only 12 days until we leave. Got an email from Princess that there may be times when we will be unable to connect to the interner. I am hoping to update my blog live, but internet connectivity may hamper that a bit . Another email from Princess indicates boosters will be required. Dave and I are prepared for that, as we got our 4th shot on May 2. Some European countries are requiring vaccinations and/or the last boosters to have been received less than 270 days ago. There are people on the message boards that are upset that Princess made that decision the end of April, just a few weeks before we sail. The booster has to be given at least 7 days before embarkation, so there is still a few days time for those who need to get boosted.

There won’t be much to write aboout on our many sea days – just what onboard events we go to, and what we had for dinner! We expect to experience a lot more cold weather than we are used to.

This is the itinerary for our 7 week trip:

On the Island Princess:

Thursday, May 26 Fort Lauderdale, FL4:00pm 
Friday, May 27 At Sea
Saturday, May 28 At Sea
Sunday, May 29 At Sea
Monday, May 30 Halifax, NS, Canada8:00am 5:00pm 
Tuesday, May 31 At Sea
Wednesday, June 1 At Sea
Thursday, June 2 At Sea
Friday, June 3 At Sea
Saturday, June 4 At Sea
Sunday, June 5 Reykjavik, Iceland8:00am 8:00pm 
Monday, June 6 Isafjordur, Iceland8:00am 6:00pm 
Tuesday, June 7 Akureyri, Iceland7:00am 5:00pm 
Wednesday, June 8 At Sea
Thursday, June 9 Lerwick, Shetland Islands, Scotland9:00am 5:00pm 
Friday, June 10 At Sea
Saturday, June 11 Cork (Cobh), Ireland9:00am 6:00pm 
Sunday, June 12 Falmouth (Cornwall), England7:00am 5:00pm 
Monday, June 13 London (Southampton), England6:00am 5:00pm 
Tuesday, June 14 At Sea
Wednesday, June 15 Haugesund, Norway9:00am 5:00pm 
Thursday, June 16 Olden, Norway8:00am 5:00pm 
Friday, June 17 At Sea
Saturday, June 18 Tromso, Norway9:00am 6:00pm 
Sunday, June 19 Honningsvag, Norway8:00am 9:00pm 
Monday, June 20 At Sea
Tuesday, June 21 Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen, Norway7:00am 6:00pm 
Wednesday, June 22 At Sea
Thursday, June 23 At Sea
Friday, June 24 Trondheim, Norway7:00am 7:00pm 
Saturday, June 25 Andalsnes, Norway7:00am 4:00pm 
Sunday, June 26 Skjolden, NorwayNoon 8:00pm 
Monday, June 27 At Sea
Tuesday, June 28 At Sea
Wednesday, June 29 London (Southampton), England6:00am

Fly to Germany for our Viking Land Tour and River Cruise:

6/29 – 7/2/22 Munich, Germany

7/3/22: Oberammergau, Germany for the Passion Play

7/4 – 7/5/22: Innsbruck, Austria

7/6/22: Basel, Switzerland

7/7/22: Breisach, Germany

7/8/22: Strasbourg, France

7/9/22: Speyer & Rudesheim, Germany

7/10/22: Koblenz, Germany

7/11/22: Cologne, Germany

7/12/22: Kinderdyke, The Netherlands

7/13 – 7/15/22: Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Celebrity Millenium 3/21 – 3/31/22

Ten days in an Aqua class stateroom, 1140. Our itinerary is:

Monday March 21, 2022: Depart Fort Lauderdale at 4:00PM

Tuesday March 22, 2022: At Sea

Wednesday March 23, 2022: Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic 7:00AM-4:00PM

Thursday March 24, 2022: San Juan, Puerto Rico 9:30AM-6:30PM

Friday March 25, 2022: St. Croix, US Virgin Islands 8:00AM-5:00PM

Saturday March 26, 2022: Antigua 8:00AM-5:00PM

Sunday March 27, 2022: St. Kitts 8:00AM-5:00PM

Monday March 28, 2022: St. Maarten 7:00AM-4:00PM

Tuesday March 29, 2022: At Sea

Wednesday March 30, 2022: At Sea

Thursday March 31, 2022: disembark Ft. Lauderdale about 8:30AM

 Due to the pandemic, all cruise lines require passengers to get a COVID test 2 days before embarking. Dave and I kept discussing what to do….Walgreens, CVS and Sarasota County offer free testing and there are at home proctored tests you can buy. Nine days before our cruise, we ordered two home proctored tests for $69. They were suppose to be delivered in two days, but due to a snowstorm, they were delayed. So we started looking for other options.  We didn’t want to drive to Sarasota if we didn’t have to. We could never get into CVS that was close – we’d have to go to Fort Myers, which is a bit of a drive. We couldn’t get into a Walgreens in Englewood as all the appointments were taken. But we could get appointments at a Walgreens in Port Charlotte. So we made our two appointments for Saturday morning, which was two days before our trip. This Walgreens does the rapid test and you get an email with your results in 2 hours. Before Saturday, our purchased home proctored test arrived, but since they have an expiration date in January, 2023, we decided to save those for one of our later trips and just utilize our appointments at Walgreens. Our appointments were at 10:30am, so we were expecting our email with the results by 12:30 or so. At 4:00, we had not received our results, so I called the Walgreens, and spoke to a recording for 5 minutes that was obviously no help. Finally I got transferred to the Pharmacy, and was told all the Walgreens were having trouble sending out their results, but they could print them out and I could pick up a hard copy. This Walgreens was about a 25 minute drive away, but I really wanted the results before I started to pack. So I hopped in the car and drove there to pick up the hard copy of our COVID test results. We are both negative for COVID. I asked if they would still be emailing the results and was told they would. It is now Monday, we are sitting on the ship, and we never received our emails from Walgreens. Fortunately the ship accepts hard copies so we were good. 

Monday, March 21, 2022: Driving to the Port in Fort Lauderdale was uneventful. We dropped off our luggage, parked the car, and were on the ship in about 15 minutes. We had lunch in the buffet, and watched a submarine out in the waters close to where we were docked.  

Then we enjoyed our Aqua Class balcony, #1140, on the back of the Celebrity Millennium ship. Funny, but we can see the Island Princess from our balcony, which is the ship we’ll be on for 34 days, at the end of May.

Island Princess

Aqua class is designed for people that utilize the spa, which we don’t. But it also has a separate dining room, Blu, with anytime dining, which we like. The entrees are a little different, more healthy, than the main dining room, but we’ve been able to order off the main dining room menu, too. We spent some time becoming familiar with the ship. Before dinner we upgraded my beverage package….just a pain that the classic beverage package doesn’t include San Pelligrino water and wine only up to $9 a glass, which is the headache producing stuff. Then we went to listen to some music in the Rendezvous Lounge with “Higher Love”, a band with 5 members – 2 guys and 3 gals. We had dinner in Blu: Dave had Thai Spring rolls, Filet Mignon and Apple Pie ala mode. I had blue cheese soufflé, Filet Mignon, and Chocolate truffle with cherry. After dinner we went to the theater to watch a magic show with  Gabriel. I thought he was pretty good, but Dave does not enjoy magic shows very much. He just went because I wanted to see the show. After the show we stopped for nightcaps at the martini bar. Our first night onboard we get to do one of our favorite thing….silent disco!

Silent disco in the Martini Bar

Tuesday, March 22, 2022:  Happy Birthday Wayne! Breakfast in Blu, and then a presentation on our 6 ports of call. We went to the Captains Club event after lunch and met the captain and his staff. I like this captain. He is very personable, tells jokes on his daily update, and shows up at various events on the ship. He is very visible. It’s a day at sea, so pretty laid back. We went to two trivia events where we did poorly, as usual.  Dave did better on the music trivia than the two of us did on general knowledge trivia. We visit various groups playing music around the ship.  We ate at Blu – another delicious dinner. I had rack of lamb and Dave had beef toranados from the main dining room menu. After dinner we cruised through Effy and we’re surprised to find they had my emerald ring, and the tanzanite ring that Dave did not buy. Then we went to the production show, Boogie Woogie. Before the show, the captain and staff were introduced and apparently the captain said he will be appearing in two comedy shows, so we’ll look forward to that. Boogie Woogie was very good as are most production shows. Lots of singing and dancing to familiar tunes, with a little bit of a story line. After the show we went to the martini bar, as did everyone else! A duo was playing, “Super Nova Duo”. So far, our favorite musical entertainers are the duo and Higher Love (4 musicians and a vocalist).

Wednesday, March 23, 2022: Today we are in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. We were here recently and did a ships tour, but today we are going to head out on our own. We had breakfast in Blu, and my plan was to follow an offline google map, with a little walking tour, but the main event was to visit the Amber museum. For some reason, I could not access my map, but figured we could get one when we got off the ship. Wrong! We had a very poor map with no street names, but at least we could figure out the general direction. Lots of police around to help us tourists cross the very busy streets. We walked to the Malecon, which is a Main Street along the water. We passed the firehouse, which was mentioned in the walking tour. 

None of the signs were directing us to the Amber museum. So we made a stab at it, and walked several blocks, not finding the museum. We asked an older gentleman who spoke Spanish and told us how to get there in Spanish, but at least pointed us in the general direction. We walked several blocks and asked a lady, who basically told us to follow her, which we did. She walked to the next corner and pointed to the right, and we could see a big building, which we figured was the Amber Museum. We found it! The entry fee was $2 USD per person and we got a guided tour! The original owner was wealthy and his wife collected Amber, which was the beginning of the Amber museum. All the pieces on display are from her collection. One on the things on the property was a perfectly restored Model A Ford. Then we saw a demonstration on making cigars. After he made the cigar, he offered it to us. We were a small group of 4, which was Dave and me and 2 ladies from Canada. None of us smoke and none of us knew anyone that smoked cigars, so we all declined his offer of the freshly made cigar. Then we walked through the museum and our guide told us everything about Amber, including how it is mined today. It is a very dirty, dangerous job, and the miners are paid based on their finds. The signature piece is a tiny lizard fully encapsulated in resin.

Lizard caught in resin

It is amazing to see mosquitos, cockroaches, flowers, and various other things fully encapsulated that are 5 million years old but recognizable today. 

Flower parts
Mosquito

Raw Amber would be unrecognizable to me.


After our guide walked us through the museum, she showed us a replica of an Amber mine, which she described as very rural. Then she showed us the process of making tobacco for the cigars, which takes more than a year. We saw the tiny seeds, plants in various stages, full grown plants and finally the leaves which are also put through a several month process before they’re ready to become a cigar. The end of our tour was a gift shop where you could buy Amber, cigars and various other souvenirs. We walked back towards to ship (which we could see in the distance), pausing in Independence Plaza, and checking out a couple of souvenir shops on the way back. We had seen some of the sights on our last visit to Puerto Plata, like Umbrella Street. There are shops and restaurants on each side of this street – the umbrellas obviously attract tourists!

Back on the ship and hot, we headed for the sunset bar, which happens to be directly below our stateroom, and had a couple of margaritas and some lunch. We had dinner in Blu and went to the show in the theater. The entertainment was a piano player, but he did more than play the piano. John Bressler was very entertaining with his comedy, music and singing with his raspy voice. Our routine is to stop by the martini bar before heading to bed.

Thursday, March 24, 2022: We have a Celebrity shore excursion today. It is a walking tour of Old San Juan. In reality, it was a walk to the fort, San Felipe del Morro Castle. The guide was very knowledgeable, but mostly in world military and political history. He was also a big (literally!) sports fan and would throw in sports talk along the way. So, we did not think the guide was the best. And, we got rained on. Our guide pointed out this building with a mourning flag painted on the door. It represents the difficult times our world has been through such as the pandemic and the war in Ukraine.

Mourning Door

The walk to the fort, and the entry to the fort. 

Long walk to entrance of fort
Fort entrance

Per our guide, one of the prettiest streets in San Juan, due to the colorfully painted houses.

Street with colorful houses.

Another couple, Bruce and Jean, in our group asked about “Can Can Pork Chops”. At the end of our 4 mile walk, the guide directed us to a restaurant and we joined Bruce and Jean. Can Can Pork Chops is a Puerto Rican dish. It is a huge piece of pork, about 12 inches long, but it has a lot of fat. Dave and I shared one with a local beer, and some Mofongo, which is another local dish. The best part of our tour was our enjoyable lunch with Bruce and Jean. Sorry I forgot to take the picture until we were almost done, but gives you an idea of how big the Can Can pork chop was. The roundish item was mofongo, and our waiter brought us the little container of orange sauce saying something about garlic.

Mostly devoured Can Can Pork Chop and Mofongo

Later, at dinner in Blu, we happened to sit next to another couple who had been on our walking tour. They had the same sentiments as us with regards to the guide. After dinner we went to the show and saw John Joseph, a comedian. We really enjoyed his show. He did “pick on” several people in the audience, and at the end of his act, he picked up his guitar and sang a little song about all the people he picked on. After the show, we stopped by the martini bar before heading to our stateroom.

Friday, March 25, 2022: We were up early and got room service breakfast because we have a Celebrity walking tour that stars at 8:30am. We are in Fredericksburg, St. Croix, USVI. Our guide is Robin, and she may not be as “brilliant” as our guide yesterday, but we enjoyed her tour much, much more than yesterday. Apparently her family has deep roots in St. Croix, but she was born in Brooklyn, NY and lived in California for 20+ years. She has been back and forth to St. Croix, but has lived here for the last 9 years. Walking down the long pier to exit the port area was a manned desk with local maps! We loved getting a map because we could not find a map in Puerto Plata even though we asked several times. We saw our first Moko Jumbie, which is a stilt Walker or dancer. Their stilts were about 10 feet tall! 

After passing out of the port area,  Robin pointed out a clock tower. The insides were made in the USA, and apparently were not made to withstand the salt sit. The clock works, but it never has the correct time.

St. Croix Clock tower with wrong time!

Robin then took us to the fort and explained the cistern, barracks, etc. There are several rooms and she gave us time on our own to explore. One room was dedicated to the Moko Jumbies, the men on very tall stilts. 

Moko Jumbies
Hard to read, but info on Moko Jumbies


There was a room devoted to the Taino Indians, who were the native people. There is a lot of Danish influence as the Danes were in St. Croix for many years. As we walked the streets, she pointed out several places of interest and spoke about the people who lived there and their influence on the island. There is an oil well, but it was deserted several years ago, and then restarted about a year ago. However, the equipment was old and not very up to the current technology, which resulted in a lot of pollution in Fredericksburg (The town where we are docked). The people in Fredericksburg complained so much, that the oil production shut down, and is currently not in operation. We stopped by a cultural building which currently has an art show with art from the local students. The lady in charge was very knowledgeable and told us about some of the youthful artists and their mentors. Upstairs, which we did not visit, was a woodworking shop where youth were being taught about woodworking. There are lots of chickens roaming around and one chicken wandered in the cultural building while we were there. 

Chicken

We walked uphill to one of the town cemeteries, passing the 4 main churches in town: Catholic, Lutheran, Anglican and I had not heard of the fourth one. These churches have been in St. Croix for many years, but recently they also have a synagogue and a mosque. She mentions there are Palestinians that have relocated here. One building that now houses the Governor, was originally the Danish school. I believe this school would have been active in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Even more interesting was the Danish school was in English! She pointed out several big, old trees such as a banyan tree and another tree that had an unusual fruit.

Banyan Tree also called Silk Tree

She pointed out a tree with termite trails – I hadn’t seen that before! Look close for black lines.

Termite trails heading up the tree

We walked up a hill in town to the cemetery where many of our guides ancestors are buried. She also pointed out her house which you could see, high up on a hill. She said the bottom level was a cistern, the first floor is an ArBNB and she and her husband live on the top floor. In the cemetery she pointed out graves that were covered in conch shells, without any other marker. Most of the graves were plots with a short cement wall and a plaque or headstone. She did not know how old the cemetery was. After visiting that cemetery, we walked past the Anglican Church and Anglican cemetery. She pointed out the stone bell tower on the Anglican Church which will withstand most storms. 

Anglican Church and Bell Tower

 The Anglican Cemetery had a sign with the date 1819. We saw several old structures that were being renovated, but there were several old structures that were in ruins. We walked back to King Street, which is the main drag and where carnival passes every December. Here our tour ended in a museum, which was more like an artists studio. Our guide had mentioned a vendor selling fruity beer that we would pass on our way back to the ship. So, of course we had to try the beer. A young lady was selling beer along the sidewalk – one beer was a heavier beer with lots of hops and the other beer was a lighter beer. I took the heavier one and Dave took the lighter one. The heavier beer had a very good flavor with a fruity taste. The lighter beer has less flavor, but Dave thought it was colder. We took the opportunity to sit on a bench in the shade and listen to a band in the grandstand playing island music, which included some Jimmy Buffett tunes. We wandered around the vendors and then walked back to the ship. We felt we enjoyed our tour today much more than San Juan. 

Caption not needed!

Back on the ship, we relaxed on our balcony and went to Blu for dinner. However we ordered off the main dining room menu. After dinner we went to a show in the theater. It was a singer, Lainie, and guitarist, Matt, and their show was “Legends of Guitar – A Tribute to the Greatest Guitarists of all Time”. We stayed for about 30 minutes, but just never got into the show. So we left and went to….the martini bar!

Saturday, March 26, 2022: we have a walking tour in St. John’s, Antigua today, “Legends and Lore of Antigua”. We met our guide on the port and she issued each of us a “Whisper System” set, which allows you to hear what the guide is saying, even if you are several feet away. Unfortunately, the guides speech was not clear so it was very hard to understand anything the guide was saying. The guide was wearing her headset around her neck instead of on her head, so we think the microphone was not positioned properly to hear her. Basically, I could not hear or understand anything she said, and Dave didn’t hear much better. The first place she took us was the market, which is an outside market, set up with dozens of vendors, selling various fruits and vegetables.  


Then we walked through the fish market. One lady was scaling fish. 

Lady scaling fish
Our guide with the yellow shirt, at the fish market

We walked some more and she pointed out various types of architecture, including the Methodist church. It was built of stone, but in a recent renovation it looked like they covered the stones with plaster and then painted it to look like bricks. We stopped for a bit and she showed us pictures of the local currency and local fruits. 

Then we walked to the Anglican Church which is very large. She said it would hold 2,000 people. But, it needed some serious repairs which were supposedly taking place. We wandered in the graveyard attached to the church and saw graves from the early 1700’s. While there, we saw one man sleeping on a stone slab covering a grave. She offered us a drink of fruit punch or rum punch while we were in the cemetery, too.

Anglican Church

Our next stop was a museum. It told some history of Antigua, sugar processing, and a statue of a popular sports figure. I enjoyed walking around the museum as the artifacts were well labeled. This display was about the first settlers to the island.

We left the museum and walked through the post office, where she pointed out Mail boxes that you could rent for $100 a year in order to get mail.

Finally, we walked thru a shopping area that was clean and obviously set up for tourists.

I was not happy with the tour, as I was expecting “Legends and Lore”, and I don’t think that is what the tour was about. I was only able to understand a very small amount of what she was talking about.

After our tour, we walked back to the ship. There are 3 cruise ships in Port with us today,  MSC Seaview, Enchanted Princess, and our ship, the Celebrity Millennium. There is also a British Navy Patrol boat.

HMS Medway

We were invited to the sail away on the helipad, on the front of the ship. Instead of the wine that they usually give you, they gave us Margaritas. Always a fun event – lots of people, but several officers and crew, too. I think it is a fairly shallow port as it seemed the ship stirred up a lot of sand as we left.

View of leaving port from the helipad

We went to hear some music in the Rendezvous Lounge before dinner, and then had dinner in Blu. We crashed early as the show in the theater didn’t sound that appealing. 

Sunday, March 27, 2022: We’re in St. Kitt and do not have a ships excursion today as we have been to St. Kitts before and it is a small island. I do like this island though. I found a self guided walking tour online and we are going to follow that. We had a leisurely breakfast and wandered off the ship about 10:00. Despite all the weather apps saying no rain, we ran into several showers and spent a lot of time ducking under awnings or stepping into covered doorways. 

Our first sight was The Old Treasury Building which is covered in scaffolding due to renovation. The Old Treasury Building also served as the Customs House. The write up said this domed building and it’s arches are a good reminder of just how rich sugar made the island. Unfortunately, due to the repairs, we did not take a picture. Our next stop was the Circus, which is a circular, open space with a small roundabout. In the center is a large green cast iron Berkeley Memorial Clock. It is a memorial to Thomas Berkeley, a former president of the Legislative Assembly. But the clock does not display the correct time.  

St. Kitts clock tower in the middle of the ”Circus”.

The next stop was Independence Square. Originally known as Pall Mall Square, it was built in 1790 for slave auctions and council meetings. It was renamed in 1983 to commemorate the independence of the island Federation of St. Kitts and Nevis from Great Britain. Nothing remains of its bleak origins. Instead, a large fountain decorates the center and the perimeters are bordered by old stone buildings and neat, aged, wooden structures painted in white and colorful pastels, all excellent examples of British Colonial architecture. 

Fountain

Bordering Independence Square is the Court House, Library and Church of the Immaculate Conception Catholic Church. We did peak inside the church as even though it is Sunday, the service is at 8:30am, and it is about 10:30, so no parishioners are visible. 

Catholic Church

After leaving the Catholic Church, we walked to another church, St. George’s Anglican Church. It is a large brownstone church located on an interesting and fiery religious battle site. According to the information I downloaded, it’s been destroyed so many times it’s difficult to tell whose side God ended up on, the French or the British. Originally, the French built the church “Notre Dame” here in 1670, which the British burned down in 1706. The British rebuilt 4 years later, naming their new Anglican structure after the patron Saint of England. However, a fire in 1763, an earthquake in 1843, a hurricane, then another fire in 1867 resulted in St. George’s being destroyed and rebuilt three more times. The current structure is the result of the last restoration in 1869. One other claim, that is a bit odd to me, is that the French Governor, Philippe de Longvilliers de Poincy, from 1639 until his death in 1660 is buried on the grounds. My confusion is he died in 1660 and the church was not built until 1670, 10 years later. There are several burial plots on the very expansive grounds. Most dates on the tombstones were unreadable, but we did see some from the early 1700’s. The photo is from the outside of the church, which appeared closed, so we could not enter. From the outside, the church looked to be in very good condition. 

St. George Anglican Church

Leaving this area, we passed the Methodist church, which seemed much smaller. We didn’t see a front door, although there was some music coming from inside. So we could not enter. 

This was the end of the walking tour I had printed out, so we headed back to the ship. Along the way, we passed the Government Headquarters and the public market – neither of which had any activity since it is Sunday. We notice most of the restaurants we passed were also closed on Sunday. Back on the ship, we headed to the sunset bar for some drinks – water and soda – and lunch. We will do some relaxing this afternoon, until the music starts up at sail away. Our captain has been pulling into port instead of backing in. Dave and I wish he would back in because we have a stateroom on the back of the ship, and if he backed in, we could see the town and watch sail away from our balcony. However, everyday they have been inviting people to the sail away on the helipad at the front of the ship. So if he backed it, the people on the helipad would not have as nice a view of the sail away. So, we go to the lounge on the front of the ship to watch sail away. Today, there is no bartender, so we left pretty quickly and went to one of the lounges to get a pre dinner drink and listen to music. We went to dinner a few minutes early because there was a vodka tasting event that I wanted to attend. Unfortunately, it was only one vodka, Belvedere Lemon I think. I tasted it and we moved on. We stopped in at Effy, the jewelry store, trying to negotiate a better price for a ring I want. We went to the show, and it was a soloist. He sang songs we didn’t know or didn’t like, so we left early and went to the martini bar to discuss purchasing the ring. We decided to go try on the ring, and ended up buying it. 

Monday, March 28, 2022: We are docked in Philipsburg, St. Maarten. There are 3 other boats in port with us – Aida Perla, Norwegian Epic, and a Seadream. We did an extensive tour the last time we were here, and I had printed out a little walking tour. Fortunately, we were able to pick up a nice map at the tourist information booth. Town is about a 15 minute walk, but you can take a land taxi or a water taxi. We elected to walk. There is a 30’ wide boardwalk along the water, and just a block in from the water is front street. We passed the Guavaberry store which was on my printout, but it was closed.  The Guavaberry store sold a flavored rum, and a sign on the door said to visit their store at the port. We will try to remember to do that. In the Guavaberry courtyard is a crossroads sign showing the distance to various places. We found it interesting that they show the distance to Evanston, Illinois instead of Chicago. 

Crossroads Signpost

In 1888, Roman Catholic Priest Father Nieuwenhaus passes away and donated two houses, a plot of land and $10,000 to the Dominican Nuns in the Netherlands, to open a school in St. Maarten. On June 2, 1890, the doors of the St. Joseph building were opened to children to attend school there. 132 children came to the new school. The school went into private hands in 1990, and in 2017 the buildings were damaged by Hurricane Irma. The current owners renovated the buildings in consideration of the historic nature of the buildings.

St. Joseph School building #1


St. Joseph School building #2

We passed another church and walked to the Court House. Built in 1793 as the home of Commander John Philips, the town’s founder, the building has served as a fire station, mail and post office over its long history and is one of St. Maarten’s most prominent landmarks. We were not allowed to enter – perhaps court was in session.  

Courthouse

The courthouse is on front street, so we walked over a block to the Philipsburg Boardwalk,  which runs along the water and beaches. The boardwalk is nearly 50 feet wide with all kinds of touristy places such as bars, restaurants, etc. I saw signs advertising 2 beach chairs, an umbrella and sometimes bathroom or drinks for $25. We passed a Methodist church from 1851.

Methodist Church

We also passed a Catholic Church with a plaque honoring St. Martin of Tours who lived 371 – 397! 

St. Martin


Many of the hotels along the beach looked pretty run down. 

We had been dodging rain the whole time we were off the ship, and had a pretty good rainstorm which delayed our return to the ship. It was a short walk from the pier area to town. We looked at several of the souvenir shops in the pier area and tasted Guavaberry which is a tasty rum. Back on the ship, we headed to the sunset bar and grabbed a late lunch and chilled out for awhile. We were suppose to have an early sailaway, so we went to trivia in the sky lounge to await sail away. An hour after we were suppose to leave the captain made an announcement that they were waiting for an ambulance. Apparently a passenger needed medical care that was not available on the ship. I am hoping it was not COVID, but no clarification was given. 

We have dinner reservations at a specialty restaurant, LePetite Chef. There is a set menu, and characters are projected on your table as the characters act out making each course of the meal.

Table cover is a projection onto your table that changes with each course

When the video is done, your food is placed in front of you. It is a 4 season, 4 course meal. The Petite chef meets his girlfriend in the Spring the first course, which was a cold pea soup. The petite chef and his girlfriend get married, build a house, and have kids in the Summer, second course, which was bow tie pasta with snow crab. The third corse has the children going off to what we assume was college, and the dish was a filet mignon. The last course was winter, and the children return with their spouses and the grandchildren and we were served a chocolate brownie with a scoop of ice cream. You were allowed to video the meal but I know it’s out on YouTube, so I just took one picture of the table which was white when we sat down, but a tablescape was projected on the table which also changed with the seasons. It was very cute and I enjoyed it. It was advertised as 3-D, and Dave has been moaning that it was 2-D and not 3-D, but I think he enjoyed it when we were eating dinner.

After dinner we went to the show in the theater which was “The Four C-notes”, a Four Seasons tribute band from Chicago. We enjoyed them very much. After “The Four C-notes”, we went to The Liars Club with the Captain, the cruise director and John Joseph (a very funny comedian). They are given a word and they give their definition. The audience claps to indicate who is telling the truth (the real definition) and who is lying. It is a really funny show. Then, time to grab our nightcap from the martini bar and go to bed.

Tuesday, March 29, 2022: We are done with all our port visits and we have two sea days before ending our cruise in Fort Lauderdale. The shops are having a sale, and we peruse the shops but don’t buy anything. Then a late morning wine tasting. We really don’t have much planned today, but will do some packing. We visited a bit with the future cruise representative, and spent some time trying to research a future cruise on Celebrity, but could not decide. We will just put down a deposit, which allows us to decide later. We were given some future cruise credits due to Dave complaining about the noise from the movies on the rooftop terrace, right over our head. We have a great stateroom and balcony on the back of the ship, but the balcony becomes unusable when a movie is being shown because it is so loud. In the evening after dinner, we went to the show in the theater, iBroadway. It was a production show with many show tunes. We enjoyed it very much. After the show, the cruise director, Alejandro, had a sit down with the captain. It was funny and cute. Captain Pierre served as staff captain under Captain Kate, the first female American cruise ship captain. They had some funny questions and answers. They showed pictures of the Captain, and his family, and pictures of Alejandro who is from Argentina. Captain Pierre is from Malta, but his wife is from Slovakia, so he lives in Slovakia now.

Wednesday, March 30, 2022: our last breakfast in Blu…we went back to the stateroom and packed pretty much everything we could. We ate lunch and went to the afternoon matinee in the theater. It was a rerun of 3 of the evening entertainers. The first up was Matt and Lainie who play Legends of Guitar classics  (Matt on guitar and Lainie sings and dances) and we did not like their first performance. The second was Marty Thomas, who told us his mentor was Glen Campbell. We enjoyed the Glen Campbell songs he sang, but again, did not enjoy the evening he performed in the theater. The last set was with the Four C Notes, and we really liked them at the matinee and the evening they performed in the theater. They’re a Four Seasons tribute band and just fun to watch. After dinner we went to the evening show in the theater which was an aerial acrobatic act. It was a young man and young woman from Ukraine. I think the fact they were from Ukraine made their act even more appealing. I was glad these two young people were not in Ukraine suffering from Putin’s war. They did a great job and we enjoyed their show. Of course we had to stop by the martini bar, and it was silent disco night which we love. Each person gets their own headset and it has 3 channels so you can pick the music you like, and switch back and forth if you want. 

Enjoying the silent disco

It was a fun evening and a great way to end our cruise. Our post party drinks….

Water!

Thursday, March 31, 2022: I think we had to be out of our stateroom by 8:00am, and we were ready by about 7:50. We ate breakfast in the main dining room (our only choices were main dining room or buffet) and finished just after it was our turn to disembark. We quickly found our luggage which had been off loaded during the night and walked to the facial recognition screens and to our car. The facial recognition screens are great and really speeds up going through customs – actually, there is no customs. No one asks what you brought back or what you bought anymore. Very quick and easy.

Regal Princess 1/22 – 27/ 2022

We booked this short 5 day cruise in May, 2021 with CRUCON for two reasons:

  1. At the time we booked this cruise, we were also booked for a world cruise starting in May, 2022. Before doing the world cruise, we needed 4 more days to get our Princess loyalty to the next benefit level, which would give us free laundry – a great benefit for a 107 day world cruise!
  2. We had cancelled a cruise during COVID before the cruise line cancelled it, and CRUCON charges a $50 per person cancellation fee, which can be applied to a future cruise and used as onboard credit.

Our world cruise was canceled in November, 2021, and we booked a 2021-2022 New Years cruise at the last minute giving us more than enough days to reach the top Princess loyalty level. So we really didn’t need this 5 day cruise. But we found our Ray & Celeste happened to have booked the same cruise, and it would an opportunity to try out our new Princess “elite” benefits, one of which is a stocked mini-fridge. When we booked the cruise, we went cheap, which was a mistake. We booked an obstructed balcony cabin, category “BW” #E424, which is the lowest category of balconies. Our view may have been obstructed by the lifeboats (aka tenders). Princess moved us to a “BD” stateroom, B628, because Princess is using the Obstructed Balcony cabins for isolating passengers that test positive for COVID while onboard. But we did also did not book the all inclusive package (Princess Plus). Trying to reach CRUCON to upgrade and correct the mistake has been a disaster. They have NO customer service. We will never book with them again. We may be able to upgrade once onboard.

Our itinerary is:

1/22/2022 11:30 AM Board Regal Princess in Fort Lauderdale

1/23/2022 At Sea

1/24/2022 Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos 8:00AM – 5:00PM

1/25/2022 Amber Cove, Dominican Republic 8:00AM – 5:00PM

1/26/2022 At Sea

1/27/2022 Disembark Ft. Lauderdale

1/20/2022: This morning, we decided to call Princess and see if there is any way we can upgrade. Princess is generally not able to talk to you if you’ve booked through a travel agent. Fortunately, there were notes on our file that we had been trying to upgrade, actually back to November. After long holds and explaining our problem more than once, we finally got to a reservation person. Again she told us Princess was unable to change our reservation, but she would try to help by contacting our travel agent. She was unable to reach the travel agent, also! So she got special permission to process our upgrade, and said she would notify the travel agent. She said she could see we were trying to do this for a long time. We were on the phone with Princess for 2.5 hours! After we got that straightened out, we did our COVID tests and they were negative! In the afternoon, Ray and Celeste came by to do their COVID-19 tests. Ray has a large phone and it would not fit in my tripod, so he used my phone to do the proctored test. In the middle of his test, my phone rang and it was CRUCON, the travel agent. Apparently they got the upgrade notice from Princess and finally decided to call me! I answered the call on my iPad since Ray was in the middle of his test. Basically I asked CRUCON what was going on with them. They said they thought things were getting better! I told them we were going to cruise, we were now happy with our stateroom and we were just going to enjoy the cruise. I was concerned with how much I was messing up Ray’s test and did not feel I had time to tell CRUCON what I really thought about them. We checked Rays test that he is suppose to be waiting 15 minutes for the results without touching the test. We noticed we’d lost the little video that we thought was monitoring the test, so we thought for sure the test proctor was going to tell us his test was invalid. But, nope! The proctor came on after 15 minutes, looked at the test via the web cam and said it was negative! Whew! Celeste took her test with no issue and she was negative also.

1/22/2022: We are driving to the port separately, because Ray and Celeste are planning to stay on board and do a back to back cruise. We had no issues driving, dropped our luggage and parked on level 4, orange. When we were boarding, our medallions were not working, apparently because we changed staterooms. They just asked for our passports, and then sent us to another desk where our new medallions were waiting for us. We turn around, and there’s Celeste! She tells us they won’t let her board because her passport is expired. They tried all different things including having someone go to their house, open their safe and dig out her birth certificate. Princess thought that might be acceptable. After about 3 hours of haggling and waiting, Princess tells them that the birth certificate is not acceptable for travel to the Dominican Republic, which is one of our 2 ports the ship will visit. Unfortunately, Ray and Celeste were not able to board. Dave and I are sick because we were looking forward to cruising with them. On the other hand, Princess took care of us, and upgraded us to club class. All this really means is we have a special dining room. The stateroom we are in is not normally club class, but I think Princess did this to make amends for the trouble we had with our travel agent. The stateroom we upgraded to is on the front of the ship. This is our view:

View from Regal Princess, M106

We have metal under the railing, where in regular balconies it would be glass. But our stateroom and balcony is bigger than a regular balcony. We wanted to be on the front on the ship as we had never cruised in a stateroom on the front before.

I have been trying to sign up for the Chef’s Table special dinner or the Winemakers Dinner. I tried on our New Years cruise, but it was already full. I signed up again as soon as we got onboard. They are not having a Chef’s table, but they are having the Winemakers Dinner. We’ll see if we get to attend.

I thought the club class upgrade was a mistake, but we went to lunch, they seated us in a special section, and we had upgraded napkins and tablecloth. They welcomed us to club class! So, I guess it’s for real!

We went to the Elite and Platinum happy hour, and had a couple nibbles and adult beverages. Then we went to the Wheelhouse Bar for a pre-dinner drink. We found out our favorite waitress, Junell (?), is now in the Vista Lounge, where we intend to go after dinner anyway. We have reservations for the Crown Grill, which was suppose to be Celeste’s birthday dinner. Dave had Sea Bass and I had Lamb Chops. Afterwards we went to the Vista Lounge to listen to a band, Project 5. We enjoyed their music, but it was a light crowd…maybe 20 people? When they finished, we went to the pool deck to watch San Francisco 49’s and Green Bay play. It was really nice to watch them on the big screen. I got cold before the end of the game, so we went back to our stateroom to finish watching there.

1/23/2022: Ray is still trying to work out the issues with Princess and hopes to make his next cruise 1/27/2022. We’ve been emailing, I’ve tried to help from the ship, but really not a lot I can do. Dave and I slept late. I have not been sleeping well the last month, and I think I made up for lost sleep!

Tonight is a dress up night. We had a light breakfast in the buffet and decided to walk on the walking track. We did 2 miles, which is 14 laps – a short track! Then we checked out the big screen in the daylight as the Tampa Bay Bucs are playing the LA Rams this afternoon. We went to a presentation on shore excursions, which was a waste of time. Several of the excursions they recommended were already full! We did find one we’re going to try in Amber Cove. We are planning to take a taxi into Cocktown at Grand Turk. We’ll see…We went to lunch in club class. After lunch, we went to customer service to ask our questions and hopefully resolve some of Ray’s issues. They gave me a business card, so at least I think I got a good list of contact info for him. Then we decided to check out to see if we can use our balcony while moving. We are on the front of the ship and we’re told we could not use the balcony when the ship was moving….but we could. It was really nice to sit out there. The balcony is oversized, and the metal front blocks some of the wind. We really enjoyed being able to use the balcony and chill for awhile. When the Bucs game came on, Dave decided he’d rather watch it in the room instead of the big screen by the pool. We tried to open one of our freebie Club Class wine bottles, but did not have a bottle opener! Had to call room service! The game was not going good, so I went down to happy hour and left Dave to his misery. The game was on in the happy hour lounge, but I didn’t think Dave would want to watch it in the happy hour lounge because there was no sound. Dave did come down, just as Tampa Bay was trying to turn it around, but it was too little, too late. The Bucs lost. ☹️

After happy hour, we went to our Club Class dining room. In club class we get extra menu items that are not on the menu – so I got escargot, but it was not the usual preparation – they were on little bread rounds. I also got lobster thermidore. Dave ordered off the menu and had a crab quiche for his appetizer and a beef dish for his entree. We caved in and not had bananas foster for dessert. After dinner, we went to hear the Project 5 band, but they weren’t as good as the previous night. We left a little before they finished and Dan Austin was playing the guitar in the Wheelhouse bar so we went to listen to him awhile. Only one show in the big theater tonight at 9:00PM,, and it’s a production show, “Bravo”. We saw the same show on the transatlantic cruise, but it is good. Basically just singing, but done by several different performers. After the theater we went to Crooners, the piano/martini bar. The piano player is Kevin Brando, and he is entertaining.

1/24/2022: We are in Grand Turk today. In the morning, we took a taxi to Cockburn town.

Taxi Fares

On the way to town we saw some of the wild donkeys and horses that roam free on Grand Turk. This is a small island with about 3000 residents. We went to the Turks and Caicos National Museum, for $5 per person, which is located in a two story house. There were several rooms with exhibits. A lot of space was dedicated to the Molasses Reef shipwreck, which some believe to be Christopher Columbus’ Pinta. However that claim is disputed. One room is dedicated to John Glenn who landed near Grand Turk in his space capsule. Another room was about salt production on the island, but ended in the 1960’s. We enjoyed walking through and seeing all the exhibits. When we finished we had a nice chat with the lady at the front desk. We asked about a lunch place and she indicated a place on the beach. We walked there, but it was closed. We decided to head towards the ship, and see if a taxi would come by to take us back. We didn’t see any taxis, so we walked all the way back to the ship which is suppose to be 3 miles, but we think it was a little longer. We saw several dogs laying in the shade, sleeping. Also saw another donkey and several horses.

Wild Donkey
Wild Donkey
Wild Horses showing us their good side 😁

We got back on the ship and had lunch. After lunch, we put on our bathing suits, got off the ship, and went to the beach that’s just in front of our ship. The water was “refreshing”…pretty cool getting in, but we got used to it after awhile. I was glad we broke down and finally got in the water! After the beach, we showered and went to happy hour and dinner. We plan to make it an early evening because we lose an hour tonight and we have an early excursion tomorrow. So we stopped at the Wheelhouse for a nightcap. While there, I got a FaceTime call from Lily and Mia! Because of the background noise on the ship – lots of things going on, I could not hear her very well, but it was nice to talk to her for a few minutes.

Grand Turk

Got a call from dining, and we did not make the cut for the Winemakers Dinner, and they had 2! I asked what was I suppose to do in order to be able to attend and of course there was no real answer. I think they felt sorry for me as they sent Dave and I a big bottle of wine with a note of apology! Dave said it’s a good wine!

1/25/2022: We lost an hour of sleep last night as our port today is Amber Cove, Dominican Republic and they are an hour ahead of us. We have scheduled a ships tour and we meet onshore about 8:20AM. We are going to Puerto Plata which means silver city.

Silver City

The bus drops us off in the main square and our guide tells us about a woman from Italy, named Bianca but they called her Blanco because she was white. She and her family operated one of the most famous hotels and was the best hotel in the country in the early 1900’s. She is remembered by the walkway and bench.

Bianca Franchescini De Rainieri

Then we walk to a storefront where there is a cigar rolling demonstration. Dave and I are a little bummed, because we are not interested in cigars, and picked this excursion because cigar rolling was not mentioned in the description, but was mentioned in other excursions. Anyway, we’re were told about the different tobaccos and they passed around tobacco leaves so we could feel them. An older gentleman demonstrated cigar rolling.

Making a cigar

We were able to try rolling a cigar if we wanted, but Dave and I weren’t interested. We went outside and watched the neighborhood cats.


After the cigars, we walked to the San Felipe Cathedral. It was built in 1956 over the ashes of an earlier 14th Century structure, burned down during the restoration war of 1863. After the first structure burned down, the works on the new church were started in 1870, then reconstructed in 1929 and completed in 1956.

Outside of San Felipe Cathedral
Inside San Felipe Cathedral

The Cathedral is on one side of Independence Square. So we were able to walk around the square to see the building that houses the Mayors office.

Mayor’s office building
View of mountains from street in front of Mayor’s office building

The office building is on one side of Independence Square. On the mountain is a Christ statue, but it is very hard to pick out from the above photo. Our guide spoke of the hero’s and their statues. Interesting that one statue of General George Luperon still has his nameplate, but the other statue, which looks like a white European guy, the nameplate is gone. So apparently some Dominicans must not think of him as a hero.

Independence Plaza with hero statues

We reboarded the bus and drove to Del Oro Chocolate Factory. We were given a demonstration on cocoa and making chocolate. Then we got to taste some chocolate butter spread, some cashew spread, and various piece of chocolate, ie milk chocolate, 55% chocolate, 60% chocolate, white chocolate, chocolate with rum, etc. Of course we were given the opportunity to buy some chocolate, which we did.

We had a scenic drive along the Malecon, which is the waterfront. We saw the statue of the King of the Sea on a small island.

King of the Sea

as our bus took us to the San Felipe Fortress which was built in 1564, to ward off pirates. The fortress which is on the waterfront is in a park like setting with lots of aggressive vendors and a lady with a donkey who would let you take your picture on the donkey…for a price, and a statue of the general on a horse.

San Felipe Fortress
General Gregorio Luperon
Lighthouse

After leaving the San Felipe Fortress, we drove to our lunch place. It was not the place described for our excursion. We thought we were going to a plantation with animals. This location had a garden with an art gallery and an 88 year old artist in residence. He had several drawings of the island, and a couple drawings of male nudes! Interesting! He said he was born here, so we assume on this property. There was a large garden with many plants, most of which we grow in Florida. Two interesting ones were a Cannonball Tree and Maraka Tree.

Cannonball Tree (non-edible)
Maraka Tree with gourd

People use the gourds from the Maraka tree for bowls. There is a koi pond on the property with many large koi, but apparently no blue herons.

We had a buffet for lunch with rice, chicken, chips, Chile, green salad, pasta salad, fruit salad and soda or water to drink. After lunch, we were given a sample of Dominican coffee and an opportunity to buy souvenirs from their gift shop.

We reboarded our bus and drove to the Macorix House of Rum for a rum tasting. First we walked through their storage room where the rum is aged in barrels from US bourbon factories. We watched a short movie about the original rum maker and moved to the rum tasting room. We tasted different rums: aged 4 years, 8 years, 9 years, spiced, coconut, apple and coconut water with rum. They gave us the samples so quickly it was really hard to judge the taste of each one. I bought a bottle of the coconut water with rum. It is more like a mixed drink, with more coconut water than rum. But, I liked it. Dave bought a small bottle of spiced rum.

Our tour was done and we were driven back to the ship. Dave did not turn in our alcohol purchases when we boarded the ship. You are suppose to turn over any alcohol purchased and then the ship returns it to you the evening before you disembark. Kind of a crazy rule for those of us with an alcohol package because any drink you want is included in your cruise price.

We went to the Captains Club party and found out there are 890 passengers onboard, and 102 elite passengers. This is our first sailing as Elite.

We went to dinner and I asked our waiter if we were going to have escargot this cruise, and he said he would try to order it special for our last night. After dinner, we went to the piano bar to listen to Kevin Brando again, and Dave has found out he likes milky way martinis.

1/26/22: Sea Day! After breakfast, Dave packed. Then we walked 3 miles on the walking track. Grabbed some lunch from the International Cafe, and took it back to the room. We showered to get ready for our Elite wine tasting. Dave is generally not big on wine tastings because he knows which wines he likes. we had a brut, Meiomi Chardonnay, two red wines and a sweet dessert wine. There were two presenters, and one was very funny with lots of jokes thrown in. So we did enjoy the wine tasting, if not for the wines, then for the entertainment value. Went back to the room to finish packing, and went to the Captains Club happy hour. We have enjoyed just relaxing and having a pre-dinner drink. Unfortunately, my drink tonight, Chairman of the Board, had too much gin, so it wasn’t very good. We went to dinner and our waiter had special ordered escargot for both of us! It was a nice treat, especially for our last night onboard. After dinner we went back to the martini bar to hear Kevin Brando. We chatted with him a bit and found out he got COVID during our New Years cruise and thats why there was so much shuffling of the entertainers.

1/27/2022: Disembarkation Day. We had our last breakfast in the Club Class dining room and headed off the ship. This port was using facial recognition, so you do not speak to a customs agent. You just look into a camera and then it tells you to go. My only gripe with this is you have to take off your mask, and they rush you along and don’t let you put your mask back on, but you’re in a government facility, so you’re suppose to have your mask on. We had to take a shuttle to the parking deck where our car was parked because the ship docked in a different spot than where it was when we left. It was a bit of a wait for the shuttle. We left the ship about 8:30AM, and were in our car by about 9:30AM, and a lot of that time was waiting for the shuttle. In the meantime, I am getting texts from Ray that they are in the passport office in Miami, and Celeste should have her new passport by noon. Later, about 1:30PM, they are on the ship! Bummed that we didn’t get to cruise together, but glad they got everything worked out and they are on the ship.

Regal Princess 12/29/2021 – 1/6/2022

12/27/2021 – With the current Omicron variant of COVID, Princess is requiring a negative COVID test 2 days before embarkation. We decided to drive to the Sarasota testing site to get a free test. You get what you pay for….We got there early, about 8:30 AM as it opens at 9:00AM. We were in row 13!!!! We had to wait 3 1/2 hours to get tested! The good news is we did get the results within an hour, and we were negative for COVID! This means we can pack tomorrow!

12/29/2021: This is is 8 day Caribbean cruise on Regal Princess. We are in stateroom M506

      12/29/2021 – Board at 11:30am

      12/30/2021 – Sea Day

      12/31/2021 – Sea Day

        1/1/2022   – Tortola, British Virgin Islands 8:00AM – 6:00 PM

        1/2/2022   – St. Kitts 8:00AM – 6:00 PM

        1/3/2022   – San Juan, Puerto Rico  7:00AM – 5:00PM

        1/4/2022   – Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos  12:00PM – 7:00PM

        1/5/2022   – Sea Day

        1/6/2022   – Ft. Lauderdale, disembark

So I am anxious to get on the ship early because I want to book reservations for the chef’s table. We got to Ft. Lauderdale about 10:30am, dropped our luggage, parked the car, showed our passports, vaccine card and negative COVID tests at least 3 times, and were on the ship by about 11:10am. Went to customer service to inquire about the chef’s table, and they don’t know if they’re doing it this cruise! Bummer! We had to soak up our sorrows at the bar on the back of the ship ☹️. Dave tried a taste test with couple of different Margaritas and I stuck to mojitos….until I switched to wine. Left port, still awaiting 1 of our luggage bags…. Yikes! The ship plays the Love Boat theme. Then, passing condos before heading out to sea, there are some people with a huge Princess flag and they played the Love Boat theme again for them. Cool! Still no luggage. Called the dining line and was told no chefs table this sailing. Asked about Wine Makers dinner and told it was already booked. I am not happy. Dave gets a call from customer relations that they have our luggage. Finally brought to us with a sticker on it the says “alcohol”. Really? We have the beverage package … why would we try to sneak alcohol aboard? Oh well, we finally have all our clothes 😁.

We had dinner and the evening entertainment did not look exciting. After dinner, went back to the bar on the back of the ship and enjoyed a few more adult beverages before heading to the stateroom. 

12/30/2021: Sea Day! Attended destination presentation which is a discussion on the ports we will be visiting. Went to our favorite new bar of the day on the back of the ship and just chilled. Princess uses a “medallion” app and you can order anything from anywhere and it will be delivered to where you are sitting. We sat there late morning, on the back of the ship, for over an hour, near the bar, and not one server approached us. I think the servers are only responding to orders from the app. Dave doesn’t agree with me, but we’ll see. He said we could have flagged someone down. That’s true, but it used to be the servers would approach you when you sat down. We were at the same bar yesterday and the servers did not approach us. I ordered from the app. After lunch we went to Trivia. We did not do well – only 7 out of 20 questions. In our defense, you can have a team up to 6 people, but our team is just 2….Dave and me. We went to the Captains Circle Happy Hour, and I had my first Chairman of the Board drink, which is unbelievably good considering it is a blend of Vodka and gin, and I think Cointreau. At dinner, we found one of the waiters we had on our November transatlantic – Attilla. He is a big, friendly guy with a loud voice! But we liked him, so glad we can ask for him at dinner time. We went to the evening show. The entertainment was a vocalist, who also played the trumpet, Dan Delgado. He was backed by the Princess orchestra, and despite our concerns, he was entertaining. After the show we went to the marriage game, which is always hilarious. It was held in Princess Live!, which is a smaller venue, and it was packed! Not a good situation with COVID-19. No social distancing! Of course, we wore our masks, but only about 95% of everyone else did. It’s always those 5%…… Tonight we lose one hour of sleep, turning our clocks forward one hour.

12/31/2021: Another sea day….spent a lot of time enjoying the ship and relaxing. Went to a presentation on the last two ports, ate lunch In the piazza, went to a quiz on destinations, which was actually a Princess advertisement, and a trivia. We did better in the trivia, but did not agree with the answer to one of the questions. Not that it mattered as far as our final score…. We went to the captains circle happy hour. While there, the captain announced we are not going to San Juan, Puerto Rico. We were not surprised based on what we heard before the cruise. Puerto Rico is requiring COVID testing before letting passengers disembark, and our ship is just not prepared to test 2200 passengers all at once.  The ship is going to St. Thomas instead. We will probably just wander around the St. Thomas port, having been there before. After our little happy hour, we went dinner, which was a little special…I had a lobster tail and Dave had Beef. Then we went to the martini bar, but the entertainer was not feeling well, so he didn’t show. We moved to the wheelhouse bar where the guitar player played. That was much better. We decided, based on Omicron, not to go to the main New Years  celebration around the pool…I know, we are wimps ☹️. Dave is talking about how we’d be home by now if we went to Flemings, which was our original plan. Unfortunately, we waited too long to book, so we could not get reservations at Flemings.  

We  retreated to our stateroom by 11:00 to privately celebrate the new year. The ship is decorated beautifully for the holidays. This is a picture of some of the gingerbread houses onboard:

Gingerbread Houses as part of Christmas Decorations

Happy New Year!

1/1/2022: This morning we are in Tortola. We have not been to this island before. It was one of the ports we were suppose to visit on our August Celebrity cruises, but was dropped from the itinerary. We went on a 3 1/2 hour excursion in a taxi.

The taxis have long seats for 4 people and ours had 5 rows. I’m sure during non COVID times lots more than 4 people sit on each long seat. The roads are windy with hairpin curves and lots of up and down the hills/mountains. 

Our Taxi

The first place we stopped was an African Church. Not many people got out, because they had trouble climbing in and out of the taxi. Dave and I were able to climb in and out.

Remaining structure of church
Remaining structure of Church

I found it interesting they used molasses as a binder.

After checking out the church, we drove some more, eventually we will drive around the whole island. Our driver is a bit hard to understand, but he points out local spots like the post office, community center, police station, resorts, restaurants, grocery stores, etc. He stops in a couple of overlooks to give us photo opportunities of the neighboring islands and the beautiful sea.  

Our ship is in this one.

We stopped briefly at Cane Garden Bay and were offered water or fruit punch. There is a beach here, and I think pre-COVID, probably some shops. Of course, today is New Years Day, and maybe most places are closed because of that. There was a bar open, and bathrooms, but otherwise the main attraction was the beach. We drove some more and made another stop at Pusser’s Landing. Most of the shops were closed, but there was a restaurant, a clothing store and grocery store open. Pusser’s Landing is in Soper Hole which is home to a marina. I imagine the grocery store is for stocking up boats. I saw a few people from the marina taking advantage of the public showers. After our visit to Pusser’s Landing, we drove back to the ship. It was a scenic drive with lots of beautiful long views. 

We got back to the ship around lunchtime and decided to try Alfredo’s Pizza, which is one of the included restaurants. It was pretty busy at lunchtime. Dave and I both ordered pizzas, as they are 12”, thin crust, personal pizzas. There are chefs making the pizzas from scratch, and you can watch them. We thought the pizzas were OK, but certainly not the best we ever had. After lunch we walked around the port area, but again, very few places were open. 

Tonight we have dinner reservations for the Crown Grill, a specialty restaurant. We went to the Wheelhouse Bar before dinner to hear Dan Austin, a guitarist we like, but his schedule had been changed. I think one of the entertainers got COVID, so they are switching things around. We had a good meal in Crown Grill – I had lamb chops and Dave had Sea Bass. We tried to get another reservation for another night, but the Crown Grill was fully booked. We finished dinner late, missed the shows, so just went back to our stateroom.

View of Tortola from our stateroom

1/2/2022: Today we are in St. Kitts and have booked a ships excursion. Our guide is Jaja and his vehicle is GT77. It is a 3 hour tour, and Jaja is a great guide and driver. He gives us a running commentary on St. Kitts, he was easy to understand, and very entertaining. He paused along the road in several spots to point out highlights. He pointed out petroglyphs, which was a fertility symbol; St. George’s Anglican Church which was originally built in 1670, then burned by the British in 1706 and rebuilt 4 years later and has subsequently suffered a fire, earthquake and hurricanes, and was again rebuilt in 1869. He pointed out Bloody Point and Bloody River which is where British and French forces came together to massacre over 2000 native Carib Indians causing the river to flow with blood for 4 days. Jaja pointed out the extinct volcano, Mt. Liamuiga, which created the island as a result of the lava flows, centuries ago. There are hikes that go up the volcano, and you can go down into the crater which is 1000 feet deep and 1 mile wide, with a small fresh water lake at the bottom. But that volcano hike is not part of our tour today….or probably any day!

Petroglyphs
Petroglyphs- a pregnant woman and a man
St. George Anglican Church
St. George Anglican Church


Our first real stop was Romney Manor. This land was originally claimed by Samuel Jefferson II, the 3rd great grandfather of US President Thomas Jefferson. Samuel Jefferson later sold part of the estate to the Earl of Romney. Our guide told us the Earl of Romney travelled a lot and brought back exotic plants which he planted on his estate. Today, the gardens are a beautiful setting with lots of plants.There is a bell tower still standing which was used to tell slaves when they were to go to work or when the work was done. Most bell towers have been destroyed because of their symbolism, but Mr. Romney was a benevolent owner, so this bell tower is probably the last bell tower still standing. The original manor house has been partially restored, and now houses Caribelle Batik. These are artisans who create designs by hand, on fabric using a wax and dye process known as batik. Of course there is a gift shop when you can buy their products. 

Bell tower in the background.
and unfortunately I’m in the foreground.


Our second and last stop was The Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park. The first cannon were mounted on Brimstone Hill in 1690 by the British in an attempt to recapture Fort Charles on the coat from French occupation. The fortress was designed by British Army Engineers and built by African slaves. The British and French alternatively fought and regained control of the fortress over the years. The fortress was a abandoned in 1852. The Society for the restoration of Brimstone Hill was formed in 1965, and in 1973, HRH Prince Charles reopened the first restoration. In 1985, Queen Elizabeth signified Brimstone Hill Fortress as a National Park, affirmed by legislation in 1987. The Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. 

Brimstone Hill Fort
View from top of Fort

Upon returning to the ship, we walked around the port area when there are shops. Many shops are shuttered, and I don’t know if that’s because today is Sunday or because many shops have not reopened due to COVID. Our guide, Jaja said that pre COVID, St. Kitts would get as many as 17 ships a week. He said now they get about 12, and today they were suppose to have 3, but one had to cancel because it had too many COVID cases onboard ( more than 1%). However, the second ship must have been turned away, as the only ship in the port was our ship. Jaja also said all the shops in town would be closed today because it is Sunday. St. Kitts has a VAT tax of 17%, because they do not have an income tax. However, the stores in the port area are exempt from charging VAT tax. We debated getting a Carib beer, local beer brewed in St. Kitts, but decided to go back to the ship instead.

After dinner, we went to the show, which was a two person act “Five O’Clock Somewhere”, a man playing guitar, and a woman playing keyboard and piano. Mostly music, but she did sing “Hallelujah “. We enjoyed their show.

View of St. Kitts from our stateroom

1/3/2022: Today we are in port at St. Thomas, which is the port that was substituted for San Juan. We docked at the Haverhill port – St. Thomas has two ports for big ships. We did not book an excursion, and we have been her a couple of times in the past. Our plan was to possibly take the sky ride to “Paradise Point” where they serve a rum drink, Bushwacker”. We took our time getting off the ship, and started walking around. I told Dave I did not see the point in spending $25 each to take the 7 minute sky ride just to get an alcoholic beverage. He did not argue. So we wandered around, and walked through the shops in the port area. There are many shops that are not open and probably won’t reopen due to no tourism for 18+ months. We spotted a huge mast and I could not believe it was on a ship, but it was! It was very unusual and not the typical yacht. 

Picture of big yacht, and second picture comparing it to our ship.


While wandering thru the port area, we saw many other large yachts, and it just makes you wonder who owns these things. 

Dave remembered where a grocery store was from a previous trip, so we went there looking for Pringle’s for Dave. They only had “Pizza” flavor, so Dave bought some Lay’s Stax, which must be a competitor to Pringles. I hope he likes them. We walked back towards the ship, and it is a beautiful day. We stopped at an outside bar to sit and enjoy the view. We finally get a Carib beer, which is suppose to be a Caribbean beer. Looking at the label, it was brewed and bottled in Cape Canaveral, Florida. The all aboard time is 2:30PM, which is early. But we decided to go back to the ship and have lunch at the international cafe. Then we looked for a place to sit outside, but all our favorite places were already taken, and it was very hot in the pool area, so we decided to sit on our balcony. 

View of St. Thomas from our stateroom with Skyride going up the mountain

Today our side of the ship is facing the port, and sure enough, we got to enjoy some port runners who were late for the ship.

The captain was tooting  the horn, I think giving notice that the ship was ready to leave. This is unusual, because he usually plays the Love Boat theme as we are leaving.Then we found out people were missing and not back onboard, so the horn was for their benefit. Two couples were very late and didn’t get to the ship until 3:10, and the ship was suppose to leave at 3:00. The captain made a couple of announcements about them – first at about 2:50 saying 2 couples were not onboard and he would only wait until 3:00. Then about 3:00 he made another announcement that they had found them and they were 10 minutes away, so he waited for them. Everybody onboard was hooting and hollering at them as they came within site and were running for the ship. I am a bit surprised they waited so long, but probably St. Thomas did not want to deal with getting them back to the states with COVID raging. 

Tonight is formal night, our last formal night thank goodness. I’m not getting super dressed up, just wearing a long black dress. Finally had escargot for my dinner appetizer. After dinner we went to the show, which was a split show. The first half was a comedian, and the second half was two magicians. After the show we went to crooners martini bar to listen to Dan Austin, the guitarist.

We gain an hour tonight….an extra hour of sleep!

1/4/2022: our arrival at Grand Turk is scheduled for noon, but we actually arrive about 11:00am. It was very interesting to watch the captain maneuver the ship along side the dock.

Regal Princess approaching dock in Grand Turk

Made me feel really bad about the way I maneuver crew boats into our beach at Indian Mound Park. There is one long dock, and the Holland America Rotterdam was already alongside the dock on the north side. It looked like we were heading right for the Rotterdam, but the captain glided right along side the dock on the south side. The dock is about 25 or 30 feet wide, and these are big ships. It was really amazing to watch. 

Then the captains signaled each other with their horns, with ours playing the Love Boat theme with his horn. I have to admit, that is a cool feature on the Princess ships. Carnival Corporation built the dock, and the adjacent village, which houses the worlds largest Margaritaville. Since the dock will only hold 2 ships, they had a full house today and most of the shops were open to the captive audience of the Regal Princess and the Rotterdam. Right as you walk off the dock, there is a huge beach, which also happens to be right in front of Margaritaville. Dave and I are not beach people, so we decided we’d have lunch at Margaritaville. We both had burgers and Margaritas. The island charges a 12% tax and Margaritaville charges a 15% service fee, so our bill was about $61. Kinda funny that all these people, including us, that can eat free on their respective ships decide to pay inflated prices at Margaritaville. We wandered around all the shops, but we don’t need any more souvenirs, so we just wander and look. The jewelry stores everywhere are more aggressive, trying to get you to try on jewelry, but I just want to look, so it’s frustrating. I end up not even looking because I can’t deal with the sales people, so there’s no chance I’ll see something I like because I can’t just look. We got back to the ship fairly early and we’re able to snag two seats at the back of the ship. We watched the Rotterdam leave, and the captains had another battle of the horn with our ship playing the Love Boat theme, and the Rotterdam just tooting. We watched a beautiful sunset. After the Rotterdam left, I got a picture of the beach, and Margaritaville, at the end of the pier: 

Margaritaville and beach at Grand Turk

Amazing how close the beach is to the ships!

Trying to show how close the beach is to where our ship is docked.
Makes me look tiny!

1/5/2022: Today is a sea day as we head back to Ft. Lauderdale. We packed, spent some time lounging in the pool area, and packed. I gave in to my craving for a frozen Margarita and it was delicious! But as a result, I wasn’t ready to eat at our reserved time, so I changed our dinner reservation to a later time. After dinner we went back to our room, and found our room steward took it upon himself to move all our bathroom items from the shelves to the countertop so he could clean the shelves in preparation for the next occupants. Dave and I were pissed! During this time of COVID-19, we did not appreciate him touching our stuff – even our toothbrushes! Dave called Customer Service and complained. Then Dave opened the door to our stateroom and happened to run into the room steward. Dave let him know we were not happy with him. When I did the post-cruise survey, I also stated how unhappy we were that he would touch our personal items. Disappointing way to end our cruise.

1/6/3022: Disembarkation was easy and quick. We got up about 7:00am, showered, went to breakfast at 8:00, and left the ship about 8:45. We were in our car and on the long drive home before 9:15.