Ft. Lauderdale to Amsterdam, 5/26-7/15/2022

July 14, 2022 (Thursday): We had a nice leisurely morning, although we were up pretty early. We left our hotel room a little before noon in search of a place for lunch. One of my apps had a list of Amsterdam pubs, so we headed out in search of the oldest one which was close to our hotel, Cafe Karpershoek. We found it, but did not like the menu, so we went next door. I had a chicken club which was basically the same as Dave’s Chicken Schnitzel except mine was in bread. After lunch we walked to the Palace. The Palace was not always a palace, but originally built as the town hall. Construction started in 1648 and while it was being used in  1655, it was not completed until 1665. The Netherlands was a republic at that time. When it was built, it was called the eighth wonder of the world. It was a hub of activity. All sorts of city business was conducted here. It was the administrative hub of the city. The four mayors and city councils, the courts, city jails, tax authorities, an exchange bank, insurance and bankruptcy offices, and much more conducted their business in this building. At the end of the 18th century, the Bavarian Republic was proclaimed in the Netherlands and the Governor, William V of Orange-Nassau fled to England and the Netherlands became an ally of France. In 1806, Napoleon appointed his brother, Louis, as king of Holland. Louis decided the only building fit to be his palace was the town hall building, and Louis converted the town hall into his palace. Louis was loved by the people, but Napoleon expected a more pro-France policy from his brother. In 1810, Louis abdicated. The people liked having a king, and from 1813, the son of William V, became King William I, of the Netherlands. William I was the first king of the House of Orange (aka William of Orange). The current King is a descendant of William of Orange.

This palace is not the primary residence of the current king, and it was only used sparingly by most of his predecessors. The Kings primary residence is in The Hague. 

Our tour told what the rooms were originally used for when it was the town hall, and then how  the rooms are now being used as part of the Royal palace. 

When we entered the Palace, the first room we saw was the Citizens’ Hall, the heart of the building. It is a huge hall: 55.5 ft wide,  88.5 ft high and 111.5 feet long. It provided access to the offices of the city government and the judiciary which lay beyond and on higher floors. Today, this is where state banquets, gala dinners and various award ceremonies are held. There is lots of statuary, but the most impressive is Atlas holding up the universe. The chandeliers are beautiful.  

This is a photo of the ceiling. 

There is a hallway around the outside of Citizen’s Hall, which leads to the other rooms we visited.

The throne room:

Current King’s sitting room: 

Former Council Chamber: When the building was the town hall, the four mayors met with their advisors in this room. King William III arranged the installation of the 1,587lb. chandelier which came from Paris. This room is currently used for smaller dinners and official photographs. 

 King Louis Bonaparte added a balcony to the building, and while we could not go out on the balcony, this is the view just inside, looking out over the balcony.

The current kings great grandmother was Queen Wilhelmina (1880-1962). She used the Amsterdam Palace the most. She ascended the throne at the age of 10 after her father’s death, but her Mother guided her until her inauguration at age 18. She has remained a popular figure in the Netherlands. She ruled for almost 58 years, longer than any other Dutch monarch. This is a portrait of her at age 20. 

During state visits, the visiting head of state stays here. In 1946. Winston Churchill spent a whole week here. It was used by King Louis Bonaparte, and was his bedchamber. It is called the “Bedroom of the English Quarter”, which may have resulted from Churchill’s visit. Before it was a palace, this room served as the Insurance Chamber. The city government realized that trade in the city, and thus the city itself, benefited from some form of insurance for ships and cargo against disasters, theft and liability. The insurance premiums were so attractive that many foreign merchants decided to insure themselves in Amsterdam. 

In the Tribunal, death sentences were pronounced. The death penalty was not treated lightly and was administered four times a year on average. We were told the story of one young woman, 18 years old, Elsje Christiaens, from Denmark, who had come to Amsterdam to work as a maid. In a panic, she killed her landlady with an axe. I’m not sure what kind of panic would cause her to do that, and I had no one to ask. On the day of her execution in 1664, she appeared in the Tribunal before the magistrates who sentenced her to death. Her sentence was read publicly, and after praying for the salvation of her soul, she stepped onto the scaffold where she was strangled and symbolically hit on the head with the axe used for the murder. Elsje’s body was left on public display as a warning to Amsterdammers and foreign visitors.  

The Tribunal

We saw many more rooms, but this is a sample.

After the palace, we had a cheese tasting planned, but had about an hour before the cheese tasting. We found a cute plaza with a statue of Rembrandt with tables and chairs. So Dave had a glass of wine and I had a Bavarian beer. 

The cheese tasting was part of the Henri Willig cheese producer. We heard the whole story – Henri’s father was a dairy farmer and Henri inherited the farm. He wanted to do more than produce milk, and I’m sure make more money. So he learned to make cheese. We tasted 5 different cheeses (2 pieces of each cheese) and could dip them in sauces if we wanted to. The sauces were a brown whole grain mustard, balsamic glaze, and I wasn’t sure what the third one was but it could have been a cranberry sauce as it was sweet and somewhat fruity. The board looks large, but there were 6 people at our table. Henri Wellig also produces beer and wine, and we each got 2 drinks of our choice. Dave chose wine, he got a white and a port.  I chose beer and got a Pilsner and a dark beer. Youngsters got orange or apple juice.

The cheeses we tasted were fenugreek, pesto cheese, goat gold, smoked cheese and goat cheese extra old. The fenugreek is an herb common in Indian dishes. It gave the cheese a hint of walnut flavor. They were all very good and of course we bought some and brought them home.


We did not need a big dinner after the cheese tasting, so we just had an adult beverage (or a few) and shared an appetizer of bitterballen. We had bitterballen on the ship and enjoyed them – it is a Dutch meat based snack. I may try to make them at home.

Tomorrow we fly home as we are at the end of our 50 day vacation. It will be a long day, as we have to be up by 6:00am Amsterdam time which is midnight in Florida. Then we won’t get home until midnight, so a 24 hour day assuming no delays.

The End 😳!

July 13, 2022 (Wednesday): We are winding down from our travels. Today we disembarked the Viking Sigrun and moved to the Doubletree Centraal Station Hotel. Actually, we are very close to where our ship docked. We arrived at the hotel by about 9:30am, and fortunately they had a room available that early. The room itself is fine, but we have NO view, and people walking down the hallway can see into our room. Dave is pretty unhappy with the room, but I don’t plan on spending much time in the room. 

We rested up a bit, and Dave checked out a couple of tours. For today, we settled on a 3 hour walking tour that started at 2:00. We left the hotel about 11:30 and decided to walk towards where we were to meet the walking tour and look for someplace to have lunch. It turned out that the tour starts in a little park in front of the “new” stock exchange building, and next to the first stock exchange building. The first stock exchange building had a little bistro, so we had lunch there and waited for our tour to start.

First stock exchange building where we had lunch
Pretty flowers in front of the first stock exchange where we had lunch

Dave asked about the building where we had lunch, and the guide told him it was the first stock exchange building. But they outgrew the first building, and it became the commodities exchange, and the new exchange was built. While we ate lunch, we watched the ticker roll by on a sign above the new exchange building. There was a big bull statue outside the new building, too.

Our guide told us that Amsterdam had the first stock exchange. In the Middle Ages, Amsterdam wanted to be able to send ships to the Middle East for slices, but could not afford to but the ships needed to travel to the Middle East. So they sold shares in order to raise money to build ships. This was the first stock exchange. 

Just interesting images on a building
Another interesting image

He also told us an interesting story about prostitution and the Catholic Church. Lots of sailors visited Amsterdam, and the government would look the other way because they felt the prostitutes were saving the good girls, the virgins. The sailors were superstitious, so before they went back to sea, they would confess their sins, pay a little fee, and be absolved of their sins. 

We walked past a bilding that used to be a gate to the city.


Houses in Amsterdam that lean!

The guide took us to the old Jewish part of the city. He said when the Nazis invaded Amsterdam, there were lots of promises that life would go on as usual and the Jews would be left alone. So, there was no resistance in Amsterdam. But the. The nazis asked for a map of where everyone lived, so they knew where the Jews lived and began deporting them. Amsterdam became cut off and all the people were starving. Besides, they had harsh winters. Since the Jews had all been deported, their houses were empty and deserted. The remaining citizens destroyed the Jews homes to salvage the wood so they could burn it to keep warm. Our guides comment was the Jewish community was destroyed, but not by who you’d think. 

The guide talked about the rulers. The Netherlands used to be a republic. Netherlands was conquered by Napoleon in 1810, who abolished the republic, annexed Holland to France,  and made his brother the King of Holland. Then the French were driven out in 1813, but the people liked having a king. They called back William Of Orange, the son of the last stadtholder  (national leader) and the current King of the Netherlands is a descendent of William of Orange. Our guide commented that it was the only country he knew of that was a republic but became a monarchy. 

One house he pointed out to us was build by a very wealthy person, he was a slavetrader. He would pick up Africans and take them to the USA and bring back tobacco and other American products. The images on his house are of Africans.

Out tour ended at the palace, which doesnt look likeva palace because originally it was city hall.

Palace

Our guide was a former teacher and said he preferred to talk to people who wanted to listen to him, compared to students who don’t want to listen. He was very entertaining and we walked with him around Amsterdam for three hours!

After our tour, we had to sit down for awhile. We had seen The Grasshopper bar and restaurant earlier, so we stopped there to rest and get a couple of glasses of wine.

I look tired…for good reason!
The Grasshopper where we had wine

Then we walked back to the hotel to decide where to have dinner. It was impossible to find a restaurant close to us that posted their menu online. We finally just went down to the restaurant in the hotel, Eastwood Beer &Grill. Dave had Salmon with risotto and I had shrimp with risotto, but my risotto was different from Daves mine had pumpkin and almonds mixed in. It was very good. Dave thought his risotto was better, of course.

Amsterdam Train Station
May of our walk today from my May My Walk app
Group picture of our walking group. Dave and I were the only Americans!

July 12, 2022 (Tuesday): we spent a lot of the day cruising on the Rhine. We saw cows in the water, and there is a lot of river traffic. We see barges carrying gas, liquid natural gas and coal.

Cows enjoying a swim in the Rhine
One of many barges, this one carrying coal

We got to Kinderdijk about 4:00PM for our walking tour in the windmills of Kinderdijk. 

We had a walking tour in Kinderdijk. The guide was very informative explaining how the windmills work. Not being very mechanical, what I remember is that the windmills lifted water up into the oceans and rivers so the land became inhabitable. In old times the process was done using windmills, but now it is done with modern pumps and machines. our guide pointed out a lot of plants and flowers. It seems this area is a park, and they have many areas of wikdflowers.

There were many windmills in this area.




There was a story our guide told about a flood and the baby was floating on the water. The cat came and was balancing the cradle to keep it from turning over in the water, causing the baby to fall out and drown. (We heard a couple of versions of this story).

Cat in the Cradle

We were able to tour a windmill. A family lived in the windmill and the husband was responsible to move the blades so they would catch the wind and turn. This in turn moved the water up. The windmill we toured was a family with 13 children. The living quarters were very tight. The people had to be small because the beds were short.


This is living room, kitched and parents bedroom. The parents slept in the back where you can see blue covers
Another ”bedroom”
Inside workings of windmill


The miller would farm when the wind wasn’t blowing to help supplement his income. Responsibility for the windmill would pass down generations, so sons would become millers. It sounded like there are still millers than live in windmills, which is surprising in this day. However, there was a miller, in wooden shoes, at the mill we visited and our guide described him as the miller of the day, but his mill was about 15 miles away. 

Our last night onboard…here is our menu for dinner tonight.


Bitterballen
Sea bass


July 11, 2022 (Monday): We are in Cologne, Germany and we are doing a walking tour. The big point of interest is the Cathedral.

Cologne Cathedral

 It was started in 1248, and not completed until 1880. There was a period of time in there, over 250 years, that no work was done. The people of Cologne assumed it would never be completed. Then the people of Cologne got an infusion of money from Prussia to complete the Cathedral, with one stipulation. Prussia required Cologne to build the railway station next to the cathedral so when people were coming to Cologne on the train, the first thing they would see was the cathedral that Prussia financed. All of Cologne was pretty much destroyed in WWII, but the cathedral only received a small amount of damage. Photo of a photo of the devastation around the cathedral. 

The Cathedral we see today is not completely original as it is continuously being repaired, and portions replaced. The oldest window are in back of the choir. 

There is also a large gold reliquary in back of the choir that supposedly holds the bones of the 3 wise men. According to our guide, this treasure was confiscated from Istanbul by Milan, and then confiscated from Milan by Frederick Barbarossa in 1164. He said there is no way to prove that it is really the 3 wise men, but the contents have been tested and the contents are old  enough that it is possible. 

One of the stained glass windows in the cathedral is very modern. It looks like pieces of confetti. The artist of the window is very famous and books have been written about this window. Supposedly the colors and patterns represent verses and stories in the Bible. Our guide said he attended a 2 hour presentation on the meaning of the window. It is not a good photo because of the lighting.

Outside the cathedral is a replica of the finials on top of the two towers. They are about 31 feet high and 15 feet wide.


Pigeons taking a bath in the plaza in front of the Cathedral

After visiting the Cathedral, the guide pointed out the “Rathaus”, which is city hall. We have heard this joke from other German guides, that English speakers think this says Rat House, which is where all the politicians are. 

For some weird reason which I did not catch, under the clock on city hall is a face of a bearded man. On the hour, he sticks out this tongue tor each hour. Across the plaza from city hall, high up on the wall, is a plaster caste of the “moon”. Supposedly he is mooning the politicians in  city hall. 

The guide took us past a museum housing Roman artifacts, as the city was originally founded by the Romans. The Romans were here almost 2000 years ago, in 50AD. The city is already planning a big celebration in 2050. All state funded museums are closed on Monday, so we could no go in. But through the window we could see a fabulous mosaic floor, that was only missing a few detains. Because of the reflection in the window, this is the best photo I got.Our guide said at one of the G8 meetings they put a large glass over the mosaic and served the heads of state dinner. Bill Clinton, Tony Blair, and Boris Yeltsin were three that attended the dinner.

After our walk, we returned to the ship for lunch, and walked some more. We walked back to  the Cathedral area and checked out a store selling 4711 cologne. Dave did not like the scent, I think it was too “spicy” for him, so I did not buy any cologne. We walked back towards the ship and stopped for a kolsch beer at a recommend place. The glasses are narrow and not very tall. This is so there is not so much beer in your glass that you finish it while it’s still cold. 


Then we walked past the boat to the Chocolate Museum. This museum was open because it is ran by a company, Lindt Chocolates. We had no intention of going through the museum, but there is a store attached. We wandered the whole store and found some interesting items, including chocolate beer! Dave decided he’d rather have peanut M&M’s, so we did not buy any chocolate. Back on the boat we decided to have a beverage and sit at tables on the bow. I was drinking a dark beer and Dave was drinking wine. At one point I reached for my glass without seeing a bee was on the glass…and I got stung ☹️.

After dinner we sat on the top deck to watch our departure from Cologne. While it was getting dark, we watched and heard hundreds of green parakeets fly into the trees next to our boat. They were loud! Not a good picture because of it being dusk.

It was especially pretty because we had a full moon.

Great Saint Martin church built on the remnants of a Roman chapel, on what was then an island in the Rhine. The soaring tower was erected between 1150-1250. We were unable to get in, as I think it is also a museum, which is closed on Monday.  


The Cathedral at night, as we were leaving Cologne:

July 10, 2022 (Sunday): We have a more relaxed morning today. We left the dock about 8:30AM and we are cruising the Rhine River. Over 66 km, we pass 20 castles. Most of the castles today are museums, hotels, restaurants or all three. We were traveling south to north, so the first castles we saw were at the bottom.

We did not take pictures of all the castles, but some we thought were interesting. 

Ehrenfels Castle
Mouse Tower

 

Reichenstein Castle
Chapel for Reichenstein Castle

Pfalzgrafenstein Castle
Lorelei rock
Statue of Lorelei
Marksburg Castle

In the afternoon, we had a walking tour of Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. It overlooks the Deutches Eck where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers meet. We took a gondola across the river to get to the fortress. Ehrenbreitstein is Europes largest fortress.  

We had a great guide, who we found out at the end of the tour is an actor from England. 

However, he knew his history and was very well versed on the fortress. But he made a very boring subject interesting. The hill upon which it rests was settled as far back as the 4th century BC, and a Roman fortification was there around 400-500AD. Construction on the current fortifications began around 1100 and expanded in the 16th century. In @801, Ehrenbreitstein was partially destroyed by Napoleon, and the French occupied Koblenz for the next 18 years. The fort has been under French and British flags, and the American flag for two  different periods. If my memory serves me right, for a short time after WWI and then after WWII.

After returning to “our” side of the river on the gondola, we walked along the river for a bit, but because it was Sunday, almost everything was closed. So we walked the other way towards the Deutsches Eck which is the “German Corner”. This is where the river splits with the Moselle and Rhine. There is a monumental equestrian statue in a park. The statue is Wilhelm I, first German Emperor, erected in 1897 in appreciation of his role in the unification of Germany. 

Wilhelm I

we also were able to get pictures of our boat whike we were on the gondola. it is very long, but narrow. It is about 442 feet long and about 38 feet wide.


July 9, 2022 (Saturday):  This morning we are in Speyer, Germany. We have a walking tour. After we leave the boat, the boat is going to move to Worms, Germany, and we will rejoin the boat in Worms.

As many towns along the Rhine River, they were first established by the Romans. Our guide indicated the Romans were in Speyer 2000 years ago. In the 11th century, Emperor Konrad II was made emperor over all the German states. Emperor Conrad started building of the Imperial Cathedral of Speyer in 1030. In 1061, the Cathedral was consecrated. It was meant to impress not only with its size, but it’s pomp and majesty as well. 


On the back of the Cathedral, the most eastern point is a carving. The Christians of the day believed Jesus would come from the east. This carving is of children riding on lions and sticking their hand into the mouth of a poisonous snake. According to the Bible, the children could do this and be unharmed in Paradise.  

The Cathedral is on the east side of Speyer, because the east was where Jesus would come from. Inside it is enormous, but pretty plain. There are 12 columns representing the 12 months of the year, and 6 domes in the ceiling representing Monday through Saturday. The seventh dome is above the Nave and represents Sunday. In 1981, the Cathedral was added to the UNESCO list of “World Cultural Heritage”.

The Cathedral has been saved from disasters as it was not bombed during WWII. Speyer is the home of the Airbus factory and in WWII it was building airplanes. The airplane factory was the target of the bombing, so the Cathedral was spared. A large crypt lies beneath the chancel and is the final resting place of four emperors, four kings and three empresses. 

Some of the buildings outside the Cathedral have been destroyed, such as the cloisters. A statue which was originally in the center of the cloisters is still standing. The statue is of Jesus praying at the Mount of Olives. 

Speyer was an important center for Ashkenazic Jews. In 1084, Speyer’s Bishop invited Jews to settle in Speyer from nearby towns. It was a business development move since moneylending was forbidden for Christians and the city needed on for the new cathedral it was building. In return, the bishop offered rights and protections that until then were unprecedented in Europe.

In front of the Cathedral is a huge bowl. When a new bishop comes to Speyer, he is escorted to near the front of the Cathedral where the huge bowl is sitting. Each new bishop has to fill the bowl with wine. The tradition continues even today. The townspeople stand around and everyone gets a small glass of the wine. The bowl holds 1500 liters of wine! 

Another tidbit from our guide, during the Middle Ages, only people who lived in cities were free. One of the reasons towns such as Speyer were walled, was not only for defense, but to control the people trying to enter the city to become free. You had to live in the city for 1 year and 1 day to be a citizen of the city and considered free.

The Main Street is directly in front of the Cathedral, and a city gate is at the west entrance to  the city.

A portion of the east gate and wall is still standing behind the Cathedral.

Walking down the Main Street is what I have previously referred to as a Maypole in Munich. This pole actually has signs on it indication the services, provided by hand, of the residents in the city. 

The old part of town is not a large, but it seems like we never quite have enough time to explore as much as I would like to. Other people me met were able to get into the Lutheran church which has beautiful stained glass windows inside, but it was not open when we went by, so we missed seeing the Lutheran Church.

We did manage to get a couple gelatos….

Our group met at the big bowl in front of the Cathedral when our 1 hour of free time was up, and we walked a good distance to our buses, which then drove us to Worms, Germany where we met up with our boat. 

We got to see the airplane factory, who announced their presence this way: 

This afternoon, while the boat moved from Worms to Rudesheim on the Rhine was basically free time, which was great! 

At 6:15pm we are departing for our dinner in Rudesheim. We were transported to the restaurant in a little tram. We were able to get a table for 9, which was a group of us that were in the “blue group” on our pre-cruise extension. 

Left to right, Dave, Weldon, BZ, Cecelia, me, Dave, Carol, Art and Karen

This was when we were in Oberammergau and Innsbruck. So most of the people in the blue group ended up in basement cabins on the ship including us. We booked late, and there were only 2 staterooms available, both in the basement, or cheap seats. However, there were 3 people in the blue group that had balcony cabins. When we all discovered we were being treated as 2nd class citizens, we hung together as the blue group. So, 9 people from the blue group went to this dinner, and 2 of the couples were celebrating their anniversary. It was a really cute restaurant, and it was located on one of the oldest streets in Rudesheim. Rudesheim  seems to be a big partying town, and we were there on a a Saturday night, which made the atmosphere even more party like. There was a one person musician band, and he was playing a lot of American music such as Sweet Caroline and West Virginia. Of course our group was singing right along with those songs. We had 3 bottles of wine on the table: a white, a rose, and a red. For the first round, most took the white so they brought a second bottle of white. We were all drinking pretty freely, singing along, and having a good time. On the table when we sat down was bread, and a spread of some sort, which nobody seemed to care for.  We later found out it was lard and not butter. The first course of the meal was two slices of a sausage that tasted a lot like halogenated, a salad, and another spread, which tasted much better than the lard. The next course was potato’s soup. It was very tasty with a couple of vegetables and maybe some bacon lardons. The third course was a couple of slices of pork, mashed potatoes and a cabbage medley. After dinner we got a shot of some type of schnapps. Then, the dessert was a cheesecake. The captain showed up and was dancing with our cruise director. They honored one lady who was celebrating her birthday and two couples celebrating their anniversary. Everyone was clapping to the music and having a good time. 

Left to right Restaurant owner?, Carol, Art (celebrating their anniversary), BZ, Weldon ( celebrating their anniversary), our cruise director, our captain

As I was walking out, an Asian guy grabbed my arm and asked where we were from. So  everyone knew we were having a good time. I was caught off guard by the Asian guy, and just  said Florida! 

Our restaurant

Rudesheim looks to be a fun town, and the fact it was Saturday night didn’t hurt!

Little street in Rudesheim.

We had our choice of walking back to the boat or taking the little train back. Dave and I opted to walk, and it wasn’t very far. It gave us a chance to walk along the water, and the train tracks! Two trains came by as we walked back. 

July 8, 2022 ((Friday): The boat is docked in Kiel, Germany, but we will be crossing the river to visit Strasbourg, France. We will be back and visit Strasbourg again in December, on our Christmas markets cruise.  We have an included tour this morning. First we ride on the bus and our guide points out a lot of buildings, most of which aI can’t remember. I do remember that one of the buildings is a consortium of European nations, and another building is the consortium of European Union countries. The guide tells us that this part of France, and Moselle, has been German and then France several times. The children learn the Alsace dialect as toddlers, but when they start school, Hal’s the lessons are in French and half are in German. Once they start middle school, they start learning English. I think it is pathetic that Americans do not learn more languages starting in the primary grades. 

So first we had a bus tour, and then we did a walking tour with our guide. We ended at the Strasbourg Norte Dame Cathedral. The Norte Dame Cathedral has an astronomical lock. Which is very interesting. However, it is not the original. It has been reworked, but still based on the original. 

Notre Dame Cathedral in Strasbourg
Astronomical Clock
Stained glass window showing different scenes reflecting the passion of Christ
Rose window

After we left the Cathedral, we were on our own, with prearranged shuttles back to our boat. It was about 11:30am, and we have a map with sights of interest. We have already seen Norte Dame, so the next on the sights is Madison Kammerzell. It is one of the most famous buildings in Strasbourg, one of the most ornate, and well preserved medieval buildings. It was built in 1427 but renovated in 1467 and 1589. It is no longer a private dwelling, but now houses a restaurant.

We were hungry, and we thought by walking through the market we might find a place to eat. Besides, I just love the European markets. 

No luck finding a restaurant close to the market, so we started looking for a restaurant. In my mind, I wanted a French restaurant but we kept finding Chinese, Italian, Lebanese, etc. I did not want to sit outside  because that’s where all the smokers are. We finally decided on Europe Cafe. Not the cutest, but we were hungry and they had French entrees. I had Quiche Lorraine and Dave had Chicken Cordon Bleu. Of course we had wine with our meal. 

Quiche Lorraine
Cordon Bleu

After lunch, we had a couple more spots on our list of sights to see. We walked to the covered bridge. It’s interesting, because our guide pointed this out as a dam. When we got there, we discovered the dam was a little bit down the river. This may have been a dam at some point, but now it is a covered Brugge, with bathrooms! We were able to walk to the top of the bridge and get a nice view of what the locals call “Little France”. At some point, there was a hospital built in this area because many people were getting sick with what was called the “French  Disease”. Subsequently it was called Syphilis. 

We climbed to the top and had a nice view of “Little France”.

Tanning and tanneries became an important part of the Little France area. They built their homes alongside the river to have easy access to the water they needed. The tanners house had an open gallery under the roof, which was used for drying hides.

The covered bridge was part of the cities defense system from the 13th to the 17th centuries. Three of the brick built towers have survived.  

Next we walked to St. Nicholas Church. It was closed, so we could not go in. Standing on a Roman site, the church was built on the location of a chapel dedicated to Marie-Madeline in the 12th century.The church was rebuilt in 1381 and 1387 and dedicated to St. Nicholas, Parton Saint of sailors. Before he left. For Lambarene in the Gabon, the doctor and future Nobel Prize winner Albert Schweitzer was minister here.

From gardens were locked up in a cage on the bridge where they were mocked by passers-by before being thrown into the water.We had to be back to the meeting spot, so the last site on our list was the “Bridge of Tortures”.in 1411 a law was introduced instructing those sentenced to death to be sewn up in a linen sack and thrown into the water.This custom continued until 1617. From 1466 onwards, thieves and people stealing  from gardens were locked up in a cage and passers-by would mock them. Then they were thrown into the river and forced to swim to safety. 

Late this afternoon we had a cooking demonstration onboard. Then after dinner we had a music trivia contest the team we were on came in 3rd! That is tremendous for us as we are usually last. 

July 7, 2022 (Thursday): The boat is docked in Breisach, Germany. We will be back here in December on our Christmas market cruise. This morning we have an included excursion into the Black Forest. We have a really good guide, he is from Toronto, Canada. We have an hour drive from the boat to the Black Forest, so our guide tells us all kinds of interesting tidbits on the long drive. One thing he tells us is the farmers have hired professional hunters to kill wild boars. But the hunters will not eat the wild boars they kill because the wild boars are radioactive. Apparently, when Chernobyl exploded, some of the dust blew over this area. The mushrooms that grow here absorb the radioactive dust, and the wild boars love mushrooms. Thus the boars get radioactive from the mushrooms they eat. Many of the old farms in this area are built so the farm equipment can be driven directly into the top level, and then the farm families live below. In olden times, the roofs were made of sod, which drew various vermin. Smoke from the residences helped eliminate the vermin, but the smoke unbeknownst to the residents, killed the residents at early ages. These roofs were also prone to catch fire.

Example of very old house with sod roof

We drove to Hofgut Sternen, which is a village in the Black Forest. It is thought that this area is more than 700 years old. Marie Antoinette paused through here on the way to her wedding to French King Louis XVI. Hofgut meant it was self sufficient. We took a walk with one of the guides into the forested area. One thing we passed was a bridge, which was strategic in WWII.  The allies kept trying to destroy the bridge, but they weren’t successful. But before the Germans surrendered, they destroyed the bridge. It has been rebuilt and trains cross the bridge daily.

Bridge with train crossing

While walking we passes some interesting forested areas. We crossed bridges over streams and the scenery was beautiful.


Back in the area of the settlement, someone was blowing glass, however he was working on heating the glass when we were there. We did not wait for him to actually blow the glass. We saw a demonstration on making a Black Forest cake. This is a little false, because all the pieces of the cake was already made, and the demonstrator just assembled the pieces. Apparently, there is a considerable amount of cherry schnapps in the original recipe. 

It takes a lot of whipped cream!
Finished product!

We skipped the cuckoo clock demonstration, but this location has what is suppose to be the biggest cuckoo clock in the world. One of the buildings had a 6 Sided star on a sign. Our guide said said 4 sided star meant food was available. A six sided star meant food and a bed were available. An eight sided star meant food, beds and stable space for horses was available. 

After visiting the Black Forest, we were bused back to the ship for lunch. After lunch, Dave and I signed up for a walking tour of medieval Colmar. Colmar is a cute and picturesque village with half-timbered houses, flowers and little streams running through the village. We saw a replica of the Statue of Liberty and discovered the designer of the Statue of Liberty, Augusta Bartholdi, came from Colmar. I assume the draping is suppose to show support for Ukraine, but the color of the draping is not quite right.

The inside of the Statue of Liberty was designed by Eiffel, but Augusta Bartholdi designed the  statue. We saw Bartholdi’s house, and other statues he designed. 

In the old times, houses were taxed on the size of the ground floor. People would design their houses in a step fashion so the upper floors would be larger than the ground floor, thus reducing their taxes. 

Note how upper floors stick out over ground floor


The smallest house in Colmar, about 100 square feet, and they paid no taxes. The house has now been incorporated into neighboring buildings. 

This building, built in 1609, is called the house of heads because there 105 grotesque heads decorating the facade. 

The Pfister house was built in 1537 by a wealthy man who earned his fortune in silver mines.

Colmar has gondolas like Venice, but I think they are mostly a tourist attraction. They also have motors, where the Venice gondolas do not. 

Our guide pointed out signs on the building that would describe what trade was in the building. This one was a beer mug inside a star. According to our guide, the Star of David hysteria we think of as the Jewish symbol was not limited to use by Jews in antiquity. The Jewish community of Prague was the first to use the Star of David as its official symbol, probably in the 17th century. The star was almost universally adopted by Jews in the 19th century. 

Note beer inside six pointed star

 Another sample of a sign indicating a butcher shop.

Storks are a symbol of the Rhine River area, and the storks have a huge nest on top of the  cathedral. Storks are monogamous and return to the same nest for years. Their offspring will also return to the same nest, so the nests can become very big and very heavy, but they are protected by the government.  

This cathedral was under construction, too, and archeologists were working around the outside as they founds bones during renovation work.

July 6, 2022 (Wednesday): Today was mostly about travel from Innsbruck to Basel, Switzerland to join the Viking Sigrun, our river cruise. Dave snapped a shot of the mountains from our stateroom before we left, as the clouds from yesterday have pretty much disappeared to give us a nice view.

We have a new bus driver, who hopefully will not get lost, and we have lost two people! We do not know the details of the people that have left. We drive towards Basel, and see interesting villages along the way.

Cute village in valley, with two churches

We made a pit stop, and then we stopped in Vaduz, Lichtenstein for lunch. This was a bonus for me because Lichtenstein is the 4th smallest country in Europe after Monaco, the Vatican and San Marino (in Italy). It is also the 6th smallest country in the world. I never imagined that I would visit Lichtenstein, so I was excited to hear we would stop at its capital for lunch. We only had 1 hour and 45 minutes, so we could not spend much time there. However, it is a very small country. We had lunch at the Hotel Adler. They had a great outdoor area, but because we did not have reservations, we had to eat inside. Dave had wine of course, and I had Lichtenstein beer!   

Hotel Adler, where we had lunch
Waiting for our sandwiches

We both had sandwiches, which I forgot to take pictures of. After lunch, we walked around a little – of course I wish we had about an hour more time, but it was a small town.

Building with our location!
Lichtenstein is a Principality, and this is the palace
Government Building

Before we left, we had some gelato! On the bus, just after leaving Lichtenstein, we saw this covered bridge, which I think is crossing the Rhine River.

Covered bridge


We got to Basel about 4:30 and shortly there after our boat left the dock. We do not have a great stateroom, we are in the basement! Thus, in many ways, we are treated as 3rd class, which explains some of our bus issues and hotel issues. We had a long indoctrination discussion on board. We had a muster drill where we had to put our life preservers on and meet at a central location on the ship. Then we had dinner. One of the anytime entrees is an 8oz rib eye, which I thought was pretty impressive. Tonight we had goat cheese soufflé for an appetizer. I had a pork and dumpling entree and Dave had Halibut. I had a fruit plate for desert and Dave had wine for desert. We ate with people we met on the bus. They got stuck on our 3rd class blue group bus, even though they have better staterooms on the boat.


July 5, 2022 (Tuesday): We are staying at the Penz West hotel for 2 nights, which is about 2 miles from the Innsbruck old town. 

The name Innsbruck comes from “Inn” which is the river that runs through the town, and “Bruck” which is derived from bridge. So it was the bridge over the Inn River. It was originally settled by the Romans before the 4th century. In the 4th or 5th century there was a church and in 1138, a monastery was referred to in historical documents. In 1187, an official document names the place “Innsprucke”. 

After breakfast the Viking bus drove us towards the old town to meet up with our guide, Willie, for a walking tour. We walked through the Imperial Gardens which have existed since the early 15th century, but at that time, only royals and members of the high court were allowed in. We walked past St. Jakob Cathedral, but due to renovations, we were not allowed to go in. This cathedral holds the tomb of Maximilian III, Archduke of Austria from 1612 until his death in 1618. The front was fenced off, and behind the fence were archeologists working, as during the renovation, tombs were found in front of the church. 

Our guide pointed out the town tower, dated around 1444. The bottom of the tower looks different than the top because the top toppled during an earthquake and was rebuilt.

Town Tower

The Golden Roof is a very famous landmark in Innsbruck. The building where the golden roof is located, was constructed in the early 1400’s to be a residence for the rulers of Tyrol, one of the states of Austria. A later ruler, Maximilian I, commissioned a loggia of the facade of the building, with a roof of 2,657 fire-gilded copper tiles. The upper balcony served as a royal box where the emporer and his wife could enjoy festivals and tournaments in the square below. Our guide said 6 pounds of gold leaf had been applied to the copper tiles. 

The Imperial Palace was a residential compound of the Habsburg. The palace was initially constructed in 1460 and had a moat in front. Empress Maria Theresa, the only female ruler of Austria, made Baroque changes to the palace and filled in the moat. The moat is now a paved road. The palace is open in the center, and the front was the administrative building and the back was apartments for bureaucrats. In the center they hold regular concerts now.

The main shopping street in Innsbruck is Maria-Theresa Street,  named after Empress Maria Theresa. It is a pedestrian street. All of the old town of Innsbruck is pedestrian only. Delivery vehicles are allowed until 10:30am, but after that, no vehicles are allowed. On Maria-Theresa Street is St. Anne’s column, erected in 1706 to commemorate the defeat of Bavarian invaders in 1703. The Virgin Mary is on the top of the column, and St. Anne is one of the saints represented at the bottom. 

Innsbruck used to be a very religious place and many of the buildings have religious paintings on them.  


This is St. Christopher protecting Jesus while crossing a river

 Another building that our guide pointed out was “The wedding cake building” because of the decorated exterior.

Our guide was full of information and historical details, and he was very interesting. 

After our walk, we went into the Swarovski store, which the guide said was the biggest Swarovski store in the world. Viking did offer an optional tour to the Swarovski factory, but wdecided not to go. However, I took a (quite a ) few pictures in the Swarovski store.   

Christmas Stars
Birds!
Movie characters
This was so cool in the lights I had to take a close up (note: 8,000€)
Animals!
Close up of Elephants
Close up of zebras
Costume, but I don’t know the movie
cool chandelier

Another tour was the Nordkette cable car that goes to the top of the Nordkette mountain range. We did not sign up for the Viking tour, as I thought we’d wait until we got to Innsbruck and decide then if we wanted to go up on our own. On own own, it costs almost $50 per person.  We did not go up, because the mountain had a thick cloud cover, and we would not have been able to see much. We had some rain as well, and we’d duck into stores when we wanted to get out of the rain.

We did go to Cafe Sacher for “lunch”. This is the original Sacher-Torte only available in Sacher Cafes in Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck and Graz. I had the Sacher Torte with whipped cream, coffee, and sparkling water. Dave had Apple Strudel with Vanilla ice cream and a glass of wine. He was also served a glass of water. I thought the torte was dry, and Dave was not impressed   with the strudel, but he said the ice cream was good. 

Sacher Torte with coffee, whipped cream and water
Apple strudel and red wine

At that point, we had pretty much walked all over the old town, but we visited a few more shops. I saw a sign for “Cafe 360” which billed itself as a wine bar and convinced Dave to check it out. It was on the top of an 8 story building and was a round glass structure. We got glasses of wine and enjoyed the views over the city. We actually had a great view of the ski jump used in the Olympics. It was a nice little break, but I didn’t like my glass of wine ☹️. 

Wine at Cafe 360 degrees
Olympic ski jump

We walked back to the shuttle bus stop. Viking was suppose to have a shuttle bus at 2:30 to take us back to the hotel, but apparently the driver got lost (same driver that missed the turn to Oberammergau) and did not pick us up until after 3:00. 

We have decided to rest at our hotel the rest of the evening and eat dinner here. The old town of Innsbruck is charming and interesting, but we feel like we’ve seen what we want to see.

We had dinner in the hotel restaurant. Dave liked his red beef curry so much that we both had that for dinner tonight.

Red Beef Curry with rice


July 4, 2022 (Monday): This morning we left our hotel in Garmisch-partenkirchen, Germany. At breakfast they had a really neat wine station:

I think Dave should put one of these in our house. We met in the lobby at the appointed time, and drove back almost to Oberammergau to the Ettal Abbey. We waited for other Viking groups to arrive, probably an hour. Then we have this huge group of probably 100 people on the tour. We are taken into the Abbey church by an official abbey guide. He comments this is the largest group he’s had. His sound system sucks with lots of reverberation so it is very hard to understand what he is saying. It is a Benedictine Abbey with about 50 monks. The abbey was founded in 1330 by Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian, which is NOT the same Ludwig that built the fairytale castles. In fulfillment of a vow on his return from his coronation in Rome, his horse genuflected three times on the site of the original church building. A marble statuette of the Madonna and child is in the church on that spot. The statuette was brought from Pisa as a gift for the church. The church is dedicated to the “Assumption of the Blessed Virgin”. While the church has been damaged and rebuilt over the years, it is really beautiful inside. There are paintings on the walls and on the ceiling. It is divided into two sections with the larger part for church services, and the smaller part for the monks to fit, which is closer to the Madonna statue.

Church from outside
Larger part of church looking through the archway to where the monks sit
Ceiling painting
Ludwig’s horse that genuflexed
Madonna brought from Pisa

This tour took maybe 45 minutes, even with the large group of people. After our tour, we had to wait again, but I’m not sure what we were waiting for. Finally we left, driving through the Ammergau Alps to the hamlet of Mittenwald.

Mountains!

Mittenwald is famous for making violins and there is a museum there. Our guide explained how to get to the museum to do the tour, however, we only had about an hour, maybe an hour and 15 minutes to eat lunch on our own, which meant finding a place. Yes, I’m a little perturbed because I feel a lot of time was wasted at the abbey waiting before and after the tour. If there was more time in Mittenwald, maybe we could have walked around and explored more. We would not be interested in the violin museum tour, but others may have been. We did have a nice lunch, sitting with two other people, Karen and Terry, on our bus. We had pizzas, beer and wine. I wanted to get a gelato, but Dave spotted a store where he could buy a bottle of wine, and we only had about 10 minutes before we were suppose to be back at the bus. Of course, the wine purchase won.

Lunch in Mittenwald


Pretty flowers near restaurant where we had lunch

Leaving Mittenwald, we drove to Innsbruck. Unfortunately our hotel is about 2 miles from the city center. However, it is a very nice hotel. We arrived about 3:00 and had plans to somehow go into Innsbruck, but after our long day yesterday, and 6 hours of sleep, once we sat down in our room, we were going anywhere. Later, we ate at the hotel, Penz West. I had wiener smitzel with parsley potatoes and salad, Dave had Red Beef curry Thai with rice. Both were delicious. We crashed early, hoping for a better day tomorrow.

View from our hotel in Innsbruck

July 3, 2022 (Sunday):  A long day today. We drove from Munich to Oberammergau, with our bus driver missing his turn to Oberammergau, giving us a bit of delay. Oberammergau is a picturesque Bavarian town. The houses are timbered and some have Lüftlmalerei, which are murals painted on the outside walls. While this style of art can be found in Southern Germany and Austria, it probably started in Oberammergau in the 1700’s.


House with intricate wood carving that I thought was interesting

We have a lunch before the performance, and about an hour spare time after lunch before getting in line for the performance. No pictures, but this was our menu and we had the pork.

We had the pork



You are not allowed to take much into the theater. One bottle of water, and a small backpack. We had to go through security, with the men and women in separate lines. They checked my backpack and did a body search over my clothes.

On theater building
Above entrance
Cross high on hill as seen from theater


Of course no photos are allowed during the performance, but Dave got a picture of the stage before the play began.

The stage is not covered, but the seating area is. The huge theater, seating 4200 people, was built in 1900. Our tickets cost 201€ each. Since we are on a tour with Viking, everything for Oberammergau is arranged – food, hotels, transportation, tickets, etc. We only need to buy personal items. In 2022, performances take place 5 days a week, from May until early October. The performance is the Passion of Christ, but between scenes, the choir sings and there are tableaus of scenes from the Bible, such as Adam and Eve with the apple tree in the background, Daniel in the Lions den, etc. The play is totally in German, but we were given books with the translation. It is not easy to follow along, but we did follow it pretty well. Even the songs from the choir were translated for us. The performance is 5 hours long, but broken into two parts of 2.5 hours, starting at 2:30. So we had a 3 hour intermission at 5:00 and went to dinner. Viking put on a nice dinner – we had a choice of Salmon or beef, and bottles of red and white wine. Again, I forgot to take a picture. The second half started at 8:00 finished a little after 10:30, so we were very tired. There are over 170 Viking passengers, split into 6 groups, with each group at a different hotel. We got to our hotel about midnight, and we stayed in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany for the night.

The bubonic plague devastated Bavaria during the Thirty Years War (1618 – 1648). Half of Oberammergau’s population would die. In 1633, the villagers vowed that if God spared them from the plague, they would perform a play every 10 years depicting the life and death of Jesus. After that vow, none of the villagers died of the plague, and with few exceptions, such as coronavirus, the play had been presented every 10 years. Over the years, many dignitaries have attended, such as Dwight Eisenhower, Pope Pius XI before he became pope, Pope Benedict XVI before he became pope, Rockefeller, Vanderbilts, Kings, etc. 

In 1990, three women from Oberammergau won a court case that enabled married women and unmarried women over 35 years of age to perform in the play. In 2000, rights governing participation in the play were changed, allowing those living in Oberammergau who were not Christian or German citizens could participate. This meant that Muslims could participate. In 2000, 1600 adults and 550 children performed in 110 performances with 520,000 spectators.

I love the window boxes with flowers, and they are all over the place.

July 2, 2022 (Saturday):  Not much action today. We got everything packed up from our hotel near the center and took a taxi to our Viking hotel, Munich Garden Hilton. We were able to check in right away, and met with the Viking tour directors. Our director is Maria. We dropped off our stuff in the room and headed our to find lunch. We found a cute outside restaurant, Leib & Steele. 

The menu was not extensive, but the Scandinavian breakfast was calling my name. Scrambled eggs with shrimp, smoked salmon with horseradish crème sauce, yogurt with fruit, and fresh breads, which were delicious. Dave had sausages with sauerkraut, and some of the bread. 

I keep forgetting to take a picture BEFORE I take a bite ☹️
Dave had taken a few bites, too.

After lunch we had a couple of things we wanted to find – Diet Coke for Dave and a new lock for my suitcase as the one I had broke. We found the Diet Coke pretty quick, but the luggage lock was more difficult. We ended up walking back to Marianplaz, which is about 2 miles from our new hotel, and found a great store, Globetrotters. The problem was figuring out how to get in. I swear, we walked up a flight of stairs and around the outside of the whole store, before we finally found an entrance. This store was all about camping and traveling, so they had luggage locks. We had to get back to our hotel for our meeting with our Viking tour director by 5:00, and it was already 3:30. Walking back, Dave got a picture of the trolleys used in Munich. 

But, we got back in plenty of time, spent a few minutes recovering and then went to the Viking meeting. We cannot take anything into the theater at Oberammergau e crept a bottle of water. People with mobility devices were warned the only thing they could take into the theater was a collapsable cane. Pretty tough for those needing a Walker or wheelchair. There are very strict entry requirements. We will have a very long day tomorrow. After the meeting, we decided we wanted pizza for dinner, and I googled a place, Taverna Del Sud. When we got there, they said no pizza. We checked the menu and decided we’d have pasta. So we sat down and I ordered lasagna. No lasagna. I ended up with spaghetti with meat sauce. Dave got rigatoni pasta with ham and peas in cream sauce (he asked them to hold the mushrooms, which they did). Our waiter was very friendly and kidded with us and a couple sitting next to us, Oneida and Mike. It happens they are on the same tour we are (174 people I think they said). I forgot to take pictures of our food.   But remembered to get a picture of the wine!


We are broken down into groups and our group is blue with 20 people. There are about 6 groups and each group is in a different hotel, determined by your color. We will probably end up in the dumpiest ☹️.

July 1, 2022 (Friday): We get home two weeks from today…but looking forward to our River cruise and the Passion play. We join our Viking tour tomorrow.  Today it was rainy and cool. We did not get moving early, but put the “please clean” note on our door at 10:30am and went to the lobby to read for awhile. We returned at 11:30am, and room hadn’t been cleaned, so we went back down to the lobby until noon. When we returned, room still hadn’t been cleaned. There was a cart near our door and Dave asked why our room hadn’t been cleaned. The guy (men clean the rooms) said it wasn’t in his area and to call housekeeping. We called, and they came pretty quick, but we obviously wasted almost 2 hours. I don’t think it really mattered though because we didn’t plan on doing much with the rain and cold. After the room was cleaned, we got ready to face the weather. Our plan is to walk to the Hofbrauhaus for lunch, which is what we did. That place is always crazy busy. It was 5 years ago, and it still is. We got .5 liters of beer with our lunch as it is a beer garden! We both ordered veal sausages with homemade mustard sauce. For side dishes, I ordered bread dumplings and Dave ordered potato salad.

Dave likes lager and I like dark beer
I took one bite of my sausage before taking the picture ☹️ and I did take a picture of Dave’s potato salad
Girl selling pretzels
Reminds me of the Clydesdales
Locked up beer steins that belong to the regulars. some of the locks were really old style!
Page 1 of the menu
Page 2 of the menu
Back page of menu

I decided to include pictures of the menu. I thought the dumplings I had yesterday was potato dumplings which is why I ordered bread dumplings today. I am not crazy about either of the dumplings I had yesterday or today. They seem gelatinous. The gravy they serve with them is very good though.

After eating, we walked through the Hofbrauhaus gift shop. They had a really cute post card to send to kids, so we bought two for Mia and Lily. When we bought them, we asked about postage, and the clerk sent us a couple blocks away. We went there, but it was just mailboxes, they did not sell postage. Fortunately there was a person there, and he gave us the address of a place where we could buy postage. It may have been a mile away, but what else were we going to do on a rainy day. As we were walking there, we remembered the area as it must be a Jewish quarter. I remember I dropped my iPad and broke the screen last time I was here. We find the place, and it’s like a DHL office, but they said they could sell us postage. I was just going to buy the postage and write the cards later, but I had to write the cards and address them before they would sell us postage. Also, they did not take credit cards – we had to pay cash! I think we paid 7.4€ to mail two postcards, and Dave has no confidence that Mia and Lily will ever receive them. That was our adventure of the day. I have never had so much trouble sending a post card!

On the way back to the hotel, we walked through the market and bought a little more cheese from the same store as yesterday. We figured if we bought a little more cheese and a bottle of wine, we’d have enough leftovers from yesterday to use for dinner tonight.

June 30, 2022 (Thursday):  We usually just have a breakfast bar each morning, but ran out of our supply before flying to Munich. So when we checked in, they told us there was a bakery downstairs. Downstairs is underneath the hotel, and is where you catch the subway. At each station, underground, there are all sorts of stores. Besides the bakery, which is kind of a coffee stand with fresh pastries, there’s an Aldi grocery, a “Hit” grocery, a Chinese restaurant, a jewelry store, a Subway sandwich shop, and a bunch more little stores. The Hit grocery is huge. Anyway, this morning we went down to the bakery and got a couple of pastries, coffee for me and Diet Coke for Dave. Then we headed out to walk around. We have no big sites that we want to see as we were here about 5 years ago and saw everything that we wanted to see. We thought about going to Dachau, but decided against it as it is just so depressing. We saw so much of the Jewish history when we were here 5 years ago. It is just too hard to stomach the atrocities. 

As we headed to the open air market, we passed an old wall of the city from the mid 1400’s. 

At the market, I told Dave I wished we had one of these close to us. He said, “We do. It’s called Publix”. It’s not the same, Dave. He even found a vendor that interested him. 

Dave checking out the wine 😁

Flowers in the market:

Flowers!
Cheese!

There are some statures, a May pole, and tons of vendors selling everything. Flowers, wine, cheese meats, etc.

We decided we’d wander and come back later for lunch. Actually, it was 11:45, so we walked to the Marienplatz which is where the Rathaus-Glockenspiel preforms daily at 11:00am, 12:00 noon, and 5:00pm. It was perfect that we were there at noon. We have seen it before, but it is always cool to see. It is the largest carillon in Germany. It has two floors. The top floor represents the marriage of Duke Wilhelmina to Renate von Lothringen, celebrated in February, 1568, on the occasion of which a knights tournament (a joust) took place on the Marienplatz. As the figures circulate, there is actually a representation of a knights tournament and one knight knocks back the other knight.

The second level is a coopers dance. The barrel makers are said to be the first to venture out into the streets after a severe plague epidemic and cheered up the populace with their dance.

After the upper layer plays, and the second layer plays, there is a golden bird above both levels that flaps his wings.

Lots of tourists fill the Marienplatz to watch the spectacle. Of course we have seen it before, but it is a highlight for any trip to Munich. The whole clock striking 12, the upper level, lower level and bird takes almost 15 minutes. We had an added attraction today – the Goodyear blimp passed in back of the tower while the performance was going on.

I bought a SIM card in London, and it is giving me sporadic coverage in Munich. What is really cool is I can use my translate app, take a picture of something in German, and my app translates it! It is really cool! 

Dave and I wander some more, but everything is familiar because of being here before. We did walk over to the Hofgarden which is next to the Munich Residenz Palace, the family palace of the kings of Bavaria. We had peeked into some stores on the way over but not in these – definitely some expensive shopping: Rolex watches, Prada, Louie Vuitton. By this time we were getting hungry, and we decided to go back to the market area. It is not always easy for us to find a place to eat. One place did not take credit cards, lots of places didn’t have a table in the shade, lots of the outdoor dining allows smoking which we don’t deal with. Plus, they have to have a menu with food we both like! Picky, picky, picky. We found a place, Zum Alten Market.

Dave had Weiner Schnitzel

and I had roast pork

We both had beers, and Dave said the beer tasted so good he might start drinking beer instead of wine. 😂😂😂. 


After lunch, we were stuffed, and decided to shop in the market for a dinner in our hotel room. We bought crackers, 3 kinds of cheese, salami and olives.

Cheese store

We walked back to the hotel and we needed some breakfast bars for the next couple of days. So we went down under the hotel to Aldi and Hit supermarkets and found a bottle of wine (!), some Pringles, potato chips (my downfall) and even some breakfast bars!

June29, 2022 (Wednesday):  We leave today for Munich. Everything is packed, but we figure there is no rush such our flight is not until 4:25pm and checkout is noon. We checked out about 11:45, used a trolley for our luggage and walked over to Terminal 4 to catch the tube to terminal 2. It was a bit of a wait for some reason – usually the tube trains runs every few minutes. Terminal 2 is a bit of a walk from the tube station, and when we go to enter, there are security people only allowing passengers inside. This is a change, as we have been in terminal 2 and terminal 5 a few times. All they are checking is for passports, so not sure how they can tell we are passengers or not. We show them our passports and they let us by. We find where we are suppose to check our bags, and it is a system we’ve never seen before. There are 4 stations, A through D, and your checkin information tells you what station to go to. We are assigned B. First you use a terminal to identify yourself and what flight your on. Then you enter how many bags you have and it prints out the luggage tags. Then you wait in line to get to one of about 15 people who weigh your luggage and send it down the conveyor belt. This is for many airlines, not just Lufthansa which is what we’re flying today. After getting rid of our big bags we head to security where you have to remove all your liquids and put them in a quart baggie, which is the same as in the US. All liquids are suppose to be under 100ml (3 oz in US). On all the flights I’ve been on for a number of years, I usually our my contact lens solutions in a separate bag, because they are somewhat exempted from everything you can stuff into one quart size bag. This time they required makeup to be in the bag, so Dave took my contact lens solution and put it in his bag. But, between the two of us, we had all our liquids in two quart size bags. Then we wait in another huge line to get our bags X-rayed and our quart bags of liquid examined. The baggie nazi inspector took my contact lens solution bottle and said it was too big (103ml instead of 100). She missed my fingernail polish remover which is 4 oz. Fortunately, I have more packed in our checked bags – assuming they reach Munich. So we go through security. I had nothing in my pockets, but I set off the sensors (my jewelry?), soI had to go through the puffer. But, they let me through. This whole process of checking bags and going through security took a little over 2 hours! We checked the menus on the restaurants and finally settled on sharing a Chicken and shrimp pad Thai. Dave said it was not picture worthy. It was just OK. Heathrow does not post gate information until about 15 minutes before boarding starts. So ours was supposed to be posted at 3:45, for 4:00 boarding. But…it wasn’t posted for a few minutes, and a little panic runs through me. Finally we get the gate and walk there. We are easily there by 4:00, but they aren’t boarding. They don’t start boarding until about 4:45, and out plane was suppose to leave at 4:25. We get on the plane, and it departs over an hour late. We got to Munich at 8:00PM, but that includes losing an hour. In England, it was 5 hours difference from Eastern Standard time and in Germany it is 6 hours difference. It is an hour ride (and 100€) from the airport to our hotel. We get to the hotel and check in. We are here for 3 nights. Our room was hot and by the time the technician came and fixed it, it was 10:00pm. We went to the restaurant and the kitchen was closed, but they would give us something simple. We had some pasta and wine. It was OK, but not great, and a bit expensive. We’ll have to check out some different local places. 

June 28, (Tuesday): We did not do much today except get our belongings organized for our trip to Munich. We did our online checkin, and I washed out a few items in the hotel sink. We walked to the Green Man Pub again for lunch and we both had Chicken and ham pies. These pies are much better than Swansons Chicken Pot pies. These have a better crust, and more filling.

Walking home we are in the path of jets landing at Heathrow and they fly right over us. After lunch we packed most of our stuff, threw away stuff we no longer needed, and we are ready to leave England after an unexpected 16 day visit. We ate dinner in the hotel cafe, but they were out of our favorite wines and our favorite flatbread. We got a bottle of rioja wine, which was pretty good, we split a hamburger, which is huge with two overcooked Pattie’s, and I got a side of creamed cabbage with bacon, because it is delicious! 

I just have to comment on how clean the subway stations, the buses and the trains are. There is no trash on the tracks! There’s no trash on the floors or inside the buses. Many of the public buses are the red, two story ones like you see on TV, and like the one we rode from Windsor to Heathrow with the loud, obnoxious children.


June 27, 2022 (Monday): Today will be our last planned adventure in England. Our day started really well. Originally we planned to take a 9:45am National Express bus to Winchester, but we got up and got dressed and we’re ready to head out by 8:00am. We have to walk over to terminal 4, take the tube to terminals 2,3 and change to a tube to terminal 5 to catch our bus. Sometimes the tubes run timely, other times there is a long wait. We thought if things went well, there was a chance we’d catch the 8:45am bus. We got to terminal 5, bought our tickets, boarded the 8:45am bus, which immediately left….at 8:42am! The bus left early! 

It was an uneventful ride and we got dropped off in a large parking area just outside of Winchester and found we had to take another local bus to the town center. The National Express driver said the bus into town was free, but it wasn’t. It was a short 15 or 20 minute ride, and we were dropped off right at the Anglo-Saxon King, Alfred the Great. His statue, was placed there in 1901 to celebrate one thousand years since Alfred died. He became king of England and made Winchester his capital in 871. He ruled Wessex until his death in 899. Alfred had successfully defended this area of England, Wessex, against attacks from the Vikings. At that time, whoever ruled Wessex inherited the title of King of England. 

We went to the visitor center and signed up for a 1.5 hour walking tour. Our guide was very knowledgeable, and she made the tour interesting. She was telling us lots of facts and figures about historical kings and historical battles, which I can’t remember. I do remember a few of the stories, however.  We started the walk in a beautifully landscaped garden with a view of the  Alfred the Great statue. 

On the way, I saw this little creature on the sidewalk…he actually was pretty good size! 

Big snail!


 We walked through the garden to a walkway with a huge wall on one side and an interesting garden on the other side.  

Peter Smithers garden

According to our guide, the walking path and the property on both sides belonged to Sir Peter Smithers. Some have suggested he was the inspiration for Ian Flemings “James Bond”. Our guide said he was quite the gardener and that gardeners have to be courageous. He had two trees, a magnolia from South Carolina and another tree native to Italy that adapted to the climate here, where you would not expect them to. This walkway led from the commercial part of the city to the religious part. According to our guide, many monks and religious people walked this path. During the two world wars, many American soldiers passed through Winchester and would have walked this path, too. At the end of the path was a tunnel, which was great because it had started to rain. We sheltered in the tunnel and our guide pointed out lots of centuries old graffiti on the walls.

She pointed out a house where Jane Austen spent a Christmas holiday (There is a lot of Jane Austen history in Winchester). The rain let up a little and when we exited the tunnel, we were on the backside of Winchester Cathedral. (This tour does not go into the Cathedral. Dave and I will do that on our own, later. )  She took us to her favorite tombstone, Thomas Thetcher, who died after drinking a small beer. According to our guide, the person who started Alcoholics Anonymous had seen this tombstone and was inspired to start AA in the USA. However, it was common to drink a small beer at the time of Thomas Thetcher because the water was polluted and the process of fermentation would make the resulting beverage safe to drink.

Our guide pointed out a pub, The Eclipse Inn, that was previously a rectory of St. Lawrence Church. In 1685, Lady Alice Lisle was found guilty of harboring two fugitives from the Monmouth Rebellion. The judge was a “hanging judge”, went into a rage and bullied the jury to return a guilty verdict. The punishment was to be burned at the stake, but the judge later relented and changed the punishment to beheading. Lady Alice Lisle was beheaded on a platform constructed outside The Eclipse Inn. She had to crawl through a window on the second floor to receive her punishment. She was the last women in England sentenced to beheading. Four years after her execution she was pardoned. Supposedly her ghost haunts the Inn.

Lady Alice Lisle had to climb out the windows above ”The Eclipse Inn”

Our guide pointed out other landmarks where castles and fortifications had been, but now we’re only remnants. She took us to an area where a huge castle had been constructed, burned down, later turned into military barracks, and today are million pound (£) flats, with beautiful lavender beds.

The only remnant from this huge castle is the Great Hall. On the way to the great hall, she pointed out a monument to US Soldiers who fought in England during the great wars.

The British promised they would never forget the American Soldiers

Arriving at The Great Hall, the guided walk was over, and we were on our own to explore The Great Hall. The Great Hall was constructed between 1222-1235, commissioned by Henry III. The Great Hall is the home of the “Round Table” of King Arthur and Camelot fame. The Round Table has resided in The Great Hall for over 700 years. In 1976, a team of specialists analyzed the wood and determined it was built between 1250-1280, placing it within the reigns of Henry III and Edward I. Edward I held a grand tournament in Winchester in 1290 to celebrate the betrothal of his children. It is believed the Round Table may have been constructed for this occasion.

Over the years The Great Hall had many uses, including a court of law, and this is where Lady Alice Lisle was tried. There is a bloody looking block (actually painted red) in the Great Hall which I assume is symbolic of Lady Alice Lisle’s beheading.

Today, it is a tourist attraction and home to The round Table which hangs on the wall. There is a huge statue of Queen Victoria.

On the wall opposite the round table are The Wedding Gates. The stainless steel gates commemorate the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana. The key to open the Wedding Gates is in the shape of a “W” to represent Prince William.

The Great Hall has lots of history and symbolism.

We cannot leave The Great Hall as it is pouring rain. So we wait it out for awhile and when the rain lets up, we went in search for a pub for lunch. We checked out The Eclipse Inn, but did not quite like the menu. We checked out another pub and menu, but finally settled on the third pub we found, “The Old Vine”.

They actually pump the beer from kegs.

Interestingly, two of their lights are similar to those Dave and I bought in Venice many years ago.

I had the Ploughman’s lunch and Dave had a meat pie with chicken, ham and leeks. 

Ploughman’s Lunch (yes, I took a bite of the ham)

After lunch it was time to take on Winchester Cathedral.

About 650, King Cenwalh builds a church in Winchester (not the Cathedral). About 828, Winchester becomes the capital of England. 1079, building starts on the Cathedral. Over the years there has been much expansion, remodeling and restoration. One particular fellow that caught our eye was William Walker. In the cathedral there is a memorial to William Walker for saving the Cathedral with his hands. Water running under the Cathedral was weakening the building and he used a divers helmet, with air pumped down to him to strengthen the supports by cleaning out old wood and cementing the foundations. The Cathedral is 558 feet long, Nave width is 82 feet, and has a height of 150 feet. The floor area is 53,480 square feet. There are many tombs in the floor, as well as other locations in the Cathedral. First we visited the treasury, which was a room up some narrow stairs, with no windows, which contained ancient silver chalices, cups, and other silver pieces used in churches, I think mostly from England. The oldest item we saw was a silver paten which is a plate used to carry bread at the Eucharist from 1260.

Back on the main level, we see the grave of Jane Austen.

Jane Austen, One of many graves in the floor of the church

There is a 12th century marble font still used for baptisms.

The Holy Sepulcher Chapel contains 12th and 13th century wall paintings of the Passion of Jesus Christ.

Another chapel has 6 mortuary chests containing the bones of a bishop, a queen, and early kings. These chests are sitting on beams high above the ground. The contents have been examined and the bones only reflect one woman.

Behind the nave is a section referred to as the “quire” which I think is term for where the choir sings during services. In Winchester Cathedral, the quire is the oldest of great medieval quires in England to survive substantially unaltered. There is a lot of graffiti on the walls of the Cathedral which surprised and disgusted us.

While visiting the Cathedral, there was a special exhibition “Kings and Scribes: The Birth of a Nation”. This exhibition gave us an opportunity to view part of the church from above.

Two notable items are a 12th century Winchester Bible, written in hand, and I believe it was 958 pages, but the pages were very big – maybe 20 inches x 14 inches, and the writing is small. The Bible has been analyzed and it is believed to have been written, in Latin, by one person, with no white-out, over 5 years!. We were also able to peek into a library from the 17th century, but couldn’t touch anything. We were not allowed to photograph the bible or the library.

Many hares around Winchester! Here’s some samples!


The fun begins: We were pretty done with touring, it was about 4:00pm and out bus was scheduled at 5:20pm to return to Heathrow near our hotel. We figured we’d get to the bus pickup early, but didn’t really want to do much else. So we headed to the city bus pickup that takes us to the National Express pickup. The city bus came pretty quick and we were at the National Express bus stop by about 4:30. It was cool, with a breeze, with off and on drizzle. Dave was smart enough to bring a book while we waited, but I had nothing to entertain me. At 5:20 we were looking for our bus, as our bus from Heathrow to Winchester this morning had left early, we thought the bus back to Heathrow might be early. One of the city bus drivers told us National Express sometimes runs late because of traffic. So we waited. About 6:00, I tried to call National Express, but their offices close at 5:00. The city bus drivers kept coming by and were sympathetic. While we are waiting, 3 National Express buses, going in the wrong direction came by. We kept questioning their bus drivers, but they were of no help and unwilling to help. One lady city bus driver was very kind and trying to help us. She said her last run back to Winchester was 7:00 and we told her if National Express had not come by then, we would go back to the city with her and catch a train to London. After sitting in the cold, drizzle rain for 2.5 hours, at 7:00, no bus, so we rode back to Winchester with her and she dropped us off at the train station. The bus driver didn’t even charge us for our ride to the train station! She had been very kind and helpful during our wait. The ticket lady at the train was helpful, too, and said she frequently heard of issues with National Express. Our trip to London would require two train changes. She printed out an itinerary for us so we knew which stations we were to switch trains. We only waited minutes before the first train came about 7:30pm. We had no issues changing trains and got into London about 9:00. We found a store selling sandwiches, vodka and wine, which we bought! Then we started looking for the tube to take us to Heathrow. Yes, I needed vodka tonight. The tube station, Paddington, was inside the train terminal, and we were able to get a tube train fairly quick. Probably did not get back to our hotel until 10:00, about 3 hours later than we expected. While riding on the nice, comfortable train, Dave asked why we didn’t use the trains in the first place. I said, our choices were a direct bus, OR, taking the tube into London and then catching 3 different trains to get to Winchester. Obviously, the direct bus looked like the best choice. 🙄

June 26, 2022 (Sunday):  We spent the day in London today. Fortunately the tubes were running, but some were very crowded. We got off the Piccadilly line at Green Park and switched to the Jubilee line getting off at the London Bridge stop. From there we walked to Borough Market. This is a really cool, phenomenal market focusing on food. Borough Market consists of three main areas: Three Crown Square (larger producers and merchants), Green Market (small, specialist produce traders) and Borough Market Kitchen (street food traders). Surrounding the Market, you’ll find a complementary blend of restaurants, bars and shops. They are all individual vendors with foods from England as well as other counties. Fresh vegetables, cheeses from many producers, wine, beer, meat, condiments, etc. Here are some pictures:




Strawberries which can be dipped in chocolate
Big steaks!

One of the vendors making paella
Crowds eating their lunch – not our thing.

I was not very hungry, although I did get a glass of Prosecco, and since we were there during lunchtime, it was packed with people. Dave was getting hungry, probably from looking and sampling some great food, but did not like the idea of sitting shoulder to shoulder with strangers with no table. There are restaurants, but they were packed, too. We decided to look for a pub.

Walking out of the market area was an old cathedral, Southwark Cathedral, the oldest gothic church building in London. In AD 606, it was a convent. In 1106 it was a priory. I didn’t know what a priory was, so I looked it up. It is a monastery of men or women under religious vows.

The church has been expanded and remodeled over the centuries, but they preserved one area which had archeological interest. They found evidence of a Roman road from the 1st century, and a medieval stone coffin, one of several found, possibly from the 13th century. 

Stone coffin possibly from 13th century
Inside of Cathedral
Memorial to William Shakespere in the cathedral
Old wall of cathedral, missing the roof

Walking out of the cathedral, we could see an old ship in dry dock, in an inlet off of the Thames River.

This interesting sign was posted in front of the dry dock:

After visiting the cathedral, we found a pub, “Old Thameside Inn” and it alongside the River Thames, apparently established in 1873.

We got an outside table next to the river.

I got some Scottish salmon and Dave got barbecued brisket with horseradish sauce.

Scottish Salmon
Barbecued brisket

These were “starters” or appetizers because if we eat too much at lunch, we aren’t hungry for dinner until too late. This pub is one that is on the “London Ale & Gin Trail”. 

The bar
View of where we had lunch

After eating, we walked toward St. Paul’s Cathedral, where Princess Diana and Charles were married. We walked across London Bridge, but it is not as eye catching as Tower Bridge.

London Bridge
Tower Bridge

We passed monument square, a monument built on the site of the St. Margaret Fish Market to commemorate the great fire of London. The fire burned from September 2 – 5, 1666. It devastated 2/3 of the city, destroyed 13,200 houses, 87 churches and 52 livery halls. It was built in 1671-1677, designed by Robert Hooke in consultation with Sir Christopher Wren. 

We got to St. Paul’s Cathedral which is where Prince Charles married Lady Diana. Of course, no photography ia allowed onside the Cathedral.

St Paul’s Cathedral is an Anglican Cathedral in London that is the seat of the Bishop of London. The cathedral serves as the mother church of the Diocese of London. Its dedication to Paul the Apostle dates back to the original church on this site, founded in AD 604. The present structure, dating from the late 17th century, was designed in the English Baroque style by Sir Christopher Wren. Its construction, completed in Wren’s lifetime, was part of a major rebuilding program in the city after the Great Fire of London. The earlier Gothic cathedral (Old St. Paul’s Cathedral), largely destroyed in the Great Fire, was a central focus for medieval and early modern London. At 365 feet high,it was the tallest building in London until 1963. The dome remains the highest in the world.

At 365 feet (111 m) high, it was the tallest building in London from 1710 to 1963. The dome remains among the highest in the world. 

Services held at St Paul’s, besides the wedding of Charles and Diana, have included the funerals of Winston Churchill and Margaret Thatcher, and the 80th and 90th birthdays of Queen Elizabeth II.

We happened to get there at 3:00pm for the Evensong and Sermon on the Second Sunday after Trinity Service. The service was very moving, but did not quite follow the program we were given. Being as it is Sunday, we were happy to be able to attend the church service. The choir was made up of adults and young boys, but they are planning to include young girls, too. While the music was beautiful, it was hard to follow the choir when they were singing. But we had the words in our program, so even though we couldn’t understand them, we could read what they were singing. They read two passages from the Bible. The first was about Isaac being deceived by his wife Rebecca and giving his blessing to Jacob instead of Esau. The second was about Jesus returning to his hometown with his disciples and when he began to teach in the synagogue, the elders were offended by his wisdom. Later, after much singing by the choir, the sermon was preached by Rev. Giles Dove, Chaplin, Glamis Castle, in Scotland. Many portions of this Anglican service were similar to our Methodist church. We were very glad we happened to be there for this service.

After the service, we were close to Paternoster Square where there is a sculpture in bronze “The Wild Table of Love”. Julie Rocheleau asked me via Facebook if we had seen it. Since it was so close to St. Paul’s, we went to see it. 

The Wild Table of Love

We got back to the hotel after 6:00pm, and just had appetizers for dinner. We really had a good day in London and felt like we saw alot.

June 25, 2022:  Another transportation strike day, but the buses are running. We plan to walk today. I found a shopping mall and thought we’d go there. I really have not seen any stores that sell clothing except resell shops, of which I’ve seen a lot. It is called The Centre and is 2.7 miles – so a nice hike for us. We walk past several places we’ve been before, like St. Mary’s Church and The Bell on the Green, but The Centre is further away. We get to a place called The Centre, but all the stores are outside. There are sports stores, but no ladies clothing stores. We wandered in and out of some of the stores, but did not buy anything (not even Diet Coke, Pringles, or wine!). We decide to find our pub of the day. There is a pub type restaurant at one corner of the Centre, it’s called “The Moon on the Square”. We go in, and it’s very crowded, probably because it’s about 1:30pm on a Saturday and everyone is out getting drunk already! So we find a table and while we weren’t crazy about the menu, we decided on something to order. There is a symbol to scan to order from your table, which we used. We filled out our order, get to the pay section, I scan my credit card, and it wants to text me a code to verify I am who I say I am. Well, we’ve been through this before and the code would be texted to my US number (which is the number on file with my credit card) and not my English number, so I would not get the text. So Dave goes up to the bar to order. After waiting about 10 minutes, he gives me the sign – let’s get out of here! No one would wait on him and the bar maids were crazy busy. So we walk around and do not see much that’s inviting. There are several ethnic restaurants, but they do not look appealing. We finally end up at what I think is a chain, Nando’s. It was busy! I did not take a picture of the food. We just got chicken wraps. They were good, but we thought all their food was overpriced. After lunch, we walked a little further as we had seen a church with a tall steeple and I wanted to check it out. As we got close, we realized the church had been converted to apartments or condominiums. At this point, we decided to take a different route home so we could see some different scenery. But, there really wasn’t much to look at – that’s why there are no pictures today. Our walk home took us by the first pub we visited, The Green Man. We were also in the flight landing path and could almost touch (😳)  the bottom of aircraft flying over our heads. One plane came in and was really too high to land, sure enough he pulled up and it looked like he made another attempt. The only picture today is of a gas price sign. It was hard to get the picture, because for some reason, every time we tried to take a picture, the regular, unleaded price didn’t show up! It was weird, but we finally got it. So if my math is correct, a gallon of unleaded gas would cost almost $9:  (1.939gbp/liter x 1.22 to convert to USD = $2.36/liter x 3.785 to convert to gallons = $8.93!). We have seen the price fluctuate between 1.90gbp/ liter to 1.999gbp/liter.

Cost of gas per liter in Great British Pounds (gbp)

We ended up walking about 7 miles today.

I got hungry this evening, which is unusual because our lunches are larger than what we normally eat. we went to the Hilton restaurant and I had the fish and chips:

Fish and chips, or beer battered cod as its listed on the menu

Dave had their trout dish:

Trout

He had this before and really liked it, but said this portion was smaller than when he had it before. It included beets as a vegetable which he normally doesn’t like, but I think he liked these beets because they weren’t pickled.

 June 24, 2022:  We got up early this morning. I was thinking we were going to take a bus from Heathrow terminal 5 to Windsor Castle. Dave wants to do an Uber because it is only 8 miles and it takes the bus over an hour. So I tried to book an Uber, but kept getting errors and could not book a car. I ended up calling Uber support, and they said the problem will be fixed within 72 hours! I think the problem is that I am using a SIM card and the phone number on the SIM card is used over and over. Uber is telling me the phone number I’ve been assigned is in use on several accounts. I think that’s why I cannot book an Uber. By this time, we had missed the 9:05am bus. So we try the car service, Sky Cars, we used to move from the Ibis hotel to the Hilton. We have to wait 20 minutes for the car, but it turns out to be cheaper than Uber – 18 GBP vs 25 GBP (Great Britain pounds). I had not booked the tickets for Windsor Castle in advance because I didn’t know exactly what time we’d get to the castle, or based on the buses/Ubers/car  services, if we’d get there. So while riding in the car on the way to the castle, I try to book our tickets. 10:30am, which is the time Dave wanted, is still available. So I enter all my information, get to the end, and to verify my identity, they want to send a code by text to my phone. The problem is I am using an English phone number and they want to send the code to my US phone number. Another glitch in our travel! I can’t get the tickets in advance. We get delivered right to the castle about 10:00 am, so we actually beat the bus. There is a long line, and I told Dave we’d probably have to wait in that line. But no! We were sent to a very short line to buy our tickets! The lady selling us our tickets was very nice and told us we’d have time to visit St. George’s chapel before the changing of the guard at 10:45! Out tickets, which were about 27 GBP per person included an audio guide. We were told there are no photographs allowed inside the buildings. We got our audio guides. Walking to St. Georges chapel, we see the Round Tower. As I look over the wall at the Round Tower, there is a little park with a little pond. Just as I look, mama duck and her ducklings jump into the pond. Of course I was not quick enough to get a picture of the ducklings going into the water, but they were cute. They loved walking on the lilipads. I hope you can see them in the picture. The first picture includes the round tower and pond, the second picture I tried to zoom in on the pond.


Zoomed in picture of ducks, ducklings are hard to see but they’re on lilypads

Next, we went to St. George’s chapel. Harry and Megan were married in St. George’s chapel. The chapel can accommodate 800 people.

St. Georges Chapel

St. George’s Chapel was founded in the 14th century and is the chosen burial place for the British Royal family. There are many famous burials in the chapel, I believe they said 10 kings, including Henry VIII, George VI and his wife (Queen Elizabeth’s parents), and Prince Phillip. It is expected that Queen Elizabeth will also be buried here. The ashes of her sister, Princess Margaret, are in St. George’s chapel. There are many sacred relics housed here including a fragment of Jesus’ cross. 

As we walked the center aisle, I could look side to side and in my mind see where the Royal family has sat for Harry and Megan’s wedding. I remember in watching the wedding that Megan walked halfway down the aisle by herself, and then was joined by Prince Charles. It is very obvious inside that the chapel appears to have two halves. 

After visiting the chapel, we found a place to stand to watch the changing of the guard. This ceremony lasted about 45 minutes! The guard in place before the change had a dark uniform. Several military with the same dark uniform marched in and underwent an inspection by a senior military person. In the distance we could hear drums and then a marching band. The marching band, in the recognizable red jackets and fur hats, marched past us, and then a regiment of guards in the red jackets and fur hats followed the band. The dark uniforms and the red jackets did some maneuvers, mostly just standing in place and getting perfectly aligned. The guard with the dark uniform was replaced by a red jacket with a fur hat, and the marching band played 3 songs. Several of the military went into the guards room and stayed there until after the band played. Finally, they all came out of the guards room, the marching band started playing and led the way for all the military to leave. 

Guard in place before the changing of the guard ceremony
Assembling of guards in dark uniforms
Marching band entering plaza
Actual changing of the guard
New Guard with red jacket and fur hat

We were surprised it lasted so long, but we really had a good spot to watch. 

After the changing of the guard, we visited the state apartments in the Castle. Windsor is the oldest inhabited castle in the world and has remained in continuous use since built by William I in 1066. Queen Elizabeth is in residence at Windsor Castle. 

The first thing we saw was Queen Mary’s Doll House. The doll house was never meant to be a child’s toy. It was presented to Queen Mary in 1924 and meant to demonstrate all that was best in British workmanship. So it has running water, miniature leather bound books, a miniature gramophone with records that really play, wine bottles with real wine, etc. These apartments were used by prior kings and queens, and a few of the rooms are currently used. So we did not see Queen Elizabeth running around ☹️. We probably saw over 20 rooms. The normal tour routing was changed as they are preparing a display of the Queens Jubilee. The Jubilee display will be in St. George’s Hall and the Lantern room, which were the rooms severely damaged by the fire in 1992. St. George’s Hall can seat 160 people for Royal banquets. Our audio guide was great as it gave us a one or two minute description of each room and the notable objects. I have to say it was one of the best audio guides we have used, as it was not too lengthy. We spent about 2 maybe 2.5 hours touring the castle. We did buy a couple of souvenirs- 2 shot glasses emblazoned with the jubilee insignia and an official souvenir book about Windsor Castle.

Shot glass with Jubilee emblem

Leaving the castle, we walked into the town of Windsor. It is really cute, and of course we found a pub as we were hungry after all that touring. We found “The Carpenters Arms”. All the pubs we have been to have a listing for “starter” which are like appetizers, and “sharing” which 2 or more people can share. Dave and I opted for a fish platter which was advertised to contain “Wholetail Scottish Scampi, king prawns with Marie Rose sauce, smoked Scottish salmon, beer-battered haddock goujons, and mini salmon and dill fish cakes served with tartar sauce and lemon aioli”. Most of it we enjoyed. 






The scampi is missing ☹️ but it was shrimp and sauce on toast


Inside our pub of the day

After lunch, we checked the bus schedule, and we had about 45 minutes to find our bus stop. We actually found the stop pretty quickly, and noted that this particular bus did not make all the stops, so it should only take about 45 minutes to get back to Heathrow instead of 70 minutes. Since we still had awhile before the bus was scheduled to arrive, we walked around a little. Windsor had transformed what used to be the train station into an area with shops.

What was the old entrance to the train station
Replica of engine that pulled the Royal train cars

The train still stopped here, but the big station and ticket booths had been replaced by ticket machines. We wandered and saw the replica of an engine that used to pull the Royal train cars, as well as cute shops. We walked back to the bus stop, bought a bottle of water, and anxiously awaited the bus, hoping we were really in the right spot.

The bus came, and it was empty. It was a double decker, so of course we headed upstairs and sat in the front. We actually sat across the aisle from each other taking up all 4 front seats! There was no one else on the bus! We drove for a bit….and pulled into a school parking lot. About 30 loud, screaming, foul mouthed kids boarded the bus ☹️. Somehow our journeys always turn out different than expected. The bus proceed to make about 5 or 6 stops that were not listed on the schedule, dropping off kids at each stop. Finally, at the next to last stop, all the kids were gone and we had 5 minutes of peace before getting to our stop, Heathrow terminal 5. We are staying at the Hilton at terminal 4, but there is a free train/tube between the terminals. We did check out Terminal 5 for a planned journey on Monday, and then proceeded to the tube/train. First we go to the tube/train that stops at terminals 2 and 3, and then change for the tube/train to terminal 4 (there is no direct tube/train from terminal 5 to terminal 4. You have to go to the stop for terminals 2 &3 and change tube/trains). We get to terminal 2 & 3, and look at the board to see the next tube/train to terminal 4 is in 16 minutes. Then they make an announcement that if you need to go to terminal 4, you have to go back to terminal 5 and take a bus to terminal 4. We always run into issues! OK, we go back to Terminal 5, find the bus. You are suppose to swipe your credit card getting on and getting off, but if it’s between terminals you won’t get charged. We swipe getting on, and I swiped getting off, but Dave’s credit card apparently didn’t register….he will probably be charged for taking the bus to the end of the line ☹️. 

Finally getting back to the hotel, we head straight to the bar for a drink. All in all, it was a good day. But could have been much better without the hiccups!

June 23, 2022:  The transportation strike is in full swing today, so if our feet don’t take us, we’re not going. We did not do much today. Not needing to get up early, we hung around in our hotel room doing some research on the two or three places we still want to go while here. I washed some things out in the bathroom sink. By 1:00, we were ready to do our walk to a pub. The one I picked out is called “Load of Hay” and about 1.5 miles away. We started out the same way as day before yesterday, as the Load of Hay is just about 1/2 mile down the same road as “Inn on the Green”. We passed what I previously thought was a duck sitting on her nest, but upon further research, I discovered it is actually a coot. She is still there diligently doing her job.

We walked past St. Mary’s church again and past Inn on the Green. We notice lots of construction which is billed as affordable housing. We also passed a gated community with a sign saying it is owned by a charity. Dave and I think it is some form of charitable housing for seniors, or disabled or something. It looked very nice. We finally get to “Load of Hay”, and find out they are not serving food today – must be because the staff was unable to come into work because of the transportation strike. Our travel hang ups continue! We remember passing another restaurant, “O Calhau”.

It is more of a restaurant than a pub, but has liquor and beer and wine. It bills itself as a Mediterranean Restaurant with tapas. We had 3 tapas plates for lunch: Parma ham with melon, bruschetta, and calamari. They serve calamari with tartar sauce, but Dave asked for tomato sauce instead, which they substituted. It was a good lunch.

OK, I had a few bites of melon before I remembered to take a picture.
Yes, Dave grabbed a piece off the plate before I could get a picture.
This picture I got before anything disappeared 😁.

Afterwards we stopped at a store so Dave could buy more wine and Pringles.  We walked back to the hotel, checking out the construction some more. Yes, a slow day thanks to the transportation strikes.

June 22, 2022: My fingernails are very important to me, and if I were “Elon Musk” wealthy, I would pay for my nail technician to travel with me! On many of our longer trips, I have not been able to find a nail salon that looked clean, used drill type tools, etc. Even on the cruise ships – they’re clean, but they don’t use the tools to really get the acrylic thin so it doesn’t lift. So my nails have been a big concern for me since we will be gone 7 weeks. I knew I could go 4 weeks since I’m not doing housework or doing any heavy lifting….but I didn’t know what would happen beyond that. Today, I am at 4 weeks. So when we found we were going to be in London for awhile, I started looking. I asked ladies at the hotels, googled, checked trip advisor and cruise critic. Somehow I kept going back to one salon I found on Google. One lady at our hotel told me to look in Kensington or Knightsbridge. The salon I found had 3 locations, including Kensington, and listed “acrylic fill” as one of their services. Dave was very encouraging as he knows how important the fingernails are to me. So since we did not have plans for today other than to find a pub, our big mission today was to find a place to get my nails done! Because of the transit strike this week, there are fewer trains running, so more people on the trains. The salon I found, Serenity Nails and Beauty, has 3 locations, which I took as a good omen, and the closest one to me, in Kensington, was at the tube stop for “Earl’s Court”. I could have booked online, but it looked like they had lots of openings, and I wanted to see the place in person before committing myself. We got there about noon. They had 4 pedicure chairs and 3 nail chairs – so kinda small, but they were busy! They had availability at 2:20pm, so I booked it. Dave and I just wandered around the area and we knew we could find a pub here for lunch. Earls Court is part of Kensington and Chelsey. It is really a cute area and we enjoyed walking around checking out which pub we would go to for lunch, and wasting some time. We settled on The Blackbird Pub. Their specialty was pies and it is named after the famous Blackbird Pie, immortalized in the nursery rhyme, “Sing a song of Sixpence”. It is really not an old place, but it was fixed up cute.




Ham mini pie
Old fashioned water closet!

Dave had been wanting a British meat pie, so this was perfect. I had a mini steak pie and Dave had a mini ham pie. They were served with gravy and mashed potatoes. It was the perfect size for lunch. The pie, gravy and mashed potatoes were very good. After eating, we still had an hour before my appointment, so we walked some more. Finally, it was 2:20. The lady that did my nails did a very good job and hopefully they will last until I get home in 23 days. Yea! 

In the meantime, Dave found another pub close to the nail salon, The Kings Head, to enjoy a glass of wine while he waited for me.

Back to the tube station to go back to the hotel – we didn’t have to wait too long, but the tube cars were packed!  Dinner at our hotel tonight. Dave had fish and chips, and I had a lamb dish with creamed cabbage which was delicious!

I have to try to remember to take pictures of our food before it is half gone!

June 21, 2022:  The transportation strike has us pretty much grounded. We did do some research on a couple of places we hope to visit, but with the transportation strike, we will play it day by day. We looked into flying to Munich early, but all the hotels we were interested in are full – probably because of Oberammergau and the Passion Play. 

Our big adventure of the day was trying out another pub, and of course we are looking for places we can walk to, which means less than 2 miles away. Today we walked to The Bell on the Green. It is only about 1 mile from our hotel. On the way, we crossed a narrow, shallow river, the Duke of Northumberland’s River. There was a mama duck sitting on her nest just above the water! It looked like papa duck was bathing himself on the other side of the river, with another duck!

We also walked by an old church and graveyard. St. Mary’s Church is the Church for Bedfont and is historic.  The original church was likely wood, and the village was mentioned in the Doomsday Survey. The most likely date for rebuilding the church in stone is mid 12th century. There are two yew trees which are trimmed to show two peacocks at the top, and the dates 1704 and 1990 on each tree. Apparently the 1704 represents the date the trees were trimmed to resemble peacocks, and the 1990 was the year an expert topiaries recut the trees which had lost their shape after the Second World War. Not sure I agree that they look like peacocks.

We did not see them, as we could not enter the church, but there are brass plaques inside the church memorializing people who died, the oldest being Isabell Page who died in 1629. There were many tombstones in the graveyard, but most were very hard to read. The oldest we saw that we could read was from 1740. 

Not much further along, we reached our “Pub of the Day”, “The Bell on the Green”. As a side note, we see a very mixed, integrated population in England. Many workers, servers and pub owners appear to be of Indian descent, but there are many black people, too. As to the pubs and even the hotel restaurants (Ibis and Hilton) have curry dishes as well as Indian dishes,  many vegetarian and vegan dishes. Today, Dave ordered a spicy chicken sandwich which he said was not very spicy.  Many dishes are served with chips, which we call French fries! I like to try different things, so I had Lamb Biryani. The lamb was incorporated into a blend of rice and vegetables, and came with a red sauce, Biryani gravy,  made with tomatoes, spices, herbs and vegetables (I think I recognized green beans and peas), and another sauce, Raita, that reminded me of tzatziki….and maybe it was! Raita is yogurt based. It was good and very filling. The pub had some cute sayings above the bar.



The Bell on the Green


We stopped at a grocery next door to pick up some necessities for Dave – Diet Coke and Pringles. Then we walked back to the hotel, checking out the church some more,  and making sure mama duck was still on the nest (she was). 

After our big lunch, we didn’t want much for dinner. We felt like the Hilton didn’t have any good appetizer type offerings that we hadn’t already tried, so we walked down the tunnel that connects us to the terminal at the airport, and there is a Crown Plaza (and a Holiday Inn express and a Premier Inn) also connected to the same tunnel. We decided to try the bar at the Crown Plaza. Dave got chicken wings that were too spicy and I got squid with a sauce I didn’t like with a couple glasses of wine. Oh well, at least we tried something different!


June 20, 2022:  After a very busy day yesterday, we are not doing any big trips today. This week will be challenging anyway, as a transportation strike is planned this week in London. 

Dave has a bagful of laundry he is going to send to be washed, which is mostly socks, underwire and shorts. He gets it all ready and gives it to the housekeeping lady. I am fortunate as I can wash out most of my stuff in the sink. To skip ahead a bit,when we get back from lunch, there is a knock on the door and they are returning the laundry. And, more importantly, they gave us a 50% discount! Wow! At least someone likes us!

I have been searching for pubs within walking distance, and we tried one for lunch today, “The Green Man”. It was established in 1537, but parts of the building date back to 1640. There is a legend involving a secret chamber in back of the fireplace….which is where the bathrooms are now!




After lunch, we walked back to the hotel, stopping to check out a convenience store. They don’t have a good selection of wine, but they do have some lite tonic! We pass a field with some horses, and there are two young ones. One of the young horses kinda looked at us and we thought he might walk over to us, but about half way, he decided against it. I think this breed of horses is Gypsy Vanner, a bred of domestic horses from Great Britain. They had the long hair over their feet.

We got back to the hotel and took a brief rest, and decided to take the tube to terminal 2, as we think that is where we are leaving on Lufthansa. We thought we would check it out since we have the time. It is free to travel between the terminals. So we walked over to terminal 4, which is near our hotel. There was a train waiting, so we hopped on. We were at the stop for terminals 2 & 3 in about 10 minutes, and we were kind of amazed it took that long. After the train arrived, we had to choose terminal 2 or 3, and we chose terminal 2 as that is the one we are flying out of. I was actually hoping to see some shops and such as I did not bring a hat on this trip and thought I might find a visor. After taking numerous moving walkways and escalators, we finally arrived at Terminal 2. It was a zoo! People all over the place! We did manage to see where we need to check in. But decided it was too crazy. There is suppose to be a Pub here, but with the masses of people, I lost interest very quickly in trying to find it. So, we decided to head back. We backtracked through the maze of escalators and moving walkways to finally get to the platform we needed to return to terminal 4. The next train was suppose to be in 20 minutes. It kept getting pushed back further and further. I think we ended up waiting 53 minutes for a train to take us from terminal 2 to terminal 4. Again, the Walkers travel plans are cursed!

We get back to the hotel, rest for a bit, and decide to go to dinner, in the hotel. Nothing much planned for tomorrow due to the transportation strike. We will probably seek out another pub. 


You can tell it was a slow day – lots of pictures!

We were laying in bed ready to go to sleep, watching a little TV. Dave is flipping through the channels and comes across a program ”Naked Attraction”. I could not believe what we were seeing on TV, and of course we had to watch! This is like a dating game show. There are 6 men or women in booths on stage, and a “contestant” of the opposite sex. The people in the booths are stark naked and as the show progresses, their bodies and faces are revealed starting from the bottom up. Each person in the booth is eliminated one by one based on the body parts revealed until there are only two left. At this point you can see their faces and their whole body. Now the contestant goes offstage and returns naked! when the naked contestant comes back, they pick their date from the two remaining people. The conservative, putitan me was shocked that this was on TV, in the 10:00 time frame. But I couldnt turn it off and had to watch! Can you imagine going in to work the next day and saying, ”Oh, did you see me on TV last night?”.

June 19, 2022: Did not get an early start, probably headed out about 10:30am. Our plan for today is to go into London and visit the British museum. Our hotel is connected to Heathrow Terminal 4 which has direct access to the Piccadilly tube line. It is very easy to travel on the British public transportation. You just swipe your credit card at the entrance and when you exit. According to the hotel concierge, it will never be more than 14 GBP per day, no matter how much you use it. The train is waiting for us so we hop on. It is about an hour ride to our stop, Russell Square. From there it is a short walk to the British Museum, which has free entry! It is busy today, but with free entry, and on a Sunday, I guess that would be expected. We grab a map, but it takes us a few minutes to get our bearings. The British museum is a bit overwhelming and has more artifacts than anyone could possibly see in a day, maybe even a week. You can get an audio guide, but there would be too much for us to see. But, their map has a convenient “must see” list with each artifact listed on the map, by the letters A through L.  A dozen artifacts seems about right for us, and remember, they are located all throughout the museum which has 7 levels I think. 

So, pretend your on a journey through the British Museum with me!

The first item, A, is “ The Holy Thorn Reliquary” which I assume is suppose to be from Jesus crown of thorns….but we will never know! We find the location, room 2a, but the exhibit is closed! So we cannot see item A.

Item B is noted as the most famous chess set in the world, The Lewis Chessmen.

 

A little amazed that this is the most famous chess set in the world!

Item C is an Astrolabe, which is a spectacular scientific instrument from the Islamic world.


In this same large display, I found this globe to be very interesting:


From 1275-76? They knew the world was round?

Item D is The Oxus Treasure. It is one of the largest collections of Achaemenid gold and silver objects and dates to about the 5th and 4th centuries BC. It was found in the 19th century close to the river Oxus on the boarder of Afghanistan and Tajikistan.


Item E is The Portland Vase and is the Roman inspiration for Wedgwood.


Item F is Tang Dynasty Figures from the tomb of a general.



Item G is Shiva Nataraja, Lord of the Dance from south India.


We decided it was time to take a break, so we stopped and had lunch. There is a sit down restaurant but it had a very long line, so we went to a quick pick lunch where you pick your items and take them to a cashier to pay and hope to find someplace to sit and eat. Fortunately Dave is always very good at finding a seat, and he did again today.

After a bit of rest and refreshment, we were off to find Item H, Brass plaques from Benin, masterpieces of African Art. But when we got to the stairs leading down to the African gallery, it was closed! while wandering around to see if there was another stairway down to the Africa exhibits, we saw a bonus artifact – a crystal skull. We’ve seen some documentaries on crystal skulls and they are purported to be ancient. However this skull was examined by experts and thought to have been made in the 1800’s.


The next item, I, is the Moai known as Hoa Hakananai’a. It is a colossal ancestor figure from Rapa Nui, Easter Island. The people from Easter Island have asked the British Museum to return the figure, but so far it is still in discussion.

Item J is probably the most interesting, The Rosetta Stone. The Rosetta Stone was the key to deciphering hieroglyphs. This is the one exhibit that people were really crowed around.

Not much more to say about this famous stone!

Item K, Assyrian Lion Hunt reliefs, seemed to be missing in action. There were some huge stone sculptures in the Assyrian gallery that looked like maybe they lined a road, but no Lion Hunt reliefs.



The last item, L, is Parthenon Sculptures from ancient Greece. The museum had an obnoxious amount of sculptures from the Parthenon, lining the walls of a huge gallery.

This is curved because I used the ”pano” feature on my phone


This is another curved pano picture. I use the pano option when there is too much to get in one photo.

While this completed the ”Don’t miss list”, we did see other exhibits while we were passing through various rooms/galleries looking for the next ”don’t miss item”. One exhibit we saw was a mostly complete monument, The Nereid Monument from Turkey.


Another item that caught my eye was this tile piece, supposedly from Nebuchadnezzar‘s Throne room.


Dave and I found it a little disturbing (?), not sure if that is the right word, with almost the greediness of the Museum collections. I think reading about the Moai from Easter Island and how the Islanders want it back, and all the pieces from the Parthenon, where we know from visiting Athens that they are trying to reconstruct the Parthenon made us feel like it wasn’t right for the British Museum to keep all these artifacts. They are very interesting to see and read about, but its like overkill. Just our opinion…..

We left the museum about 3:30 and checked our map of London to see what else we wanted to see. We have been here before and saw many of the sites, so we decided just a little refresher. We walked to Trafalgar Square which was totally being overtaken by Muslims having some type of gathering.


The we walked to the building that once housed Scotland Yard, but on the way we passed “Walkers of Whitehall Pub & Restaurant”, and Dave felt a tug at his heartstrings.


Our next stop was 10 Downing Street, but we could pnly get to the start of Downing Street as it was fenced off with several bobbies guarding the entrance.


Another famous London landmark, Big Ben!


Can you believe they still have these in London? Maybe they were just there to amuse tourists. If so, I guess it worked!

Our final stop was to walk by Buckingham Palace. Last time we were there for the changing of the guard. The horses marched down the road right through the gates. This time we only saw what the horses left on the street 😀. There is a park, St. James, that we walked alongside and we saw one attempted escapee.


Just before getting to Buckinham Palace, we saw some swans, and crazy people trying to pet them! Swans can be vicious!


Some pictures of Buckinham Palace – could not get close, and actually crawled through a fence to get here, as did many other people!

Gate leading toward the Palace
Before climbing through black fence in foreground
Front of Palace , balcony where royals stand is blocked from view by black gates

We had enough of London and headed back to our hotel on the tube. When we got back, we got a drink and went outside to a little area the hotel calls their beach. We stayed for awhile, but got cold and went back inside to finish our drinks and have dinner, and then crashed after a long day.

June 18, 2022: Check out time is noon, so we took our time showering and getting ready to leave. We check our about 11:30 and tried to use Uber for the first time. They kept wanting us to verify our credit cards, which we did many times over, and they they would reject our payment method. We tried with Daves card and my card. Finally we gave up after about an hour and got the number of a car service from the hotel. The car service price was actually about the same as Uber- maybe a little cheaper even, but we had to wait an hour. While waiting, we notice I is hotel has a sign advertising the price of rooms – it is actually more expensive than the Hilton that we’re going to! Finally about 1:30 we get our car and he drives us to the Hilton. We check in and we are in room 384. Dave hoped for a good view of planes landing and taking off….it is a view of the planes, but not a great view. Our room however is bigger, has a “chiller” (not as cold as a refrigerator), tissues, a desk, a nice chair to sit in, a closet, a safe, some drawers, an ironing board and iron, a brightly lit bathroom, a big shower, an ice machine down the hall, better shows and movies on TV, etc. Obviously, much nicer than the Ibis. And, Hilton left us a welcoming gift!

Dave did a home test for COVID, and he still has a very faint lint indicating positive. However, it is so faint compared to our other tests that I’m sure he is almost over it. Fortunately, I don’t think we will need any tests for our travel to Germany or our River cruise. Supposedly, Viking had dropped all testing requirements unless required by the country we’re visiting, and it looks like those countries are requiring vaccinations and boosters less than 270 days old. We are good with that as our last booster was May 2. Regardless, I think in 11 more days Dave should be texting negative. I have my handy certificate of recovery from Princess, so I do not have to test.

We spent the day unpacking and reorganizing our clothes. We will probably send a few things to the laundry here at the hotel. I can rinse out most of my shirts in the sink, but will send shorts and jeans to the laundry. Lunch & dinner at the Hilton today.  Tomorrow we may go into London.

June 17, 2022: We did not get going early – really not morning (or late night) people. Around lunchtime we headed towards a park I had read about, Cranford Park. On the way we crossed a little stream which we e crossed gefore, but today there were ducks enjoying the water. On the banks are what I think are Queen Ann’s Lace, as we have seen this same plant along the roadsides. But the Queen Ann’s Lace on the banks are about 8 feet tall!

We stopped at Kentucky Fried Chicken for lunch, and then continued our walk. Cranford Park is billed as a “natural country park with 144 acres of wood, meadow & wetlands, a graveyard and a resident ghost”. Supposedly the site was used by the Knights Templars and is recorded in the Doomsday book. 

When we got there, we discovered it was mostly closed for renovation! Of course…typical for our travels! There is normally a visitors center, but it was closed, too. We were able to walk around St. Dustin’s Church and graveyard. I believe I read the church is from the 14th century! Unfortunately the church was locked. We did find some interesting gravestones, and the earliest we could read were from the early 1700’s. The oldest ones get hard to read. There were beautiful grounds, and several paths, but without maps we were not adventurous enough to walk any of them. 

The worst used constable? what is ”worst used”?


1728
1732?

We headed back to the hotel, and decided to do a slightly different route. I had pulled the route up on Google maps, but with the construction, we could not get exactly where we wanted to go. We knew we were headed in the right direction, and finally Google rerouted us. We walked awhile, and then Google literally took us down a dirt path, along “Frog Ditch”! That was interesting! What was nice, was it was in a wooded area, following the ditch, but there was nice shade from the trees and it was a very hot day. If we had found the original route, we would have been walking alongside a road in the hot sun. It was an interesting experience – the path was about 1/2 mile long, maybe a little longer. By the time we got back to the hotel, we had put in our 5 miles for the day. But, we still wanted to go to the grocery store and pick up some essentials (for Dave). So after a little rest, we walked to the little store and back, which was another mile under our belts. 

We ate dinner at our hotel – I had a lamb kebab which was just a little tough, and Dave got chicken curry, which was HOT and SPICY! After 2 bottles of water, he managed to finish it. Then, back to our room to reorganize and pack up for our move to Hilton tomorrow.

June 16, 2022: Spent much time on the phone today ☹️. I think my Verizon account gives me a “free day”, but if not, I’ll have a big charge for call to….Verizon! I purchased a SIM card, only to discover my new iPhone was locked, which means I cannot use a SIM card from anywhere except my Verizon USA SIM card. Tried chat, but it was getting me nowhere. Finally called customer service. The rep had to complete some form, but by the evening, Dave got an email that my phone was unlocked! Also made call back to travel agent to cancel our October cruise. Seriously, all this, trying chat, trying SIM card, calling, on hold, blah, blah, blah….took much of our day! After this Princess fiasco, we’ve decided to take a break from cruising for awhile, not to mention how the stock market is crashing. ☹️. We did get out for awhile and walked to Kentucky Fried chicken which is about 1/2 mile away. We also entertained ourselves watching planes land at Heathrow. We just went downstairs to the hotel in our restaurant for dinner to find that after 7:00PM (it was about 7:30PM), they have a limited menu. We had to stand in line at least 20 minutes to put in our order. We both got Ham and cheese panini’s. After eating, we stood in line another 20 minutes to get drinks and sat at tables outside….and watched planes coming in to land. 

I found an interesting park nearby that I hope we can visit tomorrow, but it is forecast to be hot, so we will see.

June 15, 2022: Dave and I pretty much wore ourselves out! This morning, Dave saw that the Heathrow Hilton at Terminal 4 was reasonably priced – probably because Terminal 4 just reopened! So we decided to walk there and check out the hotel. It is about 3.3 miles, one way, to the Hilton. On our walk, we enjoyed watching the planes landing at Heathrow fly right over us!

It was hot, but fortunately we have changed from jeans to shorts. Had a little trouble figuring out the entrance as a pedestrian, but we finally got in. The doorman, Paul, was very friendly and helpful. He took us to the Concierge, Dragos, who answered all our questions. The hotel looks very nice, nice lounges, the room has Wi-Fi and a “cooler” instead of a refrigerator, but ice is available. Transportation into London is very close, so we booked our room and Dragos got us a little better deal than what we were seeing online, plus upgraded us to a deluxe room. Dave said that just means we’ll have a robe and slippers, which we would never use anyway. I am so relieved that we have a place to stay! We walked through their walkway into the airport (the hotel is connected to Terminal 4), and wandered around a bit. It was early afternoon by this point, so we got a sandwich and drink, and sat down to rest for a bit. After lunch we wandered into one of the airport shops, and I bought a SIM card for my phone. Then we began our long walk back to our current hotel, Ibis. We rested for awhile, then I checked my phone and saw that I had emails from Nancy. I missed the early emails, but finally picked them up when Nancy, Bill, Rusty and Susan was waiting for their food at the White Hart Inn. So we walked over to meet them. They were done with their meal, of course. Nancy and Bill stayed while we ate ours. We had ribs – just one generous serving, with a green salad, Cole slaw, and French fries. Bill had tested positive early in the cruise and took Paxlovid, a COVID drug. He tested negative at the end of the cruise, but now he has rebound COVID. He looked miserable, but it is just cold symptoms – runny nose, sneezing and coughing. He wore a mask while we were there, but hopefully our COVID is protecting us for awhile at least. Rusty and Susan stay for a few minutes, but they left their credit card someplace and wanted to see if they could find it. Turns out they had left it at a little convenience store and the store held it for their return! 

Ribs from White Hart Pub

We walked back to our hotel and crashed. We walked over 8 miles! 

June 14, 2022:  We did not do much today. Spent a lot of time trying to find a hotel for our 11 days after our 5 days at Ibis. Dave is very good at finding good hotels. We are trying to decide whether to stay in London, where we would be able to walk around, or stay near the airport where we would have transportation into London and elsewhere where we may want to visit. The hotels in London central are very expensive, with the decent ones costing more than $350 per night. Some of the less expensive rooms, other than being tiny, don’t even have windows! 

Our first big adventure today was walking to McDonalds for lunch. It is about 1/2 mile away. We sat outside to eat our burger and fries and then walked back to our hotel. 

The second big adventure was to walk the other direction from our hotel to see if we could find a decent grocery store to buy breakfast bars and soda. About 1/2 mile away, we spotted a Starbucks and a Kentucky Fried Chicken. We kept walking and all we were seeing were these small Indian convenience stores. There are plenty of them, but they don’t carry breakfast bars. The road we are walking on is parallel to a Heathrow runway, and we see lots of planes coming in.

We probably walked about 2 miles and gave up, walking back to our hotel. After a bit of a rest in our room, we went down to the lobby to grab a drink and some dinner. We got the best thing on the menu – chicken and bacon pizza. That should be enough to explain the menu. The dining area was pretty full, and there was a group of young people that came and really filled up the place. After eating, we went outside where there are a few tables and found a seat, but it was too chilly – so we just went back to our “spacious” room.


June 13, 2022: I think a lot of people who were already in quarantine for 5 or more days, and received the same Certificate of Recovery letter that I received stating I was no longer contagious, complained about being disembarked. Late yesterday evening we received a call from the ships doctor that I would be retested sometime after 6:00am on the 13th with the assumption that if I was negative, we could stay on the ship. The thing is, once you test positive for COVID, you may test positive for weeks. This is why you are issued a certificate of recovery, with the date you were positive and stating that you were quarantined for the CDC  requisite of 5 days…because you will be testing positive for awhile. 

The medical technician showed up about 6:30am and swabbed my nose. She said we’d hear within an hour. I get the call from the ships doctor – no surprise, I still tested positive. 

We had expected a long morning with no food, so we ordered a big, hot breakfast with eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns, beans, etc. with orange juice and coffee….except the coffee didn’t come with the breakfast, so I had to call to get my coffee delivered a bit later.

Our letters tell us to be ready for a knock on the door around 9:30am, and we will be escorted off the ship. We wait and wait. finally they come for us about 11:00am, and they tell us to keep walking until we see two big gray buses. It is a bit of a hike from our room, down the hall to the midship elevators, down the exit ramp of the ship, through the halls and big luggage rooms of the terminal, and then outside around the building to to two gray buses. There are masses of people with our purple luggage tags that identify us as the COVID passengers. And many people in front of us as they probably started getting people at 9:30, but it took until 11:00 to get to us. We join the long line and hear the two gray buses are full. They need to get more buses. And the line in back of us keeps growing. The last couple on line, we happen to know from our lunch in Clearwater. They are Rusty and Susan Anderson. Later we find out they didn’t come for them until 1:00PM, but they think they may have been forgotten. We are standing outside with these masses of people, and of course there are those people at the back of the line who can’t wait their turn. It ends up that the Princess people move a bunch of people from the end, right in front of us, to make room for the people coming to board the ship. So now we are one big mass of humanity. My wild guess is that there are over 200 people waiting for transportation to the hotel assigned by Princess, in London – well, near Heathrow airport, actually. With the two buses already filled and gone, I would have to guess that Princess disembarked at least 300 people, who were planning to cruise to Norway. 

After about 90 minutes, some Princess people did bring us water (but no lunch 😁). Sometime after the two hour mark, a bunch of taxis show up. We later hear the buses refused to drive COVID positive people to London. There was an unbelievable amount of taxis. Of course everyone had a lot of luggage – they were planning for a 34 day cruise, not 18 day. Many of the taxis could only handle 2 people and their luggage. We ended up in a taxi for 4 people. 

The drive to Heathrow took another 2 hours, and we had not eaten since breakfast. We finally get to the hotel we’ve been assigned to for 5 days – Ibis Heathrow London Hotel. We are told at the front desk that Princess is paying for the room for 5 days, we are not suppose to leave the room but order in food and he gives us a menu with lunch and dinner items, but no breakfast items.  He takes our credit card and puts a $500 (supposedly) hold on it to cover our food purchases and assures us will will be refunded any balance not used. The interior of the hotel lobby looks modern and clean. It is one big open space with not much separating the lobby check-in area from the restaurant, which is like McDonalds tables and chairs. It is about 3:00PM, and we head to our room.

Dave and I are really disappointed in our room. There is a bed, a bathroom, a shelf along the wall and one chair. It is tiny. There is no room to walk around. We are suppose to order all our food for 5 days, but the room does not have a phone. (What happens if one os us COVID people have a medical emergency with no phone in the room?). The room does not have a refrigerator, microwave, table, Kleenex, or hand towels. Diabetics getting kicked off the ship might need a refrigerator for insulin. One wall, probably 8 feet long, has a minuscule closet with 4 hangers. There is a curtain that covers the rest of the wall. We open the curtain thinking a window is behind it, but the window is maybe 2.5 feet wide, and the rest is just wall! This is funny….the bathroom toilet is at most, 15” off the ground – It is a cross between a squatty potty and a western toilet. Difficult to get up and down for mature people! We have 2 bath towns and a bath mat. Dave had seen a cleaning lady in the hall and went to ask her for hand towels (remember with COVID how we are suppose to wash our hands!). She had no clue what he wanted and finally gave him two bath mats, which are very thin, so we are using them as hand towels. Obviously, Princess was only looking at $$ and had never seen the inside of this hotel room. Others from the ship were sent to the Radisson Blu Heathrow (which looks like they have great rooms) or the Mercure (which we find out later has more of the basics).

On a positive note, I will say the room seems to be clean. It is ideally set up close to the airport for a one night stay is you fly in late, or if you have an early morning flight. In those instances, all you want is a clean bed and bathroom because you are just going to sleep and leave. But for an extended stay where you are suppose to be confined to your room, it is totally inappropriate. 

Once we are in the room, Dave took a COVID home test and of course he is positive. Counting back with when he began to get congested, we figure he is in Day 4. England does not have a quarantine requirement, Princess gave me a letter saying I’m not infectious and I’ve serve my time, so….Dave will be cautious and we are not going to confine ourselves to thesis room.

I am emailing Nancy (and Bill) Young, another Clearwater lunch couple. They have been assigned to the Mercure. They are friends with Susan and Rusty Anderson, who were the last in line. We are all very hungry and I found a pub online that is between their hotel and ours, White Hart Inn, and we decide to meet there for an early dinner. 

The pub was quite charming and the host was very friendly and welcoming. We all had fish and chips with a beverage of choice. We had a pleasant early evening. We did find out that while their room at the Mercure is small, it does have a table (so a little more room), microwave and refrigerator.

From left, Rusty Anderson, Bill Young, Nancy Young, me, Dave, Susan Anderson



Fish and Chips


June 12, 2022: We got the letter, or rather letters. Yes they plan to kick us off the ship in Southampton. They will put us up in a hotel in London for 5 days and give us $100 per diem for food. What is even more interesting is they gave me a letter saying I’m no longer infectious and I don’t have to isolate – but they’re still kicking me off the ship. Dave is trying to contact the powers that be and figure out why they are kicking us off the ship if I’m no longer infectious. Also found out another couple we had lunch with in Clearwater tested positive! So 8 out of 8 of us that lunched together before the cruise have tested positive. What are the odds?


June 10 -11, 2022: Not much action when you are in quarantine! We are at sea for two days. On Saturday, 6/11, they are testing everyone onboard for COVID. Dave got a letter with an appointment time, but he can’t go because he is supposed to stay shut in with me. He finally called the medical team and they said they would send someone. After that he got two calls about missing his morning appointment. About 3:00, a lady came and did his test, but we never received the results! I have internet so I’m checking the message boards, and also have the email and stateroom phone number for Nancy and Bill Young, a couple we had lunch with in Clearwater before the cruise. It sounds like we will be getting a letter telling us what will happen when we reach Southampton. We may be booted off the ship, which is a bummer because I’m at the end of my quarantine. But again, we don’t know if Daves test was positive or negative. I feel like Dave was set up to get COVID , because he quarantines with me in close quarters. If he doesn’t get it, it will be miraculous. He is coughing a little, and he has a little congestion, but not as bad as me, and mine was pretty mild. I am feeling much better every day. We have been ordering things from room service, and it takes forever. We decided we wanted a snack this afternoon about 4:00, so I ordered some potato chips and chocolate chip cookies. We did not get them until after our dinner arrived at 6:30, so over 2 1/2 hours! Lunch orders have been a bit exciting, too. Sometimes they only bring one set of silverware. Most lunches come with French fries and we always ask for ketchup. One day it took over 2 hours to get the ketchup, so of course the fries were cold by that time. The next time they forgot ketchup, Dave called and the phone rang for over 20 minutes before they answered. He told them that the last time it took over 2 hours to get the ketchup, so this time they brought it in about 5 minutes. Of course the fries were cold because it took 20 minutes to reach someone to tell them they forgot the ketchup! We are seeing more rooms with tables at the doors in our hallway, so we know those are quarantined people. When I spoke to Nancy, she said she tested positive today as well as Susan and Rusty who are traveling with them. Bill had COVID this trip, but had gotten a prescription from his doctor for Paxlovid, and quarantined himself. He tested negative today. Tomorrow will be interesting if we get “the letter” which will determine our future. Dave calls medical about his test again, and they tell him they don’t have him on the list of positives so he must be negative,

I do not believe Dave is negative. He is not severely sick, but he is coughing more than usual, and has more congestion than usual. I think the lady who did his test ((who seemed a little scattered), lost his test. After being confined with me, and with this strain of COVID being so contagious, he has to be positive.

June 9, 2022: We are in Lerwick, Scotland, the Shetland Islands. Unfortunately, since we are in “lockdown”, we can’t go ashore. The town looks very quaint from our stateroom on the ship.

It looks like a New England town. There is an interesting ship docked in the town, Island Sky, registered in Nassau. It looks like a smaller size cruise ship. Our ship is at anchor and to get to shore, passengers have to take tenders. We ordered our breakfast for 9:00AM, but it didn’t come until 9:45! We were starving! I do not feel awful, and I feel better than yesterday. Yesterday I had a headache all day, but that seems to have gone away. I was coughing more yesterday, too. I am very tired, and keep falling asleep. I am sneezing a lot! Dave, the wildlife observer, spotted two sea lions in the water not too far from our ship! He will try to get a picture. We watched several times, but we’re unable to get a picture ☹️. We have been getting our food delivered, and we supposedly can order anything we want. Unfortunately, sometime the food is warm but not hot, and the wine is warm and not cool (white wine). But, we’ll survive. We are splurging tonight and getting some chocolate cake and red wine! This is a pretty good time to be in quarantine…. The captain just announced we will be missing out next port, Cork, Ireland, because tropical storm Alex is causing weather issues and the seas will be too dangerous. We will be approaching Falmouth through the Dover straights instead of passing by Scotland, Ireland and Wales (if my geography is right), basically taking an extra sea day to get to Falmouth. we do see families rowing by our ship!

Mom & Kids doing all the work while Dad….steers?

June 8, 2022: Yesterday, walking around Akureyri, I had a bit of a sore throat, didn’t sleep well last night, and felt a little congested. All night long I kept thinking I probably have COVID. So when I got up this morning, I took one of our home tests that we brought. Unfortunately, I was positive! We called the medical center onboard and waited about 4 hours for a technician to come and test me. I tested positive again. Dave tested negative. This blows my mind because there are people on the ship not wearing masks, mixing with strangers at trivia and such, and eating at shared tables. Dave and I do none of that! We wore our masks from the time we left home and we always get a table for two in the dining room. When we go to the theater, we sit off by ourselves and we have not been going to trivia or any of the events where we can’t social distance. Anyway, we are quarantined in our stateroom for at least 6 days, or until I test negative. I don’t know how Dave will avoid getting it, being cooped up with me. On top of that, we have no TV, and no internet. Dave has a couple of books, but I finished the two I brought. We order our food and they bring it to us. Today is a sea day, so we are not missing much. Can’t really use our balcony because it is pretty chilly outside. The captain has made some announcements about a storm that may affect our ports, but has not given us any details. The water is much rougher than it has been. Tomorrow the ship will be in Lerwick, Scotland, but we will be in our stateroom ☹️.

June 7, 2022:  We are in Akureyri, Iceland today. I am glad that our cruise hit 3 ports in Iceland to give us more exposure to the country. This is a bigger city than Isafjordur and there are more shops to visit. I had seen a small glass sculpture with the etching of an Icelandic horse that I liked when we were in Reykjavik, but there was a flaw in the glass so I didn’t buy it. I figured I would find one in our other Iceland stops, but unfortunately I didn’t. I wanted to buy a little something to remind us of our visit to Iceland, so I got a little troll figurine. Trolls are big in Iceland, and in Norway, too. So after visiting some shops, we saw the Lutheran Church which sits high over the port…110 steps to be exact!

We made it up the steps and the church was open. They have some beautiful stained glass windows, one of which came from London.

A resident saw it in London and thought it would look good in the new church that was being built. It was thought to be one of the windows saved in WWII from a church in Coventry, England, but was later determined that it was not from that church. It is still the center window in back of the alter. After visiting the church, we walked up some more to visit the botanical gardens. The gardens sit higher than the church, but it is a gentle sloping sidewalk along the side of the road. It is a distance up, but we made it! The area covered by the gardens is probably only a couple of blocks, smaller than the gardens in Halifax. I really enjoy all the flowers, which would be impossible to grow in our climate in Florida. There are many tulips, daffodils, pansies, etc., and many others that I don’t know. I think we saw some azalea’s and begonias, but the descriptions are in Icelandic or Latin, so we weren’t sure what they were.



Water Fountain!

The climate feels so much warmer than the actual temperature. I only had on a sweater and was very comfortable. Dave said his toes got cold, but I had on wool socks, so my toes were fine. The botanical gardens sit next to a junior college. So as we exited the gardens, there was a big sign next to a path which led downhill back toward the main part of town. Going down it is called the “path of destruction “ because there was a dancehall at the bottom and the college kids would take the path down to the dancehall. But coming up the path, it was called the “path to higher education” as it led to the junior college buildings. We headed down the path to destruction, and it was treacherous. It was pretty steep and made of cinder stones, so it was easy to slip and lose your footing. At the bottom, we walked back towards the town and visited a few more shops that we hadn’t seen earlier.  Many of the shops have their doors open because the heat from the underground thermal vents is free! I wanted to stop back in one of the shops we had seen earlier and buy my Iceland souvenir, the troll. I saw some socks and convinced Dave to buy a pair because I think they will help keep his toes warm as we head into Norway. One interesting point, we didn’t think the shopkeeper was overly friendly. Maybe all the passengers from the ship wore her out, but we felt like we were a bother to her. 

Troll on shopping street
Trash receptacle with troll (on the left 😁)

I did like Iceland and I think the scenery is beautiful. I am so glad I didn’t freeze! It is so weird to look out our balcony window and see mountains (hills?) with snow on them. These mountains are the result of volcanos, and I couldn’t help but wonder what it was like here when those volcanos were erupting. Of course, that was thousands of years ago, but the ground in Iceland is still moving, and the heat from underground supplies the warmth and hot water. 


June 6, 2022: Today we are in Isafjordur, Iceland. It is a very small town, and the westernmost city in Europe. . The ship anchors in the harbor, and we have to take “tenders” to shore. As the destination lecturer said, whoever named them “tenders” never rode in one. The tenders are actually the lifeboats. Getting up in the morning, the TV is telling us the temp is 41 degrees and we are kind of dreading get off the nice, warm ship, but we are in Iceland and I want to take advantage of it. There weren’t any organized tours that interested us, so we just plan to get off the ship and wander around. We know there are museums, a library, a grocery store, a Thai restaurant and a bakery. We were most interested in finding the grocery store so Dave can buy some M&M’s and Pringles, and checking out the bakery. We walked a short distance from the tender port into town, following the other people from the ship. We stopped in a little souvenir shop, but there’s not much there. We wander a little more and there is kind of a plaza in what seems to be the city center with benches and picnic tables. We walked on and saw the bakery and the grocery store,practically across from one another. It feels warm outside! It reminds me of visiting Sandie in Denver years ago where the temperature was cold but the sun warms everything and you’d never think it was only in the 40’s. We go into the bakery, and so did everyone else from the ship. It is busy with a few tables which are all taken. Dave is humoring me by being here. He doesn’t drink coffee so he grabs a water,which he isn’t going to like because it is carbonated with some lime flavoring. I get a coffee and pick out a pastry with chocolate frosting. We get it to go because it is too crowded in the bakery, and we walked back to the little plaza and sat at a picnic table. It is so pleasant out, we are enjoying the fresh air. But the coffee isn’t that great and Dave doesn’t like the frosting on the pastry. I think the pastry itself has a good flavor. After our little break, we decide to save visiting the grocery store until we are on the way back to the ship. We wandered around the town some more. Many of the houses are painted bright colors and are constructed from corrugated metal sheets.

We passed a small Catholic Church, and then walked further and saw a large cemetery. We walked through the cemetery and as our guide yesterday told us, peoples last names are their fathers name and then either “son” or “dottir” (daughter). So Dave’s last name would be “Donaldson” and my last name would be “Raymonddottir”. The oldest grave we saw was someone who died in 1865, but most of the graves were from the 1900’s. The cemetery is attached to a large church, which I assume was Lutheran, as our guide yesterday indicated Lutheranism is the most prominent religion in Iceland. We spotted a large whit building which was originally a hospital, but now is a library, or “cultural” center. Since it was a public building we decided to go in to use the facilities.  There are children out and about, and the librarian told us that today is a holiday, Pentecost. Being that is a religious holiday, it was evident that religion is still very important, at least in this small town. I did not get the same feeling in Reykjavik, and our guide said most young people are either atheists or agnostic. Near the library was a large statue honoring fishermen. We decided to head back to the ship, stopping at the grocery store on the way. The grocery store building reminded me of a grocery store we visited in Japan. You walk into the building and the grocery store was on one side of a long, wide hallway, and there were businesses on the other side, including the Thai restaurant. We checked out the grocery store, and found the shelf holding the pringles, but the slot for Daves favorite (sour cream and onion) was empty! They had plenty of pringles, just not his flavor. The had smaller bags of M&M’s, but those he can buy for less on the ship. So, we left empty handed and walked back to where we have to catch the tender to go back to the ship. Close to our boarding area was a big pipe dispensing ice into large trays. Then, a guy in a forklift would lift the filled ice trays and take them down the dock to a large ship, which was apparently a fishing troller.

That was interesting to watch while we waited for our ride back to the ship! Once back onboard, I thought it would be nice to sit outside around the pool and soak up some sun. But, it was not as nice as it was onshore! It was too breezy and cool ☹️.


June 5, 2022: Today we are in Reykjavik, Iceland. We had an all day tour with Viator, entitled Golden Triangle with Crater. We met others that had signed up on the ship and walked off together about 8:30am. We realized we were probably early, as the tour operator was not going to meet up until 9:00am, We watched the buses come and go, and Dave and I wandered over to where the big busses were coming in. Finally about 9:00am,a big bus comes in with a sign that says Grand Golden Circle tour and we checked with the guy getting off the bus, who had our name. Yea! We have our bus! It was a big bus, and people from the ship almost filled it, but they made one more stop to pick up people from the hotels, I assume. This will be an all day tour because it covers several miles. The tour guide, Palli, teaches at a junior college. He is very knowledgeable, but his microphone is not the best, so it is a bit hard to understand him. He gives us lots of facts about Iceland, for example, they eat more pizza per capita than any other country in the world. Also, there was a big controversy about whether pineapple should be a pizza topping or not. We see mountains with snow on top, but the landscape is pretty desolate. About 95% of the homes in Iceland are heated from the steam underground. We can see holes where the steam is coming up. I think our guide called these hatches.

Leaving Reykjavik, we cross the giant hot water pipes that feed Reykjavik. We see many Icelandic horses as we drive. Our guide tells us there are 400,000 sheep in Iceland, too, but we don’t see them for awhile. Initially, all we see are the horses. 

We stopped at a strip mall, in Selfoss, basically to use the bathrooms, but there is a display of what happened when this area was hit by an earthquake. Iceland actually sits on the North American and European tectonic plates. Inside this strip center, on the floor, are plastic sheets that cover where the floor split, with North America on one side and Europe on the other. The grave of Bobby Fisher of chess fame is near here. 

We travel many miles between our stops. Our first stop is the Kerio crater, which is a volcanic cone formed from an eruption about 6500 years ago that collapsed and filled with water.  It is 270 meters long, 170 meters wide snd 55 meters deep. 

We see lots of mountains and lava flows our guide explains why some mountains have ragged tops and others flat tops. Apparently it depends on whether the lava breaks through the top of the mountain and flows over the edges or just spills over the top to make the jagged tops. 

Our next stop, and the first stop as part of the golden triangle is Gullfoss which is a waterfall. It is a beautiful waterfall which spills over into a more narrow river. 

The second stop on the golden triangle is Strokkur geysir. Geysir literally means gusher. The Strokkur geysir is pretty regular and erupts every 7 or 8 minutes, and can shoot about 50 feet into the air.  It happened that while Dave and I were watching, we actually had a double eruption! It erupted and the a few seconds later, it erupted again.

We were cautioned not to touch the water as it is very hot – like boiling. And, not to walk off the paths as the ground can be unstable. Our guide said one person ventured off the path and her leg sunk into the ground resulting in third degree burns. Since this location is 62 kilometers from a hospital, that was a very painful ride to get treatment for those burns! There is another larger geysir, the original geysir,  nearby, but it has stopped erupting. Our guide said it needs another earthquake. There are many steaming holes around this area with steam coming out of each hole. All the holes have names with the word geysir, so I assume they could erupt anytime. They are just not as regular as Strokkur. While here, there is a visitor center, so we were able to grab some lunch. Dave and I split a ham and cheese baguette, a small can of chips and a water. There are gifts shops at all the stops, but we have little need for Icelandic knits or furs. I took advantage of making a pit stop here, and I could barely wash my hands as the water coming out of the tap was so hot! It didn’t seem to matter which way I turned the handle, the water was hot. Maybe my sink was malfunctioning because Dave said his water was fine. Definitely proves the water coming up from underground is hot!

The last stop and the third stop of the golden triangle is Pingvellir National Park. This area is very interesting, although it has started to rain. Dave did not bring his rain gear, but I did. So he stayed on the bus while I went with the guide. First we stood at the edge of the North American plates. You can look down on the river below, which our guide called no-man’s land, as it is in neither North America nor Europe. The plates separate about 1 or 2 cm. per year, which means Iceland is growing. Standing where we were, our guide said it was about 10 km to Europe.

Across the river below is a church, and the national cemetery, where only two people are buried, two poets.

Then we walked through a gorge to an area called The Law Rock, and you cantellit is raining!

In about 930 AD, local chieftains gathered at this spot. They gathered to agree on critical issues of the day.  They chose this spot mainly because it had recently been seized from a murderer and designated for public use. It was relatively accessible in summer from every corner of Iceland and had ample water, grazing lands, and firewood to supply the sprawling gatherings. This continues to be an important meeting place over the centuries. In 1944, the independent Republic of Iceland was proclaimed here. We continued down the path to the Drowning Pool. Women accrued of crimes were drowned here in the late 16th to mid 18th centuries.

Drowning Pool


Then the bus drove us back to the ship. 

When we got back to the ship, we had a letter from the Captain indicating there were COVID cases onboard and masks were required to be worn. The captain also made announcements a couple of times. It will be interesting to see if people will wear their masks. Dave and I have been wearing our masks since day 1 because we have too much planned after this cruise and we hope we can stay healthy. We notice they have moved all the chairs away from the bars so you cannot sit at the bar. In the buffet, you can’t order a drink and wait for it….you can order it, but then you have to go back to your table and the staff delivers your beverage. It will be interesting to see if the COVID measures are enforced.

It stays light here for a long time. I don’t think the sun sets until after midnight and rises about 3:00AM ( I’m taking the word of our captain, as I don’t stay up that late or get up that early). As Dave and I were getting back to our cabin, Dave looks out and sees a whale breaching! I only got to see the resulting splash. He thinks it was an Orca. Dave is so good at spotting things – he has pointed out birds to me while we’ve been out to sea. Who would think there would be birds way out here!

June 3 – 4, 2022 Two more sea days. We attend the port destination lectures, and that’s about it. We have lost the internet, but still have TV. Saturday afternoon we went to a wine tasting for “elite” cruisers,  Went to dinner Saturday night and Dave heard them discussing the Chef’s table, which means we missed it again ☹️. 

June 2, 2022: We went to the “Captains Circle” party which is for frequent cruisers with free drinks. Of course, since we have the drink package, we get “free” drinks, or at least they’re paid for in our cruise fare.

Chocolate dessert



May 31 – June 2, 2022: We are at sea, with two more ahead of us before our first port in Iceland. So, not much happening. We are attending destination lectures, but we have already heard the enrichment lectures as it is the same presenter we had in November. The weather outside is getting colder and rougher. By dinner time Wednesday evening, the ship was rocking pretty good. Overnight Wednesday, we were awakened a few times with big crashing waves hitting the hull of the ship. We are surprised that we still have internet, as we were told we would not have it. But it is slowing down. Takes a long time for emails to load, and writing this blog takes a long time as the internet keeps pausing.
Tonight is the Captains Circle party, which is for frequent Princess cruisers. Seems like they are usually they are held on formal nights, but the invitation specifies ”smart casual” dress.

May 30, 2022: Monday, Memorial Day in the US. We docked in Halifax this morning. After breakfast Dave and I got off the ship with directions for a walking tour I downloaded from ”GPS my City” app. We started out walking along the harbor on a very nice wooden boardwalk. We were a little closer to town than what I expected and actually exited the ship inside our first sight, the Farmers Market. We didn’t even realize we were in the farmers market until we came back to the ship and saw signs indicating the farmers market was only open and operational on Saturdays and Sundays – today is Monday! Our next sight, or point of interest was the boardwalk itself. There are museums along the boardwalk, lots of places to eat or grab a snack, so very touristy. Just having had breakfast, and not being interested in museums, we just walked along and enjoyed the waterfront. We passed some large community hammocks which was interesting and a couple of people were taking advantage of them. We also passed some ”Drunken Lampposts” which is a sculpture displaying all the fun that can be had at the local beer gardens.


We walked past The Government House of Nova Scotia, which is the official residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Nova Scotia.


The Government House is practically across the street from the Old Burying Ground.


Our next stop was The Church of Saint David. The church was designed in 1865 and built in 1868-1869, opening on November 7, 1869. The Presbyterian church was established in 1925 when the Presbyterians leased and then purchased the former Grafton Street Methodist Church as their congregational home. The building is in the midst of the Old Methodist Burying Ground of Halifax. A small cemetary still exists. It is much valued for its historical and spiritual association with Methodism and the creation of the United Church in Canada, and also for its association with its architect, David Stirling. Stirlings creation is a rare, if not unique, example of the Victorian Gothic style. The building is highlighted by its great front gable with tall Gothic buttresses and five detailed finials that project above the roof line. Most notably, the church was built without a steeple.


From the church, we walked to The Public Gardens. Many things were in bloom, and because of our climate in Florida, we are not able to enjoy many of the spring flowers such as those on display in the garden today. We saw beautiful tulips is various colors, daffodils, lilacs and even a cherry blossom tree.

Cherry Blossom Tree

There was an Oak Tree planted by Queen Elizabeth’s father, but the future queen was there, too.

Oak Tree planted by King George 83 years ago



There was a pond, and a placard showing a picture of a champion rower on the pond. What struck me was the current condition of the pond. It is unbelievable that someone could row on this pond. However, there were ducks that seemed to enjoy it!


The pond today! Lots of scum on top!


Another photo from the gardens…..

The bandshell with beautiful yellow tulips


We spent a good amount of time in the garden enjoying the flowers and trees.

A short distance away from the garden was the Halifax Citadel Historic sight. The entry fee was $7 Canadian per person for seniors. The site was fortified in 1749 when the city was founded by the British. The Citadel was meant to defend Halifax Harbor and the Royal Navy Dockyard. Four citadels have been built on Citadel Hill. The first, built in 1749, was small with a flagstaff and guardhouse near the summit. By 1761 its condition had deteriorated. The second was completed in 1776. It was a permanent fortification that could accommodate 100 troops. The British military presence in Halifax through Citadel Hill is thought to be one of the main reasons that Nova Scotia – the 14th British colony ( Remember where the first 13 were! I don’t remember reading this in my history books!) – remained loyal to the Crown throughout and after the American Revolutionary War. However, the poor construction caused the citadel to fall in ruins in less than 10 years. The third citadel was completed in 1796. It was lardger but fell into disrepair by 1825. The fourth and final citadel was built between 1828 and 1856. This massive masonry-construction fort was designed to repel both a land-based attack or attack from the water by United States forces (those rotten Americans!). However, the Halifax Citadel quickly became obsolete following the introduction of more powerful rifled guns in the 1860’s. By the end of the 19th century, the role of the Citadel had evolved as it was used as a command center for other, more distant harbor defensive works. It also provided barrack accomodations. After WWII, the fort began to decay but it was restored and opened as a living history museum and historic site in 1956. We entered through a tunnel, with two guards protecting the fort. The first room we saw was the guard room and lock up cells.

We wandered around the inside, lower level, and then climbed to the next level to watch the ”Noon Gun”. Noon in Halifax is announced by the firing of the noon gun, a tradition that has continued every day since at least 1856.

Smoke from the firing of the noon gun.


We continued around the upper level, checking out the views of Halifax from the cannon sites.

Leaving the Citadel, we are by the Town Clock which has been in service since October 20, 1803. The clock tower is a four story, octagonal structure atop a rectangular building. The clock itself is four-sided so that time can be seen from all angles. It has a 13 foot pendulum, which is suppose to strike quarterly and hourly, but we didn’t hear anything. The tower housing the town clock has been used in the past as a guard room and as a residence for the clock caretaker.

Town Clock with Citadel in background

The next sight was the city hall built in 1890. It is located at the north end of “The Grand Parade”. The Grand Parade is a military parade square that dates to 1749. The first contingent of British settlers in Halifax arrived in June, 1749. Charles Morris, the Chief Surveyor, worked on the town layout which comprised an urban grid made up of oblong, rectangular city blocks with the Grand Parade at the center of the town. The plan stipulated a church at the southern end of the square, and a courthouse and prison at the northern end. The church, St. Paul’s Church, opened in 1749. It was the first Protestant Church in Canada and is the oldest building in Halifax. The northern end remained vacant until the city hall was built in 1890. The parade is composed of green space, statues, memorials to peace officers that fell in the line of duty, and those that died in WWI.

St. Pauls Church, the oldest building in Halifax. We didn’t get a picture, so I downloaded this one from the internet 😁.

At this point, we felt we were ready to return to the ship. We did not make it out to Fairview Lawn Cemetery, which is the final resting place for 125 victims of the sinking of the Titanic. It is a distance out of town, and we had already walked almost 6 miles around town, so we didn’t make it to Fairview Lawn Cemetery.

We are back onboard with five more sea days before our next port, Reykjavik, Iceland, next Sunday, June 5, 2022.

After dinner we made it to the early show in the theater – comedy and improv. The guy was funny, which was a good thing. Then we went to the Wheelhouse bar for music and drinks before bed. We are having trouble finding a seat in Crooners, the martini bar, so we’ve been ending up in the Wheelhouse bar.

May 29, 2022: Sea Day. We went to a lecture about Reykjavik, Iceland which will be our first port in Iceland. It sounds a bit like Oregon or Washington, lots of brief showers and then it clears up. The lecturer, Bernard Hutchison ”Hutch” said Iceland is very expensive. A burger from a McDonalds is about $20, and a beer and a burger is about $30. We are planning to do a ”Golden Circle” tour with Viator, and apparently several others onboard the ship. We listened to Hutch’s lecture on Halifax on the TV in our stateroom as we had missed the live lecture on Saturday when we attended the meet and greet instead. We were lazy today and did not walk the decks. After dinner we went to the Wheelhouse bar for drinks and music, then to bed.

May 28, 2022: Another sea day. This morning we went to a meet and greet which is a gathering of people who have been chatting on the Cruise Critic message boards. There were probably over 100 people! I was on a mission to meet someone with the handle ”your nurse 13” as we are touring Reykjavik with Viator, but she is kinda the one responsible for directing us to Viator, and I did manage to find her. We had lunch with Nancy and Bill Young, and Susan and Rusty Anderson. These are people we had lunch with at Whiskey Joe’s in Clearwater before the cruise. After lunch and a little rest back in our stateroom , Dave and I walked the deck for a little over an hour to get in some exercise. Tonight is a formal night, but we do not get super dressy…actually, Dave forgot a tie this trip! But, he has his sport coat. Some men have tuxes. After dinner we had a drink in the wheelhouse bar and listened to two different bands playing music.

May 27, 2022: Sea Day! Not much happening. We went to an enrichment levture and then realized this is the same lecturer we had on our November, 2021 transatlantic with the same subjects. Today was the Bermuda Triangle. The evening show was a vocalist, and we skipped it.

May 26, 2022:  When we got up this morning, we had an email from Princess that one of our ports, Longyearbyen, had been dropped and they were adding two ports in its place. We will be going to Alta, Norway on June 20, and to Lofoten Islands (Gravdal), Norway on Jun 22. I am a little bummed as we were planning to do a dog sled (on wheels) ride in Longyearbyen.

We left home about 7:50AM and had no issues driving to the port in Ft. Lauderdale. We dropped our big luggage at the port and drove to the airport to return our rental car to Hertz. Dave was inquiring of the Hertz employees as to where to go to get a taxi, and the Hertz guy volunteered to drive us to the port. That saved us from running around to find a taxi with our carryon luggage, so we were very happy. Embarkation was pretty smooth, although there were a lot of people, so some lines. No one was checking for the time you were assigned to show up, so I am assuming people with later assigned times came early. As soon as we were on the ship, I called to make reservations for the “Chef’s Table”, so we will see if we get it this time….I am not hopeful. We are in a mini-suite, C205. It is not as large as some of the other mini-suites we’ve seen, so I’m glad we aren’t in a standard balcony cabin as I would think that would be really tight. Our balcony is probably twice as deep as the standard balcony cabin balconies, which is nice. 

As we sit in port waiting to leave Fort Lauderdale, we see a boatload of boats! This ship must be heading for some exotic port, and there are some pretty big boats onboard. I think two had names – Azure Dream, and Wind Dancer. 

We went to lunch in the dining room, and just as we were finishing our lunch, Dave spotted Regina and Larry who are friends of our friends, Wayne and Melanie.

We have lots of sea days on this cruise, so there won’t be much to write about on those days. On our typical sea day, we check the “Princess Patter” which is the activities for the day, eat, drink, go to the shows and listen to music in the various bars. In between we read and relax on our balcony or somewhere on the ship. 


May 25, 2022 – Our COVID tests were negative! We are in the final prep stage. I find it hard to decide how much mouthwash/toothpaste/contact lens solution/etc. to pack for 50 days. Most of the ports will be in ”the lands of long pants”, and most of our clothes are Florida clothes. We are pretty much packed however and we are taking two large suitcases, a roll-aboard, a smaller bag that fits under an airplane seat and maybe a zipper beach type bag for last minute stuff. We were also concerned about getting our rental car that we had reserved way ahead of time. Rental cars have been scarce, but apparently the rental car supply chain is loosening up…kinda. The car we got is a 2019 (!) with 30,000 miles. In the ”old days”, all the rental cars were current year or maybe 1 year old.

Our plan is to drive to Fort Lauderdale – we are in boarding group A, which boards at 11:00AM. It is a 3 hour drive, plus we have to return the car, so an early morning for us. We will see!

May 14, 2022 – Getting ready for our trip, only 12 days until we leave. Got an email from Princess that there may be times when we will be unable to connect to the interner. I am hoping to update my blog live, but internet connectivity may hamper that a bit . Another email from Princess indicates boosters will be required. Dave and I are prepared for that, as we got our 4th shot on May 2. Some European countries are requiring vaccinations and/or the last boosters to have been received less than 270 days ago. There are people on the message boards that are upset that Princess made that decision the end of April, just a few weeks before we sail. The booster has to be given at least 7 days before embarkation, so there is still a few days time for those who need to get boosted.

There won’t be much to write aboout on our many sea days – just what onboard events we go to, and what we had for dinner! We expect to experience a lot more cold weather than we are used to.

This is the itinerary for our 7 week trip:

On the Island Princess:

Thursday, May 26 Fort Lauderdale, FL4:00pm 
Friday, May 27 At Sea
Saturday, May 28 At Sea
Sunday, May 29 At Sea
Monday, May 30 Halifax, NS, Canada8:00am 5:00pm 
Tuesday, May 31 At Sea
Wednesday, June 1 At Sea
Thursday, June 2 At Sea
Friday, June 3 At Sea
Saturday, June 4 At Sea
Sunday, June 5 Reykjavik, Iceland8:00am 8:00pm 
Monday, June 6 Isafjordur, Iceland8:00am 6:00pm 
Tuesday, June 7 Akureyri, Iceland7:00am 5:00pm 
Wednesday, June 8 At Sea
Thursday, June 9 Lerwick, Shetland Islands, Scotland9:00am 5:00pm 
Friday, June 10 At Sea
Saturday, June 11 Cork (Cobh), Ireland9:00am 6:00pm 
Sunday, June 12 Falmouth (Cornwall), England7:00am 5:00pm 
Monday, June 13 London (Southampton), England6:00am 5:00pm 
Tuesday, June 14 At Sea
Wednesday, June 15 Haugesund, Norway9:00am 5:00pm 
Thursday, June 16 Olden, Norway8:00am 5:00pm 
Friday, June 17 At Sea
Saturday, June 18 Tromso, Norway9:00am 6:00pm 
Sunday, June 19 Honningsvag, Norway8:00am 9:00pm 
Monday, June 20 At Sea
Tuesday, June 21 Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen, Norway7:00am 6:00pm 
Wednesday, June 22 At Sea
Thursday, June 23 At Sea
Friday, June 24 Trondheim, Norway7:00am 7:00pm 
Saturday, June 25 Andalsnes, Norway7:00am 4:00pm 
Sunday, June 26 Skjolden, NorwayNoon 8:00pm 
Monday, June 27 At Sea
Tuesday, June 28 At Sea
Wednesday, June 29 London (Southampton), England6:00am

Fly to Germany for our Viking Land Tour and River Cruise:

6/29 – 7/2/22 Munich, Germany

7/3/22: Oberammergau, Germany for the Passion Play

7/4 – 7/5/22: Innsbruck, Austria

7/6/22: Basel, Switzerland

7/7/22: Breisach, Germany

7/8/22: Strasbourg, France

7/9/22: Speyer & Rudesheim, Germany

7/10/22: Koblenz, Germany

7/11/22: Cologne, Germany

7/12/22: Kinderdyke, The Netherlands

7/13 – 7/15/22: Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Celebrity Millenium 3/21 – 3/31/22

Ten days in an Aqua class stateroom, 1140. Our itinerary is:

Monday March 21, 2022: Depart Fort Lauderdale at 4:00PM

Tuesday March 22, 2022: At Sea

Wednesday March 23, 2022: Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic 7:00AM-4:00PM

Thursday March 24, 2022: San Juan, Puerto Rico 9:30AM-6:30PM

Friday March 25, 2022: St. Croix, US Virgin Islands 8:00AM-5:00PM

Saturday March 26, 2022: Antigua 8:00AM-5:00PM

Sunday March 27, 2022: St. Kitts 8:00AM-5:00PM

Monday March 28, 2022: St. Maarten 7:00AM-4:00PM

Tuesday March 29, 2022: At Sea

Wednesday March 30, 2022: At Sea

Thursday March 31, 2022: disembark Ft. Lauderdale about 8:30AM

 Due to the pandemic, all cruise lines require passengers to get a COVID test 2 days before embarking. Dave and I kept discussing what to do….Walgreens, CVS and Sarasota County offer free testing and there are at home proctored tests you can buy. Nine days before our cruise, we ordered two home proctored tests for $69. They were suppose to be delivered in two days, but due to a snowstorm, they were delayed. So we started looking for other options.  We didn’t want to drive to Sarasota if we didn’t have to. We could never get into CVS that was close – we’d have to go to Fort Myers, which is a bit of a drive. We couldn’t get into a Walgreens in Englewood as all the appointments were taken. But we could get appointments at a Walgreens in Port Charlotte. So we made our two appointments for Saturday morning, which was two days before our trip. This Walgreens does the rapid test and you get an email with your results in 2 hours. Before Saturday, our purchased home proctored test arrived, but since they have an expiration date in January, 2023, we decided to save those for one of our later trips and just utilize our appointments at Walgreens. Our appointments were at 10:30am, so we were expecting our email with the results by 12:30 or so. At 4:00, we had not received our results, so I called the Walgreens, and spoke to a recording for 5 minutes that was obviously no help. Finally I got transferred to the Pharmacy, and was told all the Walgreens were having trouble sending out their results, but they could print them out and I could pick up a hard copy. This Walgreens was about a 25 minute drive away, but I really wanted the results before I started to pack. So I hopped in the car and drove there to pick up the hard copy of our COVID test results. We are both negative for COVID. I asked if they would still be emailing the results and was told they would. It is now Monday, we are sitting on the ship, and we never received our emails from Walgreens. Fortunately the ship accepts hard copies so we were good. 

Monday, March 21, 2022: Driving to the Port in Fort Lauderdale was uneventful. We dropped off our luggage, parked the car, and were on the ship in about 15 minutes. We had lunch in the buffet, and watched a submarine out in the waters close to where we were docked.  

Then we enjoyed our Aqua Class balcony, #1140, on the back of the Celebrity Millennium ship. Funny, but we can see the Island Princess from our balcony, which is the ship we’ll be on for 34 days, at the end of May.

Island Princess

Aqua class is designed for people that utilize the spa, which we don’t. But it also has a separate dining room, Blu, with anytime dining, which we like. The entrees are a little different, more healthy, than the main dining room, but we’ve been able to order off the main dining room menu, too. We spent some time becoming familiar with the ship. Before dinner we upgraded my beverage package….just a pain that the classic beverage package doesn’t include San Pelligrino water and wine only up to $9 a glass, which is the headache producing stuff. Then we went to listen to some music in the Rendezvous Lounge with “Higher Love”, a band with 5 members – 2 guys and 3 gals. We had dinner in Blu: Dave had Thai Spring rolls, Filet Mignon and Apple Pie ala mode. I had blue cheese soufflé, Filet Mignon, and Chocolate truffle with cherry. After dinner we went to the theater to watch a magic show with  Gabriel. I thought he was pretty good, but Dave does not enjoy magic shows very much. He just went because I wanted to see the show. After the show we stopped for nightcaps at the martini bar. Our first night onboard we get to do one of our favorite thing….silent disco!

Silent disco in the Martini Bar

Tuesday, March 22, 2022:  Happy Birthday Wayne! Breakfast in Blu, and then a presentation on our 6 ports of call. We went to the Captains Club event after lunch and met the captain and his staff. I like this captain. He is very personable, tells jokes on his daily update, and shows up at various events on the ship. He is very visible. It’s a day at sea, so pretty laid back. We went to two trivia events where we did poorly, as usual.  Dave did better on the music trivia than the two of us did on general knowledge trivia. We visit various groups playing music around the ship.  We ate at Blu – another delicious dinner. I had rack of lamb and Dave had beef toranados from the main dining room menu. After dinner we cruised through Effy and we’re surprised to find they had my emerald ring, and the tanzanite ring that Dave did not buy. Then we went to the production show, Boogie Woogie. Before the show, the captain and staff were introduced and apparently the captain said he will be appearing in two comedy shows, so we’ll look forward to that. Boogie Woogie was very good as are most production shows. Lots of singing and dancing to familiar tunes, with a little bit of a story line. After the show we went to the martini bar, as did everyone else! A duo was playing, “Super Nova Duo”. So far, our favorite musical entertainers are the duo and Higher Love (4 musicians and a vocalist).

Wednesday, March 23, 2022: Today we are in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic. We were here recently and did a ships tour, but today we are going to head out on our own. We had breakfast in Blu, and my plan was to follow an offline google map, with a little walking tour, but the main event was to visit the Amber museum. For some reason, I could not access my map, but figured we could get one when we got off the ship. Wrong! We had a very poor map with no street names, but at least we could figure out the general direction. Lots of police around to help us tourists cross the very busy streets. We walked to the Malecon, which is a Main Street along the water. We passed the firehouse, which was mentioned in the walking tour. 

None of the signs were directing us to the Amber museum. So we made a stab at it, and walked several blocks, not finding the museum. We asked an older gentleman who spoke Spanish and told us how to get there in Spanish, but at least pointed us in the general direction. We walked several blocks and asked a lady, who basically told us to follow her, which we did. She walked to the next corner and pointed to the right, and we could see a big building, which we figured was the Amber Museum. We found it! The entry fee was $2 USD per person and we got a guided tour! The original owner was wealthy and his wife collected Amber, which was the beginning of the Amber museum. All the pieces on display are from her collection. One on the things on the property was a perfectly restored Model A Ford. Then we saw a demonstration on making cigars. After he made the cigar, he offered it to us. We were a small group of 4, which was Dave and me and 2 ladies from Canada. None of us smoke and none of us knew anyone that smoked cigars, so we all declined his offer of the freshly made cigar. Then we walked through the museum and our guide told us everything about Amber, including how it is mined today. It is a very dirty, dangerous job, and the miners are paid based on their finds. The signature piece is a tiny lizard fully encapsulated in resin.

Lizard caught in resin

It is amazing to see mosquitos, cockroaches, flowers, and various other things fully encapsulated that are 5 million years old but recognizable today. 

Flower parts
Mosquito

Raw Amber would be unrecognizable to me.


After our guide walked us through the museum, she showed us a replica of an Amber mine, which she described as very rural. Then she showed us the process of making tobacco for the cigars, which takes more than a year. We saw the tiny seeds, plants in various stages, full grown plants and finally the leaves which are also put through a several month process before they’re ready to become a cigar. The end of our tour was a gift shop where you could buy Amber, cigars and various other souvenirs. We walked back towards to ship (which we could see in the distance), pausing in Independence Plaza, and checking out a couple of souvenir shops on the way back. We had seen some of the sights on our last visit to Puerto Plata, like Umbrella Street. There are shops and restaurants on each side of this street – the umbrellas obviously attract tourists!

Back on the ship and hot, we headed for the sunset bar, which happens to be directly below our stateroom, and had a couple of margaritas and some lunch. We had dinner in Blu and went to the show in the theater. The entertainment was a piano player, but he did more than play the piano. John Bressler was very entertaining with his comedy, music and singing with his raspy voice. Our routine is to stop by the martini bar before heading to bed.

Thursday, March 24, 2022: We have a Celebrity shore excursion today. It is a walking tour of Old San Juan. In reality, it was a walk to the fort, San Felipe del Morro Castle. The guide was very knowledgeable, but mostly in world military and political history. He was also a big (literally!) sports fan and would throw in sports talk along the way. So, we did not think the guide was the best. And, we got rained on. Our guide pointed out this building with a mourning flag painted on the door. It represents the difficult times our world has been through such as the pandemic and the war in Ukraine.

Mourning Door

The walk to the fort, and the entry to the fort. 

Long walk to entrance of fort
Fort entrance

Per our guide, one of the prettiest streets in San Juan, due to the colorfully painted houses.

Street with colorful houses.

Another couple, Bruce and Jean, in our group asked about “Can Can Pork Chops”. At the end of our 4 mile walk, the guide directed us to a restaurant and we joined Bruce and Jean. Can Can Pork Chops is a Puerto Rican dish. It is a huge piece of pork, about 12 inches long, but it has a lot of fat. Dave and I shared one with a local beer, and some Mofongo, which is another local dish. The best part of our tour was our enjoyable lunch with Bruce and Jean. Sorry I forgot to take the picture until we were almost done, but gives you an idea of how big the Can Can pork chop was. The roundish item was mofongo, and our waiter brought us the little container of orange sauce saying something about garlic.

Mostly devoured Can Can Pork Chop and Mofongo

Later, at dinner in Blu, we happened to sit next to another couple who had been on our walking tour. They had the same sentiments as us with regards to the guide. After dinner we went to the show and saw John Joseph, a comedian. We really enjoyed his show. He did “pick on” several people in the audience, and at the end of his act, he picked up his guitar and sang a little song about all the people he picked on. After the show, we stopped by the martini bar before heading to our stateroom.

Friday, March 25, 2022: We were up early and got room service breakfast because we have a Celebrity walking tour that stars at 8:30am. We are in Fredericksburg, St. Croix, USVI. Our guide is Robin, and she may not be as “brilliant” as our guide yesterday, but we enjoyed her tour much, much more than yesterday. Apparently her family has deep roots in St. Croix, but she was born in Brooklyn, NY and lived in California for 20+ years. She has been back and forth to St. Croix, but has lived here for the last 9 years. Walking down the long pier to exit the port area was a manned desk with local maps! We loved getting a map because we could not find a map in Puerto Plata even though we asked several times. We saw our first Moko Jumbie, which is a stilt Walker or dancer. Their stilts were about 10 feet tall! 

After passing out of the port area,  Robin pointed out a clock tower. The insides were made in the USA, and apparently were not made to withstand the salt sit. The clock works, but it never has the correct time.

St. Croix Clock tower with wrong time!

Robin then took us to the fort and explained the cistern, barracks, etc. There are several rooms and she gave us time on our own to explore. One room was dedicated to the Moko Jumbies, the men on very tall stilts. 

Moko Jumbies
Hard to read, but info on Moko Jumbies


There was a room devoted to the Taino Indians, who were the native people. There is a lot of Danish influence as the Danes were in St. Croix for many years. As we walked the streets, she pointed out several places of interest and spoke about the people who lived there and their influence on the island. There is an oil well, but it was deserted several years ago, and then restarted about a year ago. However, the equipment was old and not very up to the current technology, which resulted in a lot of pollution in Fredericksburg (The town where we are docked). The people in Fredericksburg complained so much, that the oil production shut down, and is currently not in operation. We stopped by a cultural building which currently has an art show with art from the local students. The lady in charge was very knowledgeable and told us about some of the youthful artists and their mentors. Upstairs, which we did not visit, was a woodworking shop where youth were being taught about woodworking. There are lots of chickens roaming around and one chicken wandered in the cultural building while we were there. 

Chicken

We walked uphill to one of the town cemeteries, passing the 4 main churches in town: Catholic, Lutheran, Anglican and I had not heard of the fourth one. These churches have been in St. Croix for many years, but recently they also have a synagogue and a mosque. She mentions there are Palestinians that have relocated here. One building that now houses the Governor, was originally the Danish school. I believe this school would have been active in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Even more interesting was the Danish school was in English! She pointed out several big, old trees such as a banyan tree and another tree that had an unusual fruit.

Banyan Tree also called Silk Tree

She pointed out a tree with termite trails – I hadn’t seen that before! Look close for black lines.

Termite trails heading up the tree

We walked up a hill in town to the cemetery where many of our guides ancestors are buried. She also pointed out her house which you could see, high up on a hill. She said the bottom level was a cistern, the first floor is an ArBNB and she and her husband live on the top floor. In the cemetery she pointed out graves that were covered in conch shells, without any other marker. Most of the graves were plots with a short cement wall and a plaque or headstone. She did not know how old the cemetery was. After visiting that cemetery, we walked past the Anglican Church and Anglican cemetery. She pointed out the stone bell tower on the Anglican Church which will withstand most storms. 

Anglican Church and Bell Tower

 The Anglican Cemetery had a sign with the date 1819. We saw several old structures that were being renovated, but there were several old structures that were in ruins. We walked back to King Street, which is the main drag and where carnival passes every December. Here our tour ended in a museum, which was more like an artists studio. Our guide had mentioned a vendor selling fruity beer that we would pass on our way back to the ship. So, of course we had to try the beer. A young lady was selling beer along the sidewalk – one beer was a heavier beer with lots of hops and the other beer was a lighter beer. I took the heavier one and Dave took the lighter one. The heavier beer had a very good flavor with a fruity taste. The lighter beer has less flavor, but Dave thought it was colder. We took the opportunity to sit on a bench in the shade and listen to a band in the grandstand playing island music, which included some Jimmy Buffett tunes. We wandered around the vendors and then walked back to the ship. We felt we enjoyed our tour today much more than San Juan. 

Caption not needed!

Back on the ship, we relaxed on our balcony and went to Blu for dinner. However we ordered off the main dining room menu. After dinner we went to a show in the theater. It was a singer, Lainie, and guitarist, Matt, and their show was “Legends of Guitar – A Tribute to the Greatest Guitarists of all Time”. We stayed for about 30 minutes, but just never got into the show. So we left and went to….the martini bar!

Saturday, March 26, 2022: we have a walking tour in St. John’s, Antigua today, “Legends and Lore of Antigua”. We met our guide on the port and she issued each of us a “Whisper System” set, which allows you to hear what the guide is saying, even if you are several feet away. Unfortunately, the guides speech was not clear so it was very hard to understand anything the guide was saying. The guide was wearing her headset around her neck instead of on her head, so we think the microphone was not positioned properly to hear her. Basically, I could not hear or understand anything she said, and Dave didn’t hear much better. The first place she took us was the market, which is an outside market, set up with dozens of vendors, selling various fruits and vegetables.  


Then we walked through the fish market. One lady was scaling fish. 

Lady scaling fish
Our guide with the yellow shirt, at the fish market

We walked some more and she pointed out various types of architecture, including the Methodist church. It was built of stone, but in a recent renovation it looked like they covered the stones with plaster and then painted it to look like bricks. We stopped for a bit and she showed us pictures of the local currency and local fruits. 

Then we walked to the Anglican Church which is very large. She said it would hold 2,000 people. But, it needed some serious repairs which were supposedly taking place. We wandered in the graveyard attached to the church and saw graves from the early 1700’s. While there, we saw one man sleeping on a stone slab covering a grave. She offered us a drink of fruit punch or rum punch while we were in the cemetery, too.

Anglican Church

Our next stop was a museum. It told some history of Antigua, sugar processing, and a statue of a popular sports figure. I enjoyed walking around the museum as the artifacts were well labeled. This display was about the first settlers to the island.

We left the museum and walked through the post office, where she pointed out Mail boxes that you could rent for $100 a year in order to get mail.

Finally, we walked thru a shopping area that was clean and obviously set up for tourists.

I was not happy with the tour, as I was expecting “Legends and Lore”, and I don’t think that is what the tour was about. I was only able to understand a very small amount of what she was talking about.

After our tour, we walked back to the ship. There are 3 cruise ships in Port with us today,  MSC Seaview, Enchanted Princess, and our ship, the Celebrity Millennium. There is also a British Navy Patrol boat.

HMS Medway

We were invited to the sail away on the helipad, on the front of the ship. Instead of the wine that they usually give you, they gave us Margaritas. Always a fun event – lots of people, but several officers and crew, too. I think it is a fairly shallow port as it seemed the ship stirred up a lot of sand as we left.

View of leaving port from the helipad

We went to hear some music in the Rendezvous Lounge before dinner, and then had dinner in Blu. We crashed early as the show in the theater didn’t sound that appealing. 

Sunday, March 27, 2022: We’re in St. Kitt and do not have a ships excursion today as we have been to St. Kitts before and it is a small island. I do like this island though. I found a self guided walking tour online and we are going to follow that. We had a leisurely breakfast and wandered off the ship about 10:00. Despite all the weather apps saying no rain, we ran into several showers and spent a lot of time ducking under awnings or stepping into covered doorways. 

Our first sight was The Old Treasury Building which is covered in scaffolding due to renovation. The Old Treasury Building also served as the Customs House. The write up said this domed building and it’s arches are a good reminder of just how rich sugar made the island. Unfortunately, due to the repairs, we did not take a picture. Our next stop was the Circus, which is a circular, open space with a small roundabout. In the center is a large green cast iron Berkeley Memorial Clock. It is a memorial to Thomas Berkeley, a former president of the Legislative Assembly. But the clock does not display the correct time.  

St. Kitts clock tower in the middle of the ”Circus”.

The next stop was Independence Square. Originally known as Pall Mall Square, it was built in 1790 for slave auctions and council meetings. It was renamed in 1983 to commemorate the independence of the island Federation of St. Kitts and Nevis from Great Britain. Nothing remains of its bleak origins. Instead, a large fountain decorates the center and the perimeters are bordered by old stone buildings and neat, aged, wooden structures painted in white and colorful pastels, all excellent examples of British Colonial architecture. 

Fountain

Bordering Independence Square is the Court House, Library and Church of the Immaculate Conception Catholic Church. We did peak inside the church as even though it is Sunday, the service is at 8:30am, and it is about 10:30, so no parishioners are visible. 

Catholic Church

After leaving the Catholic Church, we walked to another church, St. George’s Anglican Church. It is a large brownstone church located on an interesting and fiery religious battle site. According to the information I downloaded, it’s been destroyed so many times it’s difficult to tell whose side God ended up on, the French or the British. Originally, the French built the church “Notre Dame” here in 1670, which the British burned down in 1706. The British rebuilt 4 years later, naming their new Anglican structure after the patron Saint of England. However, a fire in 1763, an earthquake in 1843, a hurricane, then another fire in 1867 resulted in St. George’s being destroyed and rebuilt three more times. The current structure is the result of the last restoration in 1869. One other claim, that is a bit odd to me, is that the French Governor, Philippe de Longvilliers de Poincy, from 1639 until his death in 1660 is buried on the grounds. My confusion is he died in 1660 and the church was not built until 1670, 10 years later. There are several burial plots on the very expansive grounds. Most dates on the tombstones were unreadable, but we did see some from the early 1700’s. The photo is from the outside of the church, which appeared closed, so we could not enter. From the outside, the church looked to be in very good condition. 

St. George Anglican Church

Leaving this area, we passed the Methodist church, which seemed much smaller. We didn’t see a front door, although there was some music coming from inside. So we could not enter. 

This was the end of the walking tour I had printed out, so we headed back to the ship. Along the way, we passed the Government Headquarters and the public market – neither of which had any activity since it is Sunday. We notice most of the restaurants we passed were also closed on Sunday. Back on the ship, we headed to the sunset bar for some drinks – water and soda – and lunch. We will do some relaxing this afternoon, until the music starts up at sail away. Our captain has been pulling into port instead of backing in. Dave and I wish he would back in because we have a stateroom on the back of the ship, and if he backed in, we could see the town and watch sail away from our balcony. However, everyday they have been inviting people to the sail away on the helipad at the front of the ship. So if he backed it, the people on the helipad would not have as nice a view of the sail away. So, we go to the lounge on the front of the ship to watch sail away. Today, there is no bartender, so we left pretty quickly and went to one of the lounges to get a pre dinner drink and listen to music. We went to dinner a few minutes early because there was a vodka tasting event that I wanted to attend. Unfortunately, it was only one vodka, Belvedere Lemon I think. I tasted it and we moved on. We stopped in at Effy, the jewelry store, trying to negotiate a better price for a ring I want. We went to the show, and it was a soloist. He sang songs we didn’t know or didn’t like, so we left early and went to the martini bar to discuss purchasing the ring. We decided to go try on the ring, and ended up buying it. 

Monday, March 28, 2022: We are docked in Philipsburg, St. Maarten. There are 3 other boats in port with us – Aida Perla, Norwegian Epic, and a Seadream. We did an extensive tour the last time we were here, and I had printed out a little walking tour. Fortunately, we were able to pick up a nice map at the tourist information booth. Town is about a 15 minute walk, but you can take a land taxi or a water taxi. We elected to walk. There is a 30’ wide boardwalk along the water, and just a block in from the water is front street. We passed the Guavaberry store which was on my printout, but it was closed.  The Guavaberry store sold a flavored rum, and a sign on the door said to visit their store at the port. We will try to remember to do that. In the Guavaberry courtyard is a crossroads sign showing the distance to various places. We found it interesting that they show the distance to Evanston, Illinois instead of Chicago. 

Crossroads Signpost

In 1888, Roman Catholic Priest Father Nieuwenhaus passes away and donated two houses, a plot of land and $10,000 to the Dominican Nuns in the Netherlands, to open a school in St. Maarten. On June 2, 1890, the doors of the St. Joseph building were opened to children to attend school there. 132 children came to the new school. The school went into private hands in 1990, and in 2017 the buildings were damaged by Hurricane Irma. The current owners renovated the buildings in consideration of the historic nature of the buildings.

St. Joseph School building #1


St. Joseph School building #2

We passed another church and walked to the Court House. Built in 1793 as the home of Commander John Philips, the town’s founder, the building has served as a fire station, mail and post office over its long history and is one of St. Maarten’s most prominent landmarks. We were not allowed to enter – perhaps court was in session.  

Courthouse

The courthouse is on front street, so we walked over a block to the Philipsburg Boardwalk,  which runs along the water and beaches. The boardwalk is nearly 50 feet wide with all kinds of touristy places such as bars, restaurants, etc. I saw signs advertising 2 beach chairs, an umbrella and sometimes bathroom or drinks for $25. We passed a Methodist church from 1851.

Methodist Church

We also passed a Catholic Church with a plaque honoring St. Martin of Tours who lived 371 – 397! 

St. Martin


Many of the hotels along the beach looked pretty run down. 

We had been dodging rain the whole time we were off the ship, and had a pretty good rainstorm which delayed our return to the ship. It was a short walk from the pier area to town. We looked at several of the souvenir shops in the pier area and tasted Guavaberry which is a tasty rum. Back on the ship, we headed to the sunset bar and grabbed a late lunch and chilled out for awhile. We were suppose to have an early sailaway, so we went to trivia in the sky lounge to await sail away. An hour after we were suppose to leave the captain made an announcement that they were waiting for an ambulance. Apparently a passenger needed medical care that was not available on the ship. I am hoping it was not COVID, but no clarification was given. 

We have dinner reservations at a specialty restaurant, LePetite Chef. There is a set menu, and characters are projected on your table as the characters act out making each course of the meal.

Table cover is a projection onto your table that changes with each course

When the video is done, your food is placed in front of you. It is a 4 season, 4 course meal. The Petite chef meets his girlfriend in the Spring the first course, which was a cold pea soup. The petite chef and his girlfriend get married, build a house, and have kids in the Summer, second course, which was bow tie pasta with snow crab. The third corse has the children going off to what we assume was college, and the dish was a filet mignon. The last course was winter, and the children return with their spouses and the grandchildren and we were served a chocolate brownie with a scoop of ice cream. You were allowed to video the meal but I know it’s out on YouTube, so I just took one picture of the table which was white when we sat down, but a tablescape was projected on the table which also changed with the seasons. It was very cute and I enjoyed it. It was advertised as 3-D, and Dave has been moaning that it was 2-D and not 3-D, but I think he enjoyed it when we were eating dinner.

After dinner we went to the show in the theater which was “The Four C-notes”, a Four Seasons tribute band from Chicago. We enjoyed them very much. After “The Four C-notes”, we went to The Liars Club with the Captain, the cruise director and John Joseph (a very funny comedian). They are given a word and they give their definition. The audience claps to indicate who is telling the truth (the real definition) and who is lying. It is a really funny show. Then, time to grab our nightcap from the martini bar and go to bed.

Tuesday, March 29, 2022: We are done with all our port visits and we have two sea days before ending our cruise in Fort Lauderdale. The shops are having a sale, and we peruse the shops but don’t buy anything. Then a late morning wine tasting. We really don’t have much planned today, but will do some packing. We visited a bit with the future cruise representative, and spent some time trying to research a future cruise on Celebrity, but could not decide. We will just put down a deposit, which allows us to decide later. We were given some future cruise credits due to Dave complaining about the noise from the movies on the rooftop terrace, right over our head. We have a great stateroom and balcony on the back of the ship, but the balcony becomes unusable when a movie is being shown because it is so loud. In the evening after dinner, we went to the show in the theater, iBroadway. It was a production show with many show tunes. We enjoyed it very much. After the show, the cruise director, Alejandro, had a sit down with the captain. It was funny and cute. Captain Pierre served as staff captain under Captain Kate, the first female American cruise ship captain. They had some funny questions and answers. They showed pictures of the Captain, and his family, and pictures of Alejandro who is from Argentina. Captain Pierre is from Malta, but his wife is from Slovakia, so he lives in Slovakia now.

Wednesday, March 30, 2022: our last breakfast in Blu…we went back to the stateroom and packed pretty much everything we could. We ate lunch and went to the afternoon matinee in the theater. It was a rerun of 3 of the evening entertainers. The first up was Matt and Lainie who play Legends of Guitar classics  (Matt on guitar and Lainie sings and dances) and we did not like their first performance. The second was Marty Thomas, who told us his mentor was Glen Campbell. We enjoyed the Glen Campbell songs he sang, but again, did not enjoy the evening he performed in the theater. The last set was with the Four C Notes, and we really liked them at the matinee and the evening they performed in the theater. They’re a Four Seasons tribute band and just fun to watch. After dinner we went to the evening show in the theater which was an aerial acrobatic act. It was a young man and young woman from Ukraine. I think the fact they were from Ukraine made their act even more appealing. I was glad these two young people were not in Ukraine suffering from Putin’s war. They did a great job and we enjoyed their show. Of course we had to stop by the martini bar, and it was silent disco night which we love. Each person gets their own headset and it has 3 channels so you can pick the music you like, and switch back and forth if you want. 

Enjoying the silent disco

It was a fun evening and a great way to end our cruise. Our post party drinks….

Water!

Thursday, March 31, 2022: I think we had to be out of our stateroom by 8:00am, and we were ready by about 7:50. We ate breakfast in the main dining room (our only choices were main dining room or buffet) and finished just after it was our turn to disembark. We quickly found our luggage which had been off loaded during the night and walked to the facial recognition screens and to our car. The facial recognition screens are great and really speeds up going through customs – actually, there is no customs. No one asks what you brought back or what you bought anymore. Very quick and easy.

Regal Princess 1/22 – 27/ 2022

We booked this short 5 day cruise in May, 2021 with CRUCON for two reasons:

  1. At the time we booked this cruise, we were also booked for a world cruise starting in May, 2022. Before doing the world cruise, we needed 4 more days to get our Princess loyalty to the next benefit level, which would give us free laundry – a great benefit for a 107 day world cruise!
  2. We had cancelled a cruise during COVID before the cruise line cancelled it, and CRUCON charges a $50 per person cancellation fee, which can be applied to a future cruise and used as onboard credit.

Our world cruise was canceled in November, 2021, and we booked a 2021-2022 New Years cruise at the last minute giving us more than enough days to reach the top Princess loyalty level. So we really didn’t need this 5 day cruise. But we found our Ray & Celeste happened to have booked the same cruise, and it would an opportunity to try out our new Princess “elite” benefits, one of which is a stocked mini-fridge. When we booked the cruise, we went cheap, which was a mistake. We booked an obstructed balcony cabin, category “BW” #E424, which is the lowest category of balconies. Our view may have been obstructed by the lifeboats (aka tenders). Princess moved us to a “BD” stateroom, B628, because Princess is using the Obstructed Balcony cabins for isolating passengers that test positive for COVID while onboard. But we did also did not book the all inclusive package (Princess Plus). Trying to reach CRUCON to upgrade and correct the mistake has been a disaster. They have NO customer service. We will never book with them again. We may be able to upgrade once onboard.

Our itinerary is:

1/22/2022 11:30 AM Board Regal Princess in Fort Lauderdale

1/23/2022 At Sea

1/24/2022 Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos 8:00AM – 5:00PM

1/25/2022 Amber Cove, Dominican Republic 8:00AM – 5:00PM

1/26/2022 At Sea

1/27/2022 Disembark Ft. Lauderdale

1/20/2022: This morning, we decided to call Princess and see if there is any way we can upgrade. Princess is generally not able to talk to you if you’ve booked through a travel agent. Fortunately, there were notes on our file that we had been trying to upgrade, actually back to November. After long holds and explaining our problem more than once, we finally got to a reservation person. Again she told us Princess was unable to change our reservation, but she would try to help by contacting our travel agent. She was unable to reach the travel agent, also! So she got special permission to process our upgrade, and said she would notify the travel agent. She said she could see we were trying to do this for a long time. We were on the phone with Princess for 2.5 hours! After we got that straightened out, we did our COVID tests and they were negative! In the afternoon, Ray and Celeste came by to do their COVID-19 tests. Ray has a large phone and it would not fit in my tripod, so he used my phone to do the proctored test. In the middle of his test, my phone rang and it was CRUCON, the travel agent. Apparently they got the upgrade notice from Princess and finally decided to call me! I answered the call on my iPad since Ray was in the middle of his test. Basically I asked CRUCON what was going on with them. They said they thought things were getting better! I told them we were going to cruise, we were now happy with our stateroom and we were just going to enjoy the cruise. I was concerned with how much I was messing up Ray’s test and did not feel I had time to tell CRUCON what I really thought about them. We checked Rays test that he is suppose to be waiting 15 minutes for the results without touching the test. We noticed we’d lost the little video that we thought was monitoring the test, so we thought for sure the test proctor was going to tell us his test was invalid. But, nope! The proctor came on after 15 minutes, looked at the test via the web cam and said it was negative! Whew! Celeste took her test with no issue and she was negative also.

1/22/2022: We are driving to the port separately, because Ray and Celeste are planning to stay on board and do a back to back cruise. We had no issues driving, dropped our luggage and parked on level 4, orange. When we were boarding, our medallions were not working, apparently because we changed staterooms. They just asked for our passports, and then sent us to another desk where our new medallions were waiting for us. We turn around, and there’s Celeste! She tells us they won’t let her board because her passport is expired. They tried all different things including having someone go to their house, open their safe and dig out her birth certificate. Princess thought that might be acceptable. After about 3 hours of haggling and waiting, Princess tells them that the birth certificate is not acceptable for travel to the Dominican Republic, which is one of our 2 ports the ship will visit. Unfortunately, Ray and Celeste were not able to board. Dave and I are sick because we were looking forward to cruising with them. On the other hand, Princess took care of us, and upgraded us to club class. All this really means is we have a special dining room. The stateroom we are in is not normally club class, but I think Princess did this to make amends for the trouble we had with our travel agent. The stateroom we upgraded to is on the front of the ship. This is our view:

View from Regal Princess, M106

We have metal under the railing, where in regular balconies it would be glass. But our stateroom and balcony is bigger than a regular balcony. We wanted to be on the front on the ship as we had never cruised in a stateroom on the front before.

I have been trying to sign up for the Chef’s Table special dinner or the Winemakers Dinner. I tried on our New Years cruise, but it was already full. I signed up again as soon as we got onboard. They are not having a Chef’s table, but they are having the Winemakers Dinner. We’ll see if we get to attend.

I thought the club class upgrade was a mistake, but we went to lunch, they seated us in a special section, and we had upgraded napkins and tablecloth. They welcomed us to club class! So, I guess it’s for real!

We went to the Elite and Platinum happy hour, and had a couple nibbles and adult beverages. Then we went to the Wheelhouse Bar for a pre-dinner drink. We found out our favorite waitress, Junell (?), is now in the Vista Lounge, where we intend to go after dinner anyway. We have reservations for the Crown Grill, which was suppose to be Celeste’s birthday dinner. Dave had Sea Bass and I had Lamb Chops. Afterwards we went to the Vista Lounge to listen to a band, Project 5. We enjoyed their music, but it was a light crowd…maybe 20 people? When they finished, we went to the pool deck to watch San Francisco 49’s and Green Bay play. It was really nice to watch them on the big screen. I got cold before the end of the game, so we went back to our stateroom to finish watching there.

1/23/2022: Ray is still trying to work out the issues with Princess and hopes to make his next cruise 1/27/2022. We’ve been emailing, I’ve tried to help from the ship, but really not a lot I can do. Dave and I slept late. I have not been sleeping well the last month, and I think I made up for lost sleep!

Tonight is a dress up night. We had a light breakfast in the buffet and decided to walk on the walking track. We did 2 miles, which is 14 laps – a short track! Then we checked out the big screen in the daylight as the Tampa Bay Bucs are playing the LA Rams this afternoon. We went to a presentation on shore excursions, which was a waste of time. Several of the excursions they recommended were already full! We did find one we’re going to try in Amber Cove. We are planning to take a taxi into Cocktown at Grand Turk. We’ll see…We went to lunch in club class. After lunch, we went to customer service to ask our questions and hopefully resolve some of Ray’s issues. They gave me a business card, so at least I think I got a good list of contact info for him. Then we decided to check out to see if we can use our balcony while moving. We are on the front of the ship and we’re told we could not use the balcony when the ship was moving….but we could. It was really nice to sit out there. The balcony is oversized, and the metal front blocks some of the wind. We really enjoyed being able to use the balcony and chill for awhile. When the Bucs game came on, Dave decided he’d rather watch it in the room instead of the big screen by the pool. We tried to open one of our freebie Club Class wine bottles, but did not have a bottle opener! Had to call room service! The game was not going good, so I went down to happy hour and left Dave to his misery. The game was on in the happy hour lounge, but I didn’t think Dave would want to watch it in the happy hour lounge because there was no sound. Dave did come down, just as Tampa Bay was trying to turn it around, but it was too little, too late. The Bucs lost. ☹️

After happy hour, we went to our Club Class dining room. In club class we get extra menu items that are not on the menu – so I got escargot, but it was not the usual preparation – they were on little bread rounds. I also got lobster thermidore. Dave ordered off the menu and had a crab quiche for his appetizer and a beef dish for his entree. We caved in and not had bananas foster for dessert. After dinner, we went to hear the Project 5 band, but they weren’t as good as the previous night. We left a little before they finished and Dan Austin was playing the guitar in the Wheelhouse bar so we went to listen to him awhile. Only one show in the big theater tonight at 9:00PM,, and it’s a production show, “Bravo”. We saw the same show on the transatlantic cruise, but it is good. Basically just singing, but done by several different performers. After the theater we went to Crooners, the piano/martini bar. The piano player is Kevin Brando, and he is entertaining.

1/24/2022: We are in Grand Turk today. In the morning, we took a taxi to Cockburn town.

Taxi Fares

On the way to town we saw some of the wild donkeys and horses that roam free on Grand Turk. This is a small island with about 3000 residents. We went to the Turks and Caicos National Museum, for $5 per person, which is located in a two story house. There were several rooms with exhibits. A lot of space was dedicated to the Molasses Reef shipwreck, which some believe to be Christopher Columbus’ Pinta. However that claim is disputed. One room is dedicated to John Glenn who landed near Grand Turk in his space capsule. Another room was about salt production on the island, but ended in the 1960’s. We enjoyed walking through and seeing all the exhibits. When we finished we had a nice chat with the lady at the front desk. We asked about a lunch place and she indicated a place on the beach. We walked there, but it was closed. We decided to head towards the ship, and see if a taxi would come by to take us back. We didn’t see any taxis, so we walked all the way back to the ship which is suppose to be 3 miles, but we think it was a little longer. We saw several dogs laying in the shade, sleeping. Also saw another donkey and several horses.

Wild Donkey
Wild Donkey
Wild Horses showing us their good side 😁

We got back on the ship and had lunch. After lunch, we put on our bathing suits, got off the ship, and went to the beach that’s just in front of our ship. The water was “refreshing”…pretty cool getting in, but we got used to it after awhile. I was glad we broke down and finally got in the water! After the beach, we showered and went to happy hour and dinner. We plan to make it an early evening because we lose an hour tonight and we have an early excursion tomorrow. So we stopped at the Wheelhouse for a nightcap. While there, I got a FaceTime call from Lily and Mia! Because of the background noise on the ship – lots of things going on, I could not hear her very well, but it was nice to talk to her for a few minutes.

Grand Turk

Got a call from dining, and we did not make the cut for the Winemakers Dinner, and they had 2! I asked what was I suppose to do in order to be able to attend and of course there was no real answer. I think they felt sorry for me as they sent Dave and I a big bottle of wine with a note of apology! Dave said it’s a good wine!

1/25/2022: We lost an hour of sleep last night as our port today is Amber Cove, Dominican Republic and they are an hour ahead of us. We have scheduled a ships tour and we meet onshore about 8:20AM. We are going to Puerto Plata which means silver city.

Silver City

The bus drops us off in the main square and our guide tells us about a woman from Italy, named Bianca but they called her Blanco because she was white. She and her family operated one of the most famous hotels and was the best hotel in the country in the early 1900’s. She is remembered by the walkway and bench.

Bianca Franchescini De Rainieri

Then we walk to a storefront where there is a cigar rolling demonstration. Dave and I are a little bummed, because we are not interested in cigars, and picked this excursion because cigar rolling was not mentioned in the description, but was mentioned in other excursions. Anyway, we’re were told about the different tobaccos and they passed around tobacco leaves so we could feel them. An older gentleman demonstrated cigar rolling.

Making a cigar

We were able to try rolling a cigar if we wanted, but Dave and I weren’t interested. We went outside and watched the neighborhood cats.


After the cigars, we walked to the San Felipe Cathedral. It was built in 1956 over the ashes of an earlier 14th Century structure, burned down during the restoration war of 1863. After the first structure burned down, the works on the new church were started in 1870, then reconstructed in 1929 and completed in 1956.

Outside of San Felipe Cathedral
Inside San Felipe Cathedral

The Cathedral is on one side of Independence Square. So we were able to walk around the square to see the building that houses the Mayors office.

Mayor’s office building
View of mountains from street in front of Mayor’s office building

The office building is on one side of Independence Square. On the mountain is a Christ statue, but it is very hard to pick out from the above photo. Our guide spoke of the hero’s and their statues. Interesting that one statue of General George Luperon still has his nameplate, but the other statue, which looks like a white European guy, the nameplate is gone. So apparently some Dominicans must not think of him as a hero.

Independence Plaza with hero statues

We reboarded the bus and drove to Del Oro Chocolate Factory. We were given a demonstration on cocoa and making chocolate. Then we got to taste some chocolate butter spread, some cashew spread, and various piece of chocolate, ie milk chocolate, 55% chocolate, 60% chocolate, white chocolate, chocolate with rum, etc. Of course we were given the opportunity to buy some chocolate, which we did.

We had a scenic drive along the Malecon, which is the waterfront. We saw the statue of the King of the Sea on a small island.

King of the Sea

as our bus took us to the San Felipe Fortress which was built in 1564, to ward off pirates. The fortress which is on the waterfront is in a park like setting with lots of aggressive vendors and a lady with a donkey who would let you take your picture on the donkey…for a price, and a statue of the general on a horse.

San Felipe Fortress
General Gregorio Luperon
Lighthouse

After leaving the San Felipe Fortress, we drove to our lunch place. It was not the place described for our excursion. We thought we were going to a plantation with animals. This location had a garden with an art gallery and an 88 year old artist in residence. He had several drawings of the island, and a couple drawings of male nudes! Interesting! He said he was born here, so we assume on this property. There was a large garden with many plants, most of which we grow in Florida. Two interesting ones were a Cannonball Tree and Maraka Tree.

Cannonball Tree (non-edible)
Maraka Tree with gourd

People use the gourds from the Maraka tree for bowls. There is a koi pond on the property with many large koi, but apparently no blue herons.

We had a buffet for lunch with rice, chicken, chips, Chile, green salad, pasta salad, fruit salad and soda or water to drink. After lunch, we were given a sample of Dominican coffee and an opportunity to buy souvenirs from their gift shop.

We reboarded our bus and drove to the Macorix House of Rum for a rum tasting. First we walked through their storage room where the rum is aged in barrels from US bourbon factories. We watched a short movie about the original rum maker and moved to the rum tasting room. We tasted different rums: aged 4 years, 8 years, 9 years, spiced, coconut, apple and coconut water with rum. They gave us the samples so quickly it was really hard to judge the taste of each one. I bought a bottle of the coconut water with rum. It is more like a mixed drink, with more coconut water than rum. But, I liked it. Dave bought a small bottle of spiced rum.

Our tour was done and we were driven back to the ship. Dave did not turn in our alcohol purchases when we boarded the ship. You are suppose to turn over any alcohol purchased and then the ship returns it to you the evening before you disembark. Kind of a crazy rule for those of us with an alcohol package because any drink you want is included in your cruise price.

We went to the Captains Club party and found out there are 890 passengers onboard, and 102 elite passengers. This is our first sailing as Elite.

We went to dinner and I asked our waiter if we were going to have escargot this cruise, and he said he would try to order it special for our last night. After dinner, we went to the piano bar to listen to Kevin Brando again, and Dave has found out he likes milky way martinis.

1/26/22: Sea Day! After breakfast, Dave packed. Then we walked 3 miles on the walking track. Grabbed some lunch from the International Cafe, and took it back to the room. We showered to get ready for our Elite wine tasting. Dave is generally not big on wine tastings because he knows which wines he likes. we had a brut, Meiomi Chardonnay, two red wines and a sweet dessert wine. There were two presenters, and one was very funny with lots of jokes thrown in. So we did enjoy the wine tasting, if not for the wines, then for the entertainment value. Went back to the room to finish packing, and went to the Captains Club happy hour. We have enjoyed just relaxing and having a pre-dinner drink. Unfortunately, my drink tonight, Chairman of the Board, had too much gin, so it wasn’t very good. We went to dinner and our waiter had special ordered escargot for both of us! It was a nice treat, especially for our last night onboard. After dinner we went back to the martini bar to hear Kevin Brando. We chatted with him a bit and found out he got COVID during our New Years cruise and thats why there was so much shuffling of the entertainers.

1/27/2022: Disembarkation Day. We had our last breakfast in the Club Class dining room and headed off the ship. This port was using facial recognition, so you do not speak to a customs agent. You just look into a camera and then it tells you to go. My only gripe with this is you have to take off your mask, and they rush you along and don’t let you put your mask back on, but you’re in a government facility, so you’re suppose to have your mask on. We had to take a shuttle to the parking deck where our car was parked because the ship docked in a different spot than where it was when we left. It was a bit of a wait for the shuttle. We left the ship about 8:30AM, and were in our car by about 9:30AM, and a lot of that time was waiting for the shuttle. In the meantime, I am getting texts from Ray that they are in the passport office in Miami, and Celeste should have her new passport by noon. Later, about 1:30PM, they are on the ship! Bummed that we didn’t get to cruise together, but glad they got everything worked out and they are on the ship.

Regal Princess 12/29/2021 – 1/6/2022

12/27/2021 – With the current Omicron variant of COVID, Princess is requiring a negative COVID test 2 days before embarkation. We decided to drive to the Sarasota testing site to get a free test. You get what you pay for….We got there early, about 8:30 AM as it opens at 9:00AM. We were in row 13!!!! We had to wait 3 1/2 hours to get tested! The good news is we did get the results within an hour, and we were negative for COVID! This means we can pack tomorrow!

12/29/2021: This is is 8 day Caribbean cruise on Regal Princess. We are in stateroom M506

      12/29/2021 – Board at 11:30am

      12/30/2021 – Sea Day

      12/31/2021 – Sea Day

        1/1/2022   – Tortola, British Virgin Islands 8:00AM – 6:00 PM

        1/2/2022   – St. Kitts 8:00AM – 6:00 PM

        1/3/2022   – San Juan, Puerto Rico  7:00AM – 5:00PM

        1/4/2022   – Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos  12:00PM – 7:00PM

        1/5/2022   – Sea Day

        1/6/2022   – Ft. Lauderdale, disembark

So I am anxious to get on the ship early because I want to book reservations for the chef’s table. We got to Ft. Lauderdale about 10:30am, dropped our luggage, parked the car, showed our passports, vaccine card and negative COVID tests at least 3 times, and were on the ship by about 11:10am. Went to customer service to inquire about the chef’s table, and they don’t know if they’re doing it this cruise! Bummer! We had to soak up our sorrows at the bar on the back of the ship ☹️. Dave tried a taste test with couple of different Margaritas and I stuck to mojitos….until I switched to wine. Left port, still awaiting 1 of our luggage bags…. Yikes! The ship plays the Love Boat theme. Then, passing condos before heading out to sea, there are some people with a huge Princess flag and they played the Love Boat theme again for them. Cool! Still no luggage. Called the dining line and was told no chefs table this sailing. Asked about Wine Makers dinner and told it was already booked. I am not happy. Dave gets a call from customer relations that they have our luggage. Finally brought to us with a sticker on it the says “alcohol”. Really? We have the beverage package … why would we try to sneak alcohol aboard? Oh well, we finally have all our clothes 😁.

We had dinner and the evening entertainment did not look exciting. After dinner, went back to the bar on the back of the ship and enjoyed a few more adult beverages before heading to the stateroom. 

12/30/2021: Sea Day! Attended destination presentation which is a discussion on the ports we will be visiting. Went to our favorite new bar of the day on the back of the ship and just chilled. Princess uses a “medallion” app and you can order anything from anywhere and it will be delivered to where you are sitting. We sat there late morning, on the back of the ship, for over an hour, near the bar, and not one server approached us. I think the servers are only responding to orders from the app. Dave doesn’t agree with me, but we’ll see. He said we could have flagged someone down. That’s true, but it used to be the servers would approach you when you sat down. We were at the same bar yesterday and the servers did not approach us. I ordered from the app. After lunch we went to Trivia. We did not do well – only 7 out of 20 questions. In our defense, you can have a team up to 6 people, but our team is just 2….Dave and me. We went to the Captains Circle Happy Hour, and I had my first Chairman of the Board drink, which is unbelievably good considering it is a blend of Vodka and gin, and I think Cointreau. At dinner, we found one of the waiters we had on our November transatlantic – Attilla. He is a big, friendly guy with a loud voice! But we liked him, so glad we can ask for him at dinner time. We went to the evening show. The entertainment was a vocalist, who also played the trumpet, Dan Delgado. He was backed by the Princess orchestra, and despite our concerns, he was entertaining. After the show we went to the marriage game, which is always hilarious. It was held in Princess Live!, which is a smaller venue, and it was packed! Not a good situation with COVID-19. No social distancing! Of course, we wore our masks, but only about 95% of everyone else did. It’s always those 5%…… Tonight we lose one hour of sleep, turning our clocks forward one hour.

12/31/2021: Another sea day….spent a lot of time enjoying the ship and relaxing. Went to a presentation on the last two ports, ate lunch In the piazza, went to a quiz on destinations, which was actually a Princess advertisement, and a trivia. We did better in the trivia, but did not agree with the answer to one of the questions. Not that it mattered as far as our final score…. We went to the captains circle happy hour. While there, the captain announced we are not going to San Juan, Puerto Rico. We were not surprised based on what we heard before the cruise. Puerto Rico is requiring COVID testing before letting passengers disembark, and our ship is just not prepared to test 2200 passengers all at once.  The ship is going to St. Thomas instead. We will probably just wander around the St. Thomas port, having been there before. After our little happy hour, we went dinner, which was a little special…I had a lobster tail and Dave had Beef. Then we went to the martini bar, but the entertainer was not feeling well, so he didn’t show. We moved to the wheelhouse bar where the guitar player played. That was much better. We decided, based on Omicron, not to go to the main New Years  celebration around the pool…I know, we are wimps ☹️. Dave is talking about how we’d be home by now if we went to Flemings, which was our original plan. Unfortunately, we waited too long to book, so we could not get reservations at Flemings.  

We  retreated to our stateroom by 11:00 to privately celebrate the new year. The ship is decorated beautifully for the holidays. This is a picture of some of the gingerbread houses onboard:

Gingerbread Houses as part of Christmas Decorations

Happy New Year!

1/1/2022: This morning we are in Tortola. We have not been to this island before. It was one of the ports we were suppose to visit on our August Celebrity cruises, but was dropped from the itinerary. We went on a 3 1/2 hour excursion in a taxi.

The taxis have long seats for 4 people and ours had 5 rows. I’m sure during non COVID times lots more than 4 people sit on each long seat. The roads are windy with hairpin curves and lots of up and down the hills/mountains. 

Our Taxi

The first place we stopped was an African Church. Not many people got out, because they had trouble climbing in and out of the taxi. Dave and I were able to climb in and out.

Remaining structure of church
Remaining structure of Church

I found it interesting they used molasses as a binder.

After checking out the church, we drove some more, eventually we will drive around the whole island. Our driver is a bit hard to understand, but he points out local spots like the post office, community center, police station, resorts, restaurants, grocery stores, etc. He stops in a couple of overlooks to give us photo opportunities of the neighboring islands and the beautiful sea.  

Our ship is in this one.

We stopped briefly at Cane Garden Bay and were offered water or fruit punch. There is a beach here, and I think pre-COVID, probably some shops. Of course, today is New Years Day, and maybe most places are closed because of that. There was a bar open, and bathrooms, but otherwise the main attraction was the beach. We drove some more and made another stop at Pusser’s Landing. Most of the shops were closed, but there was a restaurant, a clothing store and grocery store open. Pusser’s Landing is in Soper Hole which is home to a marina. I imagine the grocery store is for stocking up boats. I saw a few people from the marina taking advantage of the public showers. After our visit to Pusser’s Landing, we drove back to the ship. It was a scenic drive with lots of beautiful long views. 

We got back to the ship around lunchtime and decided to try Alfredo’s Pizza, which is one of the included restaurants. It was pretty busy at lunchtime. Dave and I both ordered pizzas, as they are 12”, thin crust, personal pizzas. There are chefs making the pizzas from scratch, and you can watch them. We thought the pizzas were OK, but certainly not the best we ever had. After lunch we walked around the port area, but again, very few places were open. 

Tonight we have dinner reservations for the Crown Grill, a specialty restaurant. We went to the Wheelhouse Bar before dinner to hear Dan Austin, a guitarist we like, but his schedule had been changed. I think one of the entertainers got COVID, so they are switching things around. We had a good meal in Crown Grill – I had lamb chops and Dave had Sea Bass. We tried to get another reservation for another night, but the Crown Grill was fully booked. We finished dinner late, missed the shows, so just went back to our stateroom.

View of Tortola from our stateroom

1/2/2022: Today we are in St. Kitts and have booked a ships excursion. Our guide is Jaja and his vehicle is GT77. It is a 3 hour tour, and Jaja is a great guide and driver. He gives us a running commentary on St. Kitts, he was easy to understand, and very entertaining. He paused along the road in several spots to point out highlights. He pointed out petroglyphs, which was a fertility symbol; St. George’s Anglican Church which was originally built in 1670, then burned by the British in 1706 and rebuilt 4 years later and has subsequently suffered a fire, earthquake and hurricanes, and was again rebuilt in 1869. He pointed out Bloody Point and Bloody River which is where British and French forces came together to massacre over 2000 native Carib Indians causing the river to flow with blood for 4 days. Jaja pointed out the extinct volcano, Mt. Liamuiga, which created the island as a result of the lava flows, centuries ago. There are hikes that go up the volcano, and you can go down into the crater which is 1000 feet deep and 1 mile wide, with a small fresh water lake at the bottom. But that volcano hike is not part of our tour today….or probably any day!

Petroglyphs
Petroglyphs- a pregnant woman and a man
St. George Anglican Church
St. George Anglican Church


Our first real stop was Romney Manor. This land was originally claimed by Samuel Jefferson II, the 3rd great grandfather of US President Thomas Jefferson. Samuel Jefferson later sold part of the estate to the Earl of Romney. Our guide told us the Earl of Romney travelled a lot and brought back exotic plants which he planted on his estate. Today, the gardens are a beautiful setting with lots of plants.There is a bell tower still standing which was used to tell slaves when they were to go to work or when the work was done. Most bell towers have been destroyed because of their symbolism, but Mr. Romney was a benevolent owner, so this bell tower is probably the last bell tower still standing. The original manor house has been partially restored, and now houses Caribelle Batik. These are artisans who create designs by hand, on fabric using a wax and dye process known as batik. Of course there is a gift shop when you can buy their products. 

Bell tower in the background.
and unfortunately I’m in the foreground.


Our second and last stop was The Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park. The first cannon were mounted on Brimstone Hill in 1690 by the British in an attempt to recapture Fort Charles on the coat from French occupation. The fortress was designed by British Army Engineers and built by African slaves. The British and French alternatively fought and regained control of the fortress over the years. The fortress was a abandoned in 1852. The Society for the restoration of Brimstone Hill was formed in 1965, and in 1973, HRH Prince Charles reopened the first restoration. In 1985, Queen Elizabeth signified Brimstone Hill Fortress as a National Park, affirmed by legislation in 1987. The Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. 

Brimstone Hill Fort
View from top of Fort

Upon returning to the ship, we walked around the port area when there are shops. Many shops are shuttered, and I don’t know if that’s because today is Sunday or because many shops have not reopened due to COVID. Our guide, Jaja said that pre COVID, St. Kitts would get as many as 17 ships a week. He said now they get about 12, and today they were suppose to have 3, but one had to cancel because it had too many COVID cases onboard ( more than 1%). However, the second ship must have been turned away, as the only ship in the port was our ship. Jaja also said all the shops in town would be closed today because it is Sunday. St. Kitts has a VAT tax of 17%, because they do not have an income tax. However, the stores in the port area are exempt from charging VAT tax. We debated getting a Carib beer, local beer brewed in St. Kitts, but decided to go back to the ship instead.

After dinner, we went to the show, which was a two person act “Five O’Clock Somewhere”, a man playing guitar, and a woman playing keyboard and piano. Mostly music, but she did sing “Hallelujah “. We enjoyed their show.

View of St. Kitts from our stateroom

1/3/2022: Today we are in port at St. Thomas, which is the port that was substituted for San Juan. We docked at the Haverhill port – St. Thomas has two ports for big ships. We did not book an excursion, and we have been her a couple of times in the past. Our plan was to possibly take the sky ride to “Paradise Point” where they serve a rum drink, Bushwacker”. We took our time getting off the ship, and started walking around. I told Dave I did not see the point in spending $25 each to take the 7 minute sky ride just to get an alcoholic beverage. He did not argue. So we wandered around, and walked through the shops in the port area. There are many shops that are not open and probably won’t reopen due to no tourism for 18+ months. We spotted a huge mast and I could not believe it was on a ship, but it was! It was very unusual and not the typical yacht. 

Picture of big yacht, and second picture comparing it to our ship.


While wandering thru the port area, we saw many other large yachts, and it just makes you wonder who owns these things. 

Dave remembered where a grocery store was from a previous trip, so we went there looking for Pringle’s for Dave. They only had “Pizza” flavor, so Dave bought some Lay’s Stax, which must be a competitor to Pringles. I hope he likes them. We walked back towards the ship, and it is a beautiful day. We stopped at an outside bar to sit and enjoy the view. We finally get a Carib beer, which is suppose to be a Caribbean beer. Looking at the label, it was brewed and bottled in Cape Canaveral, Florida. The all aboard time is 2:30PM, which is early. But we decided to go back to the ship and have lunch at the international cafe. Then we looked for a place to sit outside, but all our favorite places were already taken, and it was very hot in the pool area, so we decided to sit on our balcony. 

View of St. Thomas from our stateroom with Skyride going up the mountain

Today our side of the ship is facing the port, and sure enough, we got to enjoy some port runners who were late for the ship.

The captain was tooting  the horn, I think giving notice that the ship was ready to leave. This is unusual, because he usually plays the Love Boat theme as we are leaving.Then we found out people were missing and not back onboard, so the horn was for their benefit. Two couples were very late and didn’t get to the ship until 3:10, and the ship was suppose to leave at 3:00. The captain made a couple of announcements about them – first at about 2:50 saying 2 couples were not onboard and he would only wait until 3:00. Then about 3:00 he made another announcement that they had found them and they were 10 minutes away, so he waited for them. Everybody onboard was hooting and hollering at them as they came within site and were running for the ship. I am a bit surprised they waited so long, but probably St. Thomas did not want to deal with getting them back to the states with COVID raging. 

Tonight is formal night, our last formal night thank goodness. I’m not getting super dressed up, just wearing a long black dress. Finally had escargot for my dinner appetizer. After dinner we went to the show, which was a split show. The first half was a comedian, and the second half was two magicians. After the show we went to crooners martini bar to listen to Dan Austin, the guitarist.

We gain an hour tonight….an extra hour of sleep!

1/4/2022: our arrival at Grand Turk is scheduled for noon, but we actually arrive about 11:00am. It was very interesting to watch the captain maneuver the ship along side the dock.

Regal Princess approaching dock in Grand Turk

Made me feel really bad about the way I maneuver crew boats into our beach at Indian Mound Park. There is one long dock, and the Holland America Rotterdam was already alongside the dock on the north side. It looked like we were heading right for the Rotterdam, but the captain glided right along side the dock on the south side. The dock is about 25 or 30 feet wide, and these are big ships. It was really amazing to watch. 

Then the captains signaled each other with their horns, with ours playing the Love Boat theme with his horn. I have to admit, that is a cool feature on the Princess ships. Carnival Corporation built the dock, and the adjacent village, which houses the worlds largest Margaritaville. Since the dock will only hold 2 ships, they had a full house today and most of the shops were open to the captive audience of the Regal Princess and the Rotterdam. Right as you walk off the dock, there is a huge beach, which also happens to be right in front of Margaritaville. Dave and I are not beach people, so we decided we’d have lunch at Margaritaville. We both had burgers and Margaritas. The island charges a 12% tax and Margaritaville charges a 15% service fee, so our bill was about $61. Kinda funny that all these people, including us, that can eat free on their respective ships decide to pay inflated prices at Margaritaville. We wandered around all the shops, but we don’t need any more souvenirs, so we just wander and look. The jewelry stores everywhere are more aggressive, trying to get you to try on jewelry, but I just want to look, so it’s frustrating. I end up not even looking because I can’t deal with the sales people, so there’s no chance I’ll see something I like because I can’t just look. We got back to the ship fairly early and we’re able to snag two seats at the back of the ship. We watched the Rotterdam leave, and the captains had another battle of the horn with our ship playing the Love Boat theme, and the Rotterdam just tooting. We watched a beautiful sunset. After the Rotterdam left, I got a picture of the beach, and Margaritaville, at the end of the pier: 

Margaritaville and beach at Grand Turk

Amazing how close the beach is to the ships!

Trying to show how close the beach is to where our ship is docked.
Makes me look tiny!

1/5/2022: Today is a sea day as we head back to Ft. Lauderdale. We packed, spent some time lounging in the pool area, and packed. I gave in to my craving for a frozen Margarita and it was delicious! But as a result, I wasn’t ready to eat at our reserved time, so I changed our dinner reservation to a later time. After dinner we went back to our room, and found our room steward took it upon himself to move all our bathroom items from the shelves to the countertop so he could clean the shelves in preparation for the next occupants. Dave and I were pissed! During this time of COVID-19, we did not appreciate him touching our stuff – even our toothbrushes! Dave called Customer Service and complained. Then Dave opened the door to our stateroom and happened to run into the room steward. Dave let him know we were not happy with him. When I did the post-cruise survey, I also stated how unhappy we were that he would touch our personal items. Disappointing way to end our cruise.

1/6/3022: Disembarkation was easy and quick. We got up about 7:00am, showered, went to breakfast at 8:00, and left the ship about 8:45. We were in our car and on the long drive home before 9:15. 

Transatlantic November 3-17, 2021

Getting ready for our Transatlantic:

Getting ready for this cruise was a real pain in the ass. First, we thought this would be our first cruise post-pandemic. But, we saw several great cruise start up deals, and so this is actually our fourth cruise at the (hopefully) ending of the pandemic. For many months prior, we were unsure if the cruise would be cancelled. In addition, we had to comply with the United Kingdom’s (UK) entry requirements which changed many times during 2021. We booked flights on United, and had to comply with their requirements, and schedule changes. A lot of the documentation could not be finalized until 48 hours prior to entering the UK. Requirements eased somewhat in October, with the UK required test changing from a PCR to Lateral Flow test, which is less expensive. So, the terms we are traveling under for the UK is buying and paying for a day 2 lateral flow test which is to be taken on or before day 2 in the UK, and the arrival day is day 0. We will be leaving the UK on day 1. Not sure if we will take the UK test or not. This test has to be purchased from an approved UK provider, so we had to find a provider that would mail the tests to our hotel, which we did, at a cost of about $50. After purchasing the tests, the seller emails you a number which has to be entered on the UK’s required “passenger locator form” (PLF) which cannot be completed more than 48 hours before arrival in the UK. Then, we have to complete United Airlines travel ready forms, giving the information from the PLF, uploading a copy of our vaccination card as well as the usual passport information. We completed all of that on Sunday, October 31 in preparation of our November 1 flight that arrives in the UK on November 2. Princess sends us a very confusing email implying we have to take a COVID test 48 hours before embarking. In addition, Princess is testing everyone at the port. So the email says one thing, but if you go to the Princess website, it does not require a COVID test 48 hours per boarding, just the test at the terminal. Until we are on the ship, the anxiety over whether we have done everything is still there.

Itinerary:

11/1 – 2/21 Fly from Ft. Lauderdale to Southampton, England

11/3/21 Board Regal Princess

11/4 – 5/21 Cherbourg, France

11/6/21 At Sea

11/7/21 Vigo, Spain

11/8 – 9/21 At Sea

11/10/21 Ponta Delgada, Azores, Portugal

11/11 – 11/16/21 At Sea

11/17/21 Disembark Ft. Lauderdale

We have heard that the ship is not stopping in Bermuda because of “congestion”. What makes this interesting is the ship is registered in Hamilton, Bermuda. We find out our itinerary has changed, with an overnight in Cherbourg, France on November 4 to 5. Our other ports have been pushed back a day, so we’ll be in Vigo, Spain on November 7, and Ponta Delgado, Azores, Portugal on November 10. One thing we have learned in cruising in COVID times, is to be flexible and nothing is written in stone.

November 1, 2021: We got up early, ran a few errands, and left very early at 11:25AM  for our 3 hour drive to Fort Lauderdale to catch our 6:15PM flight. We are flying from Fort Lauderdale to Washington Dulles, with a couple hours layover before flying from Washington Dulles to London. We took our time driving, stopping to get something to eat and top off the gas tank, but arrived in Fort Lauderdale about 3:00. Google maps was crazy, and kept changing our route. Finally we decided to just follow the road signs to get us to the airport. 

The United  person checking us in checked all our documents, asked for the PLF, but really was not familiar with the UK requirements regarding testing. The UK does not require a COVID test to enter the UK if you are fully vaccinated, which we are. So I pointed to the section that states US vaccinated don’t need to be tested before entering the UK,  she prints our boarding passes, we check our bags, and prepare to wait for our flight. Dave has passes to the United Club, but we decide to use them when we get to Dulles. The flight is full and they are looking for volunteers! The entertainment set up is poor – the controls are on the armrest and we keep changing stations each time we use the arm rest, which is often. I gave up and played games on my iPad. It seemed like a longer than 2 hour flight ☹️.

Waiting for our next flight, the time has flown by. As I sit here in the United Club at Dulles, drinking wine, I think it was a good decision to save our passes and use them here at Dulles. We boarded, and Dave has got us United premium plus tickets, which I think was the old business class. There is a first class section on the plane, and those seats are like cubicles, so you can actually lay flat. Our seats do not lay flat, but we have more room than economy, and we get better drinks and food (although Dave would disagree on the food). I ordered fried chicken, and it was actually chunks of chicken in pasta. Dave got a ravioli pasta, which he did not speak highly about. We watched a movie and I actually got some good rest for a few hours (it was a 7 hour overnight flight). 

November 2, 2021:  Before landing, we were given a breakfast of an egg sandwich and yogurt. It is a long walk after getting off the plane to go through passport control. Dave made it through on his first try. In my case, I almost had to wait in another line because my passport was not being accepted. It is just a machine, and you put in your passport. It compares your passport picture to your real life image, and mine kept getting rejected. I was told to go stand in another line, but Dave flagged the monitor and she let me try again, and again! Finally, it accepted me and we were able to move on. We got our luggage, which had been set aside by this time because it took us so long. We walked through customs which is literally walking through. There is a sign to go one direction if you have something to declare, and another hallway to pass through if you have nothing to declare. Finally, we are out into the main area of the terminal, and after some looking, we find our driver which we had prearranged through a company called Smith’s. He was a very nice man, driving a Ford Galaxy, which is actually similar to a small SUV in the states. Ford does not sell this model in the US. The driver chatted with us for our two hour drive to Southampton. 

The hotel, Ennio’s, is in an old building, and I think there are only 5 rooms. Apparently it was not damaged with the bombing in WWII. We arrived around 1:00, and normal checking time is 3:00, but they told us our room would be ready in about 10 minutes. We had great plans to go outside, walk around the city and explore. But we hit the room and put our feet up and chilled for about 3 hours. We napped a little, but mostly just watched TV and rested. About 4:00, we decided to go out and walk a little bit before dinner. It is nippy outside. We are very close to the cruise ship port and saw where we will be going tomorrow. We saw some plaques honoring Jane Austin, and we walked through a little park. Then we headed back to the hotel, as it was a bit chillier than we were dressed for. We have plans to meet up with some people from cruise critic for dinner at 6:00, but I told Dave that I wouldn’t be surprised if we were the only ones that show up. We rested in the room until 5:45, and then took a 5 minute walk to the Duke of Wellington Pub, which we found out is 801 years old.

Duke of Wellington Pub

There were another group of cruiser from our ship there, and we chatted with them for a bit. Unfortunately, as I suspected, none of the cruise critic people showed up, except Dave and me. We had a decent pub dinner. I had cod, peas and chips (French fries), and Dave had shrimp scampi which was not like scampi we get in the states. His shrimp were breaded and fried, and he got chips and peas as well. Dave drank a Chardonnay, and I drank Swordfish beer, which is a dark beer.

Swordfish Beer

After dinner, we came back to our hotel, had some sambucca, and went to bed!

November 3, 2021:  Woke up in Southampton to 32 degrees! Brrrrrrr! We had a nice breakfast at the hotel, and took a taxi to the port, which was less than a mile away. We dropped our luggage and got in line to wait to get our COVID test. After the test, you wait some more for the results. From the time the taxi dropped us off to actually boarding the ship was an hour and forty minutes….a long time to just be in line or waiting. As we checked in, we were asked if we had our French vaccination certificate. We did, but only because I had seen it discussed on cruise critic.

View of Southampton from our stateroom. Our hotel is to the right of tower in back of building with all the white windows

Once onboard, it was time to eat (seems like always time to eat or drink on a ship!), and we got a sandwich from the International Cafe. The International Cafe is one of our favorite places on Princess ships. We are noticing some differences between Princess and Celebrity, which we liked better on Celebrity. Embarkation was much quicker, no masks required, buffet was easier to navigate, no place to put your drink in the theatre (you had to hold it), escargot is not offered every night at dinner, etc. We basically explored the ship in the afternoon, listened to a piano player in the piazza, went to dinner in the evening, watched a “yes or no” game show, and went to see a comedian in the theater in the evening. We lose an hour tonight sailing to France, so we went to bed fairly early. 

Regal Princess 3 story Piazza (or Atrium)
Our stateroom

November 4, 2021:  We ordered room service for breakfast as we have an early tour, meeting at 7:30am. We were running a little late, but Dave knew we weren’t docked yet. We got to our meeting place on the ship, and the crew told us to wait in a lounge for an announcement as the ship had not docked yet. After about 20 minutes, the captain announced he was unable to dock because of high winds, and he may not be able to dock until noontime. Since we lost an hour of sleep, we went back to our stateroom to rest. 

About 10:00am we get a message that we are going to dock, and we are to meet for our excursion at 10:35! This is really good news. Our excursion goes to Mont Saint Michel which has been on Dave’s bucket list forever.  Mont Saint Michel is in the English Channel, and in ancient times, could only be reached when the tides were low. 

Our tour didn’t start until about 11:30. It is a 2 hour bus ride. Finally we could see the abbey in the distance. It is huge, built on a rock, with mud flats all around (the tide was out). Our bus has to park quite a distance away – maybe 2 miles – and then we catch a shuttle to get us closer to the abbey, which drives on a bridge built above where the high tides would otherwise flood access. After getting off the shuttle, we still have quite a distance to walk to get to what used to be a little village which is at the bottom of the abbey.  Now, all the houses have been turned into shops and restaurants. It is very quaint looking, but actually a tourist trap now. You walk through the village on an incline, and then start climbing stairs to get to the top of the abbey. There are lots of stairs to climb – I think I read about 285 stairs. Inside, it has all been built of stones, over several centuries. There are many very large rooms, a cloister, a writing room, as well as the church and rooms for the current monks living there. I believe our guide told us there are 9 monks currently residing there and it is a mix of men and women. Because of our late start, our guide moved pretty quickly, but the tour itself, including the climb, took about 2 1/2 hours. We were suppose to have an hour of free time to get lunch and visit the shops, but because of the late start, we were only able to grab a sandwich on the run which we ate while waiting for the shuttle to take us to the bus parking lot. Dave and I walked ahead of our group and caught an earlier shuttle so we could visit the bathrooms. As we were leaving, one lady who had a cane, but was from our bus, was walking toward the bathrooms. In my mind, I thought she was going to be late to get to the bus. Sure enough, she never made it. I’m afraid she got separated and lost. We were all on the bus except one person. The lady obviously had trouble walking, and was traveling alone. Our guide left the bus twice and tried to find her, with no success. I’ve been worried about her and kinda blame the guide as I felt she was rushing us a bit. We didn’t leave the abbey until after 5:30pm, and got back to the ship about 7:45pm. A long day, lots of climbing, and worried about the lady ☹️.

From the historical site brochure:  The long history of Mont Saint Michel is thought to date back to 708AD when Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, had a sanctuary built on Mont Tombe in honor of the archangel. The Mount soon became a major focus of pilgrimage. In the 10th century, the Benedictines settled the abbey, while a village grew up beneath its walls. By the 14th century, it extended as far as the foot of the rock. An impregnable stronghold during the Hundred Years’ War, Mont Saint Michel is also an example of military architecture. It’s ramparts and fortifications resisted all the English assaults, and as a result the Mount became a symbol of national identity. 

Following the dissolution of the religious community during the revolution and until 1863 the Abby was used as a prison.  Classified as a historical monument in 1874, it underwent major restoration work. Since then, work has gone on regularly all over the site. The result is that visitors can now experience the splendor of the abbey that people of the Middle Ages regarded as a representation of the heavenly Jerusalem on earth, an image of Paradise. 

Mont Saint Michel has been listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO since 1979. 

The abbey of Mont Saint Michel is a unique building: it’s plan is unlike that of any other monastery. Constrained by the pyramidal shape of the Mount, it’s medieval builders wrapped the buildings around the granite rock. The abbey church, situated at the top, sits on crypts that create a platform designed to take the weight of a church 80 meters long.

The building known as the Merveille, often regarded as the jewel of the abbey’s architecture, is is evidence of the architectural  artery of its 13th century builders who succeeded in perching two blocks of 3-story buildings on a steep, rocky slope.  This required very precise technical calculations. On the ground floor, a narrow side aisle of the sellae acts as a buttress. Above that the supports of the first two storers of the western building are stacked on top of one another. Finally, the structures became progressively lighter toward the top. On the outside, the building is supported by powerful buttresses. The layout and architecture of the building is influenced by guiding principles of monastic life. The rule of Saint Benedict, observed by the monks of the Mount, dictated that their days be devoted to prayer and work, so the rooms were organized around these two activities, and the space reserved exclusively for the monks to respect the principle of an enclosed order. Again, faithful to this principle, the rooms set aside to receive the laity were put on the ground floor and first floor of Merveille. The construction of the abbey of Mont Saint Michel therefore confirmed to two major imperatives: the requirements of monastic Lire and the constraints of topography.

The worship of Saint Michel:  Saint Michel, head of the heavenly militia, was of great importance to Medieval religious sensibility. In the New Testament, Saint Michel appears in the book of Revelation: he fights and defeats a dragon, symbol of the devil. To medieval man living in expectation and dread of the hereafter, Saint Michel was the one who led away the dead and put their souls in the balance on the day of the last judgement. Very widespread in the East from the 4th century, the worship of Saint Michel only appeared in the West in the late 5th century with the building of the first sanctuary at Monte Gargano (Italy) in 492. Around the year 1000, churches and chapels dedicated to the Saint proliferated all over Europe, often on the top of hills or promontories. After the Hundred Years War, devotion to Saint Michel took on a special dimension q because of the resistance of the Mount against the English. Finally, this worship expanded rapidly with the Counter-Reformation, for in the eyes of the church, it was only the warlike angel who could fight against the Protestant heresy. In Christian iconography, Saint Michael is often depicted holding a sword and a set of scales. Popular traditions and cults have made Saint Michel the patron saint of knights and of all guilds associated with arms and scales. The statue that stands on top of the belfry has the traditional attributes of the archangel. It was made in 1897 by the sculpture Emmanuel Fremiet and commissioned by the architect Victor Petigrand who wanted to see the new 32-meter steeple suitable crowned. The statue was restored in 1987.

We climbed almost to the top of the Abbey – just not the tower at the very top.

Mont Saint Michel
Walkway through village at foot of Abbey
Saint Michel’s sword
One of many rooms inside Abbey

We were able to go to dinner late, about 8:15pm. After dinner, we stopped by Vines, the wine bar, for a nightcap. It’s in the atrium, so we were able to enjoy the music in the atrium before heading to bed. 

November 5, 2021: The ship stayed overnight at the port in Cherbourg, France, giving us a 2 day visit at this port. The extra day is a replacement for not going to Bermuda. Our plans were to walk around Cherbourg independently, but when we get up, it is only 48 degrees, windy and overcast. Too cold for us to get off the ship. So we went to a trivia game, a pyramid game, and the theatre to see AJ Clarke. He is a talented vocalist and pianist, and was entertaining. We also spent some time in the Wheelhouse Bar listening to a pianist and a nightcap in Crooners Martini Bar listening to a guy playing the guitar. In the martini bar, Dave gave the waiter the ingredients for a Black Forest martini. It wasn’t quite the same as Celebrity’s, but Dave liked it.

November 6, 2021: Sea Day! Not much to do but relax. We found out a few days ago that our world cruise next May, 2022 was cancelled. We spent a lot of the day checking other cruises to see what May be available if we take Princess’ offer of bonus Future Cruise Credit of 110% of what we have paid to date, or if we should just get a refund. We decide there will be cruises we want to take, so we are going to apply for the 110% bonus future cruise credit. We also found out that the shore excursions gave us a 30% credit on our Mont Saint Michel excursion because of the shortened time we were allowed. We also found out we are each getting a $100 credit because we will have extremely limited internet from here on until we get home. So I will probably have to finish my blog from home. This evening was a production show in the Theatre, Bravo. These are always very entertaining. This one did not really have a story, but beautiful costumes, dancing and singing. After the theatre, we went to Crooners martini bar for a nightcap, and to listen to AJ Clark, the talented pianist and vocalist, who will be playing most evenings in Crooners.

November 7, 2021:  We have an excursion today in Vigo, Spain, “Gourmet Galicia”. We are so happy that we don’t have to meet until 10:10am for this excursion, which gives us plenty of time for breakfast and a little relaxation after breakfast. We have a little walk when we get off the ship to a catamaran. A bit cool for a ride on a catamaran- who expected it to be in the 40’s!!! The local guides keep telling us what a beautiful day it is – and today it is nice that we have bright sun. But it is still cold. Amazingly, Dave and I are bundled up enough that we sit on the top of the catamaran, out in the open for most of the ride. Our guide points out local landmarks and talks about the region. He shows us beds where muscles are grown, points out what was a Citroen factory (I think it’s Chrysler now), and says they’ve also build Peugeot and Toyota.

Mussel beds

They used to fish for whales, but that industry was forbidden, I think in the 1980’s. But fishing is still a big industry here. We cruise around the Bay of Vigo and he points out towns along the way. It is very scenic, and while it is not crowded today, in November, I imagine there are many tourists here in the warmer summer months. There are several beaches, but not any people on the beaches today (especially with the temperatures under 50 degrees). We do see a couple of rowers. One of the boats has 10, yes, 10 rowers, which I have never seen before! It is about 11:00am, and the water is a bit rough. Dave spotted a boat with 2 rowers, but I never got a good look at them.

I think there are 10 rowers, and 2 holding balance. The coach is in the motorboat.

We are served some appetizers on the boat: white local wine, Albariño, which is very good, bread, a meat “pie”, and muscles. After about 1.5 hours, we reach our destination, Bayona (Baiona), another cute town on the bay. We did a little walking tour on the town and our guide told us the “Pinta” vessel, of Christopher Columbus fame, docked here in 1493 in  Bayona after visiting the Americas. He showed us the spot where the boat tied up to a big rock, and the well where it took on water. We visited a little chapel, which I believe was built in the 1500’s. We were on the main level and we looked up to see two nuns watching from the second level. It sounded like a service was being piped in, but we did not see any other worshipers. We proceeded to walk up to the Parador Conde de Gondomar, a medieval fortress, and to the adjacent hotel for our gourmet 3 course lunch. 

Menu for our gourmet lunch

We had to choose our entree, and Dave and I both chose the Galician fish stew “Caldeirada”. I thought it was very good, but Dave’s fish had a lot of bones. Other people at our table had the pork loin, which looked very good, and the people choosing that entree said it was very good. We were stuffed after eating. They were generous with the wine and we had several refills. After lunch, we headed back to the catamaran. Our guide did not eat, but did partake of the wine. On the ride back to the ship, he rambled on quite a bit! 

Overall, it was a very pleasant day, and I really enjoyed the tour. I felt Vigo and Bayone were really neat towns, and I would have loved to spent more time in both of them.

We have two sea days ahead of us before our last port in the Azores, Ponta Delgada.

November 8, 2021: Today is the first of 2 sea days before we reach the Azores. We are scheduled to get a rapid COVID test this morning at 8:00am, so we could not sleep in. But we  gained an hour last night, turning back our clocks one hour. We will gain 4 more hours before we reach Ft. Lauderdale. We went to a destination presentation on the Azores, which is our next and last port. There are 9 islands that make up the Azores. Their main product is pineapple. The presenter said the island is not heavily touristed, but is a refueling stop for cruise ships. We went to the evening show in the theater. The performer was E. Sarah Carter and she played the violin, and sang a little, too. She was entertaining, but probably would not go to see her again. Afterwards we went to Crooners to hear AJ Clarke on the piano.

November 9, 2021:  This day was a total waste for me. I was sick and spent the whole day in bed. I did t know if it was something I ate or… COVID…..☹️. Late evening, about 6:30 PM, I called the medical facility and the nurse came and gave me a PCR test. After about 40 minutes, I received the call from the medical facility …. my test was negative 😁!  Since I hadn’t eaten all day, we went to the buffet and I had a little to eat. I was still very tired, went to bed, and got about 10 more hours of sleep. Poor Dave just hung around the stateroom all day, even though I told him to go out and do something.

November 10, 2021:  Our last port before Ft. Lauderdale – Ponta Delgada in the Azores. The Azores are comprised of 9 islands, formed from volcanos and lava. We are on the largest island, Sao Miguel. Sao Miguel is known for its rich volcanic soil and nurtures a multitude of tobacco, tea and pineapple crops. It is very green and the temperatures average 75 in the summer and 50 in the winter, so everything grows here. It never snows and they never get a frost. Ponta Delgada is the capitol of the Azores.

We have a ship excursion today and have to meet in the theatre at 8:00am. Fortunately, I’m feeling pretty good. We walk out of the terminal and get on the bus with about 31 other people, but it is a big bus, so not packed. Dave and I usually try to sit in the back of the bus because everyone else sits near the front. Sitting in the back let’s us space out better. 

Our first stop is Ribeira Grande, the islands oldest town featuring Portuguese influenced architecture dating from the 16th century. There is a picturesque river that runs through this town.

Ribeira Grande

We walked around this town, and looked inside one of its chapels.

Small chapel

I believe our guide said 95% of the population is Catholic. There is a statue here of a priest, Dr. Gaspar Fructuoso, who lived 1522 – 1591, and wrote a detailed historical and geographical description of the archipelago’s of the Azores, Madeira, and Canaries. His writings are still used as a reference today.

Large church with Dr. Gaspar Fructuoso statue

The second stop was at Pico Do Ferro overlook, with a panoramic view of the volcanic Furnas Valley. It was a bit of a hike up to the overlook, but it was worth the effort.

View from overlook

Then we vitiated the Terre Nostra Gardens which is a lush garden with many varieties of plants  and trees. This was the best stop on this tour. The gardens date back to 1775. Originally a 4 acre summer residence of Thomas Hickling, a Bostonian merchant. He built a simple house with trees mostly from his native North America. None of thes survived except for a native English Oak. The gardens were subsequently extended and developed by subsequent owners. In 1848, the Viscount of Praia purchased the property, expanded the garden and laid it out amidst the water, the dark groves of trees and plantings of flowers. In 1872, his son, the Marquis of Praia and Monforte, introduced additional improvements with gardening experts who helped develop a serpentine canal, grottoes, lush avenues and trails which were then lined with orange trees. Some of the trees from that period were from North America, Australia, New Zealand, China, and South Africa. By 1990, arborists and horticulturists undertook the identification of approximately 2500 trees as well as the planting of more than 3000 new trees and shrubs. The development of the garden has been ongoing with separate sections for a collection of endemic species, a fern garden, a cycads garden, a garden of annual flowers and plants, and a camellia collection. There are water features, including a swimming pool that is heated to 100 degrees F by the natural hot springs, and pools of water that bubble due to escaping gases. The swimming pool looks muddy, but the color is caused by chemicals in the natural hot springs. The gardens now cover 25 acres.

Some of the plantings
Swimming pool heated to 100 degrees by hot springs
Residents of the gardens



Our last stop was the hot springs. As soon as we exited the bus we could smell the sulfur. Locals use these steaming pools for cooking. The area we visited was about 2 blocks. The pools, or caldeiras were bubbling and steaming. Our guide said one exploded recently, which was something probably like Old Faithful going off, but these do not gush on a regular basis. We stopped at the souvenir shop, where they were giving samples of locally produced liquors. We bought 2 little bottles – blackberry flavored and cinnamon flavored.

Steaming Caldeiras


Steaming Caldeiras

We got back to the ship about 1:30, and headed to the buffet because we were hungry. Afterwards, we packed our cooler weather clothes, because we anticipate warmer weather from here home. There won’t be much to write about, as we have 6 sea days ahead of us. Time to relax. Can’t even use the internet as we don’t have any connection. A little frustrating……

We had dinner in the Crown Grill which is a specialty restaurant. Dave had a filet, and I had lamb chops. The meal as a whole was very good, but we ordered asparagus for our side dish, and it was tough and stringy ☹️. By the time we finished our meal, it was bedtime. We gain an hour tonight, and will gain 3 more hours before Ft. Lauderdale.

November 11, 2021: It is Veteran’s Day! A bagpiper plays all the military hymns in the piazza/atrium, which is a nice salute to the US military. It is a beautiful day outside. The $100 per person credit for no internet has been applied to our account, so we sit for 35 minutes waiting for the future cruises lady to make our future cruise deposits…only to find out after 34 minutes that the Captains Club lady next door has future cruise forms we could have filled out. Because of COVID, there are no brochures or forms sitting out. But you would think the Captain’s Club lady could have got off her lazy butt and asked the line of people if they wanted a future cruise deposit form. 

I have observed many people who work hard, seem very smart, but don’t understand efficiency. Just my two cents.

Tonight is formal night. We don’t really dress formal, but dress up a bit more than usual. Lobster is on the menu, and I have two tails. Dave chooses Chateaubriand. Afterwards we listen to AJ Clarke in Crooners, the martini bar, then off to our room.

November 12, 2021:  The ship is rocking a bit today and the captain says we have gone around a weather system in the Atlantic. He says it may be choppy for 48 hours more! It is another sea day, which normally I like, but not without internet. We still have very limited access and I can’t even read my emails. Apparently we can send emails, but those we receive say “the message has not been downloaded from the server”. Sometime we can read the subject line, but that’s it. Dave found a book to read from the library the morning, and we went to an enrichment talk about Pan American Airlines, and it’s founder Juan Tripp. We will try to catch some trivia, and more music, but otherwise, not much to do. We turn our clocks back another hour tonight, so we will only be 2 hours ahead of Florida. These 25 hour days give us lots of time to relax…too much time. We have been walking around the ship to get some exercise, and it is a big ship, but very few decks actually go all the way around. It appears decks 8 and 9 have areas sectioned off, which I assume are for quarantine purposes.

After dinner we went to “Liars Club” game show, and then to list to AJ Clarke again. We enjoy sitting in Crooners, the martini bar, and listening to him sing and play the piano. Tonight we set our clocks back another hour. 

 November 13, 2021:  After, turning our clocks back another hour, we are only 2 hours different than home. We will have two more 25 hour days. Much better than going the other direction and having 23 hour days! The water is rough, and we were rocking and rolling overnight. Midship is always better, so we will find someplace to sit and hang out. We sat next to a nice couple from Houston at Breakfast this morning, Jack and Barb. We sat next to them yesterday morning, too, which is purely by chance. You are seated in an available table, with many different servers, eating at whatever time you like. In the evening, we ask for the same server, Alex, and his assistant, Ana. They have taken good care of us, and have snagged some bottles of the wine we like for us even though it is no longer available in the dining room. 

One complaint I have is even though you ask for something specific, the crew tend to fill your order without advising you that they have made a substitution. For example, I’ve ordered skim latte which is coffee with skim milk, but some servers just use whole milk anyway. When questioned, they told me they only have one milk. Ana, our server at dinner did that, once, with wine. We ordered a specific Chardonnay, and she brought a substitute, without telling us. When asked, she said our brand was not available in the dining room any longer. Dave said he would go out to one of the bars to get it, and then she went and found the one we like. Now she has a bottle in reserve for us.

We attended another Enrichment Lecture on the “Queens of Cunard”. The presentations are in Princess Live, which is a mini theatre, and they are always packed. Probably because everyone on board is internet starved like we are, and looking for entertainment. The presentations are very interesting, however. 

November 14, 2021:  Another sea day, and we still don’t have internet. We attended another Enrichment Lecture on the Bermuda Triangle. It was very fitting because we were suppose to be in Bermuda today. One of the theories discussed was magnetic aberration. Interesting, because I was sitting on our balcony in the afternoon, and checked my compass app. It showed the ship heading East, which did not make sense at all. Our heading should always be westerly…west, southwest, or even northwest. I even showed my app to Dave and he thought maybe the captain was going around something. I think it was an example of magnetic aberration. We missed the first few lectures from this lecturer, Franz Schneider, and he mentioned they were recorded and could be watched on the stateroom TV. So we watched one from our room about “Avoiding Disaster”.  They are all very interesting. 

We went to the Crown Grill, a specialty restaurant, for dinner. Dave and I both had Sea Bass which was very good. 

Tonight we gain another hour, so we will only be one hour off from home. 

November 15, 2021:   Our internet is still pathetic. Dave thinks it may be worse than yesterday. We certainly were not prepared to be totally out of contact. We attended another lecture by Franz Schneider, Cruising the First Century. This was not about the first century, but about cruising from about the 1890’s through the 1990’s. More interesting was a presentation by AJ Clarke of “ Music from the Beatles to Baccarat”. I am definitely a fan of AJ Clarke. He has so much information about writers, background musicians, etc. We attended his show in the theatre earlier in the cruise, and he has performed in the martini bar, Crooners, every evening, which we have attended many evenings, including tonight. We also went to the production show in the theatre which was Motown music. It is formal night, so I finally get escargot and lobster. Dave had Beef Wellington.

November 16, 2021:   Our last day onboard. We are scheduled to have a COVID test at 9:30am, so we set out clock to get up early enough to have breakfast before the test. I think this test is required by the USA for the ship to dock in Florida and disembark passengers. We are anticipating a long wait with lots of people, but we’re surprised that we literally walked in and got our test, and left. The whole procedure probably took less than 5 minutes. The longest wait was waiting for the elevator to take us from deck 14 where our stateroom is located, down to deck 6 where the testing takes place. After the test, we went back to the stateroom to pack up most of our stuff, except what we’ll need for the rest of the day and tomorrow morning. Then we listened to another of Franz Schneider’s lectures, “Life on the Liners”, which was about cruising in the 1970’s. In the evening, we went to the martini bar, Crooners, to listen to AJ Clarke one last time.

November 17, 2021:   We disembark this morning. Getting off the ship was pretty quick. We have “global entry” which is suppose to speed up entry into the USA and going through customs. Unfortunately, there is only one line for people with global entry, and several lines for people without global entry. The result is it takes those of us with global entry much longer to officially enter the USA. But, they let us in, and we make the long drive home.

Western Caribbean 10/9 to 10/14/2021

Itinerary:

10/9/21 Miami

10/10/21 At Sea

10/11/21 Cozumel, Mexico

10/12/21 Costa Maya, Mexico

10/13/21 At Sea

10/14/21 Miami

We are cruising with Dave’s brother Steve, and Steve’s wife, Pat on Celebrity Summit. We are in Concierge Class and our stateroom’s are next to each other, 8100 and 8102, on the starboard side. When originally  booking the cruise, Dave and I are elite, so by booking Dave and Steve in one stateroom, and Pat and I in another, we were able to get one category upgrade on balcony staterooms. However, at one point the prices dropped, and we were able to upgrade to Concierge Class, and actually got a $6 refund. 

10/7/2021 – Thursday – One requirement to cruise in these times of COVID-19 is that you have to present a negative COVID test taken within 2 days of boarding. This was a stressful concern, because we were having difficulty booking an appointment for the test, and getting the results in time. Our only option was driving to Sarasota, but again, no guarantee we would get in, and get our result on time. Dave took a rapid test in Sarasota, early on during the pandemic, and they lost his retest, so he had to drive back to Sarasota and take the test again. For these reasons, we decided to order the home tests, that are taken with a proctor. Our two days before was on October 7, a Thursday, to board two days later on October 9. Dave and I had ordered the tests, and they arrived overnight. We got a better deal on ordering a 6 test bundle. I went to Walmart and bought a tripod to hold our phones when we took the test, as the proctor has to be able to see you and the test which is lying on the table. The test cannot be touched or moved for 15 minutes, in order to get an approved test. We were all kind of nervous about this process, but the good news is that we all took the test, one after another, and we all tested negative. Each of us took about 30 to 40 minutes, start to finish. So, in about 2 1/2 hours, we were done.

10/9/2021- Saturday – It is Saturday, and we drove from Englewood to the port in Miami. It is about a         3 1/2 hour drive. Our check in time was 12:30, which is about what time it was by the time we dropped off our luggage to the porters, parked the car and entered the terminal. Unfortunately, it took us awhile to actually get our boarding passes because Pat and Steve do not have passports, but are traveling with their drivers license and birth certificates. Celebrity’s app did not allow for Real ID drivers license’s, only Enhanced drivers license’s when registering online, even though it is legal to travel with the Real ID drivers licenses. The app would only allow me to pick a state that has Enhanced Drivers license, so I chose Michigan, just to be able to register them. I called Celebrity and asked what I should do, and was told they could change it at the port. Well, yes they could, but not without a lot of waiting so the staff could figure out how to fix it. So what should have only taken about 15 minutes, took about an hour. We arrived at our staterooms about 1:30PM, and Dave and I were very disappointed with our balcony. It was very small and angled. We went to customer service and changed the occupants so I was with Dave, and Pat was with Steve. We were also able to change our stateroom to the other side of Pat and Steve, and got a regular size balcony. Fortunately, stateroom 8098 was not booked.

Dave & Jane on Celebrity Summit

We went to lunch in the buffet, and Pat and Steve were impressed with the options. We did not eat much, but 3 of us had Salmon Pattie’s and Pat had pork cutlet  (I think).The sommelier convinced us to upgrade our drink package. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the ship, unpacking, and having a few drinks. Steve taught the bartender at the martini bar to make butterfingers! We got a coupon for free play in the casino. Apparently everyone who got a scratch off ticket from the casino in the afternoon, got $5 of free play when you returned in the evening after the ship left port. 

Our dinner time is 6:00, and we have a nice table for 4 next to a window on Port side. For dinner, I had my favorite, escargot and a martini, and prime rib. Guava sorbet for dessert. Dave had spring rolls and shrimp cocktail, Salmon for dinner, and apple pie ala. mode.   Steve had mushroom soup, escargot, and prime rib and cherry brandy ice cream. Pat had chilled coconut soup (which she didn’t like because it also had ginger in it), pork chop and blueberry crumble for dessert. After dinner we went to the casino for our free plays, which took about 5 minutes to spend. The we went to the martini bar for drinks and a little music before the show. Dave and I wandered into Etsy, the jewelry store for a bit where they tried to convince us to buy a $7,200 diamond necklace. No, thanks. We went to the show in the theatre which was a comedian, Tom Grueter. He was pretty good and I think we all enjoyed the show. After the show, it was back to the martini bar for an after dinner drink!

10/10/2012 – Sunday – We had agreed to meet at 8:30 am to go to breakfast. We ate in the dining room.I tried the apple pancakes and chicken turkey sausage, which I won’t have again. Did not really care for either. We went to a destination presentation, where the excursions for Cozumel and Costa Maya are discussed. We have booked  “The Best of Cozumel” for tomorrow, which has a meeting time of 8:45am….early, but doable. But, our excursion for Tuesday at Costa Maya has a meeting time of 7:45am. We have decided that is just too early for us. So after the destinations presentation, we went to the shore excursions desk to see if there was something else we could do. One excursion had an age limit that excluded us, so we are a bit limited. Fabio, the shore excursions guy, is working on options for us. We will see what he comes up with.

We had lunch in the dining room. Steve and I had teriyaki duck breasts, Dave had a BBQ pork knuckle and Fontana cheese panini, and Pat had turkey medallions. After lunch, we decided we’d go back to our rooms and rest for a bit. Dave can watch the Bucs game.

After lunch, Dave watched the Buc’s game and I napped. We went to some entertainment. First was a game called Celebrity Heads. The contestants are suppose to guess the name of a celebrity that is on a video behind them. They ask questions which get a yes, no, or maybe. Then there was trivia – first was music, and we did not do very well. Then general knowledge trivia. And we did much better, but didn’t win. The activity person running the trivia was Carlos. He was a dynamo, full of energy, but made the games fun.

Back to the martini bar, where we enjoyed a show by the bartender. 

Took a little rest before dinner. For dinner, Pat had beef ragout, steak and cherries jubilee. Steve had a pomegranate mojito, escargot, trout and cherries jubilee. Dave had shrimp cocktail, trout and cherries jubilee. I had escargot, seafood orzo, and lava cake. After dinner we went to a game where passengers were playing against officers. Then in the grand foyer, all the officers were presented. The captain said we had 348 passengers and 750 (or so) crew. I don’t remember the exact number of crew. We went to the show which was a very talented performer, Tom Franck. He played the piano and sang, but not in a traditional way. 

10/11/2021 – We had to be up early for our ship excursion in Cozumel, so we had room service deliver our breakfast. We met in the theater about 8:45am for our tour. I think there were 14 people and we had a big bus, so plenty of room to spread out. The tour was “Best of Cozumel” and our tour guides were two ladies, Mimi and Margarita. We were taken to our first stop was the Mayan Cacao Company.

Mimi gave us a lesson on the Mayas, their culture, how they counted, and their calendar. We saw the recreation of a traditional Mayan house, with two doors. Entry was always one door and exit was always the other door. The house had an altar for deceased loved ones, which is very important in the Mayan culture. We tasted a mini tortilla with a smear of mole, which none of us liked. Then we moved to a building where we were given a small tasting of (grainy) chocolate and learned about the history of chocolate, its manufacturing process, and watched a demonstration of the making of chocolate. When leaving that building, the vendor making chocolate drinks is located. He makes chocolate margaritas, chocolate mudslides, chocolate martinis, and others. I like the chocolate margarita, which is a frozen drink, for $5. The last time I had it, the bartender made a much better drink, but this one was OK. Next, on the same property, we went up the stairs of another building to visit the Tequila Appreciation Seminar for an educational sampling of the authentic Tequila from Guadalajara, Jalisco, with brands you will not find at any other store. After the tequila tasting, we went back downstairs into a shop that sells chocolate bars, Mexican ceramics, and other souvenirs. We reboarded the bus for a drive along the rugged East Coast with its black ironshore and the crashing waves to the Mayan Bee Sanctuary.  We participated in a Mayan ceremony.

We learned about the history behind the sacred, stingless Melipona Bee and its importance to the Mayan Culture, and saw some cenotes which are sinkholes. We got a bit of a rain shower, but we’re able to take refuge in the tent of a stone carver. This person carves replicas of Mayan statues and such out of stone, much as the Mayans did. Then we entered another building to sample some honey. The last building had honey and souvenirs for purchase.


We were pretty tired and hungry when we got back to the ship, but managed some lunch and wine in the buffet. We cleaned up in our rooms and rested for a bit. Then the captain made an announcement that the whole ship was invited to the helipad on the front of the ship for sail away. Sail away was suppose to be at 6:00PM, but we were still waiting for the ropes to be released at 6:00PM. Almost exactly 6:00PM, a black car came speeding down the pier and dropped off somebody…we could not see the occupants of the car. Almost immediately after that, the tops got released and we were sailing away from Cozumel. Our adventure on the helipad made us a little late for dinner, but we got plenty of food anyway. Steve, Pat and I had beef short ribs. Dave had a New York Strip steak. Pat had broccoli soup for an appetizer and Dave had a shrimp cocktail. Steve and I had escargot. Steve also got a “Mexican Firing Squad” cocktail, and I had my usual martini. The cocktail server Pubo, brings me blue cheese olives every night. After dinner, we went to the theater for the evening show, which was a “production” show, meaning, music, singing, dancing, and many costume changes. The name of the show was “Life” and the message was that we are only here a short time – you need to make the most of it. The finale song was “I’ve done it all”. It was a long day, we have an early day tomorrow, so we were off to bed after the show.

10/12/2021 – Another shore excursion today and we need to meet in the theatre at 8:30AM. The time was changed from meeting at 7:30AM basically because we told them we wanted to cancel because we could not get ready by 7:30AM. The shore excursions person, Fabio, said he would work on it and ended up changing the time! We had room service for breakfast again, and made our way to the theatre at 8:30AM. There are 3 ships in port today, our Celebrity Summit, Virgin Scarlet Lady, and an MSC ship – Merivalla (?). 

Our tour is Chacchoben Mayan Ruins Experience. It is going to be a hot day. We leave the ship and walk the very long Costa Maya pier to get to our meeting place with our guide. There are about 14 people from the ship, and they split us into two groups of 7. Our transportation is one of the mini buses that hold about 15 passengers. So 7 passengers, our guide and bus driver, are not too crowded on the bus. Our guides name is Pedro, and I believe the bus driver was Jimen.

We drive about 1 hour away from the port, which is not surprising. On our previous trips here we learned that Costa Maya was basically a “town” built to house cruise ship visits. There is a small Mexican town nearby, Mahuhual, with small mom and pop shops and groceries for the residents. Of course there are lots of shops, bars and restaurants right at the port, primarily to take cruise passengers money. On the hour long drive, Pedro talks about the local area, the Mayans, the ruins we are going to see, and of course, gives us a sales pitch on cartouches, which we passed on.

The ruins are deep into the jungle and are billed as one of Mexico’s most astounding Mayan sites. The ruins at Chacchoben cover nearly 10 acres and remain virtually unexcavated to this day. Pedro leads us through its temples and gardens. First we see the massive main pyramid, which archeologists have determined is solid. The equinoxes line up with the corners of the pyramid. Prior to Mexico obtaining this property, our guide said the land was farmed and also the owner had cows which roamed the area. We had to watch out for fire ants! We also saw an animal in the rodent family that looked half like a giant rat and half like a rabbit. Pedro said the animal was something like an “aschutto”. I’ll have to look that up.

We walked around the site and saw a big plaza which were stores on one side and tax collectors on the other (according to Pedro). We walked further and climbed some steep stairs to another large plateau where we could see two more pyramids. One pyramid had a “roof” structure of palm fronds. Pedro said the archeologists discovered stone when excavating this area that was still the original white color, and the archeologists built the frond roof to protect those stones. 

Pat and Steve



Dave and Steve

After exploring the plateau area, it was time for our one hour ride back to the ship.

”Pineapple Town”, near Costa Maya, Mexico

We had lunch in the buffet, went back to our rooms to shower and rest. Dave and I went to a presentation on the Galapagos, which we are thinking about for a future trip. 

Tonight is dress up night, which means Lobster for dinner. Pat and Steve had lobster and beef Wellington for dinner. I had lobster with a side of wild mushroom risotto. Dave had lobster and haddock. For appetizers, Dave had scallops Rockefeller, Steve had gumbo and escargot, Pat had French onion soup and I had blue cheese soufflé. The waitstaff and kitchen staff did their parade and everyone cheered them on. For dessert, Steve and I had baked Alaska, Dave and Pat had ice cream.

After dinner, we decided to skip the singer in the theatre, and (unfortunately) spent the evening in the martini bar, where there seems to be a parade of other sorts, like a guy wearing red high heels! I think we sampled most of the available martinis, with a nut and berry martini, which none of us had before, ending up being one of our favorites. After draining the martini bar of most of its alcohol, we all headed to bed.

10/13/2021 – We lost an hour overnight, and with our escapades at the martini bar, we slept in. Pat and Steve ordered room service, and Dave and I went to the buffet for breakfast. Then back to the room to rest up a bit and pack most of our stuff. Pretty uneventful day..just eating and drinking and packing, except for a visit to Essy. We had lunch in the buffet, and dinner in the dining room. 

Pat tried eggplant caviar, but hated it, so she got a spinach turnover, roast turkey dinner. Steve had escargot, spinach turnover, Steak Diane with a New York sirloin, Dave had a spinach turnover and a New York sirloin . I had escargot, and New York sirloin.  We all had a grand mariner soufflé for dessert. After dinner we went to the martini bar. Dave and I went back to the jewelry store and browsed some more. Then we went back to the martini bar to consider our purchase. Dave went back to the jewelry store to negotiate some more, and came back to the martini bar with the purchase he made. Pat lost the back of her earring, so we crawled around on the floor for awhile, but could not find it. After some martini tastings, we headed to our staterooms to finish packing and put out our luggage for the porters to pick up and have ready for us tomorrow morning in the port terminal.

10/14/2021 – We are up fairly early and desert our staterooms by 8:00am. We went to breakfast in the Ocean View cafe (buffet), and had a nice leisurely breakfast. While eating, an announcement was made that you could leave the ship when ready, which is unusual because you are usually called by number. We cleared customs with the face recognition machine. No agent, no questions, just look into the machine. 

Caribbean Cruise Post-Pandemic 8/1-8/15/2021

Celebrity Equinox


Itinerary:

8/1/21 Board Celebrity Equinox in Ft. Lauderdale

8/2/21 Nassau

8/3/21 At Sea

8/4/21 At Sea

8/5/21 Cozumel, Mexico

8/6/21 Costa Maya, Mexico

8/7/21 At Sea

8/8/21 Ft. Lauderdale

8/9/21 Nassau

8/10/21 At Sea

8/11/21 St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands

8/12/21 Phillipsburg, St. Maarten

8/13/21 At Sea

8/14/21 At Sea

8/15/21 Ft. Lauderdale

We are doing a back to back on the Celebrity Equinox….or, at least that is the plan. On Friday, July 30, 2021, at 3:15pm we receive an email that everyone has to get a Covid test before boarding. This is less than 48 hours before we are to board. We check the local testing sites, and the closest place for us to get a test is in Virginia! After 3 calls to Celebrity, the first two being dropped calls after being on hold for many, many minutes….we finally get an answer from someone. Tests will be done at the port. On Saturday, we read about the disaster on the Celebrity Edge, where people were waiting in the sun for 4 or more hours, waiting to test and board. We were very concerned about what a fiasco it was going to be to board the Eclipse on Sunday. At 11:00pm, I get an email to schedule our Covid test for our embarkation on 8/1. We we given the embarkation time of 2:30pm, so we scheduled the test tor 1:00. On Sunday morning, we received an email that vaccinated people didn’t have to test. Whew! So we do not have to test! 

August 1, 2021:  We arrived at the port about 2:00pm, dropped off our luggage, parked, when through boarding and we were on the ship in about 20 minutes. We have to wear “tracelets” so if someone tests positive for Covid, they can trace people who were in contact with the infected person. 

Tracelet

We explored the ship, got our internet set up (which sucks), spoke to shore excursions to try and switch one of our shore excursions, signed up for a wine tasting and sampled a few drinks.  Our dining time is 6:00pm, but Dave wanted to be in our room at 6:00pm to watch sail away. So we ordered from room service and watched sail away from our balcony on the back of the ship. 

We went to see a Beatles show, which was a lot of fun. It was a one-man show, but he (Pete Baker ?)  was very funny and engaged the audience. Then we went to the martini bar, and sampled several martinis/drinks. Dave enjoyed a “butterfinger” cocktail, which is one of his brother, Steve, favorite drink.

They were having a silent disco, which we had never done before. We got headphones with 3 different channels – so 3 different types of music. 

We got caught up in the music and got up and danced, just like lots of other people. The only thing was that everyone may have been listening to different channels than us, and if you didn’t have headphones, all you saw were people dancing but could not hear any music. For us, it was a lot of fun. We danced and enjoyed our “channel”. We are thrilled to be back on a cruise ship after 17 months due to Covid, and thoroughly enjoyed Day 1.

August 2, 2021: We are in Nassau today, but have not booked any shore excursions – which is a good thing. Lots of rain, thunder and lightning. We went to breakfast in the restaurant. Even though we had a table for two, there was an older couple next to us. She was playing some kind of music on her phone which was very distracting. I did not recognize the music at all. Actually, when I first heard it, it sounded like little kids singing. After breakfast, we went up to the solarium and relaxed in a big, round sofa (?) chair for two. 

Dave napped a bit and I read the Englewood Sun newspaper online. We could look out towards Nassau, and could see Atlantis in the distance. Nassau is building a big dock to be able to deal with the bigger cruise ships, and more of them. We were the only ship in port today. 

Shortly before noon, we weren’t hungry, and the weather looked better, but not great. At least it wasn’t raining. We left the ship to walk around. The diamond store were open as well as some of the souvenir shops. I don’t think any of the restaurants were open, and I didn’t see any of the bars open, either. After walking around for about an hour, we got back on the ship and had a light lunch in the buffet, which is served. Really splurging, we had wine with our lunch, and went to the Ocean Cafe bar to visit our favorite bartender, Imade from Bali, and had another glass of wine. Then we went to a music trivia event, and after that, another trivia event. We never do well in trivia, but got about 50% of the answers right. 

We were a little confused about dinner, and where we were suppose to eat. Our card indicated anytime dining, but we also had an assigned time and table. When we went to the assigned table line, he sent us to the anytime dining line. When we got to the anytime dining line, they said we were suppose to be in the assigned table line! After a bit of conversation (they were very nice), we told them what we wanted and they fixed us up. We think we are in anytime dining……? After some vodka and escargot, I was happy.😁

We went to the late show which was a production show called Topper”. Beautiful costumes, dancing, acrobatics on a trapeze, and a little bit of a story to follow. Loved the trapeze acts! After “Topper”, we went to a mind reading act in a smaller theatre, which was packed! This presentation was put on by the cruise director, Eddy Jenkins, and the guy who did the Beatles show (Pete). All the mind reading acts seemed amazing and unbelievable! Of course, it was all trickery of which we could figure out most but not all. But a lot of fun. Eddy and Pete, the two guys presenting the show are very, very funny! After all that excitement, it was time for bed.

August 3, 2021:  Thunder & lightning again this morning. I think we are going to have a stormy week. But hey! We are on a cruise ship snd who cares about the weather. One change though…we were trying to get on a tour doing tubing on a river, and we’re on a wait list. Based on the weather, we decided to do our original tour which is more of a bus ride (☹️). If we don’t do a ships excursion in Costa Maya, we cannot get off the ship due to Covid-19 restrictions.

This morning we went to the shore excursion discussion and won $10 off on a shore excursion, which we were able to apply to next week since we already have excursions for this week. Just before lunch we went to a music trivia challenge. We did OK, but there were 10 songs and somehow we only heard 9 songs????  This afternoon we went to an iLearn session and learned some interesting things about our iPhones. We went to the “Deal or no Deal” game and won $55 in casino play money. After dinner we went to see comedian Tom Mc Tigue. Dave didn’t think he was very funny, but I enjoyed the show. Afterward we went to an improv comedy show “Cruise line is it anyway” which was hilarious! It is patterned after “Whose line is it anyway”. The cruise director, Eddy, the Beatles guy, Pete, and two entertainers – a woman and man, were the 4 “players”. I was dying from laughter – really, really funny. We went to the casino to “spend” Dave’s $55 from “Deal or no Deal”. You could not just get the cash, you had to play something in the casino. But if you won,  you could cash in your winnings. Dave ended up about $43, so we were ahead. We spent $40 to play “Deal or no Deal” and won $43 which more than paid for his cards. By now it is midnight, so we grabbed a last glass of wine and headed to the stateroom for bed. Fortunately we gain an hour tonight – but that means we’ll lose an hour later in the cruise 😫.

August 4, 2021:  We got our extra hour of sleep. After breakfast we went to a presentation by the Captain about the building of Celebrity Solstice class ships. The ship we are on, Equinox, is a Solstice class ship. The Captain is a funny guy and gave a good presentation. Then we went to a presentation about Galapagos and Machu Picchu. Celebrity offers (expensive) excursions to Galapagos, which is on my bucket list if I live long enough 😁. Their excursion to Machu Picchu is high end, using the dome train and the Bingham train. We did the less expensive trains when we went…..

So I do have one complaint so far….the temperature on the ship is too cold! Even Dave complains and grabs his jacket. Who would have thought to bring warmer clothes to the Caribbean in August?

In the afternoon, we went to another iLearn class. This one was about the camera, and features  we didn’t know we had – well, some we weren’t aware of. We do learn some shortcuts, too.

I am a little frustrated with the internet onboard. The choices are surf or stream. The stream is more expensive and supposedly allows you to stream TV and movies. I thought the surf would allow me to do emails, access web sites, and get my daily challenges in the games I play. Basically the surf option is good for checking emails. I may opt to spend the big bucks for the stream option next week – it’s $140 for the week, which turns out to be $20 a day. The daily rate is really unreasonable…I think it was like $40 for one day.

We’ve been enjoying listening to music with the “Kickstarters” in the Grand Foyer, and visiting our favorite bartender, Imade in the Oceanview Bar. He introduced us to the Mer Soleil Chardonnay. Unfortunately, he must have introduced more people to this wine because we were unable to get it with dinner – they told us they ran out! One person said there are 1400 people onboard, and they must be heavy drinkers. We were trying to find Decoy Cabernet, but several bars were out of it. Finally found it at the third bar we visited. 

The evening show was 6 vocalists from the ships entertainment group singing some of their favorites, accompanied by the ships orchestra. Fortunately we recognized a few of the songs!

August 5, 2021: We arrived in Cozumel an hour later than planned. Don’t know why we were late, but there are two Carnival ships in port with us. Funny story… I told Dave the Carnival Vista was in port with us. He comes out and says No, it’s the carnival Breeze. I look out, and sure enough, it says Carnival Breeze. Later in the day, when we were returning from our shore excursion, we see there are two Carnival ships, the Vista and the Breeze….but when the Breeze pulled in, it blocked the Vista from view! So I really did see the Vista initially. I was very relieved I had not completely lost it!

Went to trivia – feel pretty good – we got 11 out of 15!

This afternoon we went on a shore excursion. Since it started at noon, I was distressed that I might miss some food! Lunchtime! So I got my free gelato and ate it on the way to our meetup place and while I was waiting for our bus number to be called. Surprisingly, everything was quite timely and I didn’t even get a chance to finish my Reese’s pieces which were included with my gelato! We had to sign waivers before getting on the bus – not sure why as this was a pretty tame shore excursion. We got on the bus and drove to our first stop which was a chocolate tasting opportunity. Before tasting the chocolate, our guide gave us a talk on the mayan’s and some information on the Maya culture. 

Can you see the green parrot in the background?

While Mexicans apparently celebrate all the holidays, the one that is the most important is the day of the dead, celebrated on November 2. On this day, their ancestors are remembered snd honored. We saw a typical Mayan home, which contained statues for the day of the dead. 

Example of Shrine to celebrate Day of the Dead

Finally we get to the chocolate tasting. Our little taste was gritty, and not great. We were shown how chocolate is made, and also all the things added to the coach beans to make it tasty, like honey and sugar. We were then taken to the showroom, where we could take more chocolate, and of course buy some. There was also a bar where we could purchase a chocolate margarita – which I had to have. It was only $5, and very frozen, which was good because it was so hot outside. Did not have any margarita flavor, but it was a good drink and cold! We were taken upstairs for a tequila tasting. We tasted blanco tequila, another tequila good for mixing, and a coffee liqueur made with tequila. These did not interest us, so we bailed after the tasting. It was interesting to hear how we should be drinking tequila compared to how we actually drink it. Back on the bus, we drove around the south end of the island and went to a bee sanctuary. These bees do not sting, but they do bite! Before we entered the sanctuary, we we part of a Mayan ceremony. We were shown a cenote, which is a sinkhole. These were important to the Mayans and probably their source of drinking water. It was basically a sinkhole filing with a little stream of water. Walking to where the bees were, their homes are in logs. We saw a (very) few bees, some flying around, and a guardian bee who protects their hive. 

Little Guardian bee sticking his head out


Stingless bees – but they can bite!

Of course we had the opportunity to purchase honey products, but this did not interest us. We left tips, as we were sympathetic to these people who depend on tourism and were without tourist for many months.

Back on the bus, we drove through downtown Cozumel, but a lot of businesses were closed. Once back on board ship we were a bit hungry, so we went to the mast bar and got a hamburger, and then to to Ocean View bar to see Imade and get some Mer Soleil wine ….we got the wine, but Imade wasn’t there!

We skipped the show this evening, but went to another iLearn class about using the google translate app. It’s interesting because we always pick up a tidbit or two 😁.

August 6, 2021:  It’s Dave’s birthday! We have a ship excursion that meets at 8:30, but the restaurants don’t open until 7:30am, go we grab breakfast from the buffet. MOST of the food is served, but not all. Coffee and beverage dispensers are self serve. 

Our tour guide is “Yam” and his English is pretty good. We are on a big bus, the guide says 26 people, but it’s hard to spread out – especially when someone sits in the seats directly in front or in back of you. Costa Maya is basically just a cruise dock. The city is Mahahual, and it is a very small town, too. We had to drive 1.5 hours. Our tour is going to Bacalar which has a fort from the 1700’s. It was build by the Mayan for the Spanish. Then we went on pontoon boats for a ride on the 7 color lagoon. 

The water is beautiful and changes color based on the sun and depth of the water. After about 30 minutes, we stopped, and were given the opportunity to  swim for about 30 minutes. We didn’t because our seats on the pontoon were in the open, hot sun. We had put on sunscreen, and I didn’t want to wash it off for the ride back. 

After our 30 minute ride back to the starting point, we were given a buffet lunch. We had chips, tortillas, guacamole, lettuce salad, fried fish, black beans, and a chicken dish. Dave snd I both had beers because it was served in bottles – cautious to not get a drink with ice. The ice cold beer tasted great as it was hot. Then we had our 1.5 hour ride back to the ship. Dave switched to rum and Diet Coke for his afternoon pick me up!

This evening we have reservations for the specialty restaurant, Murano’s, because it was Dave’s birthday! The food was delicious. For an appetizer, Dave had a baked pear in phyllo dough with Roquefort cheese. I had salmon and peekytoe crab on a crust – but I forgot the official name. For dinner, Dave had Dover Sole and I had lobster. The lobster was prepared tableside and the waiter set off the fire alarm 😂. But it was delicious. For desert, we picked a sampler which came in 7 little glasses. Then they brought out a chocolate cake for Dave’s birthday! Needless to say, we were stuffed. We decided to head back to the stateroom to rest our full bellies.

August 7, 2021:  This morning we had to go to a meeting regarding our back to back. It is a bit of a procedure due to Covid-19. We had a rapid test, and assuming it comes back negative, we can cruise next week, too. We have to meet tomorrow morning, get off the ship as a group, and go through reboarding procedures to meet CDC requirements. We had our test a couple hours ago and have not heard anything so far, so that’s good news. 

We attended several trivia’s, including a Beatles one that we’re sure Wayne would have aced. We did pretty good on that one. We have learned that octopus have 3 hearts by going to trivia! 

The entertainment crew put on a show, which our trivia lady said they’d been practicing for weeks! Also listened to music by “Queen”. We stopped by Effy to look at a ring I’ve been admiring 😁, and then to the show. The show was basically two vocalists.  Before the show, there was a spoof of the cruise director, Eddie Jenkins, doing a dance audition supposedly in 2007. The premise was that he wanted to be a dancer and this was his last chance. Since he failed at dancing, he became a cruise director. 

The cruise director and captain have been the best we have cruised with. The captain is very funny and unfortunately for us, he is leaving for vacation and we’ll have a new captain for our second week.

The show was OK, but not that great. The vocalists, Laura Wright and Jesse ?, were talented, but just not music that we liked. We sat through most of the show, but left a little early. As we were listening to the music in the foyer, we got the dreaded announcement from the captain that one passenger has Covid, and has been isolated. Passengers who were in close contact have been tested and also isolated. No close contacts have tested positive, but were being kept isolated in an abundance of caution. 

August 8, 2021:   Today is our changeover day. The time has been crazy, our watches say one thing and the ships time says something else. We set our alarm for 6:45 with plans to vacate our stateroom by 8:00. Somehow, our time was off and the alarm went off at 6:45, but it was actually 7:45! So we had to hustle to finishing packing up our last minute stuff, as we are changing staterooms. We made it down to breakfast before 8:30, which is when all the breakfast restaurants close down.

B2B people had to assemble in a lounge on deck 5 by 9:30. They kept us together, and we had to leave the ship, go through facial recognition (!), and then wait until the ship was cleared before we could get back on. We were back onboard by 11:00, but everything is pretty much closed. I want to upgrade my internet package, as I could basically only check email last week. I have discovered that part of that is due to my phone ☹️. But, there are some You Tube guys I like to listen to, and I can’t do that with the basic internet package. It turns out it only cost $98 to upgrade for the week because of my loyalty status. I am discovering part of the problem is my phone though ☹️.

Since this is a turnaround day, it seems like there is not much open in the afternoon. We are in “Aqua Class” which gives us special deals in the spa, but more importantly, we have our own restaurant, Blu. 

We toured the spa, and saw the exercise room. At least we can say we visited the exercise room. I got on a rowing machine for about 1 minute 😁. At 4:00, the cruise director had trivia “Eddy’s Tricky Trivia” which he runs simultaneously on Facebook live. So, when you leave the cruise, you can still participate in his trivia events.

We signed up for Tuscan Grill, which is a specialty restaurant. Because we’re back to back cruisers, we got a special first night discount. While it is Italian based, they also have several steaks on their menu. We had a great table, at the window, on the back of the ship. It was a great view. Dave was not happy with the wine selection, but we had a couple of glasses that met his approval. We split some dishes so we could taste more things. We had a bruschetta, he had a Caesar salad and I had a heritage beet salad. We split a carbonara pasta dish, and we both ordered petite filet mignons medium rare. Unfortunately, the steak was more like medium well. Dave passed on dessert, but I had a tiramisu. It was an OK experience, but the best part was our table location and not the food ☹️. 

The singer from last week, Laura Wright, is the entertainer tonight. We did not care for her music last week, so we went back to the foyer area and listened to some music, and then did the silent disco thing again. We really enjoy the silent disco.

August 9, 2021:  This morning we had our first meal in Blu. It has slightly different options than the main dining room. I had an asparagus frittata, and Dave had an omelet. The real test will be dinner, so we’ll see how that goes this evening. 

We are in Nassau today, for a short stop, leaving at 3:00PM. After breakfast, we took a walk in Nassau to the Queens Staircase.  

Queen’s Staircase

It was carved out of solid limestone rock by 600 slaves between 1793 and 1794 to create an escape route from the fort above and is a major landmark of Nassau. Fortunately, we approached from the top, so we walked down the stairs, not up. There is a fort nearby, but it is closed so we couldn’t visit it. 

Just an image I couldn’t pass up ….

Back on the ship, in the afternoon, we went to observe the hot glass class. There are several different items you can make, and each has a price attached starting at $75 and going up from there. You need to make an appointment and choose the piece you want to make. The class we attended, the lady chose a pumpkin. To be honest, she did not do much of the work herself, but kind of assists the glass blower. Her item turned out very nice.

We also went to a sales presentation on the Celebrity Edge series of ships. It was a video showing how the ship was made, and giving a preview of all the public areas onboard. For me, it seems too big and too many things to do. I don’t know how you would experience all the different areas. 

We ate at Blu, our first evening meal. The food is different than the main dining room, and the menu has fewer choices, including some healthy ones. We were a little unhappy that the sommelier was not attentive, but he was probably pretty busy. We flagged down a Maitre D’ and he got us our wine. The issue was we had been served our entree’s and were sitting there with empty wine glasses.

August 10, 2021:  Today is a sea day – so kinda the same thing….attended some trivia, and actually did pretty good, but didn’t win ☹️. We listened to music in the foyer.  We like the “Kickstarters” band. We had better luck with dinner in Blu. I think the sommelier knew we were upset from the night before as he was very attentive. After dinner we visited some of the shops and Dave bought me a ring I had been eyeing 👁. The evening shows were cancelled as the entertainer tested positive for Covid. We went to the replacement show. The cruise director discussed pop music and lots of little trivia about pop singers. Pete Baker, also on the activity team and the guy who does the Beatles show, played and sang some of the oldies. It was interesting, especially for a last minute switch.

Then we went to “Cruise Line is it Anyway”, which we attended last week. It is a takeoff of “Whose line is it anyway”. Four members of the crew participate, and it seems very impromptu. I find it hilarious. Dave thinks it is a bit vulgar – and he’s right, but I still find it funny. One disappointment was the room was packed – maybe a seat here it there, but pretty much a full house. No social distancing ☹️.

August 11, 2021:  Today we have a port visit to St. Thomas, USVI. Dave and I both had a restless night, and tummy issues. We wake up hoping we don’t have covid ☹️. We take our temps, which are normal. We are suppose to go on a ships excursion today, but decide to skip it in case we continue having issues. We feel OK, thinking it must have been something we ate, but we both had different things for dinner. We had a light breakfast, and things seem to be OK. We went up to the sun deck and found some chairs in the shade, and just relaxed. We had hamburgers & fries for lunch, and everything still seems OK. We decide to get off the ship and walk around a bit. 

The iguanas were out walking around, too. They would actually approach people, so obviously people have fed them.

Out for a stroll…

Many places are closed, and of those that are open, some obviously have reduced inventory. The people in these ports have to be hurting – no tourism for 16 months, and only a very few ships are visiting now. In addition, the ships that are sailing have reduced capacity. After getting back to the ship, we went to visit Imade, one of our favorite bartenders. He told us there are about 1100 passengers onboard this week which is less than last week’s 1400. Capacity is 3434.

After spending some time with Imade, we went to trivia – and did more awful than usual – only 4 correct answers out of 15 questions! Everyone found it hard as the winning team only had 8 correct answers. On the positive side, we are learning some useless tidbits 😂.

Dinner at Blu…we have trained our sommelier to find our new favorite wine, Mer Soleil. Our dinner was excellent – a rib eye steak cooked and seasoned perfectly. After dinner, we wondered around as we had seen the show in the theater last week. We went to the jewelry store for their emerald extravaganza. Dave could not keep his credit card put away, so I was able to benefit from his problem 🤪. 

August 12, 2021:  we ordered breakfast in our room as we have an early (for us) shore excursion this morning. We are docked in Phillipsburg, St. Maarten. Our tour is in a double decker bus, and we had seats up top. We start out from the ship on the Dutch side of the island, and drove to the French side. Our tour guide gave us some interesting tidbits, such as, on the Dutch side, English is the primary language although Dutch and Creole are also spoken. Adopting English as the primary language brought in American investors and tourists, which was a boost to their economy. The language on the French side of the island is….French! The French side is larger than the Dutch side. Legend has it that a Dutchman and Frenchman met at one point and walked opposite directions. When they met again on the other side, that became the border. We drove from the Dutch side to the French side and stopped at a street market in Marigot, which I think is the capitol of the French side.  Not everything is open, and I just have no interest in souvenirs ☹️.

Our next stop was Mano Beach, which is where the planes land and take off  right over the heads of beach goers. Apparent the big planes come in between 1:30 and 4:30 in the afternoon. We were there about 10:00am, so we did not see any plane activity, but we did see the airport. 

Mayo Beach – smaller than I imagined
Sign warning of jets flying right over the top of you!

We were driven back to the Dutch side of the island to visit Toppers rum distillery and get some free rum tastings.

Some of the rums were very good, but we did not buy any. We did have some rum infused gelato though. Our last stop was an Amsterdam cheese shop where we were given samples of cheese. Dave liked the Gouda and bought some. Then it was back to the ship. One of the people on front of us was carrying a big box from Toppers, so I assume he bought a few bottles of rum! When we went through security, they gave us some static about the cheese we bought, but we showed them it was vacuum packed and they let us through. The island is very pretty, and the water surrounding it gorgeous. 

Beautiful water

We saw one huge house on the French side – definitely some money. However, as typical of the snobbish French….if you ask them a question in English, they respond in French. As Dave says, if it wasn’t for the US, the French would be speaking German!

Back onboard, we had a light lunch, after the rum, gelato and cheese….  We had a message on our phones that one of our tracelets wasn’t working, so we had to go to guest services to change them out. Then we went to the Relaxation room which is reserved for “Aqua” guests. They have comfortable loungers, water and tea, and a view out the front of the ship. I don’t think it is used much, which makes it even better! Dave snoozed 😴 and I worked on my blog. We could go to an Abba trivia, but since we really don’t know much about Abba, we stay in the relaxation room.

Had a wonderful dinner in Murano – Chateaubriand . Made a $30 donation in the casino ☹️. Listened to our favorite band, the Kickstarters. Then we got a nightcap and headed to our room!

August 13, 2021:  We intended to get up early enough to go to Blu (our “exclusive” restaurant for breakfast, but woke up late and had to hit the buffet. We went to trivia, and did pretty good! Didn’t win of course, but when we get over 50%, we feel good. Today and tomorrow are sea days, so we will spend most of our time relaxing, visiting bars for Mer Soleil wine, and trivia. Being in Aqua Class gives us access to a Relaxation Room, which has comfortable lounging chairs and a view over the bow of the ship. We are disappointed with our stateroom in that it is under the treadmills. So at 6:00am, the heathy people onboard start their routines and we can hear the pounding. It wakes us up, but we try not to get out of bed. 

We are watching the weather in Englewood, as tropical storm Fred is heading our way. 

We have had an issue with our bank/credit card/celebrity. It is difficult to contact the bank and credit card when you are at sea. My wonderful husband bought me some jewelry which put us over our credit card limit, only because of timing. We tried to adjust our credit card payment with the bank, but the bank app wouldn’t let us. More complicated, and a long story. When we thought we had things straightened out, it turned out that Celebrity has put through our jewelry charge twice! We have been assured that the final charge will only go through once… we will see…

Another announcement by the captain that someone onboard has tested positive for Covid, but those in close contact were all tested and came back negative. The ship has a separate location where they isolate people who test positive. I think it is part of learning to deal with this virus.

Tonight is a “chic” night, so I’ll be able to wear my new jewels 😁. It is also lobster night….unfortunately, Dave and I both thought our lobster was rubbery ☹️. Instead of dessert, we had a cheese plate, which was very good. We went to the production show, “Life”and enjoyed it. Then we went to the foyer and listened to a tribute to Queen, sat at the martini bar, and after Queen, listened to a DJ.

August 14, 2021: Got up in time to go to Blu for breakfast, and went back to our room for a bit, waiting for the 10:15 talk by the cruise director, Eddy Jenkins’s. His talk is about 10 things you didn’t know about ship life. While waiting, there was a knock on our door, and Denis from Customer Services, who helped us with our credit card issue sent us a bottle of wine and chocolate dipped strawberries! I feel all the crew has been over the top friendly and helpful. Eddy Jenkins is a great cruise director – probably the best we’ve ever had on a ship. He is very entertaining and naturally funny. After the talk, it was trivia time – we seem to be doing a little better – but of course we never win ☹️. Time to pack ☹️.

We had dinner in Blu – my last chance for escargot. Dave and I both had “Duck confit ravioli” for dinner, and cherries jubilee for dessert…. Our last night splurge. After dinner, we stopped at the jewelry store to pick up my appraisals (😁), and then went to the show in the theater. One of the Celebrity singers, Brianna Faulk, sang Tina Turner songs. She is very talented. We would have enjoyed the show more if we recognized more of the songs, but she ended with a fabulous rendition of “Proud Mary”. 

August 15, 2021:  Debarkation was uneventful as was our drive home. We do not normally cruise in the Caribbean because most of the port visits are to beaches, and we live in a beach town! This cruise was a great opportunity for us to get away because of the pandemic. It is great that ships are sailing again. We enjoyed being on the cruise ship, and for me, no cooking or cleaning for two weeks, and the bonus due to Dave’s hot credit card 😁. They really try to keep the ship clean, with people wiping things over & over. All the crew wore masks, and I noticed some of the waitstaff wearing double masks. We felt very safe. I think the risk is in the ports. Unvaccinated people were only allowed to do ship excursions. Unfortunately, there are always a few people that think the rules do not apply to them. On our excursion in St. Maarten, we were told masks were required by St. Maarten. Unfortunately, there was one couple that never wore a mask, and apparently no one said anything to them. 

South America Cruise and Visit to Machu Picchu – just pre-COVID19 February to March, 2020

2/15 – 16/2020: Fly from Miami to Puerto Iguazu, Argentina

2/16 – 18/2020: Hotel Saint George, Puerto Iguazu. Visit Iguazu Falls.

2/18/2020: Fly from Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires, Argentina

2/18 – 20/2020: Sileo Hotel, Buenos Aires

2/20 – 3/5/2020: Coral Princess Cruise, Stateroom A618

2/20 – 21/2020: On Coral Princess in Buenos Aires

2/22/2020: Montevideo, Uruguay

2/23/2020: At Sea

2/24/2020: Puerto Madryn, Argentina

2/25/2020: At Sea

2/26/2020: Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

2/27/2020: Cruising Cape Horn

2/28/2020: Ushuaia, Argentina

3/1/2020: Cruising Amalia Glacier, Chile

3/2/2020: At Sea

3/3/2020: Puerto Montt, Chile

3/4/2020: At Sea

3/5/2020: San Antonio, Chile – disembark and travel to Santiago, Chile. Hotel Loreto.

3/5/2020: San Antonio, Chile – disembark and travel to Santiago, Chile. Hotel Loreto.

3/5/2020 Disembark Coral Princess, tour Valparaiso, drive to Santiago to Hotel Loreto

3/6/2020 Fly from Santiago to Cusco, Peru. Hotel Royal Inkatha Pisaq

3/7/2020 Tour Pisaq & Ollantaymbo, travel by train to Aguas Calientes, Hotel Hatun Inti Classic

3/8/2020 Tour Machu Picchu, travel by train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo, Hotel Pakaritampu

3/9/2020 Tour Maras Moray & Chinchero, travel to Cusco, Peru, Hotel Rumi Punku

3/10/2020 Tour Cusco, Peruvian Cooking Class, Hotel Rumi Punku

3/11 -14/2020 Fly from Cusco, Peru to Santiago, Chile, Hotel Loreto

3/14 – 15/2020 Santiago to Miami!

3/15 – 30/2020 Celebrity Eclipse – Santiago to San Diego – Cancelled due to COVID 19 Pandemic

February 15 – 16, 2020

We left Englewood about 9:00am on Saturday. We had to return the rental car before 1:30PM as it was a 1 day rental. We got to Miami, turned in the car, and made it to the airport by about 2:00pm. We had lunch, checked in and boarded our 9 hour flight to Buenos Aires. It was an overnight flight, in economy with tight seats and a baby that screamed. Not much fun. We had breakfast on the plane about 3:30am, which was 1:30am in Englewood. Argentina is 2 hours ahead of Florida time wise. We arrived about 4:30. Our ongoing flight to Iguazu Falls had been changed many times over the last year. Finally we got it changed to an 8:50am flight out of the same airport in Buenos Aires where we arrived, which was not the original situation. We arrived in Buenos Aires, made it through immigration, collected our bags, found our new terminal 1/4 mile away with no transport other than our feet, and checked into our next flight from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazu, by about 6:00am. We were dead tired because we got next to no sleep on the flight to Buenos Aires. We managed to make our flight, and the good news/bad news was that it was a very old plane. However, the leather seats were much more comfortable, more room between the seats, and no screaming babies.

We arrived on time in Puerto Iguazu. We are booked at Hotel Saint George and one of the amenities is free transport from the airport to the hotel (remember this amenity). We are dog tired as it is over 24 hours with no good sleep. The plan is to check in, rest for the afternoon, check out the town and where we need to catch transportation to the falls in the morning. I have researched some trails I want to do, so have a general plan in place.

Plan B: so the reason our hotel gives free transport from the airport to the hotel is to give the transport company an opportunity to pitch their tours. Remember, we are dog tired. They have two tours that work really well for us – the first is a half day tour to the Brazialian side which we can do this afternoon, and a full day tour tomorrow. After some discussion, we think, what the heck. Much easier to go with a guide, and didn’t think we could see the Brazialian side without an expensive visa.


So, this afternoon, we visited the Brazialian side of Iguazu Falls, and we are so glad we did. The views are phenomenal. Most of the falls are on the Argentinian side, but better viewed from Brazil. We hiked a little trail, and the falls and the views just kept getting better and better. Our last viewpoint was “Devil’s Throat” or Diablo, the longest, continuous waterfall, which is unbelievable. There are many, many waterfalls in this National Park which is located in both Brazil and Argentina.

Taking pictures of falls over and over is like taking pictures of long views of anything. So while Dave and I took over 40 pictures today, I’m just going to share two. The first is a picture of us at the falls! By the way, it is a really crappy day. It is rainy and we have our ponchos on. Tomorrow the weather is suppose to be better. The second may be a video of the falls – seems to show up as a video on my pad but only as a photo on Dave’s laptop.

In our rain ponchos at the falls.
Photo (above) of the falls or download video with sound on link below
Video of the falls

Our hotel has a restaurant, so we went there for dinner. As we walk in, they are seating a bus load of Asian tourists….could not help but think of the Coronavirus. We ordered a seafood for two grilled dinner. There were 3 fillets of an unknown to us fish, a huge fillet of salmon, 2 large shrimp prawns, chunks of grilled tomato, eggplant, potato and 4 coblets of corn.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 77A97C7C-BFE7-4D28-ABE1-94BA8BA168D0-768x1024.jpeg
Forgot to take the picture until I was almost done eating 😁



Finally time for a much needed sleep. Tomorrow we will visit the Argentine side of Iguazu Falls. I asked our guide how to pronounce Iguazu and it sounded to me like “E goo Sue”, but I have heard multiple pronunciations.

February 17, 2020 – Argentina side of Iguazu Falls

Plastic seems to be king in Argentina. When we arrived, we wanted to get some Argentinian pesos, so we sought out an ATM. Unfortunately we packed our conversion info, so it was not readily available. We took out the max on the screen, which was 2000 pesos, and were charged a service fee of 379 pesos. That was a bit of a shock to see approximately 19% fee! As it turns out, 2000 pesos is about $32. But, we have been able to use our credit card for everything, even bottles of water. And, the US dollar is also widely accepted. Our seafood dinner for two last night was 2400 pesos, less 20% for our hotel discount =1920 pesos, or about $31 (for dinner for 2!). We are finding food to be inexpensive. Each time we buy something, the big price number in pesos always freaks me out.


We were up early Monday morning for our tour – 6:00am – so we could eat breakfast and meet our guide at 7:50am. It looks like a beautiful day with plenty of sunshine, but hot. Our guide shows up in a big bus, and several people from our hotel are going on the same tour….no wonder with that free transportation from the airport. Lots of other people, from other hotels, are already on the bus.


It is a short drive to the Argentina side of the national park. Today we see lots of wildlife, and up close. Some were more up close than we wanted. There are raccoon type animals – they have a different name in Spanish, but the guide calls them raccoons when he is speaking English to us. They are aggressive if you have food. We had a few problems mid-morning when we grabbed a snack. We were literally kicking at them, which didn’t phase them a bit, to get away from them. We were able to get away by going inside the snack shop, which really doesn’t have a place to eat. An interesting experience. We saw them going after coffee that someone had momentarily set on a table. Obviously, they have been fed by humans and now are aggressive to get the food. But I digress…

Today we are going to walk 3 different trails in the park.


The first trail is the best one, as we go to see the Devils Throat waterfall from an Argentinian perspective. We walked to a train, and then rode an open train about 1.5 miles. Then we walk through a jungle, on paved pathways. We saw lots of raccoons, monkeys, and a caiman. A caiman is like an alligator, only smaller. He was right next to the path, laying on some lily pads in the water. All the people walking by did not phase him a bit. The monkeys were in the jungle, but moving too quick for any pictures. We get to the end of the path and have a beautiful view of “Devils Throat” which is the biggest waterfall.

The second trail is called the upper circuit and you view the falls from the top. As we walked, we definitely had some beautiful views of the falls.Walking above the falls let’s you view the slowly moving water which will soon go tumbling over the falls. As we walked along, we saw many huge spiders in their webs just off the path. Our guide said these are called golden spiders because when the sun shines on their web, it looks like gold.

After our second trail, it is about 1:00 and our guide directs us to a restaurant, supposedly with air conditioning. We were very hot and sweaty, and air conditioning sounded real good about now. Well, the air conditioning units were fighting a losing battle with people going in and out the doors almost continuously, and some people leaving the doors wide open. It was cooler inside, but barely. Because of the heat and activity, we did not feel like eating much. We did have a snack, and drank lots of fluids.


Most of the people in our tour group had elected to do a boat trip on the river, like Maid of the Mist at Niagra, which includes getting very wet. Dave did not want to get wet, so we went on our third hike. The third hike is the lower circuit and you were able to see the falls from below and watch the water falling. This trail had more ups and downs where the first two trails were very flat. Again, some beautiful views of the falls.

The first photo is to illustrate how there are many waterfalls.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 5500F715-4798-449D-95F6-FB76B486D77D.jpeg

Beautiful view of Devils Throat from our third hike on lower circuit.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 8E9A79E4-1831-487D-95B7-E222A0400EBB-rotated.jpeg

Various pictures of some of the wildlife we saw.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F5B1F2EE-6B63-4AC1-A6B3-EFA44B469889-rotated.jpeg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 21FA8BAD-F9F8-4FC3-9CF6-91FB9891F741-1024x768.jpeg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is DEBAFE9B-D377-49B7-B8F3-122CD76E0392-1024x843.jpeg

Look close for the caiman in and on the lily pads.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A5379C9D-CED4-47CE-896B-E61915FE5471-768x1024.jpeg

I was just amazed at how close we could get and the wildlife did not seem to be afraid of humans. We were warned many, many times to not try and touch the raccoons, with pictures of people who had been bit or scratched. So maybe the wildlife is not afraid of humans because humans are afraid of them!

February 18 – 19. 2020 – Iguazu to Buenos Aires

Tuesday was pretty much a travel day. We flew from Iguazu to Buenos Aires. So, some notes about Iguazu….there are lots of speed bumps! Taxis are pretty reasonable…from hotel to airport was 800 pesos, or about $13usd. We were very satisfied with our hotel in Puerto Iguazu. The staff was very helpful and spoke English very well. We have noticed lots of children and families traveling with children. The school year in Argentina runs March to December, so the kids are on their summer break…it is summer in this part of the world.


Arriving in a Buenos Aires, we land at a different airport – probably their original airport. We had to climb down stairs and take a bus to the terminal. This was true of our flights from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazu, too. We hired a private car to take us to our hotel and the taxi fare was the equivalent of $13. We are staying at the Hotel Sileo which is across the street from the Recoleta Cemetary, where Eva Peron is buried. We have a view of the cemetery from our room 😀. After checking in and asking the desk person a thousand questions, we set out to find a few essentials….wine, soda, snacks and a SIM card. We are successful!


We did not have much for lunch, and by 6:00pm we were pretty hungry. Dave had identified a few steak houses, but Argentinians are a late night crowd, and most of the restaurants don’t open until 7:00pm or 7:30pm. Our hotel knew of one that was open all the time and close by. We are in a touristy area, by the Recoleta Cemetary. We had a great dinner, and very reasonable: two appetizers, we shared an 800gram steak served with bacon, some veggies and French fries. We had a bottle of water, a bottle of wine, and two more glasses of wine (!)….all for about $42.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is EC490E9E-2AF2-4CBA-A8F6-919174988E04.jpeg

The table behind us was a family and the man had ordered a beer. It came in a tall container, holding 2 liters, with an ice cylinder in the center. I hadn’t seen anything like this before. Dave asked the man if we could take a photo, and he was very accommodating, moving chairs and anything that would block the photo.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 1CF8AC02-4F45-4DFB-86F1-7DA13518F28B-768x1024.jpeg

Obviously, he drank most of the beer!

The people we have met have been very kind, helpful, and informative. The guy who checked us in at our hotel would have been the exception – Dave said he needed a personality adjustment.


Wednesday – Our plan is to visit the sites in the area called “Centro”. We decided to take the metro/subway. The ticket window lady called someone who spoke English to help us. We had to buy a card, and then “fill it” with enough fare to complete our journey. That done, we had to figure out which direction to go. Dave speaks a very little Spanish, and I speak none. But, we asked passers by and they always pointed us in the right direction and which stop where we wanted to get off. We even had to change lines! But all went well and we found our first destination, Teatro Colon.

Teatro Colon is the Buenos Aires opera house. It is among the worlds top five opera houses, and claims to be number one in acoustics. We were able to get a tour in English, along with about 30 other people! Our guide spoke very good English and was pretty easy to understand. The opera house was built over a 20 year period and contains materials like Italian marble, Parisian stained glass windows, and Venetian mosaics. One reason it took so long to build was that the first architect died, and he was only 44 years old. They found another architect who died under mysterious circumstances – also at age 44. So there was some difficulty to find another architect because of the fear of a curse of dying at 44 years of age. Eventually they found a Belgium architect who was in his 50’s, and they were able to complete the building in 1908. One reason all the different materials is because of the different architects. In the entryway are Venetian mosaics, which are about 1/2 inch square. These were all set by hand. There are several stained glass windows in the entryway and areas surrounding the outside of the theatre, with musical themes of course. One long, large lounge room was only for those with the most expensive tickets. This room had beautiful chandeliers. Dave got so enthralled with taking pictures here that he, and 4 others, got separated from our group and had to ask someone where the group went. We entered the theater, which is 7 stories tall. The stage area is as big as the seating area. The opera season runs from March through December. It was important to be seen. The wealthy ladies of the time were taken with France and wore all the French gowns of the day. However, our guide noted that French seasons were opposite Argentinian seasons. So these fashionistas would wear French winter gowns during Argentinian summers, and French summer gowns during Argentinian winters because they had to be seen wearing the current fashions.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 61D13A72-9189-4EB7-96CD-A23E7345AAB4.jpeg
Lounge for wealthy patrons of the opera
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is DBFA94A6-38AA-459B-9F40-8B4EB6253FE9.jpeg
Inside the theater

The acoustics are so good that Luciano Pavarotti said, “the Colon has only one flaw: the acoustics are so good that every mistake can be heard”.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 7DFAADB2-7C14-421E-A4FF-64EC60224399-768x1024.jpeg
Vent under seat that accounts for excellent acoustics

For some reason, I had trouble posting the pictures of the lounge, and inside the theater. As I work with this website, hopefully I will get better.

After leaving the opera house, we walked to the “Plaza de Mayo”. It was constructed in 1589 and has been the setting for Argentina’s most politically turbulent moments, including the uprising against Spanish colonial rule on May 25, 1810 – hence its name. In the center is a statue, and around the statue are painted white headscarves representing the Mothers of May Square who have marched here every Thursday at 3:30pm for nearly four decades. These are housewives and mothers, turned militant activists, who demand justice for the people who “disappeared” during Argentina’s dictatorial military government, 1976 – 1983.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A770716E-1F52-4F38-B7EA-947A6CA89081.jpeg
Painted headscarves

At the East end of Plaza de Mayo is the Casa Rosado, better known as the Pink House. The building houses the government’s executive branch and was built in the late 19th century. The president of Argentina works here but lives elsewhere. The nation’s flag flys above the Pink House and a small banner beneath the nation’s flag indicates the president is in. The Pink House was painted pink as a symbol of the unification between two warring political factions: the federales, whose color was red, and the unitarios, whose color was white. Legend has it that the original paint was made by mixing whitewash with bull’s blood.

The balcony of the Pink House faces Plaza de Mayo and is a presidential podium. This is the balcony where Evita rallied the “descamisados”, meaning the working class, who were in Plaza de Mayo, and where Madonna sang “Don’t cry for me Argentina”.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F03AC958-070F-4AFE-B16F-D0BFB1C656C2.jpeg
The Pink House with Evita’s balcony (with 5 arches) above the big center arch.

Just off the north west end of the plaza, on top of one of the museums, are two figures who ring a bell at the top of each hour.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 3E9C0F8F-C522-404A-9FF9-B4148C134695.jpeg
(Another problem photo) Two figures ringing the bell to announce the time.



We visited a free museum in back of the Pink House, but unfortunately, all the descriptions were in Spanish, so it was a quick visit. Inside the museum were mementos of all the presidents. The displays includes clothing, china, etc. There was a large painting of Juan and Evita Peron, and their 1956 (?) Cadillac was on display. There were a few other, much older, presidential carriages on display, too. This museum was build on the foundations of a fort that had originally sat here, and we could see parts of the original walls.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 6081922E-A5C7-4656-9235-982569721303-768x1024.jpeg
Juan and Evita Peron

After a lunch break of a shared pizza and 2 glasses of beer (for about $8), we walked to El Zanjon de Granados. This house is now a museum, and we had a tour in English. The street it is on was once a small river, the Zanjon, where the first, unsuccessful attempt to found Buenos Aires took place in 1536. At that time, the house was very close to the bay. When the current owner bought and decided to develop it, he discovered all sorts of things below: pottery, cutlery, foundations of past constructions and a 500 foot network of tunnels that took over 25 years to excavate. The house was originally built by a wealthy Spanish family, and had 2 cisterns, 3 lounges, besides bedrooms, bathrooms and a kitchen. Records have shown this Spanish family had servants and a slave. In the 1800’s, Buenos Aires was devastated by disease, especially yellow fever. All the wealthy people in this area moved, trying to escape the disease. The house was subsequently turned into a tenement house, housing over 20 families, with 2 bathrooms and one kitchen. The tunnel network had been built before the Spanish family built their house, by people living along the Zanjon River. Each owner built the structure over the river to try to prevent flooding. It was very interesting because by visiting this house, we heard about the history of Buenos Aires from the residents perspective.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 985FC893-E6C8-42FE-BCC3-9D903AEA9384.jpeg
Excavated tunnel

February 20, 2020 – Buenos Aires

We had an exciting adventure today…..but not until early afternoon.

We were very happy with both of our hotels so far. We do not stay in expensive hotels, and amenities are not that important to us. First and foremost we are looking for a clean bed and bathroom. Hotel Saint George in Puerto Iguazu had several amenities including a pool, hot tub, spa services, an exercise room, a bar and a restaurant. We only used the last two ☹️. Our hotel in Buenos Aires was Sileo Hotel, and it promotes itself as a boutique hotel. The big draw for us was the proximity to Recoleta Cemetary and the cruise ship terminal. It had a bar, but we did not see anybody at the bar. We did have a balcony with a view of the Cemetary, which is a bit of a sore point for me. We reserved a deluxe room with a view of the cemetery. It is a small hotel, I think 8 floors and only 3 rooms to a floor. When we checked in, I noticed the clerk had a paper with our information, and 702 was crossed out and 202 entered. The next paper with someone else’s information had 202 crossed out and 702 entered. We got downgraded from the 7th floor, which would have had a much better view, down to the 2nd floor. I asked for a higher room, but he claimed none were available. Hmmmm…. We did have a view over the Cemetary wall, just not as good as it could have been. Both hotels served breakfasts with scrambled eggs, meat and lots of other goodies.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 1BCD6463-96D6-4C63-99FF-D7C6E0C1473A.jpeg
Panoramic view of Recoleta Cemetary from our hotel room balcony.

This morning we check out of our hotel. We are going to visit the Cemetary and the Eva Peron Museum. The hotel will store our luggage, and after our sightseeing, we’ll go back to the hotel, get our luggage and a taxi to the ship.

The big draw to the Cemetary is Eva Peron’s grave. The Recoleta Cemetary is the most expensive real estate in Buenos Aires. The mausoleum monuments are practically on top of each other, they are packed in. There are more than 6,400 elaborate vaulted tombs and majestic mausoleums, 70 of which have been declared historic monuments. Some are in very good shape while others are crumbling. Some have doors with windows and you can look inside. Sometimes you can see caskets, usually on shelves. Some have little chapels. Many have a narrow stairway going down to a lower level. I imagine big families needed more space for family members. While writing about it seems morbid, it is interesting and some of the monuments are quite beautiful. Some had stained glass windows. There are lots of graves of generals and Presidents. Our Fodor’s book on Buenos Aires had a map of the Cemetary and some of the graves were highlighted. I think one of the most interesting is Eva Duerte Peron’s, of course. She died very young, 33 years old, of Uterine cancer. Because of the political environment, her body was stolen and not returned for 18 years. She is buried in her family’s monument, and not with Juan Peron.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 47712F8D-1D3D-49AF-8F03-4B013B837E82-e1582228043254.jpeg
Evita Peron’s entombed in her family monument.

We saw the tomb of Rufina Cambaceres, a girl who died twice. Entombed on her 19th birthday in 1902, she awoke inside her casket and clawed the top open. Unfortunately she then died of a heart attack before she could be rescued.



This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 836BB255-7550-42EC-959F-6DB7A9667380-e1582229011863.jpeg
Rufina Cambaceres, the girl who died twice

One last monument is said to be the most monumental sepulcher:

Dorrego Ortiz Basualdo’s most monumental sepulcher complete with chandelier
Recoleta’s most monumental sepulcher, complete with chandelier, belongs to landowner Dorrego Ortiz Basualdo

After the Cemetary, we walked to the Eva Peron museum. We did not take any pictures here. As we walked through, there were descriptions in English. While Eva was really a young woman when married to the president, Juan Peron, she championed women’s right to vote, labor rights, and ran a charitable foundation. Women in Argentina did not get the right to vote until 1961. Previous First Ladies of Argentina did not speak out, but stayed in the background. Dave and I thought her popularity was similar to that of a Princess Diana or Jackie Kennedy. Eva toured Europe and South America promoting Argentina and even signing trade agreements on behalf of Argentina. She was born in poverty, and lost her father at a young age, leaving her mother as the sole breadwinner with 5 children. While her political base was the blue collar worker, Eva seemed to enjoy the good life. Many of her dresses were displayed, and it was documented that she liked the high priced designers. No pictures here, but Dave and I plan to read up more on Argentina politics of the day. It is curious why her body was stolen, and why she was not buried with Juan Peron. Juan had 3 wives – Eva was #2.


Here is our adventure of the day…..After visiting the museum, we walked back to the hotel, collected our bags, and the hotel staff called a cab for us. This was about 1:15pm. The cab arrives, and does not speak English. He keeps babbling to us in Spanish and we keep telling him we don’t speak Spanish. I had the address of the port, and showed it to him. He seemed to understand where we were going, but Dave and I were kinda eyeballing each other. We drive for awhile, and we see some large ships in the distance, so we figure we’re going the right way. Then he starts slowing down, and gradually pulls over to the curb. He is babbling in Spanish and we have no clue what is going on. Dave says to me, “this is not good”. The driver gets out of the cab, and so do we. Finally we figure out that he has run out of gas!!!!!!! He’s gesturing that the entrance is not too far away, but we’re not seeing it. He is pointing to the left and we see our ship to the right. The driver takes my bags and starts pulling them down the street and Dave and I are following….I’m sure our little parade looked comical. We go about a block, and I happen to see another taxi, so I yelled at our first driver to stop, and the second guy figures out what is going on and said he’d take us. So we get everything into the second cab, who drives about another block or two, turns and enters the port. So, yes, we could have walked from where he ran out of gas, but we didn’t know. We were just glad it all worked out. Even though it was a short ride, Dave gave the 2nd driver a nice tip.


We boarded the ship, and spent most of the afternoon relaxing. We have signed up to go to a tango show in the evening with 6 other people I met on Cruise Critic message boards. Buenos Aires is a late night town, and our driver is going to pick us up between 8:00pm and 8:30pm. The driver arrives in a mini van, and proceeds to stop at 3 other hotels picking up more people for the tango show. The tango show is at a restaurant, Cafe de Las Angelos. It is a fairly large theater, and we are seated to the far right of the stage, but could see pretty well. First we are served dinner (it is probably 10:00pm by this time). We have a choice of appetizer, main, and a dessert. Dave had empanadas, trout and chocolate mousse. I had empanadas, steak and a dessert with berries and cream. Most at our table were drinking red wine, and they just left us bottles, so pretty free flowing. Dave and one other person drank white wine, and did not get as frequent refills. The dinner was very good. After dinner, the show began, and while we could not understand the singing, because it was in Spanish, the dancing was really good. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed the show. The show ended about 12:15am, so we got back to the ship pretty late.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A8D9E004-0F7A-47FB-A420-6EC191840CB8.jpeg
Our dinner companions from the ship: Heather and Grant from Canada, Jane & Dave, Mike and Margaret from England, and Mike and Joanne from Ohio.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 7F9DC2CB-3664-43FB-ACB4-4B481FF1C1DF.jpeg
Tango!
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 3CEC82DB-AB77-4219-A1D5-71F77E80C343.jpeg
Tango!
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 033CE632-8FBF-42AE-804F-EFE5FD2840F2.jpeg
Tango!

The tango can be very sultry, but also elegant and beautiful. We all commented that the dancers were very flexible and learning the tango is not possible for us mature people!

February 21 – 22, 2020 – Buenos Aires to Montevideo, Uruguay

Friday: After getting in late from our tango show last night, we were not moving fast this morning. The ship is spending the day in port, and leaving Buenos Aires at 5:30pm.

We have done a lot of sightseeing already in Buenos Aires, and today we are getting off the ship to get a little exercise, and do some shopping. Dave likes the little packages of Kleenex, so we will look for those. I am a bit frustrated because we have the beverage package but it does not include canned soda, only fountain soda, and the only diet and caffeine free sodas are in cans 😢. We will look for some Sprite Zero or diet 7-up. Our last item is a strap for my sunglasses because the one I brought from home, broke. We walk off the ship and towards the city and we quickly found all the items on our shopping list! We decided to walk a little more and found some parks. The first thing we see is a tall monument, and we check it out.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is C86496E0-9091-491A-86C0-A7740EE98977-e1582304159234.jpeg

This monument was given to Buenos Aires by its British citizens. Construction started in 1910 and the opening ceremony was in 1916. We paid $100 pesos (~$1.62) each to ride the elevator to the top. There is a walkway just under the clock and you can walk all the way around. There was a guide, but he was speaking Spanish. There are nice views from the top and the east view looks down on another park that holds the grave of an Argentinian unknown soldier. There were 2 military people guarding the grave, but unlike the US unknown soldier, the Argentian guards stood watch. We wandered around the park a little more, and then headed back to the ship. We passed a wine store, and of course we stopped in and bought a bottle. I guess we smuggled it onboard because security is done by the port and not the ship.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 257C82FE-B3D3-4AB8-A09F-ED6BE45C2FA1.jpeg
Tomb of Unknown Soldier


We went to our elite happy hour, then dinner. We spent the evening listening to Sammy in Crooner’s, the martini bar. He was playing the piano and singing songs from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s. We’ll probably go back, as he was very entertaining.

Saturday: we are in Montevideo, Uruguay. Uruguay seems to be a liberal country when compared to its neighbors of Brazil and Argentina. We went on a “free” walking tour….the guide is paid in whatever tip you want to give him. It was a bit difficult to understand some of his commentary, and many of the people he mentioned, we were unfamiliar with, besides having long Spanish names. So I did not learn much about the history of Uruguay. Some of the tidbits I gleaned were that unlike Brazil and Argentina, Uruguay’s national religion is not catholic, and probably 50% of the population is atheist or agnostic. Part of the reason for this is they did not limit immigration. There were immigrants from Africa, and those that were not sold off to slavery stayed in Uruguay. According to our guide, many of the people of Uruguay have African blood. However, we observed very, very few black people. Uruguay was the first country in South America to sever relations between church and state, the first South American country to give women the right to vote, to permit same sex marriage, to legalize marijuana, and to enact a generous social welfare program. Polls consistently rate Montevideo as having the highest quality of life of any city in South America. According to our guide, Uruguay consumes more beef per capita than any other country, and is also #1 in “mate” consumption. Mate is a caffeinated hot drink that of course I had to try. I saw it being consumed in Iguazu, Buenos Aires and Montevideo, but did not know how to get some. Basically is is a cup filled with special herbs with hot water poured over the herbs to seep like tea. Then you drink it through a special straw that filters out the herbs. Our walking guide referred me to a coffee house where I could finally try it. Mate is very common among residents of the South American countries we have visited, but rare to find on a menu.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 48363AF2-4D97-404D-A58D-29541DCE5ADF-e1582400073721.jpeg
Drinking Mate…wine belongs to you know who

We did not find Montevideo as nice as Buenos Aires, but we had a short visit, and were mostly in the old part of town. We wanted to eat lunch here because they supposedly have great beef. There is an old building near the harbor that has 14 restaurants under one roof, where beef is cooked over large fires. It looks like an old train station. It is smoky inside, because of the beef being cooked over open wood fires. We picked one and ordered lunch. We ordered rib eye and told the waitress we would share. The rib eye was so huge, it could have fed at least 4 people. Unfortunately, we found the beef very tough and chewy. Another couple from the ship sat next to us (they had a different waiter), supposedly ordered the same dish, and said their beef was very tender and delicious. To add insult to injury, we ordered a bottle of wine, but Dave liked the Argentine wines much better.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F6774792-7F84-45F5-95E1-65561B4FF578.jpeg
Grocery store we passed while walking in Montevideo
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A7F872D0-603C-4ECC-91EA-EB182865749B-e1582400249109.jpeg
Building just off Independence Plaza, designed by famous architect, whose name we missed ☹️
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 85C9D348-87D0-47B3-836F-CD3DCB90E932.jpeg
Montevideo’s opera house, which our guide said also has great acoustics. We did not go inside.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is DB1EE9D5-7DB6-45C4-8A30-720C81C30E91-e1582400436635.jpeg
Cathedral in Montevideo

After dinner tonight we’ll probably go see Sammy in Crooners again. He is going to do a couple of music trivia games tonight. Dave will be good at that – not me. Tomorrow is a sea day, so we will rest. We have been walking a lot, getting between 15,000 and 20,000 steps a day. It will be nice to relax.

February 23 – 24, 2020 – Sea Day and Puerto Madryn

Sunday -A sea day! We did not do too much…mostly read, walked the ship and basically rested. Late morning we attended a lecture on Port Madryn. Our cruise critic meet & greet was held in the late afternoon. Several of the ships officers attended and introduced themselves. It is a formal night so after the meet & greet we changed into our dressier attire, not formal by any means. People wear everything from formal tuxedos and gowns, suits and dresses, t-shirts with a tuxedo design, jeans, pants and ladies pantsuits…..just about anything goes. We ran into the people we met on the Montevideo walking tour, Gail & Gary, that ate steak next to us ….they had the good steak. We sat down and chatted with them for awhile. They’re from Wisconsin, but spend several months a year in the Villages, in Florida. He plays softball so they schedule their vacations around his softball season. He is missing 6 games this trip – made me think of our Stillwater friend, Mikey. We have changed our dining from anytime to fixed. When we went to anytime dinner, there was a huge line and a long wait. After awhile, a couple of waiters came and got us and took us to the set time dining room, where there were several open tables. The late fixed dining time is 7:30pm which works well for us because we can go to the Elite happy hour which is from 4:30 to 6:30pm. We can get a drink and a little snack to hold us over until dinner time. We went to the show which was a production show. Generally we like the production shows, but we did not like this one. The name of the show was Silk, and it was about a man who saved a bird from hunters. The bird later shows up at his house in human form, so he doesn’t realize it is the bird. The bird uses its feathers to weave fabric, but the man doesn’t know the bird is using its feathers. There is music, and snippets of songs we knew. The acoustics were bad, so it took us awhile to recognize the songs. Anyway, we were glad when the show was over.

Monday – Puerto Madryn is in Patagonia. We looked very hard to find something interesting in this port. There was one full day shore excursion, but it included 1.5 hours each way riding on a bus, which just doesn’t appeal to us. So we decide to just get off the boat and see what we could find. It is not very nice in the morning…temps in the 50’s, strong winds, and rain threatening. There are huge tides, so the ship is docked at the end of a long pier, 2 km per our port lecturer yesterday.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is EEAEBAF2-0BB5-4BDD-B00B-9A44EEE367E8-e1582573880740.jpeg
Tide is going out

There are shuttle buses to take us from the ship to the shore. Dave has a map, showing a mall, so we head there first. A couple is doing a free tango show which we stop and watch.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 65974889-8D58-4BD3-8C69-36E654730D8E.jpeg

The mall is pretty small, but has maybe 20 stores on 2 floors. The 3rd floor is a restaurant, and a large play area for kids and teens. I saw a historical museum shown on the map, so we walk there – but it is closed. The port lecturer had mentioned a city tour bus, so we set off to to find it. It was on a train – bus vehicle and did a 1.25 hour tour for $15USD per person. It actually was pretty good. A guide gave descriptions in English and Spanish. English was her second language, so she was a bit hard to understand.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is ED1652BB-A212-46CE-8C39-7CAFD48D8D29.jpeg

Puerto Madryn was settled by Welsh people who arrived in 1865. Knowing this, I wonder why there is not more English spoken here. The indigenous people, Tehuelche Indians were already in the area and helped the Welsh survive. The Welsh people were very hardworking. In 1972, a factory producing aluminum was built outside the city. This plant, which covers a very large area, operates 24 hours a day. The city has grown out ward all the way to the plant, and developed since the plant opened. The four things that contribute to Puerto Madryn economy are Aluminum, tourism, fishing and rock (which is cut and used in buildings).


From March to December, Puerto Madryn is a great place for whale watching. There is a 2 mile long wide pedestrian walkway along the bay where in whale watching season, you can actually see the whales cavorting in the water. There are also sea lions and dolphins. We are not visiting during the wildlife viewing season, so we do not get to see the whales, sea lions or dolphins. During the wildlife viewing season, you can snorkel with the sea lions. Puerto Madryn is also well known for diving. There are several structures out in the bay that our guide said were diving platforms. Our guide pointed out trees along the walkway that had been carved. After our city tour, we walked back and took photos of some of the carved trees.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 94B415C5-59EC-4954-B0DC-EAD72A2DB88C-e1582573796973.jpeg
Serpents?
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is E8B96B39-43C8-4D44-873C-42A5DCA84C99-e1582573835801.jpeg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 7C5E5BD8-C91C-4108-AD39-A337401FD4FE-e1582573857212.jpeg

Besides the historical museum being closed, we noticed a lot of the stores were closed. Our city tour guide mentioned that today was a holiday. We never found out what holiday, but it did explain why we were not finding much to do. The city tour saved our day.


Gasoline – in Buenos Aires we saw stations advertising gas for 53.79 pesos per liter. I calculated that to be about $3.00 per gallon. Not much different that what we pay in the US. In Puerto Madryn I saw a station adverting it’s gas prices. I don’t know what Infinia is as compared to super, but took this photo of their prices.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is B75EE96D-2C63-4671-BA79-7B1974B7FDE5-e1582573901843.jpeg
Looks like super is cheaper than regular?

By the time we finished our city tour, about 2:00PM, the weather had changed for the better. We were stripping off our jackets and sweatshirts. The sun came out!

February 25 – 26, 2020 – Sea Day and Falkland Islands

Tuesday – Another sea day, but a good thing. Dave has a bad cold, so we are not mixing socially, much. We did go to the port lecture of The Falkland Islands. Penguins are the highlight. I am a little amazed at how crazy people are over penguins!


Wednesday – Falkland Islands consist of over 700 islands, but only a few, less than 10, are occupied. While Argentina claims Falkland Islands, they are actually a British possession. In 1982, there was a war between Argentina and the British. Argentina invaded the capital, Stanley. Britain defended its possession. These are approximate numbers, but 3 civilians, 300 British and 800 Argentinian’s died in the war. The civilians were 3 ladies who were in close proximity to a British ordinance that unexpectedly exploded…so, friendly fire. There is still animosity between Argentina and Falkland residents. Falkland is pretty isolated, with few flights, like less than 1 per day. However, they do not fly through any airport in Argentina. They connect through Santiago, Chile or Cape Verde Islands. Our shipboard newspaper asked us to not wear any Argentinian logo wear while in port.


Fortunately, no rain in the forecast, but it is windy with 12 – 22 mph winds forecast throughout the day. The temperature ranges from 48 to 52 degrees. We are fortunate that we are going to make this port. Supposedly it is only a 50:50 chance. The Falklands rarely receive snow anymore. We take tenders to get from the ship to Stanley. It is about a 15 minute ride, and I notice a dolphin riding the wave right next to the tender. As we exit the tender, there is a sea lion sunning itself at the end of the dock. All the activity does not seem to bother him in the least. Another one is swimming just off the dock.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 46430CC9-C47C-4631-BBAB-099B1AA44277-e1582808193649.jpeg
Sea lion sunning himself

We had reserved a full day tour to Volunteer Point to see …. Penguins! We reserved with a Patrick Watts. Not only was he apparently a war hero during the Falklands war, he runs tours in 4×4’s to Volunteer Point. This trip is something that I’m glad we did, but would never do it again.

Patrick Watts has four 4×4 vehicles, and there is a driver and 6 passengers. Our driver was Toni, and she was great. She is a 6th generation Falklander (I’m assuming that’s the correct term), her and her husband own 16000 acres with 5000 sheep, which is considered small. She and her husband drive for Patrick. She is very knowledgeable about the Falklands and answers all our questions. They use generators and solar panels for power. Children are schooled at home by traveling teachers and computers until age 9. Then they are boarded in Stanley through high school. If their grades are good enough, the Falklands pays their tuition, room and board, and a small stipend to attend university in London, England. Currently Toni’s son, who married an English girl and they’re expecting their first child, lives in England. Toni’s daughter, who is single, also lives in England. Toni’s daughter would like to get married and come back to Falkland to run the farm, but she’s in her early 30’s and it will be unlikely for her to find a husband in England who would be willing to move to the Falklands.

As we drive, we are first on a paved road. We see the frame of a crashed helicopter left over from the 1982 war.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A7C12F28-0675-41D2-81A5-C09E0A838958.jpeg
Hopefully you can make out the remains of a helicopter.

Then we turn onto a gravel road, and drive until we reach a gate. It is about 1 hour and 15 minutes since we left the port city of Stanley. This stop is a rest stop. The person that owns this land likes to bake, and has a “honor” bakery cabinet. You can take one of the baked goods and leave a payment in whatever amount you feel the bakery item is worth. There were brownies, muffins, scones and various bars. They all looked good and I took 4 different ones (The chocolate brownie was for Dave). They also had bathrooms here. The person that owns this land, the Johnson farm, has 26,000 acres if I remember right, and is paid for people to cross the farm. From here on, it there is no road. In some places we can see a path, but it is basically off the road, over rocky, hilly land. It takes us another hour and 15 minutes to get to the penguins.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 7760FB1F-48D2-4863-B68E-341698B88A60.jpeg
We are in the back seat and this is a photo of the “path” we are taking.

It is hard to describe how bumpy this path was. Toni says she is not a religious person, but note the cross hanging from her mirror…. We literally bumped and rocked for 1.25 hours. She did drive very slow to make the best of it.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 4BAEAEA6-27E1-4514-861F-421AA8C50A72-e1582818570310.jpeg
Penguins! And a few people…Kings in the background and Magellanic in the foreground

When we finally are approaching Volunteer Point, the location of all the penguins, Toni points to a house and indicates her brother and sister in law are rangers for the penguins. They are allowed to live in this house, but they do not own it. We have to dip our feet in disinfectant. The penguins are in the process of hatching their eggs, or caring for their newly hatched babies. The eggs or infants are balanced on their feet, and covered by their stomach. Both male and female tend to the eggs and young. There is a large area sectioned off by white stones and we are told we cannot go into that area. There are penguins all over, and a large group inside the stones that are tending to their eggs and/or young. These are the King Penguins.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 554FBCD1-956A-4577-B35C-BCC985E4E2F9.jpeg
You can see the bright yellow markings on these King Penguins.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 1F5159F1-DACC-41A2-8CFC-D7B1210D645C-e1582808052633.jpeg
Everything you want to know about King Penguins

We also see Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins. The Gentoo penguins look similar to the Kings, but are smaller and not as colorful. The King Penguins have a beautiful yellow marking on their face. We saw some Gentoo penguins laying on their tummy and I asked one of the rangers about them. She said they were young, waiting for their parents to return with food. They lay on their tummy, exposing their black backside to the sun for warmth.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 77705008-5BC2-4360-A8DC-26B7AE66C309-e1582807930373.jpeg
Everything you want to know about Gentoo Penguins

The Magellanic Penguins look a little different and have a white marking around their eye. They dig burrows in the sand where they hatch and raise their young.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is C2D3AED5-2EFA-47A4-958D-97D926289704-e1582808305916.jpeg
Everything you want to know about Magellanic Penguins
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is EFC51261-A257-435D-B68F-DBD24538C0DB.jpeg
The baby is hard to see, but it’s in there.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 3AB45B9F-D5DB-4D07-8F6F-FCD837A3B570.jpeg
Young Magellanic Penguins shedding their fuzzy baby covering
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 38BB9862-9509-4294-83E3-FFD7C88CB7AB.jpeg
King Penguins watching for dinner

We get to do that wonderful 2.5 hour drive back to town. It was such a relief when we got back to the gate at the entrance to the Johnson farm because it was now a gravel road. Toni is a very good driver, so she is usually the lead, and the other 11 4×4’s follow her. On the way back, one of the drivers, Shawn, likes a different path, so Shawn and 4 other vehicles take a slightly different path. All the drivers were yucking it up on the radio when Shawn got stuck. It wasn’t serious, but he was hung up for a few minutes. Toni said they purposely drive in convoys in case one of the drivers has a problem.

Toni gives us a little driving tour of Stanley. It takes like 5 minutes, because it is a small town. The entire population of all the Falkland Islands is less than 3000 people. One person collects Whale skeletons, one of which Toni says came from their farm. I think it was the Killer Whale.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 97A7001C-8727-42E4-9BD5-2CBAB9AD2900-e1582807879821.jpeg
Killer Whale skull

She also drove by the Governors house.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F5A924DD-B8D4-40CE-BFAA-03F480E2A2A1.jpeg
Falkland Island Governor’s home

She drove by the whalebone arch, but did not stop. She takes us back to the port and our tour is finished. It is about 4:30pm, and the last tender back to the ship was 5:00, but there is a very long line awaiting the tenders, which strings back near the whalebone arch. So we walked back and got our picture.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 34059563-DFE8-4CC3-9861-4BDC46A8ED20.jpeg
Whalebone Arch

We got in line, and it started to rain. Fortunately the rain held off until the very end of the day. Our coats were waterproof, so the rain wasn’t too bad. We had to wait about 1/2 hour in the rain before we finally got our tender back to the ship.


We hurried and went to our elite happy hour, and had some shrimp and drinks. I tried a new drink that was like a Margarita, but with muddled jalapeños peppers. It was very good, but very filling.


Tomorrow is a sea day, with a couple of port lectures, but mostly R&R, especially with Dave recovering from his cold.

February 27 – 28, 2020 – Sea Day and Ushuaia

Thursday – Sea Day – Dave is feeling better, so we are more active today. He says he has a chest cold, but whatever he has must not be contagious because I haven’t gotten sick….yet!

We went to 2 port lectures today. The weather is very rough. According to the captain, the waves are 12 to 15 feet high, and winds are 30 mph. Unfortunately, we were unable to sail around Cape Horn. We got within 25 miles and the weather kept deteriorating, so the captain decided it was not safe. Apparently there is a ranger on Cape Horn and he said the winds were 100 knots! When we look out the windows, the waves are huge. Most of the decks are restricted and we can’t go outside. We can get outside on the top deck, but it’s too cold to venture out there. What is really strange, is the ship is not rocking and rolling that much. As the captains makes the turn toward Beaver Channel, he says the ship will list 5 degrees. We felt it when he made the turn, but it was not dramatic. I believe there are only 3 passages from the Atlantic to the Pacific around South America, other than the Panama Canal of course! The Beaver Channel, Drakes Passage and the Strait of Magellan. Our ship is taking the Beaver Channel towards Ushuaia which will be our last Argentinian port.


After dinner we went to the theater to hear a pianist, Reuel. He had a good show, but not as good as a Brooks Aerhen, who we’ e heard on previous cruises.

Friday – Ushuaia – We have a ship excursion today, Drive to the End of the World. It is very cold, about 40 degrees, and 30mph winds….and its summer here! Our excursion is a bus ride to the Argentinian National Park, “Parque National Tierra Del Fuego”. The land of fires refers to the bon fires the indigenous people burned. The scenery is beautiful. We stopped at the end of the Pan-American Highway. We look cold, don’t we? Actually I am very happy with my new coat. It shed rain when we got rained on, and has kept me warm so far this trip.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is CA9511CD-FE02-4EF7-9AAC-41183C80F6A3.jpeg
End of Pan-American Highway
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 3E9708B8-5958-4545-BBE7-50F18880C456.jpeg
11071.59 miles to Alaska!

We made several stops at different lakes, and the scenery was just beautiful.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 32D2C156-A71B-49BE-9CA1-2E6150FCBC7A.jpeg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 8640D54B-593A-4BB7-8925-0EA7CE7B431A.jpeg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 0A49EBA9-9296-4059-AED1-FDD47D77EF54-e1582911312864.jpeg

We spotted some black neck swans.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is E7D5C0B1-B0A4-43C5-ADCF-9DE5C58D2737-e1582911292917.jpeg
Black neck swans

Our guide told us they do not have any reptiles, and few mammals. One native mammal, guanaco, looks like a llama with short hair and is in the camel family. They also have fox, rabbits and beaver. The beaver and rabbits are not native. The beaver were brought here in an attempt to raise beaver for their fur. When the endeavor was unsuccessful, they released the beaver into the forest and with no natural predators, the beaver have multiplied unchecked. Unfortunately, we did not see any of the mammals. But we did see horses outside the visitor center!

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 8E044447-83A9-4E7F-B868-A51078E2C1F3-e1582914541353.jpeg

February 29, 2020 – Punta Arenas

We have an all day ships excursion for the Punta Arenas port. It is a tender port, so we have to take a tender to get to the mainland. Once we are on land, it is warmer, (not warm, just warmer) but very, very windy. our tour bus arrived about 15 minutes late. Our guide for the day, Diego, keeps saying a few more minutes, but it seems like we are waiting a very long time. As is typical, English is Diego’s second language, so it is sometimes hard to understand him.


Our first stop is the Salesian’s Museum. I am a little disappointed in Diego because he just says, “you have 40 minutes here” with no direction. There is some English explanations, but most in Spanish, so his explanations would have been very helpful. The museum is ran by Italian missionaries, the Salesian’s. They traveled through the region and collected artifacts made by indigenous tribes, which is what is displayed. Much of the displays are flora and fauna of the region. Many stuffed animals and birds. There is a little description about taxidermy. One of the animals I was hoping to see was a guanaco, which I finally saw, but he was stuffed.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 69064C28-4370-4AD8-AFC3-E435B45D8954-e1583075713618.jpeg
Guanaco


The indigenous people were hardy people. They did not wear clothes, and it is very cold here. They lived and traveled in their canoes and sometimes huts. They actually built fires in their canoes to keep warm. Apparently they build the fires on a clay and stone platform to keep from burning up the canoe. I was fascinated by the canoe history.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A099D674-3E34-40B4-B2EC-B62E86B86619-e1583075668547.jpeg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F7FDB045-A866-4EE4-8608-1829452D5D77-e1583075646610.jpeg

The Italian missionaries relocated many of the indigenous people to an island where many subsequently died, many from disease. I imagine the missionaries were trying to help them, and save them from the hard life they were living, but the change in lifestyle and exposure to disease killed them.

The museum also had displays showing the original settlers were looking for gold, then mined coal, and then oil.


Our next stop was a Cemetery, which is suppose to be the most beautiful Cemetery in the world, which is probably contested where there are other beautiful cemeteries. There are rows and rows of cypress trees, which according to Diego, are planted in all cemeteries because the smell of the cypress keeps rats away. Diego takes us to the grave of an aboriginal who died about 1910. His body was found next to a dead Spanish soldier, and it is presumed they killed one another. This may have been one of the last, if not the last, of the aborigines. The government decided to bury him in this Cemetary. People come to his grave and rub his hand, asking his intercession with God, for miracles. There are many plaques, indicating gratitude for his intercession.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 8BDADC0D-EAC6-48DB-9229-9BAF11D1AE5B-e1583075611868.jpeg

The next important grave that we visit is José Menendez, a Spanish businessman. He started many businesses and industries in Punta Arenas, many of which are still in existence today. However, it is claimed that he killed off many of the native people. He is said to have offered a reward when the hands of the natives were brought to him. Thus, his monument is covered in red paint and red hand prints, symbolic of protesting his actions.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 20901685-2262-407E-AE94-BE65387839CF-e1583075627375.jpeg
Menendez tomb

Then it is time for lunch (😳), but our lunch break is a very good experience. We are given a choice of a pisco sour (regional beverage), red wine or orange juice as a welcome drink, and an empanada. Lunch is a buffet where we are offered lamb and/or chicken, and a buffet of side dishes. The meat is cooked over an open fire.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is FA408862-8AF5-4041-AB8F-E00164B5FFC1-e1583075576304.jpeg
Fire where our meat was cooked
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is E8B89163-B6AB-4E05-8C3A-FF0BAAC6D562.jpeg
Buffet of side dishes.

Beverages, including red and white wine were pretty free flowing. We had coffee and a rhubarb compote for dessert. Lunch was very good!


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 2BAC0CF0-CB6E-46CD-BC2A-52B8A6DDA49F-e1583075592187.jpeg
The food was great and plentiful!

After lunch, the owner took us for a walk where he had llamas and sheep in a pasture behind the lunch building. They animals knew him very well and would come up to the fence for treats he would give them.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is D1B60632-AA55-4A4E-94C6-6EB652AA8E12-e1583075557812.jpeg
Llama nuzzle

This acreage was in a beautiful setting overlooking the Straight of Magellan. We continued walking to a shed, where there were some old cars, a few sheep, and a stage area. We were given a demonstration on shearing a sheep.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 0BDFF8A7-D467-4F79-B3C1-E0544E793032-e1583075537707.jpeg
There is a live sheep in there! You can see at least one leg sticking out.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 84C00366-A88D-4D3A-98DF-CAE5F27F8EEE.jpeg
Wool from the shorn sheep. We could feel the lanolin!

Obviously, I enjoyed our lunch break. The owner has a huge farm elsewhere with several thousand sheep. He had a small museum, and this farm goes back generations. His ancestor was originally from Scotland with experience raising sheep.

Our next stop was Fort Bulnes, which is a reconstruction. Originally founded in 1843, it was the first Chilean settlement of the territory since the country’s independence only a couple of decades earlier and it became the origin of the city of Punta Arenas. The Chilean President at the time wanted to build the fort to discourage claims from other nations. The structures were built using sod bricks, and some log buildings. Dave had a strong allergic reaction when he entered the building made of logs! While the intent was to establish a town here, the harsh weather kept them from attracting a stable population, and as a result, after 6 years, the fort was abandoned and destroyed. Instead, the government founded the city of Punta Arenas.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is CCD284AD-B773-426C-B617-354235BF4416-e1583079550922.jpeg
Sod bricks used for walls
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 31FE2DB9-EE18-4BE0-99EE-B4CE8914303F.jpeg
Cannons used to say hello ( per our guide Diego)
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 79B054BD-D3C3-451B-8512-965723250BE4-e1583080870850.jpeg
Strait of Magellan from Fort Bulnes site

So sailing into Ushuaia, we were in the Beagle channel (named after the HMS Beagle ship), and today we are in the Stait of Magellan.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is AEBAFEAC-42DC-4613-A472-882B76F23C6C.jpeg
Unusual trees that Diego said only grow 1cm a year (Did not catch the name)
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 66E9F896-6CE6-4B92-9756-8634AF1D4B57.jpeg
Close up of branches on unusual tree

After visiting the fort, we drove back to Punta Arenas to visit the main square, Plaza Munoz Gamerez. Munoz was a Chilean naval officer killed during an uprising. You are suppose to rub the aborigine’s big toe, also part of the statue, which means you’ll return to Punta Arenas. There were lots of young people hanging around the square. Diego did talk about the protests a little. The protests are for free education, better health care and pensions. Many windows are boarded up, or have bars on them. Rocks were thrown threw the windows of the bank. There is a lot of graffiti.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is CFFBDDDF-07AB-41F2-A904-4A8F65A6502E-e1583080510842.jpeg

Sara Braun was a famous citizen of Punta Arenas. She was born in Latvia, but her family migrated because of persecution of the Jews, eventually ending up in Punta Arenas. As a young woman of 24, she married José Nogueira, 42, a Portuguese shipping magnate. The two worked together to build a business empire. He died 6 years later and she took over the business, becoming the first woman to run a business in the area. With the help of her brother, through family ties and astute trading, they controlled the sheep production in the region and influenced the development of Southern Chile. She was involved in many charitable endeavors and is remembered for her charitable works.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is AC9C0E32-7B7D-42E1-B572-DD577376B432.jpeg
Sara Braun mansion

While Diego was not our best guide, I liked this port because I felt like I learned more about the history of this region.

March 1 – 3, 2020 – (2) Sea Days and Puerto Montt

Update: I got an email from my cousin Sandie that the unusual tree we saw at Fort Bulnes was a “Monkey Puzzle Tree”, so named because monkeys couldn’t climb it. Here is the link she sent me: https://owlcation.com/stem/The-Monkey-Puzzle-Tree-An-Ancient-and-Endangered-Plant

Sunday and Monday were sea days, and we went to port lectures, entertainment in the theaters, and a sing-a-long in the martini bar. We just got the last few minutes of a presentation on navigation. One person asked why we didn’t go around Cape Horn. The answer was that there is a person who lives on Cape Horn and communicates with ships. That person indicated the winds were 100 knots, which converts to 115mph. It sounded like that person also has the authority to tell ships not to sail around the Horn. However, with winds that strong, the Captain of our boat, the Coral Princess, was not going to risk the lives of the passengers, or damage to the ship with winds that strong.

We had scenic cruising Monday afternoon as we sailed to see the Amalia Glacier, which is a tidewater glacier. According to Wikipedia, “The tidewater glacier cycle is the typically centuries-long behavior of tidewater glaciers that consists of recurring periods of advance alternating with rapid retreat and punctuated by periods of stability. During portions of its cycle, a tidewater glacier is relatively insensitive to climate change.” To get to this glacier, the ship had to sail into a “dead end” channel, and the glacier was at the end. We were told the captain would do a 360 degree turn so everyone would get a good look, but he only did a 180 degree turn, and we were on the wrong side (port) of the ship. We ran out the back door, and got some good pictures…well, considering it was foggy and raining ☹️. It was interesting because as we got closer to the glacier, there were more and more chunks of ice in the water, and the water actually looked “slushy” on top. I use my google maps frequently when I’m on a cruise to get a better look at where I’m at. It was weird, because google maps showed we were on the middle of land!

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is B255C6B6-9BEB-438B-B45C-35E68FF508E7-473x1024.jpeg
Red arrow points to glacier, blue dot shows us sailing on land !?!?!
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is CBFDD9AD-4224-4EDE-B0E4-FC64D39548A1.jpeg
Ice floes, slushy water and fog covered glacier

Tuesday – Dave is still coughing, a lot, so he is going to stay onboard the ship and I’m going to go on the Puerto Montt tour by myself. We had booked a tour with an independent company, GV Tours. We also booked a transfer from the ship to our hotel in Santiago (with a vineyard tour) with the same company. They have been frustrating because in booking, they say they’ll get back to you with meet up details 30 days before, but they didn’t. I finally heard from them after multiple emails, Facebook messages and WhatsApp. So, I want to see how this first tour with them goes. We have 13 people on a mini bus, and our guide is Val. She is young and nice, but really doesn’t do much “guiding”. As she is talking while we are riding in the bus, I can’t hear her as I’m in the back of the bus. I hear other people around me saying they can’t hear her either, so it’s not just me. But I did learn a few things about this area, mostly from our port lecturer.

Puerto Montt was settled in 1853 , mostly by Germans. However, today, there are very few Germans in Puerto Montt. It is a city of about 250,000 people, and according to our guide, it is the capital of the region. This region of Chile has active volcanos, which is the big draw. Puerto Montt sits on the second largest lake in Chile, Lago Llanquihue, with an area of 330 square miles. In 1960, a 9.6 or 9.8 earthquake destroyed most of the city. Per Val, after the earthquake, many countries came and introduced their industries. Eventually the city recovered and was rebuilt.


Apparently there is not much to see in Puerto Montt, as we head to another city, Puerto Vargas. Puerto Vargas also sits on Lago Llanquihue. we are suppose to have a view of one of the volcanos, but it is overcast and we can’t see much of anything. Val gives us 30 minutes to wander this town, but doesn’t tell us where to go. I asked her if there was a pharmacy, as I thought maybe I could get some medicine for Dave. She offered to walk with me and was very helpful with the pharmacist, translating for me. I got some cough medicine for Dave.


Val walked with me back to the lake area and I asked her about the protests. Her eyes got wide and she said it was very bad on Sunday. Women are protesting for equal rights and men were told to stay away. Our port lecturer had said protests were planned until March 11, and are worst on Sundays. I think because of our itinerary, we will be missing Chile on Sundays which will be a good thing. Sunday the 8th, we’ll be in Peru, and the following Sunday, the 15th, we’ll be boarding Celebrity Eclipse for the last leg of our trip.

Puerto Vargas is known as the rose city, and there are roses planted everywhere. I also saw blue hydrangeas and other flowers, but roses and rose bushes were prominent.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is DB264802-B400-4889-84C4-BFD8A05324AF-e1583333839985.jpeg
There were rose bushes all along the roads in Puerto Varas
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 37FC7DC4-B946-4934-8FB8-6874E2A905AE-e1583333728952.jpeg
One of my favorite flowers

On our way to Petrohue Waterfalls, we made a quick roadside stop. The sun had lifted some of the fog, and we had a beautiful view of Osorno Volcano.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F8C9466B-F5D8-4351-ABB2-3E328AFDB511.jpeg
First of many views of Osorno Volcano.

We also had an opportunity to feed and pet llamas….which I did not do.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 051E3863-BD57-4B88-88C3-98EED70708C5.jpeg

Then it was on to Petrohue Waterfalls. After seeing Iguazu Falls, this was not impressive. But, we saw remains of lava flow and views of the Osorno Volcano. The Osorno volcano last erupted in 1869. We walked a path to see the waterfalls and listen to the rushing water.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 7C68A865-C623-4D9F-BB63-62F000EC3A1D-e1583334329142.jpeg
Lava flow remains from years ago
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 8E949336-6DB7-4BF0-A1E4-D68FAC02BE0D-e1583334432482.jpeg
Petrohue Waterfalls

After visiting Petrohue Waterfalls, we went back to Puerto Varas. We had better views as the fog had somewhat lifted, although there were still low hanging clouds. We went to a small park along the lake and had a snack of red wine (or white wine or water) and an empanada. There was a statue of a woman in this park, and Val told us her legend.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 4F20003D-10A6-419C-899F-856B25DFFFFB-e1583334956511.jpeg

The legend is that she and the mayor fell in love, but another man was jealous and started causing trouble. So they took the man and put him in the Osorno Volcano, but then the volcano started erupting. The city forefathers contacted a witch who told them the girl had to die, so they killed the girl and a bird took her heart to the Osorno Volcano. Then snow appeared on the volcano and it stopped erupting.

After our snack, we headed to Frutillar, another city, on the bus. This town was also settled with German immigrants, and they have a museum here to recognize that heritage. We did not go in the museum but had an opportunity to take pictures (?). We drove a little further to the “Theatre of the Lake”, where we were given an hour to explore on our own. Again, it would have been nice to have some guidance. I walked along the lake and the views of the volcano were phenomenal. Since I’m not a photographer, and my photographer was not with me, I could not capture the beauty, but I tried. It looked like the volcano was rising up out of the lake through a layer of clouds.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 14ECE448-7F85-4013-A62D-2703AAE66094-e1583335730312.jpeg
The picture can not capture the beauty ☹️
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 76D048C7-19AE-4E6C-9785-666C9D98E2EC-e1583335856203.jpeg
Around the lake were musical symbols. I liked this one because of the weathervane on top.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is D06557EA-DADD-41C6-9AD1-A498EDD6CE1C-e1583335991670.jpeg
I had to take a selfie with the volcano. Don’t I look lonely without my travel buddy?

This was our last port on the Coral Princess. I would say we were a bit disappointed. It just was not as interesting as we thought it would be. Part of this is because we love history, and many of the things we visited were not very historical. I think our lack of knowledge of the Spanish language hurt, too. I felt I just could not get into my blogs very much on this trip as compared to other trips.

We are looking forward to visiting Machu Picchu, the second leg of our tip.

March 4 – 5, 2020 – Sea Day and San Antonio, Chile to Santiago, Chile

Wednesday – spent most of the day packing and trying to decide what clothes we would be taking to Machu Picchu and what clothes we would be storing at the hotel.

Thursday – We have a tour with GV Tours that will pick us up at the ship, and give us a tour on the way to Santiago. I don’t have good things to say about this company. It was hard to get information out of them once we booked. It is the same company that we toured Puerto Montt with on March 3. Eventually I got them to respond via WhatsApp and they said they would be at the port 1 hour after the ship started disembarking. Disembarking started at 7:00AM, we got off the ship by 7:30, went through customs very quickly and exited the port by 7:45AM. GV is suppose to have signs, but we didn’t see anyone. About 8:15AM we found another couple waiting, and she got an email that they would be there at 8:30. That didn’t happen. Part of the problem was that it was cold, and we really didn’t expect it to be as cold as it was. Carolina, the GV guide showed up about 8:50AM, and said her boss told her to be at the port at 9:00. I told her it would have been nice if her boss told us it was going to be 9:00. Carolina was very nice, however. We got in a little mini bus with the other couple and headed to Valparaíso, which was probably over an hour away. She took us to the home of Pablo Neruda, or one of his homes, that is a museum. Pablo Neruda was a a Nobel prize winning poet, diplomat and politician. His house looked like a ship, and had a beautiful view of the harbor.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is FC1FBEFB-45C9-424D-9AAF-2896027D51FF-e1583452675558.jpeg
Pablo Neruda home
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F587EEE5-077C-45BF-8C4C-1D6006117CFB.jpeg
View of the harbor from Pablo Neruda’s home

Carolina told us how there were many murals all over the city of Valparaiso, and art in general has been promoted. She also said that neighborhoods are not segregated socio-economically, but are very mixed.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 0C31DEC7-A0D5-497C-A553-7F700F921B7E.jpeg
Sample of a mural. This one depicts Chile from North to South.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 2500E50B-3355-4CE1-B07C-B1740DD146B5.jpeg
Another mural by a 16 year old girl
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A6F23475-A42F-4E0E-8010-054A17B0BC07.jpeg
Mosaic columns

We did a walking tour and she pointed out many beautiful, big, old homes that were built by the rich, but over the years had been divided up into apartments or hotels. While walking, we happened on a free exhibition of photographs by Marcelo Montecino. As we walked through, a guide explained the meaning of each photo and Carolina translated for us. The main theme was showing how poor people lived during the dictatorship.

Valparaíso is built on 7 hills and each hill has its own name. There are funiculars to help people go up or down, but they call them elevators. We rode one, but not the tallest.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 992BB3C0-DCA0-4A00-9BAA-2D16C89F383E-e1583454131292.jpeg

She took us to the main square. There were big buildings all around, including the Chilean Navy. One building caught my eye because the bottom part was the old stone building, but it had been totally hollowed out, saving the facade, and a new modern building made of glass was inside the old building shell.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is C9DCD481-910E-496B-848F-D9452645519A-e1583453496698.jpeg
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 615B110C-6102-4718-B24D-B6A586CB9932-e1583453572589.jpeg
Required hero statue being guarded by the military to prevent protestors from marring it with graffiti. The military guards also had the help of razor wire that surround the statue.

Water from the ocean originally covered this area, but it has all been filled it. Carolina told us that every Chilean city has an O’Higgins Park, and this main square was named O’Higgins.

After visiting Valparaíso, we were driven to Viña Del Mar, which looks like a more upscale city. They have a flower clock that used to tell time, but now it’s just flowers. She said everyone has to get their picture by the flower clock.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is D2388796-F848-4CDB-9D93-0B6FF524D5C0-e1583454569192.jpeg

Everyone was getting hungry by this time, and we were driven to a restaurant that was on the beach. The problem is that the water is so cold that no one swims in it, or hardly anyone. It is summer in Chile, and we did see a few brave souls in the water, but most people were just enjoying the view, sitting in the sand. The food was very good. Carolina recommended fish and fries, so that is what we all had.

We saw an Easter Island Moai, in Viña Del Mar sitting outside a museum, “Museo de Argueologia e Historical Francisco Fonck”. Carolina said that Chile has offered to return the Moai, but it hasn’t happened yet. It is a human figure in the fetal position. It’s head is bird-like shaped. It is related to a ritual competition designed to define power on Easter Island. After a series of tests, the winner made the leader of his clan a Tangata Manu, who would be the political leader, along with his clan, until the next spring.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 91D85FC0-377B-4880-935F-4F513A22CD81-e1583455305889.jpeg

Leaving Viña Del Mar, we drove to the Indomita winery. We sampled a red and a white wine, and tasted some Merlot grapes. The building was impressive sitting on top of a hill overlooking the vineyards.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is E5D3E3FF-10FF-4171-9A0A-F005C6D6D5FC.jpeg
Unfortunately, a picture does not do the view justice.

After the winery, we drove to Santiago. We do not like Santiago! The traffic was awful, lots of graffiti, tent cities of homeless, men laying on the sidewalk drunk or drugged up, windows boarded up, gas pumps surrounded by metal barriers….I know the current situation is because of the protests, but we are not impressed. Dave is freaked out about the location of our hotel, and we had moved further away from the protests once. We successfully walked about a mile to get some dinner and find an ATM and Dave commented that he saw some normal looking people. Our hotel room is clean, and the staff has been very nice. We are not disappointed that we are flying to Cusco, Peru tomorrow. Not sure what we will do for 4 days when we get back to Santiago. I think if we had not prepaid for the hotel, we would move to Valparaíso…. a much prettier city.

March 6 – 7, 2020 – Santiago to Cusco to Pisac

Friday – the lady who checked us in at the hotel in Satiago ordered a car to take us to the airport …at the wrong time. We finished up breakfast at 9:00AM and the receptionist said that’s your car, but he locked his keys in his car! We said, we asked for a car for 10:30AM! So he ordered another car for 10:30AM. When we were leaving at 10:30, the 9:00 car was still sitting there – he couldn’t get his keys out. I think our driver was actually an Uber, which is suppose to be illegal in Chile. He wanted us to pay before we got to the airport, which was no big deal. This guy actually spoke a little English, which is highly unusual.


We had left most of our luggage at our hotel in Santiago, so check in at the airport was very quick. We were early because we had been told with the protests, it may take an hour to get to the airport. Our flight wasn’t until 2:30, it was an international flight and we wanted extra time to figure out where we were suppose to go. We got to the airport and were checked in probably by 11:00. When we checked in, what they didn’t tell us was that we had preferred tickets, and so a special lounge. Instead we waited in a food court area where WiFi was very spotty and I kept losing my connection. Then we discovered our flight had been delayed 2 hours. So we had quite a long wait. Finally, we boarded our 2:30 flight about 4:30. The pilot taxied a long way, probably 15 minutes worth, and turned onto the runway. But he didn’t take off. He went back to the terminal. There were a few announcements in Spanish, but nothing in English. Dave overheard our steward telling someone that it was a safety issue. Finally that gets resolved and we are finally on our way to Cusco, 3 hours late. Our preferred tickets were nice – almost like an attempt at business class. Only the first 3 rows, and we got served some food which Dave would not call a meal, but it was something. It was still 3 seats across, but no one in the middle seat.

We got to Cusco late, even though there is a time change so we gained 2 hours. The good news is the tour agency owner, Bryan, and a driver, Edgar, in a mini bus, were there to meet us. We are on a private tour, so it will just be us, the guides, and a driver. Bryan went over our schedule for the next few days, and gave us a packet with tickets and maps. Then Edgar dropped off Bryan in Cusco, and we headed to Pisaq, which is over an hour away. The roads are awful, like really awful. Cusco is at a higher elevation than Pisaq, and the roads were very windy with lots of switchbacks. We could not see because it was dark out. By the time we arrived and checked in, it was 9:00 PM Peru time (11:00 PM Chile time), so we were tired. Unfortunately, they gave us a room on the second story, so in our oxygen deprived state, we had to climb 2 flights of stairs, carrying our luggage – which isn’t much, but still fun to carry up two flights. We had some coca tea which is suppose to help your lungs absorb oxygen. Then to bed.

Saturday – Our guide Rina is suppose to meet us at 8:30AM with our driver Edgar. We got up about 6:30AM, and I looked out the window….cows! Then I went into the bathroom take a shower….NO HOT WATER! We got dressed and went to breakfast, and while I told them there was no hot water, there wouldn’t have been time to shower at that point anyway. The hotel is different….it was built as a hacienda. Every hacienda also had a chapel, so there is a chapel in the courtyard. The chapel was built in the mid 16th century. In 1864 it survived a severe earthquake. This was considered a miracle and people from around the world come to worship here.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is BAA8E779-AB51-44EF-8D94-B2402A3B0FED.jpeg
Chapel at hotel

Rina and Edgar were there on time, and our first stop was the Pisaq Archeological Park. It is an important sight for the terraces and stone structures built by the Incas. At this point, I have to say I wish I knew more about the Incas. Also, while Rina is sharing lots of information with us, some of it seems to be conflicting. I’m not sure if it because English is her second language, or something else. Rini got us there early before the crowds. The Incas built terraces on the mountains to grow potatoes and corn. Rini said there are 3000 different potatoes in this area, and 280 different types of corn….which I found hard to believe. Later, we saw and ate some corn, and it was the biggest kernels I have ever seen. Each kernel was about the size of a marble. Corn was a very important crop for the Incas. The Incas build barns to store their corn. We saw where their sacred area was, and there was a doorway, made of stone, you had to pass thru to get to the sacred area. Before going into the sacred area, there were ceremonial baths, some still with running water. We could not go into the sacred area as there was a red flag signifying the paths had been washed out. The mountain was supposedly in the shape of a condor. There are 3 species that are important to the Incas: the condor which represents the future, the puma which represents the present, and the snake which represents the past. Llamas were also important.

There are many structures built out of stone. Many stone structures were built with no type of mortar, and they are still standing. One of Rina’s conflicting comments was that the stone without mortar was pre-Inca. Then she showed us some stone structures that had mortar, and she said this was Inca. Later in the tour she said there is no pre-Inka.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 460B1715-FB73-414C-B1B5-F47B31E4B327-e1583719652993.jpeg
Wall built without mortar
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is C6B31124-1250-48F4-BFAA-C95942633D0B.jpeg
Wall built with mortar

Anyway, Rina pointed out residential areas which seemed to be formed around a central courtyard. They had windows. At Pisac, they built a cemetery in caves the mountainside. Grave robbers have stolen all the gold, silver and ceramic artifacts, but there are still bones in the caves. It is a wonder how they got the bodies into the caves on the mountainside. This cemetery is the largest Inca cemetery and the oldest in South America.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is C18032CA-4BBC-491E-8FA5-64586D666C0E.jpeg
The holes are where the tombs were

Rina pointed out other ceremonial areas with large niches around the perimeter. She said they would mummify important people and put them in these niches, and then have ceremonies in the center part.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is D66D35F6-9276-439E-94E6-D0D65F6F13D6.jpeg
Our guide posing as how a mummy would be positioned

We left Pisac Archeological Park and drove to the main square in Pisac. There is a large market selling all sorts of souvenirs. Dave and I wanted to get some Peruvian Sols, which is the money they use in a Peru, and more cough medicine ☹️. We accomplished both of those tasks.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A06B070A-1149-4D57-8D96-7BC2E90875DE.jpeg
Market in Pisac

Our next stop was lunch, and we had a very nice buffet which was included in our tour. There were lots of Peruvian dishes that Rina explained. It was all very good. The corn has the largest kernels I’ve ever seen….like the size of a marble. This picture probably doesn’t really show how big the kernels were.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 53A523AE-9A1D-48B9-9012-DD7EC4845606.jpeg
Corn with huge kernels

After lunch we were heading to Ollantaytambo. Rina asked if we had heard of the capsules hanging over the side of a mountain, which people rent and sleep in like a hotel. I had heard of them, but had never seen one. Since we were passing them, Edgar stopped so I could get a picture. While we were stopped, some children ran up to the car. They were all very cute and in native dress. Of course one asked for money, and Dave gave them a coin. Unfortunately, I was so caught up in how cute they were in their native dress that I didn’t take a picture. Rina said many people still wear the native dress. We have seen children dressed in native clothing at markets that charge for pictures, but these children were living near the road and just saw an opportunity to ask for money. We were in the middle of nowhere.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 36BA6B9E-2A37-4AD7-A825-BD16164E949F.jpeg
Sleeping capsules hanging off the ledge

Peru seems to be a very poor country and I don’t think I’ve seen many nice homes. Most are run down shacks. It may be different in Cusco which is a bigger city.

We reached Ollantaytambo, and there is another huge Inka Archealogical park. Rina says we can walk to the top, it’s easy. Ha! It was not easy, but we did it.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 196A5973-2A77-4491-8FC4-4EDCF3EAF794.jpeg
Looking at where we have to climb

The mountains are supposedly in the shape of a llama, but this took a lot more imagination to see. The mountainside is also terraced for raising crops.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 3C8E9BE4-1A0C-439A-9A2A-88D66928206E.jpeg
Terraces for raising crops

At the top is a chair for an astronomer and his wife. This chair looks at another mountain that has what looks like two faces. On the solstice, the sun hits one of the faces. Rina said lots of people come to watch this happen. The second face is suppose to look more like the astronomer as there are 4 columns on his head as if it were part of a hat. Inca astronomers wore a hat with 4 “columns” on top.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 276DFCC3-9E1B-4E84-BEEC-93C5DB6A8635.jpeg
Face of astronomer in mountain with 4 columns on his head

There were also the ceremonial baths, rooms with niches for mummies, and a lot of similar structures as the Pisac sight. There are several large stones used in the construction, and because it is so high on the mountain, you have to wonder how the Incas got the stones up on top of this mountain.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 450A6AA6-24A5-4EB1-90A1-97F691BCA74E.jpeg
Ceremonial bath

When we finish visiting Ollantaytambo’s archeological a Park, it is time for us to check in for our train to Aguas Calientes. We have to wait about an hour and the train station really fills up. Our seats are assigned, which looks like it is a good thing. It is suppose to be 1.5 hours….but of course for some reason the train stopped several times and we sat and waited. One time I saw a guy walking around outside the train with a screwdriver….that was interesting. As we ride, we can see the Urubamba River next to the train. This river eventually flows into the Amazon River. It is very dirty looking, as it is reddish, probably with mud or some minerals. Finally we get to Aguas Calientes about 30 minutes late, it is raining, and we can’t find our contact that is suppose to take us to our hotel. We walk all over the place…can’t even figure out where the train station is…finally find the train station, but our contact isn’t there. We wonder what we should do when another tour guide takes pity on us and calls our company for us. They say our contact will be there in 5 minutes, which he was. Of course I’m pissed and the guy just says, “Well, the train was late”. As it turned out, he was an employee of the hotel. Fortunately, our Machu Picchu guide that we were suppose to meet in the hotel lobby knew the train was late and waited for us. His name is Alex, and he went over the whole plan for tomorrow, our trip to Machu Picchu. Our original itinerary said to walk to the bus station at 5:00AM, but Alex is going to meet us in the lobby of our hotel at 6:00AM and walk with us. We are looking forward to visiting Machu Picchu.

March 8, 2020 – Machu Picchu

We made it!

While our itinerary said we should walk to the bus at 5:00AM, our guide, Alex, said he would meet us in the lobby of our hotel at 6:00AM. We like Alex already! We were up at 4:30, had breakfast, checked our small bag with the hotel and at 6:00AM Alex shows up and we walk to the Machu Bus.

Visits to Machu Picchu are very controlled. We had 6:00AM tickets, which is the first group let into Machu Picchu. Only a few hundred are let in each hour, according to the time on their ticket, and I believe they are only suppose to stay 4 hours. When we get to the bus, there is a big line, but Alex leads us to the front explaining those people have 7:00AM entry tickets. At the entrance to the bus, they check our bus ticket, our Machu Picchu ticket and our passport. Then we are let on the bus. It is a 25 minute ride UPHILL. The Urubamba River flows along the road on the lower levels. There are some scary places where we are very close to the edge of the road. We use the restrooms (cost =2sol per person), and then go to the entrance. Here they check your Machu Picchu ticket and your passport. We had purchased tickets to climb a mountain, Huaynu Picchu (Waynapicchu), but decided several days ago that we would not climb the mountain because of Dave’s cough. When we met with our guide last night, he said Huaynu Picchu is 2 hours up and 2 hours down. We told him we did not think we would climb the mountain. This morning, he said he thought that was a good decision. Then he pointed to the mountain, and Dave and I knew our mountain climbing days were over!

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 154CB58D-F717-4752-80CC-C31EDFEA97CB.jpeg
Huaynu Picchu, the mountain we did not climb

After going thru the entrance, our guide took us to the left, up many, many, many stairs. He said we climb first, and then come down. Along the way up, we came to a nice, level, paved walkway. This was part of the old Inca trail.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 1EA2D2E5-382D-4C18-B550-243B1983B859.jpeg
Part of the original Inca trail

Then we walked up some more. We finally get to the top of our climb, and we can see Manchu Picchu in the distance, but it is pretty early so as the sun gets a little higher, it burns off much of the fog and we get a beautiful view of Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is about 8,000 feet above sea level, and I think we climbed about 1000 feet above Machu Pichu to be able to look down on what is called the Citadel. Machu Picchu is actually the name of a mountain.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 3CEFE75E-347A-42D4-97E8-6B2F4D79DC33.jpeg
Machu Picchu Mountain – the tall peak in the background

Machu Picchu Citadel is made up of two parts – the sacred part where the important people lived, on the left, and the industrial part where workers worked, making ceramics, weaving, etc. on the right. The Sacred part had “beautiful” stonework walls, and the industrial part had stone walls with mortar.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 13C8A966-28B8-4AF9-BACA-B81D2A76615E.jpeg
The Citadel. On the left is the sacred , and residential area. On the right is the industrial area where crafts and objects were made.

I have to say, having a guide for just Dave and I was great. He would talk to us and answer all our questions. In a group of 10 or 20 people, you just wouldn’t get that attention. I am very pleased with our decision here. I am also pleased that our travel agency got us the early tickets. When we first got to the high spot that overlooks the citadel part of Machu Picchu, there are very few people. This high, overlook spot is the agricultural area of Machu Picchu. It is terraced, like the other Inca complexes we visited, and this is where they grew their crops. But by the end of our 2+ hour tour of Machu Picchu with Alex, we see people in continuous lines, one after the other, heading up to the top of the overlook. However, the total number of people allowed to enter Machu Picchu is controlled. I think it is limited to 5000 people per day, spread out over 8 hours.

Hiram Bingham III is given credit for making public the existence of Machu Picchu with the help of indigenous farmers in 1911. He was looking for the last capital of the Incas, Vilcabamba, and when he found a Machu Picchu, he thought he had found the last capital of the Incas. Others apparently found it before him, but Bingham made Machu Picchu’s existence public. Bingham returned with the support of Yale University and his expeditions collected many specimens of exotic animals, antiquities and human skeletons. Peru would like these specimens back, and the US agreed, but only a few specimens have been returned since 2011. I think Peruvians resent the US retaining the artifacts, based on Alex’s discussion.

Alex talks about the Incas and one of the Inca kings, Pachacuti, who was responsible for building Machu Pichu and also expanding the Inca kingdom. Pachacuti lived in a Cusco, because Cusco was the capital of the Inca nation. But Machu Picchu was built for important people, so Pachacuti would visit. The Inca kingdom was made up of 4 groups which Pachacuti consolidated, making it the largest kingdom in all of the Americas at the time.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is BB4A1BAA-D5F4-4786-AC98-2F16A59ECCE1.jpeg
Alex showing us the 4 groups that made up the Inca nation and where they were located. Cusco was the center and the capital.

Only 600 people lived in Machu Picchu, but it took many more to build it. These important people were important because they had “knowledge”. The Inca worshipped the sun, and Machu Picchu had astronomers who knew when to plant and when to harvest and what to plant. A special building, “Temple of the Sun”, had windows which pointed to where the sun would be at the equinox’s. To one side of this building is where the chief astronomer lived and on the other side is where Pachacuti would stay when he visited.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 112E6FE7-B68D-4E9C-86CE-7D7B0FA2C1C1.jpeg
Round structure is temple of the sun. The window showing would perfectly line up with the sun at the December 21 equinox. Another window would perfectly line up with the sun on the June 21 equinox.

At the top of the photo, the building behind the thatched roof with the roof peak, is the building it is believed king used when he visited, because it is divided into two rooms, and no other structure is built the same way. The rectangular building right under the window is where the astronomer would have lived.

The Inca’s watched the constellations. Alex showed us the Southern Cross and a stone which was carved to mimic the Southern Cross. The top point of the cross points East, and I used my compass to verify it.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is B642E9A4-DFB7-4B41-B509-1D457A722A9D.jpeg
Stone carved to mimic Southern Cross. You can’t see it, but the compass on my phone shows that the point indeed faces directly south.

Contrary to what we heard from Rina yesterday, important buildings were build with no mortar. The stones were fit together perfectly. Sometimes they were cut to show a stair step pattern, which was a symbol very important to the Incas. Alex called it beautiful as compared to the structures built with mortar.

One of the structures Alex showed us is the temple of 3 windows. The windows face the East, and when it is the equinox, the sun shines onto a rock, which has the step carvings.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is CCE2318A-8C82-468B-8B45-55537AD6F48D.jpeg
Temple with three windows

Alex showed us an area that was used for religious rites. There is a huge stone next to it, carved to mimic the shape of the mountain in the background. Alex said the Incas thought the mountains were very important.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 936A8F93-679A-43FE-9979-3619A366CBDB.jpeg
Stone carved to mimic mountain behind it.

At this point, Alex left us, but we could have stayed longer if we wanted to. Our ticket would allow us to leave, grab a bite to eat or whatever, and come back in. We decided to wander around a little bit and just absorb the beauty of the mountains.

We exited and relaxed for awhile at the Machu Picchu snack shop, then took the bus back to Aquas Calientes. While we waited for our train to Ollantaytambo to spend the night, we had lunch and walked around this over-touristy town.

March 9, 2020 – Cusco

Last night on the train from Machu Picchu, we were served a “box dinner” with a sandwich, brownie, fruit and chocolate. It was perfect for our dinner. We walked about a block to our hotel, which was very nice. Dave wanted to stay there for the rest of our trip. We went to the bar, and then early to bed after a very long day.

We get up and have breakfast at the hotel, and they have a cute little display of some different types of corn.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is CDE8B615-9840-410A-A2C6-2F3C748A0B6B-e1583808029489.jpeg
Display of different types of corn

Dave was wandering around after breakfast admiring the landscaping. He really liked this hotel. I agree, it was very nice.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is D2ACF039-FA89-4A2B-BB7E-EAA9322AEC20-e1583808039431.jpeg
Our hotel had some beautiful flowers. This is one example.

Rina meets us at 9:00am, but we have a new driver, Luis. Rina tells us that Luis used to be a policeman. I like that idea! Again, the roads are awful. Our first stop is the Salineras Salt mine. We are at 3080 meters of elevation, which converts to over 10,000 feet. Our whole trip has been in the Andes Mountains, so these altitudes shouldn’t surprise me. Dave is still sick ☹️ and the altitude is bothering him today.


The salt beds were originally built by the Incas, but now this salt process is ran by the local families. The salt separates out into 3 layers: the top layer is used for bath salts, the second layer is used for table salt, and the bottom layer is used for animals. The water that flows into the beds is warm, not hot, mineral spring water. Local people that have eaten a lot of the salt have big thyroids, because iodine has not been added to this salt. The salt beds produce 180 tons of salt a year. Rina said that different colors of salt are produced during the wet season, but it is mostly white now because the rainy season is ending.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 6E752976-3325-4B91-BAB5-756FB082247B-e1583808017862.jpeg
Salt beds
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is C8CCD774-26AF-4092-8528-AE161AF4BF60.jpeg
Finished product: Left is bottom layer for animals, middle is table salt and right is bath salt.

We see native women wearing their native hats. The wealthier or higher class women wear white hats. The hats have a colored band, and I believe a blue band means she is married, a pink band means she is available. I can’t remember the color for divorced women or widows. Rina said these women are called Mestiza. Lower class women wear brown hats and are called shepherds.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 6F7224A5-6F6A-4798-8377-E436734B2CFD-e1583808204139.jpeg
Lady with white hat signifying she is upper class, mestiza
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F4CBCF6F-92F3-43ED-BEAC-A6E5449CA742.jpeg
Lady with brown hat signifying she is a shepherd

Our next stop is Moray, which is another Inca site. This site had 5 different terrace settings, and lots of walking downhill and then….uphill…ugh! The most important one that we see is made up of terraces in a circular pattern with semi circular terraces at one end. In the middle is a rectangular box, with two sections. Rina says this represents marriage. The circle represents the sun and man, the semi circles represent woman and the moon. The barn in the center represents sharing in a marriage. The Incas treated men and women as equals, but the women took care of the home and the men took care of the terraces. The Incas thought the land was Mother Earth and she would be jealous of women. The terraces in this location were used to grow medicinal herbs and plants. Each terrace is a different microclimate, with variations in temperature, and received a different amount of water and sunlight. This picture does not really portray how far we had to walk and how difficult it is for us to walk uphill at these altitudes. Hopefully you can see the path in the very back with a couple of people on it.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 044B8F68-2F73-4335-93AC-EAE48AFCC29A-e1583808163972.jpeg
The circular terraces, the semi circular terraces and the barn or storage area in the center

Each August they celebrate New Year and make a sacrifice back to Mother Earth, something that has come from the ground like fruit it a baked good. The sacrifice is buried in Mother Earth.

Dave had a hard time with the altitude here, and climbing up the stairs and inclines from these terraces. But it is lunchtime, so we drive over these horrible road to Chinchero. Dave had some coca tea, and feels better, but we discuss our afternoon agenda with Rina and decide not to climb more stairs to visit a cathedral here in Chinchero. Instead we go to our last stop, which is a textile demonstration. Two young girls meet us and dress us in Inca hats and shawls and sing to us. One girl shows us how they make soap out of a tuber plant, and wash the wool. Then she shows us how they get the different colors with different plants, flowers and insects. She spun some thread, and the other girl was weaving. Of course they showed us their products. They had alpaca capes that were so soft, I couldn’t resist. It was $30. My second souvenir from this trip.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 7DBA149A-E566-4A2F-804C-181C0D61FC31-e1583808303530.jpeg
Young lady showing us how yarn is made
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 65979735-8EA8-4759-B0D6-15E317CBE6A1-e1583808291283.jpeg
Another young lady making something with the yarn
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is ADFF2E4A-15B5-4CFA-8F79-DA2C308895AB.jpeg
Dave in his Inca outfit
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 0D775B22-5A65-4D66-9697-83DD49DB043C-e1583808279214.jpeg
Me in my Inca outfit

Rina and Luis drove us to our hotel which is very close to the main square in a Cusco. I think Dave has altitude sickness. Cusco is over 11,000 ft in altitude, compared to 8 or 12 feet in Florida. Today he has been drinking coca tea, and it seems to help. We are chilling in our hotel and we’ll see how he feels tomorrow. The most important part of this whole trip was Machu Picchu, so if we miss some other sights in Cusco, we are OK with that.

March 10, 2020 – Cusco

Dave is going to try to do today’s tour. The altitude is very difficult for both of us to adjust to, despite drinking a lot of coca tea. I’m sure part of this is our maturity (☹️), but Dave is fighting something – maybe bronchitis.

This morning when we went to eat breakfast at our hotel, Dave started coughing, and the breakfast room cleared out. So we had the room to ourselves (😁). I am still convinced that whatever is bothering him is not contagious, because I haven’t caught it.

Rina and Luis picked us up at 9:00AM this morning, and we headed to the mountains above the city of Cusco. Great views looking down on the city of a Cusco. It looks very large, but I think the population is about 500,000 (even though Rina told me 1 million, which is why I question some of the things she told us).

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is B607168F-2AB2-449C-A8CB-36FDB07E1C81.jpeg
Cusco from about 11,000 feet

We visited Saqsayhauman which is the spiritual center of the Incas. If you envision the city in the shape of a puma, Saqsayhauman is its head.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 356F0CA8-75C2-4061-A785-EA3D8A5B195E.jpeg
The image of a puma is outlined in red over a map of Cusco. Saqsayhauman is the head.

This temple had been started by a previous culture, but the Incas took over in the 13th Century. The boulders, which are HUGE, are fit together without mortar. It is built in a zigzag shape and extends a long distance, my guess is about 1/4 mile long and in places would be about 88 feet high. Rina says the zig zag shape represents lightening.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 40C527AD-02C3-44EB-8CB3-0EE027299F8E.jpeg
The wall zig zags and uses huge boulders

In the stonework are various shapes.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is A6F7D2B3-8D1E-4EF0-9310-400C7A23F899-e1583886798831.jpeg
Can you see a puma paw?
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 0A550D04-EEDC-4A27-95E2-3903CA501BA9.jpeg
Can you see the head and some of the body of a snake? This one is a little harder to see in a photo.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 6FB3A4B6-6352-4D53-8418-4DA356567BCB.jpeg
Snake that had been filled with gold.

There is a huge open area next to the temple, and it was used for celebrations. All the Incas from the empire would come here to celebrate the equinox, June 21. They would sacrifice a black llama and offer its heart to the sun.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is DC37AB08-3DD8-4B2D-A265-793A7F4A878B.jpeg
Celebration area

It is interesting to me that Switzerland gave Cusco a huge statue of Jesus, which they installed just above this Inca sight. Also, Rina did not take us to see this statue although it was very close to where we were.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is B07D44D9-0CD0-47A1-A0FA-B5D968D61BCE.jpeg
Jesus statue

The next Inca site we went to was De q’enqu. This site was for rain. At the entrance is a huge stone which is supposed to resemble a frog. Water would gather around the bottom of this statue and was ideal for tadpoles, which would become frogs. The frogs were a sign of a good rainy season. At the equinox, the frog statue would leave its shadow on the mountain behind the statue. I didn’t question it, but I would think the shadow would be there other days, too. This site also was a place where people who had passed away would be mummified, and black llamas were sacrificed.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is AEA33004-14D7-4415-8336-D05629795568.jpeg
Picture of shadow of frog on equinox

Before heading back to Cusco, we stopped at two textile businesses. The first one gave us the sales spiel, and then we went out back and they had all sorts of animals. This was to show that different color yarn can be made without having to dye it from different color fur on the animals. Then we went to the second place, and we were given a spiel on how different rugs or blankets are made. They had one example which the girl said was over 1000 years old.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 7B2E5F8B-8288-430E-99F4-85115D190C57-768x1024.jpeg
Over 1000 years old

They had other woven objects that were beautiful, including one that caught our eye because it looked like it was 3 dimensional. We did not buy it, but the price was $800US, which they would discount to $700. Somehow it just wouldn’t fit in our decor, but it was beautiful.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is B738AF0E-E642-4B57-921C-92E8C5AF2EE1-e1583887720230.jpeg
Tapestry with 3-D image

We drove to Cusco, to their main square. Rina said the main square is where the Incas cried. They would come here carrying the mummies on their back. The main Catholic cathedral here was originally an Inca palace. The Spaniards, invading Peru, destroyed much of the Inca temples, or at least all that they found. The Spaniards tried to convert the Incas to Catholicism. The Spaniards built their church inside the Inca walls, and sometimes using the Inca walls. We could not take photos inside the cathedral. The cross the Spaniards carried when invading Cusco was in a niche. Rina showed us the important paintings, most of which had been done by Indian painters, for the Spaniards. Because the Incas were resisting conversion to Catholicism, they would include Inca symbols in the paintings which are hanging in the church. Many of the paintings had snakes in them, which is interesting because snakes represent the past, or the afterlife to Incas. One painting showed Mary in a dress that resembled a mountain, because the mountains were part of Mother Earth which the Incas worshiped. So the Spaniards thought the Incas were worshipping Mary, but they were actually worshipping the mountain.

We went to another Catholic Cathedral, which had Inca temples inside the Cathedral grounds. These were the Sun Temple, the Moon Temple, the Rainbow Temple, the Rain Temple and the Lightening Temple. The Rainbow, Rain and Lightening temples were connected and had one window lined up where you could see through all three.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 79C52FFF-2F79-416C-9D60-BF777DF4510C-e1583887818396.jpeg
Looking through the lined up windows of three temples

There was a beautiful garden, and the shapes of the condor, puma and snake were carved in the grass.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 89DF9D9F-98E4-4D6B-8E3A-B6C992A1DB81-e1583887906607.jpeg
Images of a condor, puma and snake carved into the grass

Our tour was over, and Rina took us to a restaurant for our cooking class. It was a private class for just Dave and me. It was hands on, but only one person could cook, so that was me. First I made a Pisco Sour. They use an egg white to get foam on top, but I could not shake it enough to get a good foam top. The bartender said you could also use a blender which always gives you the foam.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 81534923-2032-4C5D-9593-522DAF842033-e1583887991628.jpeg
Shake, shake, shake!

Next, I made trout ceviche. The trout here is red, and almost looks like salmon.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 14092FF3-21C9-4EA9-A899-2AA736FD27AF-e1583888059845.jpeg
Trout Ceviche

Last I made Lomo Saltado, which was beef tenderloin with onion and tomatoes.


This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 4DBA5ADA-E61C-4FED-A908-1019A8A10ABF-e1583888144537.jpeg
What you would expect when I cook….
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is C1C134B3-B8F9-4D5A-A8A3-7B709C109715-e1583888211718.jpeg
Finished product
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 2C93F482-C440-47D8-BB9E-702DD38397A7-e1583888269304.jpeg
Room where we ate the delicious meal I made 😁

The final dish was Carpaccio de Pina, a dessert, but we were stuffed, and tired, so they made it for us and we boxed it up to take to the hotel. The meal was delicious, but they did not give me the recipes…except for the Pisco Sour. I’m not sure I could find all the ingredients in the US that they used.

Not much planned for the next few days. We are leaving at 4:30AM for our flight back to Santiago. We have 4 days in Santiago before our cruise, if they let us onboard. We have received several messages that everyone has to undergo a health screening, and I’m not sure Dave will pass. So our plan is to be pretty inactive to try to let Dave rest and get better.

March 11 – 13, 2020 – Santiago, Chile

Wednesday- Dave was really puny looking as we left Cusco, but got much better once we were on the plane. I don’t think I heard him cough once on the 3.5 hour flight, which is amazing. We had pretty stringent health screening upon arrival in Santiago. I can’t say Dave was 100% honest on his health survey, but he did admit to a common cold. We were much relieved he passed the temperature screening. We do not think he is putting other people in danger, although he may be scaring them when he coughs. He has no temperature, and I have not gotten sick. So he’s not contagious. When we checked into our hotel where we are planning to spend 4 nights, we asked for a room with a bigger bathroom than we had when we spent one night here before our Machu Picchu trip. After a bit of back and forth discussion, the guy said he’d upgrade us, so we have a really nice room. It is large, and the bathroom has two sinks! We spent the rest of the day reorganizing our clothes, packing away our heavier clothes that we need for being so cold when we were near to Antartica. It felt so good to put on shorts and sandals. It is much warmer in Santiago – upper 80’s, which I hear is also a deterrent for Coronavirus. Unfortunately, there is a lot of upheaval in Santiago – all of Chile actually, but more so in Santiago. Lots of protesting, marching, tear gas, rock throwing, etc. We have been told the police are shooting out the protestors eyes. So there is much hatred of the police. Our hotel is close, but not in the worst section. Reading the roll call online, one potential cruiser was mugged, and cancelled the cruise. However, the mugging could have happened anywhere. We are taking it one day at a time.

Thursday – slow start this morning, but we still got in our 10,000 steps. We walked to the Centro area, Plaza de Armas, which is an area of a lot of the protests. From what I read, there were no protests scheduled today (yes, someone posted the schedule on a TripAdvisor forum), and the protests are usually late afternoon and on into the night. We went, watching for any signs of protest.

Plaza de Armas is the symbolic heart of Chile. It is a lively place with chess players at one corner, the Metropolitan Cathedral on the opposite corner, the Museo Historico Nacional along one side, and other Palacio’s. The requisite statue is of Don Pedro de Valdivia (1497-1553) , sitting on his horse. He was a Spanish conquistador and the first royal governor of Chile.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 4D7F9CE0-72E8-4A52-8FC3-D2F798158B06-e1584046121917.jpeg
Don Pedro de Valdivia
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 333282FD-CE6D-414B-83DB-68B00BA9DDB0.jpeg
Playing chess in a Plaza de Armas

We visited the Metropolitan Cathedral, which is very large. Don Pedro declared in 1551 that a house of worship would be constructed on this site, but each structure was destroyed by fire or earthquake. The current cathedral was finished at the end of the 19th century.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 4798724D-D0ED-4FEF-AB31-8B353CB33D66.jpeg
Inside of Cathedral picture stolen from the culturetrip.com website. A sign said no photos, so I did not take any photos inside.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 64499B17-BA60-4D05-8C37-68BC985A0A9C.jpeg
Outside of Cathedral

There were 2 museums in the area, and we are not crazy about museums, but one of them, Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, has an “airy cafe”, so we went there for lunch. As we sat there and ate, we decided to go to the other museum, Museo Historico Nacional. As we entered, the museum guard told us it was free! Good thing, because I thought there were explanations in English, but they were all in Spanish. Again, no pictures ☹️. This museum is a colonial era palacio, and there are several beautiful chandeliers. This museum traces Chile’s history from the preconquest period to the 20th century. We did get an English brochure which briefly described each room, but not any of the artifacts. We did enjoy looking at some of the painting and artifacts. There was a military jacket worn by someone which looked like it would fit a boy … it was small! There was also a beautiful dress, white with netting and gold beading sprinkled throughout that I thought was beautiful. I believe it was from the 1920’s. We saw a picture of Bernardo O’Higgins. The guide we had from the port to Santiago told us there is an O’Higgins park in every city. O’Higgins (1778 – 1842) was a Chilean independence leader who freed Chile from Spanish rule in the Chilean War of Independence. He is considered one of Chile’s founding fathers. A museum worker approaceh us and asked if we wanted to climb the tower. We climbed 4 stories (and I thought our climbing days were over) to the tower on top of the museum building and got nice views of the Plaza de Armas and the Cathedral ( see above picture of Cathedral).

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is DD15BFA2-8790-4884-93BC-4B75EF930B63.jpeg
Panoramic view Plaza de Armas and Dave’s arm. I was taking photos today…..

We set out to find Santiago’s oldest structure, Iglesias San Francisco. This is the last trace of colonial architecture in the city. Construction began in 1586. The church survived successive earthquakes, but was rebuilt several times. Out guide from San Antonio port to Santiago when we disembarked the Coral Princess told us the oldest buildings in Santiago are painted red, thus the red color. Unfortunately, the protesters have added their graffiti.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 4F532D72-C91A-4BEE-9DE1-DF6F81A56561.jpeg
Iglesias San Francisco

Walking back to our hotel, we walked into another park, Cerro Santa Lucia. We did not walk to the top lookout point, but up one level where there was a fountain. This park looked interesting, but we are passing up most of our climbing opportunities 😁.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 08456551-3CFF-4E0A-B178-2E4C51A21D81.jpeg
Cerro Santa Lucia fountain

We ventured out early evening looking for essentials (bottle of wine). As we were walking, there were 6 or 8 young men heading in the opposite direction. The guy in the lead had a can of spray paint in his hand.

We sat on our balcony last night which we share with a young German couple. I noticed fruit was growing on the tree, hanging over onto the balcony.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 229E6942-B22F-47B7-BE23-C08CACBD39A8.jpeg
Pomegranates

Friday the 13th..😳 – We have spent most of the day wondering whether our cruise will be cancelled or not. We are taking it easy, and got a late start this morning. We are heading to Cerro San Cristobal. It is a large hill, almost 1000 feet above Santiago with a 72 foot statue of Virgin Mary at the top. It is the second highest hill in Santiago. There is a little church at the top, and also an outdoor amphitheater. We were able to take a funicular most of the way up. Still had to climb several stairs to reach the statue.

Before heading up the stairs, I noticed another unusual tree. It looks like something is growing inside the tree.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is E3ACF2CC-28A2-4E8F-B55B-366F49990ECA-e1584131701472.jpeg
Unusual growth in tree
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is B5C1E03B-3B92-49E6-A2AF-B268B10E1159-e1584131717713.jpeg
Close up of growth in tree

There is a beautiful view of the city from the top, except because Santiago sits in a valley trapping pollutants, there is a lot of smog which reduces visibility.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 1578E258-BB13-4AB3-9ADD-9C8538CC3002.jpeg
View of Santiago and outdoor amphitheater from the top.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is F0064B25-3978-40F7-979A-5BD9E954E74F.jpeg
Our hotel!
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 8031E2B5-4C82-49B2-A554-6361C9B085D0-e1584131680107.jpeg
Statue of Virgin Mary

After our visit to the hill, we walked to the museum of the home of Pablo Neruda. He was a Nobel Prize winner, and we saw another of his houses when we were in Valparaíso. The house is on several levels, and is split up among different buildings. None of the rooms are very big, but they are interesting. No photos allowed, again. Neruda was a collector, so the house is filled with eclectic objects and paintings. He called the house “La Chascona” or “Woman with the Tousled Hair” after his third wife. The house served as a romantic hideaway for many years before the couple married. I think Pablo was a communist as he was awarded the Lenin Peace Prize, as well as the Nobel Prize. According to Wikipedia, the Lenin Peace Prize was mainly awarded to prominent communists who were not citizens of the Soviet Union.

We are going to grab a quick bite to eat, before dark. Someone on our board said they rented a car for the day, driving outside Santiago. When they returned about 10:00PM, they could not get to their hotel due to army tanks and police presence. The hotel they were staying in is on the other side of the park and river that runs through Santiago, than where we are staying, however less than a mile away.

I got an email from Celebrity stating that our cruise is NOT cancelled. So, as long as they let us onboard, we still plan to sail from Santiago to San Diego. Getting to dock in San Diego may be another problem – we’ll see!

March 14 – 15, 2020 – Santiago to Miami!

Saturday-Started as a normal day! We walked to the Costanera Mall which is a magnet for tourists. It is a good distance from our hotel, maybe 4.5 miles, but there wasn’t much more we wanted to see in Santiago, especially since we feel a little constrained with the protests. It is a big, beautiful mall with everything, and lots of people. Dave said it put US Malls to shame because there was so much activity. In Florida, the last few times we went to the mall, they had very few people, including the Port Charlotte mall at Christmastime. While at the mall we ate lunch at Chili’s….so we ate at Chili’s in Chile 😁. We walked back to the hotel, getting there late afternoon, and when I check my email, there is a message from the lady I hooked up with to share a van to the port. She writes that our cruise is cancelled! Despite getting an email that morning saying the cruise will depart as scheduled. I checked the Celebrity website, and sure enough, our cruise was listed as cancelled. Then I checked the cruise critic boards and people had posted the email they got from Celebrity. I did not receive an email! But, since it was showing on the website, we knew it was true. The rest of the evening we scrambled to find flights. We are booked on a United flight for March 30, so we tried to change it, but it was going to cost us more than booking a new flight independently. After literally spending hours, we found a flight that left Santiago about noon, with one stop in Panama, ending in Miami.


Sunday- we found out from the message boards that our ship, Celebrity Eclipse is not being allowed to dock in Chile. However, we get our flight to Panama, in the last row of the plane, in a row with 3 seats. Every time Dave coughed, the lady in the aisle seat cringed. In Panama, they took my scissors that used to belong to Dave’s mom. I was really bummed because they were tiny fold up scissors and I have traveled all over with them for years with no problem. They also took our temps in Panama, and we must have passed because they let us on the plane. Of course we were sitting behind 2 rows of kids, but on an almost full flight, our reward was an empty seat in our row. Miami customs was very quick and easy compared to our last trip through Miami. We rented a car and are spending the night in a Hampton. We’ll drive home to Englewood tomorrow.

This is my last journal for this trip. Our trip ends about 2 weeks early, but after seeing Machu Picchu, the cruise was just our ride home and time to relax. We are very happy with all we saw and all we were able to do. Now we get to fight with Celebrity, who never sent notification of the cancelled cruise, and United to see if we can get any money back from our San Diego to Tampa reservation that was planned for the end of our cruise.


Blue Ridge Parkway and Tail of the Dragon: 9/26 to 10/3/2020

We left home about 1:00 PM on Saturday, September 26, 2020, heading north in my “new to me” 2018 Porsche 911 Carrera S, Cabriolet. We spent the first night in Brunswick, Georgia, and reached our first destination, Roanoke, Virginia, on the next day.

Last year, we traveled on the Skyline Drive and parts of the Blue Ridge Parkway, but did not finish. If I remember correctly, we got off in Ashville. So most of this trip is new territory.

Dave had ordered a couple of books on the Blue Ridge Parkway. One gave information at various mile markers, “Guide to the Blue Ridge Parkway” (guide or guide book), and the second gave information on hikes along the parkway. Unfortunately, book #2 did not get much use.

We intended to head south and get on the parkway about mile marker 122, but the parkway was closed at that entrance due to repairs and maintenance, so we got on the parkway at mile marker (mm) 136, driving southwest to the end at mm 469.1.

Dave had previewed the guide and highlighted points of interest. There are many overlooks with beautiful views. Some of the exhibits are closed due to the coronavirus, but all the beautiful, long views are always open 😁.

Monday, September 28, 2020: The section from mm 136 to 292, covered agriculture and rural life. We will not finish the whole section in one day. Dave has our trip split up and we will spend 4 days traveling to the end, mm 469.1. There are many cemeteries along the parkway, mostly family cemeteries from the settlers in this area. Lots of children, who died in their infancy, are buried in these old cemeteries. A few cabins also survive, as well as interesting, little snippets about the settlers. For example, Sweet Annie, a widow, had frequent soldier guests which her neighbors took a dim view of. We saw an old one room school house, Kelly Schoolhouse, which is no longer in use.

This cabin was just past the school. It was used by the Trail family in the 1890’s.

The Trail family lived in this log cabin in the 1890’s. mm 154.5


We did see some wildlife over the four days – deer, wild turkeys and chipmunks. This is the best photo, though – and only deer.

We stopped to see the Mabry Mill, which is the most photographed spot on the parkway. There is a walkway past several interesting exhibits of rural life. The demonstrations were closed due to the virus.

Mabry Mill

At mm 189.9 was a cabin belonging to the sister in law of Orlena Pucket, who lived in a cabin adjacent. Orlena delivered more than 1,000 babies in her career as a midwife, delivering the last baby in 1939 at the age of 102! Orlena herself bore 24 (!) children, none of which survived much past 2 years of age.

We had hoped to visit the Blue Ridge Music Center – but it is currently open on limited days due to the virus, and not on Monday when we were there.

We ended the day at mm 215.9, and stayed in Galax, Virginia.

HOTELS during Coronavirus: Our plan for the whole trip is to stay in Hilton properties, mostly Hampton Inns because we have generally found them clean and comfortable. Our first two nights, our room had a sticker on the door indicating it had been cleaned and sanitized. Hampton’s usually have a breakfast buffet, but our first two nights they offered us coffee and a bagged breakfast. Galax, VA Hampton was much looser in their protocols. No sticker on the door, and a wide open breakfast buffet. We had brought breakfast bars, and that’s what I had every morning. Dave could not pass up the biscuits and gravy, so this was his one splurge. I was pretty shocked as throughout the whole trip, with this one exception, there were social distancing markers on the floors, and in the elevators. One other breakfast buffet buffet was open later in the trip, but the only allowed one person or one family at a time. There was coffee available, and 2 out of the 8 mornings, the hotel did not have “dark roast” because of the coronavirus (?)…don’t quite understand this oddity.

Tuesday, September 29, 2020: The weather today is lousy. It is rainy and foggy and we can’t see anything.

Our view on Tuesday 😢

We crossed the state line, leaving Virginia and entering North Carolina. We passed the Cumberland Knob area which is where construction of the parkway began in 1935. More than 100 men were involved in the construction, The first section was 12.49 miles heading south from the VA/NC state line. We plugged along, and Dave read from our guide about the places we were passing, but since we couldn’t see much we didn’t stop. The guide does have interesting stories about the settlers in this area. Martin Brinegar earned money by making shoes by hand and selling them for $1. James Caudill, a 16 year old from Elkin, NC was the first to settle in the Doughton Park area arriving after the Civil War ended. He sired 22 children by his first two wives. His third wife outlived him even though he lived to the age of 98. One of his sons, Martin, raised 16 children. Dave had researched a winery in this area. It was rainy and foggy, so we decided to exit the parkway at mm 246 and find the winery. This was the Thistle Meadows Winery. It didn’t opened until noon, and we arrived a few minutes early. The proprietor saw us, came out to the car with a big umbrella and said he was ready for us! We were offered a choice of 6 wines, 1 ounce pours, out of a total of 17 wines they had in stock, for $5. We both sampled, and opted for 6 of the 10 dry wines, and we pretty much chose the same wines. This winery does not grow their own grapes. All the wines we tasted were good. As a bonus, he offered us one pour each of his sweet wines. I tried “Topia Red” which was a coffee flavored, port style wine. Since Dave had stepped away for a moment, I chose “Horse Stomp Red” for him to try. It has the taste of raspberries blended with a white Zinfandel, and enjoyed with chocolate. He liked it and bought two bottles of the “Horse Stomp Red” as well as a bottle of “Devils Garden White” which is their Chardonnay, and a bottle of “Feather Bed Red”, a Cabernet Sauvignon. Some other folks wandered in and did tastings while we were there, probably looking for entertainment on this rainy, foggy, day. We got back on the parkway at mm 246, and continued on to mm 258.7. There is a “Northwest Trading Post” here. It is a gift shop specializing in handmade crafts. While we perused the crafts, we did not make any purchases, but took advantage of the restrooms. Since we could not see anything, we decided to leave the parkway here, and drive straight to Boone, which is where we planned to spend the night. We ate a late lunch in a cute cafe, Our Daily Bread, and ended up getting take out pizza for our dinner. Just a dreary day.

Wednesday, September 30, 2020: We got back on the parkway at mm 291.8 and backtracked to am 285.1. Fortunately, it is a beautiful, sunny day. A little cool for us…the mornings have been in the upper 40’s. We are not early morning people, which is good, because by the time we get going, it is in the 50’s. There is a lot of information about Daniel Boone in our guide. He was born in Reading, PA in 1734, to a Quaker family, the 6th of 11 children. His aunt taught him to read and write. He received a rifle for his 12th birthday. When he was 16, his family moved to the Yadkin Valley in NC. Five years later, he left to take part in the French and Indian War. He later returned to marry his sweetheart, Rebecca Bryan. He helped cut the Wilderness Road 300 miles from eastern Virginia through the Cumberland Gap to the Kentucky River. The settlement at the end of the Wilderness Road was named Boonesboro in his honor. He moved his family to KY, later to Louisiana Territory, ending up in Missouri with his grandchildren. He dies in 1820 at the age of 85. Boone’s trace, at mm 285.1, is where it is said Boone crossed the Blue Ridge. We turn around, and head southwest again. MM 289.8 is the Yadkin Valley overlook, elevation 3830. Yadkin Valley was the home to Boone’s family.

The section from mm 292 to mm 380 is called Grandfather and Black Mountains.

We stopped at mm 294. This is Flat Top Manor, the summer mansion home of Moses H. Cone. He purchased 3800 acres, near Blowing Rock, NC during the 1890’s and early 1900’s. His mammoth textile mills produced high quality denim. He died in 1908, only a few years after completing his mansion. The 23 room mansion was filled with art and objects from Asia. Most of the furnishings and lumber were hauled by oxen from Lenoir, NC. The Cones were almost self-sufficient, with their own dairy, vegetable gardens, carbide gas plant, and local employees. The mansion, open Thursday through Sunday, was closed when we were there on a Wednesday ☹️. Otherwise, it is a visitor center, with craft exhibitions and demonstrations. we did wander around the closed mansion, peered into a couple of windows, admired his view from the sweeping front porch, and walked down to the carriage house (where the public bathrooms we’re located).

Moses Cone Mansion

After leaving Flat Top Manor, we pass the Sims Creek overlook. A man named Hamp Sims lived nearby. He slept in a coffin and enjoyed scaring visitors who stopped by. We stopped at a viewing spot for Calloway Peak, the highest point on Grandfather Mountain, 5,964 feet, otherwise known as Grandfather’s nose. We were not able to picture a “nose”. We drove on the Linn Cove Viaduct.

I have to confess that this is a stock photo from the internet, because we couldn’t find a place to stop. The Linn Cove Viaduct is 1,243 feet long and marked the official completion of the parkway. It was the missing link, left unfinished for 20 years because of easement problems and environmental issues. Hugh Morton, owner of a Grandfather Mountain, refused access because the earlier proposals would have caused severe damage to the rugged and rocky Linn Cove area of Grandfather Mountain. The compromise was an elevated roadway, as S-curve skirting the perimeter of the mountain. The design required connecting 153 precast sections that were built off the mountain and matched to fit the preceding section. The advanced construction technology eliminated the need for blasting, an access road, and heavy machinery.

We stopped at the Grandfather Mountain Overlook. Grandfather Mountain is the highest mountain in the Blue Ridge, elevation 5,939 (or 5,964 according to our guidebook). It’s name is from the jagged peaks that create a profile of an old man (if you have a good imagination). Grandfather Mountain is one of the oldest mountains in the world.

Grandfather Mountain

At mm 316.4, we stop at Linville Falls. Finally, we are going to do a little hike. Linville Falls is one of the most famous waterfalls in the Blue Ridge.

Linville Falls
Linville Falls Chimney View

Dave had researched another winery, the Linville Falls Winery. So after our little hike, we exited the parkway at mm 317 and after a little effort, we found the winery. The directions on the website were not very good, so we turned the wrong direction. After driving around awhile, we stopped and asked for directions. The location was actually very close to the parkway, we just should have turned right instead of left. It is a very pleasant location with tables outside, offering nice views. The only negative was they had two fire pits and we did not like the smell of the smoke. We found a table with minimal smoke heading towards us. Because of coronavirus, they are not doing “tastings”, but offer “flights” of four 2oz pours for $12, and you get to keep the glass as a souvenir. Dave and I shared the “flight” and purchased some cheese and crackers to cleanse our palates which turned out to be lunch. The wines we chose for our flight were: Brandy Aged Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Barn Blend, and Petit Verdot. Since I was driving, I did not want anymore wine, but Dave had a glass of one of the wines we tasted, Petit Verdot, and the waiter kindly brought me a bottle of water. Dave really liked the Petit Verdot, so we bought a bottle. As we went to leave, Dave inquired whether the glass his wine came in was ours to keep, too. The waiter said “no, but what am I going to do if I come out after you leave and the glass is gone?”. Of course, I took that as meaning it was ok to take the 2nd glass. Dave felt guilty and left him a nice tip. After our wine stop, we got back on the parkway and continued.

There are several references to the Revolutionary War and Civil War in our guide, especially from this point forward.

We stopped at Gillespie Gap, on the Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail. In 1780, British Major Patrick Ferguson sent word to American Colonel Isaac Shelby that if the rebellion did not cease, the British Army would march over the mountains and “hand their leaders, and lay waste to the country with fire and sword”. American Colonel had contacted fellow Revolutionary leaders and rallied their forces to go on the offensive against the British. Shelby and fellow Revolutionary leader Jon Sevier led a group of 1,100 soldiers through Gillespie Gap en route to face British Major Ferguson, meeting at Kings Mountain, SC, where they won a crucial victory. Major Ferguson was killed. The important victory by the group, remembered as the Overmountain Men for their march to the battle, was one of a series of events leading to the British surrender at Yorktown.

There are 26 tunnels on the parkway in North Carolina, and we are at the Little Switzerland Tunnel which is the northernmost tunnel in NC.

We stop to read about groundhogs, frequently known as woodchucks or “whistle pigs”, which are the parkways most frequently seen animal – but we don’t see any. At mm 342.2, we read about the Black Mountains, the highest range in the East with an average elevation of 6,000 feet. We stopped at the Mt. Mitchell Overlook which is the highest mountain in the east at 6,684 feet. My. Mitchell is part of the Black Mountain range.

At mm 361.2, we get a view of Glassmine Falls. The 800 foot falls are so named because at the base of the falls is an old mica mine. Mica is also known as isinglass, and by the locals as glass.

At mm 370.3, we entered the Ashville Watershed. The watershed is one of the largest city owned watersheds in the a United States. This watershed supplies 30 million gallons of water daily and protects one of the few remaining spruce-fir forests in the area.

A long, productive day, but we end the day in Ashville at a Hampton where we’ve stayed before, and dinner at a Carrabbas’s where we’ve eaten before.

Thursday, October 1, 2020. MM 380 to 390 is Ashville and vicinity. We have been to Ashville and visited the Biltmore estate previously. Getting back on the parkway, we stop at the Parkways newest visitor center. We had hoped to see the film shown here, “The Blue Ridge Parkway -America’s Favorite Journey”, but the film is not being shown because of coronavirus. There are some large scale photos and exhibits, but they are roped off to keep people from touching anything. Moving on….

MM 390 to 469 is High Mountain Wilderness Views. This last section boasts the highest peaks on the parkway. We drive at elevations above 5,000 feet. This section has several tunnels, as well. According to our guide, there are black bears in the Blue Ridge. This doesn’t surprise me because we saw a black bear last year. According to our guidebook, black bears do not hibernate. They sleep a good deal in the winter, but their metabolism remains normal. In true hibernation, body temperature drops significantly and heart rate slows to one or two beats per minute.

We enter the Pisgah range, and stop to check out the Mount Pisgah Inn. The complex is along the parkway and includes rooms with balconies and private porches, a restaurant, a gift shop, camp store and restrooms.

Our next stop is at Cherry Cove at mm 425.7. In September, monarch butterflies fly through this narrow gap as they journey toward Mexico. Other butterflies can’t attempt such distances, but monarchs are more like migratory birds, able to fly several thousand miles. We see people on lawn chairs, watching to see the butterflies, even though it is October.

Wolf Mountain Overlook at 424.8 looks at the last stronghold of wolf in the area. The last remaining wolves were shot by farmers in the early 1900’s. Today, wolves have been reintroduced in Great Smokey Mountain National Park.

The highest point on the parkway is Richland Balsam Overlook. We had a little picnic lunch here. We had purchased sandwiches from the Mount Pisgah Inn camp store, and ate them looking out toward Richland Mountain, elevation 6,410.

We briefly drove through the Waterrock Knob Overlook, but remembered stopping there last year. There were many cars here, so we would not have stopped because there were too many people for us to social distance. On the way up to the Overlook is a plaque honoring engineer R. Getty Browning, who played an important part in the present day location of the parkway through NC.

As we traveled this section today, and approach Cherokee, NC., there were references in our guidebook of the Cherokee Indians. Apparently the Cherokee sided with the British during the Revolutionary War, and with the Confederates during the Civil War. At mm 458.9, the Cherokee a Reservation can be traced to a band of Cherokee who took refuge in the Smokies when their tribe was forcibly removed to Oklahoma.

A pretty long view

I have not attached many long view photos, because they just don’t capture the beauty.

We end the day at the end of the parkway, mm 469.1, and drive 2 miles to Cherokee. Cherokee is interesting, but not particularly pretty. There are casinos, which is the only place you can get alcohol as Cherokee is dry. Therefore, no chain restaurants, only Mom & Pop places that serve meals, but no adult beverages. And, lots of restaurants did not make it with the shut down due to the coronavirus. We did not want to go to the casino just to eat, besides the fact it was valet parking or pay to self park. So we got fried chicken from a grocery store for dinner.

Friday, October 2, 2020. We are about 90 minutes away from the “Tail of the Dragon”, on US 129. Deals Gap is a mountain pass along the NC-TN state line, bordering the Great Smokey Mountains National Park. Just south of the gap is an unincorporated community that shares the same name, located at the intersection of US 129 and NC 28. The area is popular with sports car and motorcycle enthusiasts who cross the gap into TN to drive along “ The Dragon”, famous for its 318 curves in 11 miles. Before we get to Deals Gap, we saw a line of convertibles heading south that must have been part of a club, and a bunch of Porsche’s, also probably part of a club, assuming they drove the “Tail of the Dragon” early. We got to what I consider the southern starting point about 11:00AM, and perused the store. There is a huge statue of a dragon outside, with parts of vehicles attached that had wrecked on the 11 mile road. There are lots of motorcycles here, and several sports cars. But more motorcycles.

Dave with the Dragon

We headed out, and fortunately there was no one close behind me and no one too close in front of me. I was following a car, but he was moving pretty good, so not an issue. The curves are curvy, but banked pretty good. At one point Dave saw a policeman on a motorcycle on one of the curves. It was a fun drive and I’m glad we did it. While this stretch of road is famous for its curves, there are lots of curvy roads in North Carolina. Last year, the road driving to Chimney Rock was pretty curvy!

Time to head home! Just to prove that I do let Dave drive my car:

We arrived home Saturday evening about 6:30PM.